Recommendations on a Remote Oil Breather Tank

[MPTech]

I just picked up my new 347 SBF from my builder last week and he suggested to add a Remote Oil Breather Tank in my roadster when I install the new engine. He plumbed an AN fitting on the back of each valve cover for this purpose. My old (basically stock) 302 didn't have any such provision, assuming this is similar function to the stock PCV valve I had. I searched all of the car, Amazon, eBay sites and similar looking products, range anywhere from $20 to $300+. I understand this relieves crankcase blow-by pressure and allows the engine to "breath" better.
What features should I be looking for and/or can someone provide a link to what they recommend?

These features look desirable to me: (but I'm really guessing, based on no prior knowledge)
> (2) inlet ports (-10AN)
> 1 quart capacity
> non-recirculating / vented system
> bottom ball valve (for easy draining, prefer not to un-screw collection can to drain)
> quality mounting bracket & hardware

I saw generic units, inexpensive brands (Evil Energy), and many expensive / name brands (Canton, Moroso, JAZ, Aerospace Components, JEGs, Earl's, Kevko, etc)
Are the name brands (typically much more expensive), worth the additional cost? I'm willing to pay it if it is worth the money, but don't want to over-spend if not needed.

What do I really need here?

Thanks Guys!

[GFX2043mtu]

Not knocking companies like Moroso and Canton but it’s a no pressure catch can. The regular stuff works fine. If it were a dry sump can or accumulator then yes spend the money. But you can save some here and still get very nice parts. I have the summit (sum-300105) on on my car. Use spacers and put it on the firewall. The kit has everything and is very nice for the $.

181261181262

[SJDave]

I went with a Moroso, I think I paid around $160 for it. I saved money on the hose using just fuel rated EPDM instead of running AN fittings and braided hose. I think if I can remember these are Fragola 1/2 NPT to barb. Bought some pinch type clamps instead of hose clamps, much cleaner look. I put a Wagner PCV valve after the catch can which works great with my 347, no more stalling coming up to stop signs.

[boat737]

Also did the Moroso. Mounted it to the X-frame, plumbed it from the PCV to the unit, to the intake vacuum port.

[narly1]

Sorry to jack the thread a bit but can somebody school me as to why a catch/breather can is needed if a properly installed and functioning PCV system is in place?

Earl

[Fman]

Another Moroso install, and it does actually work and accumulate oil that would be going into your intake manifold. I think it is worth the effort and cost to install one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168359&d=1655694080

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168360&d=1655694080

[Fman]

Sorry to jack the thread a bit but can somebody school me as to why a catch/breather can is needed if a properly installed and functioning PCV system is in place?

Earl

Oil will get sucked into your intake manifold, the catch can eliminates this from happening. I also have baffled valve covers and still accumulating oil in my catch can.

[narly1]

Oil will get sucked into your intake manifold

But why if the engine and PCV system are functioning properly?

The PCV system should only be venting oily vapour into the manifold, should it not?

Earl

[MPTech]

Sorry to jack the thread a bit but can somebody school me as to why a catch/breather can is needed if a properly installed and functioning PCV system is in place?

Earl

I'm learning a bit as well Earl, no worries.

From what I've read and watched a couple YouTubes on, the PCV system is designed to remove the pressure and with it, the oil vapors (this is good), but for the tree-huggers, it got routed back into the intake (good for the environment, bad for your car). The oil catch can is designed to separate and remove oil and water, before returning it back to your intake.

This helped a bit.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bXjtOzYJfQ&t=15s&ab_channel=BoostedJohn

[Papa]

Sorry to jack the thread a bit but can somebody school me as to why a catch/breather can is needed if a properly installed and functioning PCV system is in place?

Earl

In my case, it's because there isn't a clean way to run a closed PCV system with stacks. I have breathers on both valve covers, but get a bit of oil haze on the passenger side. To eliminate that, I am using an inexpensive oil catch can connected to the passenger breather and the output vented through a filter with no return to the engine.

PWR FEVER Upgraded Baffled Oil Catch Can Kit Aluminum Oil Reservoir Tank with 3/8" Strengthened NBR Fuel Line Black 400ml https://a.co/d/81G3o99

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172680&d=1663542677

[Railroad]

I have catch cans on 3 of my vehicles, still need to add to the MkIV Coyote. A tip that some might find helpful, buy a catch can with a drain valve. I have a J & L on my truck 3.5 ecoboost. It would fill the can quite often while new. I added a quarter turn ball valve, clear hose and catch bottle. Easy to drain and easy to dispose of contents.
Just the valve will work, if the drain hose does not look up to show car specs.
Engines running intercoolers can avoid coating the intercooler fins with the sludge, which will get cooked on and reduce cooling effects, by using catch cans.

[Ted G]

Plus they look cool!

[BrewCityCobra]

So...since these cars are effectively emissions exempt anyways - why run any type of PCV system at all (for those of use with carbs)? Wouldn't a pair of breathers work?

My current setup has a breather on the driver side and a tube going back to the carburetor on the passenger side - I'm starting to think I may want to consider a catch can for the passenger side then.

[Ted G]

So...since these cars are effectively emissions exempt anyways - why run any type of PCV system at all (for those of use with carbs)? Wouldn't a pair of breathers work?

My current setup has a breather on the driver side and a tube going back to the carburetor on the passenger side - I'm starting to think I may want to consider a catch can for the passenger side then.

For us in California, we have to have the PCV into the carb and another hose into the air filter (from what I'm told as I haven't registered yet). My engine builder says that using this setup is actually good for the engine as a little bit of oil into the carb helps lube the top of the engine. I know this may help the carbon build up, so I am also now considering a catch can like Fman did.

[BrewCityCobra]

For us in California, we have to have the PCV into the carb and another hose into the air filter (from what I'm told as I haven't registered yet). My engine builder says that using this setup is actually good for the engine as a little bit of oil into the carb helps lube the top of the engine. I know this may help the carbon build up, so I am also now considering a catch can like Fman did.

That is good to know.

So am I to take away from all this that the ideal situation (for those of use running SBF's with carbs) is to actually run the PCV back to the carb but to include the catch can in that line? That is preferred over no PCV run at all?

[Norm B]

Here's what my set up looks like with a Sniper unit. PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover. Line runs to an air oil separator and then to the base of the Sniper unit. Inlet/breather on the driver side valve cover connected the the air cleaner inside the filtered area. The diagram shows the air flow pattern through the engine. The oil stays cleaner because the blow by contaminants are constantly being pulled out of the crankcase and replaced with clean fresh air.

HTH

Norm

[Railroad]

Once you empty one of those catch cans, you will be glad you are not running it through your engine.
You may notice a lot of the catch can content is water. It probably has a lot to do with humidity.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

So...since these cars are effectively emissions exempt anyways - why run any type of PCV system at all (for those of use with carbs)? Wouldn't a pair of breathers work?

My current setup has a breather on the driver side and a tube going back to the carburetor on the passenger side - I'm starting to think I may want to consider a catch can for the passenger side then.

Same in NC, no annual inspection at all. Total government interference was an initial inspection to check for stolen parts. 5 minutes of looking, 1/2 hour of BS'ing about the build & done with a signoff to get my Title papers & Antique Vehicle Plates. Additional benefits are running a custom 1965 plate & limited property tax. So glad I am not still in Jersey.

Initially ran a two hose system into a Catch can on the firewall. Never ran a line into the intake. It collected very little oil so I pulled the hoses & swapped in a push in breathers on each valve cover. Have had no oil puking onto the covers. Car has been running since Feb 2015.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181347&d=1678387710
Early system - Catch Can, Summit Racing house brand, was located inside the square.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181349&d=1678389147
Currant with last addon so far dual brake reservoirs.

[bobl]

Sorry to jack the thread a bit but can somebody school me as to why a catch/breather can is needed if a properly installed and functioning PCV system is in place?

Earl

Just my 2 cents worth. A traditional pushrod engine should not need a breather tank if it’s built and vented properly. Most problems of blowing oil from the breathers is caused by insufficient baffling in the valve covers. After market valve covers have pretty poor baffles, if any. I always weld a plate below the breather with just a small gap around the edges to allow venting. Also, a PCV does nothing under high loads as there is minimal vacuum to hold it open. Late model engines with direct injection or boost usually have some form of catch tank to prevent oil from being ingested back into the intake which is problematic for the injectors. I’ve built many high horsepower N/A and boosted marine engines and never had to run a catch tank. If they were blowing oil out I was replacing pistons….With that said, it certainly won’t hurt to add a breather tank.

[Hoooper]

But why if the engine and PCV system are functioning properly?

The PCV system should only be venting oily vapour into the manifold, should it not?

Earl

Oil and oily vapor are one in the same. Oily vapor is bad for your engine in that it reduces the effective octane rating once that vapor gets into the cylinders, and it causes carbon buildup on everything that it gets on. The vapor also condenses on the "cool" intake and collects into just oil, which eventually runs down to be drawn into the cylinders (same issue as vapor). If you pull the intake off a car with PCV you almost always will find an oil slick in the intake downstream of where the PCV return is. With a PCV system splashing out the big bucks for a high quality separator and hopefully also nicely baffled valve covers really cuts down on the oil getting to the intake. I use a mightymouse catch can. Lots of catch cans you can find online are not effective at condensing oil out of the air and collecting it.


So...since these cars are effectively emissions exempt anyways - why run any type of PCV system at all (for those of use with carbs)? Wouldn't a pair of breathers work?

My current setup has a breather on the driver side and a tube going back to the carburetor on the passenger side - I'm starting to think I may want to consider a catch can for the passenger side then.

I dont think it matters too much for the amount of miles that most of these cars get but PCV is actually very good for your engine longevity compared to passive venting. PCV keeps the crankcase full of clean fresh air which keeps the oil in better condition. Passive venting vents at a much lower rate and allows the buildup of blowby to be the venting source, which in a simplified explanation the blowby gases, unburnt fuel, etc. mix with the oil, causing the oil to become more acidic and break down faster (sludge, seal wear...). PCV systems are considered to be a major contributor to why modern engines can often go hundreds of thousands of miles and still be in fine condition without ever having a rebuild. Benefit for a car that only gets a couple thousand miles on it between oil changes is probably much smaller than it is for a typical daily driver.

[JohnK]

Not much to add here beyond what's already been said, other than to point out that fuel hose or vacuum hose is not suitable for PCV systems. Especially if you're installing a closed loop system to meet state requirements (like CA) they will (in theory at least) check that a suitable hose has been installed. For my gen2 coyote, I used this hose from Gates (https://www.amazon.com/Gates-27006-Fuel-Line-Hose/dp/B000CRFIYY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=231JLG7KMCED7&keywords=gates+1%2F2%22+PCV+hose&qid=1678467302&sprefix=gates+1%2F2+pcv+hose%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-2).