View Full Version : 4 into 4 vs J pipes
egchewy79
10-08-2022, 12:38 PM
I have a 289 Hipo, 30-over but stock otherwise.
shorty headers and J pipes w/ extra hanger supports. FiTech EFI
1000+ miles and pretty well sorted at this point.
question:
I have the opportunity to get some 4 into 4 headers (older straight pipes w/o the ball/socket joint) and wondering if the HP bump is worth it.
good news is that I don't have body work done yet, so I won't need to worry about modifying the side pipe opening on an already painted car.
TIA
My 2 cents: horsepower aside, you'd be able to eliminate the hanger supports. To me, the key is how easy it is to access the header bolts on the engine. If you have easy access, I'd do it in a heartbeat. I have j-pipes and shorty headers and that's the first thing I'd change if I were to do it again.
egchewy79
10-08-2022, 03:40 PM
173503
Bolts shouldn’t be an issue
Kinda proud of my home brewed hangers
GoDadGo
10-08-2022, 04:13 PM
You may be surprised that you may find your decimal level going up so be ready for a little extra sound that those 4-tubes will likely be bringing you.
If that is the case, 3M ear plugs will work just fine.
Good Luck & Happy Wrenching!
j.miller
10-08-2022, 05:28 PM
I know this one....I know this one !!! Get the 4 into 4s if for no other reason you won't have to use your toe to lift your side-pipe every time you get at of the car. J pipes are forever slipping down...Da Bat
Jeff Kleiner
10-08-2022, 05:29 PM
You may be surprised that you may find your decimal level going up so be ready for a little extra sound that those 4-tubes will likely be bringing you.
If that is the case, 3M ear plugs will work just fine.
Good Luck & Happy Wrenching!
Actually, I think the opposite is true. Cars that I’ve had through here with J-Pipes seem to have a sharper, more flat (and to my ear less pleasant) sound than ones with the 4 into 4 long tubes. This seems to be even more pronounce with Coyotes—-sorry Al ;) my hypothesis is that this is because there is a big restriction that causes some sort of a reverberation when the bigger round J-Pipe hits the blunt transition to the 4 sidepipe tubes. Same for the awkward 4 into 2 merge of the Coupe pipes. But whet the hell do my ears or I know :p
Jeff
egchewy79
10-08-2022, 07:06 PM
Increased sounds can’t be any worse than the tinny rattle from the FFR pipes. Thinking of drilling a set screw from the bottom to reduce the vibration. As far as the 3M plugs, they better not be the same under class action lawsuit from the military. I have some custom plugs that I wear. I’m willing to pull the trigger if a noticeable HP gain is to be had.
kobra01
10-09-2022, 12:01 PM
The j pipe has a bung for your o2 censor for your efi. I don’t think Old style 4 into 4 header has a bung. Check with other fitech installs and see if it works ok for them with putting bung it just one tube.
egchewy79
10-09-2022, 04:33 PM
I’m hearing there might be enough hassle factors that would dissuade me from switching to the 4 in 4 headers. I think for O2 sensors, others have welded a bung on the underside of the side pipes after the collectors. Juice probably isn’t worth the squeeze.
GoDadGo
10-09-2022, 06:18 PM
I’m hearing there might be enough hassle factors that would dissuade me from switching to the 4 in 4 headers. I think for O2 sensors, others have welded a bung on the underside of the side pipes after the collectors. Juice probably isn’t worth the squeeze.
I could have easily run Tru-Ram Manifolds and J-Pipes, but fabbed up 4 tube headers instead.
With that said, I'd go for the long tube headers in a heart beat if I didn't have them.
Whether the car is quieter or louder in the end would not be a deterrent.
I'm sure you'll feel a power increase in the seat of your pants.
Good Luck No Matter What Path You Take!
boat737
10-09-2022, 08:53 PM
One of the biggies for me with the 4-into-4 is the look. They just look like the way they should be. Simple, clean, sturdy, and authentic.
My recommendation if you decide to go with headers is to get the new FFR ball-swivel design. They include bungs for O2 sensors and make fitting the side pipes much easier than non-adjustable headers.
Dave
rich grsc
10-10-2022, 08:01 AM
My recommendation if you decide to go with headers is to get the new FFR ball-swivel design. They include bungs for O2 sensors and make fitting the side pipes much easier than non-adjustable headers.
Dave
The ball-swivel design still leaves you with the issue of the pipe sagging over time. I friend has a set, and it's been a recurring issue for him, no matter how tight he makes the bolts.
I really doubt you'll gain much HP on a 289.
The ball-swivel design still leaves you with the issue of the pipe sagging over time. I friend has a set, and it's been a recurring issue for him, no matter how tight he makes the bolts.
I really doubt you'll gain much HP on a 289.
This is true. I've tightened the bolts several times.
Railroad
10-10-2022, 08:32 AM
I would not fear putting 2 tack welds or 2 tec screws into the ball socket, if it kept slipping.
GoDadGo
10-10-2022, 09:23 AM
This is true. I've tightened the bolts several times.
Could you simply do a couple of spot welds once you have the side pipe alignment perfected?
Jeff Kleiner
10-10-2022, 09:51 AM
Spot welds or screws aren’t necessary; just fab up a simple front hanger to stabilize the collector to sidepipe intersection something like these that I make when I have a car with J-Pipes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173599&d=1665413322
Jeff
egchewy79
10-10-2022, 10:31 AM
check out my hangers in post #3. pipes haven't moved since day one.
modeled them off Darkwater customs versions.
at the end of the day, unless you have some spare parts laying around, DWC's hangers only cost a fraction more than a home brewed one, but it was fun making them myself.
GoDadGo
10-10-2022, 11:35 AM
I should have been clearer Sir Jeffski.
I meant spot welding the Ball & Socket Header in place for the F5 adjustable end long tubes.
I had a set of Headman Headers on my Z/28 that had Ball & Socket ends.
We welded them after everything was fitted to keep them from rotating.
Jeff Kleiner
10-10-2022, 12:25 PM
I should have been clearer Sir Jeffski.
I meant spot welding the Ball & Socket Header in place for the F5 adjustable end long tubes.
I had a set of Headman Headers on my Z/28 that had Ball & Socket ends.
We welded them after everything was fitted to keep them from rotating.
Yeah Steve, I understood that but maintain that using a front hanger like Chewy and I showed (I missed his photo in the earlier post) will keep the pipes stationary but is less permanent and will allow for adjustments later if necessary, fir example if the sidepipes are changed.
Jeff