Final Adjustments and Completion Date

[Junbug]

I just got the email from FFR that my kit’s completion is coming up in the next few weeks (ordered 6/27/22). I have until the end of this week to make any final adjustments/changes. Below are the basic details for my build. Also any current estimates on delivery dates based off of estimated completion dates would be appreciated! Will be shipping through Stewart and I understand I need to contact them once FFR says my kit is ready.

MK VI with powder coated frame and body cut outs
4.6L Eng/Trans mounts (Ordering gen 3 Coyote with TKX from Mike Forte)
Coyote Full length Ball header assembly
IRS rear end
IRS parts kit
2018 IRS 3.55 center section and spindles
31 spline 2015 IRS 10.50” driveshaft
Coyote power steering kit
Front lower arms
FFR GPS Vintage Gauge kit
Gen 3 Coyote install kit
Wilwoods Front and Rear
Vinyl seats
Carbon fiber dash
Clutch Quadrant cable assembly
14” leather steering wheel
Wipers, Sun Visors, Wind Wings
Passenger Roll Bar

I don’t foresee needing any changes but please let me know if I’ve missed something obvious.
I also have a spreadsheet going with all the “other” stuff I plan to order/install based on reading all your threads!
Thanks!

[GoDadGo]

Consider getting the leather seats.
They just look better.
Good Luck!

[Tbev]

Don't have Mike put the power steering pump on the coyote if you are ordering the power steering kit from FFR. The Coyote power steering kit from FFR includes the pump. You will end up with two power steering pumps. Don't ask me how I know......Anyone need a power steering pump, new? :rolleyes:

[Mike.Bray]

Ditto on the leather seats.

Upgrade to the hydraulic cutch over the cable.

[GTBradley]

This''ll get the conversation started...How is hydraulic clutch an upgrade?:confused: At best I would call it preference. The cable works fine with no added effort to actuate, provided you use the heavier cable and is a cheaper option.

I would suggest you get the anti-sway bar mounting hardware for the IRS. It's just a couple of brackets that allow you to easily add the bar later. Also, have you got your fuel system on order? That's something you'll work on fairly early in the build.

[Mike.Bray]

How is hydraulic clutch an upgrade?:confused: At best I would call it preference. The cable works fine with no added effort to actuate, provided you use the heavier cable and is a cheaper option.

I've had both in various cars and just prefer the feel of the hydraulic, especially with a heavy clutch. And I'm going say the hydraulic is more reliable than a cable, speaking from experience (but not using heavier upgraded cables). A hydraulic clutch system is no different than a hydraulic brake system. Yes it can have a failure but not likely. Yes, probably a preference.

Additional information: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44588-Hydraulic-clutch-vs-manual&highlight=clutch+cable

[Jryasko]

Ditto on the hydraulic clutch. Get the Forte setup. Even the heavy cable may be better, but I know several builders who have replaced multiple cables.

[Madfor67]

This''ll get the conversation started...How is hydraulic clutch an upgrade?:confused: At best I would call it preference. The cable works fine with no added effort to actuate, provided you use the heavier cable and is a cheaper option.

I would suggest you get the anti-sway bar mounting hardware for the IRS. It's just a couple of brackets that allow you to easily add the bar later. Also, have you got your fuel system on order? That's something you'll work on fairly early in the build.

Mine is gen 2 coyote and it initially came with a cable clutch. I felt like I did 300lbs squats with just my left leg after driving it. During my rebuild I upgraded to a hydraulic clutch and the effort is reduced by more than 50%. Definitely get the hydraulic clutch.

[Ted G]

Leather seats is a must in my opinion. Cooler, better looking, and they are really well made with good leather!

Depending on where you live (humidity and rain) and what registration requirements there are, I would reconsider the wipers. I know a lot of guys that just remove the wipers after they install because they often sit too high on the windshield. It's also not to likely that you'll be driving in rain (California guy here).

[Jeff Kleiner]

The Wilwood pedal box quadrant setup with the kit supplied cable is miserable HOWEVER if you replace that cable with an OEM Ford one it’s like butter…smooth and cuts down the effort by an order of magnitude. Forte has Ford cables.

Jeff

[GTBradley]

I would tend to agree that the original cable was trouble waiting to happen, but with the better cable there is no added effort over hydraulic. I had to oil mine and it was unmanageable prior to that, but I wouldn't go hydraulic at this point. I've been reading about slave cylinders that go bad inside the bell housing too, that is not an easy repair! Go whatever direction you like but if cost is of concern I'd stick with cable.

[Papa]

Call Stewart ASAP! Don't wait until the order is ready to pick up as it will take Stewart a couple of weeks to coordinate a truck to put your kit on.

[Tbev]

When I was ordering my kit 2 years ago I remember researching the leather vs standard seat options. Prior to doing the research I had my mind set on leather. My search at the time changed my mind and I went with no leather. Everything I read at the time was that it was a lot of money and the standard seats look just as good. I'm surprised to now read so many people saying just the opposite. Makes me wonder if I made the wrong decision.

[Papa]

When I was ordering my kit 2 years ago I remember researching the leather vs standard seat options. Prior to doing the research I had my mind set on leather. My search at the time changed my mind and I went with no leather. Everything I read at the time was that it was a lot of money and the standard seats look just as good. I'm surprised to now read so many people saying just the opposite. Makes me wonder if I made the wrong decision.

I think this is one of those things that will ultimately boil down to personal preference. I've seen both and they look very similar in my humble opinion.

[JeffP]

Your FFR "completion date" is the week its expected to be assempled/packaged. It tends to be very accurate, so whatever that week falls on, it'll be ready to ship/pickup the end of that week. Definitely contact stewart, no need to wait.

[facultyofmusic]

Congratz! Here are a few things of note:

If you foresee adding sway bars at all I'd get the sway bar mounts from FFR. It's an absolute PITA to retrofit the rear one after the fact. You literally cannot get to the bolt after the rear cockpit wall goes on.

Consider which side pipes you're going with. I went with bare carbon steel and I'm gonna have to just throw them out now because after a year of sitting in the shed they've already rusted and blown out. If I could redo it I'd either get stainless or just remove it from the order for some credit back.

Have you read much into fuel line routing? FFR sends a package for coyote EFI with soft hoses for fuel that goes through the trans tunnel, which, almost everyone agrees is a bad idea. I'd ask to see if they can just skip the coyote EFI components and get your own from breeze.

Ask if you can have a blank trans tunnel top cover. The pre-cut hole rarely aligns with anything and needs to be covered up later anyway. You might as well get a blank one and cut it yourself.

TBH, idk how much FFR is willing to price down if you remove those items from your order. In the spirit of "building it yourself" though, a dollar saved is a dollar spent on better components down the line.

Welcome to the club and hope you have a blast! Can't wait to see your build thread.

[Junbug]

Don't have Mike put the power steering pump on the coyote if you are ordering the power steering kit from FFR. The Coyote power steering kit from FFR includes the pump. You will end up with two power steering pumps. Don't ask me how I know......Anyone need a power steering pump, new? :rolleyes:
Any recommendations of the FFR power steering pump vs Forte’s setup?

[Junbug]

This''ll get the conversation started...How is hydraulic clutch an upgrade?:confused: At best I would call it preference. The cable works fine with no added effort to actuate, provided you use the heavier cable and is a cheaper option.

I would suggest you get the anti-sway bar mounting hardware for the IRS. It's just a couple of brackets that allow you to easily add the bar later. Also, have you got your fuel system on order? That's something you'll work on fairly early in the build.
Great points Bradley. I tested both the hydraulic clutch vs the cable clutch at the build school. I personally didn’t see the need to upgrade to the hydraulic clutch.

[Junbug]

Congratz! Here are a few things of note:

If you foresee adding sway bars at all I'd get the sway bar mounts from FFR. It's an absolute PITA to retrofit the rear one after the fact. You literally cannot get to the bolt after the rear cockpit wall goes on.

Consider which side pipes you're going with. I went with bare carbon steel and I'm gonna have to just throw them out now because after a year of sitting in the shed they've already rusted and blown out. If I could redo it I'd either get stainless or just remove it from the order for some credit back.

Have you read much into fuel line routing? FFR sends a package for coyote EFI with soft hoses for fuel that goes through the trans tunnel, which, almost everyone agrees is a bad idea. I'd ask to see if they can just skip the coyote EFI components and get your own from breeze.

Ask if you can have a blank trans tunnel top cover. The pre-cut hole rarely aligns with anything and needs to be covered up later anyway. You might as well get a blank one and cut it yourself.

TBH, idk how much FFR is willing to price down if you remove those items from your order. In the spirit of "building it yourself" though, a dollar saved is a dollar spent on better components down the line.

Welcome to the club and hope you have a blast! Can't wait to see your build thread.

Thanks for the tips. I don’t plan to track/race at all so I didn’t think the sway bars were necessary/needed. I’ll consider adding those to my order. Likewise. Already plan to step up to solid fuel lines, following the routes many on this forum have used/recommended.

I doubt FFR will allow me to piece apart their already organized kits (ie. The Coyote EFI kit) but it won’t hurt to ask!
Thanks!

[Junbug]

The Wilwood pedal box quadrant setup with the kit supplied cable is miserable HOWEVER if you replace that cable with an OEM Ford one it’s like butter…smooth and cuts down the effort by an order of magnitude. Forte has Ford cables.

Jeff
Thanks Jeff. I’ll add the Ford OEM cable to my order with Forte!
Thanks!

[Junbug]

Call Stewart ASAP! Don't wait until the order is ready to pick up as it will take Stewart a couple of weeks to coordinate a truck to put your kit on.

Thanks Papa! I’ll follow up with Stewart immediately after the holidays!

[edwardb]

Regarding power steering with the Coyote, the Factory Five setup is from KRC. The Forte setup is likely his design bracket with an OE mod motor pump. Discussed in some detail in this post and several after: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44732-Coyote-PWR-steering&p=510981&viewfull=1#post510981. X3 or whatever on ordering the rear sway bar brackets if you have any thoughts of adding a sway bar in the future. They go in painlessly when installing the IRS components. Not so easy afterwards. The front has frame mounts as standard. So with the added brackets, your options are open for adding front or rear sway bars easily in the future. I've had both vinyl and leather Roadster seats. Both are decent quality and frankly I'm not as positive toward the leather as some have posted. Don't know that I could tell the difference either in appearance or comfort. A toss-up for me, and if budget is a factor, I'd spend the money elsewhere. I'm a fan of a hydraulic clutch setup. I've had both cable and hydraulic. I quite strongly prefer hydraulic. I would say especially with a Coyote because the engine compartment is tight and getting a good routing on the cable (e.g. smooth curves and well away from heat sources) is more challenging. But I won't die on that hill if you choose to go aftermarket cable. Finally, other than a few small parts (like the clutch switch mounting brackets) I don't find the Coyote installation package a particularly good value. The pump hangar and pump itself especially. Multiple commercial options that are easily obtainable and IMO are better.

[Tbev]

Any recommendations of the FFR power steering pump vs Forte’s setup?

There are pro's and cons to both. The FFR pump comes with the reservoir attached to the pump and the Forte pump requires you to buy a remote reservoir. The remote reservoir needs to be mounted somewhere (usually on the passenger side F panel). So in that regard, the FFR pump is easier and cleaner install. The FFR pump you will have to install, where as the Forte pump will come pre-installed on the engine. This is not a big deal as installing the pump is easy, but if you don't want to have to deal with it then you would want the Forte pump. It's my understanding that FFR provides a decent pump.....Anything from Mike Forte is going to be good quality, so no real difference there. If I were to do it again I would go with the FFR pump to avoid having to run a remote reservoir, but honestly it wasn't a big deal.

[JohnK]

X2 on considering deleting the FFR side pipes from your order and using the credit toward better aftermarket side pipes. The standard Gas-N pipes aren't quieter (though their touring pipes are) but they're less raspy and pitchy, and are much better build quality.