Mark I Trunk Brace

[GrooveM]

I have a Mark I roadster and it has the straight trunk brace that not only looks out of place but prevents usage of the trunk space. Now before you tell me that roadsters aren’t meant for long road trips with lots of luggage I can tell you I get that. However, even going to car shows and events where the wife and I would like to each have a folding chair and maybe a sportbrella for some shade it has been challenging to get everything there in addition to the two of us. So, being a tool & product designer for nearly 30 years I have decided to correct this issue. The pics attached show what I’m working with and what I’m facing. I already measured and had a piece of 3/4 square tubing rolled to match the curve of the body where the trunk lid attaches (I Calculated it to be a 74” radius btw). Where I’m having an issue is the placement and the last 2 pics show the two issues:
1. If I place it behind the lip of the area here the trunk lid sets into the tube will stick below that lip a solid 1/4”.
2. If I try to locate it behind the formed area for the trunk recess it will run into the two hinge studs. I would have to cut more than half way through the the tube in both spots to get a socked on the nuts.
I’m wondering if anyone else has tackled this issue and what you came up with a solution. Thanks for thinking about it!

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[txboiler]

Can you drill a “clearance” hole in the 3/4” inch tube, and then use a coupler and bolt and washer to engage the hinge studs?

[JohnnyB]

Back in the day a lot of folks installed Russ Thompson's trunk hoop conversion kit. Maybe you could get some ideas from his design.
http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/mk3/mk3thc.html

[mburger]

I am not 100% clear on what exactly you’re trying to do so just ignore my suggestion if it’s not relevant. If you are trying to make the curved hoop like the later Mks have, Russ Thompson sells a conversion kit and the work has already been done for you. I converted my Mk1 and it works great.

EDIT: Sorry JohnnyB! I didn’t read your post before I posted! Russ still makes them to my knowledge.
In the hopes of turning my useless post into something potentially useful, I’ve added some pictures.

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[ptstew]

Mark, I hope you survived Ian OK. That you are posting is a good sign.

[mburger]

Mark, I hope you survived Ian OK. That you are posting is a good sign.

Yes! Thanks! I just got power back Sunday afternoon. Using cell service for Internet and the wind and or debris damaged the LNB on my satellite dish for TV. My immediate area while plenty of damage like pool cage destruction, it’s nothing like the devastation a little south of us. Good to hear from you!

[GrooveM]

@txboiler, I thought about doing something like that but I really didn't want to cut into the tube and weaken it. Thanks for the input though.

@JohnnyB & mburger, I wish I had seen that before I started! Lol! Looks like it is mounted just behind the inside lip of the trunk opening and the tube is painted to match the body color. That eliminates the bolt interference so that's good. Since I already paid for and have the hoop, I'll probably finish it similar to that design making it a bolt in rather than having to weld it in. I was thinking of pulling the body this winter to go over the frame and eliminate several creaks and rattles so I could also weld it in. We'll see. I also have been thinking about adding the receivers for a passenger roll bar but not sure I want to tackle that at this time. Eventually I want to order and build a Daytona. Too many dreams and not enough money!! Thank you all for your help. When I get something done I'll post the results in case anyone else has a similar question in the future.

[mburger]

If I had the body off of my frame again, I would absolutely add the backbone. That will make a big difference in how the body does what I should say doesn’t flex. I’ve gone into a turn hard and have had my door pop open. When the car is on a lift you’ll notice the doors don’t close right until she’s back on all fours. The other thing that I would do, is add the protection around the foot box that the later cars have. Well having that protection may be a kin to having your seat 2 inches upright and suddenly you are now safe in a plane crash but the peace of mind would be worth the time and effort in my opinion. It wasn’t until my body was off did I realize how vulnerable my lower extremities are.

[GrooveM]

Quick update: I finished fabricating my hoop brace similar to the Russ Thompson (since I already had the hoop formed) and my youngest son and I modified some L-brackets to fit. Then measured and cut the bar and transferred the bracket holes in the bar stubs. I used 1/4-20 ss hex head bolts with ss washers and ss lock nuts (I like stainless parts). We had to use a right angle drill but it all went in nicely. I also put in a piece of the D-gasket I bought from Breeze for my doors, hood and trunk on the top edge of the hoop. Thanks again for your help and suggestions. Cheers!177832177833177834177835177836

[mburger]

Wow, nice fabrication work. Looks great!

[GTBradley]

I, for one, would never tell you these cars are not for long road trips.

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[CraigS]

Nice work.

[Bob 5.0]

Groove M
Like you I thought the same thing when I looked at mine with the body on it. Just didn't look right and of course I had the frame powder coated already !! Oh well body came back off and fixed it .

[GrooveM]

Last notes:
“Is he trying to put his bloody carry-all in your trunk?” (Couldn’t resist lol!)
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That’s my Bari Sax case. Unfortunately it still doesn’t fit for gigs, but my Tenor Sax fits easily and the Bari fits in the passenger seat (I play both for certain bands). Now I can gig in style!
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