Novice question on drivetrain storage

[VKannan]

Hi all,

Forgive what is probably an obvious question to some, but I have no experience with this. My kit is scheduled for completion in mid-March but I found a good deal on a drivetrain package and that will be arriving next week. The motor and transmission come on separate pallets, and the clutch and flywheel and such will all need to be installed.

I was thinking that it might be a good use of time to get a head start and assemble the drivetrain now while I'm waiting for the kit to arrive. My question is, how do I store an engine mated to a transmission until then? Do I just leave the engine on its pallet, bolt up the transmission, and build up a wood structure under the transmission to keep it propped up? Or is there some better way?

Thanks!

[JohnK]

If you have a spot to set it where it's not going to be in the way, you can definitely do that. I wanted to be able to move it around since my garage was somewhat small, so I put it on a rolling cradle like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108490&d=1559952859

[VKannan]

Is it not a problem having the transmission hanging off the end like that in terms of stress on the bell housing bolts?

Thanks for this!


If you have a spot to set it where it's not going to be in the way, you can definitely do that. I wanted to be able to move it around since my garage was somewhat small, so I put it on a rolling cradle like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108490&d=1559952859

[narly1]

That bad boy needs a wheelie bar, LOL.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108490&d=1559952859

Earl

[GTBradley]

The bolts are way stronger than you are imagining. For example, the entire drivetrain can be picked up and maneuvered by just a couple of bolts on the engine. It's also okay to have it all set on the oil pan, though I would check on that if you are using an aluminum pan.

On another subject, if it is going to be a long time, I would suggest a little mist oil in each cylinder thorough the spark plug ports and turn the engine by the crank pulley every so often. More humid atmosphere would need it more often than a dry one.

[Al_C]

Just my 2 cents. I think JohnK's solution is an excellent choice! If you're concerned about weight on the bolts, you could put something under the transmission to support it. My opinion is that it would be just fine without the support. Those bolts are pretty strong.

OK, we're finally to the point I wanted to offer and the reason I'm responding to your post. Do a trial fit on your bellhousing. Does it protrude below the oil pan? If yes, and you want to trim it, now is a good time to do that before it's installed and you have to do the fun stuff under the car. Ask me how I know...

[Jeff Kleiner]

Is it not a problem having the transmission hanging off the end like that in terms of stress on the bell housing bolts?

Thanks for this!

Not a problem.

Jeff

[VKannan]

Great advice, thank you!


Just my 2 cents. I think JohnK's solution is an excellent choice! If you're concerned about weight on the bolts, you could put something under the transmission to support it. My opinion is that it would be just fine without the support. Those bolts are pretty strong.

OK, we're finally to the point I wanted to offer and the reason I'm responding to your post. Do a trial fit on your bellhousing. Does it protrude below the oil pan? If yes, and you want to trim it, now is a good time to do that before it's installed and you have to do the fun stuff under the car. Ask me how I know...

[VKannan]

About this, the package is a GM Connect and Cruise LS3 package and comes fully assembled. Is there still potential for the moisture problem to develop in that case? I live in Arizona so humidity isn't generally an issue, but better safe than sorry if this is a concern.


The bolts are way stronger than you are imagining. For example, the entire drivetrain can be picked up and maneuvered by just a couple of bolts on the engine. It's also okay to have it all set on the oil pan, though I would check on that if you are using an aluminum pan.

On another subject, if it is going to be a long time, I would suggest a little mist oil in each cylinder thorough the spark plug ports and turn the engine by the crank pulley every so often. More humid atmosphere would need it more often than a dry one.

[GTBradley]

LS3? What's that...are you building a Corvette? Just kidding:p. It's always a concern for the engine to sit for long term without moving, so I would advise at least turning it every few months just for good measure. In Arizona I don't think you have much concern for corrosion on the cylinder walls.

[rich grsc]

About this, the package is a GM Connect and Cruise LS3 package and comes fully assembled. Is there still potential for the moisture problem to develop in that case? I live in Arizona so humidity isn't generally an issue, but better safe than sorry if this is a concern.

No, as long as you don't let it out in the rain......no need to do anything extra. Misting oil in the cylinders is not necessary. I'v disassembled engines that sat for years, the internals were just fine. Letting it set is just fine, absolutely no reason to go turning the engine over. :rolleyes:

[GTBradley]

Absolutely!:rolleyes: Wait...I'm going to go ahead and disagree with you there, Rich. You live in Missouri and you've never seen surfaces rust just because they have bare metal exposed to humidity? I agree that it's a smaller concern for today's aluminum engines, but what's the harm in putting a ratchet on the main bolt and forcing engine oil into all the places it likes to go anyway? I mean the thing was designed to turn, not sit.

[rich grsc]

You do what you do. :) I've worked on everything from glow plug RC engines to 855 Cummins diesels. I've torn down engines that sat in old barns for 10-15 yrs, they weren't all rusted up inside. As long as the rain didn't get down the exhaust or intake they were ok. My option is, hand turning the engine, the rings scrape the oil off the cylinder wall. A running engine has oil pressure and will throw oil up on the piston bottom re-oiling the wall. But just how I view the way things happen. Carry on. Oh, my engine sat for almost 2 yrs, doesn't use any oil. Turn or don't turn

[Hoooper]

The bolts are under way more stress when youre putting 500hp through the engine than they are when its just sitting there. You could leave it with just 1 of the bellhousing bolts in and it would be fine sitting like that

No moisture problem, just make sure you keep the ports well covered to keep junk from getting into where it shouldnt

[Alan_C]

For those who do not wish to buy a solution, here is one I made to store my engine and transmission. My current project is not for a Factory Five, but for a Vintage Mustang build I am doing. I have my 2nd Gen Coyote paired with a 6R80 AT on this engine cart I made. I wanted the engine and trans cart to slide in between the legs of the HF engine hoist. I used two HF furniture carts for the platform and wheels. I used a smaller one at the front and a large one at the rear. I then used lag bolts to attach 4x4 lumber to make the sides and another piece across the back that serves to support the transmission. The engine mounts are not for the FF so the mounting approach my be different for others. I used pieces of 4" square tubing for the bases and 3" tubing for the uprights. I positioned everything as I wanted it and then tack welded the uprights to the bases and then final welded on the bench. This setup does everything I need but took time to make especially cutting the square tubing. Fortunately I have a friend with a lot of equipment that made cutting and shaping the square tubing pieces easier.
The welding does require a 200A welder to join the base and upright pieces as the base is 1/4" thick and the uprights about 3/16". A premade purchased cart would be easier, but I already had the furniture carts and 4x4 lumber on hand. Just another approach.

https://i.imgur.com/VfHuKeSl.jpg