Transmission mating question - looking for advice

[mmklaxer]

I assembled the Coyote/TKX this afternoon up until the final install of the TKX itself.

I read somewhere to NOT use the bolt to suck in the transmission to the bellhousing, so I stopped when I hit interference. I tried a few different orientations with the install, and I can feel when I pass the clutch splines. One time I ran into interference there, and I was over an inch away from the bellhousing.

It appears that I'm hanging up on the flange that slides inside the bellhousing itself. It has a chamfer that fits in the bellhousing, but the flange itself is tight. I didn't want to use the bolts to work it in until I checked with you fine folks to see if that's normal. In the picture below you can see I'm about 3/8" between tranny and bellhousing - same as the flange that fits int he hole of the bellhousing.

Am i safe to snug up with the bolts?

182081

[CraigS]

I haven't worked on one of these specifically but I really like that flange into the bellhousing idea. OTOH, what I notice in your pic is that the trans flange/ears is not parallel to the bellhousing mount surface. Realizing this may just be because you took your hands off the trans to run the camera, still they need to be parallel. You are in far enough that the input shaft is in the clutch disc splines fine. Looks like you are about at the point where the input needs to line up w/ the pilot bearing in the crankshaft. Is the bearing there and is it the correct one?

[mmklaxer]

The pilot bearing is in and the right one. I test fit that before installing it - good fit.

I tried moving the aft end of the transmission around in case it was misaligned. Thing is solid. The transmission will rotate, but not move around. It appears lined up as it should.

[EZ$]

I'm probably the last person that you should take recommendations from, but could it be as simple as the engine needing to be rotated by the crankshaft pulley, specifically the nut that holds it in place, (sorry I don't know the correct term), to get the splines of the input shaft on the trans in line with the clutch disc as you press the trans forward? Had to do that when I first mated mine together, and it slid into place with no effort.

[mikeinatlanta]

Am i safe to snug up with the bolts?
182081

No. If this is the first time mating these parts up it's a very risky move. You may get lucky though.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Did you use a clutch alignment tool when installing the pressure plate with disc. If not you may have a slight misalignment which would allow the splines to mate with the disc but not let the input go into the pilot bearing smoothly.

Semi-related topic...I see that you're using the Tremec aluminum bell housing. I assembled a Coyote/aluminum bell/TKX combo a while back and discovered after the fact that there have been instances of the flywheel interfering with the inside of the bellhousing which locks up the engine. According to Mike Forte this has been an ongoing problem; unfortunately I wasn't aware until after the engine and trans were already installed in a Coupe and the engine wouldn't turn over :mad:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173953&d=1666279582

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173954&d=1666279636

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173955&d=1666279665

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173952&d=1666279549

Just giving you a heads up now to make sure the engine turns over freely with the bellhousing in place.

Good luck,
Jeff

[Railroad]

My flywheel also made contact with the alum Ford bell housing. Stage 1 Coyote, Forte flywheel and clutch, Ford bell housing.
I used a die grinder with a burr to knock down the high contact points and all is well.

Good luck,

[mmklaxer]

Did you use a clutch alignment tool when installing the pressure plate with disc. If not you may have a slight misalignment which would allow the splines to mate with the disc but not let the input go into the pilot bearing smoothly.

Semi-related topic...I see that you're using the Tremec aluminum bell housing. I assembled a Coyote/aluminum bell/TKX combo a while back and discovered after the fact that there have been instances of the flywheel interfering with the inside of the bellhousing which locks up the engine. According to Mike Forte this has been an ongoing problem; unfortunately I wasn't aware until after the engine and trans were already installed in a Coupe and the engine wouldn't turn over :mad:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173953&d=1666279582

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173954&d=1666279636

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173955&d=1666279665

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173952&d=1666279549

Just giving you a heads up now to make sure the engine turns over freely with the bellhousing in place.

Good luck,
Jeff

Yes, I did use the alignment tool. Also had the same interference in a couple spots. Ground down until I could rotated the flywheel without issue prior to installing the clutch disk

[mmklaxer]

Next up - call to tremec

[mburger]

Pull the clutch fork back with a pry bar and a buddy to release any pressure on the plate, then slightly twist the transmission while pushing it in.

[Mastertech5]

Had the same problem with my installation on a LS3. First time is always tough. The clutch splines are most likely not lined up with the input shaft. In a Hot Rod I could kneel on the floor and wiggle the crap out of it and it would slowly creep in. A helper could turn the engine slightly as mentioned above to help alignment. One bolt in the trans to help, not tight, to act as an alignment pin may help.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Had the same problem with my installation on a LS3. First time is always tough. The clutch splines are most likely not lined up with the input shaft. In a Hot Rod I could kneel on the floor and wiggle the crap out of it and it would slowly creep in. A helper could turn the engine slightly as mentioned above to help alignment. One bolt in the trans to help, not tight, to act as an alignment pin may help.

Think is the advantage of using alignment dowels. I use 3, upper passenger side has very little clearance to remove dowl. Between these & mburger's suggestion reduced pressure on the disc & good alignment of the transmission one person can usually fit the transmission to the bellhousing. Important don't try to force it by using the mounting bolts to snug up the transmission.

[mmklaxer]

Thanks all - more to follow!

[mburger]

Think is the advantage of using alignment dowels. I use 3, upper passenger side has very little clearance to remove dowl. Between these & mburger's suggestion reduced pressure on the disc & good alignment of the transmission one person can usually fit the transmission to the bellhousing. Important don't try to force it by using the mounting bolts to snug up the transmission.

Agree, and if working alone, you can use a heavy duty zip tie, or similar to hold the clutch fork back. You don’t need to fully depress the arm, just enough so that the clutch disc can move and the transmission should pop right in.

[mmklaxer]

Back at it this weekend again!

Talk to Tremec and Forte. Tremec rep said the transmission was likely not within .005 concentricity with the clutch splines and pilot bearing, and might require offset dowels to center the bellhousing. Forte agreed that could be the case, but wasn't overly favorable of the offset dowels for a coyote. Forte provided the same recommendation as some of you above: actuate the clutch fork while inserting the transmission to free it up a bit during install.

I disassembled everything down to the flywheel just to be sure nothing was damaged during assembly and to check the bellhousing runout.

I performed a runout measurement with a dial indicator and came up with the following values: .000, .007, .010, .002. repeated both times around. That puts me right on the edge of tolerance with a .005 limit.

Will be trying the assembly again this afternoon. hoping for some good results.

[mburger]

When you were at the stage when you had the transmission up at the back of the engine, did you try to engage the clutch to release the pressure on the clutch plate?

[mmklaxer]

When you were at the stage when you had the transmission up at the back of the engine, did you try to engage the clutch to release the pressure on the clutch plate?

Success! And that's what did it. I held the rear of the transmission with the splines engaged and in the pilot bearing. A buddy worked the clutch fork to relieve and stress on the clutch plate and it popped right in. Victory!

With that installed I wrapped up starter install, Forte slave set up (needed to cut ~ 1/4" off the plunger to give some play on the fork), and transitioned from "assembly pallet" to a cradle to await install.

Thanks to all that chimed in!

182383

[TTimmy]

I had the same experience as mmklaxer and thought I would share my solution for the benefit of those that come behind us searching this thread. I am using the same engine/trans/bellhousing setup from Forte.

After being unable to fully seat the trans into the bellhousing I disassembled things to see what went awry. After confirming proper assembly, clutch alignment, etc. I found myself quite puzzled. Eventually I tried to seat just the bellhousing onto the trans and found that was my issue. The two parts would not properly seat due to some imperfections in the in the mating surface of the bellhousing. I hit it with some emery cloth until it would slide together smoothly. In all fairness to the manufacturer, I may have been the one that dinged things up while trying to manhandle the bits together by myself.

As a side note, I also found it was necessary to file down one of the washers in order to get the billet slave mount to properly attach. The washer was interfering with one of the casting bosses on the trans.