Steering wheel install

[AA-ron]

Hey, quick question and one that I'm sure has been asked before (at least I hope I'm not the only one).
I'd like to install my steering wheel temporarily while I button up things with my dash and switch layout-- all in prep to go-cart.
I know that I'll need to remove it and install it a few more times as I progress along in my build. So here's the question: Because it's an interference fit that is seated by the center bolt, am I safe to draw this all the way in tight knowing that I'll need to be pulling it off and putting it on a few more times? I'm assuming everyone goes through this as I can't imagine anyone would go-cart these things without the wheel completely seated. I'm assuming I'll need to be buying a wheel puller?

[JohnK]

The upper part of the steering shaft is a 2-piece collapsible slip-fit shaft that has two Belleville washers in it to make a tight fit. You can install the steering wheel hub and wheel onto the upper part of the shaft, and just don't install the belleville washers or tighten the set screws in the upper bearing and you should be able to slide the entire upper steering shaft along with the steering wheel hub and steering wheel out as needed. I wouldn't try removing the steering wheel hub from the shaft - that's a pretty tight fit.

[Ted G]

I have installed mine (without center bolt) and removed it many times thus far. For me, it just slips on with a little effort and comes off with a little effort. Like most, I needed to access behind the dash on several occasions and pulling the whole dash is just easiest. Currently, my dash is sitting on my kitchen table as I prepped the Ford Mustang ignition switch. The steering wheel is on the car too.

[Papa]

I've pulled the hub on mine after a full assembly to retrofit a Russ Thompson turn signal assembly. I needed a puller tool, but it came off. The hub fits the D shaped shaft, so no concern about that fit getting too loose.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144740&d=1616198804

Removing the shaft was a different story. I ended up using one of these:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177769&d=1673040986

[rich grsc]

There is no need to torque down the bolt on the steering hub. Just put the bolt in and hand snug it, easy to pull off the hub by hand.

[phileas_fogg]

Hi AA-ron,

A couple of things I learned the hard way...

I pull the upper steering shaft/hub/steering wheel out of the lower shaft as an assembly. Just convenient for me.

You may find the hex bolt bottoms out in the upper shaft before it secures the hub; put a washer under the head of the hex bolt and all will be well. Or you can source & use a shorter bolt.

The upper shaft will rust and look out of place on your brand new car. Paint it before it rusts, BUT ... (1) DO NOT paint the section that goes into the steering wheel hub, (2) DO NOT paint the section that goes through the bearing on the pillow block, and (3) DO NOT paint the section that goes into the lower shaft. The clearances on those three areas are TIGHT and the paint will cause the shaft to bind such that you'll cuss yourself, the car, and everyone you know trying to get it loose.

Use the tiniest smear of penetrating oil you can generate on the upper steering shaft when you slide it into the the lower shaft. This will make removal a whole lot easier, prevent the shaft sections from rusting together, and allow the column to collapse as intended during a crash. Do NOT use WD-40; when the carrier evaporates it will glue the halves together.

If you are using a laminate on your dash (such as 3M's 1080 vinyl) be careful that the base of the steering hub doesn't slide into the laminate & gouge it. This lesson hurt.


John

[JohnK]

The upper shaft will rust and look out of place on your brand new car. Paint it before it rusts, BUT ... (1) DO NOT paint the section that goes into the steering wheel hub, (2) DO NOT paint the section that goes through the bearing on the pillow block, and (3) DO NOT paint the section that goes into the lower shaft. The clearances on those three areas are TIGHT and the paint will cause the shaft to bind such that you'll cuss yourself, the car, and everyone you know trying to get it loose.

Use the tiniest smear of penetrating oil you can generate on the upper steering shaft when you slide it into the the lower shaft. This will make removal a whole lot easier, prevent the shaft sections from rusting together, and allow the column to collapse as intended during a crash. Do NOT use WD-40; when the carrier evaporates it will glue the halves together.

John

Someone (I think it may have been JR Jones) mentioned a product called Fluid Film (https://www.fluid-film.com) in a thread a while back in another thread. It's a lanolin-based corrosion protectant and lubricant that goes on very thin, like oil, and it doesn't dry out. I use this on items that I want to prevent from rusting but don't want the added thickness of paint. I used this on the upper steering shaft, and it helps lubricate it for install and will prevent it from rusting down the road.

[Namrups]

Someone (I think it may have been JR Jones) mentioned a product called Fluid Film (https://www.fluid-film.com) in a thread a while back in another thread. It's a lanolin-based corrosion protectant and lubricant that goes on very thin, like oil, and it doesn't dry out. I use this on items that I want to prevent from rusting but don't want the added thickness of paint. I used this on the upper steering shaft, and it helps lubricate it for install and will prevent it from rusting down the road.

Just a note. Lanolin is considered a release agent when it comes to silicones. IE Silicone will not stick to a surface that has this product on it. In some cases that will be a good thing, in others not so much.

[CraigS]

Agree. I put a tiny bit of bearing grease on the flats of the shaft and tightened the bolt by hand w/ a deep socket but no ratchet.

[GoDadGo]

I installed a steering wheel quick disconnect so popping the wheel on and off has never been an issue.
When we go out and can't keep an eye on the car, I lock it in the trunk or take it with me.

[Tooth]

I'm taking some notes here. :)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Go back to what Rich said…if you run the center bolt down “snug” but don’t crank it down super tight the wheel will be plenty secure temporarily. To remove it take out the bolt and give it some up/down/side to side motion to walk it back off. When you’re ready to make it permanent crank it down—-from then on you’ll need a puller like Papa Dave showed.

Jeff

[BrewCityCobra]

Hi AA-ron,

A couple of things I learned the hard way...

I pull the upper steering shaft/hub/steering wheel out of the lower shaft as an assembly. Just convenient for me.

You may find the hex bolt bottoms out in the upper shaft before it secures the hub; put a washer under the head of the hex bolt and all will be well. Or you can source & use a shorter bolt.

The upper shaft will rust and look out of place on your brand new car. Paint it before it rusts, BUT ... (1) DO NOT paint the section that goes into the steering wheel hub, (2) DO NOT paint the section that goes through the bearing on the pillow block, and (3) DO NOT paint the section that goes into the lower shaft. The clearances on those three areas are TIGHT and the paint will cause the shaft to bind such that you'll cuss yourself, the car, and everyone you know trying to get it loose.

Use the tiniest smear of penetrating oil you can generate on the upper steering shaft when you slide it into the the lower shaft. This will make removal a whole lot easier, prevent the shaft sections from rusting together, and allow the column to collapse as intended during a crash. Do NOT use WD-40; when the carrier evaporates it will glue the halves together.

If you are using a laminate on your dash (such as 3M's 1080 vinyl) be careful that the base of the steering hub doesn't slide into the laminate & gouge it. This lesson hurt.


John

So quick question on the rust front.

Understand from your post that the "inner" collapsible shaft (the one that attaches to the hub) is steel and will need to be coated if you don't want it to surface rust.

But what about the rest of the assembly ("outer" collapsible shaft, the shaft running between the pillow bearing and the power steering rack, and the two universal joints)? Are those stainless or do i need to coat those as well? I just ask because from many of the photos I have seen seem to show people leaving them uncoated - but I may be missing something. Would hate to have all of that surface rust when it can be avoided.

177829

Appreciate you bringing that point up.

[Namrups]

Coated mine with clear Sharkhide.

[Papa]

Coated mine with clear Sharkhide.

I did the same for all the bare metal parts and they show no rust after three years. Simply apply once a year.

[nucjd19]

I did the same for all the bare metal parts and they show no rust after three years. Simply apply once a year.

Me too... Sharkhide. Got to keep it sparkly :)

[AC Bill]

But what about the rest of the assembly ("outer" collapsible shaft, the shaft running between the pillow bearing and the power steering rack, and the two universal joints)? Are those stainless .

Only the upper shaft was susceptible to rust, the lower shaft and joints are all stainless steel. Rust not an issue in over a decade.