Kit shipping soon - Still a few questions, please.

[Ryans Rebel]

Well, my kit is scheduled to ship out in about a month and a half and I have yet to settle on a few things. I’ve looked through this forum nearly every night for the last 6 months (I’ve been lurking over the last few years) in order to get a better understanding of how the car goes together. I’m not talking about the wrench turning, I’m talking about all the little components that might be required to assemble something, best way to mount whatever, and what key aftermarket components are a must have. End result is I am as confused as ever, but still very confident in my ability to build this car. So, I’ve decided to just go ahead and get what I get form FFR and do my research throughout the build as needed. However, I would like a couple of key questions answered so I can settle my order with FFR before the kit ships.

This car will be used for typical good weather street driving, not track use.

Here is what I’ve on order (or plan to add to the list):
Complete Mk4 Kit
Powder coat frame
302 Headers
Hyd clutch master cylinder kit
Body Cut outs
Black leather seat upgrade
Power steering kit (might be able to remove this? See engine below)
Center Dash Support (in anticipation of these rough Louisiana Roads)
Mosier rear end, 3-link, standard width
Front sway bar
EFI In-tank system
Leather steering wheel
Trunk gas strut kit

I do plan on having hydraulic clutch, power steering and power brakes. Not sure what that all entails honestly, but that is the plan at the moment.

I’m attempting to keep things simple… No wipers, no heater (Louisiana :)), no A/C (Louisiana :() and not too may accessories. Speaking of accessories, is it better to get accessories like floor mats, sun visors, wind wings, etc during the build? Or is it best just to get all that stuff now from FFR with the kit?

Engine & Transmission:
I have on order a BluePrint 347 EFI with manual transmission with 100A alternator & PS option. My only two questions regarding the engine/transmission are #1 would I want the special order 0.68:1 fifth gear ratio? And #2 can BluePrint supply with a mid-shift kit installed, or is that something I would have to do at a later date during the build?

Tires, wheels, rear end, & brakes:
I don’t think I will purchase tires or wheels from FFR at this time as I am unsure exactly what wheels, tire width, back spacing I want. I would like to use 15” wheels……..I think, but my research into available 15” wheels appear limited. It looks like 17” wheels are far more common. I have on order with FFR the Mosier 3-link rear end set-up. I see FFR offers a 5” narrower version for the same price. Why is that? Is that narrower rear end available for running wider tire options? If I do end up settling on 15” wheels (or 17” for that matter), is there any reason I should not use the standard OEM FFR brake kit? Should I hold off on ordering the rear brake kit (and perhaps the fronts) from FFR until I settle on the wheels? Being only a street car, I think I'm quite happy to use the standard (power) brakes.

Lastly, I’m planning on having my side pipes ceramic coated black at some point. If so, can I go with the standard FFR bare (not polished option) side exhaust and them have them coated? I’ve actually got an email into Gas-N to see if they have an option to supply side pipes already ceramic coated black.

Any additional input based on what I have listed above is greatly appreciated.

Can’t wait to get started!

Ryan

[wallace18]

FFR does not offer Power Brakes. You would need to get the power brakes from a vendor like Whitby. The standard FFR front brakes work fine with power brake booster. You do need to buy rear brakes. The (16285) 11.65" rear disc option has worked well for me on several builds. I can't answer the 2 blueprint questions. The TKX trans works fine as it comes, IMO.

[Wayne r mckee]

Blueprint did the mid shift conversion for me a couple years ago on my TKO , I’m sure they would still offer it on the TKX

[RFracer]

The narrow axle offered is for pin drive wheels. They are what were used in the early days. Center tri wing spinners/ knock offs. They make 15” & 17” wheels in traditional Cobra styles. They are pricey compared to the typical Mustang style offerings.

[Lidodrip]

Blueprint did the mid shift conversion for me a couple years ago on my TKO , I’m sure they would still offer it on the TKX

I don't believe Tremec has their mid/front shift kit for the TKX out on the market yet. When I contacted them over a year ago, they told me it was under development and would ship in a few weeks - that was September 2021. I am only aware of two companies that currently offer a midshift kit - Silver Sport Transmissions and Race Tuning. Speedway initially offered a kit, very similar to the Race Tuning kit, but stopped selling it. Modern Driveline also advertised a kit this spring, but that is no longer listed on their site. I installed the Silver Sport Transmission kit and have been very happy with it. I have only used it for go-cart, but pleased none the less. Below is a link to the thread that includes my installation of the SST kit. Not sure how Blueprint would feel about installing the SST kit, but it would be easy to do the conversion yourself, particularly before the engine is installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42359-Tremec-TKX-Midshift-Option-STX-Shifter-Installed

James

[Jim1855]

Ryans Rebel,

Lots of good questions, shows that you're thinking about it.

Not sure why BluePrint has the .68 OD as a "special", both OD ratios are offered by Tremec. I prefer the .6x but also use OD for highway driving. I think a lot depends on what you're after. There are many gearing calculators that will show the rpm/mph in each gear. You'll need engine RPM range, tire size and rear ratio to complete the calculations. Having a rough estimate of the torque/hp curve helps.

Might want to consider Mike Forte for your transmission & driveline needs. He'll have all of the options and will help guide you through the selections.

Then tires. I really like the look of the 15s but run 17s or possibly 18s as there are better and more options. One piece of advice is to not buy tires until you're about ready to start driving. Tires age, many owners age out tires well before they wear them out. No sense having tires that are multiple years old when you start driving.

Jim

[hineas]

Here are my $0.02. Ignore any typos, I'm on my phone.

I am a huge proponent of the 0.68 5th gear for highway driving. Granted, I live in an area where I have 80 mph speed limits, so it is a bigger deal for me. At 80 mph the 0.81 gives an RPM of 3000. We have the 0.64 (close enough to the 0.68) and our rpm at 80 is 2500 which is much nicer.

If you have the 0.81:1 fifth gear and 3.55 rear end, at 65 mph your rpms would be 2450. With the 0.68, your rpms would be 2050. Much nicer for cruising in my opinion.

Here is an rpm calculator I made for my build. Feel free to edit the spread sheet, I have the originated saved elsewhere.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uAEJZBHfPHrFAgwpApmMPO-Iuxg1ypuEuLdD12qY7rM/edit?usp=drivesdk

I have the TKO with the 0.64 fifth gear. I can go up mountain roads at 65 mph and don't have to shift to go uphill. I have the 347 from BluePrint as well.

Also, the 0.68 fifth gear will get better gas milage.

Like I said, I'm a huge proponent of the 0.68 if you are building a car for the street.

Let's move on to the power steering. The BluePrint engine comes with the power steering pump/reservoir and nothing else. The power steering from FFR is the steering rack, hoses, etc. but doesn't have the pump. You need both options.

You mentioned power brakes. We have the standard brakes and no power brakes. In my opinion they feel perfect and aren't too heavy. I do recommend the hydraulic clutch, and to me the non power brakes and the hydraulic clutch feel right together. However, this is a personal preference and people like their boosted brakes as well.

My opinion on the brakes is that for street use the standard brakeses are fine. Essentially, you are putting brakes from a mustang that is twice the weight than what you are building. However, if you are racing, doing auto cross, etc., bigger brakes are nice to help prevent brake fade with repeated heavy breaking. I have the standard brakes and they have amazing stopping power.

As for floor mats, if you want FFR mats then get them with the car. If you want cobra branding, get them from a 3rd party.

For the wind wings and sun visor, it really doesn't matter if you get them now or later.

The wheel question has been answered. Get the normal width rear end if you plan on having typical wheels (ie 5 lug wheel).

I can't comment on the ceramic coating since I haven't done it.

[Papa]

My only added input is related to your buy it now or get it later from FFR question. You'll save money getting all your FFR items with the kit. Their shipping rates are pretty ridiculous in my opinion. I ordered a baseball cap and paid almost as much in shipping as the cost of the cap. If you start buying several items piecemeal, you'll spend quite a bit on shipping.

[Ryans Rebel]

Thanks for all the replies! This feedback clears up the mud a great deal. Now I can finalize my selections with FFR. Awesome!

[Mike.Bray]

You might want to do some research into the front sway bar. I have a SBF and 3 link rear end like you're planning and was going to install a front sway bar from Breeze. Mark called me and talked me out of it as according to him it will make the handling worse and not better. These cars are pretty much balanced weight wise, close to 51/49 front to rear I believe, so tightening up one end is not a good thing.

[JohnK]

If you're thinking of going with Gas-N pipes, you can have FFR delete the side pipes from your order and save that money. Not sure if Gas-N provides pipes already ceramic coated but I ordered my Gas-N pipes bare and then sent them to Jet-Hot (along with the headers and side pipe heat shields) to have them all ceramic coated black.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You might want to do some research into the front sway bar. I have a SBF and 3 link rear end like you're planning and was going to install a front sway bar from Breeze. Mark called me and talked me out of it as according to him it will make the handling worse and not better. These cars are pretty much balanced weight wise, close to 51/49 front to rear I believe, so tightening up one end is not a good thing.

Correct! All too often builders want to throw “improvments” at their cars, such as bump steer kits or sway bars, before they even know or understand what they have and in the end make them worse rather than better. The Factory Five standard spring rates introduce a moderate understeer—-if you make the front stiffer either via a bar or higher spring rates without making a corresponding change to the rear the car will push even worse changing that moderate understeer into a massive understeer.

Jeff

[Ryans Rebel]

I think I will get a credit on the FFR pipes and go the GasN route. GasN does offer ceramic coating option.

Good info on the front sway bar. I’ll scratch that from the list. I guess that is a popular option for the IRS crowd where they can run sway bars front and rear.

[Scott L]

Hi Ryan - Good plan, I wish i had done power steering. I second the recommendation to talk to Forte about the drive train. I have been very happy with my engine and transmission from Mike. There is a good rear sway bar if you are interested - not necessary but available. I am happy with mine paired with a Forte front bar.

http://www.vintageperformancemotorcars.com/

[CaptB]

Mike Forte has coyote engines waiting to ship.

He just dyno'd my 427 and it should ship this week.

He is cheaper than BPE (which is also very good but a long lead time) and I bought my Moser race axle from him. He has my highest recommendation.

[Jeff_J.]

Ryan, I deleted the FF side pipes as well - the credit is small but it all adds up - keep in mind when you delete the side pipes you don't get the pipe hangars, at least I didn't, we'll have to purchase those separate I guess. Also - I went the direction of the Standard 11.65 IRS brakes and purchased a hydroboost unit for power brakes. I had a real problem getting the ebrake cable into the caliper and impossible to route the cable per FFR instructions. Keep in mind I have the MK4 IRS and 11.65" brakes, the comment from FFR was the 11.65" brake option was "not optimal for this setup" wish I knew that sooner... Maybe I should have ordered the 13" FFR rear brakes - different setup - I still may have too. Not saying you should change any of your choices - just saying what issues I ran across just recently.

[Mike.Bray]

Mike Forte has coyote engines waiting to ship.

He just dyno'd my 427 and it should ship this week.

He is cheaper than BPE (which is also very good but a long lead time) and I bought my Moser race axle from him. He has my highest recommendation.

I bought my Moser rear end from Mike also. I like the Wilwood brake setup he uses with the little drum brake for an E-brake. If you send him your 3 link bracket he will weld it on for you.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/rearbrakes.jpg

[Ryans Rebel]

I guess I need to give Mike Forte a ring. Thanks again guys!

[Avalanche325]

I have VPM front and rear sway bars on a 3-link. They make the car handle noticeably better and MUCH flatter during autocross and track. On the street, you may not need them. They take a little bit of tuning. You definitely don't need just a front bar. I didn't put them on until at least a year of autocross.

The car is heavier in the rear, not the front.

[MB750]

I don't have anything constructive to add to this thread, other than say that our kits will probably be on the truck together (assuming you're going with Stewart). Mine's supposed to be done 11/26 and it's shipping to the gulf coast of FL.

Good luck with your build.

[BR Ernie]

Ryans Rebels,
I am expecting mine about the same and I am in LA also, what city? We may have to get together and plot the strategies. PM me.

[Ryans Rebel]

Ryans Rebels,
I am expecting mine about the same and I am in LA also, what city? We may have to get together and plot the strategies. PM me.

PM sent