Don't be me! Do this project BEFORE you close the footbox and install the body

[nucjd19]

Well I had a life lesson today. While I was building my Roadster I thought " Oh that gas pedal with the kit will be just fine and I have no need to upgrade". After driving for about 1000 miles I have realized it is not the best for my foot size and was not positioned the best. IMO So... I called Mark at Breeze who has an awesome pedal he sells and discussed with him. He said " Yea.... you can install it in a finished car but I would recruit your youngest child to climb in there to do it." So I bought his pedal. As usual it is freaking beautiful and a work of art. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180919&d=1677538649
I have had it a while but was finding anything else to do than install it knowing how much of a pain it was going to be. So....Today was the day.

First thing first: I am not sure I could have done this without my lift to put the footbox at a good position or suffer more cussing than I had already did.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180926&d=1677539426

As you can see the old pedal was tucked to the right. The action was fine with my forte throttle linkage but the peddle had slop in it laterally I could not get rid of.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180920&d=1677538649

My 6'3" height gave me an arm span to sneak my hands in there and unbolt everything.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180918&d=1677538649

Here it is installed. And Oh WOW it is butter smooth used in conjunction with the Forte mechanical throttle linkage. It is also much easier to use compared with the supplied pedal and in a better position throughout the peddle throw.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180917&d=1677538649

So in summary it reminded me of someone trying to build a model ship in a glass bottle. It is doable just like Mark had said but I should have installed that thing when the body was off and the footbox was open. Learn from my pain....

[john42]

Ya I joined you and did mine after…. Removed the seats and steering wheel so my 15 year old could get in there and help with the install!

[nucjd19]

Ya I joined you and did mine after…. Removed the seats and steering wheel so my 15 year old could get in there and help with the install!HA!!!
Luckily I have adjustable seats and a removable steering wheel. That helped massively!

[mladen]

Is that pedal by Breeze? I haven't looked in a while but I think he sold (or used to) the ones made by Russ Thompson.

[egchewy79]

Yes, Mark sells the RT pedal. Nucjd19, did you use a roll pin? That’s probably hard to tap in upside down

[CABulldog]

Yeah I was talking to Mark when I first started getting parts last year, I waited for this to be released. So I have it in the pile of parts to be fitted, luckly I am at the start of the process.

[Nigel Allen]

I feel your pain. I put electric power steer on my Coyote powered Mk 4. I needed to use all 3 of my hands to make it fit. Like your accelerator , I am glad I did it.

[SJDave]

I feel your pain. I put electric power steer on my Coyote powered Mk 4. I needed to use all 3 of my hands to make it fit. Like your accelerator , I am glad I did it.

I feel your pain Nigel, i am about 40 hours now into installing EPowersteering Kit in my Mark 3.1 with a small block 347. Essentially done now except I am adding a bracket to the bottom of the motor to the 4" frame rail to absorb the torgue. The single bracket to the 1" square frame tube moves a lot when turning the wheel with the car at rest. It may last forever but it sures look marginal. Just drilling the holes for the bracket is the frame rail is tough unless you drill out the F panel and remove all the stuff attached to it; I bought a hex drive drill bit and a hex drive drill extension kit on Amazon ($9) to drill two holes. Most of the wires coming in the kit are way too short and you have to extend them all, you need to extract the pins out of the Motor connectors, that takes 30 min just to figure out where the release is on that pin, and of course there are 3 different types of connector fasteners used. Ok, enough venting....I will post my adventure when I finish the bottom bracket; got lucky, found a rubber lined pipe clamp that fits the motor OD and a 5" long turnbuckle on Amazon and just have to fab a couple simple steel brackets.

[CABulldog]

I feel your pain Nigel, i am about 40 hours now into installing EPowersteering Kit in my Mark 3.1 with a small block 347. Essentially done now except I am adding a bracket to the bottom of the motor to the 4" frame rail to absorb the torgue. The single bracket to the 1" square frame tube moves a lot when turning the wheel with the car at rest. It may last forever but it sures look marginal. Just drilling the holes for the bracket is the frame rail is tough unless you drill out the F panel and remove all the stuff attached to it; I bought a hex drive drill bit and a hex drive drill extension kit on Amazon ($9) to drill two holes. Most of the wires coming in the kit are way too short and you have to extend them all, you need to extract the pins out of the Motor connectors, that takes 30 min just to figure out where the release is on that pin, and of course there are 3 different types of connector fasteners used. Ok, enough venting....I will post my adventure when I finish the bottom bracket; got lucky, found a rubber lined pipe clamp that fits the motor OD and a 5" long turnbuckle on Amazon and just have to fab a couple simple steel brackets.

I hope this does not become too common on this thread for me, but I have that kit waiting for me to install on my mk4. I will keep in mind not to rivet the f panel in place until i am done with the power steering, When I am doing it I will look at making an extended bracket on the CNC as well.