# 1115 resurrection

[Just 1 More]

A few weeks ago I put the word out that I was looking for an unfinished Factory Five Racing 33 Hot Rod kit. I got 3 responses, a Gen 2 Stage 1 kit in Missouri, A Gen 1 Stage 1 kit in the Carolinas and a Gen 2 Stage 2 kit in New Hampshire. The guy in Missouri turned out to be a complete flake, the one in the Carolinas was nice but a Gen 1, I really wanted a Gen 2. After a few e-mails and phone calls I made an offer on the one in New Hampshire and we made a deal. I offered to send a deposit and was told that wasn't necessary. He agreed to hold the car until Thanksgiving weekend and if I didn't show up he would move on to the next guy. Made me a little nervous only having a verbal agreement but he was a man of his word. Since I was driving to New Jersey to spend Thanksgiving with my daughter, a quick trip to New Hampshire would work out perfectly. I made the 14 hour round trip yesterday and picked it up.
Basic info, Build #1115
383 SBC Stroker rated at 425hp, 700r4, 8.8 rear w/3:73 gears. The engine is a new build off of E-bay and has never been run, never fired. The Trans is new from Patriot trans. As you can see, there has been a bunch of assembly but, I'm going to blow it all apart and do it my way .. lol
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[GoDadGo]

Good Luck, Happy Wrenching & Watch Your Pinkies!

[Jeff33Ford]

great find. Let the fun and sometimes frustration begin. But we all get through it will a little patience.

[JimLev]

Good find, nice to see he had the doors and trunk already trimmed to fit.
I think I had the doors on/off about 10 times before I was happy with the fit.

[Just 1 More]

Good find, nice to see he had the doors and trunk already trimmed to fit.
I think I had the doors on/off about 10 times before I was happy with the fit.

Unfortunately, they're on the there but not adjusted or aligned and not so sure about the gaps.. this should be fun.. lol

[Mastertech5]

What a find! Have fun with it.

[Just 1 More]

What a find! Have fun with it.

Thanks, I've enjoyed watching your build tread and learning from it.

[Mastertech5]

I have my fits of rage at times. Like with the ECU power up wire if you read that. I spent half a day looking through the harness for it and it was coiled up with the diag. connector and accel. pedal wiring in the left corner on the floor. The instruction said to locate it in the harness and can be brought into the interior with the other two. Can be, to me, means find it and run it in with those if desired not when you run those in it will hit you in the face that that's where it is. Even though I was a Tech for 40 years the manual writers and engineers think everyone has an engineering degree and they'll understand. NOT����
Now that that's over with I'm glad you can learn from my build. If you have questions feel free to ask me here or on the sub-threads under 33 Hot Rod pertaining to your subject, which I've noticed you have done. Great group of people here willing to help.

[Just 1 More]

First thing was to pull the intake and see if it is a Hyd roller or not, and it's not. Ordering a Howards Roller Cam and Lifters, Advertised Duration 278/284, Lift .500/.510 and all the associated gaskets. So far i've purchased seat adjuster tracts, a Mike Everson fan shroud, a complete A/C kit and a 33 replacement grill. Spoke to Dan Ruth about some other misc goodies. He's winding down and not producing things like he used to so i'll have to source some things elsewhere. Need to get the body off and see what needs to be addressed. It's going to be slow process

[Mastertech5]

I can't tell from your pictures. EFI or carb?

[Just 1 More]

I can't tell from your pictures. EFI or carb?

Right now it's carb. I'm running a Holley Stealth Term-X on my Camaro and leaning towards that or an 8 stack multiport system like the Borla unit.

[Mastertech5]

The eight stack looks so cool! My preference though. Old time Hot Rod look.

[Just 1 More]

Parts are rolling in
Cam & Lifters
timing cover
Fuel Pump
Fan Shroud
seat tracks
Electric steering
A/C kit
176839

[Just 1 More]

Got the new grill from 33pizzaguy and it's nice. mocked it up and laid the hood on there. I love the 33 look so much better than the 32 grill.
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[Just 1 More]

Radiator arrived today, mocked up the shroud and fan. Looks much better with the shroud and i'm sure helps the cooling.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52588712945_de964ee82c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o85Uck)20221226_211801 (https://flic.kr/p/2o85Uck) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

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[Just 1 More]

Pulled the cam & lifters out and prepping for the new Hyd Roller set up

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[Mastertech5]

You know about the bushing or bearing that needs to go on the front of the cam when converting to roller lifters, I hope. Keeps the cam from walking so the cam lobes stay in position on the lifters. I'd hate to see your engine get ruined.

[Just 1 More]

You know about the bushing or bearing that needs to go on the front of the cam when converting to roller lifters, I hope. Keeps the cam from walking so the cam lobes stay in position on the lifters. I'd hate to see your engine get ruined.

Yep, cam button and need to set to around 0.005-0.010 inch end play. Thanks, never hurts to have a reminder

[Just 1 More]

Got the cam and lifters installed last night, measured and ordered new push rods. Set the camshaft end play only to find that the new fancy aluminum timing cover won't clear the short water pump. So now I need to re-do the end play with the stamped steel cover.
I'm worried about this engine, it seems very dirty inside for an engine that has never been run. Not sure if it's from sitting around in a very dusty, dirty area wherever it was sitting the past few years or if it's the typical e-bay engine deal. The entire car is covered in dirt so i'm hoping that's all it is. Going to wash it out with some cheap thin oil and a small brush and drain it... As many times as it takes until I feel better about it.

[33fromSD]

Was it a crate engine that was bought and shelved? By dirty, do you make rust scale, gunky oil build up, debris, what is the definition of dirty?

If it was supposedly a new crate engine, you take an engine builder line BluePrint Engines and they run an orange dye in coolant passages and I think blue dye in the oil to check for leaks while doing their initial start up / dyno test, then drain it and crate it like that, they never flush them. The orange is misleading cause it makes the initial water orange / rusty looking and there would be a bluish haze in the oil passages & valleys.

One way to tell if it was ever ran would be to remove the head and see if you have wear on the cylinder wall or a carbon ring build up at the top of the cylinder.

Ebay buys make me leary, I've gotten lucky and burned on eBay.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Was it a crate engine that was bought and shelved? By dirty, do you make rust scale, gunky oil build up, debris, what is the definition of dirty?

If it was supposedly a new crate engine, you take an engine builder line BluePrint Engines and they run an orange dye in coolant passages and I think blue dye in the oil to check for leaks while doing their initial start up / dyno test, then drain it and crate it like that, they never flush them. The orange is misleading cause it makes the initial water orange / rusty looking and there would be a bluish haze in the oil passages & valleys.

One way to tell if it was ever ran would be to remove the head and see if you have wear on the cylinder wall or a carbon ring build up at the top of the cylinder.

Ebay buys make me leary, I've gotten lucky and burned on eBay.

Jim

This wasn't "my" purchase, it was the original buyer/builder that I bought the kit from and came with the car. I knew it was a risk but I felt for the price of the kit, I could make it right if I need to. As far as dirty, I feel and see grit in the lifter valley. Put a magnet on the grit and it's not metallic, more like actual dirt. I was able to run it between my fingers and it kind of dissolved or broke down in to a mud, if that makes any sense.

[Just 1 More]

Well Jim, In my infinite stupidity, It dawned on me tonight while cleaning the intake gaskets off the heads and thinking, dang, there's a lot of dusty dirty on the edge of these gaskets... I didn't clean around the intake when I removed it and all the dirt that was along the edges fell in to the lifter valley.. :rolleyes:
I gave the lifter valley a good bath and scrubbing with 10w-30 and i'll drain the pan tomorrow.

[33fromSD]

Well Jim, In my infinite stupidity, It dawned on me tonight while cleaning the intake gaskets off the heads and thinking, dang, there's a lot of dusty dirty on the edge of these gaskets... I didn't clean around the intake when I removed it and all the dirt that was along the edges fell in to the lifter valley.. :rolleyes:
I gave the lifter valley a good bath and scrubbing with 10w-30 and i'll drain the pan tomorrow.

Happens to all of us.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Flaming River Elec assist steering installed

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[DanQ]

I placed my order for a 33 hot rod last week. I just got my confirmation letter today. Can you tell me how to post a question to all 33 hot rod members? So far I figured out how to reply to a link, but do not see any tab to post a question. Thanks.

[RoadRacer]

I placed my order for a 33 hot rod last week. I just got my confirmation letter today. Can you tell me how to post a question to all 33 hot rod members? So far I figured out how to reply to a link, but do not see any tab to post a question. Thanks.

You should see a "Post New Thread" blue button at the main 33 forum, but perhaps not yet because you're new. David (the admin) will likely have to push a button - DM him (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?2-David-Hodgkins)

[JimLev]

I placed my order for a 33 hot rod last week. I just got my confirmation letter today. Can you tell me how to post a question to all 33 hot rod members? So far I figured out how to reply to a link, but do not see any tab to post a question. Thanks.

Dan congrats on ordering a hotrod. When you can post you will see this.

177926

[Just 1 More]

Frustration has set in... I knew I was going to have to redo some stuff and now that i'm in to it, I find myself getting very frustrated with the rabbit hole that's opening up in front of me, finding more of what I suspected and kind of expected but, that doesn't make me feel any better. The guy who started this project slapped it together halfazzed and skipped stuff like insulation and sound deadening in the floor aluminum panels.. Oh and the wiring that's just hanging or balled up under the dash. It started with, the cam replacement, which went good, then installing a March Serpentine drive with A/C & Alt so I can fire the engine... crank pulley wouldn't fit. Found out that FFR has a revision on the engine mounts and that moves the engine back a little, but not far enough for me, we're talking 1/8 - 3/16 more needed. I've got the engine back as far as it will go, the trans pan hitting the welded in crossmember that you cant get to because all the aluminium floor panels and trans tunnel have already been riveted in.. so start drilling out rivets,, but wait, there's a series of rivets that are behind the engine along the firewall.. Have to pull the engine to get to them.. grrrrr.. let's go to plan B, leave the engine where it is and break out the mini belt sander and take some off the steering rack mount bushing, That worked, but only gives me 1/8-3/16" clearance and you have to pull the crank pulley to remove or install the belt, I can deal with that. Now to weld up the re-fabd engine mounts. BUT, I really need to get those damn rivets out so I can pull the trans tunnel to get to all the wiring and fuel lines.. rant over for now..... to be continued

[RoadRacer]

Frustration has set in... I knew I was going to have to redo some stuff and now that i'm in to it, I find myself getting very frustrated with the rabbit hole that's opening up in front of me, finding more of what I suspected and kind of expected but, that doesn't make me feel any better. The guy who started this project slapped it together halfazzed and skipped stuff like insulation and sound deadening in the floor aluminum panels.. Oh and the wiring that's just hanging or balled up under the dash. It started with, the cam replacement, which went good, then installing a March Serpentine drive with A/C & Alt so I can fire the engine... crank pulley wouldn't fit. Found out that FFR has a revision on the engine mounts and that moves the engine back a little, but not far enough for me, we're talking 1/8 - 3/16 more needed. I've got the engine back as far as it will go, the trans pan hitting the welded in crossmember that you cant get to because all the aluminium floor panels and trans tunnel have already been riveted in.. so start drilling out rivets,, but wait, there's a series of rivets that are behind the engine along the firewall.. Have to pull the engine to get to them.. grrrrr.. let's go to plan B, leave the engine where it is and break out the mini belt sander and take some off the steering rack mount bushing, That worked, but only gives me 1/8-3/16" clearance and you have to pull the crank pulley to remove or install the belt, I can deal with that. Now to weld up the re-fabd engine mounts. BUT, I really need to get those damn rivets out so I can pull the trans tunnel to get to all the wiring and fuel lines.. rant over for now..... to be continued

I've been there - it can be done! I've used a couple of methods: a flexible drill extension and a right angle air drill - the latter is my favorite for tight spaces and I've ended up using it quite a lot.

177969

[Just 1 More]

Welded up the new engine mounts with the old brackets. Re-clocked the steering motor. This set the engine back as far as it could go. Should be just enough for the front serpentine drive and now room for exhaust also.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52626893697_8707cba242_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2obsA1a)20230114_184656 (https://flic.kr/p/2obsA1a) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

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[Just 1 More]

BLING ALERT !!!! :cool:

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[FF33rod]

Looks great! I have the same pulley system on my SBF :)

Steve

[THUNDERSTRUCK]

Any chance you could post measured distance from front of balancer to back of rack. I'm hoping for 3.75 or more. I'm making plans for a truck with a 350 Chevy and from what I've been told 33 and 35 are the same firewall forward

Thank you

[Just 1 More]

Any chance you could post measured distance from front of balancer to back of rack. I'm hoping for 3.75 or more. I'm making plans for a truck with a 350 Chevy and from what I've been told 33 and 35 are the same firewall forward

Thank you

I'm right at 3.75 to the rack mount on the passenger side, that I sanded down, almost 4 to the actual rack body.

[THUNDERSTRUCK]

I'm right at 3.75 to the rack mount on the passenger side, that I sanded down, almost 4 to the actual rack body.

Thank You
Sounds like it will be close but will work. Have you moved engine back at all

[Just 1 More]

Thank You
Sounds like it will be close but will work. Have you moved engine back at all

As far back as I could move it. Trans pan is now bumping the crossmember

[Just 1 More]

Got the uppers in today, now waiting on the lowers
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[Mastertech5]

Looks like you'll have to remove those from the frame mounts to adjust. The ones I got have a double ended stud sleeve with 2 locknuts, similar to the front lower control arm rear, on each each of the sleeve so removal is not necessary. I also have bushings for the diff housing that look like the front ones on those arms. No binding. Are you getting adjustable lowers too. I was told by Mark Reynolds at Breeze that you shouldn't use those that he sells on a 4 link. You need the stability and give of poly or rubber bushings on a triangulated 4 link. I'm glad I got the uppers though because I adjusted them to the kit arm length before installing them and my pinion angle is too excessive so I need to make them longer to raise the pinion higher.

[Just 1 More]

Looks like you'll have to remove those from the frame mounts to adjust. The ones I got have a double ended stud sleeve with 2 locknuts, similar to the front lower control arm rear, on each each of the sleeve so removal is not necessary. I also have bushings for the diff housing that look like the front ones on those arms. No binding. Are you getting adjustable lowers too. I was told by Mark Reynolds at Breeze that you shouldn't use those that he sells on a 4 link. You need the stability and give of poly or rubber bushings on a triangulated 4 link. I'm glad I got the uppers though because I adjusted them to the kit arm length before installing them and my pinion angle is too excessive so I need to make them longer to raise the pinion higher.

These use the Ridetech "R" joint which have a cushion of sorts so it's not as brutal as a solid spherical heims joint.


BMR makes a replacement bushing for the 8.8 housing that uses a spherical insert. It eliminates the binding of the bushing.

178340

The lowers will also be Ridetech "R" joints on both ends. Not sure why he suggested not using them on a triangulated 4 link. My 68 Camaro has a complete Ridetech triangulated 4 link with "R" joints on every rod end and it's fantastic.

[Mastertech5]

I asked him if I used a panhard bar to keep things straight would be ok and he said no. Only use one on parallel 4 bar links. I can always change them out later.

[Just 1 More]

I asked him if I used a panhard bar to keep things straight would be ok and he said no. Only use one on parallel 4 bar links. I can always change them out later.

I'll let you know how it handles and feels .. Like I said, My Camaro is awesome with the triangulated 4 link and "R" joints at every connection, not sure why the '33 would be any different

[Just 1 More]

Fired the engine last night, which opened up a bunch of cans of worms. When cranking it sounds like the starter and flywheel and torque converter don't like each other. Something isn't fastened correctly or not at all. It's not getting good fuel even though I added one of them expensive Edelbrock Performer RPM Street Fuel Pumps 1721, so I need to dig in to the supply line and probably just redo it all with 3/8" tubing and -6AN fittings. It ran like absolute crap for the few minutes that I let it run. Pretty sure the carb has issues even though I did tear it apart, blow all the passages with carb clean and new gaskets. Set the idle air screws to 1.5 turns out to start with which is where i've always set them and never had an issue. It was late, i was frustrated so I shut it down, closed up the garage and said "F" it. I feel like I need to pull the engine, get it on a run stand or engine dyno and get it all dialed in then put it back in the car, I think that'll be the plan moving forward. I'm just going to chill and watch football today and forget about it for a while.

[RoadRacer]

We've all had those days. It could be something really small!

[33fromSD]

Fired the engine last night, which opened up a bunch of cans of worms. When cranking it sounds like the starter and flywheel and torque converter don't like each other. Something isn't fastened correctly or not at all. It's not getting good fuel even though I added one of them expensive Edelbrock Performer RPM Street Fuel Pumps 1721, so I need to dig in to the supply line and probably just redo it all with 3/8" tubing and -6AN fittings. It ran like absolute crap for the few minutes that I let it run. Pretty sure the carb has issues even though I did tear it apart, blow all the passages with carb clean and new gaskets. Set the idle air screws to 1.5 turns out to start with which is where i've always set them and never had an issue. It was late, i was frustrated so I shut it down, closed up the garage and said "F" it. I feel like I need to pull the engine, get it on a run stand or engine dyno and get it all dialed in then put it back in the car, I think that'll be the plan moving forward. I'm just going to chill and watch football today and forget about it for a while.

Maybe something is hitting the flex plate, I know that makes the most gawd-awful sound.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Maybe something is hitting the flex plate, I know that makes the most gawd-awful sound.

Jim

Definitely sounds like it. I'll get back out there and start looking one evening this week.

[RoadRacer]

Yeah it sure make you pay attention if you forget to align the starter motor.. or worse, like I did once.. connect the battery backwards. That was not fun.

[Just 1 More]

Yeah it sure make you pay attention if you forget to align the starter motor.. or worse, like I did once.. connect the battery backwards. That was not fun.

LOL... This is all the work of the previous owner so i'm learning as I go what is and isn't right. A friend is coming saturday morning to help get the body off and then i'll start re-doing the fuel and electrical. I have to keep reminding myself I bought an unfinished kit someone else started.

[33fromSD]

LOL... This is all the work of the previous owner so i'm learning as I go what is and isn't right. A friend is coming saturday morning to help get the body off and then i'll start re-doing the fuel and electrical. I have to keep reminding myself I bought an unfinished kit someone else started.

My guess is this is one of the reasons the PO gave up on the build and sold it among others. If you look at all the unfinished kit cars people sell, the main reasons for selling them are they ran out of money, ran out of time, life changing event (divorce, illness/death in family), or ran out of skills.

Folks love to buy kit cars thinking its a giant lego set which "just goes together" until they get it and start putting them together and quickly run into issues that are outside their skill or comfort level or they didn't realize modification / some fabrication is required and they get over-whelmed, then the car gets parked for a while collecting dust, then finally they give up after they realize they've lost the passion or faced reality that they will never finish it due to skill level.

A neighbor of mine wanted to buy a kit car a couple years back until he watched my build and learned that it's not just boxes of parts you get & assemble and you have a car, there is a lot more to it. He was overwhelmed the couple times he helped me and it wasn't even his car. :)

You're doing it the right way by going back and checking over everything.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Placed my order for front & rear fenders thru http://www.mpdfiberbodywerx.com/

[Just 1 More]

A friend came by this morning to help get the body off. Now I can tackle all the little stuff like A/C, wiring, fuel lines, etc...

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[Just 1 More]

Swapped out the 670 street avenger carb and put my old Merlin Hardcore Holley 870 on and it ran so much better. But, the 870 has been sitting around a couple years and needs a good gasket kit, leaking from a couple spots and a bad vacuum leak.. But it runs
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[Just 1 More]

And got the Ridetech lower links in
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[33fromSD]

870 cfm, wow, that's a beast!! :cool:

Jim

[Just 1 More]

870 cfm, wow, that's a beast!! :cool:

Jim

Probably a lot more than the little 383 needs but damn if it didn't run much better then that other 670 that was on it. I'm sure I could have the 670 gone through and fixed.. probably should.

[Mastertech5]

Looks like a choke could be added.

[RoadRacer]

Whatever works! I tried rebuilding a true holley but it never did work well.. bought a new Brawler 650 DP and it worked out of the box, and hasn't been touched since.

I suspect the previous owner had done some 'mods' to the holley that the rebuild couldn't fix.. best using it as shelf art ;)

[Mastertech5]

Holleys have many tuneable features that are best dialed in on an engine dynomometer. Jet size, air bleed size, accelerator pump squirter size, power valve opening vacuum rating and others. If it is not tuned close to what the engine needs it will not run properly or poorly at various loads and rpms. Warped metering blocks are common because of overtightening of the float bowl screws.

[33fromSD]

I have rebuilt a lot of carbs overs the years (Eblebrocks, Autolites, carters) both 2bbl & 4bbl without any issues. I "attempted" to rebuild a 650 4bbl a couple years back on my 70 Challenger before going to the Holley Snipper EFI system and I failed miserably.

To me, anyone who can successfully rebuilds & properly tune a Holley 4bbl is a rockstar in my book. Very frustrating carb to work with in my opinion.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Reminds me of the old days rebuilding carbs on my mom's kitchen table, That woman was a saint for putting up with me. Anyway, tore in to the carb again, this time being very thorough and didn't spare the carb cleaner. I did see some "stuff" come out of a couple ports so there was definitely dirt in the carb passages.
179653
I redid all the fuel lines starting at the tank. Used a 3/8 compression to -6an on the pick up tube, 3/8 aluminum tubing out, down and along the frame rail, new -6an fuel filter and the black ptfe lined braid to the fuel pump, Black ptfe braid to the carb and another inline filter at the carb feed.
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[Just 1 More]

My carb rebuild did the trick, fired up and actually ran pretty good. Still need to do some adjusting and tuning but i'm a lot closer, and happier, than I was last week.
See if this works, do I copy the URL? or "imbed" or is this right?

https://youtu.be/2LDFp_39ebE

[33fromSD]

My carb rebuild did the trick, fired up and actually ran pretty good. Still need to do some adjusting and tuning but i'm a lot closer, and happier, than I was last week.
See if this works, do I copy the URL? or "imbed" or is this right?

https://youtu.be/2LDFp_39ebE

Worked fine. Sounds like it has a pretty nice cam in it.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Worked fine. Sounds like it has a pretty nice cam in it.

Jim

Howards HRS-CL110245-10 Advertised duration 278/284, Lift .500/.510 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 225 int./231 exh.

[33fromSD]

Nice. Sounds great

Jim

[Just 1 More]

What are the odds??? I mean seriously???
I want to do duel roll bars instead of the single all the way across that FFR supplies with the kit so, I reached out to a local race chassis shop and he didn't have the correct die to bend what I need so I put a message out to some friends and got a response of "have 2 in the shop leftover from my cage build, come get them" WHAAAAAAAAAAAT??????
I have awesome friends
179728

[Just 1 More]

This cute little thing showed up today
179729

[FF33rod]

What are the odds??? I mean seriously???
I want to do duel roll bars instead of the single all the way across that FFR supplies with the kit so, I reached out to a local race chassis shop and he didn't have the correct die to bend what I need so I put a message out to some friends and got a response of "have 2 in the shop leftover from my cage build, come get them" WHAAAAAAAAAAAT??????
I have awesome friends
179728

Bonus!!! Does he have 2 more? ;) I wanted to do this but couldn't find anyone to do it at a reasonable price so didn't put in anything...

Steve

[progmgr1]

I also prefer the look of dual roll hoops in place of a single roll hoop. I got mine from a Roadster builder. The issue was "how do I mount these to my Hot Rod chassis"? The primary purpose of mine are to act as head rest supports, so they needed to be centered behind the seats. In order to have the hoops removeable (so they can be installed through the waterfall), I built up a structure with steel tube and angle that I had on hand. This design gives pretty good lateral support, but not so great in a fore-aft direction. Hopefully I never have to test their load capability.

Two photos attached. Both taken during fabrication. Sorry, photos of final result missing(?).

Keith HR #894

179812 179813

[Just 1 More]

nothing exciting, just made my fuel vapor system yesterday. The check valve fitting goes to the vapor cannister then to an old fuel filter that has a sintered bronze filter in it.
179897179898

[FF33rod]

Regarding the check valve, how does that work? Maybe I don't understand but doesn't the vent need to let air both in and out? In as the tank drains, out to help with to evacuate air when filling?

Steve

[progmgr1]

If it's like my fuel tank, the check valve is there to stop leaks when the tank is upside down - like after a collision. As long as the valve is upright the ball is away from the seat allowing air to flow in either direction.

Keith HR #894

[Just 1 More]

If it's like my fuel tank, the check valve is there to stop leaks when the tank is upside down - like after a collision. As long as the valve is upright the ball is away from the seat allowing air to flow in either direction.

Keith HR #894

Exactly as Keith says, Thanks Keith, you beat me to it.

[narly1]

If it's like my fuel tank, the check valve is there to stop leaks when the tank is upside down - like after a collision. As long as the valve is upright the ball is away from the seat allowing air to flow in either direction.

Keith HR #894

My understanding is a bit different.

I believe the ball is free to move up and down between 2 seats, not 1. In the normal (rubber on the road) attitude, the mass of the ball has it resting on the lower seat. If there is pressure build-up in the tank it lifts (forces?) the ball away from the seat and allows it to vent. Otherwise the ball keeps the tank closed off to atmosphere and thus minimizes the stink/evaporation of fuel. Note that the valve has to be above the fuel level for it to work in this manner.

In rollover attitude the mass of the liquid fuel presses the ball against the top seat thus preventing any fuel from dribbling out.

The vapour cannister uses activated charcoal to "scrub" any hydrocarbons (and thus stink) out of the pressurized vapour escaping the tank, and also serves the purpose of preventing dirt from getting into the tank.

Earl

[Mastertech5]

I used a Breeze automotive vent because it uses a larger hose that matches my GM canister vent size. I just checked the FFR vent valve I still have and it has a 4 way crimp and does NOT seal when blowing through the nipple. In your scenario any pressure in the tank would lift the ball and unseal it anyway, the ball isn't that heavy. FYI.

[Just 1 More]

Got a few little things done over the weekend. re-engineered the trans mount, got rid of whatever mount was on there, went with a factory style GM mount, flipped and re-drilled the FFR bracket and now have yoke clearance, Clarence.

Got the headers & pipes removed and boxed up, ready to send off to Jet-Hot Coatings to have everything thermal coated to hopefully help reduce heat output. They say it's a 65% reduction so.....

Pulled the valve body out of the 700R4 trans and it's ready to head to TCI to have the constant pressure modification done.

And then did the Second Skin Mega Block thermal insulation in the floor. The stuff isn't cheap so i'm expecting exceptional results. It's only 1/2" thick so I doubled up on it. Waiting on some 3M 5200 to seal and finalize it.
180208

[33fromSD]

Got a few little things done over the weekend. re-engineered the trans mount, got rid of whatever mount was on there, went with a factory style GM mount, flipped the FFR bracket and now have yoke clearance, Clarence.

Got the headers & pipes removed and boxed up, ready to send off to Jet-Hot Coatings to have everything thermal coated to hopefully help reduce heat output. They say it's a 65% reduction so.....

Pulled the valve body out of the 700R4 trans and it's ready to head to TCI to have the constant pressure modification done.

And then did the Second Skin Mega Block thermal insulation in the floor. The stuff isn't cheap so i'm expecting exceptional results. It's only 1/2" thick so I doubled up on it. Waiting on some 3M 5200 to seal and finalize it.
180208

Looks good. Keep in mind you may need to adjust the yoke height (up or down) once you get the drive shaft on car and the car is sitting at ride height.

Jim

[Just 1 More]

Looks good. Keep in mind you may need to adjust the yoke height (up or down) once you get the drive shaft on car and the car is sitting at ride height.

Jim

Thanks Jim, I've got the spacer option kind of built in a little better now. I had a few shims left over from my T56 swap in my Camaro so that's one of the reasons I went with a GM trans mount for the bolt pattern

[Just 1 More]

You wouldn't think something as simple as adjustable seat tracks and seat mounting would kick your *** but, for whatever reason, it sure kicked mine. I had serious brain issues, overthinking it and trying to over engineer it. In the end, I simply mounted the sliders to the seats, which required nutserts in the seat frame then 1/2" spacers for the slide release/locking mechanism to operate. Then marked and drilled through both levels of floor aluminum. Cut and drilled out the 5/16" studs that came swedged in the sliders, replace with grade 8 - 1/4" bolts, grind the side of thick flat washers so they fit in the seat track channel, tack weld the head of the 1/4" bolt to the washer so that it won't spin and you can run a lock nut up on it from underneath without having to hold the head in the seat track yet isn't welded to the seat track incase you need to remove it. I didn't want the aluminum panels to crush down on themselves when I tighten the bolts so I made 1" aluminum spacers, cut the foam/heat barrier to accept the spacers and sealed them with foil tape. Like I said, Simple.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52711295181_dae89ce9ce_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oiVaCa)20230225_195528 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiVaCa) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52711554949_4dca45e930_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oiWuQV)20230225_195549 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiWuQV) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52710768607_3a8f69e1f5_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oiSt6i)20230225_195729 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiSt6i) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52711707225_665ae2bd86_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oiXh7n)20230225_195705 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiXh7n) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52710770162_25d3e962bc_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oiSty7)20230225_195658 (https://flic.kr/p/2oiSty7) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

[JimLev]

Those look like the same sliders I bought. I then swapped my FFR seats (without the sliders) for a set of high back Mazda Miata seats that came with sliders.
When I have time I think I’ll chop off the non OE sliders on the Miata seats and install the ones I bought as they work really nice.

[Just 1 More]

nothing exciting, just made my fuel vapor system yesterday. The check valve fitting goes to the vapor cannister then to an old fuel filter that has a sintered bronze filter in it.
179897179898

Confirmed that I have the vapor canister upside down, tubes should be on top.

[Ltfracing]

Just wondering what wheels are on it,and what size tires,thank you

[Just 1 More]

Just wondering what wheels are on it,and what size tires,thank you

Currently, It has Jegs rims, Fronts are 195/45-17 Rears are 295/50-15 but those are only temporary and what came with the car. They are being replaced with Schott Accelerators 18x9 285/40-18 & 20x11 315/35-20

[Just 1 More]

Chipping away at the "to do" list, A/C unit mounted

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52720788740_c35ab7f722_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ojKPJd)20230301_190854 (https://flic.kr/p/2ojKPJd) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

[Just 1 More]

I bet I rearranged those bulkhead fittings more than a dozen times looking for what works the best.. I think i'm close. Waiting on the Comp manifold and a bracket for the drier before I can go any further.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734236874_239b9e11c4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2okWKoA)20230307_202222 (https://flic.kr/p/2okWKoA) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52734465978_06201da624_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2okXVuE)20230307_192433 (https://flic.kr/p/2okXVuE) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

[narly1]

As we used to say back in the day looking "sano".

Earl

[TxMike64]

I'm going to steal your pic to point out a question that I have.

181348
See the attached image: are the floorpans supposed to go on top of the bottom horizonal flange of the lower firewall pieces? (they're under in the image)

[Just 1 More]

I'm going to steal your pic to point out a question that I have.

181348
See the attached image: are the floorpans supposed to go on top of the bottom horizonal flange of the lower firewall pieces? (they're under in the image)

Great question, I do not know the answer. These were like this when I bought the unfinished kit

[FF33rod]

The firewall and footbox fronts install long before the floor pieces in both the Gen 1 and Gen 2 build manuals so they would end up under....

Steve

[RoadRacer]

The firewall and footbox fronts install long before the floor pieces in both the Gen 1 and Gen 2 build manuals so they would end up under....

Steve

As Steve said.

[Mastertech5]

Ditto. I had about 1/4" space between the floor and the footbox pieces. I jacked them up using a 2x4 and drilled the rivet holes. Then I gooped them with the marine adhesive, jacked them back up and 3/16 riveted them. 4 on each side.

[Just 1 More]

The firewall and footbox fronts install long before the floor pieces in both the Gen 1 and Gen 2 build manuals so they would end up under....

Steve


Ditto. I had about 1/4" space between the floor and the footbox pieces. I jacked them up using a 2x4 and drilled the rivet holes. Then I gooped them with the marine adhesive, jacked them back up and 3/16 riveted them. 4 on each side.

Dang, I better read that manual a little better. Mine came with the floor panel under the lip of the firewall so I assumed that was correct.

[RoadRacer]

Dang, I better read that manual a little better. Mine came with the floor panel under the lip of the firewall so I assumed that was correct.

Yeah, just think of the joint, one is much harder to get water through. But since you'll caulk anyway, not a huge thing.

[Just 1 More]

This is as good as it's going to get. Adding in the heater valve and drier really boogered things up for me in the clean and neat look. Once the body is on and the lower front skirts, it should hide a lot of it. So this is it until I get another brainfart and change it. I'll clean up the sleeving with heatshrink once everything is crimped.
181623181624181625

[sread]

Something to keep in mind - you are going to have to install the door striker mount bracket after the body goes on. It goes right behind where you have your hoses going thru the fire wall and the 2 carriage bolts install from the outside pointing in. Better figure out a technique for it now or you will be hating life a little later.

[FF33rod]

This is as good as it's going to get. Adding in the heater valve and drier really boogered things up for me in the clean and neat look. Once the body is on and the lower front skirts, it should hide a lot of it. So this is it until I get another brainfart and change it. I'll clean up the sleeving with heatshrink once everything is crimped.


Looks great, nice and tidy!

Steve

[Just 1 More]

As I figured, the header and drier tried to occupy some of the same space so on to Revision # 43, Moved the drier to the firewall, got a 90 degree fitting to come directly off the bulkhead to the drier than a 135 degree fitting from the drier to the condenser hose. Still need to make a bracket to secure the drier to the firewall but that'll be the easy part.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52784240333_51ed7e7e62_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oqn2Fc)20230331_125021 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqn2Fc) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52783232762_54cb76a603_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oqgSah)20230331_125038 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqgSah) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

[Mastertech5]

You should keep the dryer sealed up with the plugs it comes with until your ready to assemble the whole system after getting you're hoses set. The dessicant in it will absorb any moisture in the air and become saturated, then it can't do it's job for your system charge. Mine came with a 2 piece bracket and hose clamps that can be used to mount in various places. When the system is charged, you watch the sight glass on the top of the dryer for bubbles. When they stop wait 5-10 seconds and then stop charging, it's full. It should be evacuated for an hour with an AC vacuum pump before charging. If your compressor comes with the PAG oil in it you should only add 1 more ounce to the system. R134a cans are available with PAG oil in it. 1 can of that and then straight R134a. If taking it to a shop then they "should" know, but remind the Tech because I'm sure they've never done one of these before. All the cars they work on have a label that tells them how much refrigerant and oil to put in the system.

[Just 1 More]

You should keep the dryer sealed up with the plugs it comes with until your ready to assemble the whole system after getting you're hoses set. The dessicant in it will absorb any moisture in the air and become saturated, then it can't do it's job for your system charge. Mine came with a 2 piece bracket and hose clamps that can be used to mount in various places. When the system is charged, you watch the sight glass on the top of the dryer for bubbles. When they stop wait 5-10 seconds and then stop charging, it's full.

100% agree with you and pretty much figure with as many times as i've had to open the drier to change mounting and hose orientation, A new one prior to charging probably wouldn't be a bad idea.

[Mastertech5]

I added addition info to my post about charging your system.

[Just 1 More]

Well this isn't good
182428182429

[Mastertech5]

I hope the lifter is ok. Does your engine have roller rockers or flat tappet? I've seen the pushrod cup in the lifter flip out in situations like that. Good luck!

[Just 1 More]

I hope the lifter is ok. Does your engine have roller rockers or flat tappet? I've seen the pushrod cup in the lifter flip out in situations like that. Good luck!

Hyd Roller, and upon further inspection after pulling the heads off.. That valve is stuck open, that rocker must have just been beating it's self to death on the valve with it stuck.. Heads are at the machine shop now getting a thorough rebuild.

[Mastertech5]

Was the valve bent or just carbon build up? Look at your piston carefully for a mark. Roll the pushrod on a flat surface to see if it's bent. The valve spring could have coil bind if not the right ones for the cam lift. Look at the others at full valve lift when you turn the engine over by hand. I don't know how adept you are at engine building so just ignore me if you know all this stuff. The rollers on the end of the rockers should be centered on the valve stem at half lift. If not you get too much side pressure on the valves. Longer or shorter pushrods would be needed to correct accordingly. You tube has a bunch of videos on the subject. Wish you the best.

[Just 1 More]

It gets worse... I pulled the lifters and found "crud" in the grooves, then looking at the block with a flashlight, I can see a bunch of rusty crud in the oil passages.. Looks like someone didn't clean the block good enough after bore and hone or not at all. So the block is heading to the machine shop to join the heads. Also looks like some of the valves kissed the piston so that'll get addressed as well. Complete rebuild. Hopefully we can use the crank, rods, pistons, cam & lifters. Just disassemble, clean and reassemble with proper clearances this time. Then a good engine dyno session to dyno tune it.

[RoadRacer]

Ugh. This is another of those situations where we need a button that says “I’ve been there, it really sucks, I’m sorry to hear it but it’ll be much better after you fix it”

[FF33rod]

Yup, totally sucks. My 347 lasted a couple of hours before a crack in #1 turned it into a steam engine and another rebuild.

Steve

[Ltfracing]

Are you going to sell the jegs wheels and tires ,thank you

[Mastertech5]

That's a tough one. At least you'll know it's right

[Just 1 More]

That's a tough one. At least you'll know it's right

Yeah, It wasn't money I expected to spend but now i'll know. I'm in the process of finding a transmission shop that will go through the 700R4 since I don't trust anything about this now.

[Just 1 More]

Are you going to sell the jegs wheels and tires ,thank you

Yes, When I'm done with them as rollers

[Mastertech5]

Yeah, It wasn't money I expected to spend but now i'll know. I'm in the process of finding a transmission shop that will go through the 700R4 since I don't trust anything about this now.

I used to rebuild those when I was working. Did more transverse ones than anything else though.

[Just 1 More]

So pretty i'm never taking the plastic off.. lol
big thanks to Kim & Matt Gossett @ mcbparts.com for helping me get these from Schott Wheels. It'll probably be another year before they get on the car but so happy to have them.
183920183918183919183921

[33fromSD]

So pretty i'm never taking the plastic off.. lol
big thanks to Kim & Matt Gossett @ mcbparts.com for helping me get these from Schott Wheels. It'll probably be another year before they get on the car but so happy to have them.
183920183918183919183921

Love the Bonneville style wheels, I have similar one on my 33 except gray, not black.

Jim

183933

[Just 1 More]

I've been taking a break from the '33 but it was time to get back on it. Pulled the rear end, cleaned it real good, pulled the axles and replaced the seals. Wire brushed the calipers and painted them. Hopefully get it back in tomorrow with the new Ridetech lower arms and BMR uppers. Added a Moser cover just because. Has 3:73 gears
185613185612185614

[Just 1 More]

Got it back in... the Ridetech uppers and BMR swivel bushings and Ridetech lowers with double R joints, Waiting on the new drilled/slotted rotors then I can put the wheels and tires back on it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52969011086_feacc5f53d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oGG2zQ)20230611_183127 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGG2zQ) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52968410882_8eae367411_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oGCXau)20230611_183028 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGCXau) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52969464243_da246f75c9_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oGJmhT)20230611_182957 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGJmhT) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

[RoadRacer]

Looking at this closely, did you manage to offset the spacers front/rear of the LCA to make it more parallel to the car? That's what I did using Levy's LCA..

185717

[Just 1 More]

Looking at this closely, did you manage to offset the spacers front/rear of the LCA to make it more parallel to the car? That's what I did using Levy's LCA..

185717

Mine are dead center, no offset. It looked pretty good but now i'll have to go look at it again and see if i'm missing something. Those inner nuts are actually spacers. I drilled the threads out and used them because they were the perfect width.

[RoadRacer]

Cool, if you're ever interested in what Gordon Levy suggests (and makes sense to me), you can see how the offset spacers work in the first photo here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24163-Roadracer-s-997-build&p=478520&viewfull=1#post478520

[Just 1 More]

Pads and rotors arrived today so I buttoned up the rear, all that's left is the bleeding. And of course I just had to see how the new rims looked on there.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52978018568_94ef62026a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oHuccf)20230615_181325 (https://flic.kr/p/2oHuccf) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52978016913_5e74a68f47_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oHubGH)20230615_191516 (https://flic.kr/p/2oHubGH) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52977708439_48cc93ea0d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oHsB1c)20230615_191523 (https://flic.kr/p/2oHsB1c) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52977563961_03b81848f2_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oHrS4c)20230615_191538 (https://flic.kr/p/2oHrS4c) by F G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/153250783@N04/), on Flickr

[Mastertech5]

Nice wheels! The two most personal things in a build are #1-wheels, #2-paint. There are 1000s of wheel designs but paint is various shades of spectrum colors.

[33fromSD]

Nice wheels! The two most personal things in a build are #1-wheels, #2-paint. There are 1000s of wheel designs but paint is various shades of spectrum colors.

And I'll add, that some wheels that look good with some colors just don't look right with other colors. It can be maddening when you get to the point of wheels & colors. That was the hardest part of my build was figuring out what color to go with. Then on my 55 F100 Build I'm wrapping up now, I knew the color I wanted but finding the right wheels to go with it was the biggest struggle. Ugh

Jim

[Just 1 More]

And I'll add, that some wheels that look good with some colors just don't look right with other colors. It can be maddening when you get to the point of wheels & colors. That was the hardest part of my build was figuring out what color to go with. Then on my 55 F100 Build I'm wrapping up now, I knew the color I wanted but finding the right wheels to go with it was the biggest struggle. Ugh

Jim

You ain't kidding... choosing those wheels was an agonizing decision.. I drove my friends and family crazy with it. My plan for color is a Black Cherry pearl metallic

[Just 1 More]

Dyno disappointment... Stopped by the engine shop and they were just finishing the dyno tune on the engine, final numbers 401hp / 437tq .. should make for a fun little cruiser but honestly, I wanted more.

[RoadRacer]

Dyno disappointment... Stopped by the engine shop and they were just finishing the dyno tune on the engine, final numbers 401hp / 437tq .. should make for a fun little cruiser but honestly, I wanted more.

Really? I have no idea what I have but I always assumed ~300.. which is still a lot of fun :D

[Just 1 More]

Really? I have no idea what I have but I always assumed ~300.. which is still a lot of fun :D

My 600hp/581tq 68 Camaro doesnt even feel like 600hp to me anymore.. but my passengers say it does, so what do I know.... lol
I'm sure 400hp in these little gokarts should be plenty

[33fromSD]

401HP is pretty good, I have 436 HP in my 08 Vette, and 485 in my 15 Challenger Scat Pack and both are much heavier then the 33 but are wicked fast, I'm not sure I'd want that muscle in the 33. My little 302 in the 33 is 235 HP (I think), and with the 33 only being 2400 lbs. it pretty fast / squirely. I think you'll find 401HP in the 33 will be more than you think it is.

Keep in mind, these little 33s have next to nothing for weight in the rear.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

My LS3 is 430 up and I'm not going to get crazy unless it's in a straight line. Power to weight ratio is high on these puppies!

[Just 1 More]

Got the kids out of detention yesterday so now to get them reattached and back in the chassis. Both were new rebuilt E-bay purchases by the previous owner and came with the car. Both needed rebuilt. Trans guy found a bad bearing, bad bushing, bad pump housing. Had him install a TCI constant pressure valve body while he was in there and I got a Boss Hog 3200-3500 converter for it. Engine had bad valve guides and bad valves, sloppy main caps and a lot of crud in the oil galleries. Almost $4500 later, it's all done and done right this time.
186945

[TxMike64]

I like your trans stand... I have the same one!

400 ponies should be fun! I'm aiming for 300-325 on my 302.

[Mastertech5]

I hope that big cap distributor will fit at the firewall. It's pretty tight back there.

[Just 1 More]

I hope that big cap distributor will fit at the firewall. It's pretty tight back there.

It cleared before I removed the engine for the rebuild
186947

[Just 1 More]

I always try to test fit things before getting in too deep, just like i'm sure a lot of you do. I previously mentioned "When cranking it sounds like the starter and flywheel and torque converter don't like each other." Well, it seems the flex plate and converter bolts don't exactly line up just right and he must have forced the bolts to go in creating a somewhat slight off center flex plate/torque converter alignment and it seems the flex plate is a little warped. I was really hoping to have all this back together and in the chassis this weekend but looks like i'll be waiting on a new flex plate.

186979186980

[RoadRacer]

Good catch. Always trust your gut!

[Mastertech5]

FYI. When you go to tighten up your torque converter bolts, usually two holes are slightly slotted and one is not. Start with the unslotted one and turn them in by hand but don't tighten. Get all of them started before tightening them. I've seen this before by guys that don't know about the slots and tighten one of the slotted hole bolts before getting all the bolts started first so the unslotted hole doesn't line up quite right. You have to turn the flywheel around twice.

[Just 1 More]

FYI. When you go to tighten up your torque converter bolts, usually two holes are slightly slotted and one is not. Start with the unslotted one and turn them in by hand but don't tighten. Get all of them started before tightening them. I've seen this before by guys that don't know about the slots and tighten one of the slotted hole bolts before getting all the bolts started first so the unslotted hole doesn't line up quite right. You have to turn the flywheel around twice.

Say what??? I'll go check that out and see if that's my issue. I had no idea.

[Just 1 More]

I received the ATI flex plate and had the same issue. Called the Torque converter company and their answer was to drill the flex plate holes slightly larger... called ATI and their answer was drill the flex plate holes a little larger.. Sooooooooo, 1/32" was all it took. Drilled each hole equally on a drill press in 1/64th increments keeping everything in alignment. The holes were exactly 29/64" and ended up 31/64"

[Just 1 More]

FYI. When you go to tighten up your torque converter bolts, usually two holes are slightly slotted and one is not. Start with the unslotted one and turn them in by hand but don't tighten. Get all of them started before tightening them. I've seen this before by guys that don't know about the slots and tighten one of the slotted hole bolts before getting all the bolts started first so the unslotted hole doesn't line up quite right. You have to turn the flywheel around twice.

Mine were not slotted, each hole was exactly 29/64"

[Mastertech5]

Must be a OEM thing. Well at least the problem is solved!

[Just 1 More]

Found some ambition last night and it's back in.


187240

[Just 1 More]

A little more every day

187326

[Mastertech5]

Love the big block style valve covers!

[Just 1 More]

Love the big block style valve covers!

Oh noooo... Those are just temporary so I don't scratch up the good ones.

[Just 1 More]

I've been struggling with the trans cooler size and placement. 3rd one was the right one. Derale 13401 for the win.
187764187765187766187767

[Ltfracing]

I like it,did you drill the holes in your upper arms or did they come like that,thank you

[Just 1 More]

I like it,did you drill the holes in your upper arms or did they come like that,thank you

That's the way they came as far as I know

[Just 1 More]

Always a good feeling to hit the key and ... vroooom..

https://youtu.be/azourTbqSeo

[Mastertech5]

That link doesn't work. They are usually highlighted in blue for working links.

[jayguy]

https://www.youtube.com/embed/azourTbqSeo

Works for me

[Mastertech5]

Nice!

[Ltfracing]

Awesome

[TxMike64]

Congrats! Sounds awesome!

[Just 1 More]

Not much progress, Doing one little thing at a time, chipping away at it. Today I securely bolted in the fuel tank, redid the fuel line, again. This time I ran it through the panel using a -6an bulkhead fitting then wired in the fuel sender and used one of the weatherpack connectors.
189418189419

[Just 1 More]

This sucks.. Seems I have a leak at the coolant passages, yes, both sides. I guess i'm looking at pulling the intake and silicone around the coolant passages
189420

[JimLev]

Do any of those intake manifold bolts require sealant on them?

[Just 1 More]

Do any of those intake manifold bolts require sealant on them?

I don't know

[Mastertech5]

Not much progress, Doing one little thing at a time, chipping away at it. Today I securely bolted in the fuel tank, redid the fuel line, again. This time I ran it through the panel using a -6an bulkhead fitting then wired in the fuel sender and used one of the weatherpack connectors.
189418189419

Your vent line won't work there. The body sits down just over the tube with a 1 1/2" foam seal there and your canister may interfere with the trunk hinge.

As far as the intake bolts go, put liquid Teflon on the intake bolts. Just run it around the bottom 1/4" or so of the threads. It will coat everything as you run them in. Make sure there is no oil in the holes or on the bolts. Use grey sealant around the coolant passages on the heads and intake. Clean all surfaces with brake clean on a lint free rag. Smear the sealant around the port with your finger so you have just a light coating, standard practice in the repair business.

[Just 1 More]

Your vent line won't work there. The body sits down just over the tube with a 1 1/2" foam seal there and your canister may interfere with the trunk hinge.

As far as the intake bolts go, put liquid Teflon on the intake bolts. Just run it around the bottom 1/4" or so of the threads. It will coat everything as you run them in. Make sure there is no oil in the holes or on the bolts. Use grey sealant around the coolant passages on the heads and intake. Clean all surfaces with brake clean on a lint free rag. Smear the sealant around the port with your finger so you have just a light coating, standard practice in the repair business.

I ordered a new intake, Edelbrock Air Gap 7501-CP "Chrome Plasma Coated" and a set of Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Gaskets MS 90314-2, I'll match the gaskets to the heads and the intake to make sure they're a good fit and then the sealant on the head and intake at the water ports. I'll also do the sealant on the bolts like you mentioned. Won't know why it's leaking until I take it apart but, could very well be the wrong gasket or no sealant used at the ports.. stay tuned

[Ltfracing]

If the block was decked then the intake needs to be machined on the china rail half as much or it will leak there

[Just 1 More]

If the block was decked then the intake needs to be machined on the china rail half as much or it will leak there

I don't think the block was decked or the heads shaved but I will be looking at all possibilities when I disassemble and replace

[Just 1 More]

I pulled the intake last night, gaskets were sealed good to the intake but didn't seem to be so good to the heads. A good sharp scraper made quick work of removing anything off the head side. One thing I noticed are these scratches in the head where someone must have forced a screwdriver between the head and intake. It would make sense that the coolant was weeping up out of those microgrooves. I'll dress them up a little, apply a coat of silicone and try again with new gaskets and the new intake.
189629

[Just 1 More]

Used some 1500 grit wet/dry and brakekleen and polished the grooved areas very lightly, it's all cleaned up and ready for the new stuff.
189634

[Just 1 More]

The Felpro gaskets didn't have enough meat on them to cover the top of the head ports so had to make a parts run and found some Cometic printoseal that fit perfect. Thread sealant on every bolt, silicone around the water ports and on the front and rear lip seals. Torqued down and walk away.. don't touch it, walk away.. just walk away
189635

[Just 1 More]

She's all back together and running great. No leaks as of yet.

https://youtu.be/oXPF5lxgv1w

[Mastertech5]

Good to hear.

[Just 1 More]

2 steps forward, 3 steps back.. how many times did you guys install and remove everything? Pulled the engine/trans last night so I can permanently install the trans tunnel and figure out what i'm going to do with the firewall, Paint or Polish, what to do ?????
191302191303

[FF33rod]

How many times? I'll let you know when I stop.... I don't think it ever stops, it just slows down....

Steve

[Just 1 More]

Got the QA1's installed, Did my headlight wires a little different. Stole the idea from JimLev.
191674191669191671191672191673

[Just 1 More]

Today was the day for the firewall insulation. The FFR kit comes with dynamat and foam, I just got foam so I bought a box of Second Skin Damplifier Pro sound matting. I Removed the A/C unit and cut my Second Skin Damplifier Pro to fit all the shapes then put the FFR foam on top of that and then reinstalled the A/C unit, hopefully for the last time.
Also cut to fit the Second Skin Megablock heat insulator for the trans tunnel. Installed the gas pedal. All little things but things to now check off the list.
191701191702

[Just 1 More]

I decided to try for a mirror finish on the firewall.. That's a lot of hand polishing but I think i'm close
191722191721

[TxMike64]

191671

I just ordered the same Milwaukee rivet tool. How to you like it and how does it handle the 3/16" firewall rivets?

[Just 1 More]

I just ordered the same Milwaukee rivet tool. How to you like it and how does it handle the 3/16" firewall rivets?

Handles the rivets effortlessly and has been pretty handy for holding a washer or P clamp on the back side of the rivet and just pulling the trigger, however, mine does not like to cycle the stem all the way back to the catch can.. mine kicks the stems back out the front which can be a little frustrating but not the end of the world.

[Just 1 More]

Welded the flanges on the Borlas tonight, maybe get the exhaust finished this weekend.

193227

[Just 1 More]

DEI Form a shield
193326

[Just 1 More]

Since i've decided to use a B&M Quick Silver shifter, I didn't need to use the trans mounted set up. So I cut the trans tunnel top mid piece to fit, settled on a shifter location, rivnuts in fiberglass seemed ok but I added some reinforcement to the back side anyway. I'll build a console to encompass the shifter with cup holders behind and a 7" or bigger radio screen in front.
193620193621

[Just 1 More]

Added a panel to hold a bus bar and the vintage air relays and circuit breaker. Added a stud for a common ground. Hooked up the battery and no sparks and no smoke so that's a relief. I clicked on the electric steering and played with the min vs max control and it's a huge difference, I like it. I need to wire in the speed sensor so it can do it's thing automatically. I'm not sure if i'm going to integrate the controller in to the dash or do an under dash mount so it's just temporarily riveted in place.
193622
193623

[Just 1 More]

Bled the masters, got all the air bubbles out

193650

[Just 1 More]

Started my thoughts on the center console, I like where this is headed. Lot's of room for refinements but so far, I like it.
193651193652

[Just 1 More]

Got the body back on today, makes for some good inspiration to keep moving forward

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[Just 1 More]

Tucking the battery in the lower passenger side trunk area
194535194536

[Just 1 More]

WHile it's cold in the garage, I can still do some little things in the house. Got the hood hinge brackets back from powdercoat
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[Just 1 More]

Did the firewall bolts last night.. man it's stressful knowing you only get one chance to get it right. I made a little spacer gauge to insure I got each hole exactly the same height.
194985194986

[Ltfracing]

Looks awesome

[Just 1 More]

Looks awesome

Thank you, That little gauge tool made it a lot easier than trying to measure each one

[Just 1 More]

Finally got the swaybar from Innovative rodding. Took a few minutes to polish the arms. I'll get it installed this weekend and start getting the frontend completed.
195173195174195175

[RoadRacer]

Finally got the swaybar from Innovative rodding. Took a few minutes to polish the arms. I'll get it installed this weekend and start getting the frontend completed.
195173195174195175

Nice, didnt think they were doing anything any more

[Just 1 More]

Nice, didnt think they were doing anything any more

He really isn't, I caught him on a good day and he agreed to do one for me.. it wasn't cheap and took almost 10 weeks

[Just 1 More]

I got things put back together last night to the point of being able to fire it up again.. so good to be making progress. This is with the Borla Pro XS mufflers

https://youtu.be/37ee2qb-mzM?si=OvyqCBN9Vhf82gMJ

[Just 1 More]

First of the little gremlins starting to show themselves.. found a micro split in the aluminum tubing in the flare. Had to cut and re-flare it with new fitting and sleeve. Better to find it now than when the body is on complete

195290

[Just 1 More]

Another Gremlin.. a little brake fluid leak at the rear "T" hose. Pass side fitting wouldn't seal. Took it apart and it looks like someone tried to single flare it and they REALLY SUCKED! Good thing I have a double flare tool.
195467195468

[JimLev]

With flares like that you may want to check all of them.

[Just 1 More]

With flares like that you may want to check all of them.

Good point... I was just looking at the leaky one.

[33fromSD]

Good point... I was just looking at the leaky one.

What I've experienced over the years with bad flares is once you fix one, the next in line will leak, then the next, then the next, it's like dominos.

Probably because as you resolve one and get it sealed, then the line pressure increases and finds another weak spot to escape.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

Weakest link syndrome.

[Just 1 More]

Gettig the dash panel finished up. Cut the holes for the A/C vents and Vintage Air control panel. Always scarey making those cuts because once you cut, you're committed. Playing with colors for the body and figured the dash was good place to try it and see if it's the color I want. It's a factory color called Toreador Red Metallic. The garage lighting is different from the outdoors natural lighting but it gives a good idea of the color.
196024196025196026

[Just 1 More]

Reached that milestone we all work so hard to get to...

https://youtu.be/Ej6cv83RG3c?si=hACxXC3ar2IX_AL-

[Just 1 More]

Schott Accelerators
Nitto 555 G2's
18x9 275/40-18
20x11 315/35-20
196614196615196616

[Just 1 More]

It was One man door wrastlin today. After a few hours, I got one hung, hinged, opens, closes, doesn't hit the body anywhere and it latches.. that's the most important thing.. latching closed. Duct tape and rubber hoses took the place of a helper for setting gaps.
Still needs tweeking but that's for another day.
196633

[Guy G]

Just started following your posts
Great stuff so far!
Started mine about 45 days ago. Picking up some ideas from yours.
I ended up powder coating my firewall. Thought about polishing it, but I figured it would be a pain keeping up on it once the engine went in.
About ready to pull the trigger on a Skip White 383. Can’t wait for that fun to start.
Thanks for the updates.
Looks real good!

196634

[Just 1 More]

Just started following your posts
Great stuff so far!
Started mine about 45 days ago. Picking up some ideas from yours.
I ended up powder coating my firewall. Thought about polishing it, but I figured it would be a pain keeping up on it once the engine went in.
About ready to pull the trigger on a Skip White 383. Can’t wait for that fun to start.
Thanks for the updates.
Looks real good!

196634

Yeah, not sure how the polished firewall is going to hold up. the new tires are definitely gravel kickers. My 383 came with the build but I had it re-built at NYE's racing engines. 401hp 437tq. What's your Skip White HP numbers?

[Just 1 More]

driver door bolted up and functional

196642

[Just 1 More]

Deck lid bolted up

196643196644

[Guy G]

Yeah, not sure how the polished firewall is going to hold up. the new tires are definitely gravel kickers. My 383 came with the build but I had it re-built at NYE's racing engines. 401hp 437tq. What's your Skip White HP numbers?

The 383 I’m looking at is advertised at 503 hp, 484 torque. I’ll know the actual when it arrives with the Dyno sheet. From speaking to Skip, at Skip White performance, it will be very street friendly. He’s used that combo often.

[Just 1 More]

Added some Hagan Fatties on FFR arms
196977196978196979196980

[JimLev]

I bought those same Hagan Fatties, nice mirrors.

[cvacca]

Schott Accelerators
Nitto 555 G2's
18x9 275/40-18
20x11 315/35-20
196614196615196616

I'm interested in buying the McQueen bike fenders like you. Can't wait to see them on your car with those size tires and wheels that you have choosen.

[Just 1 More]

I'm interested in buying the McQueen bike fenders like you. Can't wait to see them on your car with those size tires and wheels that you have choosen.

Not going to be so easy, I need to do some serious modification to the fronts to get the coverage I need. Tires are bigger than the fenders

[cvacca]

275's in the front are wide, but look mean! How do you think the 315's in the rear will fit under the fenders, or do you think they will need to be modified also?

[Just 1 More]

275's in the front are wide, but look mean! How do you think the 315's in the rear will fit under the fenders, or do you think they will need to be modified also?

The 315's will barely fit, might stick out a little but that's ok with me.

[Just 1 More]

Close enough
197904197905

[Just 1 More]

Had a little self inflicted set back. I drilled a hole in my fuel tank. So, great excuse to get a Boyd's tank. Ordered one this morning. Pulled the tank out last night.

198983

198984

[Just 1 More]

Finished up the McQueen rear fenders last night. Didn't see how many fasteners to use so I did 7 using 1/4-20 rivnuts (deep reach for fiberglass) and stainless button heads on each one. Started 2" from each end and spaced 8.5" apart was the perfect layout.

199410
199411
199412
199413

[cvacca]

Good job! Will be nice to see when it's back on the ground how the spacing of those big 315's look with the edge of the fenders.

[Just 1 More]

While the tank is out, I took the opportunity to add a coating of the Boom Mat spray. This is my first time using this product and so far, I really like it. Nice thick coating that seems to do what it's intended to do. Did a little on the inner doors also.
199593199594

[TxMike64]

Those fenders look great!

[Just 1 More]

Installed the 3pt belts and removed the 4pt harness'. I think I got them installed correctly, didn't have any instructions.
199752
199753
199754

[Just 1 More]

For anyone wondering, Since the gauge was set up for a 33-240 sender, and Boyds doesn't offer one, The solution for the Boyds tank, sending unit and gauge was an Autometer fuel bridge, and a VDO sender. All is right with the world again
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-226-625
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-9109

200238

[Just 1 More]

I've been working on something different, Got it put together last night and fired right up. Didn't run it long, still have to do water lines, figure out how to run some stainless braid fuel lines and new plug wires. but.... IT RUNS!!!!

https://youtu.be/omqccc0eXOE?si=v_YEH-AEU3cTUtAR

[Just 1 More]

200997
200998
200998
200999

[FF33rod]

Now that is cool! even if it is a Chev... ;)

Steve

[Just 1 More]

Now that is cool! even if it is a Chev... ;)

Steve

LOL .. Thanks

[Ltfracing]

That is bad a#$

[Just 1 More]

Did some timing tuning today, Removed the vacuum advance and locked the mechanical advance, set timing at 32 degrees and shes snappy and happy.

https://youtu.be/XHno2DRU5M4

[Just 1 More]

Made a Manometer to fit the 4 barrel carbs so tomorrow I pay with the carbs and see if I can get them syncd
201092

[Just 1 More]

made fuel lines.. i'm kind of liking the old school red & blue vibe

201121

[Mastertech5]

Cross ram manifolds are the coolest looking but give up some horsepower to a tunnel ram. Very cool! Love it!

[Just 1 More]

Cross ram manifolds are the coolest looking but give up some horsepower to a tunnel ram. Very cool! Love it!

Yeah, Horsepower was definitely not a consideration... lol

[Just 1 More]

Pair of obsolete (and pretty rare) Arias Viper Scoops... because i like to be unique :cool:
201622201623201625

[progmgr1]

Man, those just scream '60's Hot Rod! Way Cool!

Keith HR #894

[Mastertech5]

Love it!

[Just 1 More]

WE GOT A VIN!!!!!!!!
Got my letter today from the BMV with an assigned VIN#.. now to continue with the process

[cvacca]

Congrats! That's a big step. Just wondering, how did you make out with the rear McQueen bike fenders and your wide_ss tires? Did you modify the fenders or just adjust the rear ride height to clear them?

[Just 1 More]

Congrats! That's a big step. Just wondering, how did you make out with the rear McQueen bike fenders and your wide_ss tires? Did you modify the fenders or just adjust the rear ride height to clear them?

So far i've just adjusted ride height so they don't rub. I thought it would look stupid but it doesn't, at least not to me. I really like the look of a full tire in the fenders rather than small tires tucked inside of the fenders.

[cvacca]

Great to hear. Any chance you can share a picture to see what those look like? I haven't ordered my wheels and tires yet, was kind of waiting to see how your 335's fit under the fenders first when the car is on the ground. I'm running an IRS, so my measurements might be a little different...

[Dmp0001]

Nice work!

[Just 1 More]

Great to hear. Any chance you can share a picture to see what those look like? I haven't ordered my wheels and tires yet, was kind of waiting to see how your 335's fit under the fenders first when the car is on the ground. I'm running an IRS, so my measurements might be a little different...

Here's what it looks like.. they're 315/35-20
203147

[Just 1 More]

Another milestone... Got the title in the mail over the weekend.. it's officially official.. It's Titled, insured and now tagged. The State of Indiana saw fit to title it as a...
YEAR: 1933
MAKE: Factory Five Racing
Model Name: Roadster
Body type: Coup
Odometer: Exempt

We are now street legal

[progmgr1]

Congratulations! Another major milestone.

Now get out there and drive the wheels off!

Keith HR #894

[Just 1 More]

And we're back to a single carb .. Unfortunately, I just couldn't get the crossram running good enough. SO to make life easier, back to one
205438205439

[Ltfracing]

Pm sent

[Just 1 More]

I wanted something different than the standard FFR rear exhaust ovals. I ended up not using anything from the front pipes back. Installed Borla Pro XS mufflers, 2.5" over the axle pipes, cut, weld grind until everything fit the way I wanted. Finished off with some Stainless Works 1" x 8" tips.
206367

[Just 1 More]

Had a little issue with the 700R4 TV cable leaking so my choices were to pull engine & trans or create an access panel in the trans tunnel. I retained the fiberglass and insulation from the tunnel and made it part of the access panel cover plate. Yeah, you'll have to drill out the outer 1/8 aluminum rivets if you ever need to get in there again but thats much easier than the alternative.
206368
206369

[Just 1 More]

When I installed the Boyd's tank, I had to make a bracket holder for the filler since I have a Gen 2. I was not thrilled with it and definitely not thrilled with it being inside the trunk. So last night I got the hole saw out and moved it. Always fun cutting holes in your car... lol
Tried to bevel the top edge to give it a little less of a sharp edge look but might still need some work. Thinking of ways to maybe recess it. Might look better painted to match the body, we shall see. 206673206669206670

[Just 1 More]

playing with dead pedal ideas
206671206672

[TxMike64]

When I installed the Boyd's tank, I had to make a bracket holder for the filler since I have a Gen 2. I was not thrilled with it and definitely not thrilled with it being inside the trunk. So last night I got the hole saw out and moved it. Always fun cutting holes in your car... lol
Tried to bevel the top edge to give it a little less of a sharp edge look but might still need some work. Thinking of ways to maybe recess it. Might look better painted to match the body, we shall see. 206673206669206670

I have a very similar plan! Looks Good!

[Just 1 More]

A little more work on the hood contour to the body
209064209065209066209067

[Just 1 More]

Took advantage of the warm day and Finished the rear swaybar today. made brackets for the rear axle housing and welded them on. Thanks to James Shaw for the suggestion of making the arms longer. I made adjustable length arm extensions for more adjustability. Ignore my welds, i'm not a welder and i'm even worse laying on my back.
210085210086

[Just 1 More]

I made a couple e-brake cable holders out of some 1st Gen Camaro cable holders
210087210088

[Just 1 More]

Bump steer kit done. Had to take 3/4" off the inner tie rod, probably should have taken a full inch but I can always revisit it if needed.
210286210287

[Just 1 More]

Got the hood hinge sorted out and now have a functional hood. I need to figure out how I want to "latch" it at the back. I'm not a big fan of the FFR supplied latch and cable. Also going to need a big hole for an air cleaner or scoop, it just clears the carb
210288

[PNWTim]

Looks good Frank. Looking at that hood when it's up like that makes me think you could use it as an auxiliary propulsion device with an appropriate tailwind. You could peek through the hole you're going to cut for your scoop.

[Just 1 More]

Tunes, Nav and Backup cam
212016212017212018