steering rack inner tie rod on MK4

[LuckyWinner]

Do you still have to cut off a inch on each tie rod, on the MK4 complete kit, to get everything to line up?

[jlfernan]

Yes. I took about 3/4" off of mine. I would start there and take off more if needed.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2561/jorgec.jpg (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=111)

[emac]

Didn't see that in the manual.....I was eyeballing the alignment and notice it seemed to run out of room. I figured my eyes were off. I guess not. Thanks for the post, this is the first time I have heard about this.

[AC Bill]

There is a proper length tie rod end available, where no trimming is needed. It seems the supplied one is to long, as many if sticking with it need to cut it. You also have to watch you don't get the shorter one, often used on the spline drive set ups.

[SirAustin]

I am glad this thread was started as well! I cranked and cranked on my front tie rods to get them to come in, I gave up and have not returned to this part yet. Is this a good fix to the problem?
https://factoryfiveparts.com/product.php?productid=16237&cat=255&page=1

[Lynnhowlyn]

Sounds like it's done by "eyeballing" approx alignment (toe-in) of the front wheel when the tie rods are all connected (with the inner tie rods extensions installed IF going with power steering).

I surprised there doesn't seem to be any "do these measurements and then cut off this much" procedure or process?

Lynn

[3kcarbon]

Get everything in place and measure the toe in befoe you cut anything...

[emac]

Maybe I am missing something here. I have the complete kit, don't you think they should know what length tie rods to include so the wheels can be aligned? Seems kind of basic to me.

[LuckyWinner]

Maybe I am missing something here. I have the complete kit, don't you think they should know what length tie rods to include so the wheels can be aligned? Seems kind of basic to me.

It should be in the manual for sure. I understand if it has to be cut, because the wheel setup is unique. They should just put some directions in the manual for you to follow, maybe not for the gearheads, but for guys like me.

[NICK C]

I have a power steering rack with extenders and was told by Bryan at FFR to not cut unless needed to. As I look at everything with these old eye balls, it looks like I have enough adjustment when everything hits the road. So for now I'm waiting to cut anything. I did go to autozone and buy some shorter tie rod ends that were supposed to remedy the situation, but they were longer than what was supplied. So, i wait for now.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Brought this question over here from another post:


Jeff - any guidance on cutting (shortening) of the inner tie rods - e.g. how to determine how much to cut when using the FFR spindles, a power rack and the extenders?

Or is it truly just "trial-and-error" .... starting with 'just a bit' ( like perhaps 3/4 inch) since once a cut is done, it can't be added back?

Thanks

Lynn

BTW - thanks for the guidance on alignment settings!

I'm reluctant to say "how much" because of the variations among tie rod end and rack manufacturers but I'll tell you how to determine what you need to do.

Measure the depth of threads inside the outer tie rod and mount it to the spindle (don't fully seat it on the taper yet). With the rack centered raise the suspension so that the lower control arms are completely horizontal, as they will be at ride height, and the wheels are pointing straight ahead. Hold the inners up against the outers and make a reference mark on the inner threads where the end of the outer is. From that mark measure outward the distance of the threads inside the inner. Get it? You're just working backwards. This is the maximum length the inners can be before they bottom out. Cut the inner a little shorter (~1/4-3/8") so that it won't bottom out when completely adjusted. As long as that leaves an inch or greater (minimum of 2 times the diameter) of threads from the inner tie rod engaging inside the outer you're golden!

Make sense?

Jeff

[AC Bill]

Maybe I am missing something here. I have the complete kit, don't you think they should know what length tie rods to include so the wheels can be aligned? Seems kind of basic to me.

You would think, since the complete kit pretty well dictates what parts you will be using for the most part. Very odd they chose to supply ones that need to be modified, when there are ones available that don't need to be?

[LuckyWinner]

Well, I've read all the post and now I'm more confused than ever. Its the complete kit, the rack that they gave me, and the spindles that they gave me. Not power, not older spindles, just what they gave me. Someone at FFR needs to let us all know, once and for all what we need to do and post it for all of us to see. It shouldnt be "wait and see" that makes no sense. Its not like every car that leaves the factory is different....this should be a no brainer for them. Love you FFR but tell us what we need to do, once and for all. Just put up a quick post on the Wiki link for all to see.....PLEASE.

[jlfernan]

I could be wrong, but everything is "one size fits all". The rack from FFR I believe has longer tie rods in order to use it with donor spindles. I could be wrong but think I read that somewhere. I suppose it's easier for FFR to buy one type of rack, than to keep two in stock. Same thing goes with a lot of the hardware they send with the complete kit. Most of it is intended for use in a donor build.


http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2561/jorgec.jpg (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=111)

[Jonweisw]

I ended up taking an inch or so off each rod. No problems with the alignment - both when I did it as well as when I had it formally aligned...

Heres the description: http://factory5roadster.wordpress.com/2011/02/14/2-14-11-dash-guts-wiring-trimmed-inner-tie-rod/

[GWL]

I first leveled the chassis, then centered up the steering rack. I am using the Breeze solid aluminum mounts which lowers the power steering rack and allows you to center it up.

I then found the center of the car, ran a center string and completed a rough alignment of the front wheels.

The mark on the left is the bottom of the threads in the tie rod. The hole is a bit deeper. The mark on the right threaded rod is showing the amount of threads inside the tie rod. I cut somewhere in between those two marks, actually a bit closer to the mark on the left. It did turn out to be about 3/4”. Each car, steering rack and mounting may be different so complete your own measurements. Before cutting run a spare lock nut up the threaded rod and use it to clean the threads off by backing it off when completed cutting the rod. I chamfered the rod a bit before backing the nut off. In the end you want as much threaded rod in the tie rods as possible but with enough room to be able to align the wheels in or out a bit. I think you will be toeing the wheels in just a bit later.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt180/GWL-FFR/Mk%204%20Front%20Suspension/SteeringRackSetUp052.jpg

George

[billybobracing]

Both cars I've built with manual steering required no cutting. I've aligned a few with power steering and they all needed different amounts of cutting. I also believe that FFR supplies the parts that they do because of all the different ways these cars can be built.
HTH
Bill