working with LUND on a Gen3 tune - did you use a heat shield?

[toadster]

From LUND:
You may not need the reducer, but we will need to know the measurement of the inside diameter where the MAF is located. This next part is important, you will want to shield this filter from any direct oncoming air. The sensor being located so close to the filter opening will cause turbulent MAF signal and will have fueling all over the place. The best we can do is shield the filter from direct outside air and hope it is not an issue when tuning.

have many of you used a heat shield to block any spurious air in the engine bay?

I believe Edwardb recommended this on his 20th anniv build
Spectre Performance 8130 Aluminum Air Filter Heat Shield (https://amzn.to/3YZUmA6)
I am putting in the Breeze Radiator shroud which should help reduce some air into the engine bay, but I know air gets in the space - wondered if the $40 is needed?

[JohnK]

Hey Todd - this is the first time I've heard the recommendation for a heat shield on the filter. It might be worth clarifying with Lund what exactly they recommend shield against - heat or turbulent air. I installed this honeycomb airflow straightener (https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/honeycomb-maf-mass-air-meter-airflow-straightener/p103828) in the MAF tube in front of the MAF to reduce turbulence (I believe I saw this in Edwardb's build thread).

[toadster]

yeah its to ensure there's no direct air hitting the filter to throw off the fueling map, not heat (we all know it gets warm under there) :)

[JeffP]

Interesting.. Lund did my G3 last summer and never mentioned anything about this. Although I have some issues with my tune too - but my cars been getting paint/body done for the last 4 months and I haven't had a chance to take it back up with them.

[Railroad]

I have a Gen 1 Coyote tuned by Lund. I sent pics of my air intake system. I had a couple of issues, one being the MAF sensor was too close to the throttle body. This caused the engine to quit after a WOT run. Second it was recommended to put a baffle between the filter and air wash coming off the radiator fan. No noticeable issue, due to the baffle being installed prior to final tune.
The possible issue, would be irregular idle caused by irregular air flow created by the fan air blowing across the filter.
I would guess above idle, the air flow would maintain enough speed inside the tube to be consistent across the MAF sensor.

[edwardb]

From LUND:
You may not need the reducer, but we will need to know the measurement of the inside diameter where the MAF is located. This next part is important, you will want to shield this filter from any direct oncoming air. The sensor being located so close to the filter opening will cause turbulent MAF signal and will have fueling all over the place. The best we can do is shield the filter from direct outside air and hope it is not an issue when tuning.

have many of you used a heat shield to block any spurious air in the engine bay?

I believe Edwardb recommended this on his 20th anniv build
Spectre Performance 8130 Aluminum Air Filter Heat Shield (https://amzn.to/3YZUmA6)
I am putting in the Breeze Radiator shroud which should help reduce some air into the engine bay, but I know air gets in the space - wondered if the $40 is needed?

Yes, I put that shield in my 20th Anniversary Roadster based on a discussion here in the forum. It wasn't an original idea on my part. That build also had the Breeze fan shroud. Can't say what effect it had. Overall, the engine ran well after everything was done. That build was a Gen 2 Coyote, which according to my conversations with Lund after they tuned the Gen 3 in my Coupe, was much less sensitive to MAF calibration. If they're recommending the shield for your Gen 3 build, I'd recommend doing it. For the price of the tune and the minor expense of the shield, why not just do it.

[Erik W. Treves]

in general - the air sampling through the MAF needs to be as "clean" as possible - also the air temp should be as "stable" as possible since the inlet temps are measured within the MAF. In the cobra the fan blowing anywhere on the air filter can absolutely mess things up. This becomes worse when the air filter is on the end of the MAF tube. optimally you want about 6-8 inches in front and behind of the sampling tube and it should be as straight as possible.... this nearly impossible in some cases. There isn't really an issue during WOT it becomes an issue in part throttle and idle.... where we spend most of our time driving. I have some drivability issues in my twin turbo arrangement that comes in very intermittently since my blow off valve is about a very turbulent area in front of my MAF - I have been considering moving my BOV and adding a second one to settle down the flow of air (another discussion) - I think what Lund is suggesting isn't unreasonable if your filter is open to direct airflow - so while it is called a heat shield - I think they are suggesting it more from an airflow management perspective - like putting the MAF in a "box" like the OEM folks do.... same thing.

[Vaulter18]

My install is with the Factory Five provided sample tube, silcone elbow, and filter. The ID of the sample tube matches that of the gen 3 ford control pack. I have been running mine just like that with no tune or shield and have been very happy.
I think I am still one of the few that has not had drivability issues with my Gen 3 Coyote in stock form? I only have about 2000 miles on the motor but plenty of city, spirited driving, and a hand full of autocrosses. No track time yet.

Related question to your origonal post; Is Lund asking you to remove the CMCV? I took some time to make sure mine was work working as stock, but when I called to ask about a tune they were saying the need them fixed open.

[toadster]

My install is with the Factory Five provided sample tube, silcone elbow, and filter. The ID of the sample tube matches that of the gen 3 ford control pack. I have been running mine just like that with no tune or shield and have been very happy.
I think I am still one of the few that has not had drivability issues with my Gen 3 Coyote in stock form? I only have about 2000 miles on the motor but plenty of city, spirited driving, and a hand full of autocrosses. No track time yet.

Related question to your origonal post; Is Lund asking you to remove the CMCV? I took some time to make sure mine was work working as stock, but when I called to ask about a tune they were saying the need them fixed open.

no I removed the CMCVs because of space.. there's so much crap on my firewall they just wouldn't fit :) here's a peek (not done yet!)

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[toadster]

just to follow up, I did get the heat shield (https://amzn.to/3o4fEiy) as prescribed by Paul above, a little more flash in the engine bay ;)

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