Brent's Ford 351 Cleveland Coupe Build

[burchfieldb]

If you see items you like in my build, you can find some of them on my site and if it is not on there I can likely make it made for you.

https://snakebitemotorworks.com/

It has begun, below are the details of my build, something that I have been planning for the past 20 years:

Type 65 Complete Kit
Wilwood Brakes
Wood Steering Wheel
Carpet Kit
Nose Scoops
Side Windows
IRS 3.55 Center Section
Hydraulic Clutch, with Forte’s External Hydraulic Clutch Kit
Unpainted Frame
Heat and AC
Power Steering

Sparco Grid Q Seats - These will have custom leather covers that I plan on sewing. I plan on tying some HVAC ducts to each seat and making them heated and cooled, using metal grommets as the ventilation passage through the covers.

Parts to Order/Select
Gauges
Wheels and Tires
Fuel Safe Fuel Cell - I am still trying to decide if I am going to go this route. Not sure I can pass inspection with it, since they are not DOT approved.
Wipers - I am planning on using the Specialty Power Windows one

1972 Ford 351 Cleveland, bored to a 393 and stroked
- Heads - Trick Flow Power Port 195
- Valve Covers - Blue Thunder Competition Series covers
- Roller Rockers - Trick Flow, TFS-53400621
- Cam - Lunati Voodoo Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam
- Grooved Cam Bearings - TMeyer
- Lifters - Street Performance Hydraulic Roller Lifters from Lunati
- Manifold - Edlebrock 7564
- EFI: MSD Atomic 2
- PRW billet steel flywheel
Scat Rotating assembly: 1-94412BE
- Scat 9000 series crank 3.85” stroke
- Scat forged steel I-beam rods
- Autotec forged pistons 4.030”
- Total Seal file to fit rings
- King main and rod bearings
- Scat harmonic dampener

Oil Pan and Pickup - Kevco F608 and F608-1
Melling M-84AHV
Rollmaster Timing Set
ARP hardware
TMeyer - Timing cover, distributor clamp, thermostat, pointer, and fuel block off.
March Performance Serpentine Kit
Ansen Air Cleaner

173557

Tremec TKX
Gear ratio 2.87, 1.89, 1.28, 1, .68od

Kit ordered January 20th, 2022
Kit Received September 24th, 2022

I have a decent number of parts on the POL, but the main missing item is my hardware kit to attach everything. So I will be focusing on mounting sheet metal panels for a while.

173556


When installing my pedal box, I pulled back the rubber boots on my Wilwood master cylinders and noticed that 2 of the 3 had rods that were corroded.

173559

How is everyone attaching their steering shaft flange bearing. Outside over the front footwell sheet metal, between the frame and front footwell sheet metal, or on the inside of the footbox mounted through the frame? The manual is not really clear.

[Higgybulin]

Gotta love a Cleveland!!!
Higgy

[edwardb]

Another fun Coupe build. Will be interested to watch. For the steering shaft flange bearing, I put mine on the inside of the footbox front. On the outside, the u-joint hit the bearing. Inside or outside doesn't matter once it's in place. Whatever fits the best. I don't know what to make of whatever that is on the Wilwood MC's. Doesn't look good. Hard to know what's inside although they're not hard to take apart. I'd sure be following up with Factory Five on those. Minor point -- you have 2.55 ratio on your IRS pumpkin in the first post. I'm sure you mean 3.55. (Not that I'm remotely immune from typos. :rolleyes:)

[burchfieldb]

Gotta love a Cleveland!!!
Higgy

Some how I stumbled across it on Facebook Market Place and it had been untouched.

173560

[burchfieldb]

Another fun Coupe build. Will be interested to watch. For the steering shaft flange bearing, I put mine on the inside of the footbox front. On the outside, the u-joint to hit the bearing. Inside or outside doesn't matter once it's in place. Whatever fits the best. I don't know what to make of whatever that is on the Wilwood MC's. Doesn't look good. Hard to know what's inside although they're not hard to take apart. I'd sure be following up with Factory Five on those. Minor point -- you have 2.55 ratio on your IRS pumpkin in the first post. I'm sure you mean 3.55. (Not that I'm remotely immune from typos. :rolleyes:)
Haha, I must have fat fingered that one!

[Salty Chief 35]

Cleveland’s rock!!!
Respectfully
Jeremie

[bjblock]

I also got my kit a few weeks ago - making progress on aluminum panels until fasteners and a few other items arrive (got two left rear spindles and a 3-link rear fastener pack instead of IRS).

I was also going to start the pedal box, but noticed I'm missing is the brake and clutch switch mounts (p/n 14788 according to the manual). I didn't even see them on the inventory or POL. Did you get those with your kit?

[FracAG1980]

As to the corrosion, has the car been kept near the ocean? Looks like salt build up to me, with some corrosion from the salt...

[burchfieldb]

I also got my kit a few weeks ago - making progress on aluminum panels until fasteners and a few other items arrive (got two left rear spindles and a 3-link rear fastener pack instead of IRS).

I was also going to start the pedal box, but noticed I'm missing is the brake and clutch switch mounts (p/n 14788 according to the manual). I didn't even see them on the inventory or POL. Did you get those with your kit?

Nope, I am also missing those. I don't think they were on my POL either. I had about a half of page of parts not on the POL.

[burchfieldb]

As to the corrosion, has the car been kept near the ocean? Looks like salt build up to me, with some corrosion from the salt...

Nope, I am in Central Ohio and have only had it for a couple of weeks. Probably when they were at FFR, they are right next to the coast.

[burchfieldb]

I have not had a chance to post in a while. Work has been super busy and I have been waiting on my hardware kit. Probably the second most challenging thing to have on backorder, next to not having a frame. I did receive it a couple of weeks ago and have been able to work on sheet metal panel installation. I had some free time on vacation and took some time to work on some interior concepts and I thought I would share, this is the leading one. Thinking of covering my Sparco seats in brown leather, having brown leather on the top of the transmission tunnel, and black leather on the dash and sides of the transmission tunnel. Will use heavy black thread for the stitching. Planning on making a mold and laying up the dash with fiberglass.


175769175770175767175771175768

[Salty Chief 35]

Nice rendering, like that combo!
Respectfully
Jeremie

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

Greetings fellow Buckeye, You definitely got my attention with the word Cleveland. I too am building one of the "other 351s" for a roadster. Your engine build seems lot like mine. I'm still in the parts gathering phase with it. I'm planning a 393 inch lower RPM pump gas engine. (like 10:1 and 5800 rpm max. )
I am curious as to your compression/cam specs.

[burchfieldb]

Greetings fellow Buckeye, You definitely got my attention with the word Cleveland. I too am building one of the "other 351s" for a roadster. Your engine build seems lot like mine. I'm still in the parts gathering phase with it. I'm planning a 393 inch lower RPM pump gas engine. (like 10:1 and 5800 rpm max. )
I am curious as to your compression/cam specs.
This is th specific cam I am using, https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-retro-fit-hydraulic-roller-cam-ford-boss-351-351c-351m-400m-272-280.html

I calculated 11:1 compression ratio, which is a little higher than I wanted. I called Trickflow about it, and they said the aluminum heads can handle it all day long. Let me know if you have any other questions. I have a whole spreadsheet with all of the parts I ordered for it. It took me a lot of digging and calls to vendors to find what I needed.

This is it running. https://youtu.be/_bC8_Okxr2M

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

This is the specific cam I am using, https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-retro-fit-hydraulic-roller-cam-ford-boss-351-351c-351m-400m-272-280.html

I calculated 11:1 compression ratio, which is a little higher than I wanted. I called Trickflow about it, and they said the aluminum heads can handle it all day long. Let me know if you have any other questions. I have a whole spreadsheet with all of the parts I ordered for it. It took me a lot of digging and calls to vendors to find what I needed.

This is it running. https://youtu.be/_bC8_Okxr2M

Very good cam choice I think. Your engine sounds great. I have always been told that alum heads will tolerate a full point of compression more than iron heads due to it being able to absorb more heat and not have hot spots.

Please Keep us in the loop as what your fuel octane requirements are when road worthy.

[burchfieldb]

Very good cam choice I think. Your engine sounds great. I have always been told that alum heads will tolerate a full point of compression more than iron heads due to it being able to absorb more heat and not have hot spots.

Please Keep us in the loop as what your fuel octane requirements are when road worthy.

Sure thing. What type of heads are you using?

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

Sure thing. What type of heads are you using? I went with the raised port speedmaster heads. I bought the bare heads and using quality valve train parts. I've got more than a few weeks of work in my off time in these head castings. My Cam is a Howards hyd-Roller 232/240 @.050 .594/.611 lift 110 lobe separation. I haven't yet bought my rotating assembly. I'm shooting for 10.2 to 10.5 to 1 compression.

[burchfieldb]

I went with the raised port speedmaster heads. I bought the bare heads and using quality valve train parts. I've got more than a few weeks of work in my off time in these head castings. My Cam is a Howards hyd-Roller 232/240 @.050 .594/.611 lift 110 lobe separation. I haven't yet bought my rotating assembly. I'm shooting for 10.2 to 10.5 to 1 compression.

Nice! You will likely want some pistons with more dish than I have or you will be in the same boat. Although you may be alright, since I have 60cc chambers and you have 64cc. Let me know if you use the Kevco oil pain and studs for the mains. You have to get a particular ARP stud to attach the oil pickup to. That one was a bit of a bear to get right. I also did the TMeyers oil galley modification and cam bearings, with a high volume oil pump. The oil pressure at idle is 85 psi and 100 psi when giving it gas, both at the front and back of the oil gallies. If you still need a water pump, I have an extra one that is new and painted black with Eastwood ceramic engine paint. I couldn't use it with my serpentine kit. If you are interested, I can get you the details on it and cost.

[burchfieldb]

I was able to get some more time in the garage this weekend and managed to get the front suspension mocked up. I did use the Moog tie rod ends, they worked really well. I had a small issue with one of the lower ball studs spinning when putting the nut on, I end up chasing the threads and it went right on.

176328
176327

[burchfieldb]

It's been a while since I posted, mainly been working on items that are already well documented on the forum and waiting for hardware. I got most of it, except for the long M16 IRS bolts. I ended up buying them from Bel Metric, got tired of waiting. They have a really nice selection and good prices. I decided to cover the top of the engine bay with aluminum, like others have done. Was able to get a
blade for nonferrous metals that I could use on my track saw. It made short work of it and cut like butter. My plan is to use dimpple dies to form around the metal holes for the reservoirs to come up through. I also decided to add some strength to the firewall by backing it up with 3x1.5 inch aluminum channel. This will support the wiper motor, my mechanical throttle linkage, power distribution blocks and the harnesses.
179839
179840

[burchfieldb]

I have not had a chance to post in a while. Work has been super busy and I have been waiting on my hardware kit. Probably the second most challenging thing to have on backorder, next to not having a frame. I did receive it a couple of weeks ago and have been able to work on sheet metal panel installation. I had some free time on vacation and took some time to work on some interior concepts and I thought I would share, this is the leading one. Thinking of covering my Sparco seats in brown leather, having brown leather on the top of the transmission tunnel, and black leather on the dash and sides of the transmission tunnel. Will use heavy black thread for the stitching. Planning on making a mold and laying up the dash with fiberglass.


175769175770175767175771175768

Mocked up the dash today based on the CAD images. I am liking the results. Going to CNC the mold core and then lay it up with fiberglass.

180108
180109

[Skuzzy]

I like what you are doing there.

[burchfieldb]

I like what you are doing there.

Thanks

[burchfieldb]

Made some headway this weekend and was able to get the engine in and got the body back on. Although it looks like I am going to have the same issue as Scott, my air cleaner is also sitting to high.
181139
181138

Has anyone used this air cleaner from Holley?
181141

I also noticed that my oil filter is really close to the engine mount. Has anyone used the remote oil filter mount? I would be curious to hear about peoples experience with it?
181140

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

Made some headway this weekend and was able to get the engine in and got the body back on. Although it looks like I am going to have the same issue as Scott, my air cleaner is also sitting to high.

..........

I had honestly thought iImight get in the same spot. (Cleveland here as well. ) I thought maybe just something Just a bit bigger as in a "Boss 429 type" hood scoop?

I may in the same boat sometime in the future., so I have to ask What intake manifold are you running?? If you ever have the carb off please stick a straight edge off across the carb pad and get the measurements to the bottom ends F&R of the intake to block



I also noticed that my oil filter is really close to the engine mount. Has anyone used the remote oil filter mount? I would be curious to hear about peoples experience with it?


I've ran them on a few other vehicles, they are very nice lets you run the filter completely out of the way and horizontal for cleaner changes. Also lets you run the largest Ford filter the [FL-299 Motorcraft] = [Wix 51773[ = [Napa 1773](also a wix)

[burchfieldb]

I had honestly thought iImight get in the same spot. (Cleveland here as well. ) I thought maybe just something Just a bit bigger as in a "Boss 429 type" hood scoop?

I may in the same boat sometime in the future., so I have to ask What intake manifold are you running?? If you ever have the carb off please stick a straight edge off across the carb pad and get the measurements to the bottom ends F&R of the intake to block



I've ran them on a few other vehicles, they are very nice lets you run the filter completely out of the way and horizontal for cleaner changes. Also lets you run the largest Ford filter the [FL-299 Motorcraft] = [Wix 51773[ = [Napa 1773](also a wix)


I am running the Edlebrock 7564 manifold. Although I have since found that there is a shorter one, which may have helped the situation. https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-351-intake-manifold-for-ford-351-2v-cleveland-engine-2750.html. Although this one does not have the air gap and is more like the factory intake.

No plans to remove the efi throttle body, but I will see what measurements I can get.

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

I am running the Edlebrock 7564 manifold. Although I have since found that there is a shorter one, which may have helped the situation. https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-351-intake-manifold-for-ford-351-2v-cleveland-engine-2750.html. Although this one does not have the air gap and is more like the factory intake.

No plans to remove the efi throttle body, but I will see what measurements I can get.

I have a used Edlebrock 2750 intake. It needs cleaned up bit if you are interested. PM me if so.

[burchfieldb]

To add on to Cobra Daytona Build's aerodynamics work, I decided to tackle the back end and close off the wheel wells and the underside of the rear body. Right now I have done the cardboard/aluminum flashing templates and then will transfer this to aluminum panels. Let me know if anyone sees anything wrong with this, that I am not realizing?

188350
188351
188352

[burchfieldb]

More updates. I made some templates to close of the inside of the transmission tunnel. The plan is to use some low pressure polyurethane foam between the inner and outer panels to help with noise and heat.

189134
189135

I also decided to address the gas filler angle issue. I originally was looking at the Breeze locking cap, but wanted something less expensive and also something that changed the angle of the filler barb. I found a marine one on Amazon for $28 that has a 45 deg angle on the filler barb. This allows the tube to slip by the roll cage and go straight down to the tank filler neck elbow. I was able to disassemble the gas cap and chuck up the mount plate in the lathe, to cut off the straight barb, and make the hole larger for the new barb. I made a spacer to pull the filler up in the cap and to bring it further away from the roll cage bar. I put an o-ring around the filler barb and put one in a groove on the underside of the space, so gas can't leak down into the body.

189136
189137
189138
189139
189140
189141

[GT77]

Loving the clean up of the transmission tunnel. Well done! I am probably late to reply to this, but having attempted similar modifications in the transmission tunnel, the fill panels closest to to the seat belt mounts will interfere with the original inner aluminum panels. Also required bending a line in the original panel right behind that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189409&d=1693152485

[burchfieldb]

Cool, thanks for the heads up. Did you insulate between your panels or just leave an air gap?

[burchfieldb]

I have not had a chance to post in a while. Work has been super busy and I have been waiting on my hardware kit. Probably the second most challenging thing to have on backorder, next to not having a frame. I did receive it a couple of weeks ago and have been able to work on sheet metal panel installation. I had some free time on vacation and took some time to work on some interior concepts and I thought I would share, this is the leading one. Thinking of covering my Sparco seats in brown leather, having brown leather on the top of the transmission tunnel, and black leather on the dash and sides of the transmission tunnel. Will use heavy black thread for the stitching. Planning on making a mold and laying up the dash with fiberglass.


175769175770175767175771175768

Got the molds cut for the dash out of EPS foam and started laying up the fiberglass today. This is going to take some time to finish, not a quick process and super messy.

189434189435189436

[GT77]

Not yet implemented, but planning on foil backed foam cut to width/taper with some lines on silicone adhesive on both sides. I have some pieces leftover from another project (roof on the house) that are "fire-rated". Don't know if it really makes a difference. The foil does seem to add some R value and hopefully with the both sides of the paneling "loosely" connected via the adhesive, it will deaden the drum effect the panels have with minimal weight. I looked at the spray stuff, but decided against it (at least currently) due possible expansion of the panels (I know there are low pressure options) and the mess it makes if you ever have to tear into it. However, as I don't have the other fill trimmed yet, we will see how much of an exercise in frustration that leads to...

-Thomas

[burchfieldb]

Got the dash parts molded in fiberglass and demolded. Need to do some finish work next to smooth out the rough surface left by the eps foam mold.

189766189767

[burchfieldb]

I was able to make some more progress on the dash this weekend. Got it rough sanded, fit, and mounted in the car. Now that this is done, I will finsh sanding it, and cover it with leather.

189954189955

[q4stix]

I like the look you're doing with the dash. Much less of a kit look too
Keep posting because it's giving me more ideas (as if I needed more ideas on my build haha)

[burchfieldb]

Thanks! Yeah, this forum can be a double edge sword, I continue to come across new things to spend money on. :D

[rhk118]

Thanks! Yeah, this forum can be a double edge sword, I continue to come across new things to spend money on. :D

Haha so true. That is some seriously impressive work on the dash!

[burchfieldb]

Thanks. I probably have 50 hrs in laying it up and making the molds. Fortunately I have access to a CNC router at work, so that made short work of cutting the molds.

[burchfieldb]

With the passing of Russ, I decided to bulid my own column mounted turn signal. Since at the time there was not another alternative. I have been chipping away at this for several months when I have found time in between family stuff after work. I used the kit that Speedway sells and only ended up using the turn signal part of it.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Self-Cancelling-Turn-Signal-Retrofit-Kit-for-Hot-Rod-Columns,418733.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAjwseSoBhBXEiwA9iZtxhBsn_FPeMPxvLQW6uea-MOM2KO8bPrOhs8XumMj5np2jxfyztUQqxoCRj0QAvD_BwE

I had to increase the length of the FFR provided steering shaft, to clear my dash. So I decided to machine an extension, tap the end of it, and the end of the FFR shaft. I used a long set screw to fasten the two together and will weld the two togther, once I verify everything is aligned. I also machined a column cover tube and mount, which slides into the back of the turn signal switch. This will hide all of the wires as well. The mount plate for the tube replaces the two spacers, provided in the kit, that go in between the steering shaft bearing and the frame of the car.

190716
190711
190715

I am using the slim NRG quick release steering wheel mount, so I machined a new adapter to go between the turn signal switch and the quick release.

190709
190710

This also made it possible to use a 6 hole cover for mounting the steering wheel, since I could place the mounting holes where I wanted them and not have to work around the FFR holes in their adapter. I picked this one up from Ebay.

190712

The center was originally a horn, but it didn't fit in the FFR steering wheel hole, so I cut off the back side of the button and glued the remaining plastic parts together.

For the turn signal stock, I cut the one off of the VW switch, added some JB Weld to fill in the cavity, and then drilled a hole for the new stock. I machined the new stock out of aluminum and used a piece of stainless tubing for the rod. I tapped the end of the aluminum and added a button. This will be used for high and low beams. I got the button from Amazon. It is really nice and has a stainless housing.

190717
190713

This is how everything turned out mounted in the car.

190714

Once I finalize fitment for everthing, I will cleanup any blemishes and paint.

[burchfieldb]

I have been working on putting a second skin of sheetmetal on the frame. The plan is to spray in urethane foam to help with noise and heat. This will give me at least an inch thickness. This also gives me a decent amount of addition space below the console to route and mount things.

192586

192588

I also have been working on closing off the underside of the back end and closing off the rear wheel wheels.

192587

Once everything is fit, I will spray it with Upol under coating. Hopefully this is worth the investment in time, it takes a while to do all this.

[rhk118]

Brent - that is an impressive amount of work and looks great!

[burchfieldb]

Brent - that is an impressive amount of work and looks great!

Thanks. I am hoping that closing off the rear end doesn't cause any issues at speed. I was doing some research on the spray foam and it apparently causes the sheetmetal to warp, so I may have to put some sort of flexible barrier on the sheetmetal before spraying it in.

[burchfieldb]

I was asked how I modified the Forte gas pedal to use the FFR supplied pedal pad. Here are some pictures of it. I cut off the pedal pad, drilled a hole for the pivot, and used the arm to support the return spring. This will get painted black when I am done with fabricating everthing. I also bent the arm some to get the angle right.

192633
192634

[burchfieldb]

The never ending project of sheetmetal continues. ;) I got the back wall of the cockpit closed in and the underside of the trunk. Also made a new firewall that is better fitting. Kind of hard to see.

192657
192656
192655

[burchfieldb]

I picked up this driveshaft safety hoop from Summit, it is really beefy, and well made. Comes with grade 8 hardware and bolts right to the TKX. No need for any welding or drilling more holes in the frame. It does add some thickness to the mount, but I have to make a spacer anyways.

Stifflers Suspension Driveshaft Safety Loops DSL-M02

193473
193472

[Namrups]

Being canatlevered off the transmission mount, I wonder how much vibration there will be and how much clearance with the crossmembers. I am very interested with this setup so keep us updated!

[burchfieldb]

I got some more time in the garage and was able to get the inside skin done on the drivers footbox. This will give me 1-1.5 inches of air gap from the engine bay. I also added a pocket for a foot rest on the outside wall. All of this will get covered with capet when done and I plan to seal any gaps with seam sealer.

193990
193991

In preparation for powder coating the frame, I modifed the frame so that I could run my brake bias cable out the right side of the pedal box, through the engine bay, and back into the car.

193994

I found these universal rubber grommets on that jungle website. They fit really well around the cable and should provide a fair amount of room for play.

193995
193996
193997
193998

Next up is the passager side, it is mostly done, but I need to finish trimming out the pocket for the foot rest.

[burchfieldb]

I made some more progress on interior stuff this weekend. I constructed some panels to close off under the dash in front of the foot boxes and made a one piece cover for the top of the transmission tunnel. I plan on using some sentra to cap the edges of the transmission tunnel and to cover the sides of the transmission tunnel. All of these panels will be covered with leather when done.

194223
194224

I have also done some layout work on the lower dash section for the efi screen and toggle switches. The text and temp controls will be backlit through white translucent acrylic. The housing will be 3D printed out of glass filled nylon and then painted black with Gunkote.

194225
194226

I plan on using a linear pot for the temp control and a 4 postion linear switch for the fan speed. I will custom machine the knobs to match the other knobs in the car. I should be able to make some progress on the dash controls while waiting on the frame to be powder coated.

[jgray]

Your dash looks great. Very nice work! Your double skin work wiht the aluminum sheeting is impressive - what a lot of work! I had wondered about doing something similar but much less extensive than what you are doing. But have chosen not to, at least for now. I've taken my own approach to the dash and made a fiberglass box to cover my fuse box - but it is all much less extensive than what your are doing. Very impressed!

[burchfieldb]

Your dash looks great. Very nice work! Your double skin work wiht the aluminum sheeting is impressive - what a lot of work! I had wondered about doing something similar but much less extensive than what you are doing. But have chosen not to, at least for now. I've taken my own approach to the dash and made a fiberglass box to cover my fuse box - but it is all much less extensive than what your are doing. Very impressed!

Thanks! The Harbor Freight box brake makes easy work of it. Had to make lots of cardboard floor protector templates before actually cutting metal. Using a track saw with a non ferrous blade makes short work of the cuts and makes them clean.

[burchfieldb]

Got one of the switches mocked up and tested the backlighting. This is 3D printed out of nylon and then I laser cut some translucent white acrylic, laser cut black vinyl for the text and put that on the white acrylic, and then there is a laser cut piece of clear acrylic to protect the vinyl. I will have some led's mounted to a plate in the back that screws on, waiting for those to come from Digikey. These will get painted black with Gunkote. I used the Carling switches that others have used on the forum. Lots of options for switch configurations and they have a collar to hide the threads. Gives it a nice finished look. The top bezel and lower bezel will form a clamshell through holes in the dash and threading the nut over the switch will hold it all in place. I will post more details as they develop.

194425
194427
194426

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194428&d=1705101537

[jgray]

Your work is impressive Brent. The 3D rendering is very cool and your use of a 3D printer and laser cut is nice work. You sure have a lot of great tools and are putting them to good use. The outcome will be quite unique with all the double skin work you are doing too
Do you know of a source for bezels for the regular switches that FFR provides? I would like something simple to just hide the threads. I’ve also been looking at various forms of labels but with my layout of switches on my custom switch panel it could look to busy. I’ll post some pictures of the panel soon. But I do know I would like to cover the threads

[burchfieldb]

Your work is impressive Brent. The 3D rendering is very cool and your use of a 3D printer and laser cut is nice work. You sure have a lot of great tools and are putting them to good use. The outcome will be quite unique with all the double skin work you are doing too
Do you know of a source for bezels for the regular switches that FFR provides? I would like something simple to just hide the threads. I’ve also been looking at various forms of labels but with my layout of switches on my custom switch panel it could look to busy. I’ll post some pictures of the panel soon. But I do know I would like to cover the threads

Thanks! I do product development for a living and have a lot of toys at work that I have access to. I was looking at this site before I found these switches. They have several options at a good price.

https://lovemyswitches.com/search.php?search_query=Dress%20nut

If you google decorative toggle switch nut you will find more. I would love to see what you have for your dash layout.

[rhk118]

Thanks! I do product development for a living and have a lot of toys at work that I have access to. I was looking at this site before I found these switches. They have several options at a good price.

https://lovemyswitches.com/search.php?search_query=Dress%20nut

If you google decorative toggle switch nut you will find more. I would love to see what you have for your dash layout.

Wow, love that site Brent, it's totally nuts! :p ...totally off topic but I had found this site: newwiremarine.com (https://newwiremarine.com/custom-marine-switch-panels/) and they will make custom switch panels and have all marine-grade switches, distribution blocks/fuse panels and they sell stainless switch nuts. I think I like the black ones on the site you found better.

[burchfieldb]

Wow, love that site Brent, it's totally nuts! :p ...totally off topic but I had found this site: newwiremarine.com (https://newwiremarine.com/custom-marine-switch-panels/) and they will make custom switch panels and have all marine-grade switches, distribution blocks/fuse panels and they sell stainless switch nuts. I think I like the black ones on the site you found better.

That is a cool site. I like the custom panel configurator and the different custom switch and button options. I have been looking for different options for a fused relay holder and came across this Bussman holder that GT_Rich used. I still need to determine how many relays I am going to need. It looks like new wire has 2 relay blocks, I wonder if they have ones with more. I am open to other options if you know of other larger format ones. I think I will need at least 6. I really am not a fan of the prewired relay sockets, I have had issues in the past with the socket connections not being good.

https://racespeconline.com/products/fused-relay-box-frb?variant=14856872329259&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAiAvoqsBhB9EiwA9XTWGZBr2pMxQlfu73dE9YFi f5FLZ34K57x6mjLotI285FyP6p8zflGaDBoCYDEQAvD_BwE

[GT77]

If it helps, I am using GEP Power Products Relay holders which are very similar to the Eaton Bussmann unit you are considering. I have used the Eaton Bussmann RTMR series on other projects and they are fine units. The covers on them are very tall (designed to allow the tall ISO 280 (mini blade) style circuit breakers. For me the major limitations of the Bussman are 1) the cover height and 2) while the numbering is really nice, they don't really provide a "compact" solution as there is a lot of space between fuses and relays and you are limited that 5 relay 10 fuse configuration (note there is a much larger Bussman unit that allows 10 relays and 40 fuses - but previous experience wiring other vehicles is I like to add the relay holder closer to where it will be used versus a central "single" power distribution - the wiring bundles become more of a pain to route with the centralized approach). I like the GEP PDMs as they come in 12/24/48/72/96 cavity variants (though only 48/72/96 variants have the through panel mounting style. the 12/24 variants the mount is in the cap which can be both good and bad depending on where you want to locate them). I would also recommend looking at using ISO280 ultra micro relays (shown in the picture below). They only use 4 cavities (the normal micro 280 relays use 6) and come in 20A and 30A variants. With the more flexible configuration in the GEP sockets, you can quickly get more relays into the same space (which I have found is normally more the problem over total amperage capacity). Both the Eaton Bussman and the GEP use Metri Pak 280 hardware though the Bussman use tangless 280 terminals and the GEP are tanged IIRC (be careful when buying to get the right style). The connector seals are the same. GEP does offer Terminal Position Assurance (TPA's) that guarantee that the terminals won't come out - I have never used these as I have found the already supplied latches in the 280 terminals good enough. 280 terminals are very easy to de-pin if you ever want to change the contact (or like me, made a few mistakes with the pin positions the first time you wired them :) )

I am planning on using a 72 position unit for the engine related fuse/relays and a 96 position unit for everything else on my coupe build (and I have a leftover 24 position that I may end up using if necessary)

-Thomas

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194522&d=1705273701
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194521&d=1705273701

[GT77]

Loving the custom work on the dash - it looks fantastic! The switch lights are very clean! One other comment on the above, LittelFuse also makes a larger format PDMs (18 and 60 cavity) that you may want to look at for options (I have never used them, but they seem very similar to GEP/Bussman)

[burchfieldb]

Loving the custom work on the dash - it looks fantastic! The switch lights are very clean! One other comment on the above, LittelFuse also makes a larger format PDMs (18 and 60 cavity) that you may want to look at for options (I have never used them, but they seem very similar to GEP/Bussman)

Thanks, this is super helpful. Where do you usually buy them from? How far are you on your build?

- Brent

[GT77]

Waytek, I will PM you with more details. My build is a bit behind yours at this point - you have been making solid progress (well done!). It would help if I stopped modifying everything. :) However, my build thread is very out of date. Perhaps soon I will take some time to update with some of the various diversions. Keep up the good work!

-Thomas

[burchfieldb]

I decided to address the side bars of the roll cage. It was just too close to my head when sitting in the car. So I decided to cut them out, make new ones with a slight arc bending outward to give more head clearance, and then moved them up some.

194622
194624

View of the arc.
194623

[burchfieldb]

Made some more progress today. Mounted the sun visors that I made using some Scott Drake visor rods, some hard board, a piece of stainless that I bent around the rod, and binding post to hold the hardboard to the stainless.

194753194754194755
194756194757

I will finish welding out the visor frame mount brackets tomorrow. I plan on 3D printing some covers to go over the visor mount brackets. I also closed off the ends of all the open frame tubes. There were 14 in all.

194760

Need to weld and grind the seams on the hinges and then drop everything off to the powder coater tomorrow afternoon.

[burchfieldb]

Got the frame back from powder coating today. It turned out really nice. For anyone in the Columbus Ohio area, Columbus Powder Coat does really good work.

195407

[burchfieldb]

Started tackling the body this weekend and decided to build a body buck that moves up and down with a strap wench. This should make it easier to access different areas at a good standing height.

199303199304199301199302

[Namrups]

Cant view pics.

[burchfieldb]

That was odd, see if you can see them now.

[Skuzzy]

Nice buck.

[Namrups]

That was odd, see if you can see them now.

good to go.

[burchfieldb]

My OCD kicked in and I spent the last 4 days grinding off the parting lines from the castings, deburring sheet metal brackets, masking, sand blasting, unmasking, degreasing, masking again for paint, degreasing, and then painting. I painted all of the bushings and hood alignment plates with a silver metallic Gun-Kote from KG Industries. It is a hard abrasion and corrosion resistant ceramic coating, it is about a .0003 to .0004 of an inch thick coating, and you can apply it directly to metal without a primer. It won't scratch and is resistant to brake fluid and other chemicals.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199538&d=1716080521

I coated the other castings and sheet metal brackets with Cerakote's black velvet ceramic coating and it matches the color and sheen of the FFR black powder coating on the control arms. This is an air cure coating, where as the Gun-Kote needs to be baked at 180 deg for 1 hour. Both are one part coatings, so you do not need to add a hardener. For the Gun-Kote you do have to add a temperature lowering additive for the Gun-Kote to get it down to 180 degs, or you have to cure at 300 deg. Here are some photos of the painted parts in the booth.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199528&d=1716080494

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199529&d=1716080494

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199530&d=1716080494

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199531&d=1716080494

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199537&d=1716080512

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199536&d=1716080512

[burchfieldb]

Cont.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199533&d=1716080512

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199534&d=1716080512

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199535&d=1716080512

The other benefit to the coating is that it acts as a lubricant and allows metal parts to slide easily against other coated parts. So this should help with the emergency brake parts.

I sand blasted off the black zinc and black oxide coatings that was on any of the parts and recoated them with the ceramic coating, since it is super corrosion resistant and can withstand 500-1000 hours of salt spray, versus the 120 hours max for the black zinc.

I have plans for doing more ceramic coating on all of the sheet metal in the engine bay and will post pictures once I get those done, these will be done in a black chrome Gun-Kote. Next up is to fiberglass in flanges to mount the wheel well liners and some body work.

[JimStone]

That's an interesting coating. Kind of sounds like the perfect coating actually, especially if you don't need to bake it.

I'm powder coating smaller items in an old kitchen oven, but no way could I fit any body panels.

Do you have experience with this coating previously? How does it hold up?

[burchfieldb]

That's an interesting coating. Kind of sounds like the perfect coating actually, especially if you don't need to bake it.

I'm powder coating smaller items in an old kitchen oven, but no way could I fit any body panels.
Do you have experience with this coating previously? How does it hold up?

Yeah, it is what people use on guns to protect the surface and make parts slide together without actual lubricant. This is from the Gun Kote site and Cerakote has similar information:

"Gun Kote has a pencil hardness of 9H, will provide a 180-degree bend without fracturing and exhibits excellent impact resistance, lubricity (meets military dry firing specifications), heat dissipation, chemical resistance, corrosion protection, durability, scratch resistance and will not attract dirt or dust."

You do need to make sure to follow all of the surface prep and application instructions or the coating will not perform. You can also use it on plastic parts to give them a good protective coating. Cerakote has a high gloss clear as well, that I am going to try on the polished aluminum parts of the car. I talked with them on the phone and they said you can apply it directly to polished aluminum.

https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/MC-5100/cerakote-clear-aluminum

My coworkers have used these coatings for years on stuff and have not seen any issues. It is not completely bullet proof, but is extremely durable.

[burchfieldb]

Making some more headway coating the aluminum panels that I made to make a second skin on the underside of the car and for the rear wheel well liners. I decided to coat all of them with Raptor liner to help with noise deadening and protecting the panels. I blasted all of the panels with 100 grit aluminum oxide, cleaned them in a bath of Simple Green, and then wiped them down with wax and grease remover. The photo below shows them hanging in the booth afterwards and before priming.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200547&d=1717976803

I then primed everything with Raptor Primer, this is what U-pol recommends for surface prep. It is a 2 part primer and is really easy to apply with an HVLP gun. This photo is after the primer is applied.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200546&d=1717976803

If I had to do it over, I would use a reducer when mixing the Raptor Liner, and spray it out of an HVLP gun. The finish out of the schultz spray gun is pretty rough, doesn't spray real consistent, and goes everywhere. Below is the final finished product. I will do this for the front wheel well liners that you will see, the others are all hidden under the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200545&d=1717976803

I will say the Raptor Liner is easy to mix and spray.

[edwardb]

Maybe you know UPOL sells a "professional" gun (#UP4880) that's an upgrade over their standard schutz spray gun. After having similar experience as yours with the schutz, I picked up their professional gun for my most recent build. With some reducer definitely sprays out to a better finish and is more adjustable. I'm a little concerned about the thickness you're adding to those parts. Hope they go together OK for you. A little late, but I see multiple builds where guys are adding coatings on the bottom of their builds for protection, etc. My Coupe has been driven multiple seasons and 7,000 miles now. The powder coating on the bottom still looks like brand new when cleaned. I have a couple scratches from a speed bump incident (grrr) but nothing is going to help that. I count on the insulation and carpet on the inside to provide the necessary sound and heat protection. Which it does.

[burchfieldb]

Maybe you know UPOL sells a "professional" gun (#UP4880) that's an upgrade over their standard schutz spray gun. After having similar experience as yours with the schutz, I picked up their professional gun for my most recent build. With some reducer definitely sprays out to a better finish and is more adjustable. I'm a little concerned about the thickness you're adding to those parts. Hope they go together OK for you. A little late, but I see multiple builds where guys are adding coatings on the bottom of their builds for protection, etc. My Coupe has been driven multiple seasons and 7,000 miles now. The powder coating on the bottom still looks like brand new when cleaned. I have a couple scratches from a speed bump incident (grrr) but nothing is going to help that. I count on the insulation and carpet on the inside to provide the necessary sound and heat protection. Which it does.

Thanks Paul. I was unaware of the upgraded gun. This one came with the kit. We will see how things end up fitting. Worst case, I may have to do a little sanding. This is more for reducing heat and sound, and less about frame protection.

[burchfieldb]

Maybe you know UPOL sells a "professional" gun (#UP4880) that's an upgrade over their standard schutz spray gun. After having similar experience as yours with the schutz, I picked up their professional gun for my most recent build. With some reducer definitely sprays out to a better finish and is more adjustable. I'm a little concerned about the thickness you're adding to those parts. Hope they go together OK for you. A little late, but I see multiple builds where guys are adding coatings on the bottom of their builds for protection, etc. My Coupe has been driven multiple seasons and 7,000 miles now. The powder coating on the bottom still looks like brand new when cleaned. I have a couple scratches from a speed bump incident (grrr) but nothing is going to help that. I count on the insulation and carpet on the inside to provide the necessary sound and heat protection. Which it does.

Do you have any photos of the pattern you were able to achieve with the pro gun?

[burchfieldb]

It has been a while since my last update. My wife was diagnosed with breast cancer, so I needed to divert my attention to making sure she has the support she needs. Fortunately they caught it early and it had not spread too far. Couple of surgeries later and now waiting to get all of the pieces lined up for radiation. The little bit of time I have to work is a good diversion to keep my mind off of things.

I have been working on the dash for a while and got the center console assembled with the painted parts and toggle switches. The dash panel is made out of black acrylic right now until I get everything finalize on it and then it will get cut out of aluminum.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204963&d=1728253320

This is the console panel on the bench with it lit up. I am waiting to put the EFI screen in the middle until I get the console sheet metal part painted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204964&d=1728253320

The vents in the dash are not painted yet, but the ones on the side console are painted with Cerakote and work well. They are fully adjustable by rotating the ball and have a friction mechanism behind the ball to keep them at the adjusted angle. Eventually they will be screwed in with some 4-40s, once I work through the side panel skins. All of these parts are 3D printed out of nylon, so they won't have any issues with the heat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204962&d=1728253320

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204965&d=1728253320

I have also been working through the electrical and decided to abandon the FFR provided fuse panel. Some of the wires are undersized, need to be a larger gauge, and I wanted to clean up the harness. The main ones for me are the power supply for the in-tank Holley electric fuel pump and I wanted to increase the gauge for the cooling fan incase I want to upgrade it in the future. I also need to add several more relays and fuses. With space at a premium in the dash, I decided to move to a GEP PDM, which was recommended by another user, GT77. In doing so I had to relocate the flashers, so I 3D printed a new holder for those and will connect the wires with quick disconnects. These will be located in a pocket hidden up under the dash, so that they are still accessible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204972&d=1728257094

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204973&d=1728257094

I will also have the PDM mounted flush under the dash so that it is hidden, but still accessible. This will be located on the passenger side.

Next up will be tackling the sound deadening and insulation.

[JimStone]

I'm sorry to hear about your wife's health scare. Best wishes to her for a successful treatment and speedy recovery.


I love all the custom touches on your car. Very unique and cool

[burchfieldb]

I was wanting to add some indicator lights so that I don't have to watch the gauges as closely. I ended up making one that matches my set of Nisonger gauges. I purchased the trim ring and glass from Nisonger. I 3D printed the housing and made the indicator inserts with the same process that I used for the toggle switch controls. I will use a voltage comparator for the alternator and fuel level monitoring and use switch senders for the temp and pressure. The cross bar will be painted black to match the other guages.

206746206747206748

[burchfieldb]

I have made some more progress, though it has all only been electrical. Changing to the PDM from the FFR fuse panel has been a lot of work, but I think it is turning out well being able to have the fuses and relays in one place that is accessible from below the dash. I still have a lot of cleaning up to do with the wires, taping them into discrete harnesses, putting loom around them, and then attaching the harnesses to the dash with cable harness clamps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209632&d=1737939699

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209635&d=1737939699

I have not cut the access hole in the dash or mounted the sheet metal support frame for the PDM, that will happen soon. I still have more switches to wire for the center console panel and a few more relays to add.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209633&d=1737939699

The PDM also comes with a nice cover that seals the box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209634&d=1737939699

I plan on painting the top of the cover and then laser etching the location labels into the paint for the fuses and relays.

[burchfieldb]

I was looking around on the internet and could not find any backup lights that I liked and matched the aesthetics of the FFR supplied brake lights. So I decided to make my own. I machined the housings out of aluminum and cast clear urethane lenses for them. I still need to machine the trim ring out of aluminum, but it is shown as a 3D printed part. It is also a little smaller than the brake light to get the proportions to look right on the back of the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210957&d=1740715664

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210959&d=1740715751

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210958&d=1740715664

[JimStone]

Geez, that's impressive

When they said "build your own car", you really took that to heart

[burchfieldb]

Thanks Jim. I really enjoy the process of figuring things out and building the solution. Following your build, I believe you suffer from the same affliction as I do. ;)

[PNWTim]

More updates. I made some templates to close of the inside of the transmission tunnel. The plan is to use some low pressure polyurethane foam between the inner and outer panels to help with noise and heat.

189134
189135

I also decided to address the gas filler angle issue. I originally was looking at the Breeze locking cap, but wanted something less expensive and also something that changed the angle of the filler barb. I found a marine one on Amazon for $28 that has a 45 deg angle on the filler barb. This allows the tube to slip by the roll cage and go straight down to the tank filler neck elbow. I was able to disassemble the gas cap and chuck up the mount plate in the lathe, to cut off the straight barb, and make the hole larger for the new barb. I made a spacer to pull the filler up in the cap and to bring it further away from the roll cage bar. I put an o-ring around the filler barb and put one in a groove on the underside of the space, so gas can't leak down into the body.

189136
189137
189138
189139
189140
189141

Brent - I was just reviewing this particular post and looking for a little clarification. Is the filler tube/neck/cap frame interference a know issue? I guess I had not stumbled across this as yet and since I removed my body almost immediately this would be an issue I would cross pretty far down the road. Without looking at it I am guessing the existing filler neck is straight which puts the cut and extended pipe into the framework?

[burchfieldb]

Yeah, it makes it really hard to route the semi-flexible hose. I plan on making one length of tube from the tank to the filler neck and connecting with a short coupler.

[Smiley]

If you see items you like in my build, you can find some of them on my site and if it is not on there I can likely make it made for you.

Will you be making the transmission tunnel and floor bottom panels available?

[burchfieldb]

Will you be making the transmission tunnel and floor bottom panels available?

Are you referring to the outside second skin panels that I made?

[Smiley]

Are you referring to the outside second skin panels that I made?

Yes, I am going to do the same, and why reinvent the wheel?

Did you use RamBoard for your templates?

[burchfieldb]

Yes, I am going to do the same, and why reinvent the wheel?

Did you use RamBoard for your templates?

I did. I was planning on some of the panels, but you are now the second person that has asked for them, so I probably should add it to the list.

[Smiley]

Started tackling the body this weekend and decided to build a body buck that moves up and down with a strap wench. This should make it easier to access different areas at a good standing height.

199303199304199301199302
Brent, do you have any drawings of your adjustable buck?

[burchfieldb]

I don't, but I can add some more photos and dimensions.

[Smiley]

I don't, but I can add some more photos and dimensions.

That would be great, thanks.

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

To the OP:
Have you test fitted headers to see how they fit yet??

[burchfieldb]

Are you referring to headers for my Cleveland?

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

Are you referring to headers for my Cleveland?

Yes I too have a Great Cleveland.

[burchfieldb]

Yes I too have a Great Cleveland.

Got it. I have had a bunch of questions regarding header fitment with different engines for footbox extensions that I sell so I was not sure. I am planning on making custom headers for mine.

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

Got it. I have had a bunch of questions regarding header fitment with different engines for footbox extensions that I sell so I was not sure. I am planning on making custom headers for mine.

I just found out tonight that the Sanderson FC1 header (pass side) hits the energy suspension brand (#4.1122G) engine mount Both the plate with the big stud(about 5/8th interfenence) and hits about 1/8th of and inch the plate that bolts to the block.
I'm gonna look for a skinnier mount before i go hacking on these.

[burchfieldb]

I just found out tonight that the Sanderson FC1 header (pass side) hits the energy suspension brand (#4.1122G) engine mount Both the plate with the big stud(about 5/8th interfenence) and hits about 1/8th of and inch the plate that bolts to the block.
I'm gonna look for a skinnier mount before i go hacking on these.
Those headers aren't symmetric either, right? I know Gas N will make some custom, but they come with a price, but not much more than his standard ones.

[burchfieldb]

That would be great, thanks.

Here are some photos with dimensions. Let me know if you need anything specific other than these.

213837213838213839213840213841
213842213843213844213845213846

[burchfieldb]

213847213848213849

[Skuzzy]

Hehe, you are like me. Overkill is just Tuesday. :D

[burchfieldb]

Yep, then you only have to do it once! ;)

[Smiley]

Thanks for the pictures, I may steal parts of that.

[burchfieldb]

Thanks for the pictures, I may steal parts of that.

No problem, let me knownif you need anymore details.

[burchfieldb]

I made some billet aluminum door pocket bezels and mocked them up in preparation for posting them for sale on the website. This is a basic door card that I made to show how the polished option will look, there is also a paint ready option.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216302&d=1752434807

I also used some black auto upholstery felt to line the inside of the door pocket and makes it soft to touch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216303&d=1752434807

[burchfieldb]

Alright, finally have been back at it. I decided I was done fighting with the rear floor panel that always scratches up the powder coat when trying to put it in or out. So I sheared it down the middle and then cut the front corners at 45s so that the two halves will easily slide in now. I will put a piece in the middle to connect them.

224814

I made a custom radiator overflow tank with some square aluminum tubing and plate. I cut off the top of the FFR provided reservoir so that the fill cap matched the other reservoirs.

224816

224815

I also have been working on the dash and transmission tunnel. I made some trim pieces for the corners of the transmission tunnel and 3D printed some test fit pieces. These will get printed out of polycarbonate and then upholstered in leather. The center of the transmission tunnel and the face of the dash will be painted with Cerakote.

224819

224818

224817

Brakes are in process now, then the engine install, and custom headers for the Cleveland.

[burchfieldb]

One other item I have been working on is the heated and cooled seats. The seats have air bladders with white spacer mesh material inside. The bladder gets connected to the Vintage Air blower.

224821

It will be under the leather seat upholstery and the spacer mesh acts like foam but does not cutoff air flow. The seats will have metal grommets like the GT40 seats.

224822

224823

There will be a small hole centered in each grommet that goes through the bladder and allows air to blow through. This video shows the bladder expanding from the fan blower, since there are no holes in the bladder yet.


https://youtu.be/GPj8GIFS2t4?si=SY-qxyd3h5hJeX_H

[JimStone]

Awesome original ideas and execution Brent, as usual.

Those seat coolers are very nifty, and in my opinion will be more useful than heated seats (also much more involved to create, it appears).

Keep up th good work. And thank you being a great supporter of the community by allowing us to share in your innovations

[burchfieldb]

Awesome original ideas and execution Brent, as usual.

Those seat coolers are very nifty, and in my opinion will be more useful than heated seats (also much more involved to create, it appears).

Keep up th good work. And thank you being a great supporter of the community by allowing us to share in your innovations

Thanks Jim. That is the great thing about this forum with everyone having thier unique vision for what they want to build and how to do it. I have learned a lot from it.

[Skuzzy]

I am taking a different approach to cooling the seats. I decided to use the GT40 "holes" like you and have them sealed with mesh. Then have the upholsterer put holes through the foam so air can come all the way through. Then mount a 140mm fan to the back of the seat and have it automatically controlled just to blow cabin air through the GT40 holes.

Not as elegant as your approach, but I think it will work.

[JTG]

Brent, this is all amazing I love what you're doing! The cooled seats are a great idea and not something we had considered yet.
Everything you're doing with this car has inspired me with our build. Inspired me to do what you ask? Not a clue... but I'm inspired!! :D

Can't wait to see this all come together in a finished car.

[burchfieldb]

I am taking a different approach to cooling the seats. I decided to use the GT40 "holes" like you and have them sealed with mesh. Then have the upholsterer put holes through the foam so air can come all the way through. Then mount a 140mm fan to the back of the seat and have it automatically controlled just to blow cabin air through the GT40 holes.

Not as elegant as your approach, but I think it will work.

Seems like it may work if there is enough CFM. Is there a duct or is it like a suspension seat?

[burchfieldb]

Brent, this is all amazing I love what you're doing! The cooled seats are a great idea and not something we had considered yet.
Everything you're doing with this car has inspired me with our build. Inspired me to do what you ask? Not a clue... but I'm inspired!! :D

Can't wait to see this all come together in a finished car.

Thanks! Don't worry, the ideas will eventually make thier way through. This has been brewing in my head for about 5 years. Lots a 3D CAD development early on to play around with ideas and to see how things would look.

[AaronR]

Brent! Your dash is absolutely epic. I love what you did with it.

I noticed you have it running under the body where it meets the window. I've seen some back and forth with folks going under or over for different reasons. Did you consider building it out to go over the fiberglass body at all before you took it under? If so, what made you decide to go the way you did? This is something I've been thinking about more than I probably should to be honest. I love how your dash turned out. Very cool.

[burchfieldb]

Brent! Your dash is absolutely epic. I love what you did with it.

I noticed you have it running under the body where it meets the window. I've seen some back and forth with folks going under or over for different reasons. Did you consider building it out to go over the fiberglass body at all before you took it under? If so, what made you decide to go the way you did? This is something I've been thinking about more than I probably should to be honest. I love how your dash turned out. Very cool.

Thanks, right now it is sitting below until I get the body trimmed. The dash has a recessed lip on the front edge that tucks under the body and allows the top of the dash to sit flush with the body.

[Skuzzy]

Seems like it may work if there is enough CFM. Is there a duct or is it like a suspension seat?

Using standoffs to hold the fan mounting approximately 1" off the back surface of the seat. I am taking sheet ABS and making the cover to go around the fan and attach to the seat. Drill 1" holes through the back of the seat and use compression PVC tubes to connect from the back of the seat to the GT40 rings. For the bottom of the seat, I am incorporating ABS channels to the openings.

The compression PVC tube has enough give to not be noticeable when you sit in the seat. I am using the standard Cobra seat FF supplied. I am having the upholsterer replace the foam in the seat with different densities of foam to provide better support.

I had thought about taking thin strand copper wire and run it through the foam and attach to the small ducts, but decided against it. It would have provided better thermal transfer, but I think the wire would damage the foam, over time.

Thinking about it, the Kirkey seats would be easier to implement this modification.

[burchfieldb]

Using standoffs to hold the fan mounting approximately 1" off the back surface of the seat. I am taking sheet ABS and making the cover to go around the fan and attach to the seat. Drill 1" holes through the back of the seat and use compression PVC tubes to connect from the back of the seat to the GT40 rings. For the bottom of the seat, I am incorporating ABS channels to the openings.

The compression PVC tube has enough give to not be noticeable when you sit in the seat. I am using the standard Cobra seat FF supplied. I am having the upholsterer replace the foam in the seat with different densities of foam to provide better support.

I had thought about taking thin strand copper wire and run it through the foam and attach to the small ducts, but decided against it. It would have provided better thermal transfer, but I think the wire would damage the foam, over time.

Thinking about it, the Kirkey seats would be easier to implement this modification.

Nice, do you have photos?

[Skuzzy]

Nice, do you have photos?

Seats are still at the upholsterer. Waiting on material. I opted to cover the seats in black and gray sileather, which had to be ordered. When I get ready to put it all together, I'll post pics.

[burchfieldb]

Seats are still at the upholsterer. Waiting on material. I opted to cover the seats in black and gray sileather, which had to be ordered. When I get ready to put it all together, I'll post pics.

Cool, looking forward to seeing them. I am a ways out from upholstery.

[burchfieldb]

This information plaque has been in the works for several years, excited to see it coming together.

224907

224908

224909

Also these polished engraved stainless door sills will be available shortly. Waiting on more to come back from the polisher.

224910

224911

[Skuzzy]

I made an information plaque for my car as well. I used black anodized aluminum and laser etched it. Pics, once it is mounted.

I like the way you mounted yours. Nice!

[Papa]

Brent,

Those polished Daytona script door sills look amazing! On my list ...

Dave