Removable bed

[chuck35truck]

I have seen on the 33 FB page or in this forum where a couple different builds had made the wood bed so that it could be raised up to get to the fuel tank, sensor and pump. I also have my trans cooler in the back under the bed. Unfortunately I cannot find any of these posts.
I am looking to get some pictures on how the bed was hinged to the frame.

Thank you

[Sbda4]

I’m not sure if you are asking about the whole bed, or just the bed floor. I installed the SS bed floor sheet with 10-24 button head screws and riv-nut inserts into the frame tubes. This allows me to remove the whole bed floor to access the fuel tank and other items. One downside complication of this approach is the metal sheet can rattle when the truck is running. I put bedliner on the top surface and raptor coat on the bottom. The bed floor still rattled. After i placed thin foam weatherstrip onto the top of each frame tube, then bolted the bed floor down, the rattle went away.

My build thread is at this link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42139-Greg-s-35-Hot-Rod-Truck&p=483276&viewfull=1#post483276

Sorry, but details of the bed floor are not covered in my build thread.

[edwardb]

This doesn't answer your question. But my thoughts based on my build. I'm assuming you have your kit already and know that SS sheet is heavy but still relatively flexible? Seems it would bend quite a bit when raising and lowering. Attaching a wood bed (or the now optional faux wood aluminum bed which is what I have) would perhaps make it stiffer. But still IMO adds a lot of complexity and I would see it rattling like the previous poster described. I did cutouts in the SS bed for the fuel tank sender and pump since a body panel wraps under the tank and multiple body pieces would have to be taken apart to drop the tank. So I would need to remove pieces of the "wood" bed to service the sender or pump. But not particularly difficult. For the rest, and I have a trans cooler under the bed as well, access from underneath really isn't that bad. I've had to change my battery and it was a little bit of a pain. But doable. Ideally, since everything is new, wouldn't expect to have to do major work on these components for a long time. Seems to me this is a solution that's more work than the problem. But that's just my opinion. Seems to me if you really wanted the bed to be hinged, maybe not even use the SS sheet? The manual seems to indicate it's optional. When I came to that part of my build, did find several builders didn't use it. Then hinge only whatever you use to line the bed.

[Pat Landymore]

Please check my post # 354 to get an idea what I did.

[edwardb]

Please check my post # 354 to get an idea what I did.

Interesting. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31982-Pat%92s-Truck-back-to-the-Turbo-see-post-497&p=445527&viewfull=1#post445527

[chuck35truck]

Please check my post # 354 to get an idea what I did.

Pat, thanks for the link to your bed photos. I could not tell from the photo, but it appears that you did not have a hinge at the front and could lift out the entire bed if you wanted. Is that correct?

[David Hodgkins]

Interesting. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31982-Pat%92s-Truck-back-to-the-Turbo-see-post-497&p=445527&viewfull=1#post445527

Agreed. I might have implemented it differently but the the idea is a good one. For those of us who like to tinker this might be a solid side project.

:)

EDIT: Sorry if that sounded like a dig. It wasn't. I can't tell you how to swim if I ain't been in the water! :)

[Pat Landymore]

Howdy Chuck:

No, I didn’t have a hinge. Initially I had a piece of 90 degree x 1/2 or 3/4” ( can’t recall) aluminum pop riveted to the SS box front as a lip to tuck the wood underneath. On the ultra rough ( think stubble field in winter) streets that haunt my city…the wood would slap up and down quite loudly at the front. So I found some cool little overcentering devices on Amazon and pop riveted those to the front SS panel. Then just flipped the little latches down to put some pressure on the entire wood bed at the front.

So…two overcentering latches at the front, two luggage latches at the rear. About 1-1/2 minutes all in to completely remove the wood bed…including opening the tailgate.

I’d you want images of the overcentering latches…I can take photos and post tomorrow.

Cheers,
Pat

[House Money]

Hi Pat, I would like to see pics of these latches you used. Also, in looking at your post #354 first picture it appears that your wood slats are positioned under the SS front wall, is that correct?

I am working on the bed now and I'm very interested in seeing what others have done.

Gary

[chuck35truck]

Hi Pat, I would like to see pics of these latches you used. Also, in looking at your post #354 first picture it appears that your wood slats are positioned under the SS front wall, is that correct?

I am working on the bed now and I'm very interested in seeing what others have done.

Gary

I would like pictures also, they would be a big help.

Thank you!

[Pat Landymore]

No worries Chuck…later this evening. Out for a beer with a friend right now. Expect to see the photos is 2-3 hrs.
Cheers 🍻

[Pat Landymore]

Here are a couple of photos of the overcentering device I used.

Please let me know if there are other photos you would like.


178286

178287

[Pat Landymore]

Hello House Money:

No, I had them positioned above the SS but below the ( formerly mentioned) full width chunk of 1/2 or 3/4” aluminum angle pop rivited to the stainless front panel. That made something I could just tuck the wood underneath of.

Hope this explains adequately.
Cheers,
Pat

[Pat Landymore]

Here are a couple of photos of how it looked in the completed truck.


178324

178323

[VIRGIN MIKE]

Sorry, I am a bit late to this thread. My solution - tack welded the bed together (front, sides and bottom), trimmed the sides that continued past the bed bottom; covered the frame with insulating foam strips, set the bed on the frame; bonded the bed to the side panels by splitting a copper pipe and sliding over the two pieces. Also cut a hole for battery access

178987


178988

Slide the pipe(s) off and you can remove complete bed with an engine hoist

[chuck35truck]

Thank everyone for all your great advice and ideas. I am going to use them and build my bed. I have got the parts on order. I will post pictures when I get it built.

[Rich H]

rear section of bed is removable 3 bolts and hose clamp for fuel hose to tank, i just use flat stock on top and bottom of stainless sheet to sandwich material, I also relocated battery to black tool box for access

[chuck35truck]

187690187691

Here are 2 pictures of what I finally ended up with. I used a kit from BedWood. They cut the wood exactly like I requested. The wood weighed more than I thought, which resulted in the struts I ordered not being strong enough. I have now learned a lot more about struts. I can send more pictures and answer questions if you need them. I would install stronger struts, but I already have too many holes in the bed. Even though the struts are not strong enough, they do make raising and lowering the bed easier than without them,

[Pat Landymore]

Nice work Chuck…it looks great!
Cheers,
Pat

[DonS]

Chuck, when ordering the wood, did you utilize the dimensions of the steel bottom, that you did not use ? Thanks, Don

[mkassab]

Chuck, when ordering the wood, did you utilize the dimensions of the steel bottom, that you did not use ? Thanks, Don

Don, I used the bed inside measurements. Mine was 58 1/2" L x 49 1/2" W

Mark