GTM #534 Build Log

[Windsor]

I did suggest to the guy I used that I thought he was missing out on a lot of customers that would happily buy a "standardized" LS motorsports harness that would be in the range of $2,500.00. His reply to me was "why would I do that when I am backed up for months at $5k-$10k for my harnesses?" Guess he's got a point.

Because he can bring in a kid for cheap to lay out the standard harness and make more $/hr selling a handful of those every month. Of course it would eat some of his time getting the hired hand set up and in the right direction, but should cover those losses pretty quick.

[frankenford]

"I spent over $3,000 just in tooling to build mine and am about to open a tool rental business."

I'll rent your corner scales for a couple weeks lol

[frankenford]

I went with a Holley terminator x Max ecu. It came with a pretty nice harness but like everyone has said it had to be modified. With the intake flipped and depending on how you route it you must pay close attention to cylinder numbers for the injectors and coils. I had to repin all those as well as lengthen the oil pressure sensor. Holley has lots of limitations with the terminator, only 1 wideband 4 inputs and 4 outputs just for starters and I find their program to be restrictive too. Even though I haven't reached the point of starting my engine yet I have regrets with going with Holley. Doing it over again I would have went with a megasquirt3. I know that will make some people cringe but I haven't seen anything the big names do that the ms3 can't. Not saying its equal to or better than motec but it's what I'm already familiar with and I know how to use tunerstudio. Haltec did look pretty appealing for my price range as well.

[Shoeless]

"I spent over $3,000 just in tooling to build mine and am about to open a tool rental business."

I'll rent your corner scales for a couple weeks lol

If you are in S FL, we can make this happen :cool: shipping would be a killer at the weight of these things.

[ohmygosuness]

Is there such thing as an aftermarket/universal clock spring for the horn? One that works with the steering wheel from FFR. I accidentally broke my clock spring :( it came off a C6 steering column.

[Shoeless]

Not sure about a universal. I was lucky enough to have beeman donate the one he pulled from another GM car and already prepped and dropped it right in mine with some clearance work on my Momo adapter.

I can't remember the model car he got it off of or find the link he was nice enough to send me of all his prep work, but I know that he documented the whole process. Hopefully he can chime in here with the details. If i remember it was very cost effective as well.

[beeman]

Not sure about a universal. I was lucky enough to have beeman donate the one he pulled from another GM car and already prepped and dropped it right in mine with some clearance work on my Momo adapter.

I can't remember the model car he got it off of or find the link he was nice enough to send me of all his prep work, but I know that he documented the whole process. Hopefully he can chime in here with the details. If i remember it was very cost effective as well.

I couldn't find it but Google did! Was on the other forum...

https://www.ffcars.com/threads/official-steering-wheel-button-thread.554785/

[ohmygosuness]

I couldn't find it but Google did! Was on the other forum...

https://www.ffcars.com/threads/official-steering-wheel-button-thread.554785/
That's very impressive! I'll definitely look into this spring lock if you can get it for only $12 lol. The C6 OEM one goes for around $100 used.

Was this 3D printed?
Where did you get the buttons?

[beeman]

That's very impressive! I'll definitely look into this spring lock if you can get it for only $12 lol. The C6 OEM one goes for around $100 used.

Was this 3D printed?
Where did you get the buttons?

Are you using the FFR steering wheel? I went with another steering wheel, the plate fits the FFR wheel better, was keeping it for another project, PM me if you might want to use it.

[ohmygosuness]

Are you using the FFR steering wheel? I went with another steering wheel, the plate fits the FFR wheel better, was keeping it for another project, PM me if you might want to use it.
I'll be using the FFR steering wheel (I think it's Momo?). I'm also thinking about keeping the Vette blinker/wiper switches since I took those off the donor and they're already attached to the steering column.

[beeman]

I'll be using the FFR steering wheel (I think it's Momo?). I'm also thinking about keeping the Vette blinker/wiper switches since I took those off the donor and they're already attached to the steering column.

I don't think the FFR supplied wheel is MOMO, Sparco, etc, there weren't any markings on it. It's a very nice wheel though, and very comfortable, I only changed it because I wanted a different color.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I think the steering wheel adapter has the MOMO bolt pattern......maybe that's what we're getting at?

[beeman]

I think the steering wheel adapter has the MOMO bolt pattern......maybe that's what we're getting at?

Yes, Momo bolt pattern

[ohmygosuness]

I think the steering wheel adapter has the MOMO bolt pattern......maybe that's what we're getting at?
Oh you're right. The adaptor is Momo. But the wheel itself doesn't have a brand, just like the supplied seats. Looks good quality though.

[ohmygosuness]

I moved to a different state and I decided to set the body "loosely" on the chassis when it gets transported.
Then I noticed this big gap in the rear wheel well.
Either the body warped for sitting on the floor for 3 years or this one just have really bad fitment.
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[Shoeless]

Did the body get pulled away from the frame and is now not all the way down where it wraps under the chassis (and then hugs it properly)?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I'm with Shoeless.....there is a little stub of chassis tube sticking out in front of the rear wheel arch.....looks like maybe the body is hung up and sitting on top of that stub instead of wrapping around the bottom of the chassis?...or the door striker mount on the chassis is holding the body out?

[ohmygosuness]

It was able to hug the bottom of the chassis when I took delivery fee years ago. It is unable to do that anymore. The sides are flaring out a little. If the body warps over time, I'm thinking about lean it against a wall on its left side for a year, then right side for a year to "bend" it back to shape lol.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

If you can't get the bottom of the body to wrap down around the bottom of the chassis, something is holding it up. Either it's hung up on the door hinges so it won't go forward far enough to clear the door strikers or something else is holding it out. Once you get it positioned properly, even if it's warped out a bit, you should be able to easily push it back into place, drill and cleco that bottom flange to the bottom of the chassis to hold it in place.

[crash]

If you can't get the bottom of the body to wrap down around the bottom of the chassis, something is holding it up. Either it's hung up on the door hinges so it won't go forward far enough to clear the door strikers or something else is holding it out. Once you get it positioned properly, even if it's warped out a bit, you should be able to easily push it back into place, drill and cleco that bottom flange to the bottom of the chassis to hold it in place.

I agree. Fiberglass is very "bendy" and you should be able to move things where you want them, or where they should be, and they will stay there as long as you have a solid mount to attach to.

[Shoeless]

Shane and crash are spot on here. If the body is truly warped a bit, you should be able to easily push against it to bend to back in place, IF no frame pieces are in the way.

The pic may be a little deceiving, but it just looks like the body is not down far enough (gap between top of tire and body) to wrap under the frame tubes like it should.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Another area to check is the main front aluminum vertical pieces that are captured by the front suspension. Those are typically a bit long at the rear edge...which can cause a chain reaction.....if the leading cowl edge of the body is hitting that aluminum and holding the body back, then the sides won't tuck down behind the door hinges at the A-pillar....and the body won't move forward enough to get past the door striker mount....and I would say it's likely that the door striker mounts are what's keeping the sides pushed out like in the photo.

The very front edge of the body that wraps down around the bottom of the chassis can also hang up on that chassis stub....and if that won't drop down....again, it causes the body to not tuck in behind the door hinges and causes the same thing.

[ohmygosuness]

Thank you all for the advice. I'll keep these tips in mind. This is just something I noticed when transporting the car. Since I'm no where near completing the go-kart stage yet, I'll just tackle the body fitment when I'm pretty much done with everything else (probably years later lol).

[ohmygosuness]

I've been mostly following the steps in the manual so far (unless you guys have a better approach) and it's time for me to mount the location for the fuse panel. The manual says to put it by the driver side dash. Is that still a good location?
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[ohmygosuness]

So, I'm trying to get the fuel system routed.

The manual says to swap the driver side tank with the passenger side and not much other details. It appears that the stock vette crossover tube won't work here. Also, it appears that I need to drill a hole at the bottom of the tank. I'm a bit confused as to why I can't just use the vette setup here instead of swapping the tanks and drilling holes in them.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

The tanks won't fit in the chassis unless you swap them. Even if you could fit them in non-swapped, the engine is in the way to use the 'Vette crossover tube. Yes, you will need to use the FFR crossover tube in order to use both tanks. I'm not a product-pusher, but you'll definitely want to use one of the seal kits I offer to get the crossover tube to seal up and not leak. If you have non-2004 tanks, you can use my seal kit to avoid drilling a hole in the non-pump tank (unless you're using the fuel level sender in that tank for your gauge).

[ohmygosuness]

The tanks won't fit in the chassis unless you swap them. Even if you could fit them in non-swapped, the engine is in the way to use the 'Vette crossover tube. Yes, you will need to use the FFR crossover tube in order to use both tanks. I'm not a product-pusher, but you'll definitely want to use one of the seal kits I offer to get the crossover tube to seal up and not leak. If you have non-2004 tanks, you can use my seal kit to avoid drilling a hole in the non-pump tank (unless you're using the fuel level sender in that tank for your gauge).

I'm using 06 tanks from the C6 donor. The pumps on those are definitely oriented different than 04 tanks (06 pumps are mounted on top of the tank). So far they seem to fit good in the GTM (fingers crossed). I believe a regulator is also built into one of the tanks.

If I won't be using the Corvette crossover tube, would I be re-routing the tubes that were originally in it? Or will they not be used. (I believe one is a feeder from one tank to the other and the other one is return from engine).

Your products have been worth the money. Feel free to push them my way. Send me the link to the kit :D

[rolfer]

I can vouch for Shane's tank kit! it was well worth it.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I'm using 06 tanks from the C6 donor. The pumps on those are definitely oriented different than 04 tanks (06 pumps are mounted on top of the tank). So far they seem to fit good in the GTM (fingers crossed). I believe a regulator is also built into one of the tanks.

If I won't be using the Corvette crossover tube, would I be re-routing the tubes that were originally in it? Or will they not be used. (I believe one is a feeder from one tank to the other and the other one is return from engine).

Your products have been worth the money. Feel free to push them my way. Send me the link to the kit :D

I'm not familiar with the 06 tanks....but from your description, it sounds like they're probably the same as the 04 tanks....so there were a bunch of plastic fuel lines routed inside the tanks and inside the crossover tube? Those can all be removed.....which will leave an open port on the bottom of the fuel pump unit that you will have to plug off. Make sure you plug it off securely as it has full fuel pressure to it, and if the plug blows off inside the tank, you will have zero fuel pressure to the engine.

Since the pump/guts of the tank are mounted in the top, that means you'll have to drill holes in both tanks. Here is a link to the seal kit you would need:

https://vraptorspeedworks.com/fuel-tank-budget-cross-over-kit-04/

Price is $33 plus shipping. If you go to the GTM parts page, my email is right at the top of the page.....shoot me an email with your shipping address and we'll go from there. Thanks!

[ohmygosuness]

I'm not familiar with the 06 tanks....but from your description, it sounds like they're probably the same as the 04 tanks....so there were a bunch of plastic fuel lines routed inside the tanks and inside the crossover tube? Those can all be removed.....which will leave an open port on the bottom of the fuel pump unit that you will have to plug off. Make sure you plug it off securely as it has full fuel pressure to it, and if the plug blows off inside the tank, you will have zero fuel pressure to the engine.

Since the pump/guts of the tank are mounted in the top, that means you'll have to drill holes in both tanks. Here is a link to the seal kit you would need:

https://vraptorspeedworks.com/fuel-tank-budget-cross-over-kit-04/

Price is $33 plus shipping. If you go to the GTM parts page, my email is right at the top of the page.....shoot me an email with your shipping address and we'll go from there. Thanks!

It looks like the kit fits onto an aluminum plate on the 04 tank and the 06 tank does not have that plate. I'll have to post some pics of my tank when I get home.

[ohmygosuness]

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[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

It looks like the kit fits onto an aluminum plate on the 04 tank and the 06 tank does not have that plate. I'll have to post some pics of my tank when I get home.

That plate is used on the older tanks....I only have it pictured there to demonstrate how the seals are assembled to the tank. You will have to find a flat spot at the bottom portion of your tanks that you can route that -12 AN crossover hose to, drill a hole and install the fitting and seals the same way as pictured on the aluminum plate.

[ohmygosuness]

That plate is used on the older tanks....I only have it pictured there to demonstrate how the seals are assembled to the tank. You will have to find a flat spot at the bottom portion of your tanks that you can route that -12 AN crossover hose to, drill a hole and install the fitting and seals the same way as pictured on the aluminum plate.

Got it. I sent you an email for the seal kit.

Is there a fuel return line on the GTM?

[beeman]

Got it. I sent you an email for the seal kit.

Is there a fuel return line on the GTM?

You just use the GM fuel filter/regulator, it has a built-in fuel return.

https://i5.walmartimages.com/seo/ACDelco-GF822-Fuel-Filter-Fits-select-1999-2004-CHEVROLET-CORVETTE_b08ff10e-59fb-4baa-a372-1e3602e8aa90.69421240b672bed4deff86691d25999c.jpeg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Got it. I sent you an email for the seal kit.

Is there a fuel return line on the GTM?

You won't have a return line with the tanks you have. The fuel pressure regulator, filter and return is all build into the pump assembly inside the fuel tank....so there is only one fuel line out of the pump that goes directly to the fuel rail and that's it.

[ohmygosuness]

You won't have a return line with the tanks you have. The fuel pressure regulator, filter and return is all build into the pump assembly inside the fuel tank....so there is only one fuel line out of the pump that goes directly to the fuel rail and that's it.

So the vette's passenger side tank has a fuel-transfer unit. Since the GTM crossover tube is at the bottom of the tanks, does it mean the fuel transfer unit will be useless?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

So the vette's passenger side tank has a fuel-transfer unit. Since the GTM crossover tube is at the bottom of the tanks, does it mean the fuel transfer unit will be useless?

That is correct. Originally, FFR had that transfer pump hooked up when the GTM first came out. The problem is that....in the Corvette, that transfer pump would always keep the pump tank full and any excess fuel pumped into the pump tank by the transfer pump would simply flow back into the non-pump tank thru that big crossover at the top of the tank. In the GTM, that crossover was gone, so the transfer pump would pump fuel into the pump tank until it overflowed all over the outside of the car thru the filler neck.

With the "new" AN crossover installed at the bottom of the tanks, the fuel level in both tanks is always equalized.

[ohmygosuness]

That is correct. Originally, FFR had that transfer pump hooked up when the GTM first came out. The problem is that....in the Corvette, that transfer pump would always keep the pump tank full and any excess fuel pumped into the pump tank by the transfer pump would simply flow back into the non-pump tank thru that big crossover at the top of the tank. In the GTM, that crossover was gone, so the transfer pump would pump fuel into the pump tank until it overflowed all over the outside of the car thru the filler neck.

With the "new" AN crossover installed at the bottom of the tanks, the fuel level in both tanks is always equalized.

Looks like there's quite a bit of holes I need to cap off. Do you have a "kit" for that as well? :D

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

All of those plastic fuel lines inside the tanks? Those can all be removed. The only port you need to cap off inside the tank is the port right on the fuel pump assy that I mentioned in post #279

[ohmygosuness]

I did some more research and I have a slightly better idea where I would route things now.
I think I'll remove the fuel sender and I'll be capping off that big hole where that fuel sender used to be.
Also, I'd be capping off the factory filler neck? Since it appears that the original opening for the crossover tube will become the new filler necks.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yes, the factory fill neck will need to be capped and yes...the crossover tube connections are now your new filler neck connections.....hopefully you have the stainless 'Vette crossover tube that connects to the tanks? You will need to cut that down to hook the GTM filler necks to.

[ohmygosuness]

Yes, I'm glad I kept the Corvette crossover tube just in case I need it. Only thing is I didn't keep any of the EVAP stuff (canister, purge, and vent solenoid). I didn't even know what these were until now. I'll have to buy them again. At least they're not very expensive.

I got the seal kit, Shane. Looks good. Can't wait to put them on.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

You don't need any of the EVAP stuff unless you want to add that stuff. I've never installed any of it.

[ohmygosuness]

You don't need any of the EVAP stuff unless you want to add that stuff. I've never installed any of it.

Damn. I put an order in for all 3 yesterday. I might just install them since I have them now :(

[ohmygosuness]

For the seal kit, does it matter if the washer side is in or outside the tank?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yes. You want to install the seals just like they are pictured on that aluminum plate on my website. The washer with the bent tabs to hold the o-ring in place goes inside the tank and the larger washer that surrounds the OD of the o-ring goes on the outside of the tank. That outer washer gets locked into place when you tighten the fitting....center that washer on the OD of the o-ring before you start to tighten the fitting.....and that is the o-ring that creates your seal.....o-ring is sealed against the face of the fitting and the other side is sealed to the outside of the tank.

[ohmygosuness]

These o-rings seems pretty soft. I don't know how tight they should be. I only hand-tight them for now.
Outside of tank:
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Inside of tank:
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[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

They don't need to be super-tight. Just tight enough for that outer seal to squish out against the alum washer enough to lock the washer in place so it can't move......and "squish" the o-ring into the tank surface enough to create a good seal on an imperfect surface. Once I get the fitting tight and I'm sure of a good seal, I usually reach in there with an auto center punch and put the punch right where the nut and threads meet and hit it a few times to lock that inside nut in place and prevent it from coming loose.

[ohmygosuness]

Been working on the fuel line past week and I think I got it down. Everything is looking good until I started fitting the damn A/C unit. This thing is tough. If I knew it was gonna be such a pain in the ***, I'd put the A/C unit in first before anything else. Ended up having to remove some panels. I'm using Crash's method of routing cooling hose along the sides of the car. Unfortunately, one of the coolant lines is interfering with the evaporator. I may have to reroute only the hot line (smaller tube?) through the outside and the cold line through the tunnel just so the evaporator can sit where FFR recommended. Feels like I'm taking 2 steps forward and 3 steps backward :D

Shane, seals are working good so far. I tested with water while washing out plastic debris from drilling. No leak. Also locked the threads with a hole puncher. If I remember correctly, I may have ordered the seals from you when I first got the GTM kit a while back. Oh well, now I have a set of spare :)

[Shoeless]

Feels like I'm taking 2 steps forward and 3 steps backward

You just summed up exactly what the GTM build is all about LOL. You’ll also enjoy thinking you finished certain items only to find out you get to redo it for the 5th time because something else interferes with it down the road :cool:

On a serious note, you get really good solving challenges in a car we don’t have much room to add things.

[ohmygosuness]

You just summed up exactly what the GTM build is all about LOL. You’ll also enjoy thinking you finished certain items only to find out you get to redo it for the 5th time because something else interferes with it down the road :cool:

On a serious note, you get really good solving challenges in a car we don’t have much room to add things.

I was fighting the A/C again last night. Turns out, with a bit more persuasion, I was able to fit the A/C without removing coolant lines (that I've already taken apart). Now I'm putting all the coolant lines back to how it was. Love it.

Lesson learned: I'm not going to button anything down until the day I start the car LOL

[ohmygosuness]

To my astonishment, evaporator blower also fits. But I somehow doubt that I can squeeze the battery in there? Also, it looks like I'm gonna have to cast a spell to make the blower cover fit since I have a brake line going across it.
213705

The coolant lines going around the car seems to fit good in this orientation. But there's a rising concern in my head that fuel tanks won't fit without a fight.
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I just need to route the water pump to heater core then back to surge tank, then the car is pretty much ready for its first start! (once I get my ECU).
Why is it that the more things I install in this car, the more concerns I have?? But somehow fulfilling at the same time.

[beeman]

I really like the Braille AGM batteries, I have 3 now in different vehicles. Have the 3121 in the GTM, actually in the tunnel since my coolant pipes are outside the cockpit. Check the measurements, should fit in your battery location. Fires up the LS3 without flinching.

https://braillebattery.com/batteries/b3121-braille-lightweight-advanced-agm-racing-battery/

https://braillebattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/B3121_Blackwebsite_2048x2048.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

You really can't use that plastic blower cover. As you can probably see, there's no way to get it in there.....and even if you could, there's not a practical way to seal it up for it to work correctly.....and the worst part is that the blower would be sucking in all of the hot air from inside the tunnel and blowing it into the cockpit.

The fuel tanks?.....yeah, unless you have custom alum tanks made to fit around those coolant lines, I don't see any other way you're going to get tanks to fit.

[ohmygosuness]

I really like the Braille AGM batteries, I have 3 now in different vehicles. Have the 3121 in the GTM, actually in the tunnel since my coolant pipes are outside the cockpit. Check the measurements, should fit in your battery location. Fires up the LS3 without flinching.

https://braillebattery.com/batteries/b3121-braille-lightweight-advanced-agm-racing-battery/

https://braillebattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/B3121_Blackwebsite_2048x2048.jpg

That one looks pretty good. Also reasonably priced! I'll check measurements when I get home. Thanks!

[ohmygosuness]

You really can't use that plastic blower cover. As you can probably see, there's no way to get it in there.....and even if you could, there's not a practical way to seal it up for it to work correctly.....and the worst part is that the blower would be sucking in all of the hot air from inside the tunnel and blowing it into the cockpit.

The fuel tanks?.....yeah, unless you have custom alum tanks made to fit around those coolant lines, I don't see any other way you're going to get tanks to fit.

I had no idea they were planning to use the air from the tunnel. I may have to find a way to route the air from the blower to elsewhere.

I'll try to figure something out with the fuel tanks LOL. Worst case scenario, I'll route it behind the fuel tanks instead. But that's having few more bends/elbows than I like.

[ohmygosuness]

Do any of you route the cylinder heads' vent tube to radiator's vent (like in FFR manual)? Or do you route it directly to the top of Surge tank and cap the vent on radiator. I'm using Shane's relocation bracket so it's highest point in the system. It makes more sense to route all the vent there directly.

Edit: I think I have a solution. I'll T up the vents on the head and route it directly to the top of surge tank. Also I'll run another line from the radiator vent to surge tank.

[Shoeless]

Because you elected to get Shane's expansion tank relocation bracket, that is how the highest point in your coolant system. You should route those steam ports to the top port on the surge tank.

[ohmygosuness]

Got quite a few things out of the way this weekend. Also, I finally got my ECU.
Passenger side tank seems to fit good even with coolant lines. Driver side not so much. I might have to make spacer or something for driver side tank cover to fit.
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Made a hole for the crossover.
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wrapped the exhaust. Eventually, when the body is ready to be put on, I MAY ceramic coat it.
214046

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Do any of you route the cylinder heads' vent tube to radiator's vent (like in FFR manual)? Or do you route it directly to the top of Surge tank and cap the vent on radiator. I'm using Shane's relocation bracket so it's highest point in the system. It makes more sense to route all the vent there directly.

Edit: I think I have a solution. I'll T up the vents on the head and route it directly to the top of surge tank. Also I'll run another line from the radiator vent to surge tank.

Once air gets trapped at the top of the radiator, there will be no where for it to go. If you route a hose from the upper rad thru the tunnel to the surge tank, the air would have to go down into the tunnel and then up to the tank....and it's not going to do that. We always install a short hose with a petcock attached to the port at the top of the radiator. Run the engine, shut it down, let it cool, open up the cap on the surge tank (so there isn't pressure or vac in the system) and then crack the petcock open to release the air trapped in the radiator until coolant comes out. Tighten the petcock and repeat for the first few times you run the engine.....and eventually you should get to the point where there is no more air in the system that can get into the radiator.

[ohmygosuness]

Is there a "dash" that comes with the vintage air? Like something to turn on the A/C and adjust the temperature.

[ohmygosuness]

Is there a "dash" that comes with the vintage air? Like something to turn on the A/C and adjust the temperature.

I may have to outsource it. Can someone confirm if this is the right one? Or if there's a part number on these. I would appreciate it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-491613?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-restoration&gclid=Cj0KCQjwucDBBhDxARIsANqFdr1Hyg7zaFiMs45sVNRl 07h0ASMVyX9N8AY5u1FgvJC2OdnKDDMPm8waAi8GEALw_wcB

[Shoeless]

I have one of these brand new that I can give you a heck of a better price than than. I only cut and then spliced a few wires as I was trying to integrate something else with it before I decided to go with a Dakota Digital version. I am headed out of town for the weekend, but hit me up if interested in it.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I may have to outsource it. Can someone confirm if this is the right one? Or if there's a part number on these. I would appreciate it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-491613?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-restoration&gclid=Cj0KCQjwucDBBhDxARIsANqFdr1Hyg7zaFiMs45sVNRl 07h0ASMVyX9N8AY5u1FgvJC2OdnKDDMPm8waAi8GEALw_wcB

Just by the photo, this looks like the correct one:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-491210-rua?rrec=true

[ohmygosuness]

I just emailed FFR for one but I doubt they'll deliver since it has been a few years. If they don't respond in a couple weeks or so, I don't mind buying yours, Shoeless. Unless mine shows itself. I went through all the GTM boxes twice and couldn't find it.

[ohmygosuness]

Started the car for the first time tonight. No coolant leak. Had a minor fuel leak from an AN fitting that I forgot to tighten down. Not as impressive as some of you (looking at you Shoeless) seasoned builders but still feels pretty good. Next step I'm going to ship my exhaust headers to Swain Tech to have them ceramic coated.
https://youtube.com/shorts/qv-nsyCD2zg

[Shoeless]

Started the car for the first time tonight. No coolant leak. Had a minor fuel leak from an AN fitting that I forgot to tighten down. Not as impressive as some of you (looking at you Shoeless) seasoned builders but still feels pretty good. Next step I'm going to ship my exhaust headers to Swain Tech to have them ceramic coated.
https://youtube.com/shorts/qv-nsyCD2zg

Nice work, CONGRATS on the first start, that's a fun milestone when she starts to make noise :cool:

[ohmygosuness]

Nice work, CONGRATS on the first start, that's a fun milestone when she starts to make noise :cool:

I'm using the starter you recommended. Seems to work well and sounds aggressive.

[Shoeless]

I'm using the starter you recommended. Seems to work well and sounds aggressive.

I'm super happy with this starter!! From the install to performance. Simply rotate the motor on the mount plate to the position needed to fit in place, wire it up, shim properly, and install. Thing is a little beast :p much better than stock!!!