Mike Fortes slave cylinder setup

[Malibu46pt]

Can someone better explain the setup process

As written in instructions:

You must push the slave piston rearward to bottom of cylinder so piston returns to the base of the stroke.
Push rod will need to be cut to fit
Once cut use threaded adjuster to set 3/16 clearance spacing

[toadster]

wow you got instructions? I never got any instructions from Forte for anything... hmm


setup the clutch arm with the pivot joint, and mount the slave onto the transmission - use spacers to get it as straight of a push as possible

with the assembly together you'll notice that the rod is too long, we initially trimmed off too much - which ended up not being a huge deal
If you cut the slave push rod too short, you can easily make another by cutting the head off a 5/16"-24 bolt, we used a 4" bolt which was about $1.39 at the local ACE

if I can share things, maybe it's what NOT to do - don't cut off this much LOL

182681

you want the pushrod to be long enough without bottoming out on the cup/piston - you want at little play so the clutch arm isn't in tension when at rest, meaning you aren't placing any force on the clutch (e.g. riding the clutch)

I think we took off maybe 3/16ths of an inch which worked out in our situation, but every setup may have it's nuances
you can adjust play over time with the threaded section :)

[Malibu46pt]

Your instructions are basically what I did. The problem I am having is that I have 1 inch travel on the slave cylinder but the clutch is still engaged.

[edwardb]

Your instructions are basically what I did. The problem I am having is that I have 1 inch travel on the slave cylinder but the clutch is still engaged.

Something else is wrong then. That's nearly the max the slave cylinder is rated for and is plenty to disengage the clutch in my experience. Where do you have the slave attached to the clutch arm? A picture would be good. Maybe too far out? Maybe the clutch is frozen? That happens sometimes if it's been sitting for a long time. Also maybe the pivot at the end of the clutch arm isn't the right height. What bell housing and is the pivot adjustable?

[Malibu46pt]

I did bleed the line. Could there still be air in the line. Would air cause this

[edwardb]

I did bleed the line. Could there still be air in the line. Would air cause this

Not likely if you're getting the necessary 1 inch travel at the slave.

[Malibu46pt]

182682182683

Photos of slave cylinder in and out

[Railroad]

I cannot see the bleeder valve on your slave cylinder. If it is not on the top, back of the cylinder, you will need to orient it so it is the highest point while you bleed it.
If that is not the issue, you may have the wrong height pivot bolt/ball under the inside end of the clutch fork.
I got some bad info on which to use and had to pull the trans/bellhousing and swap the pivot bolt.

[Malibu46pt]

Finally got the clutch to release. Adjusted the slave cylinder to have about 1/4 inch preload on the clutch fork. This is contrary to the instructions that say to not have any preload. Should I be concerned?
Also has anyone installed a stop for the clutch pedal when using the hydraulic clutch.

[Railroad]

The preload may keep the throw out bearing spinning all the time. Some say the new bearings can take this. It was not the case in earlier times.
It sounds like you need a little more travel on the push rod.
Have you talked to Mike? He's pretty good at dealing with issues.

[phileas_fogg]

I made a clutch stop for the hydraulic clutch so that the back of the clutch pedal arm is stopped by a 1/2" bolt. I used a piece of 16 gauge steel to reinforce the interior side of the back foot box wall, with the upper edge of the steel aligned with the horizontal crease in the aluminum, and securing it to the aluminum with a generous dollop of JB Weld & some rivets. After installing the carpet & making a hole for the through-bolt, I used two 1/2”-13 x 3/4” bolts with a 3/4” coupler to make the stop (you can see the hole for my clutch stop just to the right of the pedal in the second picture below). I used two SAE washers (on the outside of the foot box panel and on the inside next to the backing plate), and then two USS washers under the inside bolt to set the stop's height where I wanted it.


John

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182724&d=1681054700

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182725&d=1681054700

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182726&d=1681054700

[Railroad]

I used the threaded leg off a washing machine, refrig, or bed frame. It has a flat head with a rubber cap. Just add a couple of washers, nuts and adjust.

[edwardb]

Finally got the clutch to release. Adjusted the slave cylinder to have about 1/4 inch preload on the clutch fork. This is contrary to the instructions that say to not have any preload. Should I be concerned?
Also has anyone installed a stop for the clutch pedal when using the hydraulic clutch.

That's good your clutch is functional. But putting that much preload isn't normal and will prematurely wear out the throw-out bearing. It will get even tighter as the clutch wears from use. Doesn't do your clutch any favors either. That's why the instructions say to adjust with a certain amount of looseness. So, yes, you should be concerned. The CNC slave cylinder that used to be provided before they went out of busines had a rated throw of 1-1/16". If you drove it much more than that, the piston would pop out the front. Not good. I assume the replacement slave is similar and the amount of throw you're showing appears similar. Which is enough to make the clutch work in my experience. Based on the pictures you posted, the location of your pushrod attachment to the clutch arm looks OK. That leaves, at least in my experience, the pivot point on the other end of the clutch arm (inside the bell housing) to be suspect. If not the proper height, can affect the geometry and keep things from working properly. Good idea to talk to Mike. He may have some other suggestions. Or confirm what has been suggested.

Yes, it’s common to install a clutch stop. Prevents overdriving the slave cylinder. Kind of a moot point for your installation at this point.