Temporary rust protection for steel

[narly1]

Looking for a readily available (remember I'm in Canada LOL), brush-on product that I can use to temporarily protect steel against rusting, to be cleaned off at a later date prior to painting.

I'm not looking for something to use for the long-term or outside in the elements.

I'm thinking boiled linseed oil.

Any other comments/suggestions?

Earl

[GoDadGo]

Can you get Birchwood Casey Barricade up there?

https://www.academy.com/p/birchwood-casey%C2%AE-barricade%C2%AE-rust-protection-for-firearms

I use it all sorts of metal items, especially on my shotguns guns, and it works very well.

[JohnK]

Check out Fluid Film. It's a lanolin-based rust protection coating.

[narly1]

Thanks all for the suggestions.

I have also been told that the worst I can expect if I do nothing is some mild surface rust that easily knocks off when the frame is sand-blast prepped for paint.

Earl

[Jim1855]

You could use car wax. Works great for cast iron table saw tables and tools.
Otherwise, I use Cleanzoil for guns and raw metal parts.
Not sure which would be easier to clean off and then paint over.
Jim

[David Williamson]

boiled linseed oil is just messy sticky stuff. We used it on industrial gas turbine and steam turbines to help seal metal to metal split lines and I would avoid it on anything you need to clean up.
David W

[J R Jones]

I have done restorations and purchased used parts for projects, so rust is a reoccurring issue. There are several products on the market containing phosphoric acid (a component in Coke). My favorite is Metal Prep by POR:

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-40204-Metal-Prep-quart/dp/B00J5940JE/ref=asc_df_B00J5940JE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312337337469&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16149623369510194875&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019008&hvtargid=pla-568814719862&psc=1

Metal prep is a water based product and removal is accomplished with water and a rag. With three projects underway, something is always waiting and susceptible to rust. I spray the steel bits with Metal Prep. If rust is present, it turns black; if not it becomes a white film. In any case it is diluted or removed with water. I find that thin application does not inhibit welding, and it actually is beneficial for primer application.
Available in spray bottles.
BTW phosphoric acid will eat cast iron if is wet for a prolonged period. We used to have a barrel for part immersion and over night soak.
jim

[mikeinatlanta]

Suggest a motorcycle product in a spray can. Maxima Chain Wax. Goes on wet and dries to a nice film.

[narly1]

Suggest a motorcycle product in a spray can. Maxima Chain Wax. Goes on wet and dries to a nice film.

I know of that product and it's good stuff. I used it on my freshly machined engine block while I waited for the rest of the build components to show up.

This time around it's the frame. I ordered it not powder coated for several reasons:

1. I want to do all the rivet hole drilling and panel fitting first.

2. I might be welding on some extra brackets.

3. I want to clean up the weld joints and spatter as necessary.

4.I want the frame to be a different colour other than black.

Earl

[JohnK]

In this specific situation I don't think I'd bother with anything. It's only going to get a minor amount of surface rust as long is it's not left out in the elements and your coating shop is going to blast it before PC which will remove any minor surface rust.

[narly1]

In this specific situation I don't think I'd bother with anything.

Ya that was pretty much the conclusion that I came to around post #4 in this thread after speaking with a fellow FFR'er who took the same approach.

Earl

[Alan_C]

I suggest using Master Coat Metal Prep. I brush it on and then you need to neutralize it with water. I wipe the applied area with wet paper towels until the solution is removed. It leaves a blue gold tint on the metal which shows the zinc protective coating. The protection is good for up to a year.
https://nomorerust.com/store/metal-prep-rust-remover-products/10-mastercoat-metal-prep-rust-remover.html
POR 15 has similar products and there is PICKLEX as well.
https://www.theruststore.com/Picklex-20-16-oz-Spray-P333C106.aspx
I personally like to go over the areas protected with my DA and 80 grit prior to applying 2K epoxy.

[ggunter]

Don't know how long you are planning to wait to finish the metal but WD in WD40 stands for water dispersant. I have used it for years to wipe down metal to keep it from rusting and it lasts quite a while. It's cheap too.

[AC Bill]

If you plan on painting it eventually, I would stay away from anything that contains wax or oils. Your painter will go nuts with fish eyes, even if you think it's 100% cleaned off.
As you mention, leave it be, and the painter can prep the surface so much easier than of it has been coated with something. My other choice would be to paint it with a primer sealer, that is compatible with the paint your painter will be using.

[Windsor]

Looking for a readily available (remember I'm in Canada LOL), brush-on product that I can use to temporarily protect steel against rusting, to be cleaned off at a later date prior to painting.

I'm not looking for something to use for the long-term or outside in the elements.

I'm thinking boiled linseed oil.

Any other comments/suggestions?

Earl

BLO is really more for woodworking (e.g. WW2-era rifles) and horribly annoying to work with. It has the side benefit of burning your garage/shop down if you aren't careful. The discarded rags/towels can self-ignite in the trash can/rag bin if the circumstances are right -- the curing process is exothermic.

If you feel the need to anti-rust coat steel with something, just glob a rag with whatever light-ish oil you can get your hands on (sewing machine oil, generic mineral oil, gun oil, etc) and make one pass at wiping down the raw steel.

Of course, "gun oil" may not be as easy to find in Ontario as it is here in my neck of the woods. :)