AC Bill
12-15-2011, 12:09 PM
Reading another recent thread posted on here regarding a member attempting to set up his mechanical throttle pedal linkage, vs pedal height, reminds me of an issue I have not yet resolved..
This issue of setting the throttle pedal up so that it is even with the brake pedal when the brake is fully depressed, (to allow for heel toe) has haunted me from the get go. I just can't wrap my head around what adjustments I need to do to correct this.
It has made for some, lets say "interesting" starts, when stopped on a hill..:o Either I roll back, stall it, or take off with tires burning, and engine screaming..:eek:
Currently I have my Russ Thompson throttle pedal and the FFR cable set up, so that when the pedal is fully depressed, I reach WOT, when released it returns to idle. Now if I lower the entire pedal down further, via the RT frame mount, I doubt I will be able to obtain WOT any longer. The stock 302 EFI throttle body lever appears to require approx 2-1/2" of travel to go from idle to WOT, so the cable will no longer be able to pull it back far enough, if the pedal is lowered. Basically it would bottom out before WOT is reached.
I can't see how I could simply shorten the cable, as this would prevent the TB lever from returning to idle. As well, I suspect it may make for an extremely touchy throttle. There is really no adjustments that can be done at the throttle body end that I can see.
The RT pedal arm, is not one that can be easily bent, or reformed, otherwise perhaps I could adjust the arm itself. Now I may be able to re-drill the pivot point hole on the arm in a different spot, so the arc of the pedal is different, or perhaps add some extension to the cable attachment point? Anyone try this on the RT pedal?
As for the brake pedal, (stock arm modified), it really can't be raised up further, as the frame member above it would limit this. I have the adjustable M/cylinder push rod, and it is currently nicely set up to activate the brake light switch, yet not slam back into the frame member when released. Currently, I have the pedal set even with the clutch pedal.
Can anyone paint a clear picture (or post one:)) for me, as to how I can make the adjustments with the set up I have? I know there must be a way to do this, but my brain gets foggy whenever I try to envision how to make the needed adjustments..Hoping someone has managed to get it figured out..
This issue of setting the throttle pedal up so that it is even with the brake pedal when the brake is fully depressed, (to allow for heel toe) has haunted me from the get go. I just can't wrap my head around what adjustments I need to do to correct this.
It has made for some, lets say "interesting" starts, when stopped on a hill..:o Either I roll back, stall it, or take off with tires burning, and engine screaming..:eek:
Currently I have my Russ Thompson throttle pedal and the FFR cable set up, so that when the pedal is fully depressed, I reach WOT, when released it returns to idle. Now if I lower the entire pedal down further, via the RT frame mount, I doubt I will be able to obtain WOT any longer. The stock 302 EFI throttle body lever appears to require approx 2-1/2" of travel to go from idle to WOT, so the cable will no longer be able to pull it back far enough, if the pedal is lowered. Basically it would bottom out before WOT is reached.
I can't see how I could simply shorten the cable, as this would prevent the TB lever from returning to idle. As well, I suspect it may make for an extremely touchy throttle. There is really no adjustments that can be done at the throttle body end that I can see.
The RT pedal arm, is not one that can be easily bent, or reformed, otherwise perhaps I could adjust the arm itself. Now I may be able to re-drill the pivot point hole on the arm in a different spot, so the arc of the pedal is different, or perhaps add some extension to the cable attachment point? Anyone try this on the RT pedal?
As for the brake pedal, (stock arm modified), it really can't be raised up further, as the frame member above it would limit this. I have the adjustable M/cylinder push rod, and it is currently nicely set up to activate the brake light switch, yet not slam back into the frame member when released. Currently, I have the pedal set even with the clutch pedal.
Can anyone paint a clear picture (or post one:)) for me, as to how I can make the adjustments with the set up I have? I know there must be a way to do this, but my brain gets foggy whenever I try to envision how to make the needed adjustments..Hoping someone has managed to get it figured out..