Roast my dashboard layout

[mladen]

Or plan I guess.

I did a rough mount of the dashboard and gauges today, and of course, I drilled holes in the frame for the mounting brackets too soon. Two of them interfere with the gauges, so I have to relocate them. But anyway, here's how things are looking right now:

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You're probably saying to yourself: Mladen, that just looks like the standard pre-cut layout plus a hole for the hazard switch. And you'd be right. Here's what I'm thinking of doing:

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These are the changes I intend to make, from left to right:

- At the top, a switch for the air intake fan for DS footbox. Bellow, a cable pull (same size knob as light switch) to to close the air vent
- DS seat heater button
- New location for light switch knob (current one will be blank)
- Location for heater knob. Thinking with these two is that I'd like to keep them together. By moving both to side it will preserve some symmetry, but not be too close to the ignition switch so you hit it with your knuckles
- PS seat heater button
- Same as DS, but air controls for the PS footbox

As I mentioned in my build thread, I like keeping the controls visible and accessible, plus I'm using custom billet buttons for everything so want to show them off as well. The leftmost controls are the biggest concern of being too close to the door or cowling. I'll keep them tight to the speedo. Most of the speedo isn't visible from the steering wheel anyway.

What are your thoughts on the vertical positioning of my dash? I have the edges aligned with the 1/4" loop, but that way the middle is drooped down a bit. Also, thoughts on the space between the dash and steering wheel?

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[facultyofmusic]

- At the top, a switch for the air intake fan for DS footbox. Bellow, a cable pull (same size knob as light switch) to to close the air vent


How far will the cable-pull come out? It looks like you're going with Russ Thompson's turn signal mod (which is great BTW) with the standard size FFR wheel. Two things: First is whether or not the cable pull in the pulled position will brush by your hands on the steering wheel, Second is the visibility of the knobs. I find it very difficult to see anything that's behind my steering wheel (mostly because I can't see it). While driving I'd prefer not having to tilt my head to the side to operate something on the dash.



What are your thoughts on the vertical positioning of my dash? I have the edges aligned with the 1/4" loop, but that way the middle is drooped down a bit. Also, thoughts on the space between the dash and steering wheel?


Mine's also like that with the middle drooping down. As long as the gauges don't clash with the hoop you'll be fine. Is the distance between dash and steering wheel final? I'm curious as to how you'll move the RT turn signal tube enough to cover that distance.

cool gauges btw!

[John Ibele]

Hmm, no takers :) (Edit: Dan snuck in first while I was writing ... good on ya :))

Part of the reason for that may be that there is so much individual taste that goes into the detailed choices for dashboard layout, once you leave the stock locations behind. I think you're headed in the right direction, but maybe some suggestions about process might help, rather than focus on the list of specific choices (which are yours, and therefore not wrong whatever you do ...).


I used paper photo gauges and double sided tape to move all the gauges around until I could see everything through the steering wheel and to my liking.
I went through several evenings of sharpie layouts, and did trial 'drives' to judge layouts ... photo at the end of the evening, had my son come out to contribute and critique. Fun!
I was looking for symmetry in layout, so did something similar to what you're contemplating ... my seat heater switches both went on the passenger side (convenience item, not needed often by the driver), but their indicator lights are at the top on each side, not immediately above each switch. A little wonky, but I decided I liked it.
I wish I had spent a bit more time on the ergonomics of getting my finger under each toggle switch. It would have led me to leaving a bit more room between controls on the dash. Very workable, and I like what I have. Just something to note ... the sharpie layout doesn't tell you everything.
My vent knobs went between the knees on both DS and PS sides. Doesn't sound right, but I couldn't find spots on each side that would be out of the way of other items. And, at least for this 6 footer, they won't get hit by anyone's shins when mounted on the bottom of the 2x2 cross frame member.


I'll stick in a photo of early sharpie layout, in case that helps in any way. Also a picture of the curve at the end of the dash, so you know how that will look. Come to think of it, you should put that bend in, mount the dash, and attach the driver's side door temporarily (easy / quick to do) before making any decisions about what to mount to the left of the steering wheel. Good luck.

Early draft, not what I ended up with:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50695196728_8fe7d52061_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2keL8N1)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2keL8N1) by John Ibele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/familycobra/), on Flickr

Dash end curve:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52594839380_3f050ddde4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o8Cinw)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2o8Cinw) by John Ibele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/familycobra/), on Flickr

[mladen]

How far will the cable-pull come out? It looks like you're going with Russ Thompson's turn signal mod (which is great BTW) with the standard size FFR wheel. Two things: First is whether or not the cable pull in the pulled position will brush by your hands on the steering wheel, Second is the visibility of the knobs. I find it very difficult to see anything that's behind my steering wheel (mostly because I can't see it). While driving I'd prefer not having to tilt my head to the side to operate something on the dash.



Mine's also like that with the middle drooping down. As long as the gauges don't clash with the hoop you'll be fine. Is the distance between dash and steering wheel final? I'm curious as to how you'll move the RT turn signal tube enough to cover that distance.

cool gauges btw!

Thank you! I sent them in to Soeedhut to switch for white with blue light to match the blue paint and cream interior.

Not final on the steering yet. Some will be taken by the turn signal and some by the NRG quick release. I'm hoping it's too far out right now, becuse I made the classic mistake of forcing the driveshaft in more than I should. Backing it out now would probably be a massive pain. :(

[facultyofmusic]

Hmm, no takers :) (Edit: Dan snuck in first while I was writing ... good on ya :))

Just sneaking it in :cool:


I'm hoping it's too far out right now, becuse I made the classic mistake of forcing the driveshaft in more than I should. Backing it out now would probably be a massive pain. :(

I did the same thing! Try as I may I could not get the driveshaft out. If you're going with a quick release then you'll have some adjustment room! There are a bunch you can use instead of from the recently popular NRG thin quick-release. Some are thicker and could offer more spacing.

[mladen]

Hmm, no takers :) (Edit: Dan snuck in first while I was writing ... good on ya :))

Part of the reason for that may be that there is so much individual taste that goes into the detailed choices for dashboard layout, once you leave the stock locations behind. I think you're headed in the right direction, but maybe some suggestions about process might help, rather than focus on the list of specific choices (which are yours, and therefore not wrong whatever you do ...).


I used paper photo gauges and double sided tape to move all the gauges around until I could see everything through the steering wheel and to my liking.
I went through several evenings of sharpie layouts, and did trial 'drives' to judge layouts ... photo at the end of the evening, had my son come out to contribute and critique. Fun!
I was looking for symmetry in layout, so did something similar to what you're contemplating ... my seat heater switches both went on the passenger side (convenience item, not needed often by the driver), but their indicator lights are at the top on each side, not immediately above each switch. A little wonky, but I decided I liked it.
I wish I had spent a bit more time on the ergonomics of getting my finger under each toggle switch. It would have led me to leaving a bit more room between controls on the dash. Very workable, and I like what I have. Just something to note ... the sharpie layout doesn't tell you everything.
My vent knobs went between the knees on both DS and PS sides. Doesn't sound right, but I couldn't find spots on each side that would be out of the way of other items. And, at least for this 6 footer, they won't get hit by anyone's shins when mounted on the bottom of the 2x2 cross frame member.


I'll stick in a photo of early sharpie layout, in case that helps in any way. Also a picture of the curve at the end of the dash, so you know how that will look. Come to think of it, you should put that bend in, mount the dash, and attach the driver's side door temporarily (easy / quick to do) before making any decisions about what to mount to the left of the steering wheel. Good luck.

Early draft, not what I ended up with:


Thank you! The photos help a lot, and putting the door in is an excellent idea to give me proper sense of what room I'll have to work with.

The more I look at the dash as is the less I'm a fan of that speedo location. I have some time before things have to be finalized, so worst case scenario I buy a blank dash and write off $120 :D

[AC Bill]

After 10+ years of driving the roadster, the only gauges I really need to clearly see, and use regularly, are oil pressure, and coolant temperature.

The oil temp gauge barely moves, likewise with the amp gauge, (plus the amp gauge has an idiot light if the alternator was to fail). Sitting at a stop light I may take a brief scan of them. I might glance at the fuel gauge once at the start of a cruise, and again at the end of a cruise. I can judge fairly accurately how far I can go, before needing a fill.

I use my ears for engine rpm, and shift points, and only glance at the speedo if there is a speed zone change to a lower speed. The gear I'm in and the exhaust sound, are pretty good indicators of speed for me otherwise. I wouldn't overthink your speedo gauge placement.

[Alan_C]

Just a general comment. After driving my MK4 with the standard layout with the speedo or tach to the left of the steering wheel, I redid my dash in the competition layout. I much preferred the competition layout for instrument readability. I know that would mean starting over from a black dash, but I found the change worth while. Drive your car awhile and if you like the standard layout your good.

[Fixit]

One little trick I did was photocopy my gauges, punch a center-hole, then cut them out. Makes it a whole lot easier to shift things around, check clearances, sit in the seat and make vroomvroom noises
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This is what the final layout turned out as. It looks like the Water Temp is blocked, but in use it's perfect line of sight.
One absolute must do. Install very bright, in your line of sight/face indicators for the turn signals. The indicators in the Speedhut/FFR units are useless in daylight.
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[John Ibele]

The more I look at the dash as is the less I'm a fan of that speedo location. I have some time before things have to be finalized, so worst case scenario I buy a blank dash and write off $120 :D

Yeah, see what you did? You had a dash anyone could have been happy with. Then you had to go poke around on the forum :rolleyes:

[lance corsi]

While building my 818, I went to several concourse events to find out how best to layout a dashboard. What I learned is that there is no specific way to a dash layout. Some cars had the tach on the left, some on the right, etc. as long as you can see the gauges, the layout will work for you. Having said that, if you are boxed in by recreating an existing car, you are unfortunately locked into a specific layout. Other than that, it’s your car, do what works for you. It’s doubtful anyone will pick on that aspect of your build.

[facultyofmusic]

Yeah, see what you did? You had a dash anyone could have been happy with. Then you had to go poke around on the forum :rolleyes:

Oh come on John, don't tell me you don't constantly live in fear of someone making fun of your dashboard gauge placement!

[mladen]

Well, my build manual says that if my dash doesn't look good I will be made fun of at meet ups and made to sit at the kids table. The kids table part is even underlined.

Just kidding. :D I'm thinking I'll proceed as is. Since I'm mounting the dash on brackets so it's removable, if I decide to, I can always redo it later at a similar cost.

I'm still definitely going to bend it and put the door on to check the clearance before I put the air intake controls all the way to the left.

[CW_MI]

After 10+ years of driving the roadster, the only gauges I really need to clearly see, and use regularly, are oil pressure, and coolant temperature.

The oil temp gauge barely moves, likewise with the amp gauge, (plus the amp gauge has an idiot light if the alternator was to fail). Sitting at a stop light I may take a brief scan of them. I might glance at the fuel gauge once at the start of a cruise, and again at the end of a cruise. I can judge fairly accurately how far I can go, before needing a fill.

I use my ears for engine rpm, and shift points, and only glance at the speedo if there is a speed zone change to a lower speed. The gear I'm in and the exhaust sound, are pretty good indicators of speed for me otherwise. I wouldn't overthink your speedo gauge placement.

And this is the main reason why I'm going to stray from the "norm" on my dash layout, when it happens. I'll probably have the tach and speedo more or less centered on the dash as high as they can go, similar to a build i saw on YT (Randomwerks), with all my switches under them. Then have the coolant temp and oil pressure gauges behind the steering wheel just above the horizontal spokes, in my line of site, spaced out enough to fit a 7 lamp indicator panel (New Vintage USA) in between them. The fuel, oil temp and amp gauges placed vertically just to the right of the steering wheel. Or since I'm going to be using the Edelbrock Pro Flow 4, eliminate the amp and oil temp gauges all together and monitor them via tablet on a fabbed panel under the dash.

[Rebostar]

Kinda like closing the barn door after the horse got out, but here's my idea of shuffling around gauges. I made life size paper cutouts, put a piece of double sided tape on the back, then sat in the seat with the steering wheel attached and moved suff around untill I found what I liked.

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[Jim1855]

A track focused layout. Oil temp, oil pressure and tach behind the steering wheel. These are all I look at when on the track.
Volts, water temp, vac. Then fuel level, diff/trans temp. Speedo in the center.
I have since changed the gauge trim rings to black.
Switches and power ports will be in independent panels. Configuration TBD.
Key and start will be on the left side of the steering wheel.
At this time, I'm also planning to split the dash vertically just to the right of the tach so the right section can be easily removed allowing access behind the dash.
A track/GPS recorder will be mounted to the diagonal support bar above the speedo.

Lots of good options shown in the preceding posts. Comes down to preferences, intended use and the "look" you are after.

Jim

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[BEAR-AvHistory]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153848&d=1632788863

Mine is pretty classic using the pre punched FFR panel. Only unusual items are a spring loaded center off long stem switch for the blinkers set at up for left turns & down for right ones The horn button right below it. Main driving gauges are tach, oil temp/pressure, water temp along the top line of gauges. I drive by the tach so the hidden speedo is not an issue.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188023&d=1690737057