Recommended headers.... Must be a cruel joke at FFR

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I refuse to believe that these headers were the best FFR could come up with.. :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

[peterh226]

The variation in headers ( in manufacturing) for the small Chevy is why they changed to the Ram horn exhaust as the recommended setup. I fought the Flowtech 11102FLT and the switched to the Ram Horn. Much better fit but required new plug wires as well.

[Just 1 More]

The variation in headers ( in manufacturing) for the small Chevy is why they changed to the Ram horn exhaust as the recommended setup. I fought the Flowtech 11102FLT and the switched to the Ram Horn. Much better fit but required new plug wires as well.

Is there printed info on the ramhorn set up?

[Just 1 More]

The variation in headers ( in manufacturing) for the small Chevy is why they changed to the Ram horn exhaust as the recommended setup. I fought the Flowtech 11102FLT and the switched to the Ram Horn. Much better fit but required new plug wires as well.

I found it under "parts" and "instructions" .. Not easy to find if you don't know it exists

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It looks like they did away with the plate that mounts to the engine and then offsets the mounts and now you're supposed to bolt the engine mounts to the engine and then offset the frame attachments. If i'm looking at this correctly, the new way of doing it will now put the frame & engine mount right where the electric assist motor goes.
177874

[RuffShod]

It looks like they did away with the plate that mounts to the engine and then offsets the mounts and now you're supposed to bolt the engine mounts to the engine and then offset the frame attachments. If i'm looking at this correctly, the new way of doing it will now put the frame & engine mount right where the electric assist motor goes.
177874

Thats not how mine was. There are 2 rectangular plates that mount to the block and offsets the motor mounts. I scratched my head too.

[Just 1 More]

Thats not how mine was. There are 2 rectangular plates that mount to the block and offsets the motor mounts. I scratched my head too.

Here's how mines set up now
177875177876

[RuffShod]

Thats what my truck looks like. I would change out the hardware to grade 8.

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Thats what my truck looks like. I would change out the hardware to grade 8.

I'm removing everything and starting over, Yes, Grade 8's it will be

[RuffShod]

I got the flowtech headers. Paper thin!!!

Not a lot of choices.

[peterh226]

It looks like they did away with the plate that mounts to the engine and then offsets the mounts and now you're supposed to bolt the engine mounts to the engine and then offset the frame attachments. If i'm looking at this correctly, the new way of doing it will now put the frame & engine mount right where the electric assist motor goes.
177874
It works ok with the electric steering if you have the motor pointing to the oil pan.

[peterh226]

For Gen 1 and at least some Gen 2, the engine mounts are attached to a plate on the block to center the mount on a chassis upright. It is common to adjust the shims to control clearance at the firewall and the front pulley.
FFR realized that the tube headers they had identified were not controlled in manufacturing to tolerances that would work with the Hot Rod. We see this in the passenger side especially. As a result, the switched to the Ram Horns that have much less variation.
In order to get the Ram Horns to fit, they came up with new motor mounts. Instead of having an offset at the block, they mount to the front of the upright. There original instructions had them flipped side to side so the engine was too high. So, make sure that you have the mounts to keep the engine as low as possible. It’s an inch of difference. The position front to back is great and I did not change anything. I’ve got a hyperspark distributor so it has the smaller cap. An HEI cap might not fit.

Hope this helps.
I have a set of original motor mounts and ceramic coated Flowtech headers if anyone is interested!!

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I've got the engine back as far as it will go, transmission pan area is hitting the crossmember. I had to take a small belt sander to the steering rack mount on the passenger side, the one with the bushing. I now have about 1/8" between the crank pully and the rack bushing mount. These things definitely were not made for fancy serpentine drives.

[Mastertech5]

No kidding. I was going to use a SBC engine but I spent a long time looking for a drive system without power steering, almost non-existent. The state couldn't find the donor VIN in any system so no good for a " non-stolen block. That's why I went with the LS3 and got separate AC and alternator set ups low on the engine with the same as JimLev has with a couple of modifications. I was even at Summit in Reno/Sparks and was looking at set ups on engines in their showroom. Was visiting family there. You need something that uses the stock crank pulley dimensions but it's too late for that I guess. All those fancy drive systems stick way out from the block unfortunately.

[Just 1 More]

No kidding. I was going to use a SBC engine but I spent a long time looking for a drive system without power steering, almost non-existent. The state couldn't find the donor VIN in any system so no good for a " non-stolen block. That's why I went with the LS3 and got separate AC and alternator set ups low on the engine with the same as JimLev has with a couple of modifications. I was even at Summit in Reno/Sparks and was looking at set ups on engines in their showroom. Was visiting family there. You need something that uses the stock crank pulley dimensions but it's too late for that I guess. All those fancy drive systems stick way out from the block unfortunately.

The crazy thing, from what others have told me, If you buy a SBC kit from Blueprint engines, this is supposedly the front drive system they include and it somehow fits.

[peterh226]

The crazy thing, from what others have told me, If you buy a SBC kit from Blueprint engines, this is supposedly the front drive system they include and it somehow fits.

My SBC from Blueprint has the March kit. Looks like SKU 21100 without the tensioner. The front of the pulley is 6 1/4 inches from the face of the block at the timing cover. That surface (front of the pulley) is 3 inches from the bulkhead where the steering mounts. It's tight but fits. I'm using a TKO so probably a bit more room inside.