View Full Version : So, You Want to Build a Roadster (Cobra replica)
So, you want to build a Cobra, but you still have a ton of questions about what that means. Well, you’ve come to the right place! The Factory Five Racing MK4 Roadster (Cobra replica) is the best-selling Cobra replicas available on the market today, and one of only a handful of options that ship a complete kit that you build yourself.
1. Assessing your Skills (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507496&viewfull=1#post507496)
2. Make A Plan – Kit Selection (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507497&viewfull=1#post507497)
3. Make A Plan – Engine Selection (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507498&viewfull=1#post507498)
4. Make A Plan – Rear Suspension Selection (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507499&viewfull=1#post507499)
5. Prepare For Delivery (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507500&viewfull=1#post507500)
6. Inventory (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507501&viewfull=1#post507501)
7. Building The Car (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507503&viewfull=1#post507503)
8. Bare Chassis (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507504&viewfull=1#post507504)
9. Aluminum Panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507505&viewfull=1#post507505)
10. Mechanical (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507506&viewfull=1#post507506)
11. Electrical (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507507&viewfull=1#post507507)
12. Engine Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507508&viewfull=1#post507508)
13. First Start (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507509&viewfull=1#post507509)
14. Go-Kart (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507510&viewfull=1#post507510)
15. The Body (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507511&viewfull=1#post507511)
16. Wrapping It Up (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44403-So-You-Want-to-Build-a-Roadster-(Cobra-replica)&p=507512&viewfull=1#post507512)
Let’s start at the beginning. The first question you probably have is, “Do I have the skills needed to build my dream Cobra from a kit?” Nobody will be able to answer this question for you, so how can you assess whether you have the right skills or not? Here is how I approached this question. First, I consider myself pretty handy and capable of doing hands-on projects with results that I’m proud of. As far as my personal automotive experience, I was comfortable with general maintenance and minor part replacements like disc brakes, alternator swaps, radiator swaps, etc. Where I drew the line was at internal engine repairs. For me, the skills and experience needed to build an engine that would last, given the precision and tolerances required, was beyond my skills and desire to learn. The next step in assessing my skills was to buy an assembly manual from Factory Five Racing. They sell either a bound copy or an electronic (PDF) copy. Either will work, and the electronic copy is instantly available and quite a bit less expensive to buy, plus you will get the bound copy with the kit. I read the manual cover-to-cover several times. Each section of the manual covers a specific system or component of the completed car, and identifies the parts and tools needed to complete that part of the build. After reviewing the manual, I was confident that I could follow it and complete each of the sections. There were a few areas I was nervous about, specifically the electrical, engine install, and body work. At this point, I turned to TheFactoryFiveForum.com and scoured the numerous build threads. What I found was an incredible treasure trove of knowledge and a community willing to help novice builders through the parts of the build that challenged their skills. This solidified my decision to take the plunge and build one of these amazing cars.
The next step was to come up with a plan for the build. Factory Five Racing offers two MK4 kit options: a base kit and a complete kit. The kit you choose will be determined by how much you prefer to source and customize your build. I believe the intent of the base kit option was originally intended to accommodate the use of a donor Mustang to pull parts from, but it also suits those that prefer to source their own parts to completely customize their creation. The complete kit includes nearly everything you need to build the car except for the running gear, battery, wheels, and tires. I’ll approach the rest of this write-up from the perspective of a complete kit build, since that is what I opted to do.
I was also reminded that there are more kit options to select from with the 289 USRC and Challenge cars! They follow much of the same design process within their respective categories.
The next aspect of the planning stage is to decide what engine, transmission, rearend you want to use. Factory Five Racing supports several combinations, so this can get pretty confusing for someone that is new to building a car. The good news is, there are plenty of proven combinations that those before you have blazed the trail on. So, how do you choose the engine? For me it came down to a few key factors. First, I wanted to use the car for normal street driving and not to race or do any sort of speed events. Second, I had a budget, which most of us have as we take on a project like this. Finally, I had a look in mind that I wanted to achieve, which for me was an old-school pushrod engine. I also wanted the drivability and reliability of electronic fuel injection. Lastly, I wanted something that would not require me to build the engine, so a crate engine was a key point in my selection.
Based on my criteria, I was drawn to the options that BluePrint Engines had to offer. The choices ranged from very mild 306 c.i. all the way of to the 351-based 427. I was looking for the compromise of cost/power and settled on the 347 c.i. with EFI and power steering mated to the tried-and-true Tremec TKO-600 transmission. Another popular choice is Ford’s modern Coyote engine, now in its third generation. The Coyote is a great choice for someone that is more interested in reliability and modern turn-key operation and incredible fuel economy, not that that is always a key consideration for most builders. Fuel economy also translates into driving range, so for those that truly want to drive these cars without stopping every couple hundred miles for gas, this could be a key factor for you. Additionally, Factory Five Racing supports modern Chevrolet LS engine configurations if that’s something you prefer. Keep in mind that your engine and transmission choice will determine a few of the kit parts that will ship with the kit, such as the drive shaft and motor mounts. If you are still undecided on the engine at the time you place your order, that’s okay! You can make changes to the order all the way up until it is preparing to ship. At that time, Factory Five Racing will review the order with you and update it based on your final choices.
Edit: This is an awesome video produced by Factory Five Racing that may help refine your decision.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=fpjwKZEgzj8
The next major choice you need to make is which rear suspension option you plan to use. Factory Five Racing offers three choices: four-link, three-link, and independent rear suspension (IRS). Each has its own unique driving characteristics and purposes. I’m not an expert in the specific differences but will offer a basic description to help guide you. The four-link was used in early Mustangs and is still the preferred rear end configuration for drag racing but will give the harshest ride quality for street use. The three-link is considered an upgrade over the four-link for street cars and offers a less-harsh ride but can still be jarring on rough roads. The IRS option will provide the softest ride but will benefit from anti-sway bars if a stiffer (less roll) feel is needed for racing or spirited driving. The standard chassis will accommodate either the three-link or four-link options, but the IRS chassis is specific to that configuration. At the time I was making this decision, the cost difference between the IRS and solid axle options was pretty significant and drove me to the three-link. If I were doing it today, there is absolutely no doubt that I’d go with the IRS option as the cost difference is pretty negligible given the availability of IRS parts. One additional piece of advice I’ll offer regarding the three-link option is that ordering the axle from Factory Five Racing will ensure you get a larger diameter axle tube, and the proper three-link bracketry (banana bracket) will come welded to the axle from Moser Engineering. The bolt-on parts are also available from Factory Five Racing but can be prone to slipping on the axel tube. There are some very nice bracing options available to help prevent this. Once you decide on the rearend, you can now proceed with ordering your kit with confidence.
Okay, now you’ve pulled the trigger and your kit is ordered! What’s next? This is the time you’ll want to start preparing your garage for the build. In the build manual, you’ll find basic wood working plans to build a buck to store the body on during the build. You may also be lucky to find one that is already built near you that another builder is ready to get rid of. Although a buck is great for holding the body, it takes up space. If you don’t have the room, it is perfectly fine to store the body outdoors, which is what Factory Five Racing does (or at least did). Others have rigged simple hoists that allow them to store the body overhead. The more room you can make available for the build, the better but it is very doable to build one of these in a single stall garage space. Another useful tool that you can build is a chassis dolly that allows you some mobility of the chassis during the early part of the build. There are some great designs that builders have shared that you can find posted throughout TheFactoryFiveForum.com, but anything that supports the chassis while giving you room to work on the front and rear suspension will do the trick. Once you get to the rolling chassis stage, you will want to get the car on the ground before it gets too heavy to do so later in the build. I actually bought a set of car dollies to retain the ease of movement of the chassis once it was a roller.
You may also want to think about what tools you have and what additional tools would help you do the build. I’m a huge proponent of the “right tool for the job” mentality and will buy tools that make the job easier or more professionally finished. As mentioned earlier, each section of the build manual identifies the tools recommended for completing that part of the build. Now comes the hardest part of the entire project, waiting for delivery day!
On delivery day, you are either picking up the kit or it is being delivered to your home. I’ll only speak to the delivery approach since this is where my experience is. I elected to have Stewart Transportation deliver my kit. Stewart Transportation is the preferred delivery service for a reason. They are completely equipped to deliver these kits from both a knowledge and equipment perspective. Their trucks have crane setups that allow for unloading the chassis and body to a cart that they have or to a chassis dolly that you provide. The drivers do this every day and are very comfortable with the process. If you don’t have a chassis dolly, be sure to have four jack stands available to set the chassis on when it is delivered.
The big truck pulls away leaving you with a giant pile of boxes and a sleek shell of your future Cobra replica sitting in your garage. The next step is very important, and one that will haunt you months later if you don’t take the time to do it correctly, inventory! Regardless of how your kit was delivered, you will be in possession of a stack of papers that represent the totality of the parts waiting in the boxes and any parts that were not shipped with your kit that Factory Five racing will deliver to you at no additional cost as soon as they are in stock. This list is called the POL (Parts Order List). This can often represent the most frustrating aspect of the build experience, but it is a product of many factors that are out of control of Factory Five Racing, so be prepared for this and don’t let it sour your experience. Also understand that delays have been significantly increased with the continuing impacts to the supply chain that we are still reeling from due to the global pandemic. Although the manual has a logical flow to the build sequence, there are many areas that can be done out of sequence and may offer you the ability to work on the build in spite of missing parts. Back to the inventory. Again, I can’t stress enough how important it is to do a complete and accurate inventory before you do anything else on the build. You’ll have a stack of papers that break down the contents of each box that was provided with your kit. The boxes are all numbered to correspond with the number of the box on the inventory sheets. If you’re like me, you’ll come across parts that you don’t readily recognize. A few tips that will help are to look at the quantity and the size (nuts/bolts) of the parts on your sheet. What worked for me was to open a box (one box at a time) and take all the parts out of the box and lay them out on the floor, grouping the parts by size when applicable. Also, the inventory will include part numbers for bags of parts. Identify the bag part number before opening it and keep those parts together as you go through the inventory. Once you have all the parts laid out, start working down your list. As you identify the parts on the list, check them off and place them back into the box they came out of. If you can’t identify a particular part, move on to the next and then use process of elimination to help identify the parts you couldn’t identify. Again, refer to the quantities and measurements. I used tape a measure and a thread gauge to help me with the inventory and you may also use the assembly manual to help identify “mystery” parts as you go. I also recommend opening the hardware bags and using the same process for the contents of each bag. I then placed the open bags into Zip-Lock bags to keep the parts from getting separated after placing them back in the boxes. During the inventory, be sure to identify any errors, missing parts, wrong parts (two left parts instead of a left and a right), or extra parts that you encounter. I had a small number of missing parts and was sent two extra clutch cables instead of two e-brake cables. A quick call to Factory Five Racing resolved all of my inventory discrepancies.
The inventory is complete and you’re ready to get started! First step is to remove the body. This will be a lot easier with a couple of helpers. Start by removing the hood, trunk and doors and setting those aside. Be sure you remove all the screws and bolts that are holding the body on the chassis. This includes the very small screws at the front turn signal location. The body is very flexible, but I made a simple brace from a 2x4 with a couple of notches cut in the ends to place between the front and rear cowl to keep the body from flexing too much. If you haven’t seen the video of the body removal that Factory Five Racing has on YouTube, you should watch it before proceeding. Along with this video, are a series of videos produced by Factory Five Racing that are definitely worth watching before starting your build. For your convenience, I’ve created a playlist of these videos on my YouTube channel that you can access here.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLuOBX_HJpgA6ZaLl3yy3Cx6rggIGWzxM1
The body is off, and now you need to remove all the aluminum panels to get down to the bare chassis. If you’re like me, you are thinking that you’ll never remember where all these panels go down the road. It will be surprisingly obvious to you later, but thankfully, Factory Five Racing provides you with a figure in the assembly manual of where every part goes and a number for each part. I used a strip of blue painter’s tape to write the part number on and stuck it to each panel. I also kept tack of the orientation of the panels relative to the ones they overlapped to ensure each panel would go back in the proper position. This will be more obvious to you as you look at the panels and start to remove them. Keep track of the order you remove them and just reverse the process as you start to put them back on later with some exceptions, for example, don’t rivet the rear cockpit panel in before the trunk floor is riveted into place or accessing the trunk floor rivet locations along the rear cockpit wall will be a challenge. This brings me to a key point that I want to make that will serve you well throughout the build. As you work on one aspect of the kit, also look through the next several steps to see how one step affects those down the road. Always consider how you will remove parts that may need to be replaced later as you continue to add parts to the car. This will help you decide if you want to bolt a part on or rivet a part on, which is a frequently discussed topic in the forums. My rule of thumb was to bolt on any parts that rivets would not be appropriate for or that bolts and nut-certs (a.k.a. rivunts) would be more aesthetically appealing. It’s really a personal choice, but keep in mind that drilling out four or five rivets is likely a lot faster than removing four of five bolts.
Now is the time to finish the aluminum panels to your preference. This tends to be another area that draws a lot of questions in the forums and is again, mostly a personal choice. There are some key aspects to conder when deciding how to finish your aluminum. Cost, appearance, durability are the ones that immediately come to mind. Let’s look at a couple of options and discuss the factors for each. One option is to just go with bare aluminum. This certainly is the most affordable option but should include some thought. First, bare aluminum panels come with ink marking from the manufacturing process that can detract from the appearance if not properly removed. The ink can be quickly removed with lacquer thinner but will leave behind a ghost image of the markings. One common way to remove these markings is to use a little WD-40 and some fine sandpaper or a Scotchbrite pad to add a brushed look to the aluminum. This is a great look in my opinion and very appropriate for these cars. The aluminum will oxidize over time, but the bright finish can be maintained with a product called Sharkhide, which was created to maintain the aluminum pontoons on pontoon boats. Another popular option is to have the panels powder coated. The cost to coat all the panels will vary widely depending on where you are and can range from a few hundred dollars to well over a thousand dollars. Some may consider trying to finish just the visible side of certain panels, but most powder coaters would rather just coat the entire panel due to the time factor vs. material cost. It’s also more cost effective to get all your powder coating done in one large job rather than in several small batches. Most coaters charge a setup or minimum fee that can add up. Powder coating is pretty durable and looks great but can be difficult to touch up down the road if you scratch a panel. A very cost-effective approach is to paint the panels with paint or other products like bed-liner. I chose the bed-liner approach for my build and would not go this route if I were building another car. I’d likely just go with bare aluminum for my next build.
Now on to the mechanical aspect of the build. This is where things start to come together and where closely following the assembly manual will save you a lot of heartache with little details that often get missed by builders that don’t take time to review the manual. During this stage of the project, it becomes even more important that you consider not just the step you are on, but several that will follow. Placement of brake and fuel lines, routing of electrical harnesses, and other such items may be dictated by your choices in the drivetrain or many of the available after-market options you may be incorporating in your overall build plan. For example, a popular modification is to do a drop trunk to provide more room in the very small trunks these cars have. It certainly makes more sense to think that part of the build through while considering the mounting location for the battery, access to the fuel pump and sending unit for the fuel gauge and how the area will be finished at the end of your build. Another example is the popular turn signal lever system that is produced by Russ Thompson. This can be retrofitted on a finished car but would be so much easier to do when the car doesn’t have an installed dash. In addition to thinking ahead, paying attention to details as you work through various parts of the build could save you from potential disaster later. It isn’t uncommon to assemble parts without fully tightening bolts as you get assemblies put together. I took the advice of those that had a lot more experience than me and ensured that I assembled parts with the bolt though the top of the assembly where possible. This helps keep assemblies from coming apart immediately if a nut works itself loose by allowing the bolt to remain in the assembly with the help of gravity. Another recommendation, particularly with suspension assemblies, is to apply witness marks after torquing bolts. I used a simple paint pen to do this. This serves two purposes. First, it allows you to see what has been torqued and second, it allows you to see if those bolts are loosening up from that original torqued position down the road.
Another key area to think about during both your planning and build are the many sources of parts that are designed to step up the usability and quality of the cars we build. There is a thriving cottage industry surrounding Factory Five Racing that offers all manner of parts. The supporting vendors are identified on the forum, and financially support TheFactoryFiveForum.com and help keep the site up and running. Please consider them for all your aftermarket parts needs. Additionally, there are plenty of other sources of Cobra parts available, just be sure the parts you are buying work with your Factory Five Racing Cobra replica as not all replicas are created equal, and many parts are not interchangeable.
One area of the build that is most feared is the electrical wiring. Thankfully, the complete kit comes with a very nice wiring harness and detailed instructions. Despite the detailed instructions, this isn’t a place to guess. If you have questions, get answers before continuing. Take the time to review and understand the wiring diagram that comes with the harness. This can be a daunting feat for someone that has no experience with automotive electrical. The wiring diagram is color matched to the harness, and the individual wires in the harness are all marked with what the wire is identified for in the diagram. If you take the time to learn to read the diagram and follow the individual wires from origin to the item they power/control, you’ll be very capable of wiring these cars. Every light, motor, etc. that is wired in a car must have a voltage supply and a ground wire to complete a “circuit”. If either are missing, the item won’t work. We use switches to control circuits. A switch can either interrupt power or ground to a light/motor/etc. to open or close the circuit. Relays are just fancy switches that are used for high-current items like fuel pumps and cooling fans that would otherwise require very large wires and heavy-duty switches to control them. Switches can be confusing with terms like throw and poles. Simply stated, poles refer to the number of items a switch can control simultaneously and throw refers to the number of functional positions the switch has. For example, a simple on-off switch that controls a light would typically use a single pole, single throw switch. If I want to control two separate items based on the position of a switch, like left and right turn signals, I may use a single pole, double throw switch. I turn on one circuit (left) in one switch position, and a different circuit (right) in the other position of the switch. To extend this example, to operate both left and right turn signals (hazard light function), I can use a double pole, single throw switch. This turns on two separate circuits (left and right) in the on position. There are some additional details where this last example may use a double pole, double throw switch simply to provide isolation of the circuits being powered and prevent feedback through the switch. That’s probably more detail than you need at this point. As described earlier, relays are just fancy switches that are designed to power high-current items. A relay has a power and ground, just like other electrical items on the car, but also has a trigger connection that acts like a light switch to activate the internals of the relay to close the relay power circuit. Once closed, the relay has one or more outputs to provide power to the item being controlled. Some relays have outputs that provide power to different items depending on if the relay is triggered on or off. An example of this type of circuit would be to power your headlights through a relay and switch the relay to select between low beams and high beams. The relay is un-powered until the headlight switch is turned on, then depending on the position of the trigger switch (headlight dimmer), either the high beams or low beams are powered. The advantage to this approach is that if the relay fails, it will fail in a way that you still have low beams. There are many more complicated topics related to automotive electrical, but they will be left to those that want to get fancy. The items discussed here are really all that are required to understand how to completely wire one of these cars the way the kit intends.
Now we’ve got the chassis built, wired, and plumbed, it’s time to install the engine. The recommended approach for these cars is to raise the rear of the car up 9-12 inches in the air and using a standard engine hoist with a leveler, angle the engine and transmission in from the front adjusting the leveler and slowly lowering the engine until it is sitting on the mounts. This was one of the areas that I was most intimidated by during my build, and it ended up being one of the easiest to do.
Once the engine is sitting in place, the next stage of the build is completing the fuel, electrical, and cooling connections that are required to start the car for the first time. Now is a good time to have a simple checklist to ensure you don’t forget to put oil in the car or transmission fluid in the tranny. Also be sure to follow your engine builders’ instructions for priming the oiling system or any other specific items before starting the car. When you do start the car for the first time, be sure to immediately look for oil pressure and once you are sure that is good, start looking for any fuel or other fluid leaks. I did my first start with the car on stands and was able to put the car in gear and check that everything rotated in forward and reverse, and that the brakes felt firm prior to driving the car for the first time.
The first drive, go-kart, is one of the most exciting times a builder will experience. Prior to taking the car on the road the first time, double check all suspension components are properly torqued, you have no leaks, the brakes stop the car in the driveway/garage, and you have a safe, quiet place to test the car. Most won’t have seats, seatbelts, lights, etc. on the car at this point, so don’t venture too far from your garage or drive too fast. You’ll have time for that later.
Wow! Now you have a car that drives that you built with your own hands. Let’s get this thing done. Getting the body back on the car is often something that is done more than once during the build. It’s easy enough to do, so don’t be deterred by taking it off again once it’s on if that makes working on something simpler. Positioning the body is critical for the best fit of all your final assembly steps, so take your time here. If you are doing your own bodywork, get it perfect! If you are outsourcing your bodywork, do the absolute minimum needed to allow your body shop to fine tune it, they’ll thank you later. Likewise, if you are applying any sort of undercoating to the body, keep it a few inches away from the openings that will require fine tuning later as well as the wheel arches that will need to be trimmed and are often finished with a rolled edge that makes the final product a lot nicer. Whether you’re doing the bodywork and paint yourself or sending it out, completely assemble the car before starting the work. This includes installing the windshield, lights, side pipes, etc.. Don’t cut the hood opening until the body is in its final position and the stripe’s center position is located. These cars are not at all symmetrical, so basing the scoop on anything you measure before the car is ready will not end well and create a lot of repair work to get the opening in the proper location. Again, if outsourcing the bodywork, you may be asked to leave the hood scoop in the box and let your body guy cut the opening. If they’ve done more than one of these cars, they will likely prefer that.
The car is painted, and you’ve put all the finishing touches on it. Now follow your particular location’s process to title and register the car and start enjoying it! These cars are best enjoyed on the road, not in the garage with a polishing towel.
cc2Arider
10-30-2022, 06:37 PM
Thanks Papa for the reference post and motivation :)
Craig C
Alan_C
10-30-2022, 07:24 PM
FF should put you on their advertising payroll. I think your assessment of the entire build process will push a lot of fence sitters to take the plunge.
rthomas98
10-30-2022, 09:15 PM
I love this. Dr. Spock for Kit Car builders. Thank you Dave.
maclonchas
10-31-2022, 06:21 AM
Papa,
What a great summary of the decisions and thought process going into and during the build. I am still in between steps 4 and 5 of your 16 step plan as my build will not be ready until May 2023. One item I would add to your list is not only reading the forum, but setting up folders (on the computer) for each section of the build and adding notes, websites for parts, tips and tricks form other builders, and build threads that cover each area. This method will save you some time when you start the build and can refer to that section quickly to review prior to starting work on that topic and not have to search for that information (but cannot remember where you saw it :) ).
Alan_C
10-31-2022, 10:45 AM
On another non-FFR build I made a Excel spreadsheet just for this reason. I broke it into sections and I put web links in one column and subject matter in another. When researching parts this helped me find items I had looked at. After buying, it provides a record of what I purchased. I refer to it all the time as I just go back and forth between working on different aspects of the car. Rather than using a folder approach, the single spreadsheet puts everything in one file that can be easily searched using the "Find" function. Just another way to skin the same cat.
danmas
10-31-2022, 10:54 AM
Regarding the inventory portion of this... Does Factory Five send you a soft copy (Excel spreadsheet?) or is it purely paper? That seems really old school. I assume the BOM can be sent soft copy. Has anyone put it in a spreadsheet if they don't? Would be great just to use my ipad to do my inventory and then send the missing parts to factory five without having to do a lot of hand jamming...
Regarding the inventory portion of this... Does Factory Five send you a soft copy (Excel spreadsheet?) or is it purely paper? That seems really old school. I assume the BOM can be sent soft copy. Has anyone put it in a spreadsheet if they don't? Would be great just to use my ipad to do my inventory and then send the missing parts to factory five without having to do a lot of hand jamming...
They just switched to a new system, so I'm not sure what they can do with it. My inventory was all hard-copy.
Mike.Bray
10-31-2022, 12:57 PM
On another non-FFR build I made a Excel spreadsheet just for this reason. I broke into sections and I put web links in one column and subject matter in another. When researching parts this helped me find items I had looked at. After buying, it provides a record of what I purchased. I refer to it all the time as I just back and forth between working on different aspects of the car. Rather than using a folder approach, the single spreadsheet puts everything in one file that can be easily searched using the "Find" function. Just another way to skin the same cat.
As an engineer I love spreadsheets so I did the same thing. Mine has tabs for the FFR kit (including POL), engine, drivetrain, engine test stand, and misc. I've got columns for P/N, Brand, Supplier, Description, Qty, and cost. If it's ordered I highlight it in yellow and if it has been delivered I mark it in Green so I've got a quick reference.
Actually I have two spreadsheets, one with the actual prices and another with adjusted prices that I can show my wife lol
mmklaxer
10-31-2022, 04:57 PM
Regarding the inventory portion of this... Does Factory Five send you a soft copy (Excel spreadsheet?) or is it purely paper? That seems really old school. I assume the BOM can be sent soft copy. Has anyone put it in a spreadsheet if they don't? Would be great just to use my ipad to do my inventory and then send the missing parts to factory five without having to do a lot of hand jamming...
With a couple inventory glitches, I asked this question of FF. Interestingly enough, they don't have a BOM for each kit, as they are all different. I found the comment to be odd, as having a set BOM for each assembly would greatly simplify the long term management of inventory, BOM changes, etc. Shouldn't be too hard to tie option selections to deletions from the base BOM configuration. I suspect they are heading that way, but it's a lot of work to convert everything into a teamcenter or equivalent networking structure that ties material together.
Alan_C
10-31-2022, 05:05 PM
Ah Teamcenter, a nightmare from a previous life at Boeing. So glad I am retired.
Real Time
10-31-2022, 06:08 PM
Can't help but post a big thank you for your efforts in helping those that follow you.
I've read your build thread back in the spring. It has been inspiring and I enjoyed it thoroughly as my car was a long way off.
My build date is January so I'll be completing my order sometime in December.
George
flyboyjy
11-01-2022, 04:04 PM
I would be assuming I got the newest inventory list and my car was delivered on 10-21-22. It was several sheets of paper with the body and frame and all the hardware holding it all together listed out. Then about 51 sheets of inventory items. Each box is numbered and there should be a corresponding list on the pages of what is in each box. The confusing part is they actually have the box and what size it is listed as part of the inventory. Hopefully everything that is listed on the sheet for that box is actually in it. I had a few items that were checked off as being packed that were no where to be found. I sent that list into FFR but have not heard anything back.
It helps to go thru build pages here to know what parts look like. Inventory took me about 9 hours to complete.