Rate my build Bom

[danmas]

Hey Gang,

Newbie here and planning on my kit from Factory Five. I have an initial order but, I don't know that I have things right. I also don't want to be that guy that calls the sales staff every five minutes and pesters them with questions. So I thought I would post here and ask for Advice:


I ordered the complete kit for the MK4 and I am dropping in a 427 Stage one Manual from blue print.

This is what I have so far:


Complete Roadster
12.88 Front Wil Brk w/Kit Red
3-link Delux Susp w/kit
RD/CP F&R 3/4 link Shock Set
31 Spline 13.5" Drive Shaft
HYD Cluctch Maser Cylinder Kit
427 HDR w/Parts
Base 4 into 4 Side Exhaust
Pwr Steer PARTS w Compl KIT



I ordered the Blue Print Engine:

Ford 427 c.i. Fuel Injected HO Stage 1

Package Option 3: TKX 5-Speed Manual Transmission — $25,920
Complete engine with installed TKX 5-Speed steel bell Transmission
and installed Polished Front Accessory Drive with 1-wire 100 amp Alternator, PS & AC

I think I need a rear end (it says donor on my sales order) and I think I need rear brakes. I have no idea what to do here. I think I want the IRS and I want the whole kit.

Should I get:


17120 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles

I can't tell if this is all inclusive. Essentially, I want the whole kit to come with all the parts I need. Hard to tell if this is everything I need.

Also since I ordered the complete kit, I assume it comes with a gas tank and fuel system, but, I don't see that listed anywhere in the build. I will ask FF, but, thought I would come to you guys and check first. Anything I am missing? Besides, you know, wheels and tires? (And I could use some help there as well).

Thanks!
Dan

[Chopper]

Hello and welcome!

The complete kit comes with a gas tank and a basic fuel system. You may need to get some other plumbing to feed the 427, also depends on whether you are running carburetor or fuel injection. Fuel plumbing and fittings can be determined later. FFR does sell an EFI kit, but buying components individually will give you better value...their kit is a little expensive for what you get IMO.

As you have noted, the kit does not come with a rear end. If you are using 3-link, the Moser is a good choice. I believe the complete kit comes with basic rear brakes, but FFR also sells an upgraded Wilwood package for the 8.8 rear end (12.19" brakes). Various forum vendors (such as Gordon Levy) also have other rear brake options from Wilwood that will work for this application. Obviously there are other brake brands as well.

FFR's hydraulic clutch kit may not come with the correct size master cylinder for the hydraulic throwout bearing Blueprint uses. I would contact Blueprint and FFR to figure out if the size is right. If not buying a Wilwood MC from Summit, Jegs, forum vendor, etc. will plug right into the Wilwood pedal box. If the size is wrong you also may want to ask what is included in the FFR hydraulic clutch kit, as I am guessing it's mostly just an MC, a hose or two and a reservoir.

You should also check your state requirements for registration. In VA where I live, both wipers and a defroster are required. While both are available from other sources, you can also get them from FFR if you so choose. The FFR wiper kit often gets maligned as it requires a decent amount of tuning to work right and given the cost maybe should be a bit better. The defroster/heater kit is fairly common and straightforward.

Are you going to get the chassis powder coated yourself, or paint yourself? I only note it as it's not on your option list (FFR can do it as well).

In all honesty you will find things along the way you want to buy and add, or change from what FFR supplies. It all depends on your end goals and budget. A nice car can certainly be built with the kit and nothing else...but you'll see so many good ideas on here, it will be hard to resist.

[mladen]

Essentially, I want the whole kit to come with all the parts I need. Hard to tell if this is everything I need.


Not to be the bearer of bad news, but this will definitely not happen. I received my kit last year and the POL was 3 pages. I am only now near to having all the parts. The same engine from Blueprint took a year and a half (but I hear things are improving on getting the blocks they need).

Even with all the parts, there will still be a huge number of various small items, tools, etc that you will end up searching for along the way. All this to say, don't stress too much on getting everything right now.

For the fuel question, yes it comes with the tank. You will definitely want to get a stronger pump for that engine (I went with the in-tank pump from Breeze), which also means you'll have to upgrade to 3/8 fuel lines (read my build thread for the fittings hell I went through :D )

The engine you speced has AC, it's not a common item folks do. Did you want that?

To Chopper's point about the clutch MC, we have the same engine. The 3/4 MC you'll get is right for what the throw out bearing needs.

[Namrups]

You listed a complete kit with a 3-link rear end. The 3-link I believe is standard. You also stated, a few sentences later, that you wanted an IRS. That would be an upgrade. (And well worth the money IMO)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Complete kit does not include rear brakes in either configuration (IRS or 3 link). If you opt for IRS you’ll need a differential, uprights/hubs and brakes. If you go 3 link you’ll need a rear end and brakes. As already mentioned your Blueprint specs show A/C—-if you intend to have air you need to add it to the FFR order and if not you need to delete it from BP.

Jeff

[egchewy79]

as pointed out, the first decision is the type of rear end, 3 link vs IRS. This will make a difference in your chassis configuration, so they're not interchangable. you'll need a rear differential either way and rear brakes. Brake options will depend on your tire size as well (FFR wilwoods won't fit on 15" rims, but as mentioned Gordon Levy might have some options).
3 link rear ends (8.8" solid axle) can be sourced in a scrap yard or new through various vendors, including FFR. I got my Moser 8.8 through Mike Forte, who can also provide fuel options (you'll need an intank pump, hanger, regulator, etc). Tank will be provided in complete kit.
Breeze automotive also offers a returnless pressure regulator system as well as other sundry options you never thought you'd need.
I'd recommend taking some time reading multiple build threads and determine what you want from this build.
Try to order as many things you'll "need" from the vendors (Forte, Breeze, Summit, Jegs, etc) as you'll save hundreds of $$s if you can order at once.
And Mike Forte and Mark Reynolds (Breeze automotive) are always happy to talk to you on the phone and help you sort out what you need.
Good luck

[Chopper]

Even with all the parts, there will still be a huge number of various small items, tools, etc that you will end up searching for along the way. All this to say, don't stress too much on getting everything right now.

This is really good advice. When I did my build, I was excited and really wanted to plan it all out and have most everything ready to go as soon as I had the kit. Planning is good, but there will be things you need along the way, and it's better to wait until you working on a system to figure out the exact parts you need to solve it. For example, for the fuel lines...you know you need 3/8 feed and return, but it's better to wait until you're closer to figure out exactly what fittings, etc you need and order them closer to that point.

-Brandon

[danmas]

Thanks everyone. I missed the whole what you need when you buy the complete kit part. I mean I knew I needed an engine, but, I didn't understand the Rear End. To respond to folks:

Yes, I do want the independent rear suspension.

I appreciate the advice of taking things one system at a time, and so I will do that. With respect to the aircon on the 427, it was about $200 more and I figured I would rather have it than not for only $200. Here is my new modified BOM. Anything obvious I have missed?




16613 - Powder coated chassis – Black, includes powder coated driver’s side roll bar
16434 - Headers: 390/427/428 Big Block stainless steel 4-port full length
Replace 12477 - 390/427/428 Big Block Mounts
34158 - Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit (requires customer supplied slave cylinder and hydraulic throw-out bearing)
16349 - 31 spline driveshaft for 4.6L/5.0L Coyote with Tremec TKX/TKO, T-45 or 3650 transmission. Also for 390/427/428 Big Block with Tremec TKX/TKO transmission.
12070 - Body with cut-outs of side pipes, body mounts, lighting accessories, gas cap, roll-bars, windshield posts, and side louver openings
13852 - Upgrade: Competition High-Back Aluminum Race Seats with black fabric covers
16799 - Power steering kit (requires pump and bracket)
12066 - Standard Width Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
17120 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
15945 - 2015-2017 Mustang IRS Manual Driveshaft Adapter
16004 - Vintage Factory Five/Smiths Style GPS Gauges (mph)
12049 - Wind Wings
15549 – Vintage Wiper Kit
15998 - 2015 IRS Rear Swaybar
12469 - Brake Duct Wire Mesh, preformed
16989 - Carbon Fiber Dash with Glove Box
17063 – Heater-Defroster
33862 - EFI In-Tank Fuel System
16627 - Passenger Side Black Powder-coated Roll-Bar
15635 - Center Dash Support
15760 - 14” Leather Steering Wheel Upgrade
16808 - Trunk Gas Strut Kit
16668 - 2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
15370 - 12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted (View)
17165 - 12.88” 2015 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted

Updates:
13083 - 302/351W Mounts

Engine:
Ford 427 c.i. Fuel Injected HO Stage 1

Package Option 3: TKX 5-Speed Manual Transmission
Complete engine with installed TKX 5-Speed steel bell Transmission
and installed Polished Front Accessory Drive with 1-wire 100 amp Alternator, PS & AC


Edit: Updating the bom a bit as I figure things out.

[egchewy79]

Is that 427 a bored/stroked 351 or an actual 427? If so, you’ll want the 302/351 engine mount option

[danmas]

Is that 427 a bored/stroked 351 or an actual 427? If so, you’ll want the 302/351 engine mount option

Its a blueprint engine 427 so I think the 427 mounts.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Its a blueprint engine 427 so I think the 427 mounts.

It’s not a 427 FE but is based on the Windsor block so will use the 302/351 mounts.

Jeff

[danmas]

It’s not a 427 FE but is based on the Windsor block so will use the 302/351 mounts.

Jeff

Wow. Super glad I started this thread. I had no idea. It never occurred to me that the blueprint engine would be based on a windsor block and use different mounts. I just went to their website and this is what they say now (note that this is new):

Block:
NEW! DART SHP small block
Cleveland mains
Square and parallel decked
Align honed main bearing bore
Cylinders honed on computer controlled machine to within .0002 straightness and roundness

Do you think I still want the 302 mounts? FF doesn't have another option, so I trust it will work?

Do I also have to change the spline and the pipes?
16758 - Headers: 302 stainless steel 4-port (replace OEM Mustang headers & J-pipes)
16350 - 31 spline driveshaft for small 302/351W with Tremec TKX/TKO transmission

Hard to know unless you know!

Thanks again!

[mladen]

Yup. This is the same confusion I had when I was looking to order a kit. I knew I wanted a 427 but I didn't understand that the usual 427 people go for is actually based on a 351w (Windsor), and I also almost ordered the kit set up for a 427 FE, which is a big block, and a whole different thing. I assume a lot of us that are new to this space have the same struggle, and I wish FFR would edit the wording a bit more on the order page to make it clearer.

13083 - 302/351W Mounts will work for the engine you ordered.

Also, for that engine, I think you'll want to go with 16794 - Headers: 351W stainless steel 4-port (replace OEM Mustang headers & J-pipes)
For the driveshaft, if you're going with the IRS, I think you'll need 16038 - 31 spline driveshaft for 302/351W with Tremec TKX/TKO transmission and 2015 IRS

You didn't mention which wheels you're going with. Worth noting that FFR does not have a Wilwood option if you want to go with the 15" Halibrands. I did, and I ordered a Wilwood brake kit from Gordon Levy (Levy Racing) that he makes to fit the 15s. It's a tight squeeze though. I had them balanced off the car, and when I put them on the caliper shaved the weights off, and they're about 3mm thick :D

[danmas]

Thank you and new BOM:




Cosmetic-Interior
16613 - Powder coated chassis – Black, includes powder coated driver’s side roll bar
12070 - Body with cut-outs of side pipes, body mounts, lighting accessories, gas cap, roll-bars, windshield posts, and side louver openings
16004 - Vintage Factory Five/Smiths Style GPS Gauges (mph)
12049 - Wind Wings
13852 - Upgrade: Competition High-Back Aluminum Race Seats with black fabric covers
12469 - Brake Duct Wire Mesh, preformed
16989 - Carbon Fiber Dash with Glove Box
17063 – Heater-Defroster
16627 - Passenger Side Black Powder-coated Roll-Bar
15635 - Center Dash Support
15760 - 14” Leather Steering Wheel Upgrade
16808 - Trunk Gas Strut Kit

Clutch:
34158 - Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit (requires customer supplied slave cylinder and hydraulic throw-out bearing)
16921 - Hydraulic Clutch Throw-Out Bearing Kit (Note: compatible with Wilwood pedal box assembly only and requires Ford style Tremec transmission)

Front Suspension/Power Steering
16799 - Power steering kit (requires pump and bracket)
12066 - Standard Width Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
16116 - Front Swaybar
15370 - 12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted (View)

Rear:
15998 - 2015 IRS Rear Swaybar
16668 - 2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
17120 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
15945 - 2015-2017 Mustang IRS Manual Driveshaft Adapter
17165 - 12.88” 2015 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted

Engine/DriveTrain:
13083 - 302/351W Mounts
16794 - Headers: 351W stainless steel 4-port (replace OEM Mustang headers & J-pipes)
16038 - 31 spline driveshaft for 302/351W with Tremec TKX/TKO transmission and 2015 IRS

Engine:
BluePrint Ford 427 c.i. Fuel Injected HO Stage 1

Package Option 3: TKX 5-Speed Manual Transmission
Complete engine with installed TKX 5-Speed steel bell Transmission
and installed Polished Front Accessory Drive with 1-wire 100 amp Alternator, PS & AC

[danmas]

Y

You didn't mention which wheels you're going with. Worth noting that FFR does not have a Wilwood option if you want to go with the 15" Halibrands. I did, and I ordered a Wilwood brake kit from Gordon Levy (Levy Racing) that he makes to fit the 15s. It's a tight squeeze though. I had them balanced off the car, and when I put them on the caliper shaved the weights off, and they're about 3mm thick :D

I don't have a clue what wheels I want except I want them to look a lot like Jesse's here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38897-Jesse-builds-a-Cobra-10-008-Graduated&p=446232&viewfull=1#post446232)

I have a question into him, but, if anyone know what these are, kind of the look I am going for

Thanks!

Dan

[edwardb]

Can't add too much, except you don't need to know every detail before ordering. You have the basics -- Roadster with IRS, 351 based 427 engine, TKX, etc. That's plenty to place your order. You can make changes up to several weeks before your production date which will be many months from now based on current leadtimes. They will ask for a final review several weeks before your promised date.

For A/C -- adding two hundred dollars to your engine for a compressor (pretty cheap BTW) doesn't give you A/C. Only a compressor. There's a whole bunch more that's required. You have 17063 – Heater-Defroster listed as one of your options. With A/C, you'd use a completely different unit that also includes the A/C evaporator in that assembly. Maybe this helps. These are the instructions for the Roadster heater-defroster: http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/HEATER-DEFROSTER-_ROADSTER.pdf. They don't list A/C for a Roadster, but these instructions for the Coupe give you an idea of what's required and the differences: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/AC-HEATER-DEFROSTER-COUPE-Gen-3-REV-G.pdf.

[mladen]

Your engine package from blueprint will include a McLeod throw out bearing so you don't need 16921 as well.

[GoDadGo]

Two (2) things I'd suggest if you haven't done this already is:

1. Get the manual and read it a few time before ordering your kit.
2. Watch all of the assembly videos if you haven't done that already.

https://youtu.be/NnJdjMKDC_g?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/QokuC-jzLK8?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/oBJ5dKLrhoU?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/B5zGnHExZuA?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/iT_YYcffxTY?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/BHA_zGXUtok?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/H_n5ZJJHrjE?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/CNjDsEbqJVk?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/ybGdqmVyDV4?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/S4QwcS8uT2s?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/qbfxy5nSGY0?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/tZ7SXfdIXzM?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB
https://youtu.be/L46MJmvJQv0?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB

Taking these two simple actions will really help you understand the process.
As an added bonus, it may help you with configuring your order too.

Good Luck Ordering & Then Building Your Dream!

[cc2Arider]

Hi Dan,

I'm new to this forum as well. Welcome aboard! You'll find lots of helpful information here...sometimes it is overwhelming :)

I've been following lots of build threads and gleaning some knowledge along the way. I actually had my FFR brochures for about 9 months now...watching the videos and figuring out what I want versus what I need...

I noticed your BOM includes the Carbon Fiber Dash panel AND the heater/defroster kit. My brochure order form says that those are incompatible...I suppose you can make them work as others have done. I think the depth needs to be reduced to make room for the heater/defroster manifold that lives behind the dash panel.

Can anyone else confirm this?

Craig C

[mladen]

Hi Dan,

I'm new to this forum as well. Welcome aboard! You'll find lots of helpful information here...sometimes it is overwhelming :)

I've been following lots of build threads and gleaning some knowledge along the way. I actually had my FFR brochures for about 9 months now...watching the videos and figuring out what I what versus what I need...

I noticed your BOM includes the Carbon Fiber Dash panel AND the heater/defroster kit. My brochure order form says that those are incompatible...I suppose you can make them work as others have done. I think the depth needs to be reduced to make room for the heater/defroster manifold that lives behind the dash panel.

Can anyone else confirm this?

Craig C

I'd assume this is becuse the carbon dash comes with a glove box which won't fit if you have a heater there. I don't know if using a firewall forward mitigates this fully, probably not. I'm sure there are ways around it, like firewall forward plus fashioning your own glove box, it all depends on how much fabrication one wants to do :)

And huge +1 to GoDadGo's suggestion!

[GoDadGo]

One Other Thing:

If you get any advice from Jeff Kleiner, Edwardb (Paul B), Mike Everson or 65 Cobra Dude (Henry R).

Take the advice that these gentlemen give you because it will be based on expert experience and knowledge...Like you I'm a first time builder and these folks lent me their advice which aided me in completing my car.

Take your time and get acquainted with the process so you can have an amazing build and an amazing car.

Good Luck From The Dad Zone!

Steve (aka: G.D.G.)
Factory Five MK-4 #8515 / The Redbone Roadster
https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/customer-steve-l-graduates-his-mk4-roadster/

[Namrups]

Your listing the 12.88 brake package front and rear. I know that 18" wheels will fit over them (they are hugh) because I am using 18" wheels. I think 17" wheels will also fit but 15" will not.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172309&d=1662917885

[danmas]

I think 17" will be fine on my ride. I need to find the wheels to support that.

[danmas]

I have watched the videos multiple times. Actually connecting them to the car I want to build and the parts list is hard. Actually I have always been awful about parts. I invariably buy the wrong thing three times. The Amazon "This works with your car" has been a god send. That being said I am super grateful for the advice. Just a point of clarification, I have already ordered the car (about a week ago). Now I need to fix the bom. Hee.

[danmas]

So I actually don't want a glove box thinking about it. I may just get a blank and custom lay out my dash/gauges. Will likely put that off for a bit thinking about it. Again, super glad I asked.

[danmas]

Thank you! I really wish they had a standard bom that encapsulated the blueprint engine. Seems like it would be really simple to do. Or maybe a wizard approach that would spit out a bom. But, this is fun as well actually.

[danmas]

Can't add too much, except you don't need to know every detail before ordering. You have the basics -- Roadster with IRS, 351 based 427 engine, TKX, etc. That's plenty to place your order. You can make changes up to several weeks before your production date which will be many months from now based on current leadtimes. They will ask for a final review several weeks before your promised date.

For A/C -- adding two hundred dollars to your engine for a compressor (pretty cheap BTW) doesn't give you A/C. Only a compressor. There's a whole bunch more that's required. You have 17063 – Heater-Defroster listed as one of your options. With A/C, you'd use a completely different unit that also includes the A/C evaporator in that assembly. Maybe this helps. These are the instructions for the Roadster heater-defroster: http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/HEATER-DEFROSTER-_ROADSTER.pdf. They don't list A/C for a Roadster, but these instructions for the Coupe give you an idea of what's required and the differences: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/AC-HEATER-DEFROSTER-COUPE-Gen-3-REV-G.pdf.

I read through the instruction book last night (sorta). 100+ pages for aircon? OMG. I mean I though it would be kinda cool, even if just wasteful to be able to put aircon on for like 5 minutes when starting it up and before the drive, but, not for that level of complexity. Snort. OK, so more modifications to the bom. THANKs!

[danmas]

I think 17" will be fine on my ride. I need to find the wheels to support that.

[danmas]

OK, this is my new bom:



COSMETIC/Interior
16613 - Powder coated chassis – Black, includes powder coated driver’s side roll bar
12070 - Body with cut-outs of side pipes, body mounts, lighting accessories, gas cap, roll-bars, windshield posts, and side louver openings
16004 - Vintage Factory Five/Smiths Style GPS Gauges (mph)
13852 - Upgrade: Competition High-Back Aluminum Race Seats with black fabric covers
12469 - Brake Duct Wire Mesh, preformed
16627 - Passenger Side Black Powder-coated Roll-Bar
15635 - Center Dash Support
15760 - 14” Leather Steering Wheel Upgrade
16808 - Trunk Gas Strut Kit
17138 - Dash Components

Clutch:
34158 - Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit (requires customer supplied slave cylinder and hydraulic throw-out bearing)

Front Suspension/Power Steering
16799 - Power steering kit (requires pump and bracket)
12066 - Standard Width Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
16116 - Front Swaybar
15370 - 12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted (View)

Rear:
15998 - 2015 IRS Rear Swaybar
16668 - 2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
17120 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
15945 - 2015-2017 Mustang IRS Manual Driveshaft Adapter
17165 - 12.88” 2015 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted

Engine/DriveTrain:
13083 - 302/351W Mounts
16794 - Headers: 351W stainless steel 4-port (replace OEM Mustang headers & J-pipes)
16038 - 31 spline driveshaft for 302/351W with Tremec TKX/TKO transmission and 2015 IRS

Engine:
BluePrint Ford 427 c.i. Fuel Injected HO Stage 1

Package Option 3: TKX 5-Speed Manual Transmission
Complete engine with installed TKX 5-Speed steel bell Transmission
and installed Polished Front Accessory Drive with 1-wire 100 amp Alternator, PS & AC (A change order is $250 which is more than the AC add on).

[shackf16]

Regarding the A/C option - NorthRaceCars makes an A/C kit for the Roadster, but you can give up any hopes of a glovebox in the dash. ALL of the space behind the dash on the passenger's side gets taken up by the blower assembly. His kit comes with a compressor, but you could probably make the one you are getting from Blueprint work. There is a lot of work that goes into it, and many question the feasibility of it in the first place. I live in southern Arizona with triple digit temps pretty standard for what feels like half the year, so the A/C is a necessity in my book. I also have a hard top, heated seats, and am looking into options for ventilated seats to keep things as comfortable as possible.

Good luck on your build and welcome to the crazy!!!

Shack

[CraigS]

You can get the IRS diff etc from FFR or Ford but all you get is the bare parts. I recommend you look on the web for a salvage yard complete rear suspension takeout. Be sure you get one including the brakes. They are good brakes, much better than the old Mustang stuff was. They include the parking brake too so less other stuff to buy. The one I bought even had the park brake cables which I cut and spliced to the cable I already had on the handle end. I also saved some $ because I went w/ the 315 gear ratio. Most don't like that gear so it is usually less $ but w/ my 408 I found it to work very well. W/ your 427 it would be even better