Trimming Doors, Hood and Trunk on a Mark III

[Charles Fuller]

Today's question for all the body people. After finally mating the body to chassis after many years of building, I need to work on the body gaps. Watching the FF video on setting the body gaps on a Mark 4. I am wondering. If there is a better way to do this. For example, they just estimate the amount of material to be taken off. Run 1/4 tape, grind off to the tape. Refit and try again. Sound good. But for us without extra doors sitting around. A mistake is near disastrous. I plan to measure 3/16-inch, mark, run tape and grind off. But is there a better way? What did you do? Thanks

[rich grsc]

Apply tape on the door, trunk and hood edges. Set in place, then use a protractor with a pencil. Trace along the body, the pencil will leave a mark on the tape, sand to the pencil mark

[Jeff Kleiner]

I use the same basic principle but rather than taping and using a compass with pencil I use a caliper with a sharp end and just scratch my line into the gelcoat. A word of caution---don't start working to a final gap too early. Just take enough off initially to get the moving panels into the openings then work on positioning and the bodywork shaping. I don't set the finished gap until all bodywork has been completed and everything is in it's final location.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174932&d=1541514106

Jeff

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[GoDadGo]

Sir Jeffski really helped me with every aspect of my bodywork and my car came out great.

https://youtu.be/po1Bb2_XDDk

I worked slowly and we snuck up on the gaps and problem areas to make it look right.

https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA

Had Jeff not told me what to do and how to do it, the car wouldn't have turned out nearly as nice.

[rich grsc]

Jeff you have much more experience with scribing, if I did it your way there might be so many scratches in the gelcoat I'd sand half the edge away.:( If the pencil slips it's easy to put down a new piece of tape. :eek:

[Gumball]

I did all the bodywork on my Mk3.1 by myself and used a similar method to what Jeff mentions. I first made it so the panels would just fit within the openings, then once everything was adjusted to where it was going to be I used the "paint stick" method to do the finished gaps.

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[Jeff Kleiner]

At the risk of getting scolded by Brother Bat for giving away more secrets I suppose I might as well tell this one too. No paint sticks for me; a plastic filler spreader with 40 grit to do the next to last fitting then followed up with 80 grit on both sides.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174942&d=1668467234

Since the plastic is flexible and will bend you can pull it all along the gap and around the corners. Do this with the panel (door, hood, trunk) final adjusted and latched. Works great for creating a consistent gap…see photo above ;)

Jeff

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[j.miller]

At the risk of getting scolded by Brother Bat for giving away more secrets I suppose I might as well tell this one too. No paint sticks for me; a plastic filler spreader with 40 grit to do the next to last fitting then followed up with 80 grit on both sides.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174942&d=1668467234

Since the plastic is flexible and will bend you can pull it all along the gap and around the corners. Do this with the panel (door, hood, trunk) final adjusted and latched. Works great for creating a consistent gap…see photo above ;)

Jeff

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It's cool Capt. You can give'm that tip. Just don't go into any detail about using a 12ga shotgun or chainsaw.....those are for professional such as ourselves...Da Bat

[Jeff Kleiner]

It's cool Capt. You can give'm that tip. Just don't go into any detail about using a 12ga shotgun or chainsaw.....those are for professional such as ourselves...Da Bat

If you want a professional we’re gonna’ have to call in Mr. Mustang ;)

O-Ring

[rich grsc]

If you want a professional we’re gonna’ have to call in Mr. Mustang ;)

O-Ring
Damn:rolleyes: