Well it's about that time. I'm ready. Jason's MK IV

[flyboyjy]

Hi everyone. My Mark IV Roadster was loaded with Stewart Transport yesterday and should be on the road Saturday. SO I can expect delivery towards the end of next week. So I decided to go ahead and start the build thread.

The order:

Mark IV Roadster complete kit with IRS and body cut outs traced. Bare frame and power steering. Standard seats and Auto Meter Lite gauges. Heater and wipers. Wilwood brakes and the Koni double adjustable shocks.

The engine is a Ford 351 Windsor with a .040 over bore making it a 358. About 10.5 to 1 compression with a roller cam. Built it a few years ago and mounted it on a break in stand, was trying to teach my young sons things about car engines at the time. The transmission is a TKX with the .68 fifth gear. Centerforce Dual Friction clutch and a Quicktime bell housing.

I have already hit all the aftermarket vendors. Soft top is here, Boig Cool tubes are here, drop trunk from Russ Thompson is here and I will send the steering column out for the turn signal mod.

Forward firewall and transmission tunnel top from FFMetal. The rear glove box, door sill plates and exhaust hangers from Dark Water Customs.

Mirrors, radiator brackets, battery tray, fan shroud from Breeze are all here.

I am sure I am forgetting parts, but ALL the vendors I chose to do business with are great to deal with.

I have been amassing parts for the engine, wheels, seats and such for years.

So about me. I started this journey in the late 90s. I wanted a Midstates, Bob Kalio was a class act but then he sold out to Shell Valley and that ended that idea. Then Hurricane Motorsports came out and made a real decent car, then they went out and came back. Factory Five was a second choice to Hurricane for a long time. What made the change is the refinements and changes made by Factory Five showed they cared and wanted a better car. Finally the frame was the deciding factor. People drive terrible. I think a collision in a car with Factory Fives frame would be more survivable than with Hurricanes frame.

I am a retired commercial pilot hence the username "flyboyjy". I got tired of the economy getting me every time there was a downturn, competing with 5000 or 6000 pilots for the same job isn't fun. But long ago I thought to have a back up plan and that turned out to be as a diesel mechanic, and yes I actually do have college degrees as both. So I retired from flying in 2010 and started working on trucks and equipment. Turns out I had a hidden talent for running crews and entire shops. Ended up where I am today as the Field Service Manager for an extremely busy heavy equipment repair company. I send my crews out and sometimes run the entire company when the owner decides to take time off.

Anyway the car will be built in a 3 car garage in Colorado, I live somewhere between Papa and GTBradley.

I will do my best to post pictures and keep this updated. I thought about putting it on YouTube but I know I don't have the time for editing.

Talk with you all later.

Jason

[GTBradley]

Hey, Jason. Congratulations on getting your dream started. If you want a cheering section when the kit arrives, let me know, I'll drive over in the roadster.

By the way, move your build thread over to Build Threads (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/forumdisplay.php?103-Roadster-Build-Threads) page, people look there when they want to see what you are doing.

[flyboyjy]

I don't see where to move it. I asked David Hodgkins if he can move it.

[GTBradley]

You could just copy and paste your text into a new thread on the other section. I put a link in the first post.

[David Hodgkins]

Jason I moved the thread for you. Congratulations on your new build! There are a few threads in the welcome/intros section of the site that will show you how to use the picture gallery and how to change the title of your thread. Let me know if you need any help at all with either of those issues.

:)

[460.465USMC]

Congrats on your kit arriving soon, Jason! You bring a great perspective and skillsets to your build. Lots of nice add-ons already in-hand or queued up. Looking forward to seeing pictures of your kit arrival day, and getting your build underway.

Welcome aboard!

[Countrymile]

Looking forward to following your build, Jason. My build date is less than a month away now so I will be right behind you. Good Luck!

Daren

[flyboyjy]

It has been a marathon weekend building a body buck and chassis cart. Nowhere near the build quality of what Sam Sturdy built, which is a high mark to match. But mine will serve its purpose. I will try and post pictures and engine build pictures later this week.

[flyboyjy]

So about 3 years ago my boys asked why I had a bare engine block in the garage. So I explained to them what it was intended for and that it had been around long before they were born. So I thought it would be fun to go ahead and build it up, maybe they would learn something. So we built it and put it on an engine break in stand I built about 20 years ago. Made some up grades along the way, decided the the Ford ZR2 heads had real nice flow numbers and had the velocity vane right in front of the intake valve. Had all the rotating assembly balanced and we built it. Put it on the stand with a new carburetor and ran it. It runs real nice and strong, very smooth. There are no engine dynos that I can find in the area to see what it puts out but Desktop Dynos puts it somewhere over 400 horse. Of course with the American flag on the Edelbrock manifold that adds what, at least 10 horsepower on top of that.:D 173868173869173870173871173872.

So in getting ready for the MK IV arrival we took it off the run stand, replaced the stock pan for a Kevko pan and pick up. Mounted the clutch after checking the runout on the Quicktime bellhousing. We put the power steering pump on and then wheeled it off to the corner on a storage stand.173874173875173876

More to come. (I'm learning how to embed photos so I apologize if it doesn't work right yet).

[flyboyjy]

David thanks I appreciate the help getting started here.

[flyboyjy]

Congrats on your kit arriving soon, Jason! You bring a great perspective and skillsets to your build. Lots of nice add-ons already in-hand or queued up. Looking forward to seeing pictures of your kit arrival day, and getting your build underway.

Welcome aboard!

Thanks Chris. I'm working on getting pictures put up as things happen. Normally everyone suggests add ons and happily help people spend their money, BUT I already did it to myself with no assistance.

[flyboyjy]

I had to almost completely disassemble the air hockey table that was sitting in the second bay and move it to the basement. The engine was already in its corner and the transmission moved off to the side. Blazer pulled forward and the snow blower parked behind it. The body buck was built on stilts so work could be done under it. The chassis cart was finally assembled and ready to go. Got an email from Fedex last week saying my packages would arrive, only trouble was I hadn't ordered anything. Apparently Wilwood got their stuff in and sent out. I hope everyone that was waiting for months got theirs too.
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[flyboyjy]

Last Thursday (10-20-22) I got a call from Jeff with Stewart transport and we made an appointment for an 8 AM delivery Friday. At 7:30 Friday morning I got another call from Jeff saying he was 27 miles away and would be on time for 8. And sure enough at 8 AM a truck pulled into the cul-de sac and we started to unload. Got the car off and put in the garage. Jeff then helped me get it off his cart and onto mine. GTBradley who is near me came by to say hi and helped with the unload. 174112174113174114174115174116174117

Jeff then expertly backed out of the cul-de-sac and headed out to deliver a Coupe and a Roadster. Was like Christmas in October. I set in and started inventory. I believe this is the new inventory system, if so I approve. Each box has a number on it and corresponding pages that lists what the contents are in the box. The person packing the box checks off each item in the box, if it is not there it gets 0 by it and is put on the POL. So all told I spent roughly 9 hours by myself going through each box, counting every item and matching it to the list. Very well organized and I only have about 5 or 6 things that were missing, mostly nuts a wire connector and piece of wire.
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Sunday I had my Dad and brother come out and help get the body off and put on the body buck. I had my boys help pull the sides out while my brother and I are at the ends, Dad was directing. It does just pop off and we easily lifted it up and put on the buck. Doors, trunk and hood got stored on the shelf and now I am ready to pull the aluminum off and get to work.
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Looking from underneath with the bright garage lights on above I only spotted one pin hole in passenger door frame that will need to be addressed. There is one spot on the rear drivers wheel well that something hit and gouged the gel coat before it gat delivered. Other wise the body itself looks to be in good shape.
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[Jim Frahm]

This is a well thought out setup. I'm looking forward to your progress. Enjoy the journey!

Jim

[Blitzboy54]

Welcome aboard! Enjoy the journey, your engine looks fantastic.

[flyboyjy]

This is a well thought out setup. I'm looking forward to your progress. Enjoy the journey!

Jim

Thanks Jim I will try and put progress reports up as things get going.

[flyboyjy]

Welcome aboard! Enjoy the journey, your engine looks fantastic.

Thanks. That engine is unhappy sitting there unused. I will well document putting it in.

[danmas]

Hey Flyboyjy,

I am north of you (close to Longmont) and have serious envy. My kit should arrive in May of 23. I look forward to following your build.

[flyboyjy]

Quick update. Spent all week getting the frame prepped. Cut off the brackets that will interfere with the Breeze upper radiator hinge. Every inch of frame got cleaned by industrial strength wipes, it was covered in dirt and grime. Checked every weld and removed the weld slag and spatter. Doesn't take much to clean that up. There was one weld on the passenger side door cross members that the weld did not get ground down. The outside weld did and both sides on the drivers side were ground down so I guess this one just got missed but I was pretty sure it would have affected the aluminum panel fit under the door so I ground it off. Next the entire frame got roughed up with scotchbrite pads and then cleaned with an Eastwood metal cleaner they call PRE. Finally after building a makeshift paint booth in the garage it was coated in a Eastwood self etching primer. After drying and checking it over the frame was then painted in the Eastwood 2K Ceramic Chassis Paint. It has a nice black color but the ceramic tended to leave it with a slight texture. I decided it was done and started to clean up the garage. Realized the next morning I had not taken any pictures so I took a few before putting it back on the cart.

The other thing that got done was to use an internal frame coating that has a 24 inch long flexible tube on the open frame pieces that could not be painted normally. Seemed to coat everything very well. Now onto aluminum F panels and more.174366174367

[460.465USMC]

Hi Flyboy. I'm not able to view the pictures in your last post. Do you have the album set to Private?

[flyboyjy]

Hi Flyboy. I'm not able to view the pictures in your last post. Do you have the album set to Private?

I didn’t think so. I will look into it I was on the way out to my last remaining Grandmas funeral when I posted it. If I can’t get them right I will repost them.

[flyboyjy]

OK I have no idea why the pictures didn't load the first time but they are there now.

[Papa]

Congrats! I'm not too far from you. If you ever need a hand, give me a shout.

Dave

[flyboyjy]

Hey Flyboyjy,

I am north of you (close to Longmont) and have serious envy. My kit should arrive in May of 23. I look forward to following your build.

The wait will be worth it. And before you know it the delivery truck will show up whether you are ready for it or not.

[flyboyjy]

Congrats! I'm not too far from you. If you ever need a hand, give me a shout.

Dave

Thanks Dave. I still reference your build page and if I need help I will let you know.

[flyboyjy]

SO after painting the frame I realized quickly that warm days were probably gone until spring and I wanted to paint the aluminum panels. Even though the garage is heated it is much better when it is warm out. Also I have most of the major parts to the car but still have POL items like hardware that will hold up attaching the parts. I had considered this possibility about the POL items a long time ago and simply shifted to painting what needed to get done while waiting. There is plenty to work around if you are missing parts.

First of all a quick warning about cleaners. I got this Tub of Towels at Home Depot months and months ago. I used it to clean the frame, it had lots of grime on it. Not to be unexpected from a manufacturing facility. However the Tub of Towels is the first thing I have ever encountered that actually softened up Nitrile rubber gloves. So use with caution if you use these.174920

After having used scotchbrite pads to rough all the surfaces up I wiped down with acetone thinking it would clean everything. But I quickly found out that the Eastwood PRE cleaning towels actually does a superior job. 174921174922

I went ahead and assembled the RT dropped trunk and cut the trunk floor out. I fitted it before painting. I then built the A-frame to hang the panels on and put paint booth back up. I use a self etching primer after cleaning each panel and ran out about halfway through, which really stinks on a late Saturday afternoon. So I took what was primered and painted those panels and placed an order for more primer. It showed up a couple of days later and I was able to go ahead and finish shooting the primer and painting the remaining panels.174923

[flyboyjy]

But wait I got more than that done. I did get the upper control arm sleeves trimmed. I played with the upper ball joints and did find they do bind up real quick if the paint is not removed. After I wire wheeled the paint off I could run them in by hand. So I then used blue loctite and installed them. The lower control arms were mounted after installing the F panels. The the upper control arms got mounted followed by spindles and hubs.

So I will say my observation of the assembly manual, it could be better and I don't think it would take much effort to do it. I am finding there could be better descriptions and photos to make sure the parts get put together the right way. Also what size sockets are needed. The wheel hub socket is 36 MM, 1 7/16" is close but is actually 36MM.

I also found when putting the upper control arms on the nut on the rear most bolt on both sides it is impossible to get a normal wrench or socket on. I thought about wedging a screwdriver or prybar in there to try and hold it while torqueing it. In the end I chose to dig out one of the many sockets I have modified it the past just for this reason. I used a 3/4" socket with the side cut out that fit nicely in there and was the able to torque the bolt.

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Also for those that don't use anti-seize regularly here is a tip, the point that you think you have put enough on you have already put to much on. It spreads and gets every where. Literally. Just light tough of it is all you need, same with the ARP bolt assembly lube.

And lastly the Most Valuable Tool for the weekend goes to the roller chair. IF you don't have one then get one. Sitting while working and having a place to put your tools is so much easier on your back an knees.

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[Mike.Bray]

Also for those that don't use anti-seize regularly here is a tip, the point that you think you have put enough on you have already put to much on. It spreads and gets every where. Literally. Just light tough of it is all you need, same with the ARP bolt assembly lube.

I swear if I get with in 2 ft of my can f anti-seize it gets on me. Stuff is like a magnet.

[flyboyjy]

So when you look out your garage door and see the snow and it is 16 degrees F outside and falling fast do you turn on the garage heater and get to work? Well maybe but it's going to take a bit to warm it up, the heater is going to spin the electric meter at light speeds. Also the wife just parked her Jeep with out cleaning off all the chunks of ice and when it melts there's going to be a swamp in there. SO instead I grabbed the Wilwood brake hats and rotors and take them in and start assembling at the kitchen table. 3 out of 4 done, tonight is supposed to be just as cold so the 4th one will get done. The weekend will be warmer so I hope to get a bunch done.
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[Papa]

So when you look out your garage door and see the snow and it is 16 degrees F outside and falling fast do you turn on the garage heater and get to work? Well maybe but it's going to take a bit to warm it up, the heater is going to spin the electric meter at light speeds. Also the wife just parked her Jeep with out cleaning off all the chunks of ice and when it melts there's going to be a swamp in there. SO instead I grabbed the Wilwood brake hats and rotors and take them in and start assembling at the kitchen table. 3 out of 4 done, tonight is supposed to be just as cold so the 4th one will get done. The weekend will be warmer so I hope to get a bunch done.
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You need a different heater! My Modine Hot Dawg 75k BTU heaters (one in my shop and one in my garage) keep those spaces at a comfortable 60 degrees all winter for just about $1.00/day in natural gas and pennies per day in electricity.

[flyboyjy]

You need a different heater! My Modine Hot Dawg 75k BTU heaters (one in my shop and one in my garage) keep those spaces at a comfortable 60 degrees all winter for just about $1.00/day in natural gas and pennies per day in electricity.

Yes I considered one of these at one time. Getting the natural gas to it and venting the exhaust were concerns at the time. An LP hookup might eliminate some of the problem. Maybe I will give it another look.

[flyboyjy]

So it has been a busy couple of days, I only get a few hours every night to work out in the garage. I started out by modifying the body buck. I was not real happy with the lower rails placement as the body rested on them. I am not sure if the body would be distorted in anyway over time but why risk it? I also put a cross bar between the front and rear cockpit opening just in case. Also added a shelf down low to hold the build manual and tools.
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Finished the front brakes. Shimming the calipers takes a lot of putting on and taking off the calipers to adjust the washers but in the end the gap is the same distance on each side of the rotor and the right front matches the left front. So I don't expect the brakes to pull uneven.
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I started making a template for putting the heater on the forward firewall. As others before me have found the template that I had to go searching the internet for to drill the holes does not match the heater. So I ended up heavily modifying the template. After a ton of measuring an checking the firewall was finally cut, drilled and the heater test fitted.
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IF you don't already have an air saw I highly recommend getting one. Mine cuts with little vibration and is easy to control.

Moved on to the drivers footbox and pedal quadrant. No need to rant I did that plenty in the garage trying to find the hardware that is not clearly marked and the description in the manual is terrible on assembling the footbox. I went through many build pages looking for clues only to have decided things have changed and none of this matches the book or older builds. The video from FFR from 2013 is really different.

After assembling the quadrant and removing the attachment for the master cylinder I filed down the top of the pedal arm so the quadrant fit and the bolt could go through. The adjustable stop bolt gets mounted to the bracket and the bracket then gets bolted to the Wilwood assembly. The hard part was digging through that mystery box of hardware we have been discussing elsewhere to find the bolts that hold the front of the pedal box to the frame and front panel. There is a mention of a fourth bolt that was supposed to be used in the assembly early on that is no longer part of the process and is NOT to be found. This all gets mounted to the frame.
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[flyboyjy]

More pictures of footbox.175375175376

I will post more when it gets finished.

[flyboyjy]

Hey Ya'll. It has been a while since I last posted anything, holidays, life and POL items have been in the way but I have made progress despite it all.

So I wanted an adjustable clutch cable and knew the FFR cable will just break anyways. Did some shopping and ordered a Granatelli clutch cable with the adjuster. I put the two cables side by side and there is a difference in the size of cable. 179381179382

The POL has become a problem. The IRS fasteners and Koni shocks are on it, so I can't put the rear end in and don't have shocks if I could so I moved onto aluminum panels. Put the passenger side and moved onto the drivers side.179385179386179387179388

[flyboyjy]

I had hoped the IRS fasteners at least would be coming soon so I went ahead and assembled the rear arms. I found when trying to put the swivel ends in the lower arms that they would go so far then bind up. Looks like it was powder coat and welding slag in the threads. So I ordered a 1 1/4 tap and die. Cleaned the arms out and chased the threads on the swivel ends and then it all went together.
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I measured the spindles many times, marked where to cut and thought on it, just kind of messes with ones mind when you figure out this is a one shot cut, there's no going back. Then get to cutting and it is done. Followed by a little polishing work after.
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Next the wheel studs. They hammer out easily. I could have used my shop press to push new ones in but instead used my Lisle stud installer. I had a unused lug nut just for this purpose, after pulling all 10 studs it is pretty much wasted.
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So I had all the rear end parts ready. After several email exchanges I found that FFR had gotten in the IRS fasteners but sadly no update on when shocks might be available. The IRS fasteners arrived on a Saturday night and I opened the box and laid everything out. Seemed a bit light on bolts, after referencing lists that showed what should be there I realized the 8 bolts for holding the A-Arms on were not there. I had my brother come out and help hang the diff up and bolt it in just to finally get it up there and the massive box it was in out of the garage.
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[flyboyjy]

So after some more emails on Monday I had the 8 bolts by the next weekend and put it all together.
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One other thing is the ears on the A-Arms are not quite open enough and needed to be spread a little, the easiest way was to get a section of 1/2-13 all thread and some nuts. Once the nuts and all thread were put in place it took just a little to open everything up to fit.

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I also got my filler neck grommet I ordered. After comparing it with what came in the kit I will say GO FIND THE OEM PART. The consistency of the rubber is vastly different. The FFR supplied one is a lot softer and is physically smaller. I can see that it might not seal well and lead to fuel leaks a lot of other builders have experienced.

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[flyboyjy]

This past weekend I got all the rear brakes mounted. This whole experience has to be one of love, otherwise sitting there with dial calipers measuring the fit of brake calipers and taking them apart multiple times to find the right combination of shims might really get to some. But they are on. Not sure what to think of the park brake handle yet, might have to sit there and look at it some more and decide to keep it or go to something else. Some of you know what it is like to sit there and look at a part for a long time.:D
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Despite today being my birthday I expect to go home and finish the park brakes, maybe put the fuel tank up and look at putting in brake/ fuel lines. And maybe stare at them a little more because it's not my favorite job. And onto the electrical system later this week.

The ice sheet in the street was at least 4 inches thick but is now melting fast. I had hoped to be go carting soon but with no shocks or headers I'm really stuck.

[cc2Arider]

Happy B-Day!

By the way, you mentioned that you could have used your shop press to install the studs, but when I asked the Instructors at the FFR Build School, I got the impression that there was just no room to have the support needed to press in correctly...

I don't have my kit yet to assess for myself...Do you have any pictures of your setup; i.e., how you would locate in your press?

Thanks

Craig C

[flyboyjy]

Happy B-Day!

By the way, you mentioned that you could have used your shop press to install the studs, but when I asked the Instructors at the FFR Build School, I got the impression that there was just no room to have the support needed to press in correctly...

I don't have my kit yet to assess for myself...Do you have any pictures of your setup; i.e., how you would locate in your press?

Thanks

Craig C

Thanks Craig, 51 doesn’t feel any different than 50. I never took the school so I can’t speak to what the instructors may or may not have said. I didn’t think to take pictures of the hub before putting it all together. However using a deep socket and a press with plates should be no problem from what I saw. Now if the hub is mounted to the spindle that would be a completely different story. I did mine the way I did because it was faster and what you can’t tell from the picture is my press is buried behind my body buck on stilts. It takes some effort to get to it right now.
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I found a video that the guy is doing this and his hubs look almost exactly what was in the kit. And I would have installed them the same way.https://youtu.be/MPSJPci-THg

[cc2Arider]

Welcome to the "over 50" club! ;)

Craig C

[flyboyjy]

Time for another update. I gave the park brake a good long look, decided that I was going to use the kit set up and mine will work! I assembled the handle and worked on getting it put in place. After messing with it I changed the direction of the bolts holding the chrome barrel to the handle. I also trimmed off the end of the rod and put a C- clip on the end to hold it in place, although even with out the clip it would not have come out of the pull lever. to make it fit the factory mount got in with my die grinder and cut off wheel and cut a piece about 1/4 of an inch out. The way it was bolted in was also completely different than the manual showed. BUT I had determined that it had full travel and was not going to get hung up on the panel or frame behind it.
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To run the cables I did something similar to EdwardB except I used two steel pulleys. The stock cables are supposed to run under the 4 inch crosstube which means lots of friction and rubbing on the paint, not cool. I had already ordered the Lokar cable block. There used to be a complete linkage set up but apparently Lokar no longer produces it. So I purchased a 5/16 rod from the hardware store along with some spacers and proper length bolts. I threaded one end for 5/16-24 to match the block. From Speedway Motors I ordered the clevis and assembled it all. Then cut off the end of the cables and did the final assembly.
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I tested the best I could and could not get the rotors to budge but the final test will be when the car is in go cart stage.

[flyboyjy]

I also got the fuel tank in. The passenger side front strap bolt that comes with the kit does need to be at least 2 1/2 inches long, the 2 inch was to short. Again another bolt from the hardware store saved the night. Now I suggest you don't do like I did initially which is to put the tank up and forget the RT dropped trunk. So yes I had to drop it, strap the dropped trunk in and put the tank back up. It happens.
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I am farther along than all this but don't have all the pictures yet to post. STILL waiting on shocks to be able to set this on the ground. I am considering getting some black pipe then cutting and drilling to the length I think it needs to be just to be able to mount the engine and go cart it. Although it was -10 degrees and snowing so I can wait a little longer before thinking about driving this.:rolleyes:

[egchewy79]

I also had to drop the tank to get my RT drop trunk mod in.
What's going to drive you nuts is dropping it again if you're doing the "Kleiner mod" with the nut coupler for your rear quick jacks.
the PS lower bolt can't be put in unless you remove the tank again.

[flyboyjy]

Time for more updates. I went ahead and decided to use two reservoirs for the brake master cylinders so the front is isolated from the rear. I made a round plate and using bulkhead fittings ran the feed lines thru where FFR shows the front wire harness is supposed to go thru. It was no problem to relocate the hole to get the harness out and I was more concerned about the brake system. After mounting the reservoirs I got 20" and 30" pieces of brake tubing and bled the master cylinders. Then came time to actually run the brake lines. Constantly asked myself while planning out the brake lines "how would Mike Bray do this" seeing as how his brake lines are exceptional. But I got the fronts in then plumbed in the rear. I think mine look ok as well. Since I am running a carburetor with a mechanical fuel pump I went ahead and laid out the fuel line from the tank to the front and it worked out best to run right alongside the rear brake line.

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I put a wheel on to check for clearance between the wheel and brake caliper. Plenty of space.182289




So I have everything for the car EXCEPT shocks. IF I had known it was going to be a major hang up a year ago when I placed the order I might not have gotten the double adjustable shocks, although I have been told they expect them in soon. BUT I needed a way to be able to put this thing on the ground. Through some research I found Speedway Motors sells a pair of ride height setting devices that go in the place of shocks so the ride height can be set and then the shocks made to match. SO I bought two pairs for a temporary solution. I would not drive on these but at least now the tires can be put on and the car moved around.
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[flyboyjy]

I fit the rear cockpit wall, took some tweaking of the panels but it all fits. Then I started installing the wire harnesses. I test fit the dash panel and like others before me I am not impressed with the fit. I considered getting another sheet of aluminum and custom cutting it to fit then decided just to go with what I had. Boring the 1 1/4" inch holes in the dash makes a big mess. I installed the harnesses and put the fuse box in place then decided it was time to put that engine and transmission in so things could be connected. I cut 4x6s and made it so my ramps would fit. I moved the engine out of its corner and got the transmission back out of the box. Slid them together and bolted up. My Dad and brother are always telling me they will come help and I know I can put the engine in by myself but I called them and had them come help anyways. I got the car turned around, put on ramps and blocks and had the engine/ transmission mounts on by the time they started arriving. Less than an hour later it was in and we decided it was time to go have lunch.

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[flyboyjy]

This is the plug that Tremec puts on the transmission output shaft and it does take some pulling to get it off. I pulled it off when I assembled it to the engine and would not recommend trying it in the car. Later I came in from the top and had room on the drivers side to slide the driveshaft on and bolted to the differential in just a few minutes. I forget to mention I had already mounted the Breeze front battery tray. I do think it would be easier to put in before the engine got put in but certainly not impossible if done later. I also found the CVF bracket for the steering pump sits way to close to the steer shaft to be used. I could have trimmed the end off but the pulley still would be right up against the shaft. CVF makes another bracket for the 351C to use if the 351W is to tight, I ordered it and it showed up last night so now I get to change it and measure for a new belt.

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[flyboyjy]

Quick tool review for those that are curious or will be starting a build in the future. I try to show and recommend what works well and what you may need(WILL need).

I recommend a good set of aluminum AN wrenches, keeps from marring aluminum fittings and especially the front upper control arm sleeves. Next I used a good quality nutsert rivet tool, this one is compact and fits most places. I've seen arguments for and against using pneumatic rivet tools as opposed to manual rivet guns, use what you want but I have pulled multiple 10s of thousands of rivets on semi trailer repairs with this one. And it easily pulled the 3/16 stainless steel rivets with the Breeze battery tray. The brake line flare tool I used does double flares and can do lines on the car or in tight spots. I like the Eastwood one I've seen people use here as well. After cutting large holes in aluminum or steel an easy way to deburr the hole is to use a deburring tool, easier in some cases than a file and doesn't leave file marks. Last was the Husky low profile floor jack. It did not come with a rubber pad but I picked up one from online sources. It goes as low as 3 3/8" and lifts to 19". Over all it has so far worked well and was the best priced 2 1/2 ton jack I could find. Also in the picture of the floor jack is a vacuum brake bleeder. It is able to bleed brakes by yourself using it however for the final bleeding I had one of my boys put pressure on the brakes while I used the tool and wasn't getting air out, mostly for the peace of mind all the air is out.

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[Fman]

Nice work on everything! not sure if you were aware but your pictures are really small and hard to view at least for some us with aging eyes :)

[flyboyjy]

Nice work on everything! not sure if you were aware but your pictures are really small and hard to view at least for some us with aging eyes :)

Thanks Fman. As far as the pictures being small I seem to remember reading in the posting guide lines to send the smallest version possible due to the size of the files sent. BUT now that I see that they are small I will try and start posting the next size up and see if that makes a difference.

[flyboyjy]

Ok time for a quick update from the weekend. Temperatures were up in the mid 60s over the weekend so that meant it was time to coat the exhaust system. I have taken a chance on a product called Zybar from a company name Zycoat to coat the headers and exhaust pipes with. There is a process to the madness. First everything had to be sand blasted and cleaned. I sand blasted it all, blew it off and wiped down the surfaces with a surface cleaner from Eastwood called PRE. The stainless steel headers were still shiny even after sand blasting and after looking closely they were roughed up. So it took 32 ounces shot thru my Devilbiss spray gun then I let them hang out and degas for the rest of the day, application instructions say that takes about 2 1/2 hours to degas. The application instructions call for being placed in an oven at 450 degrees for 3 hours to cure OR kept at a constant 70-90 degrees for 5 days for air curing. I don't have access to an oven that size and certainly not one on short notice, so I put them in a small basement bathroom with a thermostat controlled heater with the door closed to let it all air cure. So far it looks good. I also got to fitting the power steering bracket. I got the new 351C bracket on in place of the 351W that the CVF racing setup I'm using and realized the steer pump pulley and other pulleys were about a half inch off. I have enough spacers to make it fit but it comes in contact with the water pump pulley, so I guess I will be grinding and clearancing the bracket to fit.

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[flyboyjy]

I determined that after looking at the brackets, spacers, hardware and installation instructions from CVF to throw the instructions in the garbage where they belong. After some trial fitting I had all the brackets and pulleys on with the belts and it all does line up.

I had been emailing with the Factory Five parts department about the double adjustable shocks, the last item on my POL. I was told it has been 15 months since they have received any BUT they were told that shipments of them would come in April and May. I would get mine depending on how many they got in and how far down the list I was. A few weeks ago I got a Fedex notification about a 49 pound box from FFR being delivered. When I got home I found they had shipped me a set of Wilwood brakes. So first of all I am not happy with thousands of dollars of brakes sitting on my front porch but what really set me off is the fact the brakes were never on my POL and should not have been sent. Couple of email exhanges later I had a shipping label from FFR and sent them back.

I had gotten a Fedex notification that a 12 pound box had been sent from Factory Five that was set to be delivered today was early and actually arrived Tuesday. I marched into the bosses office and informed him that there was a box that had been delivered and there was a possibility it was my missing shocks I have been going on for months about. His response was "why are you still standing here and not going to find out?" A short time later I got home to find this.182916 Needless to say I am happy and went and found the box with my springs and assembled the shocks.182917


So of course this required for them to be installed.182918182919


Last night was spent putting the headers on, installing the engine oil cooler and started plumbing the power steering lines. The passenger side header was no problem, however that drivers side took twice as long to put on. My oldest son came out and offered to help with the last three bolts on the drivers side. True he could have easily reached in and started the bolts but the thought of him potentially getting into contact with copper anti-seize and it then getting everywhere and finding it in places for months or years later made me decide to tough it out and finish it myself.
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So my plan is to jump back on the wiring and get it finished. As soon as the rest of my fittings show up for the fuel and steering systems this will be real close to being a go kart.

[flyboyjy]

Time for another update, I didn't realize it had been this long. So I have been slowed down but still getting stuff done. I got back to work on the wiring. Decided I wanted a clock so I ordered one from Autometer that matches the rest of my gauges. I also decided to not run an LED and incandesent light combination but instead just run all LED lights. Along with the clock I ordered enough gauge lights to convert them all. I also ordered the headlight/ turn signal set from Breeze. I looked long and hard at the Russ Thompson steering column and ordered the Ididit module to make all this work like TedG has on his car. I was not impressed with the fit of the dash panel. The build manual says mount 3/16" at the hoop corners ABOVE the hoop. I had seen others here all say mount the dash panel 3/16" BELOW the hoop corners. So I had thought about getting a sheet of aluminum and cutting it to fit the way I think it should fit. In the end I laid out and drilled all the holes in the panel and mounted it where it looks like it will work the best. I cut accessory holes in under dash filler panel I got from replicaparts.com and riveted it in. Then spray glued the vinyl to the dash and started installing the gauges and wiring them up.

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I had also found that the light switch that comes in the kit may not work well with LED lights. Autometer has dimmer units that will do the job but only support 6 gauges/ switches per dimmer and I had 10. So I put 2 dimmers in and split the load between them. They got mounted just below the center of the dash. 185893

I mounted the dash and started connecting wires and running wires for sending units and ignitions system.185894

The Ron Francis wiring harness is made to fit at least 3 different cars with multiple different engines and transmission combinations. I quickly came to flat out hate the Ron Francis wire harness. I had seriously considered ripping it out and buying a Painless fuse block and rolls of bulk wire and building my own from the ground up. After a considerable amount of time studying the schematic in the wire harness book I chose to strip it all down, and reconfigure it to suit my build and go with it.

[flyboyjy]

Somewhere in the process I stopped and engineered my own mechanical throttle linkage. I also mounted the radiator. I was trying to plan where to put the expansion reservoir but I did not like how close to the alternator it was going to need to be. So I found a smaller squarish one off Amazon that the wife wouldn't complain about the price on and used it instead. Made mounting brackets and put it in. I also decided to live with the idea of having the engine oil dipstick tube from the Kevko oil pan running up between the headers and just being super hot when checking the oil. But the tube did not fit the bung on the pan. I tried every combination I could but I could not find
the right adapter. So the plug that came with the pan got reinstalled with a copper washer and instead I popped the plug on the front cover and put a normal dipstick in.

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I forgot to put a picture of the dash filler panel and starter solenoid.185900185901



In the end it worked the best to mount the starter solenoid right above the bellhousing and run the wires to it. I'm not sure about the rain letting up this weekend long enough for a first go cart this weekend but I will continue to tie up loose ends and see how it all works out. Might have to wait one more weekend.

[flyboyjy]

First engine start with the engine put in the car. They say if there is no video it didn't happen so here is the proof.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2VDWizqz2Y

[flyboyjy]

Keeping up with the theme "if there is no video it didn't happen" here is the long awaited FIRST GO KART. Split into two videos, my son who was filming it stopped when I went up the hill and started again when I came back down. I will post more build pictures later.

https://youtu.be/4kRIHnJQgfE

https://youtu.be/U57qpcoGBbk

[flyboyjy]

Going to back up a bit on the build pictures. I had found that using the forward firewall and a heater with a 351W there is almost no room between the valve covers and heater core pipes. Holley finally produced some more of the Earl's Ez Beader 010 tool and I got one. I cut the ends of the heater pipes off and put a flare in each pipe, then I was able to install the water shut off valve and put coolant in.

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[flyboyjy]

I had finished installing the dash right before the first engine start. While the engine was running on another day I noted which gauges were not working and found that my cooling fan was never coming on. My dash lights would not come on and the turn signals acted like flashers when the turn signals were turned on even though I had put diodes in to stop back feeding. I found the water temperature gauge reads about 20 degrees hotter than it really is, not sure what the solution to that is yet and the other gauges that weren't working just needed better grounds. I found the dash lights that are all LED had to be ALL oriented in the sockets the same way or they would not work. But I still was not getting power to the dash lights. I traced power into the light switch but wasn't getting any out. Its just a GM style light switch, so I ordered the same one that would fit my 1972 Chevy Blazer sitting in the back ground photos and installed it. Looks to be a better quality switch an it works. A couple of more diodes in the flasher/ turn signal system took care of the back feeding. Another thing I found is that what ever type switch that is used for the emergency flashers has to be a dual pole switch, using a single pole also causes back feeding.

I'm sure others have had better success with the Ron Francis wire harness. I have no idea who thought the relay for the fan circuit needed be wired the way it came but IT DOES NOT work. I ended up after tracing out the fuse block wiring cutting the orange wire which I think is pin 85 and running it to ground. And then I connected the other end of the orange wire going to a fuse back to power and amazingly everything worked.

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[flyboyjy]

A while back I had purchased all the items to set the alignment. 188506188507188508188509




I also went ahead and changed the needles and jets in the carburetor for altitude. It was just running a bit rich and there was no way to lean it out enough.188510188511

[flyboyjy]

I wanted the seat mounted before the first drive. That meant the rear cockpit wall needed to go in and the Dark Water Customs glove box had to be at least fit. It was easiest to install the glove box permanently with the rear wall out. In order to install the rear wall with the glove box installed the trunk aluminum had to go in first, then the rear wall and finally the seat and seat belts. It is possible to mount the "Kleiner mod" before putting all the trunk panels on and there is no reason to drop the fuel tank to do it, at least I didn't have to.
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So my first impression after the go kart session is simply WOW. The steering works great. The brakes needed minimal bedding and stops great. The transmission shifts smooth.

Now the bad: the oil pan leaks out the rear when parked on the sloped driveway. The Kevko pan instructions state not to turn the engine upside down while installing it and it is a real tight space in between the pan and block plate. So after putting the car on stands and crawling around a bit I ordered a new pan gasket, more black RTV and different bolts. Instead of the hex cap socket bolts I'm going to use 12 point ARP bolts and hopefully be able to get the pan to seal better this time around.

[cc2Arider]

Is that a mock-up location for your seat mounts? I ask because it looks like you have to favor towards the passenger side in the middle picture above.

I put my driver's side seat in (to make vroom-vroom noises) this past weekend, and my side to side position was about equi-distant between the two seat belt mounts...

Craig C

[FLPBFoot]

Is that a mock-up location for your seat mounts? I ask because it looks like you have to favor towards the passenger side in the middle picture above.

I put my driver's side seat in (to make vroom-vroom noises) this past weekend, and my side to side position was about equi-distant between the two seat belt mounts...

Craig C

Careful on seat placement. You need the body on to do final seat location as the curved back of the cockpit can hit the seats. Mine favor the center of the car and actually point outward from back to front along the tunnel. Looked weird and felt weird at first but once you get accustomed to it no big deal. Once the car is complete you don't notice it at all.

[flyboyjy]

Is that a mock-up location for your seat mounts? I ask because it looks like you have to favor towards the passenger side in the middle picture above.

I put my driver's side seat in (to make vroom-vroom noises) this past weekend, and my side to side position was about equi-distant between the two seat belt mounts...

Craig C

I only have the drivers seat in and its only got 4 rivets holding it in place to be honest. The Breeze seat mount in the picture is only sitting there unattached at that point. It took a lot of moving around and putting the seat on it for me to decide I had the best reach on the pedals and steering wheel. In reality it is mounted a little more forward and left than what the picture shows. And it might move again once the body is on in a week or two.

[flyboyjy]

Update time. So after several go kart runs I got a neighbor help me get the body down off the body buck. I then removed the body buck from the frame made the frame it was mounted on to a mobile lifting frame. We put the body on the buck and put it all on now frame dolly, rolled it outside and washed it. It's not hot and not cold yet here so I decided to do a takeover of the garage. Once the body was back in I got to work on the last things that needed to be done before I felt the body could be put on and work on it started. The red backlit horn button was wired in and the horns connected. I made a larger block off plate that covers the slot on the drivers side front foot box. I had purchased cabin vents from Paul at Period Correct, cut the holes and mounted them in the foot boxes. I went a head and mounted the fans on the F panels and ran the wiring. It all works I just haven't put the tubing in place yet. The controls for both are tucked behind the dash.

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[flyboyjy]

More pictures from previous post.

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[flyboyjy]

190961190962 Vent controls.


Even with the extended firewall it gets real crowded behind the dash with heater parts and wiring. So I got the heater plenum from northracecars.com and bonded it in after what seemed like hours of measuring, and yes I used Vinylester resin.
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I also ran the wiring inside the transmission tunnel for the seat heaters. I used grey Marine Tex to seal in gaps around the seat belt mounts and a few other places that just could not have a patch panel put over and black silicone didn't seem like the right fix. I also used seam sealer I got from Eastwood to fill some of the gaps in the foot boxes. I went ahead and mounted the drivers side foot box panel.

I made my oldest son come out and help me get the body off the buck and turned upside down. I trimmed the cockpit edges 1/4". We suspended the body and I cut the front wheel wells down to the 1/4 inch. After some consulting with Jeff Kleiner I trimmed the area below the headlights between the oil cooler opening and wheel wells. 190966

[flyboyjy]

I pulled the exhaust off after pulling the car under the suspended body. The 4 into 4 gasket literally fell apart so I have new ones on order and the final assembly might just be done with the red high temp silicone I have seen others using. The wiper motor is in place.

I had the wife and kids come out and 10 minutes later the body was lowered back into place. Now for the fun of fitting panels and bodywork.
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I had read over the years that the body cutouts when done by FFR are sort of close but not always in the right spot which is why I chose to do them myself. I'm going to try the Eastwood dustless sanding blocks. I have it connected to a Homer bucket and the shop vac attachment Home Depot sells that fits it, a couple of test passes on the sharp mold parting lines and it seems to work pretty good. I also checked and where FFR marked the openings for the side vents are no where close to the same measurements, the drivers side is almost 2 inches off the passenger side.
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[Mike.Bray]

I pulled the exhaust off after pulling the car under the suspended body. The 4 into 4 gasket literally fell apart so I have new ones on order and the final assembly might just be done with the red high temp silicone I have seen others using.

Give these (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfl-8023) a try, hard to beat Remflex.

[flyboyjy]

Give these (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfl-8023) a try, hard to beat Remflex.

Thanks Mike that's what I was looking for.

[flyboyjy]

I have been poking at more body work. Got the exhaust holes cut out on both sides. Spent a lot of time looking at other build posts here to get a feel for where everyone else has theirs cut. Keep in mind my heads have raised runners and ports, it's also a 351 and sits higher than a 302 block. So after many many many measurements and marking I finally made the cuts then test fit the pipes. The pictures are deceptive but with the exhaust pipes on i have a comfortable 1/2 inch gap from pipe to body.192028192029.

I have done a little smoothing work around the gas cap and I have to agree by hand is the best way to work it in.

And as most have found and there is just no way to beat around the bush, my doors suck. The low spots in the body sure don't help matters. After several putting the doors on and marking then removing and trimming they fit fairly well now. I thought the drivers door was going to be the problem but with a little adjusting it fits great, the passenger door not so much.

192030192031192032192033. So just a little more sanding work here and there on the drivers side.

[flyboyjy]

Now the passenger door. It took less trimming to fit but just still fits terribly, also I didn't pay much attention to it when I received the car be the top rear edge is chipped and will take some building up to match the body.

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It's hard to tell from the pictures but the body under the door needs to move in but is already hitting the frame there so it looks like body filler will have to be used on the bottom edge of the door and build up the area in front of the door where the body dives in.

I had trouble finding HRSF when I was looking but found the same stuff GO DAD GO used to build up his upper door edges to meet the front cockpit and I think it will work to build up the rear of the door as well. I will find out and report back.

I have the trunk loosely in place. I am thinking that maybe I might get all the body panels on, all the lights put in place, windshield, wipers and heater connected I might go ahead and register it even though the driving season is largely done here then drive it in gel coat for a while starting next year.

[John Ibele]

It's hard to tell from the pictures but the body under the door needs to move in but is already hitting the frame there so it looks like body filler will have to be used on the bottom edge of the door and build up the area in front of the door where the body dives in.

When you say "hitting the frame", I hope you're not talking about the inner edge of the body hitting the frame. The bottom of the body goes below the frame and is pushed inboard, so you can put a fastener straight up through the body and into the frame, locking it in place. Some do a slot instead of a hole in the body, so it's adjustable in / out. The only shot I have shows the DS side, near the O2 sensor for my Sniper, and no fastener within view. But it's still a useful shot: the inboard edge of the wire loom is a good indication of where the outside edge of the frame sits in relation to the inner edge of the body (looks like a bit more than 1" overlap). The PS door generally fits better than the DS, with only some in / out adjustment of the body at the bottom to dial it in.

Of course, as you push it in, it eventually will 'bottom out'. Which may be exactly what you're facing. Just want to make sure you're not missing an easy fix. Good luck.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53097387447_5b1038d1d6_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oU2Zpn)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2oU2Zpn) by John Ibele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/familycobra/), on Flickr

[flyboyjy]

When you say "hitting the frame", I hope you're not talking about the inner edge of the body hitting the frame. The bottom of the body goes below the frame and is pushed inboard, so you can put a fastener straight up through the body and into the frame, locking it in place. Some do a slot instead of a hole in the body, so it's adjustable in / out. The only shot I have shows the DS side, near the O2 sensor for my Sniper, and no fastener within view. But it's still a useful shot: the inboard edge of the wire loom is a good indication of where the outside edge of the frame sits in relation to the inner edge of the body (looks like a bit more than 1" overlap). The PS door generally fits better than the DS, with only some in / out adjustment of the body at the bottom to dial it in.

Of course, as you push it in, it eventually will 'bottom out'. Which may be exactly what you're facing. Just want to make sure you're not missing an easy fix. Good luck.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53097387447_5b1038d1d6_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oU2Zpn)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2oU2Zpn) by John Ibele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/familycobra/), on Flickr

Thanks John. No the body is wrapped around frame like it is supposed to with the front and rear quick jack bolts holding it in the right spot, looks exactly like yours in the picture. But to make the door on the passenger side line up better at the bottom the body would need to move in almost 1/2 inch. But the body comes in contact with the 2x2 frame rail before that. I have spent some more time studying it and I think maybe with some more tweaking and using some washers on the lower studs of the door hinge I can angle the door out more then look at building it up. I've seen Go Dad Go split the doors to take care of this but I'm not ready yet to go that way.

[John Ibele]

Understand. Too bad. I do recall having to push the side in pretty aggressively, to the point where the body edge moved down away from the frame (until I tightened up the body-to-frame fastener). Hopefully you won’t have to spilt the door. Sounds like a major pain. Good luck.

[flyboyjy]

Time for a 2024 update and I hope everyone had a Happy New Years day.

So from where I last left off the passenger door seems that it came trimmed a bit to much from FFR as I had little to do to in the way of trimming it down but there are some gaps that are to large and may need to be filled in bottom door opening in the body. Adjusting it took hours and days of trying different spacers between the door and hinges to get it all lined up. Once that got done the door latch got put on. Onto the drivers door. Once it was trimmed to fit in door opening it fit great and took a minor amount of adjusting. No washers or spacers needed, door latch went on easily.

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https://youtube.com/shorts/gGPrKhpt6CQ?si=oiF_rQo09GhdE6y8
https://youtube.com/shorts/8e6XwLWB4qs?si=XPDyxW_dBvpx-qUh

[flyboyjy]

Next I took a whole day and got the hood ready. I sand blasted and assembled the hood hinges then mounted them. Trimmed the hood to fit, and LOTS of measuring and remeasuring and tracing the hood scoop followed by more measuring. Finally drilled some small holes and used the air saw to cut the hole for the hood scoop. Then more plotting and finally drilling the holes around the scoop and bolting it on. I don't think it looks bad.
194029194030194031 I tried to put the hood gas shocks on but the front of the hood kept on getting pushed up when it was closed. So I took them off and it sits flush again, so I ordered the Breeze hood dual hold open kit and the truck lid hold open kit but have yet to mount them.

The trunk lid went easily. I put the weather stripping on and set the trunk lid in place an marked it, trimmed it and put it on. Fits nicely.
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[flyboyjy]

Starting last Friday the temperatures started dropping into negative temperatures so nothing got done over the weekend other than binge watching John Wick movies on Netflix.

The weekend before and all through the week was a flurry of activity. Now that the body, door, trunk and hood fit had been figured out I needed to lift the body and install the hoses for the defroster and heat vent in the foot boxes. So everything came back off and the body raised up high enough to get all the hoses put in then set back down and all the stuff put back on. Only really takes a few hours at this point.194539194540

I went ahead and mounted the headlights and front running lights, as far as adjusting the headlights I will have to worry about that someday later. The front bumpers got put on as well.
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I did a bunch of measuring again and marked then cut the holes in the sides of the front fenders for the side vents. The roll bar holes were cut and the roll bar put in place.
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[flyboyjy]

As the temperatures plummeted Friday night and the garage heater running non stop I got the passenger exhaust mounted back to the header and the mounting points under the car determined the pipe got strapped up to be finished when it was warmer out. However the seat heaters did get put in the seats, the seat vinyl spray glued and carried back inside to dry. The wiring has been in place for some time just waiting for the seat install.
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I have been considering getting and installing the vents in the hood, seen a couple of pictures with them installed but just not completely convinced yet.

[flyboyjy]

MORE build update. I drilled the holes out on the rear overriders which took a surprising amount of effort. Then put them in place and Jeff Kleiner is not lying about how hard it is to get the nuts started inside. Once on they look great. I got the tail lights installed and they are nice and bright. After that I got the trunk latch installed. Getting all the holes lined up and drilled not such a big deal, getting the nut on the long bolt with the dropped trunk, now that was a big deal. There is little room to get between the fuel tank to get up there and get the washer and nut on. Once accomplished I tried the latch out and it works great.

196607196608196609https://youtube.com/shorts/Dg6scOeZuno?si=vCquAV-P9HJs4hth


Funny story on the video of the trunk opening and closing. I put it on youtube as a short for no good reason. My oldest son puts videos on of his Pokeman things he is doing and he puts some effort into the video. He was so excited that after 3 days he had 318 views. Then saw my video with no effort put into it with 5.6K views after 2 days. So needless to say he doesn't understand why people want to watch a trunk open and close and I can't explain it either but it is very funny.

[flyboyjy]

Moving right along I went ahead and finished the transmission tunnel cover. I used the FFR panel to decided exactly where the shifter hole needed to be placed. Then I transferred that and where the cup holders needed to be placed to cardboard and test fitted it. Once I was happy with the placement I transferred all those markings to the trans top from FFMetal. I fit that and drilled holes where the top will mount to nutserts in the frame. I then used a padded vinyl with a diamond pattern sewn into it to cover the top using spray glue. I let it dry 24 hours, cut the holes out and bolted it into place. I think I will end up covering the glove box lid in between the seat with the same vinyl.

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[flyboyjy]

Windshield. I have been avoiding it but the time has come. After tons of measuring and carefully slotting the holes and more measuring the holes in the body were in the right spot. I finally had to have my Dad and brother come help me hold the windshield in the right place to get the 27 inches from door opening to screw hole. While they held it I got the posts marked where the holes needed to be drilled. We then removed the windshield and went to work on drilling and tapping the holes. My Dad is a retired machinist so suffice it for me to say the holes were drilled and tapped perfectly. We put the windshield back in and loosely bolted in place so I could shim it and avoid putting any undue stress on the glass. After seeing where exactly the windshield was mounted I was then able to map out where the defroster vents needed to go. So the windshield came out one more time and the defroster holes were cut and diffusers mounted. Then carefully put the windshield back in place.196880196881

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I have got the windshield wipers now mounted. To fit I did have to cut about 3/16" off the rubber spacers to fit through enough to get the nut started on the gear box. I'm still working on getting the cable and wiring worked out. And I am adding a windshield washer system. I am replacing the stainless steel tube for 5/16" brake line. It's up under there so I don't care what color it is but that stainless is near impossible to bend and match the curve of the body.

[flyboyjy]

Pictures I forgot from last week. The cup holders are the extra large I found to go on pool tables. Then I lined the sides and bottoms with 1/8" rubber I got from McMaster-Carr. The average size Yeti cup fits with out moving around. And of course the pictures of the windshield measuring out to 27" on both sides because if there's no pictures or video then it didn't happen.:rolleyes:


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[flyboyjy]

I told myself I was going to be better about posting progress here but....

With the windshield wipers in and working I got the windshield washer system in and working. Then I moved onto the wind wings, visors and mirrors. The mirrors I used are the ones from Breeze and they provide a much better view than using the body mounted one from FFR. I made my appointment with the Colorado State Patrol (CSP) to get the vin inspection done, the only problem is it was 7 weeks away at the time. I had procrastinated long enough on sound proofing and carpet. Originally I had opted for sound proofing when I ordered the car from FFR but due to supply problems they canceled it and refunded the money. So I took a chance on the Koolmat that Breeze sells. So I started fitting the sound proofing, it is close to the right shapes but is not an exact fit. As I found if it is a straight, flat surface it goes in pretty easily. However on ANY curved surface it is to rigid to flex and fit. So I had to relief cut it on any bend. Also even with the garage door wide open I still got complaints from the family about the odor of Weldwood contact cement. The right drivers foot box with the bend and curve all in the same piece was just impossible to get on, so I have a section of Dynamat that is to be used in the trunk that got put in place.



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Then came the carpet. I found that the carpet is again sort of close but took lots of trimming and fitting, also the spray glue besides getting EVERYWHERE no matter how well you tape and lay plastic sheeting doesn't hold real well, I resorted to the contact cement and it works great.

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[flyboyjy]

I measured and mounted both seats using the Breeze seat mounts after getting the lap part of the seat belts in. Installed the rest of the seat belts and the transmission tunnel cover and interior is done for now.
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I had intended to spray bed liner on the underside of the body but it had gotten to cold over the winter to do it. I had put off putting the aluminum panels and wheel well liners in until now. I will have to pull the body off again at some point so the bed liner will just have to wait. 3 of the four aluminum panels went in with minimal trimming and fitting but that left rear was a nightmare to fit. The wheel well liners I got from Shane at V Raptors Speedworks fit real well and all I had to do was make a couple of brackets for the fronts and drill the mounting holes. I used 1/4 round head bolts with big fender washers to clamp securely in place.
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So today is the 7th. On the 20th I have an appointment with the DMV to get the process started and get a temp tag to go to the CSP which is scheduled for the 21st. Then later on the 21st another appointment with the DMV to get the plate process started. I rechecked the right height with the body on and reset the alignment. Allegedly a red Roadster was said to be out driving the neighborhood but there's no video proof so I don't know what they are talking about. I'm still working on small things but the car would be ready to go now.

[flyboyjy]

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[flyboyjy]

So the dreaded registration has begun. IF YOU ARE IN COLORADO BEWARE!!!! I had to schedule the State Patrol visit and the earliest date was 7 weeks out, and I had to schedule a visit a day before and after the State Patrol visit with the DMV. This process is supposed to be a visit to the DMV to pay taxes and get the temp tag, a visit to the State Patrol and they issue a request to the State to generate a VIN then back to the DMV and give them the State Patrol paperwork so they can start their process, because NO ONE talks to each other from any agency involved.

Got insurance from Robbin at Midwest Classic Insurance in early June with absolutely no problems. Then came the first DMV appointment on June 20th, it is sad that despite legislation being enacted in 2007 for this I knew more about doing this than the DMV people. After about an hour which is about 3 times longer than it should have taken the lady helping me at the DMV had bugged the manager enough to figure how to issue a temporary registration and I paid a big pile of money in taxes I finally was issued a 60day temporary registration and tag. So I ran home and put the tag on, grabbed my oldest son and we went out and did the 2 mile calibration run to get the speedometer calibrated. Then we went and had it weighed, 2440 lbs with half tank of fuel. Cruised by my shop to show off and then off to a gas station to see what the tank holds. Then we went home and parked in the garage. About 50 miles of driving. Went out later and found a puddle of oil under the car but could not determine the source.

The next day my oldest and I went to our appointment with the Colorado State Patrol. Trooper asked to see all the lights and horn work, asked for Certificate of Origin and my engine receipts. I paid him the fee(which went up in July) and he came back 5 minutes later, handed me my paperwork and we discussed the rest of the process. He said he would see me in 6-8 weeks to install the Colorado issued VIN. Drove home and parked in the garage. Went back to the DMV for my second scheduled and got a different lady who was even more lost on the process, the manager from the previous day was there but again after an hour of nonsense and faxing off a load of paperwork and pictures to the State. SO I thought this was done and just wait for phone calls from the State Patrol to get the VIN installed on the car and go get plates issued. Tuesday morning the following week I get a call from a lady at the DMV requesting more pictures and a notarized copy of the invoice from FFR. I asked what happened to the pictures I provided, she sent just one, State wants all four sides. I told her I have never heard of anyone having to provide a notarized invoice and wasn't even sure I could get one but I would try. I emailed pictures as asked and called FFR and told Tonya what I was needing. Couple of days later Sally Bean called me back to get clarification because this is highly unusual to have a notarized invoice like this. There is no donor car, no bond required so makes no sense and FFR only provides the "kit". But she did notarize a copy and send it to me. All the copies went to the DMV who said it would now get forwarded to the State and the process should get done. Will it get done before my temp tag expires? NO clue.

I was still getting a puddle of oil under the car. I was finding small puddles on top of the intake manifold and timing cover. And down the right side of the engine. I wiped all the oil off and ran the engine but even after 20 minutes there wasn't anything coming out. I started looking for leaks and found oil coming out of the plug on the distributor. I pulled the cap off and sure enough there was oil in the cap. I sat an studied the engine for a long time and then realized that those really cool valve covers with COBRA on them that we all like to use has one PCV port on one cover and the other is solid with no openings. At higher RPM the crankcase pressure builds and pushes out where ever it could. So it pushing out the distributor, four intake manifold bolts in center and dipstick. So I pulled out the four bolts and sealed the threads up before reinstalling them. I ordered new valve covers and replaced the dipstick tube with one that fit and sealed up better.

Replaced the valve covers and have put about 150 more miles on the car with no leaks.

201723201724 These work great.

201730 This with only one with an oil fill/ breather hole I recommend staying away from.


My thoughts on the DMV and state of Colorado people. I work for an equipment repair shop and we sell concrete pumps. The concrete pumps come mounted on a trailer and have a serial number and a VIN from the factory and are expected to be registered and plated by the new owners. After talking to my salesman about all this he says for about the last 3.5 years about 85% of his paper work gets sent back when submitted and that used to never happen. He thinks the older workers that knew how to do this type of thing have all quit or retired. He is under the opinion that all the new young workers just simply have no clue what they are doing and it's not improving any time soon. SO anyone in Colorado be prepared.

[flyboyjy]

GOOD NEWS! Finally after months of waiting I have finally gotten my car titled and plated. Entire process took 117 days. Something that should have been done in 2 months or less took almost double that. I spent hours on the phone after the first 60 days and even had the Mile High Cobra Club/ Old Car Collector Council who sponsored the legislation to register a kit car in 2007 looking into it. I had found the local DMV people were absolutely clueless on the process and couldn't help. The Colorado State Patrol representative I turned to help from was the absolute rudest trooper I have ever encountered and of no help. The State DMV people on about the fourth phone call finally found where the Colorado issued VIN number had been generated and approved on July 19th and the VIN plate had been produced but no one could figure out where it went.

On the 112th day I got a call from the State Patrol Trooper that does all the VIN inspections telling me he had the VIN tag in hand. So we set up an appointment the next week to get it installed. I drove out and arrived to my appointment. The Trooper installing the VIN plate decided the best place was to put it right over the top of the FFR frame number, he handed me a document and told me this is all I need to get plates now. Luckily I have documented what my chassis number was. So as soon as it was installed I made an appointment for later that afternoon with the local DMV to get a title and plates issued.

So at the local DMV I again get the deer in the headlight stare from the teller, with a comment of "oh I have only started one of these types of process but never finished one." After 45 minutes of basically handing her a large stack of paper work and paying another large sum of money I was finally issued a title for the car and I ordered personalized plates.

About 2 weeks later my plates showed up and got installed that night. SO the personalized plate is "IBLTTHS" and when you add the right letters to it that stands for " I BUILT THIS". I am sure we all get asked this, but I simply don't understand the people who ask after seeing the gel coat and mold parting lines if it is original. Or who made it? I mounted the front plate using the mount I got from Michael Everson since in the state of Colorado we are required to have one.

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The car now has a little over 600 hundred miles on it so there is an oil change coming soon. And if it is a day with clear roads and above 40ish degrees there is a good chance I will take it out for a drive.

So yes I am happy and it is a big relief to have it fully legal. Now for the body work and for some changes over the winter.

[lewma]

nice plate ( and car )

[flyboyjy]

nice plate ( and car )

Thanks