Roadster wiring advice for Coyote Gen2 + Accessories

[dbo_texas]

I'm at a point in my build where I now have pretty much all the major sub-systems test fit and it's time for me to start prepping for running the wiring harnesses and accessories - this is probably the #1 thing on the build that I'm dreading. Before I dive in, I wanted to ask some questions from the forum. Any advice before I start would be appreciated - tips, things to watch out for or pay special attention to, things to make the wiring cleaner, etc. Basically any advice you have and want to share, let's hear it.

First - some details on my specific build and some of the "accessories" or add-ons I'm planning. Not sure if this impacts some responses but here we go:


My battery is mounted in the front (Breeze battery box)
will use master cutoff switch mounted to front of trans tunnel; want to wire this so that accessory circuit (Coyote computer, clock) don't reset when cutoff switch is removed
planning to mount Coyote power distribution box to the firewall (will use EdwardB's 25th anniversary build as a guide for layout of the Coyote components)
planning to swap to all LED lighting --> not sure what I need to do that yet (haven't researched it)
using Russ Thompson turn signal w/ IDIDIT Relay for high-beam/flasher control on stalk
still considering adding a heater (haven't purchased yet)
considering adding fresh air vents to the footboxes w/ the electric fans - would need to add switch to dash for this (maybe under the dash so it is hidden - TBD)
will use the radiator fan pwm controller so it doesn't run all the time on high (Maradyne unit)
want to add 3 USB ports (two at front of trans tunnel near master cutoff switch, and another inside the trunk cockpit cubby with enough current to power a Bluetooth speaker...yeah yeah I know I won't be able to hear it over the exhaust....but I'm going to provision for it anyways) - I'm OK if these only have power when key is in the ACC position or running
want to add courtesy LED lighting to cockpit cubby and both footwells (both controlled by same on/off switch on dash)
considering adding LED brake lights to both roll bars (TBD)
not sure if the kit comes with a reverse light (or if needed for registration in Texas), so for now this is TBD until I do some research to see if it is needed



Here are some of my questions, in no particular order:

Battery recommendation? I do know this has been debated a lot on the forum - I just wasn't sure if there was a consensus on a specific type/brand that is known by all to work well, or others to specifically stay away from.
Any areas of the RF harness or Coyote harness that can be dieted based on my list above?
Any advice on how to set up my fuse panel based on the accessories I want listed above? I'm not sure if the provided fuse panel has enough outputs for all the accessories listed. If I need to get a larger one, any recommendations? Do do plan to make this removable in order to access the windshield post on the DS.
for ignition, I am definitely using the provided Coyote Clutch safety switch. I think I also want to install a neutral safety switch in parallel to the clutch safety switch, so that I can start the car without pressing in the clutch
Got any good thread links on LED conversion (all lights, not just the headlights) - please share a link if you found it useful or any other details I should know
For the headlights, depending on my paint scheme I may do LED headlights with halo DRLs. But instead of white DRL halos that flash amber w/ the turn signal, I want the DRL to be amber (like the Kia Telluride). Anyone know if this is possible? I've seen plenty of headlights with white halos that blink amber with the turn signal, but I haven't seen any that are amber for DRL and also flash amber w/ the turn signal. I'd want a switch on the dash to turn the DRL function on/off too.
Any specific advice for Coyote wiring or areas in the FFR Coyote Install Instructions that are lacking?

[edwardb]

For someone was admits to dreading wiring, you have an aggressive list! The first thing that occurs to me is to start simple and get the basics working, e.g. the overall wiring harness with the usual circuits, the Coyote wired and running, etc. With that in place, layer on the added features. I see builds that are so complicated that troubleshooting even the simple stuff becomes difficult. Having said that, responses to your questions.

1. As I’m sure you know, the Breeze front battery mount instructions specify a group 51 battery. There are plenty of options as long as you get that size. For the two Roadsters I built with the same mounts, I used an Optima Batteries 8071-167 yellow top battery. You’ll get tons of feedback on that choice, and most negative. I never had issues with mine, but maybe I was lucky. Not recommending one, just reporting what I used. What I do recommend though is select a battery that has the positive lead on the RH side as mounted. The LH side is close to the frame and easy to short with the cable and/or tools.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/.highres/IMG_4036_zpse5g2f9dk.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/.highres/IMG_4036_zpse5g2f9dk.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

2. Not really necessary to diet anything on the Coyote harness if you place the components where the harness has somewhere to go. I’d recommend leaving it alone. For the RF harness, maybe diet off the hot rod branch. But unless you have an unusual layout, I’d leave it alone as well.

3. Based on your list, you’re going to run out of circuits in the standard RF panel. Two ways to approach this. Easy – install an add-on panel with additional circuits. There are multiple products out there just for this purpose. I’ll let others hopefully recommend something specific that they have experience with. A little more complicated – add your own circuits. I’ve done that on my last couple builds by installing a battery (always on) bus bar and an ignition switched bus bar. Then added circuits that go through resettable circuit breakers as appropriate. My truck build has about every added feature possible and no add-on panel. But it takes some effort and planning. You say something about “adding a larger one.” Meaning replace the RF panel with something else? I wouldn’t go that route. Deep end stuff. In my experience, the recommended panel location works just fine and as long as you don’t put anything in the chassis/dash opening directly above the panel, you can reach the windshield screws on that side without taking anything apart. Related, you may want to consider the mod many of us have done to tap the windshield holes for 1/2-13 bolts. Much easier to install during fitting, mock-up, etc. I add washers and lock nuts at final assembly. But some apparently don’t find that necessary.

4. Adding a neutral safety switch with the Coyote clutch switch seems possible but I haven’t tried it. I can think of two approaches (none with experience!): Abandon the Coyote clutch switch, tie the two Coyote harness wires together (e.g. always on), use the RF start wire vs. the Coyote start wire, use the kit clutch safety switch with another leg to the neutral switch so either can close and allow the RF start wire to trigger the starter solenoid. It’s an allowable option to not use the Coyote start wire. But I don’t like this option personally. Mainly because the kit version of a clutch safety switch isn’t that great IMO. You only have to slightly push the pedal (like the brake switch) so the clutch is actually still engaged. Not really a true safety. Plus I prefer having the Coyote PCM control the starter solenoid. The second approach, that I think would work is to install the Coyote clutch switch normally and also use the Coyote start wire to the starter solenoid. Normal installation per instructions. Then splice a wire onto each side of the Coyote leads to the clutch switch. Route these two wires to the neutral safety switch. That way either switch can close and allow a start.

5. I’ve done full LED conversions on my last three builds. Really nothing special in my experience. Multiple options for LED headlights that plug right into the RF harness. If you have the standard kit supplied light fixtures for the balance, you can get LED 1157 bulbs that go right in. Has worked for me. Newer kits have the square rear lights that are LED. Several threads with people having backfeed issues with LED conversions and have installed diodes or even given up. Can’t offer anything because it hasn’t happened to me.

6. The headlights that came with my truck have that function – the running lights are white and automatically change to amber with the turn signal. How that’s working is built into the fixtures themselves. It’s also possible to wire them as DRL’s, which I did, which required breaking into the RF harness for the front lights. But the instructions were very specific and I’ll stop there. I think what you’re describing is possible but IMO is going to depend somewhat on whatever fixtures you use.

7. The RF manual covers the basics but won’t help too much on the things you’re adding. The Factory Five Coyote installation instructions are OK. But I always recommend using them in conjunction with the Ford Performance control pack instructions. Together pretty complete. What’s missing from both however (which I don’t understand…) is how to properly hook up the vacuum system for the IMRC function. Multiple threads on that subject. Just make sure you're looking at Gen 2 and not Gen 3. They're different. Hopefully you’ve seen them already and will plumb yours correctly from the start.

Couple other comments from your introduction:

- I’d recommend using the built-in headlight switch courtesy light circuit for your cockpit cubby and footwells. It’s in the RF harness and an easy twist of the headlight switch with no added circuits or switches.

- Nothing special about adding the IDIDIT headlight relay module with the RT turn signal assembly. The relay module hooks to RF headlight wires with one added connection to battery power. The RT pushbutton provides the switching function with one lead to ground and the other to the module. Works great.

- The RF harness has “always on” circuits that can be used for the clock and (highly recommended) the GPS memory function for the speedo. They’re in the dash harness. At least one is marked radio memory, but the same thing. The problem is if you switch off the RF harness at the master disconnect, of course those aren’t going to stay on. An easy solution with the Gen 2 Coyote is the bulkhead connector has HAAT (Hot At All Times) wire(s) that you can route to the clock and speedo. So if you leave the Coyote PDB on the hot side of the master disconnect as recommended, those circuits will always be powered. That’s what I did on my Gen 2 Coyote build and worked perfectly. Unfortunately, Ford removed the HAAT wires from the Gen 3 harness.

That’s probably enough. Good luck.

[dbo_texas]

For someone was admits to dreading wiring, you have an aggressive list! The first thing that occurs to me is to start simple and get the basics working, e.g. the overall wiring harness with the usual circuits, the Coyote wired and running, etc. With that in place, layer on the added features. I see builds that are so complicated that troubleshooting even the simple stuff becomes difficult. Having said that, responses to your questions.

1. As I’m sure you know, the Breeze front battery mount instructions specify a group 51 battery. There are plenty of options as long as you get that size. For the two Roadsters I built with the same mounts, I used an Optima Batteries 8071-167 yellow top battery. You’ll get tons of feedback on that choice, and most negative. I never had issues with mine, but maybe I was lucky. Not recommending one, just reporting what I used. What I do recommend though is select a battery that has the positive lead on the RH side as mounted. The LH side is close to the frame and easy to short with the cable and/or tools.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/.highres/IMG_4036_zpse5g2f9dk.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/.highres/IMG_4036_zpse5g2f9dk.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

2. Not really necessary to diet anything on the Coyote harness if you place the components where the harness has somewhere to go. I’d recommend leaving it alone. For the RF harness, maybe diet off the hot rod branch. But unless you have an unusual layout, I’d leave it alone as well.

3. Based on your list, you’re going to run out of circuits in the standard RF panel. Two ways to approach this. Easy – install an add-on panel with additional circuits. There are multiple products out there just for this purpose. I’ll let others hopefully recommend something specific that they have experience with. A little more complicated – add your own circuits. I’ve done that on my last couple builds by installing a battery (always on) bus bar and an ignition switched bus bar. Then added circuits that go through resettable circuit breakers as appropriate. My truck build has about every added feature possible and no add-on panel. But it takes some effort and planning. You say something about “adding a larger one.” Meaning replace the RF panel with something else? I wouldn’t go that route. Deep end stuff. In my experience, the recommended panel location works just fine and as long as you don’t put anything in the chassis/dash opening directly above the panel, you can reach the windshield screws on that side without taking anything apart. Related, you may want to consider the mod many of us have done to tap the windshield holes for 1/2-13 bolts. Much easier to install during fitting, mock-up, etc. I add washers and lock nuts at final assembly. But some apparently don’t find that necessary.

4. Adding a neutral safety switch with the Coyote clutch switch seems possible but I haven’t tried it. I can think of two approaches (none with experience!): Abandon the Coyote clutch switch, tie the two Coyote harness wires together (e.g. always on), use the RF start wire vs. the Coyote start wire, use the kit clutch safety switch with another leg to the neutral switch so either can close and allow the RF start wire to trigger the starter solenoid. It’s an allowable option to not use the Coyote start wire. But I don’t like this option personally. Mainly because the kit version of a clutch safety switch isn’t that great IMO. You only have to slightly push the pedal (like the brake switch) so the clutch is actually still engaged. Not really a true safety. Plus I prefer having the Coyote PCM control the starter solenoid. The second approach, that I think would work is to install the Coyote clutch switch normally and also use the Coyote start wire to the starter solenoid. Normal installation per instructions. Then splice a wire onto each side of the Coyote leads to the clutch switch. Route these two wires to the neutral safety switch. That way either switch can close and allow a start.

5. I’ve done full LED conversions on my last three builds. Really nothing special in my experience. Multiple options for LED headlights that plug right into the RF harness. If you have the standard kit supplied light fixtures for the balance, you can get LED 1157 bulbs that go right in. Has worked for me. Newer kits have the square rear lights that are LED. Several threads with people having backfeed issues with LED conversions and have installed diodes or even given up. Can’t offer anything because it hasn’t happened to me.

6. The headlights that came with my truck have that function – the running lights are white and automatically change to amber with the turn signal. How that’s working is built into the fixtures themselves. It’s also possible to wire them as DRL’s, which I did, which required breaking into the RF harness for the front lights. But the instructions were very specific and I’ll stop there. I think what you’re describing is possible but IMO is going to depend somewhat on whatever fixtures you use.

7. The RF manual covers the basics but won’t help too much on the things you’re adding. The Factory Five Coyote installation instructions are OK. But I always recommend using them in conjunction with the Ford Performance control pack instructions. Together pretty complete. What’s missing from both however (which I don’t understand…) is how to properly hook up the vacuum system for the IMRC function. Multiple threads on that subject. Just make sure you're looking at Gen 2 and not Gen 3. They're different. Hopefully you’ve seen them already and will plumb yours correctly from the start.

Couple other comments from your introduction:

- I’d recommend using the built-in headlight switch courtesy light circuit for your cockpit cubby and footwells. It’s in the RF harness and an easy twist of the headlight switch with no added circuits or switches.

- Nothing special about adding the IDIDIT headlight relay module with the RT turn signal assembly. The relay module hooks to RF headlight wires with one added connection to battery power. The RT pushbutton provides the switching function with one lead to ground and the other to the module. Works great.

- The RF harness has “always on” circuits that can be used for the clock and (highly recommended) the GPS memory function for the speedo. They’re in the dash harness. At least one is marked radio memory, but the same thing. The problem is if you switch off the RF harness at the master disconnect, of course those aren’t going to stay on. An easy solution with the Gen 2 Coyote is the bulkhead connector has HAAT (Hot At All Times) wire(s) that you can route to the clock and speedo. So if you leave the Coyote PDB on the hot side of the master disconnect as recommended, those circuits will always be powered. That’s what I did on my Gen 2 Coyote build and worked perfectly. Unfortunately, Ford removed the HAAT wires from the Gen 3 harness.

That’s probably enough. Good luck.

Wow Paul - thanks for the detailed response! Tons of great info in here and plenty to keep me busy. I really appreciate the time you took to provide such thorough input! I do plan to tap the windshield holes to make install easier, as you and others have done. I have the Ford Performance Control Pack Instructions and will be reading through them as well as the FFR instructions before I start anything, so I know what's what.

[facultyofmusic]

Heads up the LED conversion kit from breeze is on sale right now (idk how long the sale lasts). https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/led-exterior-lighting-kit/. I got it and loved it.

EDIT: If you plan to use FFR's provided LED tail lights then the above kit isn't what you want. You want this one instead and it's currently not on sale: https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/led-exterior-front-lighting-kit-for-mk4-roadsters-that-came-with-rectangular-led-taillights/

[dbo_texas]

Heads up the LED conversion kit from breeze is on sale right now (idk how long the sale lasts). https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/led-exterior-lighting-kit/. I got it and loved it.

EDIT: If you plan to use FFR's provided LED tail lights then the above kit isn't what you want. You want this one instead and it's currently not on sale: https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/led-exterior-front-lighting-kit-for-mk4-roadsters-that-came-with-rectangular-led-taillights/

Good to know thanks. My kit is from 2019 which I believe is before they switched to the rectangular LED tail lights. If I don't want to use the headlights Breeze has in the package, I would probably call them up and see if they could provide the kit minus the head lights.

[Fixit]

I did many of the functions you describe above...
Take a look here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-40-Watt-Garage-6200-miles&p=347757&viewfull=1#post347757)

[dbo_texas]

I did many of the functions you describe above...
Take a look here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-40-Watt-Garage-6200-miles&p=347757&viewfull=1#post347757)

Nice work - looks like you have some great details that I might "borrow" for my build :) I like the switches in the cubby light and trunk.

[JohnK]

My build is also pre-25th anniversary so I don't have the rectangular tail lights. I bought the LED kit from Watson's Streetworks (https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/cobra-light-upgrade-package/), which appears to be similar to the one Breeze sells. I suspect they all get it from the same source. There were a couple items in the Watson's Streetworks kit that I didn't plan to use, so I priced out the individual components that I did want and it turned out cheaper to just buy the whole kit. I replaced the lenses with Lucas tri-bar lenses, and the LED lights work nicely in those.