Colorado Cobra Build - Building a feemer maybe.

[Mike.Bray]

Little bit of rework today. I installed the Breeze Accelerator pedal a few weeks ago. It’s a nice looking part but it scares me a little bit. I was demonstrating it to a friend and it slipped off the mount the other day. I cranked the set screws pretty good when I installed it but I think the mount isn’t very strong. The mount bent a bit and it looks to be binding on the side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214444&d=1748562331
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214445&d=1748562331

I took it off and called the vendor. Maybe user error but not something I want to mess around with. The accelerator pedal can kill you if it binds…
I put the factory five one on (as modified according to I.E.427 Garage) and it works just fine and feels a lot more solid.

As a design engineer I can tell you that's no good. As others have mentioned the RT bracket was a machined block of aluminum with two set screws. I have it on my car and so far no issues.

[danmas]

As a design engineer I can tell you that's no good. As others have mentioned the RT bracket was a machined block of aluminum with two set screws. I have it on my car and so far no issues.

I hear you Mike and I agree. I didn’t hear back from the vendor which kind of closes things off for me. I think it is dangerous and I don’t like the design. For those of you willing to make it work, I salute you.


Dan

[danmas]

Got the roll bars welded up today. Pretty happy with how they look although there needs to be some cleanup before they get powder coated….

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214485&d=1748731722-
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214486&d=1748731722

Really like these Breeze roll bars.

[Rian_Colorado]

Nice! Who did the welding work? I may need a referral..... lol

[cv2065]

Looking good! They do tend to squeeze together a bit during the welding process. I needed some vice grips to twist the back leg adaptor tube a bit to pull it up.

[Justin]

I was born with tiny feet. 8.5. But I do like a wide shoe. I'll have to see how my regular shoes fit when I get the pedals and footbox done.

[Justin]

Little bit of rework today. I installed the Breeze Accelerator pedal a few weeks ago. It’s a nice looking part but it scares me a little bit. I was demonstrating it to a friend and it slipped off the mount the other day. I cranked the set screws pretty good when I installed it but I think the mount isn’t very strong. The mount bent a bit and it looks to be binding on the side.

I took it off and called the vendor. Maybe user error but not something I want to mess around with. The accelerator pedal can kill you if it binds…
I put the factory five one on (as modified according to I.E.427 Garage) and it works just fine and feels a lot more solid.

Dimple the ¾" tube with a drill and use a lock nut like on the steering u-joint.

[danmas]

I was privileged to visit a local builder today and envy his build. He also printed a couple of turn signal inserts for me. My daughter got to sit in his car and make fast car noises.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214543&d=1748915987

Not much work on the build today as I am reconfiguring the shop for various reasons.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214544&d=1748916187

[danmas]

For those of you considering a chin spoiler for the car, I think it looks sick….

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214756&d=1749340385

I will want mine to look completely integrated so the fasteners will have to be relatively hidden…

[cv2065]

For those of you considering a chin spoiler for the car, I think it looks sick….

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214756&d=1749340385

I will want mine to look completely integrated so the fasteners will have to be relatively hidden…

I just got mine too! It’s going to look sweet! Thanks again to Jessie for paving the way!

[ydousurf]

Dan, the front spoiler looks killer! I’m also planning to put one on my car. Thinking of either getting one in carbon fiber, or wrapping one, or perhaps even making my own in Fiberglass/CF. Anyway, I plan to make mine removable since the car sits so low, Integrating it could cause issues if you hit it on speed bumps or other dips. Etc… They look awesome fully blended, but I sure wouldn’t want it to damage the body. Anyway, carry-on, car is looking awesome.

Doug

[danmas]

I just got mine too! It’s going to look sweet! Thanks again to Jessie for paving the way!

Jesse has influenced an entire generation of builders with his work. It’s pretty iconic really…

[Blitzboy54]

I really appreciate the sentiment, but all I am doing is climbing up on the shoulders of all the giants that came first.

[danmas]

I hear you but honestly they have been phenomenal. I purchased them two years ago (yes before I had the kit). Not many vendors would say two years after you purchased their kit that they would make you whole. Something got messed up in their supply chain. They are making it right and I appreciate that.
Gas-N performance update.

Whelp I guess it’s probably time to update folks. Frankly I am losing confidence in these guys. Initially the response was good. That was 6 weeks ago. I sent back the wrong parts and it’s been a journey ever since. I have called a half dozen times, emailed about the same number of times and even used their text feature. The few times I have heard back I get a very pleasant conversation and a promise to ship out and that day comes and goes. Last I heard the product was to be shipped out last Friday. It’s been a week and three emails / calls and no tracking information. I’m not unhappy that it’s taking a long time. I’m unhappy that communication is terrible and the promises don’t line up to the results.

I’m unhappy but life is pretty short. Anyone have some pull with the original owner? I’m guessing they have changed hands. Alternatively anyone know where I can source a passenger side only header and two collectors?

[cv2065]

I just spoke to Georgie the other day. He did say that he was stepping away to retire but was very helpful with my question. Maybe reach out to him?

[danmas]

Pm me his number or a direct email? The other contact info goes to his staff or the new company?

[cv2065]

PM’d you

[danmas]

Got back from France/Germany last night. Very fun to see all the racing nuts and fabulous cars at Le Mans. Will go again I am sure. Today went into the shop to get back in the saddle for the build. I finished up the lower radiator hose. I’m not wild about the way it touches the frame but I see that there are people who recommend attaching it to the frame. Thoughts?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215304&d=1750457490
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215305&d=1750457490

I also built a center console using Jesse’s dimensions. I think it’s going to work out really well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215306&d=1750457490
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215307&d=1750457490

[cv2065]

Breeze makes a bracket for the lower radiator tube that I used but might fit yours as well. Just ask Mark. I would definitely secure it.

[danmas]

Also got the Everson nose cone today. Will make it black and test fit it…
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215308&d=1750458654

[Blitzboy54]

Looks great. I test fit the FFR aluminum and it doesn’t fit right. I’m going to reach out to Mike and go with his scoop.

[gbranham]

I have the Breeze lower radiator tube support. I couldn't use it because of the way I had to route it around my power steering cooler. Happy to send it to ya. My treat. Lemme know.

Greg

[danmas]

Greg,

Super kind of you. I will take it, gratefully. Dan

[danmas]

Hilarious. I think that’s the word I’m looking for. Maybe?

I finally finally got the parts shipment today and I’m giddy as a kid on the first day of summer break. With the header in place on the passenger side I can finish up the wiring and hang my pipes and I’m right around the corner from first start.

I really like the look of the shiny black driver side header.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215354&d=1750538942

Of course I’m running matte black and I need the passenger side header.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215353&d=1750538942

The contrast has a nice Frankenstein home build vibe going for it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215352&d=1750538942

I’m going to go do something else for a while.

Dan

[danmas]

I installed the shifter from factory five just to get a sense of things. I am not a fan of the bent forward leaning shifter but it’s comfy. I also test fit some ideas of where to put the start button and so forth. Probably on the trans tunnel. But still thinking it through. With the console I have a ton of new real estate for switches and so forth. Still working it out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215357&d=1750546118

[Derald Rice]

I've had that same concern with the breeze pedal. I plan on using the set screws to get it set up and in the right position and then either tapping into the 3/4 tube or riveting straight to it



Why not use the set screw hole in the bracket as a pilot and then drill through the lower part of the bracket, the tube,
and then the upper part of the bracket........And then put a single bolt through it all with a nut on the opposite end ??

The bracket would then be captured onto the tube and the bolt would hold it all together with compression.

[danmas]

Why not use the set screw hole in the bracket as a pilot and then drill through the lower part of the bracket, the tube,
and then the upper part of the bracket........And then put a single bolt through it all with a nut on the opposite end ??

The bracket would then be captured onto the tube and the bolt would hold it all together with compression.
Absolutely can work. A few folks have suggested that. My concern is that the metal is fairly soft. It started binding, probably because I over torqued the set screw and bent the bracket. I would prefer a steel bracket with a bolt that comes in from the side. I think this would help a lot with the lateral force. I may play with it, but for now I have set it aside.

Dan

[gbranham]

Got your PM, Dan. I'll get your Breeze part out early next week.

[danmas]

Yesterday it was 112 degrees in my car outside the shop. We are in the midst of a heatwave and I didn’t really want to spend a whole lot of time in that heat so I went in early. First thing was making a bracket for the expansion tank. It’s feels good to use some of the things I have learned. When I first started I spent a day looking for a bracket for my reservoirs. I finally just made one from some aluminum. A couple of times. Now I made one in about an hour and it came out pretty decent. I say this not to toot my horn but to encourage those builders like me that really wanted to build a car but didn’t know much about fabrication. It can be done. I will never have some of the amazing skills that many of the builders here have, but I’m learning and getting better and making stuff and that feels good.

To the bracket. Raw aluminum.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215383&d=1750608249

Harbor freight hydraulic press with a pneumatic air jack and the swag metal finger brake. Works really well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215382&d=1750608249

I scuffed up the aluminum with my angle grinder so it would take the paint and applied three coats of 2000 degree bbq paint. Feels like it came out pretty nice looking. I finished up the radiator system and it’s ready for pressure testing. Will probably change the current radiator cap.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215378&d=1750608167

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215379&d=1750608167

Shamelessly stole the idea for a rock guard and I built it in about an hour. I think it looks pretty good and reasonably functional.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215381&d=1750608249

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215380&d=1750608167

Have a great day!

[gbranham]

You've done a fantastic job, Dan! You should be proud of that project. That's what it's all about. Kudos to you, my friend.

[Blitzboy54]

I have that same coolant overflow tank. I was going to retrofit it into my last car. I sold it instead. The FFR tank isn't big enough or maybe exactly big enough in a moderate climate. I like that you can see the level.

I am double shamelessly stealing your rock guard solution.

What is this place for if not for stealing each other's ideas anyhow.

[danmas]

I did a quick pressure test on my system (just air) and the bottom pipe was leaking pretty impressively. I fixed it and will try again tomorrow. I will also need a tow hook solution given my chin spoiler. It will also need to extend beyond the body in order for me to take the car to track days here in Colorado…

So many things to do…

[danmas]

I have that same coolant overflow tank. I was going to retrofit it into my last car. I sold it instead. The FFR tank isn't big enough or maybe exactly big enough in a moderate climate. I like that you can see the level.

I am double shamelessly stealing your rock guard solution.

What is this place for if not for stealing each other's ideas anyhow.

Here is the original write up…. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47759-CV2065-MKIV-Roadster-Build-Thread-2-Nose-Aluminum&p=582768&viewfull=1#post582768)

[cc2Arider]

Dan,

I really like how your Center console looks! It was difficult for me to figure out a bend strategy and then follow-thru...I ended up placing wooden dowels between the work piece and the brake edge to get the rounded edges. Nice job! :)

Craig C

[danmas]

Dan,

I really like how your Center console looks! It was difficult for me to figure out a bend strategy and then follow-thru...I ended up placing wooden dowels between the work piece and the brake edge to get the rounded edges. Nice job! :)

Craig C

Thanks Craig. I got lucky on that. It’s pretty heavy duty steel and it gave me a really nice bend. I was going to finish it in a carbon fiber wrap… now I am not sure. Maybe a nice leather… I dunno. Making it up as I go along.

[danmas]

Couple of updates:

Supposedly my new header should be here early next week. It won’t match the current one because each ceramic coater does their own thing evidently. So the choice was ship everything back or try and color match here locally. That seems preferable (matching locally). If it doesn’t get close I will wrap it and just be done.

Wiring:
Learned a couple of lessons. I have this massive 6foot snake that doesn’t really fit my engine compartment so I decided to open up the harness and diet out what I can and route things differently. If I do this again I think I would rather do my own wiring as opposed to a harness. The Holley harness is a massive mess of wires that just run everywhere.

That said I’m getting close and it feels weirdly good. I was dreading it and I guess I’m still worried that I won’t get it right but I’m having fun bringing order to the chaos. Some things I have learned for people that haven’t done this a lot:
1. Avoid connections that come apart easy. I put a couple of blade connections on my coil to start. As I was moving wires around the popped off fairly easily. Obviously that means the car would stop. I swapped out for ring connectors and that is much more solid.

2. Get connectors with no heat shrink and add the heat shrink you want. My first kit had weird yellows and greens. I went ahead and got some bare connectors and I’m adding mostly black heat shrink.

3. Don’t be afraid to depin something as opposed to cut and terminate. I cut and terminated some wires off my main harness and the it occurred to me that in a couple years when I am trouble shooting I won’t recall why these wires were cut. Easier if they are just gone.

4. Label the wires at both ends. I ran two sets of power and ground through my conduit and realized if I ever had a problem I wouldn’t know which is which.

5. Avoid electrical tape. It leaves a sticky mess. Get wire harness tape. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Automotive-Adhesive-Protection-Insulation/dp/B09N1M914Z/ref=sr_1_3_pp?crid=35DKL5F668CUT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.VGCRzja3He1bvsZ0zVGoi08cCL1OWzxd0 ZsI9dZOfsD55ciP61jlR1pUmFHczbuvhyxmy42fWGNO5giKOIy SI-gjAR0F977Eq1bkVjlKdyurOQQRsriWgyPFwU11e1HpYVN-ag4IwqwrR9ln_Snh4qbVB2eC9YliJXeLKWyntS7uAJSVhIiyrb YMWA-ijHUnm8EbWzpViDl0DRXIIvmjoSubNO5LH0_7bkWxJ9JWwus.q jb7GPPPEwKnjFwpJ8I01nOt2wYxZuXDZoqJuWhnVSI&dib_tag=se&keywords=Engine%2Bwire%2Bharness%2Btape&qid=1751121442&sprefix=engine%2Bwire%2Bharness%2Btape%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-3&th=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215607&d=1751120319
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215608&d=1751120319
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215609&d=1751120319

[Derald Rice]

I did a quick pressure test on my system (just air) and the bottom pipe was leaking pretty impressively. I fixed it and will try again tomorrow. I will also need a tow hook solution given my chin spoiler. It will also need to extend beyond the body in order for me to take the car to track days here in Colorado…

So many things to do…

When I was tracking, a tow strap attached to the frame and zip,tied to one of the quick jacks was acceptable (and removeable for non track days)

[cv2065]

I've always thought that if you want to discourage someone from a build, show em a 'before' wiring picture. Sometimes even an after. :p

Another alternative to electrical or any kinds of tape is just shrink tubing over the corrugated tubing. Takes a little more time and planning at the wiring junctions, but the end result looks great and you don't have to worry about it ever unraveling or melting. Although sometimes you can't get away from the tape in certain instances.

[danmas]

When I was tracking, a tow strap attached to the frame and zip,tied to one of the quick jacks was acceptable (and removeable for non track days)

This might work great if I didn’t have a chin spoiler and what not. I’m sure the body would show me all kinds of hate if I did the tow strap thing. Currently I’m thinking a tow bar that mounts through one of the quick jack holes. I would glass over the other three. If I can make it look nice I might just leave it there….

[Blitzboy54]

I've always thought that if you want to discourage someone from a build, show em a 'before' wiring picture. Sometimes even an after. :p


I chuckled

[danmas]

I've always thought that if you want to discourage someone from a build, show em a 'before' wiring picture. Sometimes even an after. :p

Another alternative to electrical or any kinds of tape is just shrink tubing over the corrugated tubing.
First, you are totally right about the wiring. Half way through I was wishing I could rewind and….just not. That said, into the breach and all that.
Second, great tip. I have a few bits of heat shrink that are comically large. Until you figure out that you can do exactly what you suggest with that….

[danmas]

Turning chaos back to order!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215686&d=1751234823

And I have my new shifter.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215687&d=1751234823

Making progress….

[cv2065]

Nice progress! Always great to see the seats installed. I have the same MSD box. The nice thing about that one is that the entire harness disconnects from the box in the event that the box fails. There is enough room to turn that box horizontal with the plug facing outboard so you can run all of the wires along the firewall in loom so they are not easily seen. I did the same.

Edit: On second look, looks like you have wiring going to a box there and may not have room.

[danmas]

Wiring is mostly complete in the engine compartment. I don’t think I’m fond of the mess of wiring but it looks marginally better. I may have to build a wall to hide it all. That said, I wired up all the lights, fan and horns today. I need to now do the dash and commit.

I put power steering fluid in the system and will let it sit overnight to see if there are any seepage leaks. Won’t tell me much until she is under pressure but it’s a start. I will fill radiator and transmission tomorrow. I will recheck the brakes and clutch and hopefully install the passenger side header tomorrow. If it comes. It should come.

I think I’m pretty close to first start. No pictures today. Hopefully soon a video. We will see…

[Rian_Colorado]

looking forward to hearing it running!!

[danmas]

Finally got my passenger side header. Evidently it couldn’t have been color matched by a code because they didn’t have the code. The solution was to send my whole kit back or deal with it locally. Given that I no longer had the packing crate stuff and I wasn’t excited about the idea of taking off the driver side header I said just send what the had and I will fix it.

Evidently the ceramic coating for black on these things isn’t all that robust and very few people do it. After searching locally and hitting a few shops I decided to hell with it and I would do it myself. Head nod to Jesse. No ceramic coating. Upol to the rescue.The fix:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215845&d=1751575489

The problem:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215846&d=1751575489

The results:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215850&d=1751575535
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215847&d=1751575489
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215849&d=1751575535
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215848&d=1751575535

Couple of thoughts now that this is mostly complete.

Check the contents of every delivery the day you get it. I was pressed for space and time when I got the original shipment and so I just put it on the shelf. Stupid move.

Take a page out of Jesse’s book. He suggested high temp paint. Simple is better.

Finally. I have worked on dozens of cars. Never in my life have I said “geez I wish that exhaust looked better”. These cars are a little different obviously but in some cases good enough is good enough.

Dan

[cv2065]

Looking good! I saw those shields and was contemplating getting some. Nice unique touch! You are correct, there are not too many people that do ceramic coating as you need an oven that does about 800 degrees. Powder coating is more like 400 degrees. If done right, the ceramic coating is very durable. Also cools the pipes down considerably. There are clears as well to provide a sheen as most finishes are matte or flat.

Glad you got your exhaust rolling!

[Blitzboy54]

Looking good! I saw those shields and was contemplating getting some. Nice unique touch! You are correct, there are not too many people that do ceramic coating as you need an oven that does about 800 degrees. Powder coating is more like 400 degrees. If done right, the ceramic coating is very durable. Also cools the pipes down considerably. There are clears as well to provide a sheen as most finishes are matte or flat.

Glad you got your exhaust rolling!

I like those shields too. I have them on my list. I am very likely to use them.

We are all building the same car now. lol

[danmas]

Looking good! I saw those shields and was contemplating getting some. Nice unique touch! You are correct, there are not too many people that do ceramic coating as you need an oven that does about 800 degrees. Powder coating is more like 400 degrees. If done right, the ceramic coating is very durable. Also cools the pipes down considerably. There are clears as well to provide a sheen as most finishes are matte or flat.

Glad you got your exhaust rolling!
The driver side header and the pipes are ceramic coated. If heat is a problem on passenger side I will wrap both headers…
Dan

[danmas]

I like those shields too. I have them on my list. I am very likely to use them.

We are all building the same car now. lol
Stole the idea from topher when I got a chance to see his ride….

[JMD]

I'm enjoying following the build!

What exhaust shields are those? I don't plan on installing any on mine, but if I did, those are the ones I would want.

[danmas]

I'm enjoying following the build!

What exhaust shields are those? I don't plan on installing any on mine, but if I did, those are the ones I would want.

PM sent. Not a supporting vendor so I won’t post the link.

Dan

[danmas]

Cleaning up so more wiring today and a few questions for the experts. I have a terminator x and it is powering the fuel pump through a relay off the Ron Francis harness and fuse box. I have three extraneous wires I believe.

The gray and green speed sensor wire that is in the rear harness and pops out at the transmission. Theses are also in the main harness. I think I can depin these and just toss them. I will be running my Speedo off a gps speedometer.

I also have a light blue efi crank wire that I think is unneeded in the terminator x. I think I can just cut and terminate this. Feedback?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216091&d=1752039035

[weendoggy]

Couple of updates:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215609&d=1751120319

Good luck with that Dual Sync (stink) distributor. Maybe yours won't fail.

[danmas]

Yeah I read through your log. Fingers crossed…

[gbranham]

I did what you want to do here...didn't use any of the RF wiring that terminates at the tranny (GPS speedo), and didn't use the blue crank wire. I just put some heat shrink over the bare end and tucked it away.

Greg

[Blitzboy54]

Yeah I read through your log. Fingers crossed…

IF it makes you feel any better I used the dual sync on my last build and it worked fine. Still running

[danmas]

Checking to make sure this is OK: The MSD 6AL ignition control has a red ignition wire. I should be able to connect this directly to the ignition and not worry about a fuse or relay or anything along those lines, true?

[gbranham]

Checking to make sure this is OK: The MSD 6AL ignition control has a red ignition wire. I should be able to connect this directly to the ignition and not worry about a fuse or relay or anything along those lines, true?

True

[Mike.Bray]

Good luck with that Dual Sync (stink) distributor. Maybe yours won't fail.

I have a Holley Dual Sync but with the Fast Sportsman it's not needed, I got it so if or when I go to a Terminator I can do sequential port injection with my stacks. I've actually got everything ready to swap out but the car's been running so good with the last tune I did with the Fast I'm delaying the changeover. But so far my Dual Sync has been flawless.

To point though, if you're not doing sequential port injection you don't need a dual sync.

[danmas]

Getting closer. I filled the transmission today. So much easier with no sheet metal in the transmission tunnel.
Tightened up a few wires.
Spent an hour setting up my new bigass fan swamp cooler.
Wandered around the shop looking for excuses to not do the next step.
Sat my self down and gave my self a pep talk.

Hooked up the power…

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216180&d=1752197190
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216179&d=1752197190

No smoke!!!!

The red led means I need to train the throttle position sensor…. So I did that!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216178&d=1752197190

And it’s now green

I then gave the key another half turn to the right… nothing. Because the clutch safety switch works!
So I clamped the clutch down and tried again…. No gas in the car yet… just checking to see if she will turn over…



https://youtu.be/q1xNo-2UcPE

A big thank you to everyone on the forum that helped me through this. I know I was a hand wringing nervous chump but you were all patient and gracious and I’m grateful.

Now to tidy things up and soon first start.

Dan

[gbranham]

Im so proud of you, and super excited for you, Dan! That is indeed a big milestone when it makes its own noises. You're getting close to the really nervous day...first start. That always makes me so nervous, and I don't know why, because its always been drama free for me. I'm confident it'll be the same for you. You've learned so much in the past year or two. Its awesome to see this kind of growth in our brothers here on the forum. Great job!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks like you're ready to light the fire Dan!

Jeff

[gbranham]

BTW, I didn't hear your fuel pump cycle...did it? If not, don't forget to set your fuel inertia cutoff switch. A common whoops at first (no) start.

Greg

[danmas]

BTW, I didn't hear your fuel pump cycle...did it? If not, don't forget to set your fuel inertia cutoff switch. A common whoops at first (no) start.

Greg

Greg,

Last night I didn’t hear the pump cycle and so I went and grabbed the volt meter. No joy but I was tired and figured that was a tomorrow problem. I will run over to the shop and check my inertia switch… hee. Thanks Greg, to the rescue as always! The other thing that isn’t working are the sensors (oil, temp etc). I think that is because I have to set them up in the terminator but I am not there yet.

More soon…

[danmas]

Last night I was pretty wired (see what I did there?) and couldn’t sleep much. Partly because I saw meaningful progress on the car and partly because I was registered for my first ever track days. Here in Colorado we have the High Plains Raceway. I figured I should try it in a car I knew pretty well before I tried it in a roadster. What a total blast! My middle daughter came with me and we both enjoyed it a lot. However it is a bit nerve racking for a newbie. I was part of the slow group I parked my ego at the door. I had two goals: come home safe and damage free and learn how to track a car. It wasn’t my first time. I drove a Ferrari in Vegas for a couple laps. But that was for a bunch of us tech execs and we had instructors and he had one foot ready to mash the throttle or brake and one hand ready to grab the wheel. So pretty tame…

So anyway I took my Audi s6 down (stage 1 tuned) and fired it up. The car is about 4500 lbs and it has a v8 twin turbo at about 525 HP. So roughly the same amount as my roadster but twice as heavy. First time I have legally gone over 120MPH. I did five laps my first time out. Took a break and did 4 laps. Something odd happened…. The brakes started getting kind of squishy…

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216233&d=1752273700

I popped the hood to help it cool down a bit and noticed that the brakes were super hot! Holy smokes… I also need to change out the brake fluid.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216234&d=1752273700

Took it out for three more laps and it was time to call it a day. For folks in Colorado I highly recommend a day at the track. Everyone there was super nice. Saw some fun cars (no roadsters) including a really tricked out el Camino running an ls4. Builders are fun people. The owner was lying on his back telling me about his car as he was relocating his oil cooler to try and maximize cooling….

Anyway fun day at the track but exhausting and exhilarating.

Dan

[gbranham]

Congrats, Dan! I'm jealous. I've never driven any car on a track.

[F500guy]

First upgrade before you hit the track is brake juice and pads $

Then you can go 10 minutes with out CrA**** your pants because the breaks are squishy or hard as rocks and don't arrest any momentum

Then you will want some new tires for better grip, cornering and braking. $$$

Then you will want to beat the last time out, so pick your next upgrade $$$$

You see where that leads, as bad as crack sometimes...:p

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've never driven any car on a track.

It's fun. And addictive. And costly. As Richard Oben told me many years ago "You'll know you're ready when you get comfortable lighting hundred bills on fire." ;)

Jeff

[gbranham]

It's fun. And addictive. And costly. As Richard Oben told me many years ago "You'll know you're ready when you get comfortable lighting hundred bills on fire." ;)

Jeff

I've been to his home several times, and he's told me the same thing. Hah!

Greg

[danmas]

Hey Greg,

You didn’t hear my fuel pump yesterday because the terminator x has a 5 second prime cycle and then it shuts off until it senses the engine cranking. I disconnected it yesterday to check the power and it wasn’t there. That said, I traced all the wires, checked the fuse and the relay and everything looked fine. So hooked up the volt meter again and power cycled the car, 5 seconds of 13v. Then plugged into the tank and got a 5 second pump sound. Think I’m good on that front. I dropped dyno tune into the ecu, flashed the firmware today.

I think I’m about ready for first start.

I need to finish configuration on gauges so I can see oil pressure, fuel pressure and coolant temp. Then I think I’m ready…

(Edit to add I need this part: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/gauges_and_displays/analog_style_efi_gauges/parts/554-130)

Almost there…

[gbranham]

So close!

[Blitzboy54]

I’ve done dozens of track days but only on a motorcycle. It’s a similar deal, ripping through tires and brakes. The most fun I’ve ever had. I highly recommend it. It makes you a better driver by allowing you to fully explore what the machine and you are capable of.

It addictive.

[cv2065]

Ready to roll! Remember to take a video. ;)

[danmas]

Tried first start today. Close but not quite there. I expect it has something to do with the tune or … well honestly I have no idea. Anyone have some suggestions? Getting fuel. Fuel pressure is good. It catches, runs for a revolution or two and then dies. Could use some advice….


https://youtu.be/p45Dz2yYaVE

I am goosing the accelerator to try and keep it alive which is why you hear the rpm up and down. It won't idle...

I ran out of time to setup logging but I will do that next…

[cv2065]

Can’t help too much on the EFI but is your MSD box giving you any blips of issue? Different flashing patterns can give you clues as to what the issue might be. When I hooked up my stereo lead to the battery I missed the MSD positive lead on the battery terminal and of course had a starting issue. I saw the MSD box flashing and it led me to the issue. You can also test spark and trigger.

[danmas]

Maybe. I was on a short leash today and didnt have a lot of time. So I will look at that tomorrow or Friday (I hope).

[gbranham]

Any unused vacuum ports uncapped? Spark plugs routed correctly for your firing order, which I assume is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Are you sure you have your distributor clocked properly, meaning you set initial base timing properly and locked it in within the Terminator software? What does the gauge on your pressure regulator say when you cycle the key on and the pump runs briefly? My bet is base timing is off a smidge.

[danmas]

Any unused vacuum ports uncapped? Spark plugs routed correctly for your firing order, which I assume is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Are you sure you have your distributor clocked properly, meaning you set initial base timing properly and locked it in within the Terminator software? What does the gauge on your pressure regulator say when you cycle the key on and the pump runs briefly? My bet is base timing is off a smidge.

Timing is off a smudge. Will look at that tomorrow. That said.....

[i.e.427]

Check to make sure your fuel lines into the FPR are not reversed. Fuel feeds in directly to the fuel rails and out the FPR back to the tank. Just a hunch......

Frank

[danmas]

Tune was entirely wrong. I think my engine tuner sent me the wrong tune, but, I have sort of fixed it. I need to look at timing, it feels off and it runs rough. That said, its a good day.
Thanks to all that helped me along the way.


https://youtu.be/uV1uELJq7U8

Datalog:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216461&d=1752731715

Fuel pressure average is a touch low and it drops at odd times until it doesn't.

I can adjust the fuel regulator but its holding steady at about 41 which is 2 PSI too high. Should I tune that down or is that in the margin of it doesn't really matter? I don't quite get the drop offs...

Map is reading 10 kPa which is wrong given that my target is 95 to 100. I have the wrong map sensor on the ECU. There is one that connects to a sensor on the engine and there is one that uses the internal 1 bar. I had the wrong one in the tune. Made the fix and will try it out tomorrow.

More to do.

[Blitzboy54]

It's ALIVE!!!

Sounds great despite needing some attention.

[gbranham]

That is AWESOME, Dan!! I'm so happy for you. I know this is a huge milestone for you, and the sense of accomplishment must be off the charts. You've come a long way, brother, and I'm so proud to see you bring it to life. Shoot me a PM if you want some help walking through setting your timing with your soon-to-be-acquired timing light; we can jump on a call and I'll walk you through it.

Congrats!

Greg

[weendoggy]

You need to adjust those sensor scales to suit your actual requirements. They won't change the tune, just how you decipher it. If you have vacuum line to the fuel regulator, it will drop when running. If you have the 3.5LCD screen or other Holley dash, you can read the FP if you have a transducer connected.

[danmas]

That is AWESOME, Dan!! I'm so happy for you. I know this is a huge milestone for you, and the sense of accomplishment must be off the charts. You've come a long way, brother, and I'm so proud to see you bring it to life. Shoot me a PM if you want some help walking through setting your timing with your soon-to-be-acquired timing light; we can jump on a call and I'll walk you through it.

Congrats!

Greg
Greg,
‘Thanks. I am in Chicago this weekend and won’t get my hands on the car until early next week. I did end up buying timing light and it’s probably way over the top. That said, it’s supposedly a good one. I will watch a you tube video or two this weekend. Shoot me your number and I will give you a jingle. I am really grateful to the forum and in particular people like you and Frank and Jesse and Rich and Mike and Chad, Sir Jeff, and others that go out of your way to teach us how to do this stuff. Thank you for being such a positive and encouraging voice and making us feel welcome. It goes a long way.

Dan

[gbranham]

Sent!

[danmas]

Hey everyone,

So I watched a video or two on timing and figured it out (reading, not setting but that seems fairly straightforward as well). Turns out that the initial set in the ecu was off by about 6 degrees. I misread the index mark. But timing on the ecu now is with-in about 1/2 degree of the engine, so pretty close. My timing light tells me that it’s about 28 degrees and the ECU says 27.4 or so. Runs much nicer now.

So 28 degrees which may or may not be high. I don’t know so I have contacted the engine builder to get my cam specs and initial timing recommendations. Yes, it would have been good to know that first but I sort of went into this blind. Hard to know what you need to know if you don’t even know what questions to ask. I am starting to know the right questions. For those of you, like me, that are just learning this, the cam shaft determines the initial timing. There is a timing map file in the ecu which will advance the timing at higher RPM from base. So you need to know your cam shaft specs to set initial timing. Although I have read that if you don’t know it is fine to start at about 10 degrees. Perhaps someone that knows what they are talking about can help correct or refine that. Anyway, it idles ok and comes up to temp and the fan blows and it’s good enough for right now.

Have some coolant weeping from some of the engine bungs. I will back them out and put some pipe sealant on the threads. I drove it around the parking lot just a tiny bit and it looks good. I was by myself so no video this time, but I’m in go cart stage I suppose.

Engine at idle:
https://youtube.com/shorts/Jz11lidltTw?feature=share

[gbranham]

Way to go, Dan! That's a great milestone! Base timing, I suspect, should be somewhere around 12 degrees.

Greg

[cc2Arider]

Tune was entirely wrong. I think my engine tuner sent me the wrong tune, but, I have sort of fixed it. I need to look at timing, it feels off and it runs rough. That said, its a good day.
Thanks to all that helped me along the way.


https://youtu.be/uV1uELJq7U8

Datalog:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216461&d=1752731715

Fuel pressure average is a touch low and it drops at odd times until it doesn't.

I can adjust the fuel regulator but its holding steady at about 41 which is 2 PSI too high. Should I tune that down or is that in the margin of it doesn't really matter? I don't quite get the drop offs...

Map is reading 10 kPa which is wrong given that my target is 95 to 100. I have the wrong map sensor on the ECU. There is one that connects to a sensor on the engine and there is one that uses the internal 1 bar. I had the wrong one in the tune. Made the fix and will try it out tomorrow.

More to do.

Awesome Dan! I'm very happy for you :)

Nice milestone -- I hope to replicate your success later this Summer...

Craig C

[danmas]

A side note to my post today. As I said, I took it around the parking lot. Very low speed, hardly any throttle, just to see if I got engine and transmission and bell housing and drive shaft approximately correct. I was pretty shocked at the amount of dirt, gravel and junk that ending up bouncing off me, my pipes and the front seats. Admittedly I don’t have much of the aluminum on the car, but it was a pretty impressive amount of debris. So, be careful, wear glasses and be prepared to vacuum a bunch of cruft out….

Dan

[gbranham]

My interior and trunk get absolutely inundated with gravel and sand. I also don't have any of the aluminum bits in place that seal the body, nor the wheel well splash panels. Its nuts.

[tnt_motorsports]

It's fun. And addictive. And costly. As Richard Oben told me many years ago "You'll know you're ready when you get comfortable lighting hundred bills on fire." ;)

Jeff




I was once told by an old friend...

"Do you know how to get $1M? Take $2M and go racing!"

[Blitzboy54]

Since I plan to register and drive it over the fall I am putting mine in. Will drill them out before it goes to paint.

[Mike.Bray]

I have a 393W with stack EFI, if it helps here is my base spark table.

216599

[TrackDay17]

Such a beautiful engine and sound ! In my opinion nothing beats the looks of that stack injection under the hood.
I may be biased because my dad was a sprint car racer so I love the looks of a fuel injected small block.

[danmas]

I have a 393W with stack EFI, if it helps here is my base spark table.

216599

So I talked to the engine builder today and he told me a few things. Checking timing while hooked to the computer isn't base timing its base timing plus tune (advance or retard). So a timing of 28 degrees or so at 900 RPM with a MAP of around 53 kPH is probably a base timing of 8 to 12. That pretty much tracks with what I am seeing. When I am hammering this engine at about 6000RPM (same MAP) I would expect timing to be in the mid to high 30s. I assume that is because of the way the cam is set up and the custom kit on this. He quoted me the following on the cam:


.595in of lift
Intake Duration at 50 is 244 degrees
Exhaust Duration at 50 is 248 degrees
Lobe separation is 112 degrees

Learning a bit every day...

@Mike.Bray: Here is my timing table
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216615&d=1753136911

[Mike.Bray]

So I talked to the engine builder today and he told me a few things. Checking timing while hooked to the computer isn't base timing its base timing plus tune (advance or retard). So a timing of 28 degrees or so at 900 RPM with a MAP of around 53 kPH is probably a base timing of 8 to 12. That pretty much tracks with what I am seeing. When I am hammering this engine at about 6000RPM (same MAP) I would expect timing to be in the mid to high 30s. I assume that is because of the way the cam is set up and the custom kit on this. He quoted me the following on the cam:


.595in of lift
Intake Duration at 50 is 244 degrees
Exhaust Duration at 50 is 248 degrees
Lobe separation is 112 degrees

Learning a bit every day...

@Mike.Bray: Here is my timing table
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216615&d=1753136911

That's almost the same cam that I'm running, only real difference is my LSA is 114 degrees.

I don't remember on the Holley system, have to look, but on my Fast Sportsman I can lock the timing at 20 degrees for setting initial timing. You should be able to in the Terminator also.

[danmas]

Decided to work on my F1 car build a bit to take a break from the Cobra. The IRS was actually fairly easy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216664&d=1753234058

Next a little work on the chassis and suspension:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216665&d=1753234366

The engine was pretty easy to assemble and drop in. My youngest daughter did most of the work

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216668&d=1753234470

[JayOH]

I love doing the technic car builds with my son, plenty of details showing how systems operate to point out as you go.

[danmas]

I like that my 17 year old looked at me and said “these are the pistons, right dad?”

[gbranham]

Make sure you get those driveline angles juuuuust right. :)

[weendoggy]

So I talked to the engine builder today and he told me a few things. Checking timing while hooked to the computer isn't base timing its base timing plus tune (advance or retard). So a timing of 28 degrees or so at 900 RPM with a MAP of around 53 kPH is probably a base timing of 8 to 12. That pretty much tracks with what I am seeing. When I am hammering this engine at about 6000RPM (same MAP) I would expect timing to be in the mid to high 30s. I assume that is because of the way the cam is set up and the custom kit on this. He quoted me the following on the cam:


.595in of lift
Intake Duration at 50 is 244 degrees
Exhaust Duration at 50 is 248 degrees
Lobe separation is 112 degrees

Learning a bit every day...

@Mike.Bray: Here is my timing table
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216615&d=1753136911

Have you checked static timing? That's the first thing to do. Then you can start checking the timing to verify it's correct...with a light, not the software. Once that's done you can tune via software. For me, that table looks much in the low/idle area for timing. Easy to experiment once the basics are done. When doing static, don't forget to "uncheck" the box for Idle Spark.

[danmas]

https://youtu.be/B3t6jKUt6MI

[ASL67]

Congratulations!

[rponfick]

You look cool today in the heat.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks and sounds great. Where are you there? Is that a storage unit of some kind? Seemed empty, I expect donuts next time.

[Jeff Kleiner]

That’s fantastic Dan!

:cool:

Jeff

[danmas]

Looks and sounds great. Where are you there? Is that a storage unit of some kind? Seemed empty, I expect donuts next time.

My shop is actually a commercial garage condo that I purchased when my wife got frustrated with me hogging our home garage. It’s pretty cool. I’m a ways away from donuts, at least the kind that aren’t by accident. But yeah, it’s coming….

[Blitzboy54]

My shop is actually a commercial garage condo that I purchased when my wife got frustrated with me hogging our home garage. It’s pretty cool. I’m a ways away from donuts, at least the kind that aren’t by accident. But yeah, it’s coming….

3 words I had never heard used together before today. Quick google search and now I want one.

[gbranham]

Congrats, Dan! Big milestone!

[cv2065]

Sounds great Dan. What an awesome ‘testing’ facility you have there. :D

[danmas]

Knocking some items off the punch list. Hooked up the DigitalGuard Dawg. It’s a nice system but it comes with a few challenges. The first one is that it’s a long press to put the car is run mode. That’s actually fine and expected. The next one is that you need to depress the brake to start it. I am not super fond of that as it means I need to have the brake and the clutch on to start. Brake to start is fine for an automatic and I can even see it in a manual, but I don’t really need both. I can run the wire to the clutch switch effectively marking only one pedal required or I can wire up an ignition enabled button. I did that for testing and it works pretty well. Holy smokes I am ready to be done with wiring. I also hooked up the 12 “ dash which is kind of nice. Ok very nice. One thing I don’t like is it restarts when I crank the ignition which is annoying. I either have something miswired or it’s a feature. Edit: It’s fairly common and it has to do with the voltage drop while cranking. The dash doesn’t like it and as such I will run a wire straight to the battery for this now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216867&d=1753639087


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fm8LWkUBP4

[Rian_Colorado]

3 words I had never heard used together before today. Quick google search and now I want one.

Do it if you can! It's well worth it.

Mine will have a golf simulator here in a few more months... (like I NEED more projects.....)

[Rian_Colorado]

I could never get my head around the DGD. I just bypassed all that stuff and wired the clutch SS to a momentary push button hidden under the dash. One would need to know where 2 switchs are, AND be able to operate a vehicle with 3 pedals in order to steal it! Good on you for wiring it though - sounds like a fair bit of work

Rian

[Mike.Bray]

I certainly have mixed emotions about my DGD. Originally I had the interlocks wired in series with the clutch and brake pedal. I've changed it now to the brake and neutral switch in the TKX. I don't mind having to have the trans in neutral and the brake depressed to start it but you have to do the same to kill it. If I was doing it over I would use the marine version which doesn't have this requirement.

The other nuance I have is the boot up time for the ECU. If I just hop in, put it in neutral, step on the brake, and hit the button it will immediately go into start mode. But it will take a few seconds to fire as the ECU is still booting up. With a key you typically have a slight pause between turning to IGN and Start. What I do now is not depress the brake pedal and hit the button twice to activate the ignition circuit. Then I depress the brake pedal and hit the button again and it fires right up. It's just a little routine but I'm used t it now.

[gbranham]

I went the exact opposite direction...I have no neutral or clutch safety switch. I love being able to reach in the car and start it. I've never forgotten to put it in neutral to do that.

[danmas]

I certainly have mixed emotions about my DGD. Originally I had the interlocks wired in series with the clutch and brake pedal. I've changed it now to the brake and neutral switch in the TKX. I don't mind having to have the trans in neutral and the brake depressed to start it but you have to do the same to kill it. If I was doing it over I would use the marine version which doesn't have this requirement.

The other nuance I have is the boot up time for the ECU. If I just hop in, put it in neutral, step on the brake, and hit the button it will immediately go into start mode. But it will take a few seconds to fire as the ECU is still booting up. With a key you typically have a slight pause between turning to IGN and Start. What I do now is not depress the brake pedal and hit the button twice to activate the ignition circuit. Then I depress the brake pedal and hit the button again and it fires right up. It's just a little routine but I'm used t it now.

I’m probably going to put in a switch that enables start. It will be a fighter pilot kind of switch with a switch cover and all that.

Or maybe not. I’m somewhat conflicted in that I can see an over the top aggro dash and controls versus a somewhat understated but bad asp dash. I’m at a point in the build where I have to choose aesthetically and I’ve never been much good at that….. I will delay a bit until I choose my path and it will be what it will be… so much fun regardless. Thanks for the comment…

[danmas]

I went the exact opposite direction...I have no neutral or clutch safety switch. I love being able to reach in the car and start it. I've never forgotten to put it in neutral to do that.
See I like this a bit as well. Minimalistic and stark and painful if you get it wrong so don’t get it wrong….

So conflicted…

I suppose the good news is that this won’t be the only one I do… that said, you never forget your first one…

[Blitzboy54]

This is why I used the marine version. The brake switch with a manual transmission is simply overkill.

[Rian_Colorado]

I went the exact opposite direction...I have no neutral or clutch safety switch. I love being able to reach in the car and start it. I've never forgotten to put it in neutral to do that.

Same here! None of my cars in the 80's or 90's had "clutch safety switches".
I mean, I get WHY the auto industry did that, but...

I have a covered toggle switches on both builds to turn on 12V power to everything/the ignition button. The covers I've inverted so that it's not "uncover to turn on" it's "uncover to turn OFF. Don't want to inadvertently shut the car off in motion!

I think the DGD has a lot of "cool factor" but I just really never got the point of it in one of my builds. If Nicolas Cage show up to steal my car though, I'll be sad....

RR

[Derald Rice]

Me too....I like the KISS principle.

NO power brakes, steering, clutch interlock, ,or neutral safety switch.

Maybe it's a generational thing sort of thing.

[Mike.Bray]

I would absolutely hate not having power steering, would seriously take so much joy out of driving it.

[rponfick]

Derald, I think you are almost in the same generation as I am, so KISS neighbor.
Ralph

[cv2065]

Me too....I like the KISS principle.

NO power brakes, steering, clutch interlock, ,or neutral safety switch.

Maybe it's a generational thing sort of thing.

Power brakes aren't necessary, but power steering? Not going to do without that.

[danmas]

August was pretty much a wash due to travel, shipping kids off to school, basic officer leadership course and finally a wedding. I jumped back into the shop today and did some cleanup and got back in the saddle. Not a ton of activity but I have a plan now and will grind out things over the next couple weeks. I also ran the car for about 30 minutes. Things are tight and the idle is pretty steady at about 850 rpms. Fan kicks on 180 degrees F. Cools it right down in about a minute and shuts off.

Back to building.

I disconnected the brake and the clutch safety switch. They are not necessary for me and I like the car better without the unneeded stuff.


https://youtube.com/shorts/IwJAGhy2xRo?feature=share

[danmas]

I also set the ride height today. 4” in the front and 4.75” in the rear. I have QA1 shocks and you can mount them either way (body up or down). Mine are mounted body up and I have it adjusted for a relative aggressive ride. They are dual adjustable. I have it set to 9 clicks on compression and 11 clicks on rebound. Smack dab in the middle of the aggressive adjustment range. No idea if it’s right or not but it’s a starting point. Link to the QA installation docs. More for me than for anyone else….but perhaps it will help someone else..

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-pqjmdlht5a/content/Install_Inst/D&S%20SHOCK%20INSTALL_REV_9919-172.pdf

[danmas]

For those considering a digital dash, the Holley pro dash is pretty amazing. You get many of the gauges by default if you enable everything on your ECU. That said, perhaps you want to wire in turn signals or a fuel gauge. Its not too hard really. So the ECU controls a lot of stuff with respect to the engine and I guess I would recommend you just leave that alone and wire it up to spec. The pro dash has inputs that are designed for lots of aftermarket stuff. In particular, the fuel gauge. This is relatively simple. First you need to run a wire from your rear harness to the dash itself. Yes, bypass the ECU.

Pin 21 on the Holley Dash Connector is set up for a fuel gauge. This is IO #7 (The internal one). Run a wire from pin 21 at the back of the dash to your fuel sender. The way I did it was to connect it to the green wire coming out of the rear harness. This wire connects to your sender. Next, you configure the dash to have a fuel gauge and then you customize the dash to display the fuel gauge.

Edit: One thing that messed me up was that a 0 ohms reading translates into 100% full tank. That seems really odd to me, but there you go. So if your tank is reading 100% full and you are on fumes, check your connection.
Link to the instructions:
Pro dash fuel gauge set up, page 6 (https://documents.holley.com/199r12075.pdf).



You have to add a 1mm pin to the back of the connector. This is how:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnXJWf45VOc

[danmas]

Customizing the dash:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOu4_BiEPkg

[NA5KAR]

Hi Dan. I'm Dan as well. Just wanted to say that I read through your whole thread this afternoon, and I'm impressed. I started my build in late 2018 and I'm embarrassed to say that I'm not finished yet. I'm about where you are, but with all my panels on. My delay in getting the car done was primarily due to my business ramping up, and me working 12 hour days (weekends too) as far back as I can remember. About a month ago, I had a revelation. I need to enjoy life before I can't, so I got back in the garage, and finishing this amazing car is all I want to do now. Anyway, your thread is awesome, and I look forward to seeing how you progress. I hope to contribute a 'here is where I'm at' thread, and keep it going till the end of the build. With your permission, I'll copy two of your add on items. The radiator screen and the side pipe heat shield. Both are amazing. I think I found the vendor for the side pipe shields, but I understand that we cannot post non supporting vendors. If you have a chance, can you message me with the company name. Just for confirmation. Best of luck on your build.

[danmas]

Hi Dan. I'm Dan as well. Just wanted to say that I read through your whole thread this afternoon, and I'm impressed. I started my build in late 2018 and I'm embarrassed to say that I'm not finished yet. I'm about where you are, but with all my panels on. My delay in getting the car done was primarily due to my business ramping up, and me working 12 hour days (weekends too) as far back as I can remember. About a month ago, I had a revelation. I need to enjoy life before I can't, so I got back in the garage, and finishing this amazing car is all I want to do now. Anyway, your thread is awesome, and I look forward to seeing how you progress. I hope to contribute a 'here is where I'm at' thread, and keep it going till the end of the build. With your permission, I'll copy two of your add on items. The radiator screen and the side pipe heat shield. Both are amazing. I think I found the vendor for the side pipe shields, but I understand that we cannot post non supporting vendors. If you have a chance, can you message me with the company name. Just for confirmation. Best of luck on your build.

Hi ya Dan! Thanks for the kind words. I really haven’t done much that was unique, I swiped these ideas from other people. Glad to see you are building again. I will PM you the vendor that someone else told me about. I look forward to reading about your build.

I was in another master builder’s shop the other day and I got to see his ride. He is going so much faster than I did and his work is so clean. I learn something every day and what little I can add to it I try to memorialize so other folks can leverage and extend. Please share your build! Welcome or should I say welcome back?

Regards,

Dan

[danmas]

A couple of things for people that (like me) didn’t really know. I took some temperature readings on my pipes after it had run for a bit. 430 degrees on the number five pipe at the block (ceramic coated). 470 degrees on the number 1 pipe at the block (just high temp bbq paint). Pipes at the collector on both sides about 400 degrees. Pipes at the heat shields (where you get snake bites) about 150 degrees. Conclusion:

Ceramic coating gave me roughly 40 to 50 degrees. Heat shields give me about 200 degrees or so of protection. 150 will hurt. Another 200 degrees will burn the heck out of you. This isn’t empirical but just a few observations for what they are worth….

Dan

[danmas]

Today I cleaned up a few things. Installed a clutch stop. It’s not quite right (needs another lock nut) but its there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218305&d=1756767134

Finished the hangers for the side pipes and the collectors. That just involved making a few angled brackets. The top bolt needs replaced but it will do for a bit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218306&d=1756767134

Also making adjustable brackets for the side pipes at the foot boxes. This is heavily leveraging SJDave’s design. Ok the only thing different is his will look a lot better than mine. Still trying to find my grove when it comes to metal work. Couple things I learned when drilling 2x2 angle iron. First, go slow on your drill press. I had mine at about 600 rpm. Next you dont really need to step up in drill bit sizes. Get the right size, use oil, go slow. I was going too fast on my first hole and literally welded my bit to the iron. Once I settled down the press and the right bit with oil went through quite easily.

Link to SJDave’s design…. Design (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47371-sidepipe-mounting-bracket&p=539061&viewfull=1#post539061)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218307&d=1756767134

Onword…

[cv2065]

The side pipes will move a little with your bracket when driving around. Looks like that rubber piece is really close to the pipe and will make a burning mess if it makes contact when hot. Might be the angle of the picture but thought I’d mention it.

[Blitzboy54]

Dan! Kudos on pulling the trigger on a digital dash. I chickened out and think I regret it. Really looking forward to seeing how you mount it.

[danmas]

The side pipes will move a little with your bracket when driving around. Looks like that rubber piece is really close to the pipe and will make a burning mess if it makes contact when hot. Might be the angle of the picture but thought I’d mention it.

It’s a bit of both. The pipes are about 1” off the rubber. That said I will probably flip it around.

[egchewy79]

The side pipes will move a little with your bracket when driving around. Looks like that rubber piece is really close to the pipe and will make a burning mess if it makes contact when hot. Might be the angle of the picture but thought I’d mention it.

I thought the same thing. you might want to move the rubber isolater to the top of the hanger instead of directly above the pipe.

[danmas]

I thought the same thing. you might want to move the rubber isolater to the top of the hanger instead of directly above the pipe.

Yup. Good call.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Yeah Dan, you have pretty much all of the parts, just not necessarily in the proper order :) I can guarantee that the rubber hanger at the bottom will interfere with the body. Here's how I do 'em (these pics show J-pipes but ball flange headers get the same)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181943&d=1679580697

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181945&d=1679580735

Cheers,
Jeff

[Justin]

August was pretty much a wash due to travel, shipping kids off to school, basic officer leadership course and finally a wedding. I jumped back into the shop today and did some cleanup and got back in the saddle. Not a ton of activity but I have a plan now and will grind out things over the next couple weeks. I also ran the car for about 30 minutes. Things are tight and the idle is pretty steady at about 850 rpms. Fan kicks on 180 degrees F. Cools it right down in about a minute and shuts off.

Back to building.

I disconnected the brake and the clutch safety switch. They are not necessary for me and I like the car better without the unneeded stuff.


https://youtube.com/shorts/IwJAGhy2xRo?feature=share

KIDS!

I added the neutral switch. So it's either clutch of neutral for the starter to engage. I want to be able to start the car without sitting in it. I plan to show the car and if someone decides to push buttons or anything I'm safe. Plus I want to be able to just push the start without sitting in the car and if I leave it in gear and don't use the e brake (old habits die hard), I want to be covered. I've see too many mistakes over the years. I saw a car back into another at the drag strip. He started it in gear. He was in reverse when he shut the car off... I also saw a young woman drive her Honda over a curb. She had some work done at the shop I worked at. The sales guy left the car in gear after he parked it. She jumped in and hit the key.

[danmas]

Flipped the brackets around this morning:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218341&d=1756824229

Started making a bigger access panel in case I need to access the fuel lines…

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218340&d=1756824229

[Ejzajac]

It's a bit hard to determine from the picture. What is the size of the turnbuckle used? Great simplistic and adjustable idea!

ED

[Rian_Colorado]

"Visited a master builder" Ha!! My ego feels better, but somehow I don't think that moniker applies. Come by any time if you want to see more. What you should really see is the trash bin of bad or non functional ideas!

Glad you turned that hanger around, I thought the same thing as others with the rubber being that close to the collector.

Glad to see you're back at it! I'll be gone for about 5 of the next 7 weeks, so something tells me I'll be behind you shortly.....

Rian

[danmas]

It's a bit hard to determine from the picture. What is the size of the turnbuckle used? Great simplistic and adjustable idea!

ED

I used the M8 version. Link here: turnbuckle (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDK338PV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)
Wasn’t my idea. I ripped it off from Jeff Kleiner i think.

[Ejzajac]

Thanks. Order is in!
Ed

[danmas]

Also making adjustable brackets for the side pipes at the foot boxes. This is heavily leveraging SJDave’s design. Ok the only thing different is his will look a lot better than mine. Still trying to find my grove when it comes to metal work. Couple things I learned when drilling 2x2 angle iron. First, go slow on your drill press. I had mine at about 600 rpm. Next you dont really need to step up in drill bit sizes. Get the right size, use oil, go slow. I was going too fast on my first hole and literally welded my bit to the iron. Once I settled down the press and the right bit with oil went through quite easily.

Link to SJDave’s design…. Design (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47371-sidepipe-mounting-bracket&p=539061&viewfull=1#post539061)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218307&d=1756767134

Onword…

So, there is a theory that reincarnation is a way of repeating life lessons until you learn them completely. You start out as a grasshopper and learn to be a good grasshopper. Then a ditch digger, you master that and you move on to the next thing, shoe maker or baker or something. Anyway, you stay a shoe maker as many life times as it takes to get good at being a shoe maker.

I suppose I will be at this “reincarnation phase” for many many more life times. Philosophy aside, don’t be me. I built these super cool brackets and I am pretty proud of them. I was super careful to measure them precisely based on SJDave’s design. It’s a good design. I made them pretty spot on if I do say so myself. Of course I didn’t think to check if my hardware (hanger brackets) were the same as SJDave’s. Of course they are not. I have the GASN performance hanger brackets. The holes are very different. Ah HA! But I also have the Factory Five brackets. I could make those work…. And no I can’t. They are very different as well. And so I spent four or so hours making these brackets and it was kind of fun. They don’t work at all. Rather than make them again I looked at what others had done and good enough is good enough. Long story short, measure your parts first when you rip off someone’s design. It’s a good design, just doesn’t work for me.

Have a good day. Measure!

[Nigel Allen]

SJ Dave is probably looking down and smiling. :)

[danmas]

Today I finished up the trunk area. Put a larger access panel in so I can get to the fuel lines if I need to. I don’t expect to need to do it much so I riveted it in, but it’s there if I need it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218472&d=1757121928

Put the passenger floor in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218471&d=1757121928

I want a removable steering wheel so I hooked up the new hub from I.E. 427 Garage with my NRG sk400. Looks like it will work nice with my new wheel. I will need to clip the extra wires because they won’t work with this config but I wanted to dry fit first.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218470&d=1757121928
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218469&d=1757121928

[gbranham]

Looking good, buddy. I'm kind of jelly of that removable steering wheel.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Today I finished up the trunk area. Put a larger access panel in so I can get to the fuel lines if I need to. I don’t expect to need to do it much so I riveted it in, but it’s there if I need it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218472&d=1757121928



Are you using an in tank pump and the Ron Francis connector? If so drill out those rivets, pull the plug and squeeze down the female terminals on the connector so that they fit tighter on the fuel pump pins. This suggestion is coming from a guy who has helped out or towed 5---that isn't a typo---friends who have ended up dead by the side of the road because of poor connections on that plug. Oh, and when you put it back on use screws because if you rivet it you could be like my buddy Aaron who had to gain access to his using a flat screwdriver and a rock to bust the rivet heads off while sitting dead in a parking lot!

Jeff

[gbranham]

Jeff is spot on here with the connector. I found both my pump and fuel level connectors to be loose. I heated them with a heat gun to bend them in more, and now they lock in tight.

[danmas]

Hee. Two steps forward and all that… ok, drill rivets, squeeze female, screws. Got it.

[danmas]

Wired up the horn today. Works great.

Tried wiring up the headlights and I am stumped. I donated my headlight switch to another builder and i am using a billet switch with a 30amp relay. I am not sure what to wire the billet switch to. I have a latching billet and i wired one side to 86. Edit: the other side goes to hot and 30.


Not sure what to connect the other side to. I have depinned the original head light switch. I have the following wires: Red HDLT1, Red HDLT2, Blue which is headlight switch/dimmer, two joined tan lines for running/parking lights, one white line for dash lights and the curtesy grey wire. And of course a ground wire. I am unsure where to hook in the switch. Red1 and red 2 are powered. If i jump either red to blue my head lights go on. I do have the toggle switch for high and low beams set up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218529&d=1757363387

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218530&d=1757363387

[danmas]

Still wrestling with this but I think this helps a lot. Edit: This is the video to watch and explains it all. 87a is always on so I am not using it. For my bright/low beams configuration I will use 87a as the low beams and 87 as the high beams with a latching billet. Right now I have it configured to just put on the running lights.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2Mr2Zgv1Ck

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218560&d=1757385807

[cc2Arider]

Hi Dan,

I really like how you are making your build "your own" and making it work for you :)

Craig C

[danmas]

And electrical continues. Today I wired up hazards and scoured the shop for a toggle switch for turn signals. I don’t have the toggle and I think I never got it. Doesn’t much matter as I am using I.e.427 Garages self canceling but I wanted to test. I figured hazards would be good enough and they kind of were. I couldn’t for the life of me get them working. Just steady on. Checked the flashers, wires and on and on. Finally I thought, I wonder if it’s a fuse… sure enough, I had popped a 15 amp fuse. When I replaced that the hazards worked just fine. Sort of. Switch wouldn’t turn them off so I have something mis-wired which probably explains the popped fuse. Anyway, progress. I’m taking a couple of days to go camping and yell at squirrels. I guess my lesson for today is check your fuses. Getting pretty good at tracing wires….

[Justin]

I love reading this stuff. I put a pin in the wrong hole last night. Tried really hard to remove it from the cavity. Used the right tool. Was gentle too. But the wire pulled out. Damn. So now on my pinout sheet reads "Pin 10: DEAD HOLE". Thank the good car wizards that I have 2 spare cavities.

[danmas]

I’m glad you like reading about my adventures. It’s pretty humbling in a way and then it’s pretty awesome at the same time. I’m building a car! How cool is that?

[danmas]

I used Pins 30 and 22 on the back of my digital dash for turn signals. These tie to I/O 8 and 9 respectively. I used I/O 10 for my high beam indicator. It ties to pin 31 on the pro dash connector. Side note, you need the right size wire to make this work. Too thick and it won't seat in the back of the pin out connecter. I used a 16 gauge wire. This is a place holder post. Pictures or a video to follow....

So that worked out pretty well. Nothing much to show except the plug and that seems like a waste of virtual real estate.

However!

I found these at Amazon and I highly recommend! Stubby drill bits! (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVBPHKN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)

Very useful. First they dont flex as much so easier to avoid breaking. Next it makes it easier to get into tight spaces. And they are double ended, so … well

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219062&d=1758235736

I also installed the driver side floor today.

[danmas]

Little bit of seepage from my power steering pump. It looks like that back can be tightened down with a spanner of some sort. Am I crazy or is there another way? Hate to have to tear out the pump....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219277&d=1758660250

[gbranham]

This is curious, and perhaps where its leaking. That entire circular piece seems to be held in by that circular spring clip.

Greg
219282

[cv2065]

Agree with Greg. Looks like it has been damaged and may need to be replaced.

[danmas]

Holy smokes you guys have eagle eyes. Never saw that before. That said, even though it looks like a gasket that is coming out, I don't think it is. I think it may have been some plastic from the packaging that the engine guy didn't pull all the way off. That plate is solid metal all the way around. Here it is cleaned off with no seepage (which kind of defeats the purpose of posting the original picture.)

The two little idents look like a place for a special spanner wrench, but I dunno. Thoughts?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219284&d=1758665031

[danmas]

Wild... I cant tell but I think:

Its gotta be a shadow. That is a solid bit of metal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219286&d=1758667742


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219285&d=1758665926

[gbranham]

What model number is that pump? I'm guessing that rear cover has a gasket under it that has failed. The circular spring clip probably holds it tight, meaning I doubt you can turn the rear cover to tighten it. But I am only guessing based on your pictures.

Greg

[danmas]

Setting aside power steering seepage for a hot minute, I worked on modifying the i.e.427 Garage turn signal.

First, I found this mask (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SSG98FP?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1) at Amazon and its great.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219293&d=1758671529

Next, the mod for the turn signal went great.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219294&d=1758671529

Frank tells you how to do it here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1C3nd6SPdI

[danmas]

What model number is that pump? I'm guessing that rear cover has a gasket under it that has failed. The circular spring clip probably holds it tight, meaning I doubt you can turn the rear cover to tighten it. But I am only guessing based on your pictures.

Greg

I think it is this one:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-340106b

If you go to the link above and look at the 360 rotation, you can rotate it to the back and it looks identical to my pump.

[i.e.427]

Next, the mod for the turn signal went great.

Frank tells you how to do it here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1C3nd6SPdI

Thanks Dan! I just want to let everyone know, our turn signal works awesome with the Mk5 as well. We've sold a number of them to Mk5 owners going all the way back to a guy in the first Mk5 build school class. Want to do a quick release and still use the Factory 5 turn signal switch, we have 2 quick release hub options for that as well.

Frank

[gbranham]

I found some videos on YouTube of how to rebuild a GM type II pump. Google em and check it out. There are rebuild kits for them, and the kits appear to contain a rubber o-ring and some gaskets that fit behind that rear cover. Bet yours needs that. With all the scratches on the rear of yours, are you sure its new?

[danmas]

Greg,

That was my first thought (how is this a new pump). Thanks for the pointer on rebuild. So it is clear that that back cover is solid but the o ring that seals it is probably tweaked. Simple fix I suppose but annoying that I have to drain the system. Ah well… thanks!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5DJTw1EWNs

[cv2065]

Greg,

That was my first thought (how is this a new pump). Thanks for the pointer on rebuild. So it is clear that that back cover is solid but the o ring that seals it is probably tweaked. Simple fix I suppose but annoying that I have to drain the system. Ah well… thanks!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5DJTw1EWNs

Hmm...Not sure on this one. The last thing that you want to do is to have to pull this again if it is indeed a used pump. Bothers me when guys use metal picks on a metal gasket surface. To me it's just inviting a forever leak if the metal that the o-ring sits on gets scribed. I know it's $200 but I might just replace it.

[danmas]

Hmm...Not sure on this one. The last thing that you want to do is to have to pull this again if it is indeed a used pump. Bothers me when guys use metal picks on a metal gasket surface. To me it's just inviting a forever leak if the metal that the o-ring sits on gets scribed. I know it's $200 but I might just replace it.

Have a note out to the engine builder. I paid for a new pump not a rebuilt or used one. We will see.

[danmas]

For those following along, builder says it was new and came from cvf. Seems reasonable to me but wonder if someone returned it to cvf and they shipped it out again. Either way it isn’t a ton of money to replace, it’s this one:

https://cvfracing.com/black-gm-type-ii-power-steering-pump-with-attached-reservoir/

I have an adapter because I didn’t need the attached reservoir (got in the way of the steering column). I won’t replace it just yet as it is relatively easy to do and fluid could have been there because of some bad burping when I was filling the system. I may rebuild it also. That said, I kind of doubt that it was a splash from burping but hope springs eternal. However, I think it is seeping. Will let it go for a bit while I button up the dash.

As an aside, a lot of times these are notes for myself for when I build my next one or if I have forgotten why I did something. I recognize these are a little detailed but I find it valuable and occasionally it might help someone out.

Have fun all…

Dan

[danmas]

Cause a man can never have too many tools, I picked up a welding table for 100 bones. (If anyone in the front range area needs a 4x8 steel welding table, pm me and I will send you a link to a guy who is trying to get rid of some of his stuff.). Anyway, it needs a bit of cleanup, but its a great deal in material alone.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219388&d=1758915999
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219389&d=1758915999

[danmas]

Today I mastered delay and procrastination. I am really out of things to do before cutting my dash and I think I am ready for it this week. So I wandered around the shop and tightened up some things. First. I can never find the right firewall gaskets. So I got a 1/4” sheet of rubber and I made my own.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219557&d=1759102275

I also installed my ACC fuse box (which is probably overkill but it makes things tidy). I also have one of these for a battery junction box.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219556&d=1759102275

This box puts all my relays in one little bundle and makes for easy mounting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219555&d=1759102227

Finally I used my hydraulic ram to spread my roll bars a bit so I can drill them and figure out what my plan is as far as coating them. I’m actually considering a leather wrap so they don’t get too hot to touch….

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219554&d=1759102227

Tomorrow (maybe. probably. Possibly) I cut the dash.

[cv2065]

Cut that thing! :D. I’m curious to see what you come up with for the roll bar covering. Never seen that before and I’m a fan of wandering off the reservation!

[gbranham]

I look at that picture of your relay box, and I can't help but think of how far you've come. A year ago, you scarcely knew what a relay was, or how to wire it. That's pretty awesome!

Greg

[Justin]

I have that same little relay box. Cant say I’m going to need it. But it’s a nice little piece. I do wish it had the option to run the relays NC/NO instead of always the opposite.

[danmas]

Today I realized my thermostat housing was leaking. Paper gasket is saturated and dripping out. I stuffed a paper towel under it and will make that a tomorrow problem.

Mike Bray suggests a CSR o-ring based housing. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/csi-9111c

Papa Dave suggests a Honda based sealant. https://a.co/d/eMMwzy8

I also have RTX and that may work. Edit: Greg used rtx on his and said that worked. Thin bead, 10 minutes to set and then finger tight bolts. Let it sit overnight and torque the next day. This sounds like my plan as I all ready have rtx.

I did do some raptor liner on a couple of bits of untreated aluminum as well as stain my door straps. Like many others I used leather dye and I was surprised at how little I needed and how good they look.

Link for the dye: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ROPJXE?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_2&th=1&psc=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219595&d=1759178255
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219593&d=1759178255
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219594&d=1759178255

[danmas]

Back from some off the grid camping and tackling the final cut on my dash. Dry fitting everything as there is very little room for error with the 12.3” Holley dash. First, looking for a mount and everyone wants about $100 bucks for a few bent bits of metal. I used under sink mounts and bent the brackets myself. Have to be pretty careful about where to make the final cut. There just isn’t that much room…


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220006&d=1760220728

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220005&d=1760220728

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220004&d=1760220728

Will think about it over night and cut tomorrow.

Dan…..

[Jeff Kleiner]

Afraid that the top center and upper left (right side in the photo) will conflict with the dash hoop...

Jeff

[danmas]

@Jeff, yep. Think that is true. Considering just running with four and shifting the dash down a bit more. I can also trim the far right one a bit. Can’t really shift it towards the glove box much more as I run into the down bar on the dash as well. Playing some Tetris… Just going slow…

[Blitzboy54]

I love that you’re doing this. I chickened out.

[cv2065]

Looking good! Not sure what you are using to bond those to the back of the dash, but with light sanding of the area with 220 grit sandpaper, the JB Weld epoxy for plastic works awesome! I glued a bunch of plastic zip tie holders with it. Very solid urethane epoxy. You can get it at Walmart.

[danmas]

Looking good! Not sure what you are using to bond those to the back of the dash, but with light sanding of the area with 220 grit sandpaper, the JB Weld epoxy for plastic works awesome! I glued a bunch of plastic zip tie holders with it. Very solid urethane epoxy. You can get it at Walmart.
Yep! I remember you told me to use it when I was doing my glovebox. Good stuff and what I will use. Thanks!

[danmas]

Made the final adjustments to the dash today and it’s in. I like it. I think it’s going to look quite fun when it’s all cleaned up.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220197&d=1760485349

[gbranham]

That is an impressively large display! I like it! How's the sun glare when the dash is in place at the correct angle?

[danmas]

That is an impressively large display! I like it! How's the sun glare when the dash is in place at the correct angle?

Not sure. I figure if it’s awful I can make a cowl or punt and go back to other gauges… it’s a journey….

[Cobraman]

Wow that looks amazing nice work.

[weendoggy]

Put a 12" Pro Dash in a Panoz GTS and the glare is horrendous, and it has a roof. I see a lot of glare coming your way, even with headlights behind you.

[danmas]

Put a 12" Pro Dash in a Panoz GTS and the glare is horrendous, and it has a roof. I see a lot of glare coming your way, even with headlights behind you.
It’s a journey!

[danmas]

Made the final adjustments to the dash today and it’s in. I like it. I think it’s going to look quite fun when it’s all cleaned up.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220197&d=1760485349

I figured I would follow up on my post with some details about cutting the dash. I was reluctant to do this as it’s a “crossing the rubicon” moment and it is arguably one of the most noticeable details on a car like this. That said, and with a bit of perspective, it’s a $500 part on a car worth much much more than that. Fairly easy to get another and start again if I jacked it up. Still, I want to go slow and do as good a job as I could. I’m not great at free handing things so I planned out my cut several times. I put several layers of tape on the dash so I might avoid that accidental slip/gash on the face. I thought about cutting it from the back, but I thought it was more important to see the face of the dash.

The actual cut went surprisingly easy. I set up a folding table outside and a stool so I was not struggling with back issues. I used a battery powered dremal and cutting wheel. I cut to the inside of my square knowing that I would probably be too small on the initial cut. I also used a cut, reposition, cut method. So instead of trying to keep a straight line as I cut I positioned the cutting wheel on the line and just dropped it straight down. I then moved another inch along and rinse and repeat. That worked really well. Finally, to make the dash fit I simply used the sanding wheel to take off a little bit here and there until it dropped in. People that are good at this stuff could probably knock it out in 5 minutes. I took an hour and that was ok.

Take aways:
1. Go slow.
2. Measure a bunch of times and keep measuring until you are nearly certain.
3. With a cutting wheel the dash cuts very very easily. Surprisingly easy. Think butter and hot knife easy.

While no real regrets, now that I have done it in anger I wouldn’t take so long to do the cuts again. As a few of you said “cut the dang thing and move on”!

[Blitzboy54]

I think its sexy AF.

Nice job Dan.

[JimStone]

That looks really nice!

[bobl]

I'm using the 7" Holley dash. Washout is pretty bad with the sun directly behind you. You have to be looking straight on to get a good view. Much angle and you can't read it well without leaning over. Experiment with colors and configuration to get the best view. I put the most important readouts closest to the steering wheel. Another thing to be aware of is they are not totally water proof. I got caught in a hard shower and it fogged up. Holley replaced it under warranty. I made a plastic cover that i can put on it when I get caught in the rain. With that said, it is really cool. I set mine up with digital display and have every function on it. You can also tune with it. I'm constantly tweaking something.

Bob

[danmas]

Now to make it all work….
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220227&d=1760553644

[cv2065]

Looks great Dan!!

[gbranham]

Nice work, Dan! Looks like an OEM installation.

Greg

[danmas]

Chasing an electrical gremlin today. Somehow when I was wiring in my accessories fusebox I connected it to the ignition always hot which meant I was powering up my high speed Holley dash all the time. More wire chasing and I was able to tack it into my acc2 wire off my digital guard dawg. All good! I also ran out of gas which totally freaked me out. I only put a couple gallons into start and I have idled enough and started it enough to go empty. Since I didn’t have the digital fuel gauge hooked up I used a usb endoscope and had that aha moment. Initially I was chasing down the “why is my fuel pressure all of a sudden 24psi instead of 41?” Fun moments in the shop. Finally do yourself a favor and get some silicone covers for all the 12v hot all the time feeds. (Actually, cover everything!) I was fiddling with my water neck and managed to accidentally tap my alternator wire with my wrench. Scared the bajeezus out of me. I got these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BL4S5YJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

And they look like this installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220273&d=1760647580
Cheap insurance for clods like me…

[cv2065]

I have those silicone covers over all battery, cut off switch, alternator and fuse terminals in the engine bay. Functional and look good. I wouldn't do a build without them. When you get ready to get it out on the street for a 'real' run, check your spark plugs. All of that idling from the garage work can foul them out a bit. Mine were a little sooty and had some unburnt fuel in the pipes on startup. Changed out the plugs and runs like a champ.

[danmas]

I have those silicone covers over all battery, cut off switch, alternator and fuse terminals in the engine bay. Functional and look good. I wouldn't do a build without them. When you get ready to get it out on the street for a 'real' run, check your spark plugs. All of that idling from the garage work can foul them out a bit. Mine were a little sooty and had some unburnt fuel in the pipes on startup. Changed out the plugs and runs like a champ.
Thanks for the tip on the plugs. Agree on the covers. Obvious in retrospect and they do look good. Cheap insurance.

[danmas]

Today I took a break from the dash and decided to fix the seepage on my cooling system water neck. I sucked out some of my coolant and positioned the suction tube right below the water neck and loosened it up. Not too much spillage and the water neck came out pretty easily. The gasket was a mess so I cleaned up the surface pretty well on the block. Then I went to the neck and had an interesting moment. I suspect that the builder left the plastic on the gasket when he assembled it which is part of the reason it didn’t seal quite right. Ah well. Easy enough to fix.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220348&d=1760746463

I then cracked my rtv. I originally got this tube for my headers but ended up not using it. Anyway, I opened it and it must have been under pressure because it literally exploded in my hands. Someone said this stuff gets everywhere. Yup. It does.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220347&d=1760746463

Yuck. But I was able to put a 1/16th inch or so seal on the neck and mate it to the block. Let it dry for an hour (per directions) and then cracked it down to dry overnight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220346&d=1760746463

Guess we will see if it works.

[gbranham]

Who built your engine?

[JimStone]

Who built your engine?

Somebody in a hurry it seems



Oh, the ol' RTV bomb?

No matter how careful you are, it always ends up everywhere

[danmas]

Interestingly enough you can see a bit of the plastic in the first picture I posted. Considering the huge number of mistakes I have made on this build, I’m going to say I’m super happy with the engine and leave it at that. Each problem is a bit of an opportunity for me to solve and learn something new. It’s not always easy. That said, I’m watching the Ewan McGregor series on traveling the world on his motorcycle. The first set (The Long Way Around) deals with some of their struggles in Mongolia. At one point they considered abandoning the Mongolian portion and just making a run for Russia. They didn’t because at least some part of the journey is overcoming the struggle. My build isn’t anywhere as clean as some of the phenomenal builders here. (Side eye towards Mike, Jeff, Paul, Chad, Greg, Jesse, Topher, Frank, Rian… and so on.) But it is my build. And I love it and I’m super proud of it. Every rivet, line, ding, drip and dent is mine. Every issue is something I ultimately resolved. Many times with help from the community and I sometimes fixed it elegantly and sometimes ugly. And honestly I’m good with that. It’s the Journey. It’s my journey. Carry on.

[cv2065]

You've got a great build rolling Dan. Keep chipping away at it!

[tnt_motorsports]

Somebody in a hurry it seems



Oh, the ol' RTV bomb?

No matter how careful you are, it always ends up everywhere

I find the only thing worse than RTV is antiseize! That's like baby �� it gets everywhere.

[Mike.Bray]

I find the only thing worse than RTV is antiseize! That's like baby �� it gets everywhere.

220357

[Blitzboy54]

Interestingly enough you can see a bit of the plastic in the first picture I posted. Considering the huge number of mistakes I have made on this build, I’m going to say I’m super happy with the engine and leave it at that. Each problem is a bit of an opportunity for me to solve and learn something new. It’s not always easy. That said, I’m watching the Ewan McGregor series on traveling the world on his motorcycle. The first set (The Long Way Around) deals with some of their struggles in Mongolia. At one point they considered abandoning the Mongolian portion and just making a run for Russia. They didn’t because at least some part of the journey is overcoming the struggle. My build isn’t anywhere as clean as some of the phenomenal builders here. (Side eye towards Mike, Jeff, Paul, Chad, Greg, Jesse, Topher, Frank, Rian… and so on.) But it is my build. And I love it and I’m super proud of it. Every rivet, line, ding, drip and dent is mine. Every issue is something I ultimately resolved. Many times with help from the community and I sometimes fixed it elegantly and sometimes ugly. And honestly I’m good with that. It’s the Journey. It’s my journey. Carry on.


Simply the best modern documentary I've ever seen. A real life adventure before cell phones and staged drama took over our lives. I still get choked up and I've seen it 5 times. It's nearly impossible to re capture that magic in the follow on trips but they are still a good watch.

I'm a bit of a documentary savant for my money Ken Burns Civil War is the best ever made and the Long Way Round is number 2. If your seeing it for the first time I am honestly jealous. Enjoy it.


Oh and the car looks great too!

[danmas]

Water neck is dry and solid. Happy about that. I also spent about three hours doing some powder coating and epoxying the under sink mounts into my dash to hold the Holley touch screen.

Two of these bars are stone black as is the turn signal. The square on the left is a test. It’s actually a deep metallic purple.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220408&d=1760916150

In some different light.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220410&d=1760916150
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220409&d=1760916150

Finally the straps and I.E. 427’s self canceling turn signal boss with the NRG quick disconnect.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220412&d=1760916237
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220411&d=1760916237

[danmas]

I think it looks pretty good!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220466&d=1760989681

[gbranham]

That looks sharp, Dan. I really hope the glare isn't too bad, because that looks awesome!

Greg

[danmas]

That looks sharp, Dan. I really hope the glare isn't too bad, because that looks awesome!

Greg

Yeah, I hear you. That said, I really only need to know how fast I am going most of the time. I can use Waze or something like that. At night it will be wicked! I can also just have it as my “inside car”.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220479&d=1761010391

[danmas]

I purchased a head unit for the car but it is too big and doesn’t fit right (so I will put it in my jeep). Since I didn’t really know what I wanted and I need to cut my center console I stalked Jesse’s build thread and got the same one he did.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49661-Jesse-builds-another-Cobra-11-061-Exhaust-heat-and-a-little-bling&p=568888&viewfull=1#post568888

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MKJKNKF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Tomorrow or the next day I will cut the center console and mount the battery cutoff, head unit and balance bar adjuster. Perhaps a couple of toggle switches also.

[cc2Arider]

Hey Dan!

I just noticed your key-lock for your Glove Box...is that standard FFR, or did you find your own lock from somewhere else? I've been looking at some from Marine vendors...

Craig C

[danmas]

I used the idea from Jesse and ordered these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BPCDBG2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_5&th=1

And these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B96Q2PVK?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_4&th=1

The thumb latch fits pretty well on the locks.

Dan

[danmas]

After about a two week break due to travel and family time I got back into the shop today for a couple hours. I’m finishing up the dash wiring. I decided to check my work one last time before I buttoned it up and of course my turn signals no longer work. This was frustrating to say the least but the only thing to do is get out the meter and start checking. No power to the switch. Back to the fuse box to check the fuse. Continuity test on the fuse and that comes in good. Check the wire into the fuse box and that’s hot. Ok, now I’m baffled. Hot into fuse box, not hot out… turns out the wire on the bus bar had slipped out and the fuse in the box never hit the hot wire. I suppose when I was checking the fuses earlier and reinserted it into the fuse box the wire must have broken free.

So, anyway, all is well that ends well and I spent an hour and change troubleshooting which is somewhat satisfying. It’s supposed to be challenging. That’s the point.

Now to figure out why my headlights work but my running tail lights don’t. Brake lights work. Turn signals and hazards work. Just no love on the tail lights when the headlights are on. I’m sure it’s a simple fix, just need to chase it.

Have fun building…

Dan

[danmas]

The billet switches I am using add complexity and I am slowly working through it. Not enough time in the shop this month but a couple hours here and there. First, if you use the billet switches for hazards, you could end up in a situation similar to mine where a left turn signal also triggers the hazards. Or a right one. A simple resister won’t do. Diodes might do, but then you have to solder them in or get the right ones. I am using Frank’s turn signal (I.E.427 Garage) which is sweet. He called me up and told me I need a dual pole, dual throw resister. And of course I do. Easy fix and so I ordered these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZNPKM9C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Hooked them up and everything works as expected. As a side note, it’s really great how people look out for you and give you advice here in this community. It’s appreciated!

Thanks Frank!

[danmas]

Update and some things to look for if you are grinding through your build like me.

1. Billet switches are just great. Easy to use and they look and feel nice. To wire up the LEDs on the switches you simply connect the hot side to your relay switch that triggers what ever you are turning on and your ground to ground. What they do not have, at least my billet switches, is a led that triggers when the headlights are on. Would be nice if you had a dim light on them when the headlights are on and a bright one when the switch is flipped. This bummed me out a little bit but, move on. If I care I can get some rgb billet switches and have one color for headlights on and another color for triggered. Next time.

2. If your hazard lights work but not in the rear, even though they used to, it’s because you accidentally disconnected the ground on your trailer converter when you mounted it.

3. If you successfully rehook up the ground and the hazards work all the way around but the turn signals don’t, check your fuse box for your flasher fuse that will likely bite you in the A$$ until you rip the dang fuse box out and set it on fire and replace it with another one. Alternatively you can simply reseat the fuse wire (again) and hope it holds. Maybe a blob of silicone to help it stay put.

4. Chop the extra long bolts on your grab bar before you mount it on the dash. The reason to chop it is so you have multiple ways of removing the dash when the under mount braces are in.

5. Make a standoff plate for your firewall so you can keep it clean and mount your relays, digital guard dawg, trailer adapter, dual pole dual throw relay and so forth. Or get super great lock tape and that way if you need to replace you can pull hard and not worry about bolts and rivets.

6. Read the forum a lot. A thread on alternators may make you go “huh… I wonder” and cause you to read your cvf racing alternator instructions. If your alternator comes preinstalled on your engine you may not have read the instructions and then realize later that they want you to stick a 200 amp fuse between the alternator and the battery. So something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DK16T96C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 also that they want a dedicated ground as they are concerned about corrosion making the ground unstable on the mount to the block. Seems like a stretch but I imagine it has happened which is why they want you to add another ground.


The I.E. 427 turn signal works really well. Feels good and easy to wire.

Dash is pretty much done. Just need to finalize the mount and stick a pin in it. It will be removable and should be pretty solid. Will likely finish the install tomorrow and mount the quick release tomorrow and then it’s on to the entertainment console. That should be relatively straight forward and then it’s time to finish all the sheet metal and killmat and wire trunk stuff.

After that I will dry fit the body and work on the seats. Once the seats are in I will rebleed all the brakes and do an alignment.

Travel has been interfering with my garage time but it feels like I’m in the last big stretch.

Dan

[Blitzboy54]

Your killing it Dan!

[danmas]

For those of you following along:

1. Pin 21 is IO#7 and it is the fuel gauge.
2. Pin 30 is IO#8 and it is the left turn signal indicator.
3. Pin 22 is IO#9 and it is the right turn signal indicator.
4. Pin 31 is IO #10 and it is the High Beam Indicator.

Cranking volts fall to about 9 when starting which really pisses of the digital dash. It pouts and reboots. I have a supercap on order that should rectify the issue. A lot of people just watch their dash reboot but that pisses me off.

IYKYK. This is all digital dash stuff.

Also JB weld isn't great for my brackets that hold the dash on. Going to go old school and rivet them on to the upper cross brace.
And everything takes a lot longer than I think it will but it was satisfying making progress.

Dan

[Nigel Allen]

Don't forget to use a diode in the + supply to the digital dash, before the supercap. Have done this with a few diesel generator control panels. Solves the problem nicely.

Love following your build.

Cheers,

Nige

[danmas]

Don't forget to use a diode in the + supply to the digital dash, before the supercap. Have done this with a few diesel generator control panels. Solves the problem nicely.

Love following your build.

Cheers,

Nige

Thanks for the pointer Nige! Would you be so kind as to suggest the diode I might need?

[Nigel Allen]

I reckon a 20A10 diode should be ok. There will be some in-rush current from the capacitor, hopefully a 20amp diode should get the job done. BTW, do you lose screen supply altogether when cranking? I think the Ron Francis wiring kit cut the accessories feed when cranking.

Cheers,
Nige

[danmas]

I reckon a 20A10 diode should be ok. There will be some in-rush current from the capacitor, hopefully a 20amp diode should get the job done. BTW, do you lose screen supply altogether when cranking? I think the Ron Francis wiring kit cut the accessories feed when cranking.

Cheers,
Nige
Yes, but I wired directly to the cutoff switch and got the same behavior. Thanks for the diode pointer…

[danmas]

…. I.E. 427’s self canceling turn signal boss with the NRG quick disconnect.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220411&d=1760916237

Got a call from Frank last night suggesting that I read up a bit on the quick disconnect NRG I am using. Several people have already noted that you need to cut out the center of the quick disconnect for both the hub and the steering wheel attachment. Just use an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. You do need to disassemble the quick disconnect. It’s simple but there is a spring on the stub that locks the quick disconnect. Be careful the spring doesn’t pop out. Simple to do. So picture above, bad. Picture below, good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222038&d=1763948449
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222036&d=1763948449
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222037&d=1763948449

[danmas]

Today I finished the programming of the dash. Not a huge deal but feels like a good mile stone. Video is cropped a little weird because I have to resize the video or youtube makes it a short and I can't display shorts on this site.

If you want to watch the short click this link. Pretty much the same but a bit better framing.

https://youtube.com/shorts/88M4KMSf78E


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjF-oHf21Z0

[danmas]

Not much cobra time this week. Getting my Ewan McGreggor on.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222626&d=1765250232
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222625&d=1765250118

[Blitzboy54]

That looks so good. I have regrets about not doing it. Great job Dan, she's really coming together.

[danmas]

That looks so good. I have regrets about not doing it. Great job Dan, she's really coming together.
My instructor was a former seal and 70 years old. He has a bone on bone knee and he is probably 140 pounds dripping wet. Tough as nails and has to lift his leg with his hands to get on the bike. Rides like a champ and made it super fun. Bunch of car guys, pilots, Leo’s, and well, guys like us. Creators and makers and doers. So much damn fun.

Thanks for the encouragement Jesse. When you are ready to climb a wall on a 1300 I will be your side kick.

Have a great day!

[danmas]

Got to spend 5 hours in the shop for the first time in a bit. 87% fun. 4% oh damn what did I just do? 6% why doesn’t this work? 3% I can just relocate the battery cutoff to the passenger side transmission tunnel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223214&d=1766535732

https://youtu.be/ld-60ZLq_oo

[danmas]

Did a few small things on the car today. The only one worth talking about is the rack limiters on the power steering. I have big old beefy tires on my fronts and even with the fat tire f-panels it is still possible to rub. It isn’t a huge deal but it bugged me and so I put some limiters on the power steering rack. Dead simple to do. Just expose the joint from the fat end of the boot and snap these in place. I used metal zip ties to reseal the boot but I suppose regular one would work fine as well. Ten minute job. Perhaps overkill but I am ok with that. I have a couple left over if anyone local needs a couple.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FR4TQK7X?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223897&d=1768345631

[danmas]

Brief update: most of the car is complete in some form or fashion except for the aesthetics. I need to do carpet and killmat, finish the audio system, install hinges and windshield and so forth and I’m eager to get that all done. I’ve been tied up doing adventure rides in the Mojave and I have two new projects that cropped up that I have to deal with. My 97 Jeep TJ needs a new clutch (tomorrow I suppose). My 550 threw a rod (I think). That damn N63 engine. Love my beemer but that engine is apparently hot garbage. I think I’m gonna make it a feemer by dropping in a gen 2 coyote with a terminator x max and Holley 13” pro dash. Why you say? Cause not many have done it and having this as a 24 hours of lemons car sounds like too much stupid fun. Lot of words to say I’m still poking away at things but all my hobbies are keeping me busy.

Have fun with the journey everyone.

Dan

[Papa]

Brief update: most of the car is complete in some form or fashion except for the aesthetics. I need to do carpet and killmat, finish the audio system, install hinges and windshield and so forth and I’m eager to get that all done. I’ve been tied up doing adventure ridding in the Mojave and I have two new projects that cropped up that I have to deal with. My 97 Jeep TJ needs a new clutch (tomorrow I suppose). My 550 threw a rod (I think). That damn N63 engine. Love my beemer but that engine is apparently hot garbage. I think I’m gonna make it a feemer by dropping in a gen 2 coyote with a terminator x max and Holley 13” pro dash. Why you say? Cause not many have done it and having this as a 24 hours of lemons car sounds like too much stupid fun. Lot of words to say I’m still poking away at things but all my hobbies are keeping me busy.

Have fun with the journey everyone.

Dan

Dan,

Sorry to hear about the 550. I absolutely loved mine until it wasn't in warranty and that's when I made the difficult decision to let it go. I hope you can do something with the car other than send it to the crusher.

Dave

[Blitzboy54]

I love the idea of shoving an oversized incorrect engine in just about anything. A Coyote Beemer sounds effing awesome!!

[PNWTim]

Is it a Feemer or a Beyote?

[danmas]

I love the idea of shoving an oversized incorrect engine in just about anything. A Coyote Beemer sounds effing awesome!!
I have to say that you are such a talented builder and encouraging voice for this forum. It’s great to see what you can do and even better the way you encourage others. Thanks for being a real leader in this community.

[danmas]

Is this bad? Asking for a friend…
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225472&d=1770885660

[Papa]

Is this bad? Asking for a friend…
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225472&d=1770885660

That's one of those new low-friction clutches.