Heater hose and EFI harness routing

[mladen]

Hey all,

I have a Blueprint 427 EFI engine and the FFR heater/defroster, and I'm at the point of installing the engine. Would love ideas on how to route the EFI harness (mainly concerned with the heat here) and hoses for the heater/defroster (have zero ideas about where these should go).

[Ducky2009]

Think about a 4-way heater valve, to cut off the hot water circulation in the summer. I removed the vacuum control and used the FFR supplied "Pull" control.

https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74809-Heater-Valve/dp/B000C2QSVQ/ref=asc_df_B000C2QSVQ?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79852150005060&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583451676566893&psc=1

[narly1]

Consider running studs instead of bolts on your intake manifold. You can then use a P-clamp and additional nut on the extra exposed thread on each stud to tie down the injector wiring.

Earl

[mladen]

Think about a 4-way heater valve, to cut off the hot water circulation in the summer. I removed the vacuum control and used the FFR supplied "Pull" control.

https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74809-Heater-Valve/dp/B000C2QSVQ/ref=asc_df_B000C2QSVQ?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79852150005060&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583451676566893&psc=1

Oh interesting. What's the advantage over the default valve provided with the kit? I assumed that would also shut of the supply.

[Norm B]

With EFI you need two ECT sensor ports. One for the EFI and one for your temp gage on the dash. Both of these should be from the front of the intake manifold where the coolant temp is the hottest and the most accurate indication of what's going on in the engine. Normally there are two ports on the intake. One on the left and one on the right behind the thermostat housing. If you are running a heater, the one on the right gets the feed line for that. A T type fitting in this port allows for an ECT sensor to be used as well as the heater feed line however, with the normal heater control valve, coolant flow is shut off past this sensor when the heater is off and the temperature reading is not accurate (reads way lower than actual). A four way (bypass) valve allows the coolant flow to continue by connecting the heater feed line to the return line inside the valve when the heater is off.
I made a bypass block that connects the feed line and return line at all times and used the FFR supplied heater control valve. The block has a 1/4 inch port that connects the feed to the return line so coolant is flowing past the sensor regardless of heater control position. I used this port for the gage on the dash. It reads slightly hotter than the EFI sensor that is in the left manifold port.
I know! The explanation is as clear as mud. Here's a picture.

HTH

Norm

[CraigS]

ARP has a nice set of intake manifold studs w/ washers and nuts. Torqueing the nuts onto the studs is so much more accurate than torquing bolts into aluminum heads. Also plan on at least 6 cycles of run to operating temp, shut off, cool to ambient, and torque them again. That is the # of cycles it usually takes me until no nuts turn further. So set your wiring hold downs on the studs but don't install a nut until all torque cycles are complete. Also see this type of insulation. It works really nicely for already installed wire, tubeing, etc and comes in several diameters.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010405

[Avalanche325]

I ran my heater hoses on the 3/4" tubes on the side.. I got that idea form someone on the forum. It keeps them mostly out of site. My heater valve is in that silver enclosure. I have an electric valve.177767

[rich grsc]

I hid mine under the fender, entered behind the dash at the end of it.
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[Ducky2009]

I found these clamps in the electrical department at Home Depot. Mine is a Coyote but would work on yours too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1083&attachmentid=96861