Front upper control arm hitting frame

[Real Time]

Hi all,

I've done some searches, but the results were a little old so perhaps there is some new found info.

My Driver side upper control arm hits the frame where the "F" panel will mount.

It looked to me like this would likely be an issue, so I snugged the nuts on the pivot arm prior to instal because there simply would be NO clearance to do so afterwards.
You can see in the pics, I am probably les than 1/16" from mating the arm to the frame when the nut comes in contact with the 1" tubing.

I see others have put shims to fill the gap. Some stated this could be issues due to changing the geometry.
My buddy "Ray From Long Island" compared it to his resent build and see's that the 1" tubing on mine is mounted about 1/4" outward than on his. That little bit certainly made the difference.

You can see where the nut comes in contact with the frame. I turned it so the center of the flat of the nut is what touches. It looks like grinding about a 1/8" groove in the nut at that contact point would give all the clearance I need.

I'd love to hear any input others may have.

Thanks in advance.

[Real Time]

Hi all,

I've done some searches, but the results were a little old so perhaps there is some new found info.

My Driver side upper control arm hits the frame where the "F" panel will mount.

It looked to me like this would likely be an issue, so I snugged the nuts on the pivot arm prior to instal because there simply would be NO clearance to do so afterwards.
You can see in the pics, I am probably les than 1/16" from mating the arm to the frame when the nut comes in contact with the 1" tubing.

I see others have put shims to fill the gap. Some stated this could be issues due to changing the geometry.
My buddy "Ray From Long Island" compared it to his resent build and see's that the 1" tubing on mine is mounted about 1/4" outward than on his. That little bit certainly made the difference.

You can see where the nut comes in contact with the frame. I turned it so the center of the flat of the nut is what touches. It looks like grinding about a 1/8" groove in the nut at that contact point would give all the clearance I need.

I'd love to hear any input others may have.

Thanks in advance.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Put a hard washer between the cross shaft and chassis at both the front and rear bolts. The difference will be made up when it's aligned.

Jeff

[Real Time]

Put a hard washer between the cross shaft and chassis at both the front and rear bolts. The difference will be made up when it's aligned.

Jeff

Thanks for the response Jeff.

I appreciate the clarity regarding the alignment.

George

[MB750]

I had a similar issue, but not as bad. Maybe the jig back at FFR is bending.

[i.e.427]

Something has changed in the way they are setting up and welding the front of the chassis. The f-panels fit like garbage too.

Frank

[42Bfast]

Recalling processes (from my past life) in the aircraft airframe manufacturing business, All of our critical tooling (Fit, form, or function) had to have a periodic inspection against a master template (newer computer designed programs were checked against the master file using lasers and theodolite locations). Frequency could be based either on time or quantity of ship sets produced, usually customer specific.
If any of our facilities experienced a significant event, such as an earthquake, it triggered an inspection.

Two different worlds with different requirements, tolerances, and specifications so the comparison is probably invalid but things can move. (If you ever wondered why airplanes are so insanely expensive, this is one of the reasons)

[Fixit]

It's been going on for awhile... reading your post tripped a memory... (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-quot-New-quot-40-Watt-Garage!&p=333508&viewfull=1#post333508)