Extremely hard clutch pedal

[Papa t]

Building a ‘65 Coupe and trying to adjust the mechanical clutch with no luck. The engine and transmission were purchased together from a forum vendor. The power train package was a T56 mounted on a ford coyote. Power train has been installed and engine has been started. My question is can the transmission be removed without taking out the engine. Not sure what the problem is but believe it’s internal between the clutch and the transmission. The clutch is extremely hard to push and will not disengage at max travel. Please advise. Thanks

[Fbird]

I installed my engine and trans separate. It can be done. There isn’t much room to wiggle things around. It is a little bit of a dance. Remove trans from bell, push back trans as far as it goes, remove bell and rotate to drop push out of way, drop trans, curse bit, and then have a beer. Repeat the dance to reinstall. Could not get trans up there without removing the bell.

This posting has some helpful hints I wish I would have used. The idea of using dowel pins to help guid the trans are a great idea. Wish I could offer more. I know if the cable is correct and locked down so it doesn’t slip, I would guess something is awry inside. I am sure the others with more experience will have better advice to offer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44492-Transmission-removal-and-repair&highlight=Transmission+removal+repair

[Jeff Kleiner]

TKX behind a Coyote can be removed from the Coupe but I can’t speak for the T56. Check their specs to see how close they are in overall length.

Jeff

[Papa t]

First build of many different cars I didn’t marry the trans to the engine myself. To say I’m little pi_ _ ed is an understatement. Jeff, looked at a video between the tkx and t56 and the t56 is several inches longer. Thanks.

[i.e.427]

Before you start ripping out the transmission, how about showing us the clutch cable, the routing and the attachment on either end. It may be something simple.

[michael everson]

If the clutch arm moves in the transmission, there isn't really much inside there that can go wrong. Either you have a really stiff clutch or there is something wrong with your cable or routing. First thing I would try is a genuine Ford Cable from Mike Forte. Never would have guessed a cable would make such a difference until I tried it.
Mike

[Papa t]

Thanks Mike. Mike is where the engine package came from. Planning to talk to him tomorrow. Hopefully, it’s the cable.

[michael everson]

Did the cable come from him or FFR. Ford cables do not have a threaded adjuster on the end.
Mike

[Jeff Kleiner]

In comparison to the kit supplied cable an OEM Ford cable reduces effort by an order of magnitude however as Mike Everson said they do not have any adjustment at the fork end. You solve the lack of adjustment on the cable by using a firewall adjuster. This ends up being a much smoother setup in addition to being easier to adjust.

Jeff

[Papa t]

I have one on my Cobra. Thanks

[David Williamson]

At least on my early Gen 3 coupe the fire wall adjuster did not fit, the frame tubing is in the way. I got a OEM Ford cable that has an adjuster at the fork end, I did have to put a spacer in to get it to work. As noted above it made a big difference. Mine is a Dart 363 TKO-600 so a different drive train.
David W

[Papa t]

Thanks for the reply. I am afraid of the same thing on my Daytona. Will call Mike Fortes this morning.