How to Install Rear Quick Jack Bolts Once Tank and Trunk Floor are Installed

[32J]

Hi - What's the latest and best method to install the rear quick jack bolts once the tank and trunk floor are already installed? How does Factory Five do it when no one is looking? :D

I just mounted the body for the first time, getting ready to fit / gap the doors, hood, and trunk lid.

Thanks,

#145999

[egchewy79]

Hate to tell you but you might need to drop the tank. While you’re at it, look up the “Kleiner mod” which uses a nut coupler to allow you to install quick jack bolts without dropping the tank in the future

[32J]

Hate to tell you but you might need to drop the tank. While you’re at it, look up the “Kleiner mod” which uses a nut coupler to allow you to install quick jack bolts without dropping the tank in the future

Surely after hundreds / thousands of kits sold, Factory Five would have put a small detail like this in their latest instruction manual, yes? I've seen the Kleiner mod, but before I head that route I'm hoping to hear back from a tech at Factory Five to understand how they do it.

Thanks,

32J

[rthomas98]

Surely after hundreds / thousands of kits sold, Factory Five would have put a small detail like this in their latest instruction manual, yes? I've seen the Kleiner mod, but before I head that route I'm hoping to hear back from a tech at Factory Five to understand how they do it.

Thanks,

32J

You can still do the kleiner mod after the fuel tank is installed. A 1/2" bolt will fit on the passenger side upper (the tightest point). Bit of a contortion act to do it but can be done (had to do it myself). I really do recommend the mod as it allows you an additional point to move the body in and out. Especially when mounting the trunk lid. As I had to trim less because I moved the body to the bottom lip. Just some food for thought.

[GoDadGo]

Ditto On The Kleiner Rear Bumper Mount Modification!

................It Simply Works & Works Well!

[32J]

You can still do the kleiner mod after the fuel tank is installed. A 1/2" bolt will fit on the passenger side upper (the tightest point). Bit of a contortion act to do it but can be done (had to do it myself). I really do recommend the mod as it allows you an additional point to move the body in and out. Especially when mounting the trunk lid. As I had to trim less because I moved the body to the bottom lip. Just some food for thought.

I'm leaning towards the mod. (Would still like to hear from FFR tech, though.) Question: for the 7/16 bolt, does a 1/2" shank length offer enough 'bite' for the coupler, after it passes through the mounting plate, sound mat (in my case), and some carpeting? I suppose I can buy 1" long bolts and then hack them shorter if I have trouble passing them through from the tank side. I'm not Andre the Giant, but I don't have baby hands, either.

Thanks,

32J

[egchewy79]

I suppose you can put a length of all thread through and double nut on the back side as well, or tack weld the nut to the thread if you have a welder.

[cc2Arider]

I've been wondering for several months now...does anyone use the quick jacks at the rear (or the front) for real lifting?

The size of the bolts makes me think this is purely cosmetic... :(

Craig C

[john42]

I've been wondering for several months now...does anyone use the quick jacks at the rear (or the front) for real lifting?

The size of the bolts makes me think this is purely cosmetic... :(

Craig C

They are cosmetic.

[egchewy79]

cosmetic, but besides the windshield and roll bar, are really the only thing holding the body to the frame.

[AC Bill]

I've been wondering for several months now...does anyone use the quick jacks at the rear (or the front) for real lifting?Craig C

As they come equipped from FFR..NO. Additional reinforcement to the frame is req'd, and will require welding. This may give you an idea of what is required at the front.
173634

[rthomas98]

I'm leaning towards the mod. (Would still like to hear from FFR tech, though.) Question: for the 7/16 bolt, does a 1/2" shank length offer enough 'bite' for the coupler, after it passes through the mounting plate, sound mat (in my case), and some carpeting? I suppose I can buy 1" long bolts and then hack them shorter if I have trouble passing them through from the tank side. I'm not Andre the Giant, but I don't have baby hands, either.

Thanks,

32J

The coupler actually ends up against the frame when tight not the aluminum/carpet/sound deadener etc. It will fit through the hole already in panel. So more then enough room with a 1/2" length bolt.

Here is a link to the Kleiner Mod. Easier to see the pictures. He uses 1/2" long bolts as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38622-Kleiner-Mod

[Jeff Kleiner]

Here is a link to the Kleiner Mod. Easier to see the pictures.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38622-Kleiner-Mod

Hey, thanks for posting that! Saved me from having to dig it up ;)

Jeff

[Scott L]

So how many on this thread know the legend of Captain O-Ring.....

[i.e.427]

The bolts install from the outside of the body in....................... So what am I missing? We are talking about quick jacks and NOT bumpers, correct? You can get to every nut from the inside. The upper passenger side is accessible from the fuel pump access cover and the driver's side you can reach over the top of the tank from the side of the car. Bottom two are easily reached up from the bottom. I've built dozens of these cars and never had an issue getting quick jacks installed.

Now bumpers/over riders????? That's a horse of a different color

[Jeff Kleiner]

So how many on this thread know the legend of Captain O-Ring.....

:D ;)

Jeff/Captain O

[rthomas98]

So how many on this thread know the legend of Captain O-Ring.....

I do not know this story. (sitting in front of a fire awaiting a grand tale of gallantry and magic)

[32J]

The coupler actually ends up against the frame when tight not the aluminum/carpet/sound deadener etc. It will fit through the hole already in panel. So more then enough room with a 1/2" length bolt.

Here is a link to the Kleiner Mod. Easier to see the pictures. He uses 1/2" long bolts as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38622-Kleiner-Mod

I picked-up some some hardware and went with 1" long bolts to start. If they're too long for me to maneuver in through the back-side of the mounting plates, I can cut the length down as needed.

Thanks,

32J

[Ray]

I used a crowfoot wrench and a number of extensions on a ratchet.

Ray

[Ducky2009]

I used the couplers per the Jeff mod. I installed bolts that ended approx half way through the coupling.

[Papa]

I suppose you can put a length of all thread through and double nut on the back side as well, or tack weld the nut to the thread if you have a welder.

This is what I did.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24916-Papa-s-MKIV-Roadster-Build-9115-(Post-Grad)-One-million-views!!!&p=315838&viewfull=1#post315838

[Derald Rice]

It is possible to get to them from underneath...

Did it for years.... but considering the rare need for access it is not a big deal

But when I did the drop floor, I added the fuel tank access plate on the pass side, and the pass nuts are easily available through that access hole.

On the driver side, I drilled one inch holes through the dropped rear wall for access and then covered the holes with cap plugs.