View Full Version : Roadster build questions - proportional valve, access panels, door cards
dbo_texas
11-03-2022, 08:20 AM
I'm looking for some feedback on a couple of items on my build. Would love to hear some opinions from the group.
Access panels over gas tank - do people typically rivet these to the trunk floor or use rivnuts and screw them down? How often would you need to actually remove these to service the connections on the gas tank? I have the Breeze single line fuel kit w/ fixed pressure regulator (for Coyote setup) installed, but otherwise seems like other than replacing that fuel filter/regulator down the road I wouldn't really need to get in there. And if I did I could just drop the tank down right?
I have a Forte Hydroboost setup (with Wilwood brakes all around) - overkill I know - but my question is should I consider putting in a proportional valve to control front/rear bias? Or just stick with the nominal setup? I don't plan on tracking this car very much - will mostly be a street car. I've seen folks do it both with and without the proportional valve on a hydroboost setup.
Does anyone have a template for the door cards in PDF format? I'd like to get some made from the same place that I'm planning to have make my seats (Intatrim). They've made other FFR Roadster interiors (for example Hacksaw84's), but they said they didn't keep any of the templates they used so I would need to provide one. Hoping someone has one I can use. This would be for an MK4 if it makes a difference.
rich grsc
11-03-2022, 08:47 AM
Access panels, I used rivnuts and small screws, glad I did as I had to replace the fuel pump. A 100 times easier than dropping the fuel tank, I know I've done both. You could rivet and drill, just be very careful not to drill too deep.
I would never install a proportioning valve, it just degrades the braking power you paid big bucks to get, better to try different brake pads.
Can't help with the door panels
Jeff Kleiner
11-03-2022, 08:53 AM
1) Rivets are fine but if you really want to do rivnuts there is no downside other than additional effort. FYI, regarding frequency of service in the area…after 15 years I have never had a need to access the pump/pickup on my own car and to the best of my knowledge it hasn’t been necessary on any of the ones I have built for others.
2) Drive the car and see what you actually have first. When running a dual chamber master cylinder like yours it is almost never necessary to reduce rear brake force and in fact the opposite is true. There are a whole lot of roadsters running around with prop valves plumbed into the rear that are adjusted to wide open.
3) I got nuthin’
Cheers,
Jeff
JohnK
11-03-2022, 08:59 AM
My $0.02:
1) I used 6-32 rivnuts and SS buttonhead screws for the fuel pump and sender access panels.
2) You didn't specifically ask this, but by most accounts the Wilwood brakes are fine by themselves without power assist and in fact power assist makes the Wilwood setup too sensitive. That notwithstanding, if you want to be able to adjust front/rear bias and you're using the Wilwood pedal setup you can add the Wilwood bias adjuster setup which is a remote bias bar adjuster.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-340-4990?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwzY2bBhB6EiwAPpUpZn8PKJGdYOqFLeb6g6cE GQPEEV58HPABKMb2RBVVk5sn6bOqGMxVnhoCJQwQAvD_BwE
3) I can't help with the door cards.
dbo_texas
11-03-2022, 09:06 AM
My $0.02:
1) I used 6-32 rivnuts and SS buttonhead screws for the fuel pump and sender access panels.
2) You didn't specifically ask this, but by most accounts the Wilwood brakes are fine by themselves without power assist and in fact power assist makes the Wilwood setup too sensitive. That notwithstanding, if you want to be able to adjust front/rear bias and you're using the Wilwood pedal setup you can add the Wilwood bias adjuster setup which is a remote bias bar adjuster.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-340-4990?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwzY2bBhB6EiwAPpUpZn8PKJGdYOqFLeb6g6cE GQPEEV58HPABKMb2RBVVk5sn6bOqGMxVnhoCJQwQAvD_BwE
3) I can't help with the door cards.
On #2, I agree hydroboost + Wilwood isn't the ideal setup but that's what came with the kit and it's already been installed so I don't want to redo the work. I had previously discussed on one thread whether to leave it as is or pull out the hydroboost and go back to the dual master cylinder Wilwood setup - the overwhelming response was to leave it alone so that's what I plan on doing. With the hydroboost you can't use the bias adjuster setup (or at least that is my understanding).
JohnK
11-03-2022, 09:11 AM
Gotcha. Sorry about the bad info then. I know a little about the hydroboost setup but have never installed one so don't know all the details of it.
Blitzboy54
11-03-2022, 01:49 PM
I used the machine screws for the access panel and they have worked fine. I planed on rivnuts but my tool broke before I got to it and that was my "temporary" solution. I too replaced my fuel pump (converted to an in tank from an external). The access was extremely helpful.
Wish I could help on the other stuff. My only 2 cents on the brakes is I have Wilwoods (6 piston front and 4 piston rears) and have NO trouble stopping. I would be afraid I would sneeze and jerk the car into a dead stop. Curious how that turns out actually. Please follow up when you get to there.
Another option to avoid dropping the gas tank is to enlarge the access panel.
174459
Lidodrip
11-03-2022, 07:57 PM
With regards to #2 - I have a hydroboost system from Mike Forte with a Wilwood proportioning valve. I am using stock brakes. I have only done a few go-kart runs so I can't tell you if it is worth installing/needed. That said, my guess is that it would be easier to install up front rather than after things get buttoned up.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174380&d=1667329827
James
dbo_texas
11-04-2022, 12:26 AM
With regards to #2 - I have a hydroboost system from Mike Forte with a Wilwood proportioning valve. I am using stock brakes. I have only done a few go-kart runs so I can't tell you if it is worth installing/needed. That said, my guess is that it would be easier to install up front rather than after things get buttoned up.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174380&d=1667329827
James
Yeah I was actually looking through your album and saw your setup and had me second guessing everything! That picture is the one that got the gears turning in my head :)
Mike.Bray
11-04-2022, 10:15 AM
FWIW, I never understood having massive Wilwood brakes with massive tires on a 2200 lb car and thinking a booster is needed or even desirable. To me it's just a way to be constantly testing the seat belts.
I subscribe to the KISS method as much as possible.
rich grsc
11-04-2022, 12:00 PM
FWIW, I never understood having massive Wilwood brakes with massive tires on a 2200 lb car and thinking a booster is needed or even desirable. To me it's just a way to be constantly testing the seat belts.
I subscribe to the KISS method as much as possible.
Yep, I agree, probably not the way to go.