Engine Install Question

[AA-ron]

Happy Saturday everyone,
Ok, so I just hit an odd moment in my build where I'm not sure I can go any further without some things showing up on my back order list. However, I have a motor/transmission, motor mounts, and a wife who's willing to help me with the installation. I'm way ahead of my schedule to drop the motor in and I wanted to make sure I'm not shoehorning myself into any issues. Here's what I have done to date-- please let me know if there's anything that I should do before proceeding.
Front and rear suspension done
IRS done
Steering rack installed
Brake and fuel lines done
Gas tank done
Aluminum panels done (not drivers side foot box inner engine bay facing panel)
Wire harness in place

Here's what I'm waiting on (POL):
Steering components steering rack to cockpit
Clutch quadrant
Wheels/Tires

What do you think? Motor time??

Also, should I put the frame on jack stands or is it ok to keep it on the wooden frame dollie that I made per the plans on this forum?
Any thoughts you might have would be greatly appreciated. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to dropping a motor in.

Thanks

[GoDadGo]

Since you've got the steering rack, brake lines and complete suspension done, it is okay to install the engine and transmission. It will save you some space in your garage so why not knock it while you wait for back ordered parts.

I would suggest completing all of the engine bay aluminum panels, except for the outer portion of the drivers foot box (The Dog House) since you are still waiting on your clutch quadrant and steering shaft goodies. The inner panels of the footboxes and firewall really need to be in place prior to installing your powerplant since you need extra space to do all of the drilling and riveting.

Also, when you install the engine and transmission, it will go in a lot easier if you can lift the rear of the chassis. In my case, since I don't have an engine hoist, we rolled the car under the assembled power plant, but the process is the same none the less. Lifting the rear of the car makes installing the engine a lot like putting your foot in your shoes in the morning.

Shown below is a Swamp Land Style Installation, Removal and Re-Installation which will hopefully give you a chuckle:

Installation:
https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4

Removal:
https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k

Re-Installation:
https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8

Good Luck, Be Careful & Take Your Wife Out To Dinner (Some Place Nice) When You All Are Done!

Steve

[Scott L]

I would get the chassis off the dolly and on to jack stands before it gets any heavier. With an engine hoist and a leveler, this is an easy one hour job. Go slow, be careful, and you will be surprised how simple it is.

[Steve in Snohomish]

This is how I did an engine/trans swap in a 1969 Firebird back in the early 80's:cool:
Only difference being that I was doing it alone.
Took awhile, but it works.

Steve

[AA-ron]

Thanks for the advice! I'm going to drop the engine in tomorrow morning. And yes, my wife is going to get a nice dinner out of it-- probably a nice warm dinner as my garage is unheated and it's supposed to be in the low 20's tomorrow morning.

[edwardb]

It's going to be very difficult to get the aluminum drivers side foot box inner engine bay panel installed and riveted with the engine in the way. Steve (GoDadGo) mentioned it but looks like you're proceeding? Not sure why you're not going ahead with that one. Normal (and recommended) to leave the outside and top covers off until the final body installation. But not the inner one.

[Mike.Bray]

I installed my engine/trans with a hoist and leveler and the car on dollies (https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/2-piece-1500-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-67338.html).

I ended up having to pull it back out to replace some O-rings on the core plugs. Read my post here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42007-Mike-in-Texas-FFR-Roadster-Build-Almost-to-Go-Kart!&p=505180&viewfull=1#post505180) about the value of a good leveler. Pretty much can't stress enough the difference the leveler from Summit made.

[CraigS]

I installed my engine/trans with a hoist and leveler and the car on dollies (https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/2-piece-1500-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-67338.html).

I ended up having to pull it back out to replace some O-rings on the core plugs. Read my post here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42007-Mike-in-Texas-FFR-Roadster-Build-Almost-to-Go-Kart!&p=505180&viewfull=1#post505180) about the value of a good leveler. Pretty much can't stress enough the difference the leveler from Summit made.
Absolutely agree. A leveler makes things so much easier and safer for your fingers. The engine trans needs to go from maybe 40 degrees engine up to level as it goes down and back. Having a leveler you can do that a degree or two at a time. Also be sure to put bearing grease on all of the threads and bearings or bushings so it works smoothly w/ the 600# hanging from it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Set the nose as low as possible while still allowing clearance for the hoist legs. Set the rear a few inches higher A leveler is invaluable and makes it a 10 minute one man job.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175235&d=1668962352

Good luck!

Jeff

175235

[AA-ron]

I did put the footbox panels in place. I'm not sure why I didn't do that earlier-- I think I was just waiting for my clutch quadrant to come in. In any event, I put the panels in place and using an engine leveler, was able to drop the motor right in. It literally took me longer to attached the lifting chains to the block than it did to get the engine in place. I dropped the front of the car almost to the ground and raised the rear about 6" higher. The tranni cleared and dropped right in. I did this solo-- not sure how more people would have made it any easier.
Thanks for all the advice!

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations!