MK4 Procharger fitment

[GFX2043mtu]

Any one out there fit a Procharger on a 351W based motor in a MK4? From my initial measurements I know that I can fit a standard carb hat on my Ultra XP carb under the hood no problem while using my Victor Jr. intake. Where I run into an issue is with the supercharger fitment. I have talked with Procharger and Brute Speed about packaging size and while Brute Speed wanted to help they seemed to be held back by Prochargers willingness to help. A that point I called Procharger to inquire about the bracket set up from a 64.5-67 mustang (more compact due to narrower strut towers) and they could only give me very rough dimensions while saying that they have sold kits for the FFR cobras before. How ever he stated that he believed they had to be modified to work. I Asked if he know if they where on 302 or 351 based engines. I suspect that most where probably on 302 engines. Unfortunatly he couldn't answer me. My concern is that the taller 351W deck height might cause issues. The last thing I want to do is get a kit that won't fit and then being stuck with it.

[Railroad]

Find a MkIV with that engine and start measuring,,,, or you can build it with the desired engine and see what kind of room you have.
If it will not fit, go to plan B for power adder.
Good luck,

[GFX2043mtu]

I have a finished MK4, the issue is space under the hood for us in the up, down and side to side areas. The advantage to Procharger is that these early mustang kit brackets move the Procharger in towards the motor about 1" which is the most favorable of the kits. Procharger told me the issue is that they don't consider these "swap kits", which means they don't have mounted kit dimensions from known surfaces as they intended these for only one vehicle. I have been working with them and Brute Speed to see if I can get this to fit, but knowing it has been done with some pictures would sure feel good before moving forward with might be a costly shelf display piece that doesn't fit. But in true fashion it seems like I'm always the odd duck in uncharted territory. I was just hoping there was some one that may have done this before.
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[Papa]

Here is one setup I found: https://www.ffcars.com/threads/anyone-supercharged-carbed-351-w.165514/

[Papa]

One more, probably more along the lines of what you are considering even though it isn't a MK4: https://www.thefuelhouse.com/autos/1965-factory-five-cobra-1000-hp-procharged-for-sale

[TBull]

I used this hat for a better low profile on my cobra. I have a about 1.5 - 2" of clearance up under my hood scoop. I can get an actual measurement if you want by putting a piece of putty on the hat and pressing the hood down on it.
https://torqstorm.com/product/torqstorm-carb-hat/

176736

I have a Vortech SC V3 on a 347 Big Bore. Granted it is on the passenger side, but I made it fit pretty easily and even cut around it for my fabricated engine compartment wall.

176737

Granted the SC's that I've see for ProChargers are typically on the DS but where there is a will there is a way. Typically you can loosen the screws around snail shell portion and clock the outlet around so that it is out of the way for more room. Also remember that you should also map the route for the intercooler. I made custom brackets and welded them to the rails running down to the nose. It was a tight fit for everything, but I'm real happy with the result. A friend in the club had a Procharger on his, but again, an 8.2 block. It was fun to keep doing upgrades and posting the HP between us. I really miss Gary from the club. He off building other cars now.

176738

[GFX2043mtu]

TBull, When doing your install it looks like you where coming close to the 3/4" tube that rides under the hood opening just under the body. With all of my measurements I'm noticing the same thing on the drivers side. Did you go with solid motor mounts? I know in my current configuration I already see about 1" if not slightly more of motor rocking. My worry is that I already make right about 500 RWHP on a mustang dyno with how the motor N/A so when I add boost it would only make things worse.

[TBull]

You are correct. but I could have rotated the scroll more counter-clockwise as seen from the front to create more room. The space I have hasn't been a problem yet. I using the energy suspension mounts. Under load which way does the engine torque? Up on the DS or Up on the PS? Unless the motor mount breaks, i wouldn't think you should get more engine movement. I'm running currently at the 576, but come the spring it will be over 600 and then I'll stop. :cool:

Oh and I added my BOV prior to the intercooler on the PS tubing so that I wouldn't add more air through the intercooler just to dump it. This does as much as possible to prevent it getting heat soaked. Just a thought. Please post pics as you get it mapped out. I'm always curious.

[phils88gt]

I made my own brackets.

MK4
351
SN95 mustang pulley depth
D1SC

What did you want to know?

Phil

[GFX2043mtu]

I pulled the trigger on a D1-X unit. I got prints of the Procharger mounts for a early mustang 64.5’ - 67’ with the narrow engine bay. I machined aluminum duplicates of it (1” narrower then the normal one) and made a foam and cardboard model of the head unit and I’m confident I can make it fit as long as I trim the f panel and wing panel for the head unit. It will look like your install Phil. I was told I should have it in 2 weeks. In the meantime I’m switching to solid mounts I got from Mike forte as the motor will move to much with out them. I also have move my oil thermostat forward a couple inches before I can install it. With a base hp in the 600’s and a head unit good for about 1,100 hp, it should a good time with 8 lbs of boost.

[phils88gt]

I can tell your right now procharger has drawings with dimensions that are comically crap. I've been in product manufacturing for over 20 years and own my own small machine shop. I can read a drawing. They refuse to make a good one just like they refuse to release a compressor map. That said I'm sure what they gave you is close enough. I would be careful of the power steering pump if you have it and the clearance to the steering shaft. The pulley will hit the f panel and wheel liner. Even a 3" pulley hits. The d1x is a serious piece but with a 4.1:1 step up are you going 8 rib?

[GFX2043mtu]

I agree ATI’s prints leave a lot out. I had to take a couple “educated guesses” to some of the dimensions. My car is not running a power steering pump so I’m only worried about an alternator. My plan is to adjust the March alternator brackets to align the alternator with the new water pump and crank pulley. If needed I’ll mill the Procharger bracket a bit but I’m thinking with the solid motor mounts I can snake in between the steering shaft and 3/4 tube. From my measurements I should have 1/2”-5/8” clearance all around which should be plenty with solid mounts. I did end up with the 8 rib set up. I tried to do the 12 rib but was told they don’t do that as a kit upgrade. I’m sure I can do a upgrade if needed, but the shop I got the parts from and Procharger told me they run 8 rib belts on the non F series blowers with no issue including d1-x corvettes making 900+hp. Not sure I believe it but I’ll give it a try.

[GFX2043mtu]

Got the kit I needed (1964.5-1967) with a race gave and d1-x head unit. I replaced the motor mounts with sold ones from Mike forte. I found out his mounts are ~.5 lower than the FFR energy mounts so I machined custom billet shims to get everything back in the right place. Once in I removed the fender wing panel. Did some measuring then trimmed the “F” panel and the blower went right in like a glove. No mods to the spacer or mount to get it fitting perfectly. I will add an extra idler used in the LS kit to get the belt away from the steering shaft and to gain some belt wrap. But figment at this point I’d dang good. The boost tube easily clears the hood and fits nicely in the hood scoop. Now the water pump pulley is not correct but a quick summit order should have that in order. Can’t wait till it’s ready for some spring dyno pulls ;) 179200179201179198179199

[GFX2043mtu]

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[TBull]

Looking good! Yeah that should be one he'll of a ride. Just an FYI, if their compressor wheel is cast, 928 Motorsports has an excellent billet wheel cut on a 5 axis mill with about 20% more flow. I've had them rebuild my other SC units as well. Good people.

[GFX2043mtu]

It’s a billet 70’s series compressor that is CNC cut. The unit is a 1,100 hp capable head unit and is the best unit you can get before going to an F series (same hp rating as the F-1). I figured I don’t need over 1,100 whp so I decided on this unit as its one of the big boy units for street use.

[GFX2043mtu]

Got some more work done. Mounted the coil to the bracket spacer as it was a good flat spot and is in a similar location to where I had it so that I didn’t have to move the wiring. Also added an idler (same as the LS belt wrap upgrade). This did three things, first it got the belt far away from the steering shaft and any thing else. Second it shortened up the side of the belt opposite of the tensioner so the belt won’t wobble as much under power. And third it increased belt wrap by a noticeable amount. I found out a k080600 belt is what I need as it fits if I put the new idler on last and has the perfect amount of slack before tensioning the new belt. I also got the water pump pulley figured out. I used one found on summits web sight and with one 1/16” shim it was ready to go. I still need to shim the alternator out and figure that belt out but it should be easy enough. In the next few weeks my goal is to get the air filter set up, wing panel trimmed and back in and one step colder plugs put in. Then I need to wait for CSU to get me my carb back and warmer weather to put it on the dyno and make some power.179914179915179916

[GFX2043mtu]

Fit the air filter assembly, I got the biggest filter that would fit as I’m going for big power numbers and need a filter that won’t cause a restriction. The pictures don’t do its size justice. Figment is very nice and will hide under the fender. I need to move one brake feed line so I can move the filter about 1/4” more toward the motor and raise the filter up a bit so that it doest hit the 3/4 tube. After that was tackled any any modifications noted I started the intake fitment. What I found was that the tall carb hat fits with an inch or more clearance above the carb. How ever toward the front of the motor where the inlet to the carb hat is I only have 3/16” clearance with out the silicone coupler and less then 1/16” with it. So I cut about 1” off the hat (fun stuff with a $340 now non returnable part) to pull the inlet back. Due to the hoods slope this gains a noticeable amount of room. My plan is I’m going to weld a messaged (Procharger carb hat inlet is oval) 3.5” round tube with a mandrel bend to it to give it a little downward angle. That will enable the silicone coupler to be shortened and to be attached lower in the car increasing clearance. My estimate is this should give me another 1/4”-3/8” clearance which is plenty as the motor won’t rock and can’t go up obviously. So as things vibrate around it will not rub. The boost tube fits very well and clears the hood and scoop opening with 1/2-1” clearance depending on how I move it around. Due to the large bypass valve size to support the air flow, I will need to put an npt bung in the drivers side valve cover and install a 90 degree fitting to clear the bypass valve. This is because any push in breather will be too large and I have a catch can anyways. I trimmed the wing panel and put POR on the exposed cut edge and will put black edge trimmin on it after the final install. Over all I think it’s coming together nicely.


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[Railroad]

Lotsa nice parts and put together well. Congrats.
Will swapping valve cover sides provide you with options on clearing the waste gate?
Your brake reservoirs look like they are forward more than mine. Will your hood struts clear them?
I guess you are just adding the Procharger to a finished ride, so I can answer that one myself.
If your are really seeking optimum hp, would a heat shield between the headers and air filter, keep the intake air a little cooler?
Keep posting, really enjoy seeing your work and progress.

[GFX2043mtu]

I plan on taking heat measurements after it’s done. I have determined if a shield is needed I would make an aluminum panel with heat shield material that would go horizontally between the fender wing panel and foot box to isolate the header heat below it. When moving, these cars have a lot of under hood pressure and air movement so it may not be bad at all. Currently the motor has enough torque to over power the first few gears so boost won’t be needed till at least 70+ mph. So I’m in a holding pattern on that one. Swapping valve coves doest get me any where as they are symmetrical so the breather will always be in that place. I’m not worried about TIG welding a bung in the cover as I can make it look like art when done and I like the look of skilled craftsmanship. As far as the hood goes everything fits including the gas struts. I have taken care to ensure everything packages well. I still have list of stuff to do before spring but it is coming together nicely.

[GFX2043mtu]

Got the alternator shimmed out. I hade to make some custom spacers to get it right. My march alternator bracket required the spacers length between the water pump and bracket to be as follows. 1@ 5/16 x 1.06” long, 1 @ 5/16 x .760” long backed with the stock March shim against the the heim joint and 1@ 7/16 x 2.407” long spacer between the head and alternator while reusing the tapered washer between the bracket and alternator. All of the bolts needed to be changed out with ones .76” (3/4”) longer. I got the bolts from the bolt depot and the shims from McMaster and Exstw. I machined them down on a mill as they don’t have the exact size spacers I need. Now I need to get a new belt as the one used with the March pulley kit is to small. I expected that as the crank and water pump pulleys are standard ratio and the March ones for a 351w are all high flow ratios. So in english this means the water pump pulley is smaller. The belt needed for the March kit is a 6PK1045 (41.14” long). Now after trying to fit it I believe I need a 6PK1055 (41.54”) or 6PK1060 (41.75). When done I’ll post the size and pics of it installed incase some one else try’s to Procharge a 351w.

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[GFX2043mtu]

Got some more work done. Alternator is in and after a couple trips to the parts store I can say a 6PK1055 belt is just right with the Procharger crank pulley, March alternator bracket and auto specialties 820021 pulley from Summit. The carb hat took some work but it’s done. I to correct my issue I used a 3.5” 45 degree mandrel bend. I took the tubing and cut it so it so the angle was 22.5 degrees then i trimmed it so that when attached It on the top side I would stick out 3” from carb hat. Then I had to form it to an oval to match the carb hat. With that done I ran it it through the bead machine. With the tubing formed and fitted I TIG welded it to the carb hat. To smooth the transition out I TIG welded the inside and ported it so that it has a seamless transition. With the fab work done I spent an hour on a polisher and fitter it to the car. I’m waiting on the weld in valve cover fittings from Moroso then I can wrap up the catch can set up. In the interim I will install the vacuum manifold to get the MAP sensor bypass valve and boost gauge in.18106318106418106518106618106718106318106418106 5181066181067181068181069

[GFX2043mtu]

Here is some more pics. I tapped the manifold for a vacuum port as my carburetor and manifold do not have any provisions for this. I also installed the vacuum manifold and lines. Now I need my weld in valve cover bungs, boost gauge from Speed Hut and my carb back from CSU and then I will be ready to rock. I hope those that have look at this are enjoying the process. If any one wants to add boost to their 351w in a MK4 I think I have the formula down at this point.

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[GFX2043mtu]

Finished the valve cover breather set up. I had to TIG in a 3/8 npt boss and a chrome 90 degree fitting for clearance. I also got the boost gauge from speed that I had had made to match my current gauges. I also tracked down a small oil leak that forced me to wipe up every couple drives. Found that it was coming from the valve covers. Looks like the silicone Felpro gaskets sealing profile don’t match the sealing surface profile of the AFR 220 Renegade heads at the front and back correctly. I put a set of Moroso silicone ones on as they have a much larger sealing surface and are flat. Cross your fingers it doesn’t seep like the Felpro ones. Everything is now done besides getting the carb back from CSU. 182186182187182188

[TBull]

Just an FYI without an intercooler of some type, Methanol or Air to Air, you're incoming air temp is going to rise dramatically which will hurt performance and increased chances of detonation. I guess based on your CID you're not looking for a ton of boost. Just something to think about. My previous build I used a Snow Performance water Methanol spraying directly into the back side of the hat. The Methanol cooled the charge and also raised my Premium Pump gas octane significantly. Just a thought. I like the large BOV as will. Nice job cutting in the SC head into the panel as well.

[GFX2043mtu]

T bull, thanks for the compliments and you’re correct Im not going to run a lot of boost as I’m traction limited till about 60-70 mph already with the torque I have n/a. I’m looking to run ~7 psi of boost and with a blow through carb the IAT’s will be better then most think as the carb acts as an intercooler. If you were to run port fuel injection yes IAT’s do go up as the fuel is introduced to late to do much cooling. Plus it’s a centrifugal supercharger which has the lowest air temp increases of any blower / turbo type option. One thing I wish was that Procharger would publish efficiency maps as I could run some simulations to see what the actual IAT’s would be. I do this stuff for a living for a well know company called Mahle (I’m the head thermodynamics engineer) so this is kinda my wheelhouse, I’m positive it will not be but a few degrees C over the blower inlet temp after the carb with this boost level. Also I’m only after 200-300 more whp as at that point it won’t hook up at 80-90 mph and there is just no point after that. I’m curious to see what I get and unfortunately I’ll have to wait till May according to CSU to find out.

[TBull]

Sounds awesome. I didn't know that about the blow through carbs. I've only ever dealt with the efi. It's great that you have that background. Well thought out. Now I'm curious what hp numbers you'll get as well. Keep us posted.

[GFX2043mtu]

Carb is finally on its way back. Should have it running this weekend the. Off to the dyno with it. The weather has been great here in Michigan recently with minimal rain and decent temps. Getting the car out and calibrated is now up the priority list.

[Jim1855]

This car NEEDS to be at LCS!

Or put another way - it's about time.

Jim

[GFX2043mtu]

Well the carb is back and it’s alive. I’ll be changing the oil on it and taking it for a maiden voyage tomorrow. I need to put a hundred miles on it to break in the blower belt then it’s off to the dyno for some tuning work. Got a few gallons of VP 113 to mix 50/50 with some pump gas and it should make some good power. On the mustang dyno I’m using I made around 480-500 whp (645 crank at craft racing) before any boost so I’m expecting to see low 700 numbers on 7psi but you never know till it’s done. I just want it to pull like my S1000rr race bike with a bit more noise.184702184703184701

[TBull]

Good luck. She'll be a handful, but what a ride. Take some time to get used to her.

[GFX2043mtu]

First driving impressions, carb is running to rich will need to do some drivability low throttle work for sure. The blower is quiet till ~2k rpm then it gets noisy as the air is bypassing out the bypass valve and there is allot of it. By 3k rpm the bypass sound is louder than the exhaust so at that point everyone will know it’s got a blower on it. I honestly couldn’t ask for more. At idle and cruse it’s like any other cobra then at mid rpm it screams I’m not a 302 then when the bypass closes when you want power it’s back to a normal cobra song under full load. I only pulled a whopping 1 psi to make sure everything is working as intended and it does. Now I need another 80 miles and off I go to the dyno to do some tuning. My goal is to see if it can be ready to go by next weekend. I would love to do some launch control programming at our local track as long as they don’t boot me. Probably going to have to work on launching then peddle it down till I get it dialed in. Then I’ll get one good run for a slip and that’s it. Fingers crossed.

[GFX2043mtu]

Changed the primary jetting to a 76 and it was magic. Car drove around town very well. With the annular boosters it has no dead spots and pulls from idle on up. Tip in is great so the accelerator pump size and squirted appear to be correct. It is now at the dyno and will start tuning tomorrow. I’m curious to see how well the CSU carb works, and what timing the car likes.

[Railroad]

Just me, but I would roll into the throttle, WOT, rather than trying launching, at this early stage.
You may be a lot more capable and comfortable than me.

[Its Bruce]

This is brilliant, and I'm here for results. Will you be logging IAT's during the dyno session?

[TBull]

Looking forward to seeing the results of this.

[GFX2043mtu]

Started working it on the dyno. As usual it needs some issues worked out. Going slow to not hurt it. Started off with 50-70 mph pulls pulls which ended up about 2 psi of boost and goes lean 14.0:1. Lowered the power valve opening from 4 psi to 2 psi to ensue its opening. Did a 50-80 mph pull boost went up to just over 4 psi at 3,600 rpm. AFR didn’t do much and was 14.0 -14.5. Now 2 things could be happening. 1) I’m pulling 8 degrees of timing causing the mixture to not fully burn and giving false lean reading. 2) it’s actually lean and needs more fuel. So to be safe I’ll be increasing the jets 5 sizes and run it again tomorrow. If it richenes up and makes more power then I’ll keep adjusting the jets to get a 11.5-12.0 afr. Then I can add timing to make the biggest gains. I’m right about 500 ft-lbs at 4 psi and 3,600 rpm while pulling 8 degrees of timing which should be about 4 degrees to much. So at this point it’s showing a lot of promise. The math tells me it will be 7 psi at the 6,200 rpm red line. And the mustang numbers I’m getting put it at ~560 ft lbs on a Dynojet at this point. Knowing there is a lot more in it with more fuel and timing.

[GFX2043mtu]

Well a little update. I’ve tried everything with the carb to get fuel to the car up to and including removing the main jets and running full fuel flow out back with 90 plus jets up front, just trying to flood the thing. The fuel system is doing great but even with the carb set this way I can’t go over 5,100 rpm as it goes 13:0 at that point. Now the good part with 2 degrees per lb of boost retard and the lean fuel mix the car pulled 580 ft/lbs (560+ hp) at that number. Boost was 8.1 psi so the D1-X is way more efficient than I thought. I car originally did 530 ft lbs and I added one degree total timing and it went up 50 ft/lbs. If all goes as planned I expect to be able to put another 5-7 degrees of timing back in as long as the car likes it. Plus once I get the fueling figured out I think I should be able to hit my goal of 700+ rwhp. Now at this point I’m hoping the issue lies in the Procharger hat design as any design will probably flow better. I have an Extreme velocity carb hat in hand and will shortly find out if this will give me a good booster signal and pressurize the bowls correctly. I’m hoping the first time it’s run it floods it out as I want it to go rich. I’m crossing my fingers. If this works I’ll have to change out manifolds which if necessary I will do over the weekend and be back at it tuning it next week. 700+ hp and 600+ ft/lb mustang dyno hp here I come. This will equate to ~785+ hp and ~672 ft/lbs on most Dynojet dynos (12% higher).

[GFX2043mtu]

Did a lot more dyno work. The basic finding is that no matter what the carb simply won’t flow enough fuel. Tried 2 carb hats, pulled the jets out of the back of the carb (yes full flow no jets), went up 10 sizes in the front, closed down the high speed air bleeds. No matter what it simply can’t feed it enough fuel. So the carb is going back to CSU and Kevin is going to do some changes. Now on a positive note we made over 600 ft-lb of torque at the rear wheels at 5,100 rpm and it’s still climbing at 12.5:1 afr and 8psi. So I know if I can get the fueling to 11.6:1 or so it will do better. I just can’t go any further till I get the carb to move more fuel. I told CSU “the directive is make the thing fire hose the fuel. I can close down a fire hose to flow like a garden hose; but I can’t make a garden hose flow like a fire hose, and it seems I need a fire hose.” So my fingers are crossed they make it work and didn’t mess up a $1k Holley ultra XP carb. FYI the dark blue line is the torque, red line is hp.

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[GFX2043mtu]

Carb is on its way back, hoping it can provide fuel correctly.
186640

[GFX2043mtu]

Well the car is now tuned and final numbers are in. It made 705 rwhp on my friends mustang dyno which is around 810 rwhp on a Dynojet. Pulls like my race bike on the highway and is a complete blast to drive. Took way to long to tune due to some issues that I may or may not talk about later until after I talk to a vendor to see if they do the right thing. The issue cost be lots (pretty much all summer) of time and $. Sad thing is I fixed it with a replacement part from some one else and had it making 680+rwhp in 2 pulls and was done in 6-7 pulls. If you’re in the West Michigan area Ram Racing rocks if you want a well tuned car. But in the end it defiantly feels like a king cobra. And yes it’s drivable you just have to know it has 850+ hp at the motor, and a freight train loads of torque.

[GFX2043mtu]

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[Jim1855]

I watched it run. A very smooth pull, it just turned on and kept pulling but I left before the 705 pull. Did see 685 knowing there was more.

I'm looking forward to my ride. I did drive it pre-supercharger, pulled really well then and was very easy to drive.

Jim

[GFX2043mtu]

Kinda cool to know that if some one wants you can use Mike fortes solid mounts with a early year renegade bracket and what ever size Procharger you want on a 351w motor and it will fit and make as much power as you want if you get the urge. The centrifugal superchargers are a great way to go. They build boost in relation to engine speed, which helps with traction and you get the coolest charge air temps of any forced air application. Now I need to hit the track and see what 1/4 mile run I can make before I get kicked. I can see 9 second trap speeds just by how hard the car pulls. Maybe not a 9 second ET until I can figure how to get the car to hook. It’s defiantly a serious car that demands respect.

[Blitzboy54]

This is so cool, congratulations!! I'm late to this party. I plan to install this Torque Storm setup for generic small block Ford this winter. I made a template and it clears the hood, however like TBull and the OP I will have to go into the wheel well.

https://torqstorm.com/product/kits_single_small-block-ford/


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188868&d=1692113480

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188867&d=1692113480

They have a fox body setup that will clear the wheel well but it sits too high. For fitment purposes I will have to relocate my radiator overflow tank and put a smaller battery in the tray. My existing type 51 only clears by a CM. I found some race battery's that are quite a bit smaller that will work fine and give the relief I need. The alternator may end up a little too close to the headers, so if I need to I found a mini 1 wire 100a race alternator that's nearly 50% of the size. I am not looking to maximize the power output potential. It will be a mild setup.

[GFX2043mtu]

If you plan on doing a 302 motor I would suggest to also call Brute Speed about there 1964.5 kits that Procharger offers. His quotes are a lot lower than the advertised prices and that may give you another option to think about as they are arguably one of the biggest players in the centrifugal supercharger game. In addition, their mounts allow you to upgrade later if you want more power and parts are available from most race shops. I gave the formula on how to make it fit out of the box and what parts to get to make it a 100% bolt up thing for a 351W so keep in mid the hidden costs going a path not traveled. I think most others who are utilizing he 302 platform are using a Paxton set up and they will probably give you some support where I can't offer as much. This is because the deck height of a 302 is significantly less then a 351W. On the plus side you can use a good carb hat like an extreme velocity.

[Blitzboy54]

I will give them a call. Thanks for the tip!

[nucjd19]

This is so cool, congratulations!! I'm late to this party. I plan to install this Torque Storm setup for generic small block Ford this winter. I made a template and it clears the hood, however like TBull and the OP I will have to go into the wheel well.

https://torqstorm.com/product/kits_single_small-block-ford/


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188868&d=1692113480

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188867&d=1692113480

They have a fox body setup that will clear the wheel well but it sits too high. For fitment purposes I will have to relocate my radiator overflow tank and put a smaller battery in the tray. My existing type 51 only clears by a CM. I found some race battery's that are quite a bit smaller that will work fine and give the relief I need. The alternator may end up a little too close to the headers, so if I need to I found a mini 1 wire 100a race alternator that's nearly 50% of the size. I am not looking to maximize the power output potential. It will be a mild setup.

Super interested in this Blitz. Please post up an install thread if you decide to do it.

[Blitzboy54]

I called Bob, he’s putting a quote together. Thanks again for the tip.

Nuc, I definitely will. I’m pretty committed to doing it. I had saved up to do it then I had a few unexpected expenses and my daughter starts college next week (I can’t believe my little girl is in college already). So I’m looking at late winter early spring. It’s def happening. I will add it to my build thread.

[nucjd19]

I called Bob, he’s putting a quote together. Thanks again for the tip.

Nuc, I definitely will. I’m pretty committed to doing it. I had saved up to do it then I had a few unexpected expenses and my daughter starts college next week (I can’t believe my little girl is in college already). So I’m looking at late winter early spring. It’s def happening. I will add it to my build thread.

I will be Pm'ing you when you start. I have been thinking about doing this too but have concerns with blowing a 347 stroker since it is already stressed.

[GFX2043mtu]

On word of wisdom now that I have been around and about with CSU. They can’t seem to admit they took my tuned perfectly, 100% functioning $1k Holley Ultra XP and about $900 and tuned it into a pile of garbage. I went round and about with them. 2 months of dyno time thousands of dollars and they won’t admit it’s wrong (car runs like poo with it). Carb would go 13.3:1 afr ratio and climbing fast at 4K rpm and CSU would say it’s ok. I prefer not to put holes in my very expensive Diamond pistons so I tore it off after nothing fixed it including a return trip to CSU for another $100. Now I got another blow through carb from pro systems and out of the box it made 15 more rwhp then the CSU unit could on its best run (which it could not replicate with no changes). Plus it didn’t cause the motor break up during a pull like the CSU carb did every run, and it would run 11.8:1 AFR ratio consistently under boost. Do your self a favor if you go blow-through call ProSystem. Even Steve Morris recommends him for 1k hp and under applications.

[TBull]

Excellent numbers! Very happy you got it all worked out. Yes that much horsepower is addictive. Have fun and be safe

[Jim1855]

Just in case anyone is interested in great carbs. Cheap plug for a great shop.

I run the Circle Track/Road Race Series 4150, 780cfm, mechanical secondaries and no choke on my 427w.
https://www.prosystemsracing.com/blaster1/

Jim

[Jim1855]

I had a ride in GFX3043mtu's ProCharged 461w Mk4 yesterday. Sunny and 70's here in West Michigan.

No serious passes as a new clutch is still in a break-in period but the car runs well. 1,400 rpm 5th gear is drivable and it was smooth in all gears. In the lower RPM range the ProCharger is relatively quiet, as the RPMs move up the wastegate can be heard releasing unused boost. It really drove like a NA car but with a bit of boost, it pulled smoothly and easily.

The 850cfm ProSystems carb really works well as evident from the drivability. My 427w with a 780cfm PS carb doesn't run as smoothly until about 2,100 RPM.

I'm looking forward to a ride with a bit more, OK maybe full, power pass.

Jim

[Jim1855]

A few more comments on an amazing build. WOW!!!

Had a ride a few weeks ago, starts, idles, drivable. Warms up in a block or two w/o effort. Pulls incredibly well in any gear but 3rd just rocks and sets you in the seat. Oh yeah it's fast.

Today I had a chance to drive it. Got in after it had been idling for a minute or two and just drove it away. Well, actually it was a bit more than that as I had to learn the mechanical carb linkage, it is linear and smooth but fairly fast acting, I might like a bit more travel for easier modulation, this can be dialed in on the mechanical system.

I never ran it flat out and probably only ran to half or maybe a bit more throttle, hoo chee mama does it pull. Makes glorious noises too. Runs in a very civilized manner as long as you seriously mind your Ps & Qs. This is not the car to get excited in and jab the fun pedal.

Congrats Lynn!

Jim