Coyote tach wire question

[Rian_Colorado]

The FFR supplied instructions show taking a coil pack signal wire, and "cutting away the insulation". I've never done "Y" connections in this manner, as it seems super delicate and ripe for error. (I also hate just "wrapping it in electrical wire", instead of heat shrink..). I've always cut the wire, and used a butt or solder connection using 1 wire on side A and 2 wires on side B.

Is there any specific reason that they request that the connection be made by cutting away the insulation? will cutting the wire and connecting via a splice cause enough potential loss to be an issue with the signal?

Seems like a super picky question, but then I thought.... well.... MAYBE there's a good reason for doing it that way?

RR

[JohnK]

I used a Posi-Tap (https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html) for the tach connection on my Gen 2 coyote. I know others have successfully stripped insulation and made that connection, but to me that seems unnecessarily invasive and risky. That wire is pretty thin, and repairing it if it were accidentally cut while trying to strip insulation would be somewhat problematic. I've used posi-taps for many years in some pretty high-vibration applications (e.g., single cylinder dirt bikes) and never had one fail. In this specific application, even if it did fail the only consequence is that you'd lose the tach signal until you re-tighten the posi-tap.

[toadster]

Posi-Tap is a great method, minimal invasion, I just measured the wire it's an 18GA, a pack of 6 is only $10

Lockitt Posi-Tap 6pc pack #605/6 16-18 awg Blue (https://amzn.to/3XcLgQe)

[Rian_Colorado]

Damnit! I always forget those things exist. I used them when adding a power step product to my truck, and they're awesome. Perfect for this application too

Thanks!
Hopefully video of First start and go-cart coming soon (though go-carting in 40 degree weather might be less fun....)

RR

[edwardb]

I've done this a couple times and didn't find it that difficult to very gently tease off a small section of insulation to add the tachometer tap. A brand new sharp single edge razor blade works very well. I'm generally not a fan of electrical tape either. But there's nothing else exposed in this case. So a modest wrap of electrical tape around the splice and then all three wires should be fine. Haven't used one, but the tap looks interesting. I would be a little concerned about cutting the wire, stripping both ends, and adding the tach wire in the splice. You're going to use up about 1/2" of the coil signal wire and not sure if the available length supports that. If you do go that way, a solder sleeve might be an option. I'd just be careful. There are a lot of not so great products out there. Like the box of 100 for $10 on Amazon... Raychem's are generally considered top notch even though more expensive.