alluminum panel mounting

[Scott e]

Hey guys
Just getting started on my 65 Coupe.
Just wondering why Rivets are used instead of self taping screws. Just an ascetic thing?
Also, I was thinking of using Durmat in the footbox area and putting it on the panel before fastening it to the frame instead of cutting around the frame members as I have seen on Youtube video. I would think it would keep any resonating vibrations through the frame members out of the cockpit. Am I overthinking this? Any reason not to do this?
Thanks for any info.

Scott Enck

[Namrups]

If I understand you right you will have duramat between the chassis member and the aluminum panel. If I'm correct then I think you will have fitment problems. The panels have been designed and cut/bent to sit against the chassis member. Your panel overlap may get screwed up due to the extra width of the duramat. Using silicone between the panel and the chassis will eliminate vibrations and help to seal the exterior from the interior. But having said that this is your build. You can build it any way you want. Nobody will criticize you for doing something different. A lot of very good mods have come from builders doing things differently.

[edwardb]

Agree 100% that adding a sandwich of insulation between the aluminum panels and the frame will mess up your panel alignment. Plus there's simply no reason to do that for reasons of vibration or whatever. Installed per the instructions with a silicone bead and rivets at the described spacing you will not have any vibration sounds. I'm kind of surprised how often this comes up with new builders. Well built (per the manual...) these cars simply don't make any vibration noises, rattles, whatever. Nearly everyone who has ridden in my builds has commented about the absence of rattles, squeaks, etc. They are just rock solid. Partly due to the very rigid frames, assembly methods, and overall design. Granted it's more work to fit the insulation pieces inside the frame members. But it's really the only way to do it. Agreed for the footbox pieces easier to do before installing the panels. With the panels in place, trace around the frame members, and then I made patterns from cardboard. Discussed in this post and the following one in my build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=333335&viewfull=1#post333335.

I'm personally not a fan of self-tapping screws. Especially for going into thin wall tubing and also where they may be removed and replaced for maintenance. Rivnuts are a one-time installation that will pay off for a long time. Although then need to be installed properly to not loosen and/or spin. For something you want removeable but don't expect would be often or at all, using rivets without the silicone is another option. The rivets drill out pretty easily. Some do this, although it's not my personal choice.

[Scott e]

Thanks guys.
Will do as you recommend.

[Yellville]

I had the same thought about self-taping screws vs. rivets when I was removing the panels initially. The screws would be a bit quicker, but I do think the rivets look better. And using a button head rivnut looks better than a self-tapping screw, imo.

[MetalManiac]

Screws protrude more than rivets so the sound insulation and carpet might have little bumps every few inches.
Also screws can ...possibly...back out over time due to vibration while rivets won't.


~Chris