Floor Insulation question

[DonImbimbo]

Since FF no longer offers the Heat / Sound insulation kit for the 35, what kind of insulation did they put in the floor?

I was going to use something like 1 inch RMAX which is foil faced, rigid foam. But I don't know if it will withstand the heat of the exhaust.

Maybe I could still find Asbestos (only kidding! ).

[edwardb]

Unless something changed since I received mine less than two years ago, which I doubt, they eliminated the kit because it's standard now. Wasn't when the kit first came out. The floor is made up of aluminum panels on each side of the frame floor (1 inch thick) and insulation pieces are provided to fill between. In the manual they show using 3M 5200 marine sealant to glue in the insulation foam. Mine's not done or on the road yet, but I've run and done short go-kart runs, and believe the heat from the underside exhaust is reasonably shielded by this treatment.

[DonImbimbo]

Thanks Ed,

I have the build manual in PDF so I see the process. When I ordered my 35 in August the order confirmation had "Note Heat and Sound no longer available". In August it was still listed as $349. So I assumed it was discontinued.

I'll enquire with Tech Support or Sales.

[FF33rod]

Using the '33 as a reference, there used to be a heat and sound insulation option that no longer shows up. This was a Dynamat style, custom cut package for the '33. I don't see that option listed anymore in the option sheet on the web site. For reference, here is the installation instructions that shows what it was. So it looks like that's what they're discontinuing not necessarily the foam in the floor sandwich? https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/content/instructions/33989-hot-rod-insulation.pdf

Steve

[DonImbimbo]

FF33rod - That is exactly the case. I verified this with FF Tech Support. The package that was deleted is the "stuff" under the carpet, above the aluminum floor. That cleared up my confusion.

Don

[Prslegmaker]

I found I needed to trim each of the foam blanks before they would fit snugly in each floor space. only 1/8" of of two sides made them fit. I used the 3M marine adhesive as well. It went pretty smooth. Im painting the Lizard Skin on both sides of the floor. I put the sound barrier down first and then the heat layer on top.

[edwardb]

FWIW, my truck with the above insulation (kit supplied material + marine adhesive between the aluminum sheets) is complete and I have about 500 miles on it. Also with the kit supplied exhaust system. Have driven it in 90+ degree weather on long enough trips that if heat were a problem I would have felt it. So far, no sign of heat from the floor. I do have Vintage Air A/C and on those same hot days it was running of course. I didn't put anything else on the inside floor except carpet. I did put Second Skin Damplifier Pro on the transmission tunnel cover, and two layers of Dynamat Dynaliner on the inside of the firewall. I've used Lizard Skin products on previous builds and like them very much. IMO, they are best for inside applications, and typically covered, e.g. with carpet. They are latex products and while work great for their intended purpose, I personally wouldn't use them on the outside or underside of a build. At least not without some additional product. Lizard Skin does tell a topcoat (3010.1 Top Coat Aerosol) which I tried on a previous build. It was OK. But IMO very similar to any number of spray-on undercoat products. Nothing special.

[narly1]

FYI, my kit that I picked up end-March came with 2 sets sheet metal pieces (that fix to the top and bottom of the floor framing) along with rigid insulation panels that are meant to go in the gap in between. The panels are fiber, not foam.

Earl