Sticky gas pedal

[FLFrank35]

Anyone else have this issue?…

It takes a bit of force to press the pedal and then it gives and I end up revving the engine unintentionally. It’s just the standard pedal that came with the kit. I shortened the cable and greased it up. I was considering disassembling it and lubing the inside of the joint.

Any suggestions?
Thanks

[Jim1855]

Might want to pull the cable or whatever linkage you have and first test the pedal. If that moves freely then I'd leave that alone. Start looking for the other potential binding areas. If things move freely then it's probably something else. Test each movement independently then start combining the potential areas where it may be binding.

If a cable system you might want to disconnect the carb or throttle body and the accel pedal and test the cable. Have a helper pull in one direction and you pull the return. I don't know how much internal drag there is in a cable but it shouldn't be much, it needs to be smooth and consistent through the complete range of travel or at least within the range used.

Jim

[J R Jones]

Frank,
You may be fighting a return spring. I drove a sixties Ford Police cruiser with a 427 side oiler that had terrible throttle effort.

You may be fighting geometry.
If your throttle lever is laid forward, almost flat, cable effort would be initially hard to pull
If your throttle lever is perpendicular and the cable pulls it at 90 degrees, the pull effort would be minimized.

If, like every EFI with a cable, you had a grooved sector wheel on the throttle shaft, the cable would wrap around the sector wheel. Pull effort and opening rate would be light and consistent.
jim

181382

181383

[Papa]

Anyone else have this issue?…

It takes a bit of force to press the pedal and then it gives and I end up revving the engine unintentionally. It’s just the standard pedal that came with the kit. I shortened the cable and greased it up. I was considering disassembling it and lubing the inside of the joint.

Any suggestions?
Thanks

Are you running a Sniper EFI by chance? This is a common complaint with the Sniper and there is a very simple fix.

Dave

[Ted G]

Forte's linkage is the way to go.....

[Danomatic]

Yeah, mechanical linkage is the way to go. Cables break and usually at the worse possible time.

[FLFrank35]

Might want to pull the cable or whatever linkage you have and first test the pedal. If that moves freely then I'd leave that alone. Start looking for the other potential binding areas. If things move freely then it's probably something else. Test each movement independently then start combining the potential areas where it may be binding.

If a cable system you might want to disconnect the carb or throttle body and the accel pedal and test the cable. Have a helper pull in one direction and you pull the return. I don't know how much internal drag there is in a cable but it shouldn't be much, it needs to be smooth and consistent through the complete range of travel or at least within the range used.

Jim

Thanks Jim. I initially did separate each part…the Sniper’s return spring seems smooth, the pedal doesn’t seem to bind, and I shortened the cable and greased it up. But I may need to go at it again.
Thanks again for the tip!

[FLFrank35]

Are you running a Sniper EFI by chance? This is a common complaint with the Sniper and there is a very simple fix.

Dave

Yes, I am running a Sniper EFI. What’s the fix?

[FLFrank35]

Frank,
You may be fighting a return spring. I drove a sixties Ford Police cruiser with a 427 side oiler that had terrible throttle effort.

You may be fighting geometry.
If your throttle lever is laid forward, almost flat, cable effort would be initially hard to pull
If your throttle lever is perpendicular and the cable pulls it at 90 degrees, the pull effort would be minimized.

If, like every EFI with a cable, you had a grooved sector wheel on the throttle shaft, the cable would wrap around the sector wheel. Pull effort and opening rate would be light and consistent.
jim

181382

181383

Ok, good information. I’d say it is laying flat at the start. ’ll look at the geometry closer and see what I can do.
Thanks!

[Papa]

Yes, I am running a Sniper EFI. What’s the fix?

For the Sniper, the problem is where the cable connects to the linkage cam. If the cable is pulling level, then it has to use more force to get it to move initially. Once is gets past a certain point, the effort needed is reduced and you know what that does. The fix is to relocate the connection on a small lever to change the effort through the beginning of the curve. Holley sells a lever kit, but you can easily make one.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_efi_service_components/parts/20-16


https://youtu.be/yyvTWv0Iss0

[FLFrank35]

Geometry...I wish I paid more attention to it in school. Papa was right; I needed the extension bracket. Got it for less than $20, installed it in 5 mins and it works! The pressure on the pedal is light, even and smooth throughout it's range of motion :D

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/icons/icon14.png https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/icons/icon14.png Thanks Papa, and everyone who offered help!!

181579

[J R Jones]

FLF, another associated concern with assembled cable systems.
Once upon a time I was in the fire protection industry; cable systems were used for thermal links and chemical release. The cables were stainless and most connections were with a cable loop that went back into the clamp housing.
In all cable clamp applications the set screw never made contact with the cable. There was a ball bearing between the set screw and cable to lessen the likelihood of cable strand damage from set screw twist and torque.
Your photo suggests your cable clamp screw clamps directly on the cable. At a minimum make sure the set screw does not have a sharp edge or teeth that would cut cable strands.
OEM applications have cable ends cast or soldered onto the cable.
jim

[CaptB]

Forte's linkage is the way to go.....

What Ted Said.

[FLFrank35]

FLF, another associated concern with assembled cable systems.
Once upon a time I was in the fire protection industry; cable systems were used for thermal links and chemical release. The cables were stainless and most connections were with a cable loop that went back into the clamp housing.
In all cable clamp applications the set screw never made contact with the cable. There was a ball bearing between the set screw and cable to lessen the likelihood of cable strand damage from set screw twist and torque.
Your photo suggests your cable clamp screw clamps directly on the cable. At a minimum make sure the set screw does not have a sharp edge or teeth that would cut cable strands.
OEM applications have cable ends cast or soldered onto the cable.
jim

Jim, you make a good point. The linkage/cable I used is the one that was included with the kit so I hadn't given it much thought, but I was surprised to see that the throttle cable is held in place with a set screw.
Thanks for your insight, I'll take another look at it.
Thanks!