Help me fix my hood

[phileas_fogg]

I took a chance on a local painter, and have decidedly mixed results. The paint looks really really good; however, it took way too long and is not complete. I have since relieved the painter of his duties. Now on to my question.

For reasons unknown, my painter decided to replace the rivets that secure the hood to its brackets with riv-nuts. His attempts were unsuccessful. I now have 19/64" holes [EDIT: not 1/4" as originally posted] where the 3/16" rivets would go.

How do I fix this?


John

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180408&d=1677075000

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180409&d=1677075000

[65 Cobra Dude]

John,

Can you use 1/4 rivets? I know they make them and it would require you to drill out the brackets.

Henry

[cob427sc]

I would purchase the larger shell rivnuts made for installation into fiberglass, not the ones used here. The outside diameter is larger and will require an even larger hole to install. Not sure if FFR installs a metal plate at this location for attachment as older models did not and the 3/16 rivets would pull out after time. Using the rivnuts allows you to remove the hinge bracket in the futire if needed without drilling out the rivets.

[mladen]

Larger rivets (https://rivetsinstock.com/rivets/blind-rivets/nail-type-basic-blind-rivets.html) was my first thought too. What's the diameter of the holes you have there?

Also, I'm not sure if anyone devised another solution, something like this (https://www.core77.com/posts/23139/Fastener-Re-design-A-Bolt-with-No-Nut), but I was reminded of the various anchors used for attaching to drywall that expand on the other side in some way.

EDIT2: Ran across these (https://www.amazon.com/Cimeton-Neoprene-Stainless-Copper-Motorcycle/dp/B096ZXFS3V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rubber+well+nuts&qid=1677075752&sr=8-3) too, not sure how these "well nuts" are different from rivnuts

[Namrups]

Larger rivets (https://rivetsinstock.com/rivets/blind-rivets/nail-type-basic-blind-rivets.html) was my first thought too. What's the diameter of the holes you have there?

Also, I'm not sure if anyone devised another solution, something like this (https://www.core77.com/posts/23139/Fastener-Re-design-A-Bolt-with-No-Nut), but I was reminded of the various anchors used for attaching to drywall that expand on the other side in some way.

EDIT2: Ran across these (https://www.amazon.com/Cimeton-Neoprene-Stainless-Copper-Motorcycle/dp/B096ZXFS3V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rubber+well+nuts&qid=1677075752&sr=8-3) too, not sure how these "well nuts" are different from rivnuts

I bought steel rivnuts designed for plastics/fiberglass from McMaster-Carr. Their part number 97217A393. They use 1/4"-20 fasteners. I won't be using them. PM me and let me know how many you need. I'll send them to you. You need a tool to install them.

[Jeff Kleiner]

There is metal under the glass. Go into the original holes with 1/4” rivets but watch your depth—-there is a fine line between not long enough to grip well and too long which won’t pull tight— a shank length of .5” is the sweet spot. Since you’ll be putting these into damaged holes I’d also suggest supplementing them by adding two more per side into “fresh meat”.

Jeff

[rich grsc]

I never trusted the rivets. I bonded the hinges and the support brackets to the hood, using the rivets to align and hold the brackets till everything cured. Downside, they will never come off without damaging the hood.

[phileas_fogg]

Thanks everybody for the suggestions.

So I actually measured the holes. They're 19/64" (just a hair short of 5/16").

I see that Grainger sells 9/32" and 5/16" blind rivets (https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/rivets/blind-rivets?attrs=Rivet+Dia.%7C5%2F16+in&filters=attrs).

Namrups: You have a PM.

Rich: What did you use to bond the brackets?


John

[rich grsc]

A product from West Marine, West System 105 epoxy resin. It's used to bond fairing and brackets onto boats. It is incredibly strong, WAY stronger than 3 rivets.

[boat737]

I never trusted the rivets. I bonded the hinges and the support brackets to the hood, using the rivets to align and hold the brackets till everything cured. Downside, they will never come off without damaging the hood.

I did the same. Once painted over, it looks pristine.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks everybody for the suggestions.

So I actually measured the holes. They're 19/64" (just a hair short of 5/16").

I see that Grainger sells 9/32" and 5/16" blind rivets (https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/rivets/blind-rivets?attrs=Rivet+Dia.%7C5%2F16+in&filters=attrs).

Namrups: You have a PM.

Rich: What did you use to bond the brackets?


John

Rivets work fine as long as the holes aren’t wallered out (that a southern Indiana technical term). Now knowing that your original holes are even beyond “wallered” a Plan B might be to reverse the pattern and drill 4 new ones in both the bracket and hood to get you into fresh material.

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

Rivets work fine as long as the holes aren’t wallered out (that a southern Indiana technical term). Now knowing that your original holes are even beyond “wallered” a Plan B might be to reverse the pattern and drill 4 new ones in both the bracket and hood to get you into fresh material.

Jeff

Jeff,

It seem that your Southern Indiana Technical Term has made it all the way down here to New Orleans. With that said did you ever think that your great state would also be known for that term in addition to the Great Indy & Brickyard 500 Races?

As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge us because we know you've seen a bunch of crazy stuff that need solving.

Steve

[BRRT]

Jeff,

It seem that your Southern Indiana Technical Term has made it all the way down here to New Orleans. With that said did you ever think that your great state would also be known for that term in addition to the Great Indy & Brickyard 500 Races?

As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge us because we know you've seen a bunch of crazy stuff that need solving.

Steve

That Kleiner guy is one sharp cookie!

[phileas_fogg]

I think I've got a plan; comments are welcome.

I'm going to use some #10-32 button head screws and some un-smooshed (Jeff - that's an East Tennessee term of art) riv-nuts to make a bracket assembly as shown below. I'm going to sand the back of the bracket (the side that contacts the hood), and CAREFULLY sand the contact patch on the hood down to the glass. Then I'm going to use West System 105 resin and 207 clear hardener to bond the riv-nuts into the holes & the bracket to the hood. I think I need 1/16" of epoxy between the bracket & the hood to get the strength I want. Provided I keep the brackets parallel (to keep the hinges from working against each other & binding), I think I'll have a strong, durable, PERMANENT assembly.

Thoughts?


John

P.S. Many thanks to Namrups for the fiberglass riv-nuts; unfortunately, they were so long that the necessary hole was too deep for my comfort level.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180546&d=1677264599

[rich grsc]

Should be a great permanent fix. Use some painters tape on the hood around the perimeter of the hinge bracket. Any squeeze out of the epoxy can be cleaned up with a popsicle stick or similar shaped item, then carefully remove the tape before the epoxy fully cures.

[phileas_fogg]

The epoxy worked! One wrinkle though; I didn't account for the additional height of the riv-nut. My first application of epoxy only bonded in patches between the fiberglass and the bracket. So I bought some cheap hypodermic needles from Amazon, and used them to inject the epoxy under the center of the bracket until the epoxy started to flow out onto the painter's tape. Now I KNOW the brackets are securely bonded to the hood.


John