Mark's '35 Truck Build Extended w/Gen 3 Coyote [Archive]

mkassab

09-19-2022, 08:42 AM

Hello All Fellow Factory Five Enthusiasts,

I'm fairly new to this forum and very glad to be here to document my ’35 Truck build.
I've been asked by many to document my '35 build, as I’ve done with all my previous builds (I referenced two at the end of this post). I'll keep this thread updated along the way... so it may end up being a bit long. So subscribe to this thread (via the "Thread Tool" above) to come along for the journey and share my experiences.

I also want to say I’ll shamelessly “borrow” ideas from many on this forum and acknowledge them, e.g., Paul (aka EdwardB), Frank, Erik, Tom W, Bruce, etc. (too many to list). Afterall, a great idea is a great idea. Why reinvent the wheel? With all I’ve learned from this forum's members….. hopefully what I can share can help others as much as the help I've received.

Background on the Build Strategy:

The intent of this build is clearly a bit over the top (some might say), with modifications being the key focus. I want a modern chassis, suspension, braking, steering, tires and comforts, but with a pretty much "look" of the original ’35 Ford pickup. I intend to choose colors that represent this time period.

So, this truck will be a modern chassis/suspension, the engine will be a Coyote 5.0 Gen 3. Since this truck will be my daily driver, I waited until Factory Five offered their Gen 2 Truck with the extended cab. This power plant will drive through a Tremec Magnum T56 6-speed w/ double OD manual trans and a Moser posi-track rear end, Wilwood big brakes front and rear, power rack and pinion steering and hydraulic driven clutch, upgraded Koni double adjustable shocks are part of the mix also. The '35 will also have automated air conditioning, backup camera in the rear view mirror, GPS driven Dakota Digital Speedo, cruise control, Ceramic coated or wrapped headers and exhaust, 2.5" stainless steel dual exhaust extended to the rear of the truck bed, and additional gauges (i.e., some of my gauges will be custom made by Speed Hut to match the Dakota format/backgrounds, e.g., Oil Temp, Vacuum, Clock and Fuel pressure). I also plan to do some light towing... so I'll add a 2" receiver hitch, backup lights, air bags & compressor, electric brakes, etc. For my truck bed, I planning on a Black Walnut wood with high gloss finish. For the '35’s interior, I'll be fitting new leather bucket seats from Wise Guys, , building my own console with a lot of “built-ins”, along with modern stereo system/speakers, intermittent wipers, tilt steering column/wheel, security system, tinted windows, etc.

Lastly, for the first time, I’ll do my own body and paint. I’ll purchase an inflatable paint booth to help me. It won’t be a really big one, as I’ll paint all in pieces vs put together on the chassis. I also intend to inflate the paint booth inside the middle bay of my garage. I’ll gain new experiences doing this; I can truly say “I did it”, should save my $$$s and I can sell some of this after I’m done.

General Preparation

Introduction
In this thread, I’ll share what I did to get prepared for the build. To get off to the best start you can, with the least negative impacts to your build, you’ll need to prep, research and prep some more.

Where will you work?
I’m very fortunate to have a good size 3 car garage (40’wide x 30’ deep), with very good lighting, as part of our house that I can use as my build space. This space is insulated and I have air-conditioning and heat (with two ceiling fans to help circulate the air).

The space is fully finished with workbenches. The walls have 28' of cabinets. The floor is polished and sealed/epoxy coated concrete (now, that’s a good project for all of you!). It’s really is worth the effort, No Concrete Dust ! I also have a large number of mechanic tools. I have all the floor jacks, jack stands, 2-Post car lift, air compressor and air tools, grinders, 2-ton engine hoist, MIG & Tig welders (both steel and aluminum), Plasma cutter, impact and torque wrenches, hand and power tools, etc. etc.

Some ask, “Why” I do all this work to document and share the experience?... simple answer is I've gained so much knowledge from others in many different forums for all the car builds I've done. Therefore, me documenting my builds in detail is my way to "Pay it forward".

So, stay tuned and I'll start the updates. I ordered my ’35 truck back in late July 2022 with a planned ship date of April 2023. I’ll work this project starting now with ordering parts/upgrades before truck order receipt since many items take weeks or months to receive (either due to backordered parts or being custom made). I’ll take tons of pictures and share what, why, how, etc along the way.

I also hope to receive feedback, both good and bad, suggestions, questions and comments of the build and why I did it that way… are there alternatives I should have considered, as an example.

Thanks and I'm happy to have each you follow along this journey.

Regards, Mark

Two past builds:
’66 Impala SS: https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/351166/
If you're a guest to ChevyTalk and not a member of this forum and want to subscribe to this thread, click here to become a member (free): https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/index.php?refer...

Unique Cobra 427 S/C (my first kit car project): https://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?68-Mark-s-Build

Salty Chief 35

09-19-2022, 09:26 AM

We’ll… you have my interest. I will be following along. From the description, I already have garage envy.
Good luck with your build,
Jeremie

mkassab

09-20-2022, 06:40 AM

We’ll… you have my interest. I will be following along. From the description, I already have garage envy.
Good luck with your build,
Jeremie

Thanks Jeremie.... here's a few pics of my shop work area....

Here's the main "construction" area with quick access to all the tools, lift, and parts storage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173179&d=1664446203

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173174&d=1664445958

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173180&d=1664446294

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173177&d=1664446051

Then off to the back right of the garage, I have some benches, storage and consumables.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173175&d=1664445968

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173178&d=1664446076

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173176&d=1664445994

Stay tuned as I have parts starting to show up and I'll post some of the more interesting items that aren't standard.

Mark

rthomas98

09-20-2022, 07:09 AM

I am very envious of your garage set-up.

mkassab

09-22-2022, 05:52 AM

Woo-hoo.. I just learned how to copy the BB code to get full size pics in my posts.

In North Carolina, you're allowed to used past/old license plates that match the year of your vehicle. I was lucky to fine a very good '35 NC plate on eBay for my truck. It's made of steel, a little wider and not as tall as today's plate.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172892&d=1663841084

Mark

mkassab

09-23-2022, 07:41 AM

Over the past weeks, I've been searching the web for an "Old Timey" vehicle color to be somewhat "Period Correct". I wanted a color that would standout and not be typical of the vast majority of colors others pick for vintage/classic automobiles.

Well, I've found that color scheme from a Good Guys car winner. It has several colors... light pastel green, a darker emerald green, gloss black and tan pin strips.

In this picture, it shows the overall colors of the body, beltline, wheels, fenders & running boards.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172891&d=1663840915

This next picture, is a closeup of the wheel.... darker emerald green to match the beltline, the tan pinstripe around the rim, gloss black between the wheel and hub cap, chrome hub cap to match the chrome mirrors, door handles and headlight buckets that FF supplies with the kit. I even ordered the same wheels from Wheel Smith and they will powder coat the wheels in Emerald Green and the Gloss Black hub cap mount ring. The wheels will take about 8 weeks to receive.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172888&d=1663840915

Up next is a shot of the beltline with the emerald green overlaid on the light pastel green with tan pinstripe. I'll use the '35's beltline on the cab, doors, hood, and bed sides. I also really like the beltline sweep up in front of the windshield on the cowl.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172889&d=1663840915

And lastly, a closeup of the beltline and sweep up on the cowl.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172890&d=1663840915

Stay tune.... parts are starting to come in and I'll share the key items and why I chose them.

Mark

mkassab

09-25-2022, 05:10 AM

Quick update.... A few items came in and I also decided to go ahead and make my Fuel Charcoal canister (credit to Paul, aka EwardB).

First pic is of some parts, Moser Differential cover. It's a beefed up heavy aluminum cover that also supports the bearing end caps. I cleaned it with acetone and clear coated it to prevent oxidation. In addition, the Ahooga Ooga horn, SS braided black fuel lines and "Ford" side step plates also arrived.

Question: does anyone know how to prevent gear oil leaking past the bearing end cap bolts?.... e.g., do I use some sort of pipe thread sealer/ Teflon tape? And, is there a particular brand I need?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173061&d=1664098221

Next up, the fuel pump hanger and electric fuel pump. I went with the same parts Paul did since I know he did his homework and used this setup before. The pump will supply the lpm and psi needed for the Gen 3 Coyote engine. The hanger has the larger 3/8" tubing vs the standard 5/16"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173058&d=1664098141

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173059&d=1664098166

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173060&d=1664098179

And last, again following Paul's lead, I made my charcoal canister fuel tank vent. The only difference from Paul's is I went with 3" PCV coupler. For the inside top and bottom I used fish tank charcoal filter pads to prevent the added activated charcoal filler the fills the void between the top and bottom end caps from coming out. As you'll see clearly in the last pic is I used two SS screws in the 3" coupler to hold the endcaps in place (vs glue) to allow for activated charcoal change in the future if needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173056&d=1664098087

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173055&d=1664098052

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173057&d=1664098125

As more "stuff" shows up, I'll share. Again, my goal here is to have all I need for the build... when that time comes. Also, many items just take a lot of time to show up, e.g, seats, wheels, hood side cover vents, instrument cluster unit, etc. I'm also making a master wire diagram that uses Factory Five's wire diagram as a basis and then adding all my additional items to it... more on that later. The process of advance planning and ordering really gets your head into the game and will help eliminate "some" of the surprises. As you all know who has done projects like this before, you'll get surprises and issues most every day that will have to be dealt with in some form or another.

Thx Mark

orangecruz

09-27-2022, 03:13 AM

looking forward to this, already looking great

Higgybulin

09-27-2022, 04:15 AM

I spy a nice '51 grille on the wall in one of them pics!

mkassab

09-27-2022, 05:14 AM

Well, that 51/52 grille was extra from a restomod I did.... i.e., '52 Ford F1 pickup. Very high end truck with new frame, engine, etc

Here's my build link if interested: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1335526-marks-52-f1-restomod-build.html This is a very detail tread of my build and represents what you'll see on this thread.

Thx Mark

Higgybulin

09-27-2022, 06:42 AM

Here is a pic of my '48, shes gone now but I love that era of the F1's!!
Subscribed
173111

mkassab

09-28-2022, 06:50 AM

A few more items showed up yesterday.

In the first pic below, it shows the Air Bag parts I bought. As I said in my intro above, I intend to do some light towing (and to be on the safe side), I'm going to fabricate some mounting brackets and install an air bag system. The psi gauge, on/off switch and pressure relief valve will be taken apart from the under the dash mount from the factory and I'll install into the center console I'll have to fabricate. Based on all the pictures of the truck frame and the rear end I've seen, I'll have the room needed to install the air bags. I have a trailer hitch that's meant to bolt onto a OEM track frame that I'll cut up/modify to work on the "35 truck frame/body. I also have an electric brake module and 7-pin socket I'll be installing and will provide more info on all that later. The air compressor enclosure will most like go under a seat or truck bed (all TBD).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173131&d=1664363029

Also arriving were some other misc parts. Going clockwise starting at the 12:00 position are some misc electrical USB plugs. I'll also install a standard 12v cig socket. I also plan to install a power outlet above the windshield.... I plan to install several items that will need power in that area, e.g., review mirror that's self dimming with a backup camera display in the mirror, a forward looking Garmin camera recorder, and a universal garage door opener I'll install into the roof lining I'll be making. At the 2:00 position are the leather straps and associated hardware for the hood hold down, door pulls and stops (I've already put high quality leather treatment on the leather to help withstand exposure to rain/sun/elements. At the 6:00 position is two 25' rolls of a nickel/copper alloy for the 3/16" brake lines. What makes this type of brake line desirable is it's ability to withstand corrosion and it's workability. At the 9:30 position is the rollbar mountable fire extinguisher (thanks Paul for the idea) and lastly at 11:00 are two iPhone doc stations. Not only can I charge the phones, but I'll use the phone for GPS/Navigation. My radio will also support hands free use of the phone via Bluetooth connection or wired via the radio USB port.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173130&d=1664363003

More to follow

Thx Mark

orangecruz

09-30-2022, 03:05 AM

Hey mark just read the f150 build and the impala. looking forward to tagging along on this one

mkassab

09-30-2022, 09:04 AM

Just a quick update.... I received the windshield wiper and washer systems.

First picture is the Deluxe windshield wiper system I bought from Speedway. I believe the "thing" that makes it deluxe is the variable speed/pause wiper switch with push button washer function. I also bought the upgraded CNC aluminum wiper arms.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173190&d=1664545618

The next picture below is the actual washer fluid bottle/pump, hoses and directional squirt nozzles. I have no idea where I'll mount this, but I want to hide it as much as possible while still easily access able for refills and service.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173191&d=1664545637

Lastly, I received a notice from UPS of the pending delivery of the Aluminum hood side panels vents.... I'll share them once received.

Thx Mark

mkassab

10-05-2022, 06:35 AM

A few more items showed up yesterday.

First up, I received my engine side cover vents. I had then clear anodized which should help with preventing corrosion. These will allow the small engine compartment to dissipate some heat and I think they look good and period correct. I also plan on wrapping the headers/exhaust pipes and shields atop the mufflers (I have this stuff on order also).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173345&d=1664967640

This last pic shows two products, 1) Lizard Skin, a heat and sound proofing system with spray gun, and 2) Raptor protective coating and spray gun (like truck bed liner). I'll spray the Lizard Skin in the cab (e.g., cab body, floor, door interiors and firewall). I may also do the underside of the hood and engine side covers. For the Raptor product, I'll spray the underside of the 4 fenders and running boards. I'll most likely also spray the underside of both the floor pans and truck bed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173346&d=1664967768

Stay tune, "stuff" coming in each day/week.
Mark

Salty Chief 35

10-05-2022, 09:45 AM

Seems like you’re already ready to roll. This is going to be a really fun ride as you document your build.
Respectfully,
Jeremie

mkassab

10-06-2022, 09:34 AM

In this post, I'll share my intent and thoughts why. Some of the parts in the picture below I've had laying around the shop and I plan to incorporate them into my '35 build.

At the 12:00 position, is a radiator I'll use for oil cooling. The fan at the 9:00 position will draw cold air over the oil radiator. The fan will be triggered from my Dakota Digital cooling fan controller. The Dakota Digital cooling fan controller can operate two fans and can be set with a "turn-on" temp. Fan 1 will trigger my front coolant radiator fan while Fan 2 will trigger the oil cooling fan. I'll mount this oil radiator/fan somewhere under the truck bed.

At the 3:00 position is a oil flow block thermostat. When the oil temp is below the thermostats "Open" setting, the oil from the engine will just loop back and return to the engine. Since I'm going to use a Coyote engine, it will have a remote oil filter adaptor..... therefore, the output from the engine oil will run to the remote oil filter. The output from the remote oil filter will run to the oil thermostat block and then the return output of the oil thermostat will run back to the engine (refer to the diagram I drew up below). Once the oil temp exceeds the temp sensor's setting, the thermostat opens, it will route oil to the oil radiator, then back to the oil thermostat and back to the engine. The oil thermostat block will also house the oil temp sensor that a gauge in the cab will display the oil temp (note it's installed in the picture).

Regarding the gas "return line" radiator at the 6:00 position in the picture, I'll install a bypass with 3 On/Off ball valves (again, note the diagram below). This is probably not required, but I had it and will use it and install close to the gas tank under the truck bed.

At the 4:30 position, are two LED backup lights and the bracket that attaches to the hitch receiver I'll install. This way, the backup lights will not only work as normal backup lights, but I also install a switch that I can turn them on while the truck is off or in neutral to illuminate the trailer hitch area.

In the center of the picture, are two more items.... a radiator cap thermometer and a lockable gas fill tank cap. My hope is I can mount the gas filler on the side of the truck bed vs through the truck bed wood floor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173406&d=1665054484

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173408&d=1665061749

More to come,

Mark

mkassab

10-12-2022, 05:18 AM

I thought I'd share a few more items that came in:

1. Windshield mounted rearview mirror with built in display for the included rear camera. The mirror is also auto dimming. I'm not sure where I'll mount the camera as I'll have to try a few locations when building the truck.
2. Electric Brake controller with variable brake pressure and a 7-pin trailer connector
3. Third brake light. I'll mount to the rear cab above the window. This LED unit has the "red" 3rd Brake light in center and two outside "white" bed lights. I'll connect the bed lights to the separate "Ignition only" +12v hot source with a lite switch.

Hopefully my wheels and seats will come soon. The Dakota Digital (DD) main gauge cluster (pic below from DD web site) is backordered until Jan 2023.

With all the supply chain issues, one has to order "stuff" well in advance..... just nuts!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173646&d=1665567157
Pic above shows the rearview mirror and camera, elec brake controller, 7-pin socket for trailer and the 3rd Brake light

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173647&d=1665568933
Here is the main gauge cluster I ordered from Dakota Digital (DD). I ordered the dark face one as shown. The center screen can display a lot of different items from all the Dakota Digital addon modules I ordered, e.g., Cruise Control, compass, outside temp, info from the Coyote engine controller OBD II interface module, GPS digital speed, Tire pressure from the TPMS, etc. I'll document more during the build and installation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173648&d=1665568963
Lastly, the DD has the ability for me to change colors for the backlighting.... here's just one night color.

More to follow....

Mark

mkassab

10-16-2022, 08:23 AM

I already bought the Vintage Gen II evaporator and the Dakota Digital Automatic controller (see pics below). I'll also purchase AC kit from FF but won't use the evaporator or manual controls that comes with it.

I did document some of this in a separate thread, but I wanted to include it in my build thread for anyone following along to see a complete picture of the build.

Here's the head unit that controls the A/C & Heat for the set temp.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173771&d=1665835225

In the pic below, the entire Dakota Digital DCC-2200 module package is shown.... 3 air temp sensors, one temp prob that goes into the evaporator, fan control module for the evaporator fan, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173770&d=1665835161

Thanks, Mark

edwardb

10-16-2022, 08:33 AM

mkassab

10-16-2022, 09:03 AM

Nice. That's true OE level with the automatic climate control.

Yes, it sure is. And this Dakota Digital unit is specific to the Vintage Gen II evaporator and heater control module.

mkassab

10-23-2022, 02:12 PM

I decided to go with a Manual Transmission, Tremec T56. In doing my research, I'm going with the Model 11011 which has the 2.97 1st gear ratio and a .5 ratio in 6th gear/Overdrive. This should be well suited for the Coyote engine and the Moser 3.55 rear end/differential combo.

One thing I found about this transmission is it has a Reverse Gear lockout solenoid. To open the solenoid to allow for the shifter to get the transmission into reverse requires a +12v input to the lockout solenoid. Some opt to remove the reverse gear lockout like a "normal" manual transmission.... but, I understand 5th and Reverse gears are very close, therefore, the reason the lockout was put there by Tremec. I also read where some hook the brake light to this lockout solenoid, but that means the solenoid is exercised every time the brake is pressed... this is not a good option for me. So, I chose a gear shift knob with a push button switch. I'm going with the Hurst shift knob pictured below. I'll power the shifter switch from the output of the brake light switch (see diagram below) that will feed the +12v to the lockout solenoid. So to put the trans into reverse, I'll have to press the brake, press the red button on the shift knob then put shifter into reverse.... Clean and simple solution.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174011&d=1666534411

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174012&d=1666534428

Regarding the alternator, A Honda Civic alternator or clone must be used. Honda alternators basically come in 70 Amps size and must run counter clockwise (CCW). I did fine one rated for 80 AMP....

Then, I discovered this alternator to be a direct replacement for the Honda alternator that is CCW and rated for 160 AMPs. I just received it last week. It came with all the test data sheets showing the volts and amps by RPM. The alternator spins around 3 to 4 times more RPMs than the engine RPM due to its smaller pulley.

I bought this alternator from Alterstart Systems, Inc. out of Dallas, TX https://www.ebay.com/itm/202482284648

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173974&d=1666361789

Thanks for following along for the ride. More parts coming soon.

Mark

edwardb

10-23-2022, 04:09 PM

I assume you know there's another option for the T-56 reverse lockout, although you didn't list it. American Powertrain has a module (their part number ELUN-10013) that senses speed via the transmission's built-in speed sensor and activates the relay allowing reverse only when you're not in motion. So you have nothing to do. It's automatic and seamless. Have one in my Daytona Coupe and it works perfectly. Highly recommended. I don't know that the reason Tremec installed the reverse lockout function has anything to do with how close reverse is to 5th. Lots of other transmission have similar combinations. What it does is completely "closes the gate" past the 5th and 6th shift path. As long as the lockout is active, you can be as aggressive as you want moving the shifter that direction and 5th is always up and 6th is always down. No chance of getting into the reverse gear. It's nice. I like it a lot.

As for the T-56 ratios, I have the 2.66 1st and .63 6th in my Coupe, although with a 3.73 diff. Also a Coyote. I'm very happy with the combination. Wouldn't change anything. Ran the numbers for your combination (https://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php) and even with the 3.55 diff, your choice seems a little short for me in 1st and long in 5th and 6th. Mine runs out of 1st quickly, and so will yours. The Coyote loves to rev. At the very least, you may want to consider the 2.97 1st version. As for 6th, granted .50 will give you a nice low RPM at highway speeds. Maybe too low? You may find yourself shifting out of 6th when the speed reduces a bit. Again, the Coyote loves to rev and is very smooth and quiet even at 2,000+. A slightly higher 5th also gives you a nice mid-range cruise ratio when less than highway speeds. No wrong answers because the Coyote is very flexible and with a flat torque curve. But thought I'd share my experience.

Just 1 More

10-23-2022, 04:20 PM

This is where I got my T56 reverse lock out module and I can attest, it works.
https://www.wirebarn.com/T56--TR6060-Reverse-Lockout-Control-Module_p_470.html

mkassab

10-23-2022, 04:44 PM

mkassab

11-08-2022, 09:48 AM

Well, I pulled the trigger and made a really big Summit Racing order, $21k+ to purchase the Coyote, Tremex T56 six speed manual trans, Engine control module, QuickTime bell housing, Tilton billet Dual dick clutch, Tilton Billet fly wheel, Tilton Hydraulic Throw-out bearing electric, starter, 304 SS exhaust parts to have the exhaust exit the rear of the truck bed, 304 SS "H" pipe for the exhaust, electric emergency brake (I'll delete the hand e-brake) and lots of misc. things. I'll report out on all that when it starts to come in. My WiseGuy leather bucket seats should be here soon and I'm still waiting on the wheels. I also order some parts from Factory Five that should be hear soon, e.g., Coyote A/C package, Moser rear end, Wilwood Brakes, Coyote engine install kit, etc.

Pic 1 below shows the garage door opener I'll install. I'll fabricate an upper front roof panel to hold the opener, clock and a few more items (e.g., switches, gauges) to help keep the dash cleaner. More on all that later.

Pic 2 below SS Tie-Down loops.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174013&d=1666534549

Pic 2 shows the polished stainless steel (marine grade) tie down loops. I'll attached one to each corner of the wood bed. My wood bed will be fabricated in such a way so I can lift it out of the bed after I release some attachment points. I also want to try to have the gas fill cap located on the right rear bed side panel to keep the wood bed "whole" and without anything attached to it except the SS tie downs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174014&d=1666534667

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

11-11-2022, 01:43 PM

I received my Coyote Gen 3 engine and T-56 Tremec 6 spd transmission yesterday. It's a great day. I also received lots of other parts....

Thx Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174776&d=1668191635

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174778&d=1668191680

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174777&d=1668191652

mkassab

11-17-2022, 09:22 AM

Well, my Tilton package showed up last night.... i.e, Tilton's kit with billet chromium flywheel and ST-246 twin disc clutch for the Gen 3 Coyote engine and I also ordered the Tilton Hydraulic throw-out bearing for the Tremec T-56 6-speed transmission. This is quality stuff and all parts on CNC'd milled billet and Zero stamped steel. The Clutch and flywheel are specific to each other (and specific to the Coyote) with a raised lip on the flywheel to center the clutch housing to (the video below shows this clearly shows this)...... I've used the Tilton throw-out bearing before, but never the flywheel/clutch kit. It has great reviews with a very "streetable" clutch disc organic compound with ~850ft-lb torque load.

Here's a video on the product: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7UaqlotALc&t=163s

First pic below is the throw-out bearing for the T-56 trans followed by flywheel/twin disc clutch for the Gen 3 Coyote

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175004&d=1668692915

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175002&d=1668692853

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175001&d=1668692462

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175001&d=1668692462

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175000&d=1668692405

mkassab

11-22-2022, 10:02 AM

After cleaning the Tilton Billet Chromoly Flywheel, I mounted it to the crankshaft with the Tilton supplied ARP bolts torqued to 70 ftlb. I also installed a Ford Performance needle bearing pilot bearing.

The pic below shows the Ford Performance Needle Pilot Bearing installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175336&d=1669128305

Here, I'm ensuring the flywheel clutch surface is square to the QuickTime bellhousing mounting flange the Tremec T56 6spd manual trans will mount to. It was well within spec at only 2 thousandth (.002") out
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175326&d=1669127541

As I tighten the Tilton twin disc ST-246 Billet clutch assembly down to the flywheel @ 1/4 turn on each mounting bolt at a time, to ensure even square mounting, this picture shows the point with the clutch centering tabs aligning with the flywheel's centering ridge ring.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175330&d=1669127638

In this shot, the tabs are now seated and flush with the flywheel and torqued to 35 ftlb.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175331&d=1669127656

Clutch fully mounted and torqued
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175332&d=1669127681

More to follow,
Mark

mkassab

11-22-2022, 10:26 AM

Once the clutch was installed, I then checked to ensure the crank & clutch where centered relative to the bellhousing/trans mounting flange. I then rotated the crank and the measurements again were well withing spec at only .002" out. This ensures the trans input shaft and the crank/clutch were in spec and aligned properly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175327&d=1669127563

With the Tilton ST-246 clutch and the Tremec T56 part 11010, I had to trim the trans pilot tube from around the input shaft by 1/2".

Before trimming, here's the process I used to verify the measurements.

First, I measured the length of the pilot tube from the mounting face of the trans.... it's ~3"
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175328&d=1669127590

Then I measured the distance from the bellhousing mount face to the top of the first clutch disc... it's ~2.3"
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175329&d=1669127608

So the next step was to cut/shorten the pilot tube by 1/2" to ensure a gap from the end of the pilot tube to the clutch disc. Starting cut here with a cutoff wheel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175333&d=1669127699

Pilot tube cut. I did some light filing to remove any burrs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175335&d=1669127746

I'll be installing Tilton's Hydraulic Throw-out Bearing, starter and trans after the holiday and I'll post pics soon after.

Happy Thanksgiving to all..... we're off to your youngest sons house for the holiday in the Tampa FL area.
Mark

Salty Chief 35

11-22-2022, 10:28 PM

You’ll be in my neck of the woods. Enjoy your trip.
Respectfully,
Jeremie

mkassab

12-02-2022, 01:25 PM

I've finished the clutch, trans, engine and starter install. To complete it, I installed the Tilton Hydraulic throw-bearing to the output shaft of the Tremec T-56 6-spd transmission.... aftermeasuring the distance from the Trans mounting face to the clutches' fingers (~3"), you subtract .125" (1/8") for clearance from the bearing face to the clutch fingers. Once this was completed, I mounted the trans to the engine bellhousing.

Pic 1 shows the inside the bellhousing... i.e., throw-out bearing and clutch face/fingers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176231&d=1670004478

This shot shows the two hydraulic lines coming from the throw-out bearing... the top one is the blead line and the bottom one with the red dust cap is where the master cylinder for the clutch will connect to.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176232&d=1670004579

Full side shot of trans/end
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176233&d=1670004597

Lastly, the Ford Performance mini starter is installed..... I learned a lesson here... There are two starters for the Coyote engine.... a two hole mount for Auto Trans and a 3 hole mount for manual trans. I've never seen any other engine family with two different starters based on installed transmission.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176234&d=1670004622

Wheels and seats have been delivered.... pictures to follow soon.

Thx Mark

mkassab

12-10-2022, 07:21 AM

I received my wheels, wheel trim rings and V8 stamped hub caps from WheelSmith. Quality and service are both very high. I had WheelSmith powder coat the wheels and trim rings. The hub caps are heavy polished stainless steel with a stamped V8. I wanted the stamped V8 to match the gloss black powder coated trim rings to pull it all together. I still plan to pin strip the rims and I'll post that later.

First, I scuffed up the V8 part of the hub cap. I found that jeweler files worked best..... if I used sand paper or Dremel attachments I risked scratching the other area of the hub cap. Once I have all four hub caps scuffed, I cleaned with Acetone.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176574&d=1670673353

I used Gloss Black Signs Painters 1Shot lettering/pin strip enamel paint. It flowed out well and covered in one heavy coat. As usual, the camera highlights the reflections that the naked eye doesn't see..... i.e., looks much better in person. Once paint fully cures, I'll polish and put a good coat of polymer "wax" like I'll used on the complete body paint. Zaino is my favorite product.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176575&d=1670673381

Here's 2 pictures showing the stack of 4 wheels with Hub Cap, trim ring just sitting on top for a "visual".
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176578&d=1670673506

and a close up pic
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176576&d=1670673399

Stay tune, much more to follow.
Thx Mark

Salty Chief 35

12-10-2022, 08:04 AM

Sweet!
Respectfully,
Jeremie

mkassab

12-11-2022, 10:41 AM

OK.... for those that want to try pin-striping themselves.... it's very easy with the Beugler pin-striping tool. It comes with various size pin-strip widths and even double pin-strip wheels..... Again, crazy easy to use and get pretty professional results. Below you'll see the wheels I just did. I cleaned the outer rim of the powder coated wheels with pre paint cleaner and Isopropyl Alcohol. I used Tan Sign Painters 1Shot enamel paint and no thinners. The tool comes with adjustable guide bars. I use one to ride the outside of the rim while painting pin-strip 1. For pin-strip 2, I removed the guide bar and just kept the tool riding against the inside lip of the rim. I also bought a 12" Lazy Susan at Lowes, laid a piece of plywood on the Lazy Susan while I held my hand still with the tool and rotated the wheel clockwise with my left hand. I'll also use this Beugler tool to pin-strip the beltline on the cab and hood. For more info on the Beugler, check out YouTube videos as it does all sorts of things I can't get into.

First two pictures are me doing pin-strip 1
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176615&d=1670772373

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176616&d=1670772388

Pics 3 and 4 show the second pin-strip being applied.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176617&d=1670772406

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176618&d=1670772427

Last picture shows a completed wheel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176619&d=1670772445

More to come

Mark

Namrups

12-11-2022, 11:19 AM

Looks great!

Lew

12-11-2022, 11:27 AM

Looks good Mark

mkassab

12-12-2022, 09:06 AM

Looks great!

Thx Scott

mkassab

12-12-2022, 09:07 AM

Thx Lew! How's your build coming?

Mark

wallace18

12-12-2022, 10:54 AM

Super job on the wheels!:cool:

mkassab

12-13-2022, 07:28 AM

Super job on the wheels!:cool:

Thanks

mkassab

12-14-2022, 07:53 AM

This post shows the bucket seats I custom ordered from WiseGuy Seats (inspired by Paul I might add). They are black leather with Emerald Green stitching to highlight my "Green" theme. They recline and I ordered them with power lumbar and electric heaters in the seat and back. As you'll see in the photos, WiseGuys preinstalled the switches for the lumbar and heaters in front of the seats. My thoughts now are to deinstall the switches from the seat and place in the console I'll build.

Lastly, My Moser Rear-End differential I pre-ordered from Factory Five came in yesterday. I'll be getting this uncrated and install my Moser Diff cover with end-cap bearing support (more on this later).

This first picture is sideways.... it was correct for the upload, but once loaded in the photo album, it turned and I can't get it back upright.... so tilt your head left for this one. ;)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176748&d=1671019648

Here's a closeup of the emerald green stitching.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176749&d=1671019668

Closeup of the electric switches for the power lumbar and electric seat heaters.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176747&d=1671019624

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176746&d=1671019605

Lastly, the crated Moser rear-end. I used my engine crane to get it into the garage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176750&d=1671019685

Thx Mark

mkassab

12-19-2022, 07:31 AM

I uncrated the Moser Rear-End and hosted up and out with my engine crane. I bought an attachment for my engine stand that held the rear-end horizontal (see pic 1 below).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176924&d=1671449601

After mounted on the stand, I rotated it to have the chrome diff cover that came with the rear-end point up for easy removal. The cover was surprisingly pretty heavy stamped steel (which was nice to see). Anyway, the gasket under the cover also had RTV silicon used on both sides of the gasket. So, I scraped it all off, cleaned up some of the powder coating that blead over to the face of the machined matting surface so all was smooth and flat. I cleaned the surface with Acetone and then applied my black RTV under and on top of the gasket (pic 2 below). If anyone does this, make sure your RTV bead is on the inside of the bolt holes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176926&d=1671450262

In the next pic below, I have the new Moser heavy aluminum cover mounted with snugged down mounting bolts. Before mounting the new cover, I backed out the End-Cap bearing support lugs all the way out and applied pipe sealer to the threads per the instructions to help eliminate any gear oil seepage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176927&d=1671450285

Then I torqued down the Moser cover to 25 ft/lbs per the instructions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176928&d=1671450302

Lastly, after torquing all the mounting bolts, I then torqued down the bearing end-cap lugs (i.e., load bolts) against the end caps to 5 ft/lbs. Once that was completed, I then installed the jam nuts on the bearing cap lugs and torqued to 10 ft/lbs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176929&d=1671450319

With the new cover in place and every nut and bolt torqued down to specifications, I then added 4oz of Ford's Posi-Traction friction modifier followed by ~2.5 gts of Lucas HD High Perf 80W-90 gear oil (non-synthetic oil). I'll break-in the rear-end per Moser's instructions then after ~500 miles, I'll change oil to a synthetic gear oil.

Thanks all,

Mark

mkassab

01-19-2023, 08:30 AM

Quick update.... My Dakota Digital TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) arrived. This system will integrate into the Dakota Digital Instrument cluster (still waiting for backordered unit to arrive) for TPMS monitoring and alerts.

This first picture shows the contents of the TPMS package:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178296&d=1674134381

The next two are simply the valve stem units installed on the 4 wheels. Initially, each unit has a specific wheel location, i.e., RF, LF, RR and LR. If tires are rotated, I can update their wheel location on the main instrument unit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178297&d=1674134400

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178298&d=1674134420

I'm not having much to do now.... just waiting for the April delivery. I'll make updates as appropriate.

Thx Mark

mkassab

03-10-2023, 12:41 PM

Very good news for me.... Factory Five Dan Golub contacted me to confirm my order and pickup for 3 Apr. I contacted Stewart Transport for pickup/delivery.... so fingers crossed I receive my '35 extended cab truck in the 1st or 2nd week of April

Mark

mkassab

03-13-2023, 08:43 AM

I pre-ordered some FF parts before the actual '35 kit delivery, i.e., Diff, front and rear WilWood brakes, Gen 3 Coyote install kit, and the A/C kit. I'm really glad I did... since I ordered them back in Nov 2022 and I'm still waiting on the rear brake kit and several missing parts, e.g., brackets, A/C compressor, A/C dryer, hoses, etc.

The first picture is the Alternator bracket. I first cleaned the bracket to remove all oils, then prepped it with phosphoric acid to etch it (it also leaves behind a Phosphorous/Zinc coating that helps prevent rust and acts as a great base for primer/paint. Then I primed with an acid etching primer (3 coats) followed by a metallic silver top coat (3 coats).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181504&d=1678713776

For the aluminum spacers to stand0off the alt bracket from the engine's timing cover I cleaned and etched as above, then coated with several layers of clearcoat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181506&d=1678713814

In pic 3 and 4, the 160amp alternator is installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181505&d=1678713797

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181507&d=1678713836

The kit also included a new pulley that replaced the Ford OEM pulley (top one) and a new belt tensioner (bottom)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181508&d=1678713853

Up next I'll be installing the WilWood front hubs to the rotors and safety wiring them.... more on that later.

Stay tune.... much more to follow now with the '35 truck kit arrival in early April.

Mark

mkassab

03-16-2023, 08:43 AM

Another mile stone reached yesterday...... Sally from Factory Five requested final payment for the Apr 1 order ready date. It's now paid and I can't wait for the delivery from Stewart Transport.

Also, as I stated earlier, I preordered last Nov 2022 some items, i.e., Moser diff, front and rear Wilwood big brake kits, etc. Well, I did receive the front WilWoods and have assembled the front hub caps to the rotors. Not the most fun job adding the safety wire to the bolts.... but it's now done. Prior to the safety wire, per WilWood directions, I added a drop of LocTite 271 and torqued each bolt to 155 inch lb. They were very specific to use a 1/4" drive torque wench..... and I see why as 155 inch lb is = to 12.9 ft lb which is a little over hand tight (well maybe a little more that hand tight, but not much!)

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181621&d=1678973865

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181622&d=1678973882

THUNDERSTRUCK

03-16-2023, 07:47 PM

edwardb

03-16-2023, 08:44 PM

Lots of interesting things going on with this build. Very nice. The seats from WiseGuys look great. I'm really happy with mine but they do take up a little extra space in the standard cab. Yours should be perfect with the new extended cab. Since I'm going through paint right now with mine, I had to laugh a little (to myself of course) at the added colors and pinstriping you're planning for your final paint. My painter is not happy about all the details and amount of hand work to sand and polish. I've been helping so he's been a little less grouchy. :p

mkassab

03-17-2023, 05:39 AM

Mark
You may want to check this out. Not me but a build I have been checking out while making plans

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkKe8-D3-es&list=PLTILmSHO24yiILsR51jXcGrmfQXSCXgiM&index=64&t=603s

Thanks Thunderstruck..... I was planning to do a truck side install for the gas fill.... I'll have to look for the flex gas filler hose.
Mark

mkassab

03-17-2023, 05:42 AM

tuckin22

03-22-2023, 07:39 AM

Looking forward to build.

mkassab

03-23-2023, 10:44 AM

As mentioned previously, I have received my wheels then installed Dakota Digital TPMS sensors/valve stems. I then ordered and received my tires yesterday. I chose Michelin Primacy Tour A/S Run Flat Tires size 245/45-R18 96V. The reason for the run flats is the '35 truck doesn't carry a spare tire and I didn't want to carry a spare in the bed.... so Run Flats fit this build perfectly.

Now the "special" way to balance. I bought my wheels from Wheel Smith. When the wheels arrived, there was a large orange sticker on each wheel saying to Lug hole balance ONLY (i.e., do NOT center hole balance). Luckily, my local tire place, i.e, Charlies Tire in Brevard, NC, had the lug balance accessary to do the job. See pic 1 below

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181961&d=1679585030

The next two pictures show how it's used on the balance machine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181959&d=1679584988

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181960&d=1679585010

Then a couple misc pics

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181962&d=1679585061

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181963&d=1679585082

Up next... I'm reviewing Paul's (aka edwardB) Electric spreadsheet and making changes to reflect my build's electrical requirements.

Mark

mkassab

03-27-2023, 02:17 PM

Today, FedEx delivered my rear WilWood brake kit. I installed them on the Moser rear end.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182163&d=1679944324

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182164&d=1679944342

But, I do have a question on the emergency brake setup I posted in the '35 truck "non-build section".... link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45658-Help-needed-on-Rear-WilWood-brake-emergency-cable-setup

Hopefully someone can help me out with your thoughts/direction.

Thx Mark

RuffShod

03-28-2023, 07:16 AM

mkassab

03-29-2023, 05:41 AM

Those look like they take up less space than the Mustang brakes. My Mustang brakes hit the inside of my wheel. I had to use spacers. I hate spacers.

RuffShod, from my understanding all '35 trucks, regardless of brake brand, needs 1"+ wheel spacers for the front and rear. I can't verify that until I get enough of my suspension built to mount my wheels for fitment and clearance. Once I can actually try the wheel mounting, I can then determine the the thickness of needed wheel spacers. I'll post my findings in this build thread.

Mark

mkassab

03-30-2023, 05:33 AM

DonS

03-30-2023, 02:46 PM

Mark, my truck is scheduled for completion April 8. Maybe we’ll be on the same delivery truck. Can’t wait to get started. DonS

edwardb

03-30-2023, 08:41 PM

Well, while I was looking into the rotation of the WilWood emergency brake leavers I did figure out that they can be rotated. (Ref previous post above)

I just removed the 13mm nut from the stud holding the moveable leaver and used a small prybar to gently pry off the emergency brake leaver. The stud has the male side of a splines with the leaver having the female splines as the picture below clearly shows.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182237&d=1680170924

So, since I did had the left side apart, I went ahead and rotated the left side emergency brake leaver and cable standoff counterclockwise two screw holes. As you can see, a two hole rotation moved the emergency cable from the 6 o:clock to the ~5 o:clock position. Once I have the rear-end and truck bed sides installed, I'll rotate further is needed. By doing this, the cable sweeping bend will be less then 90* and less likely to lay on the control arms.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182238&d=1680170941

I finished up by rotating the right side clockwise two screw holes to match the left side.

Lastly, I received another item I ordered last August 2022..... i.e., my Dakota Digital main speedo, tach, fuel, oil, water temp and volt main instrument cluster I ref'd early on in this post on page 1.

So with many pieces of the "build" puzzle coming together, all I need is the main '35 truck kit.... hopefully next week. I'm just waiting to hear a firmer date from Stewart Transport.

Stay tune.... so much more coming soon.

Thx Mark

Good find on the Wilwood e-brake adjustment. Thanks for posting the details. I played with mine some today. Bored waiting for the last few parts to be back from the painter I guess. It works exactly as you described. With the locking screw and nut removed, was able to pry mine off and try softening the 90 degree angle my cables are at. As it turns out, since I have the cables routed and tied down, wouldn't naturally rotate without putting additional strain on the cables and I really didn't want to re-do the whole setup. Had I noticed the adjustment possibility before (or you posted this about a year ago :o) I might have done it a bit differently. But mine work fine as is, so put it back the way it was. For the record, even at the angle mine are at, they aren't close to the lower control arms. So that's not an issue. Regardless of angle, you may find they interfere a bit with the bed sides. I relieved the bottom of the bed sides a bit on mine so they weren't rubbing hard against them. Not noticeable because it's on the underside plus I have fenders.

mkassab

04-06-2023, 12:01 PM

One of my last back order item from my kit "pre-ordered" items came yesterday... i.e, the Ford A/C compressor. Per the install manual, some aluminum parts of the body of the compressor need trimmed/modified to fit once the compressor is installed after the engine is in the frame and the front suspension control arms are mounted. The issue is the FF control arm will hit the compressor if these mods aren't made.

First, the large bump out lug mount needs cut off.... not the black lines within the red circle highlight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182604&d=1680800000

Next, I used my cordless Makita band saw to cut off the lug (one of my most useful and favorite tools I might add)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182597&d=1680799001

After cut

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182598&d=1680799014

Lastly, needed to cut out the chamfer ... see red circle. This last cut is to eliminate the control arm interference issue. I used my Dremel with a metal cutoff wheel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182605&d=1680800019

I'll do my final check once the kit / frame arrives, engine installed and right side control are in place.

Note: Kit delivery now looking like late next week, ~ 4/13 or later.

Mark

mkassab

04-16-2023, 03:56 AM

Big day yesterday.... my July 2022 order was delivered. Mark from Stewart Transport was great.... and I met him at the entrance to my development. It's an exciting time seeing the 18 wheeler pulling in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183061&d=1681634019

And it's even a greater excitement when Mark actually parked at the end of my driveway:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183065&d=1681634412

Then the sight of seeing my order waiting to be offloaded along with 40+ boxes, all the fiberglass body parts and the frame assembly with my name on it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183062&d=1681634064

Last item off the truck, in my garage and on the lift ready to be worked on:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183063&d=1681634101

Finally, the Factory Five logoed truck and trailer driving off to a delivery in Atlanta and three more in Florida.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183064&d=1681634155

Now, Today, Sunday, Apr 16th, 2023, is the detailed task of inventorying all the parts and pieces in all the boxes.

So stay tuned for a very detailed documented build with lots of pictures along the build process. If anyone needs more info or questions or "why" did I do that?, ask away.

Thanks Mark

mkassab

04-17-2023, 05:07 AM

Here's a quick update. I've completed the inventory of all the parts, pieces, nuts and bolts.... there's a lot of "stuff" here. My POL list isn't as bad as I thought it would be. I think FF owns stock in paper and cardboard as they pack this all very well. I'll be making a dump run this morning.

Here's a few pics of some of the "inventory".

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183082&d=1681724748

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183081&d=1681724727

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183080&d=1681724709

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183079&d=1681724682

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183078&d=1681724666

I'll get the fiberglass body parts washed today. I also have plastic bins and shelves I'll place many of the parts you see.

Now, I need to plan better the order I want to do the build in taking into account all the modifications and additions I want to make. Better planning now will save a lot of headaches later.

My wife and I have a planned week in Pensacola, FL area next week. In some of my downtime, I'll work the priority list, read the install manual in detail, take notes, etc. I also want to add to Factory Fives wire diagrams for all my additions to the diagram. I do a lot of extra electrical "sub (fuse) panels" like Paul B does. Keep the wires as neat as possible and remove or shorten what's not needed. All along the way, keeping in mind future needs, changes, maintenance, trouble shotting, and access if the need arises.

Lastly, now that I have good measurements for the bed, I'll be contacting BedWood ( https://bedwood.com/ )to order the wood and metal needed. I've decided on Black Walnut lumber.... it will be a nice contrast with the light green body paint I'm going with.

Stay tuned,
Mark

RuffShod

04-17-2023, 07:05 AM

Put everything back in the box it came in.

You will thank me later.

Have fun!!!

mkassab

04-17-2023, 07:31 AM

"Put everything back in the box it came in.

You will thank me later.

Have fun!!!"

Too late.... all boxes were broken down and I just returned from the dump.

However, I labeled each bag/part with the box #.... e.g., everything from box 5 has a 5 on it and all group/stored together.

So I won't have any trouble fining anything and without the room being taken up by boxes.

Thx Mark

mkassab

04-25-2023, 06:00 AM

Now that the inventory is complete and my detailed MIK (Missing parts List) is itemized and sent off to FF, I'm starting the chassis build. I plan to add/fabricate some options that will require welding, etc. to the frame. I'll document all that as I do it.

First up I laid out the floor panels, starting with the bottom ones. Used some hand clamps to hold in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183503&d=1682418752

Then, from inside the cab, I traced out the frame on to the bottom panels

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183504&d=1682418771

I then proceeded to remove the bottom panels and do the top panels the same way.

Next, I started to prep the rear end so I can get it mounted and installed for some of my mods. First, the adaptor plate. Before install, I primed with acid etching primer. Following the instructions, added some blue LocTite.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183505&d=1682418811

Then torqued to 41 ft lbs. To hold the flange adaptor in place to torque, I installed the 4 remaining bolts that will be used to attach the drive shift that allowed me to use a lever and torque wrench at the same time. This worked well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183506&d=1682418826

Then, my first issue. My next step was to mount the lower and upper control arms. On the lower control arms (LCA), the bushings and sleeve were preinstalled at FF. Problem is, the sleeve inside diameter is 12mm but the mounting bolt and bracket are 14mm. Based on other threads, this is a repeating problem and not unique to my LCAs. So I added new 14mm bushings and sleeve to my MIK list and notified FF. I'll have a temp fix for my mockup and use some 7/16" bolts to attached the LCAs to the rear end brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183507&d=1682418846

Two of the mods I'll work on next will be relocating the attachment points for the Panhard bar... I have to move the Panhard bar towards the rear to allow clearance for the Moser diff cap I installed and I have to mockup/weld the airbags to the axels and frame.

more coming up soon,
Mark

RuffShod

04-25-2023, 07:20 AM

They make an adaptor to move the panhard bar.

I will find it.

RuffShod

04-25-2023, 07:21 AM

https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-panhard-relocation-bracket-red-0514.html?utm_content=Handling%20-%20Panhard%20Bars%7CBMR&T5_Var4=390586&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&utm_campaign=AMM+Mustang+Vehicle+Medium+LTVTop&T5_Var3=blue&intl=0&dialogtech=ppc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5Nq0tYLF_gIVcY1bCh3nvwgWEAQYAiAB EgJNCvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

mkassab

04-25-2023, 09:15 AM

They make an adaptor to move the panhard bar.

I will find it.

Thanks.... I'll check it out..... but may not needed it.

Mark

mkassab

04-26-2023, 05:48 AM

Quick update....

Yesterday was an "Odds and ends" day. First, I tapped the bushing cylinders for the grease fittings. All were pre-drilled by FF. According to FF, you just use the grease fitting to thread them in?? I didn't like that.... so I determined the zerk grease fittings were metric M7 x 1.0 thread. So, I tapped each one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183560&d=1682503696

Another thing I do for any build is use a product like Eastwoods Internal Frame coating rust preventer. This stuff is great. Each can comes with an 18" spray tube with a brass 360* spray fitting at the end. So any access (hole, opening, etc) you can feed the spray tube into it, press the spray button and slowly pull the tube out.... thus coating the internals with with "green" rust preventer. I will say FF didn't leave open many access holes to the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183561&d=1682503714

The rear part of the frame has four vertical down 1" sq tubes I coated the inside with the coating. Any holes I create in the frame, like drill holes for wire or hangers/fasteners, etc, I'll apply this coating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183562&d=1682503762

I finished mocking up the rear end and gas tank in preparation to fabricate my air bag base/top plates to the axle (base) and frame (top plate). I'm targeting this install just behind the shocks.... weld the base plate to the axel tube and then fab the upper top plate to the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183563&d=1682503798

In this shot, the gas tank "loosely" in place. I took an ohm reading of the FF supplied fuel tank level sender and got 15.5 ohm empty and 161 ohm full readings. I can then use these reading for my Dakota Digital gauge setup to have actuate fuel level readings. Paul (aka edwardb) confirmed for me that FF uses a Mustang standard sender at a 16-158 ohms range.... so I'm good to go.

Lastly, note the red breather tube on the Diff/rear end axle tube and the gas filter stuck in its end. I always do this gas filter addition to prevent any debris/bugs getting in there. On the final build, I'll mount this to the frame above with the filter pointing down.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183564&d=1682503825

I'm also looking at a stainless steel battery drop down box vs the FF battery location. This way I can use the FF location for something else and have very easy access to the battery without having to remove the bed or cut access holes in the bed.... although the access would be from below the truck which wouldn't be a big deal. I'll take my time here to further consider what I'll do with the exhaust, etc. to avoid and interference issues down the road.

Stay tuned.... busy day ahead.

Thx Mark

mkassab

04-27-2023, 07:55 AM

Yesterday was another misc day..... I spent a lot of time cleaning steel, grinding weld spatter from the FF parts (not too much of that at all), installing the Pro-M Racing Fuel Pump assembly and determining where and how to mount the Air Bags.

Referring to the last picture above in the previous post to this thread, you'll note the fuel pump assembly leaning out of the fuel tank hole where the pump is to be installed. The reason is the return fuel line pipe has a flare out (slight bend out) from the pump body preventing the assembly installation (look closely and you'll clearly see it). I want to point out this is not the pump hanger supplied by FF as it's an aftermarket unit from Pro-M Racing that allows better fuel flow, has AN fittings, and prevents issues the stock Mustang hanger supplied by FF has, namely aeration of the gas. Pro-M have video on this.... here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3osqtEtIEig Pro-M instructions would have you modify the tank opening to allow installation. I didn't want to do that if possible. The picture below shows a closeup of the pipe interference.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183614&d=1682595384

What I did was remove the 4 screws that attached the pump hanger from the top assembly. This allowed me to swing the pump body enough to allow the return pipe to enter the tank. Once the return pipe was inside the tank I simply reattached the pump body back to the top assembly. Here's a closeup of the bracket/top assembly without the screws.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183615&d=1682595404

Once this was done, everything fell in place for final installation.

The last part of this post is documenting the possible placement locations of the air bags. All the parts for the air bag systems I bought separately, i.e., short air bags, universal mounting plates I can cut/modify as needed, air pump, hoses, etc. The picture below shows a location just behind the shock and under the chassis frame with the base place only. This would be a good location except once the weight is on the suspension, it would be too short (i.e., not high enough for all the parts).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183616&d=1682595482

This picture add the top plate to the mix

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183617&d=1682595499

The only other two location would by inboard of the frame or outboard of the frame. Inboard concerns I considered were possible interference of the exhaust (I want to have options for the exhaust.... more on that later). Moving outboard, the concern was the truck side bed room with the bed side and the frame and how to add the top plate and how it would be attached to the frame. The picture below shows if I mount the base plate to the rear of the axel tube I had room in all the areas of concern and I could fabricate the mounting brackets easily. I'll get the base mocked up and welded in place, but will have to wait to fabricate the top sections until I have the weight on the suspension. This outboard location is also optimal for the weight distribution, i.e.,. the closer to the hub the better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183618&d=1682595516

I'm still determining the mounting location for the air compressor. I was thinking inside the cab under the seat, but with all the room above the gas tank I'm rethinking it. Above the tank has other possibilities too, e.g., cooling radiator/fan, storage, tool box, etc under the bed.

So much to do, but I have time... stay tuned.

Any thoughts on the air bag mounting options most welcome.

Thx Mark

mkassab

04-28-2023, 07:00 AM

This is a bit of a boring update, but, an update non the less. And, Yes, I know this one is pretty basic.... but I've had some PMs asking for this sort of thing so newbie beginners to the "Built, Not Bought" get a full picture of what all may be needed.

I haven't installed the front suspension yet because all my steel parts and frame are bare metal (no powder coating) and I didn't want to install bushings, etc. before prep and painting. Therefore, yesterday I spent getting these parts painted so I can move on.

First, using angle grinders, 3M scuff pads and some minor filing, I cleaned up the parts the best I could. I'm not concerned with perfection for two key reasons.... 1) this is a daily driver for me and not a trailer queen show truck and 2) since I'm installing fenders, running board, hood and engine sides most of these parts won't be that viewable.

The next steps were to wash the parts to degrease using POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser. Once that was done, I rinsed with water and blew dry with compressed air. Follow this step, I then used POR-15 Metal Prep. This step is very important and useful. POR-15 (like Eastwood's After Blast) is an acid base product (phosphoric acid) that preforms two key benefits... 1) it etches metal to give paint something to grab hold of and 2) maybe most important, the process leave a phosphorous/zinc coating on the metal that further promotes paint adhesion and helps prevent any rust/oxidation. The picture below shows some parts hanging ready for paint that just went through all these steps (look closely as many parts are lost in the background. I just raised my frame on the lift and hung the parts from the frame).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183661&d=1682679486

Next, using POR-15 Rust Preventative permanent coating, I applied two coats per the instructions. I used a disposal brush... but this product flows out pretty smooth. Again, good enough for my purposes. Note: this product is not UV safe and needs a top coat after a few hours of drying. This pic below shows the results of this step.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183662&d=1682679565

Lastly, I topped coated the POR-15 with Rust-oleum rattle can Hammered Dark Bronze. I applied several coats. Here's the finished product.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183663&d=1682679606

Today, I'll install the bushings & sleeves, grease fittings and install to the frame. I don't have my Koni Dbl Adj shocks yet from FF, so I'll have to devise a way to hold the front struts up until I receive them. From there, I think I'll move on to the firewall and engine/trans install for mockup purposes.

Again, any lessons learned from any of you would be most welcome as I'm just doing what I think best. If there's a better way that would allow "less" rework later I'm all ears.

Thx Mark

mkassab

04-30-2023, 06:09 AM

Honey do list prevented any significant work in the past day or so.... but here's a quick update.

I have the front suspension built, e.g., bearings/sleeves installed and greased, hubs and spindles and all installed on the frame. I got a little tickled when it came time to mount the hub to the spindle and the spindle nut holding the hub on is a 1 7/16" socket size @ ~225 ft lbs. I was thinking the ad from FF saying the average garage tools guy could build a car.... well, I don't think many have a socket that size and a torque wrench that can go high enough to torque properly. I suspect most have to take their spindle and hub to a shop mechanic to have this done for them??? Anyway, I'm fortunate to have the socket size and a 3/4" drive Torque wrench that goes past 500 ft lbs..... the picture below shows the torque being applied to the spindle nut.... I mean this torque wrench is ~3+' long.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183772&d=1682851274

Anyway, I only call this out for those that may not have the tools needed and a possible solution.

A pic of the finished front suspension

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183774&d=1682851314

I then installed the WilWood front big brakes, calipers and rotors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183775&d=1682851327

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183776&d=1682851385

Lastly, I bought a large Odyssey battery and drop down battery box I'll install under the bed, passenger side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183773&d=1682851293

Over the coming days, I'll focus on the air bag & compressor install, engine and trans install.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-02-2023, 06:42 AM

I'm making some very visual progress with significant "dry fit" mockup, i.e., Coyote engine installed, Trans installed, Rack & Pinion rack steering installed, fire wall installed, elec power steering installed, and headers installed.

First, I setup the engine crane/hoist with the leveler and 4 ratchet straps connected to the front and rear header bolts on both sides. With the Coyote's tight fit in the chassis and against the firewall, this was the best solution I could think of for easy connections and disconnect..... especially with only one person, i.e., me, doing this alone. I took my time and all went fine. I ended up having to remove the cleco clips on the firewall directly behind the engine for lack of room. I also removed the elec power steering unit and reinstalled after the engine was in place. You'll also notice I mounted the rack & pinion steering... no interference there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183898&d=1683023244

Engine & trans mounts now supporting the full weight of the the installed engine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183899&d=1683023301

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183900&d=1683023323

Shot of the bottom of the engine bay. Oil pan is the lowest object. Elec Power Steering unit reinstalled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183901&d=1683023359

Here's a pic of the left side header. Both the left and right headers were easily installed, after the engine was installed, from the bottom, up through the chassis. I intend to wrap the headers during final build to help control heat. I also want to state.... I don't know who builds these headers, but they are a work of art!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183902&d=1683023403

Now that all this is mocked up, I can start laying out the exhaust, electric emergency brake, drop down battery box, air compressor, steering linkage, Brake and Fuel lines, "stuff" that mounts to the firewall, etc.

Stay tuned,
Thx Mark

mkassab

05-04-2023, 06:47 AM

Yesterday, I made good progress on the exhaust system. With the Coyote engine and headers installed in the chassis this is a great time to mockup the layout. I plan to weld all and avoid clamps where possible. Since I'm adding resonators, "H"-Pipe crossover pipe and pushing the mufflers out under the bed I'll use and cut up a lot of what FF supplied. I also bought additional SS exhaust pipe sections (e.g., straight, U, 90* and 45*) to use as I need to accomplish my goal.... so what is my goal? Well, I do want my truck to be a bit quieter then just the FF mufflers would provide and I want to eliminate/reduce any possible drone, move as mush exhaust sound out the back of the truck vs under the cab, move as much exhaust heat out the back of the truck as I can and have a system I can unbolt in a few locations and drop the entire exhaust system if I ever need to.

I decided on an H-Pipe crossover vs the X-Pipe. The H-pipe crossover provides three key benefits (based on my past experience and lots of research):
1) equalization of exhaust pressures, performance and flow, 2) better low end torque and 3) better low frequency exhaust notes.

My entire exhaust system is stainless steel, including the MIG weld wire. In a few pics below, you'll see two clamps.... I only used them to help hold some parts in place until I tack weld them. I also used two hoist safety jack stands as extra "hands" to hold up the mufflers. My welds are a little rough in spots. I'll clean them up towards the end of the build.

The first few pictures below show a good side and end views of the mockup from the headers to the resonators with the H-pipe. When installing resonators, you want them as close to the front as possible to better control/eliminate any drone exhaust noise. Also, in this shot, I only used a small section of the supplied FF pipe, i.e., the header to exhaust coupler. I then cut the FF pipe a few inches past the square/4-bolt flange to weld to the "T" for the H-pipe. Following the "T", the resonators are zip tied in place until I can tack weld in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184016&d=1683197187

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184015&d=1683197143

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184017&d=1683197247

Coming out of the rear of the resonators, is a straight pipe from my kit and then I transitioned into the FF pipe after cutting off the flange it had to get past the lower cab frame section.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184018&d=1683197268

Once past the back cab frame, I placed the FF supplied mufflers using those jack stands.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184019&d=1683197301

The next thread will continue this topic since I maxed out with 5 pictures here.... continue to next thread

mkassab

05-04-2023, 06:58 AM

Continued from post above.

In this next pic, you'll see the end of the muffler under the truck bed with a U exhaust pipe laying on the rear axle. I plan to run the exhaust out the back.... but I need to consider the rear fiberglass valance under the gas tank. Paul provided me some pics of his.... but I think I'll wait to complete my exhaust until I have my fiberglass on. If I don't or can't run the exhaust out the back, I'll most likely run out the side under the the bed sides behind the tires.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184020&d=1683197325

In the next shot, after I tach welded the exhaust system, I remove it to finish all the welding. As you can clearly see, the exhaust pops out very easily for future removal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184021&d=1683197343

Stay tuned.... more to come. Up next, move mods and fabrication.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-05-2023, 06:13 AM

Well, I got lucky on the Panhard Bar. I thought with the new diff cover I installed it would have extended out too much and interfere with the Panhard Bar.... thereby, I'd have to fabricate new mounting brackets for the Panhard Bar. As you can see in the photo below, that's not the case.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184064&d=1683283502

I picked a good location for the Air Compressor... using a void above the gas tank. I simply welded the mounting bracket to the bed frame. This unit has both a remote and an iPhone app to run it and allows me to set up to 3 pressure settings for the rear air bags I'll install later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184065&d=1683283538

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184066&d=1683283559

Lastly, I mounted a remote battery box in location above the right rear muffler, passenger side. It will hold a larger AGM battery that has two sets of connection terminals. Also, being an AGM style battery, I can lay it on it's side. I can get the battery in and out of the box from the bottom under the truck and the top if I remove the bed... so good to go. I'll add insulation between the muffler and the battery box. Regardless, heat won't be an issue as this location is a lot cooler then most cars today that have the battery location in the engine compartment. I welded the battery box to the frame and added extra support braces.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184067&d=1683283600

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184068&d=1683283624

I'll continue with further mockup and fabrication. I'll also add an engine oil cooler/radiator & fan above the gas tank. I'm waiting for a few parts from Summit Racing before I can proceed. The entire oil system will include the remote oil filter, an oil thermostat valve that will open when the oil reached a set temp to divert oil to the cooler. This way, the oil isn't being cooled when it shouldn't be, i.e., the oil temp is below the setting in the thermostat valve.

Stay tuned.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-06-2023, 05:46 AM

A quick simple update here today. I started the brake/clutch pedal and master cylinders yesterday... nothing much there to report or take pictures of.

Regarding the gas vapor canister I made and documented earlier in this thread.... I got it installed. I had this old bracket from a previous build for some other canister that fit the vapor canister perfectly. So I made two mounting tabs and welded the tabs to the frame by the battery box. This vapor canister will be connected to the gas tank's vapor vent and should prevent any gas smell in the garage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184101&d=1683368951

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184102&d=1683368971

I'll continue working the brake systems.... brake lines, clutch line, brake bias valve, electric emergency brake, etc. I'll document all as I can.

More to come:

thx Mark

Higgybulin

05-06-2023, 06:00 AM

Dropping dimes with the wire feed! Very nice! Subscribed!
Higgy

mkassab

05-06-2023, 09:04 AM

OK, need some advise/help on the Coyote clutch switch that comes with the Coyote ECU pack and the FF Coyote install kit.

In the attached picture below, I added a yellow arrow pointing to the Coyote clutch switch and the FF mounting bracket for the clutch switch. The FF manual shows how to install as I have pictured, but nothing I can see on what engages the Coyote clutch switch.

So, I'm looking for any thoughts or direction on how does it work?

Thx Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184110&d=1683381475

mkassab

05-07-2023, 12:09 PM

mkassab

05-08-2023, 07:00 AM

A few misc items to update on.... yesterday was a bit of a light day.

First, continuing with the brakes.... I decided to go with a Tilton 3 chamber reservoir for the Front, Rear and Hydraulic Clutch brake fluid. Also, I wanted better brake bias control with a separate WilWood unit vs relying totally on the WilWood built-in pedal box brake bias adjustment. I'll be adding a Hurst Roll Control Solenoid (i.e., brake line lock) to the rear brakes for hill assist with clutch usage (we live in a very hilly area and my wife is a bit worried using the clutch... so this is my solution vs using a automatic transmission and allowing me to have my Tremec 6 speed manual trans).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184178&d=1683543940

I also ordered and received an upgrade to the coilover shocks... i.e., needle bearing thrust washer bearings vs using the plastic Delrin single flat washer FF supplied. The needle bearing washer are so much better and makes it much easier to adjust the coilovers under load. The picture below shows the plastic washer (left) and the needle bearing thrust washer (right). Picked them up on Amazon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184179&d=1683543962

Lastly, I'm using an electric emergency / parking brake from E-Stopp. I'll mount this unit above the gas tank. I'll document its installation in the next post.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184180&d=1683543984

I'm also swapping out the 3/4" Clutch WilWood master cylinder with a 13/16" Clutch WilWood master cylinder. In reading many posts, this seems the recommended way to go.... HOWEVER, I'm really not sure why??? I'd love to hear from anyone if they have further insight to the reason for the clutch 13/16" master cylinder.

Stay tuned...
Thx Mark

mkassab

05-09-2023, 07:26 AM

Another quick update.

I wanted to really focus on the Brake "system" install.... but needed parts prevented that. Those parts should be here by weeks end. However, I did get two brake items installed.

First, The electric emergency brake, E-Stopp. The next few pic shows the install. The main unit I installed upside down above the gas tank. I made and welded some simple mounting tabs:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184274&d=1683633846

This next pic shows the "cable" end view:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184275&d=1683633882

I mounted the Hurst brake line lock to a rear cross brace. I'll run the brake line from the Wilwood bias control to the brake line lock, then from the line lock to a T block then out from the T block to the left and right rear brakes

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184276&d=1683633905

I received my front Koni dbl adj coilover shocks Sunday.... so I installed the "lubed" thrust needle bearings and applied Anti-Seize to the alum threads of the shock base.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184277&d=1683633927

Lastly, I also received my oil cooler radiator with pull fan unit. I'll also mount it above the fuel tank. In the next post, I'll show more of the entire oil system and how I laid it all out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184278&d=1683633944

Today, I'll continue with the Oil System install.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-10-2023, 06:41 AM

Yesterday, I focused on the oil filtration, Temp control unit and oil cooling system mounting. I also started to make my Stainless Steel PTFE hoses.

First, the layout. The picture below shows the layout I'm implementing... it's an "Earl's" chart, but I'm only using Earl's Thermostat control unit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184315&d=1683714184

I then installed Aeromotive remote oil filter adapter to the driver's side lower firewall. I'll make a hose for output of filtered remote oil filter adapter to the input of the FF supplied remote oil filter Coyote block adapter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184319&d=1683714325

I then mounted the Earl's Oil Thermostat control block to the side rail under the cab. The temperature sensor/wire you see will drive a Dakota Digital Oil Temp gauge in the cab. Earl's Performance oil thermostat will ensure quick warm up under cold weather conditions. This unit will control oil temperature like a thermostat controls water temperature in your cooling system. It's designed for use with engine oil coolers and starts to open at 160 degrees fully open at 180 degrees. The "Output to Engine" port will have an oil line from this port to the input port of the remote oil filter. The "In from Engine" port will come from the "Out" port of the FF oil filter Coyote block adapter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184320&d=1683715599

On the "Output to the Cooler" port of the oil thermostat I added an AN-10 adaptor with a 1/8" npt port where I installed another oil temp sensor.... However, this sensor will connect to a Mishimoto Electric Fan Controller. The purpose of this Fan Controller is to turn on/off the remote oil cooler radiator fan. The Mishimoto Fan controller will allow me to set a temp to turn on/off the cooler fan from a range of 150* to 240* (deg). Therefore, the reason I added this fan control unit is if the oil temp being sent to the cooler radiator is at or below a temp I set, the fan won't turn on since it's not needed.... but if the output oil temp is above the set temp, the fan will turn on. I'm planning a set temp of ~195*.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184317&d=1683714262

Here's a pic of the Mishimoto Fan controller. I'll mount it back under the truck's bed... most likely next to the Hurst Brake-Line lock.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184318&d=1683714280

I'll continue to make my SS PTFE oil lines and mount the oil cooler radiator unit above the gas tank.

Stay tuned
Thx Mark

mkassab

05-11-2023, 06:06 AM

In addition to making all my oil hoses, I fabricated and mounted my Oil Cooler Radiator/fan above the gas tank.

In this picture, I have the mounting tabs cut, tapped and attached to the Oil Radiator shroud. I then used the clamps to hold in place to the frame and now ready to tack weld in place. What I had to consider here was the ability to unscrew and remove the oil radiator in the future if ever needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184369&d=1683802025

This shot shows the mounting tabs & bar welded in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184372&d=1683802143

And a shot showing the puller fan under the oil radiator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184373&d=1683802175

Lastly, the Mishimoto Fan controller will be located next to and under the Hurst Brake line lock

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184374&d=1683802190

Today and tomorrow, I should be receiving more brake line parts to allow me to get this part of the build mockup completed by this weekend. Last night UPS delivered my 13/16" WilWood clutch master cylinder.... so that will get installed today along with the Coyote clutch switch.

Much more coming....

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-12-2023, 06:33 AM

My two AN-10 180* fittings for the remote oil filter adapter came in and allowed me to complete the Oil AN-10 lines. So with a total of 5 oil lines, I now have connected the Oil Coyote Block adapter, remote oil filter, Oil Thermostat and the Oil Cooler Radiator. I ordered some AN-10 fittings that will allow me to pressure test my lines for any leaks. This kit consist of two parts... 1) an AN-10 male plug and 2) an AN-10 plug with a standard air valve stem. You just attached the plug on one end of the line, the plug with the valve stem in the other end of the line.... apply air pressure (I'll do 150psi because that's the max of my air compressor) then put the line is water to check for leaks/air bubbles. I'll show that when I receive them.

The top fitting is the "In" from the remote oil filter and the bottom fitting is the "Out" to the Oil Thermostat "In".

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184400&d=1683888707

During final build, I'll clamp down all the lines. The way I configured them, the Oil Lines are well away from the Exhaust Headers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184401&d=1683888723

The oil line in the rear (closest to the fire wall) comes from the "Out" of the oil thermostat to the "In" of the remote oil filter.... and the oil line to the front is the filtered oil "Out" to the "In" of the engine block adapter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184402&d=1683888740

I received the WilWood clutch master cylinder with the larger bore of 13/16". I swapped it out for the 3/4" one and also installed the Coyote clutch switch and tab on the clutch master cylinder push rod that will depress the switch to tell the ECU the clutch is depressed. I also attached an AN-3 fitting to the mstr cyl to connect the SS braided brake (clutch) line to the hydraulic Tilton clutch slave cylinder. I had to purchase an AN-3 to AN-4 male adapter fitting for the AN-3 line to connect to the "In" line of the slave cylinder... so all set now and completed (except to bleed the line during final assembly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184403&d=1683888758

Lastly, as I start to make my own brake lines using the copper/nickel line that was in a coil, I purchased this brake line straightener. it works great! I just had to hand straighten a little so I could start the "coiled" line in the straightener and that was it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184404&d=1683888773

Today I'll spend most of my time making Brake Lines.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-14-2023, 06:51 AM

Short update. Yesterday I was completing my Oil, Gas and Brake Lines. A little boring and not picture worthy. I did mount a large Holly 10 micron gas filter. Attached to the gas filter housing is a one way valve for fuel flow. The one way valve came with my gas line kit.... so I stuck it in. I used a couple 1.5" SS T-Hose clamps for the filter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184492&d=1684064176

I'm also installing, by the battery somewhere, this Painless battery switch/solenoid. It will be activated by a "momentary" button switch in the cab.... i.e, one depression will cause a disconnect and the next depression causes a connect. I'll hide this button switch under the dash... kind of a "security" device. Off the "hot side" of the switch, I'll run constant 12v power for devices that always needs power, e.g., radio, clock, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184493&d=1684064231

Today, I'll be mount the fuel regulator, radiator overflow, windshield washer canister/pump, horn, etc.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-15-2023, 05:41 AM

Light day yesterday... Quick update.

I installed the Radiator overflow in the only place it would fit, then the Windshield washer canister and pump combo unit followed by the Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. With the Coyote engine, there isn't all that much room!!! So it's a bit crowded to get it all to fit. I had to make a bracket to mount the windshield washer unit to it that will raised it off the firewall about 1" to allow for the fuel lines and AN fittings to the fuel pressure regulator to run behind it. Coming off the fuel pressure regulator is an AN fitting with a 1/8"npt tap in it to allow me to install my fuel pressure regulator sensor for my fuel pressure gauge. Then, off this AN fitting will be another smaller 10 micron fuel filter. From there, I'll have to make my last short fuel line. I ordered a 3/8" quick disconnect to 6AN male fitting that will connect the the Coyote's fuel rail. I'll have that later in the week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184534&d=1684145569

Here's a better shot to show the radiator overflow tank install

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184535&d=1684145594

On a Side Note: I received my replacement bushing sleeves for the rear lower control arms. The originals were 12mm ID and should have been 14mm ID. I understand recent deliveries of other's kits have had this same issue. So, I removed the 12mm ones only to find out the 14mm replacements are ~1/8" too long. I didn't feel like it yesterday to deal with it.... so that's one of my first tasks this morning.

Also, I'm expecting a FedEx delivery today with most of my MIK/POL backorder items in it. Fingers Crossed!

mkassab

05-16-2023, 06:44 AM

OK.... Need some help here.

I started the build of the front radiator assembly.... problem is, the manuals, i.e., both the '35 Truck manual and the FF A/C Install manual does not match at all the current product/parts that FF has designed, manufactured and shipped. So, here's my confusion.

In the pic below, you see I've attached the mounting tabs to the A/C condenser and setting in the grill. All good here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184573&d=1684235587

In the next 2 pics, you see the tabs on the actual radiator have a pretty tall gap.... ~3/4". The 2 hood brackets that goes on the top tabs are 3/16" and the spacers FF supplied are 7/16".... so all good for the top bracket/tab install.

My question is, how do I fill the gap on the bottom tabs? All my spacers are all the same 7/16".... so, not sure how I fill with gap as I don't see anything else to install on the lower/bottom tabs in the manuals. Sure, I can add my own spacers.... but I think I'm missing something here!!!

Any input here most welcome..... HELP.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184572&d=1684234634

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184571&d=1684234619

Once I get this solved, I'm also going to build a fan shroud so the exposed radiator above and below the fan is covered, thereby forcing all the air flow through the radiator when the fan is on vs the fan pulling warm air from the surrounding open area around the fan's diameter. I assume that's been done before by some.... so any input, pictures, or drawings would help me not reinvent the wheel.

Thx Mark

Pat Landymore

05-16-2023, 08:00 AM

I purchased one from Replicaparts made for the 33 Hot Rod and modified it slightly to fit the truck. Please see post 466 on my build page.

Cheers!

mkassab

05-16-2023, 12:39 PM

I purchased one from Replicaparts made for the 33 Hot Rod and modified it slightly to fit the truck. Please see post 466 on my build page.

Cheers!

Thanks Pat... I just contacted Mike at Replicaparts for my radiator shroud. I may mount mine differently than you did.

Mark

mkassab

05-17-2023, 05:01 AM

OK, So far, here's where I'm at. Per the manual, for the truck specifically, the Hood Hinge Bracket clearly sets on top of the condenser/grill top tab (and oriented as shown with the 90* bend facing outward), followed by the 7/16" spacer and then the radiator tab and screwed down..... and it looks like the next two pictures.

This shot is view looking up along the grill/rad and the hood hinge bracket mounted where the manual says to.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184593&d=1684316437

This next shot is a top down view of the same assembly as the above pic

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184594&d=1684316462

However, others, like Don, say the hood hinge bracket should be reversed left and right (i.e., 90* bend facing inward) and the bracket on top of the radiator tab? My concern here is if I move the bracket up (i.e., closer out towards the firewall) the Hood itself would also be pushed toward the firewall/rear of the truck.... Unless, the bracket move out can be adjusted for in another set??

ANY Comments here would really help me.

On page 408 of the truck manual, the pic below is shown and this is exactly how I have setup now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184620&d=1684349737

One last pic showing the bottom tabs where I used the 7/16" spacer and washers to make up the thickness of the bracket. However, If I do end up NOT following the manual and placing the hood hinge bracket on top of the radiator tab, then the washers on the lower tab may not be needed (as I'd still need more than the 7/16" spacers to fill the ~3/4" gap/space between the rad tab and the condenser/grill tab.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184595&d=1684316490

Until I can receive concrete info, I'm going to leave my setup as is for now..... as it matches and follows all 3 manuals (Truck manual for a truck radiator and hood hinge bracket setup, the Coyote Engine Manual for the truck and the Coyote A/C manual). As I proceed with the build, in particular the hood and hinge, I'll adj there if needed.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-18-2023, 06:55 AM

While having the radiator assembly setting in the chassis (pic below), I decided to start the fabrication of my front bumper. I figured anything I could do to help prevent smashing my front grill and surround is worth it for me... especially since this will be my daily driver. I must give credit to user Sbda4 (Greg's 35 Hot Rod Truck) for the conceptual bumper design.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184653&d=1684406206

I first started with 2x2x1/8" angle iron for the front structure

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184654&d=1684406230

Then focused on the rear structure by cutting the bolt on mounting plate the rear structure will be welded to. So with the removal of these three bolts and the 2 nuts from the front structure, the bumper assembly can be removed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184655&d=1684406267

Then I added the rear structure to the rear mounting plate (above)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184656&d=1684406297

Today, I'll fabricate the actual bumper. I'm still making up my mine to use pipe or square tubing. I'm also thinking of adding some triangulation support from the front to the rear structure (e.g., attach some support metal to the lower part of the front structure to the upper part of the rear structure.... may be an overkill, but what the heck?)

Tune in tomorrow to see what I came up with.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-19-2023, 05:51 AM

Yesterday, as shown above, I had the base sub-assembly pretty much completed and was able to complete the actual bumper layout. I ended up using 1.25" sq tubing. I didn't go with round tubing since I didn't have a tubing bender and felt the square tubing made better angle cuts and cleanup. I first put a piece of cardboard under the nose of the radiator/grill assembly and made a trace of the nose. I cut 1.25" wide strips of paper, to act as the steel sq tubing, to layout on the cardboard trace to determine what I liked best. I then cut the strips of paper and used them as templates to layout on the sq tubing to make my cuts.

Below is the results of the cuts and laid out on my welding table. I first use a Sharpie to mark my welding table with the correct inside width and a centerline and position for the angle cuts. Once laid out, I then C-clamped the pieces to the table.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184709&d=1684491328

Once I tacked welded, I made a test fit to the chassis

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184712&d=1684491406

This shot shows the test fit from the front. For me, it will provide the "warning" before I scrap the noise on a curb, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184710&d=1684491354

After I was satisfied with the position, I tacked welded the bumper to the subframe I made. After the tack welds, I removed the 3 nut/bolts from the rear mount plate and the 2 control arm bushing nuts and the entire bumper assembly was easily removed for final welding. Take note I added my 3/4" angle iron bracing from the lower front section to the upper rear section.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184711&d=1684491380

Once welded, I then broke out the heavy duty grinder to make the welds disappear and look like one solid bumper. I'll clean and acid etch the assembly and get it painted with acid etching primer. I'll end up using flat black on the bumper assembly to help make it less visible. Using paint vs powder coating will allow for easy touchup when (not if) I bump into something.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184713&d=1684491429

I'm still not sure what's on the agenda today? So, you can be a little surprised tomorrow when I report out and update tomorrow. One item I'm thinking about is moving the radiator overflow tank to the left side of the radiator.... I saw on Walace18's build that's what he did and one less thing on the firewall.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-20-2023, 01:54 PM

As usual, the current '35 Truck manual doesn't match the current design and build of the truck. Case in point is the picture below from the manual. I'm installing the bed/cab panel on the frame and where the cab will set on the panel. The issue is, since the extended truck was offered, the current design/frame doesn't match the picture. The panel is about 1" too long on each side See pic 2 below.

Pic from manual... the "green" part is the panel I'm referencing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184731&d=1684525696

The pic below shows the actual panel laying on the bed and how it's too long and needs to be cut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184730&d=1684525684

This is an inside the cab pic showing the panel lip bent up to "hug" the inside of the cab back section

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184729&d=1684525669

The cab fiberglass that hangs out the back and sides of the cab is about 3". The top needs to be cut back to where there's about 3/8" left and the sides needs to be about 1.5" remaining vs the 3". I used my multi-tool to cut the fiberglass. It worked great and had minimal dust from the cuts. I also used this tool to cut the rear valance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184752&d=1684607920

Lastly, to hold it all together, I used clamps and ratchet strraps for fitting before I start drilling holes. Can't tell you how many times I took measurements... quadruple checks!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184751&d=1684607920

Stay tuned,

Mark

mkassab

05-22-2023, 06:31 AM

Now that I have the truck's bed "mostly" installed.... I needed to see the ride height to determine the rear exhaust options and ready to install the air bag mounts. To do this, I had to mount the wheels/tires to the chassis. I still need to fiddle with the coil over height adjustments, but this is close enough for what I needed.

I don't have any wheel spacers yet.... so this exercise allowed me to determine what I needed for the wheel offset/backspacing I have. I didn't need any spacers for me to mount the rear wheels. For the rear's, the measurement from the bed side to the outside of the tire was 12.5". Measuring the fender, it allows for 13.5" However, for the fronts, for the wheels to clear the calipers, I had to put 1/2" worth of washers on each lug stud. So, I ended up ordering 3/4" wheel spacers for the front and rear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184771&d=1684754043

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184772&d=1684754063

And the rear close up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184773&d=1684754089

Today will have me focus on the exhaust and air bag mounts. I also need to determine if I can install a hitch receiver.

Stay Tuned,
Mark

mkassab

05-23-2023, 05:30 AM

I spent more time on the exhaust than planned. Lots of cutting, test fitting, etc. I was able to get the exhaust out the rear as planned. With the diff/axels at their lowest point, I was able to go up and over the axels and under the Panhard bar. I ended up with a lot of room for axel/suspension upward movement. Everything is tack welded. I have two exhaust hangers installed and had to order two more to complete the job today (if the delivery shows up earlier enough).

This first pic is at the mufflers looking to the rear

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184803&d=1684836719

The next pic is a closeup of the driver's side loop up over the axel

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184804&d=1684836736

Here's another angle showing the passenger side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184805&d=1684836757

Lastly, the exhaust tips I chose coming out the back under the rear valance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184806&d=1684836779

Today, I want to try to start the air bag mounting, but also need to level-up the bed sides and add more mounting bolts.

More to come,

Mark

mkassab

05-24-2023, 06:33 AM

I had a few PMs asking about the "ring" looking objects on my exhaust pipes about 12" from the exhaust tips... i.e., what are they?

So, I thought I'd answer here for all. They are Mishimoto V-Band Clamps MMCLAMP-VS-25 purchased from Summit Racing. See pic below. The purpose is a quick disconnect at the V-Band. I had to installed them there to allow me to remove the exhaust later if needed vs cutting the exhaust pipes. I've used in the past and they work great with no leaks and no rust since they are Stainless Steel with a precision ring fit.

So my exhaust system is basically four sections.... 1) headers, 2) mid-section (H-Pipe/resonators), 3) rear-section (mufflers/loop tail pipe) and 4) exhaust tips.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184859&d=1684927256

Mark

mkassab

05-25-2023, 06:16 AM

Yesterday, I spent fabricating and installing the AirLift Air Bag/Springs. As you might recall in earlier posts, I had to wait to do this until I had the weight on the wheels and the truck bed on to determine where I had room to install them and not cause any interference. Now that those two conditions were met, I proceeded with the install. I bought some basic air bag/spring universal mounting kit and using scrap steel laying around the shop, I was able to complete the install.

First, I laid out on the axel some tape and marked the mounting points (so I can grind off the powder coat for welding the base plates) and I marked where the inter lip of the bed side was. A key point during the fabrication process was keeping in mind I had to be able to remove the air bags for any servicing/replacement and thereby, need access to the lower and upper mounting bolts. Since I didn't have a full weight load on the bed of the truck, I slightly compress the air spring without the top mounting plate to set the 2" angle iron against the bed frame and clamped into place to tack weld it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184890&d=1685009997

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184888&d=1685009922

This next picture shows the mounting plate setting on the axel with two 1" square tubes to raise the air spring off the plate to allow access to the two lower mounting bolts. On top of the sq tubing is the air spring base plate. When I complete all this, these three parts will all be welded together and to the axel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184889&d=1685009978

After tack welding the top 2" angle iron to the frame, I compressed the air spring a little more to slip in the top mounting plate under the angle iron and tack welded it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184887&d=1685009881

Since the upward forces could be pretty high, I added additional support framing to brace the top place. I used more 1" sq tubing and some 3/4" angle iron. Any upward force would then transfer through the 3/4" angle iron and the 2" angle iron to the truck's frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184886&d=1685009853

When I take everything apart to finish the frame painting, I finish welding all this add-on bracing.

I'm getting close to the point where I'll tear down all the installed items off the frame and then prep/paint the frame. To help me do this, I bought an additional engine mounting stand. I'll use the two engine stands, one attached to the front of the frame and one attached to the rear of the frame, for a makeshift rotisserie that will allow me to rotate the frame and make it a lot easier on me.

Stay tuned... much more to come.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-26-2023, 06:23 AM

Well, the disassembly of all the parts I've installed to date has begun. I believe I've completed all the fabrication/welding on the frame (i.e., hopefully I didn't forget anything!). If I did forget or overlooked something, I can always still weld, but would have some cleanup and repainting if needed. I can always try bolts/screws/rivets vs welding if it doesn't compromise quality or safety. What the disassembly did prove to me was I could take all this apart vary easily.... the picture below shows a lot has been removed from the frame and I only spent a few hours doing it myself, including the engine/trans removal. The only thing left to remove is the front suspension, cab and firewall. I know you can see the rear tires in the pic below, but if you look carefully, the rear-end/tires are off the ground and free of the frame (i.e., 3 point linkage a shocks disconnected) and the rear-end assembly sitting on jack stands.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184929&d=1685098561

My goal today is completing the disassembly and any remaining parts from the frame (including the cab) and the frame mounted to the two engine stands. This will allow me to finish all the welding followed by cleaning the frame, priming and paint. Once paint is done and cured well, I'll start putting it back together again.

Not looking forward to the above work, but getting it done will be a big milestone.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-27-2023, 06:13 AM

Yesterday was spent completing dismantling of the truck frame of anything attached to it. I do, however, still have to pop out the steering column and the gas tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184967&d=1685184554

With the Cab sitting on its top (I can Lizard Skin it while it's off with both the heat and sound treatment products)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184968&d=1685184569

Here's a shot of the frame now installed on the two engine stands.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184969&d=1685184604

And here with it rotated a bit. I can get pretty much a full 90* but then the rear part of the frame hits the support arm/legs of the engine stands. Today, I'll try to offset the attachment point of the rear stand to the frame so I can rotate a full 180* (fingers crossed)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184970&d=1685184627

I did get all the welding completed.... so over the next few days, I'll focus on cleaning the frame, i.e., grinding/sanding (to clean up some welds and removal of any weld splatter and metal scale/rust), POR15 Metal Cleaner, POR15 Metal Prep (acid wash), primed and painted.

Next week may be a little light on updates.... I'll let the paint cure a bit over several days and our two grandsons from Florida are flying in to spend a few days with us..... so I'll be playing "Grandpa".

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-28-2023, 06:34 AM

Not much to report on, except I did move the rear engine stand mounting point on the frame over ~5" from center..... this allows clearance for the truck's frame to clear the engine stand crossarm/leg. At this angle, the frame bottom will be very easy to work on, drill the holes for the bottom aluminum skin, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185115&d=1685272473

The roll bar hitting the floor prevents full rotation. Also, to hold the rotation point, I had to rachet strap the roll bar to the lift's arm.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185114&d=1685272424

That's it for today. Cleaning and prep continue.

Thx Mark

mkassab

05-29-2023, 10:34 AM

Yesterday, I spent washing the frame with POR15 Metal Cleaner followed by POR15 Metal Prep Acid wash. Then, this morning, I redid the POR15 Metal Prep, kept it wet with the POR15 Metal prep to let the acid do it's thing for a good 20 to 30 minutes and them power washed it to rinse clean per the instructions. Once fully dried, and I'll also use compressed air to dry in all the nocks and crannies, I'll apply the POR15 Metal Rust Preventative, followed my UPOL #8 Acid primer then final paint.

I know everyone like pictures.... so here's a few.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185149&d=1685373693

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185150&d=1685373709

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185151&d=1685373725

My goal is to get two light coats of POR15 Metal Rust Preventative on today followed by a few light coats of primer. Then finish coats tomorrow.

Stay Tuned, Mark

mkassab

05-31-2023, 04:26 AM

So far, I have the frame coated with POR15 Metal Rust Preventative and coated with UPOL #8 Acid Primer. Later today, I'll get a coat of paint on it. The roll bar will be a different color vs the rest of the remaining frame. But a few pics of the frame with the primer on it. It's a satin black primer that looks pretty good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185211&d=1685524830

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185212&d=1685524845

close-up of roll bar

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185213&d=1685524862

Thx Mark

mkassab

06-01-2023, 06:05 AM

I completed the frame painting using a rattle can over the POR15 and Primer. The color is Charcoal Metallic. It came out better than I thought for a rattle can. But like I've always said, I'm not building a show truck, but a daily driver.

Here's two pictures

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185241&d=1685616860

Close-Up

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185242&d=1685616875

I'll let it cure a few days now while on the engine stands before putting it back on the lift and starting the build. Perfect timing with the grandkids coming Sunday for the week.... however, I may be able to "sneak" some time in for the build? I do still have to clean-up the diff/rear-end and paint the Air Spring bases I welded on the axel tubes. Also, I have to paint the bumper I made, so I do have a few odds and ends to complete while the paint cures.... Not to mention the garage cleaning after all the paint dust on the floor.

Mark

mkassab

06-02-2023, 05:10 AM

Yesterday was a sunny day and since I had to clean the garage and put away some tools & get better organized, I set the frame out in the Sun to help the curing process. The frame's paint looked even better in the Sun, so I thought I'd post a couple of pictures.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185277&d=1685699973

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185278&d=1685700006

While the paint continues to cure and still on the engine stands, I can rotate the frame that allows for good access to the underside to install the lower floor pan aluminum skins. So that's my goal for today.

Mark

mkassab

06-03-2023, 05:44 AM

I had a grand vision to get a lot done yesterday.... but events dictated otherwise. I did get the shop cleaned up a bit. I finished the welding and painting of the Air Spring based on the rear-end axel tubes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185331&d=1685787996

I acid washed the front bumper I made with POR15 Metal Prep, primed with UPOL #8 acid primer and painted Flat Black.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185329&d=1685787955

I then started the drilling and mounting of the aluminum skin on the bottom of the frame. It's all drill and ready to go. Once I get the top skin drilled, I'll then apply bead of 3M Marine 5200 adhesive/sealer between the bottom skin and the frame and pop rivet in place. Followed by rolling the frame back to level and inserting the insulative panels with 5200 spread on both sides followed by the top skin sealed and riveted in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185330&d=1685787981

So, as stated above, today's focus will be completing the floor panels and insulative panels. If time permits, I'll get some other minor items installed while on the engine stands, e.g., rear oil cooler/fan, E-Stopp emergency brake, etc. I'm still waiting for my plastic gas tank cover from F5 from my MIK list.... so that's preventing me installing the tank. I also have to determine what I'm doing with the firewall panels... paint or clear coat, or what?

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

06-04-2023, 06:15 AM

Completing the floor.... here's what I did.

Bottom aluminum panels.... I drilled 1/8" holes every 2" for the bottom and then used the panels to act as a template to drill the frame. I did 2" spacing for the extra strength and water sealing qualities. Once all drilled, I removed the panels, cleaned them and the frame bottom... followed by applying 3M 5200 adhesive. I placed a pop-rivet in each hole first before any use of the pop-rivet gun. I have several Milwaukee battery tools already, so I picked up two additional tools only (no extra batteries or chargers), i.e., Pop-rivet tool and their Caulk gun. What wonderful time savers!!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185371&d=1685874052

With the bottom panels completely installed, I'm able to rotate the frame to start the installation of the insulative rigid foam panels

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185372&d=1685874084

This next pic shows the foam panels installed and me applying 3M 5200 to install the top aluminum panels using the same process I used to do the bottom panels (except, I place the rivets every 3" per the manual). Again, using the Milwaukee caulk gun was a huge time saver. The gun has settings for speed of the caulk coming out and auto backup of the plunger after you release the trigger.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185373&d=1685874100

Lastly, the top panels are completely installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185374&d=1685874117

A couple of side notes. You may have noticed two different colors of the 3M 5200. I had several tubes of a Mahogany color before I started using the white. Also, I plan to apply seam sealer on the bottom edges of the panels and over each pop-rivet as additional water sealer. I'll also coat the bottom panel with an undercoating of some sort.... I'm thinking of using some truck bed coating on the underside panels. I'll do this while the frame is on the engine stands for ease (on me) of applying the seam sealer and panel coatings. Once this step is completed, I can remove the engine stands and put the truck back on the lift.

I'll be selling the two engine stands and the two tall jack stands used to complete the exhaust since I have no use for them any longer and they take up too much room to store if I don't intend to use them again.

Grandsons coming tonight.... so updates may be limited over the next few days.

Stay tuned..... Mark

Pat Landymore

06-04-2023, 08:41 AM

I really like your use of two engine stands. 👍🏼

Wish I’d had the same thought while building my ‘35 and would highly recommend what you did to anyone building an FFR that doesn’t have access to a lift etc.

I finally got smart last year and did the same type of home built rotisserie for my latest Foxbody Mustang project. Same issue you had…couldn’t totally invert the bare body but it was a total game changer for me.

Congrats on the great progress with your build.

Cheers
Pat

mkassab

06-05-2023, 05:52 AM

I really like your use of two engine stands. ��

Wish I’d had the same thought while building my ‘35 and would highly recommend what you did to anyone building an FFR that doesn’t have access to a lift etc.

I finally got smart last year and did the same type of home built rotisserie for my latest Foxbody Mustang project. Same issue you had…couldn’t totally invert the bare body but it was a total game changer for me.

Congrats on the great progress with your build.

Cheers
Pat

Thanks Pat

Mark

mkassab

06-05-2023, 06:20 AM

Good day yesterday. I finished the underside seam sealer and truck bed undercoating. That allowed me to remove the two engine stands from the frame and the frame is now back on the lift and ready to reinstall all the parts I took off it.

First, I cleaned, scuff padded and sanded the bottom aluminum skin before applying the seam sealer and undercoating. I seamed sealed all seams top and bottom (including the FF welded in sheet metal bottom floor pans) and the bottom pop-rivets caps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185407&d=1685962713

And the rear sheet metal pans

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185408&d=1685962737

For the top skins, I seamed sealed the center seam and the outside left & right including the large cutouts for the frame welds

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185409&d=1685962770

Lastly, I mixed the 2 part epoxy truck bed liner (U-POL Raptor bed liner product) used for the undercoating and put on two thick layers to get to the correct mil thickness. Not only will this protect the bottom from any corrosion, but also help with sound and heat. Later in the build, I'll apply Lizard Skin sound and heat to the inside of the cab (i.e., floor, firewall, doors, rear of cab and the cab itself). I'll also add a layer of other sound/heat sheet material (butyl rubber and aluminum stuff).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185410&d=1685962791

Today.... start reinstalling the suspension, etc.

Mark

mkassab

06-09-2023, 07:08 AM

With the grandkids here, I've had limited time to work the truck build... but they do sleep in and I get out a couple hours each morning..... Today, they fly back home to Florida.

I have the rear-end, 3 point linkage and shocks reinstalled, the entire front suspension reinstalled and starting the firewall. I cleaned, scuffed, primed and painted the aluminum firewall a bright silver (pic below). I'm working the engine bay while the engine is out for easy access to installed "stuff", e.g, brake lines, brake rear bias control, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185531&d=1686312072

So, a lot more to share coming soon.

Thx Mark

mkassab

06-10-2023, 05:42 AM

Good day yesterday.

First up, I ordered a raw steel steering column with my '35 truck order and my intension was to paint it the same color of my wheels and the body beltline. However, the raw steel had a nice brush finish to it.... so I just used a red 3M scotch pad to freshen it up and cleaned with acetone. I used VHT ceramic disc brake clear gloss to brighten it up and seal the steel to protect from corrosion. It came out great.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185588&d=1686390459

On the firewall side, I have the WilWood brake bias installed and plumbed to the master cylinders. I also completed the plumbing of the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinders. For both the brake lines and brake fluid lines through the firewall I used 3AN bulkhead fittings for the brake lines and 5/16" barb bulkhead fittings for the brake fluid reservoir connections vs just drilling holes and running the hoses through the firewall holes. You'll also take notice I made some brake/master cylinder bleed lines from the output of the brake bias unit back to the brake fluid reservoir. I used the steel lines FF supplied for this purpose. This way, when I "bench" bleed the master cylinders I'll also be bleeding the brake lines and brake bias at the same time. I'll also run a line from the clutch master cylinder to the reservoir. When I get the trans/engine back into the chassis, I'll run a line from the clutch slave cylinder throw-out bearing to the reservoir to bleed the slave cylinder.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185589&d=1686390480

The next 3 pictures are the brake pedal/master cylinders setup/plumbing. It was much easier doing all this with the cab off the frame. I was able to connect and tighten everything with ease and also ensure no hose was near or rubbing any moving part. I used zip-ties to keep things tight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185590&d=1686390501

Top view showing a little more detail

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185591&d=1686390522

Bottom view showing pedals and hoses

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185592&d=1686390538

Today, I'll connect the oil cooler, oil thermostat, remote oil filter to be ready for the engine install. I'll also connect the lower firewall panels to the top aluminum floor panel with 3/16" pop-rivets and then seam seal them. The steering column will be installed along with other misc items. I need to make a clutch pedal adjustable stop while I have easy access to this area.

More to follow,
Mark

mkassab

06-11-2023, 06:44 AM

Quick update.

I fastened both the left and right sides floor pans to the lower firewall sections with Five each side 3/16" pop-rivets. I clamped them together then drilled for a good firm tight fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185625&d=1686482401

I then Seam Sealed both the tops and bottoms. While I had the seam seal out, I also applied seam seal on the inside of the firewall around the frame holes (that go through the firewalls) and the sq tube area on each side of the floor pan/fire wall panels. Obviously, my goal, when the cab is 100% complete, is to have an Air and Water tight sealed compartment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185627&d=1686482438

Lastly, for my Clutch Pedal stop (that's adjustable in/out) I chose the spot just behind the clutch pedal and below the frame cross member. I would have liked to drill and tap the cross member, but my FF serial number is there. It's a very simple setup... i.e., 3/8" x 2.5" socket head with a jam nut/washer on the inside of the firewall and a nylon-lock nut/washer on the outside. Since my Hydraulic Clutch Slave cylinder can only be extended to a certain point, this pedal stop is required. Also, notice my serial number.... after I POR-15'd and painted the frame, I sanded the area where the serial number is and then clear coated that area. Therefore, this area is protected from rust and the serial number is highlighted for easy viewing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185626&d=1686482420

Stay Tuned
Mark

mkassab

06-12-2023, 05:18 AM

I made a lot of misc odds & ends progress yesterday... most of which isn't "Post" worthy. But I did want to share two items that may help others with ideas towards their builds.

First up, with my Oil System (i.e., 5 hoses, remote oil filter, oil thermostat and oil cooler/fan) all connected, less the two engine in/out connections, I proceeded to pressure test the system for any leaks. I bought these two AN10 plugs (with one of the plugs having an air valve stem installed). The Plug goes in one of the two hose fittings and the Air Plug in the other. I put 80 psi in the system and I checked the air pressure several times over several hours to make sure is was holding. I'm happy to say, it passed the test. I'll do the same with the fuel lines and gas filters when it comes time.

Picture of the two plugs installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185631&d=1686490450

Second up, I made a paper template of the bed frame. The reason I did this is to help be determine the mounting points of the stainless steel bed provided in the FF kit and the aftermarket BedWood system I'm installing. My plan is to install the ss bed sheet is such a way I can easily remove it in case I have to get access to the oil cooler/fan, gas tank senders, E-Stopp emergency brake, etc. I'll need to determine the ss bed sheet mounting points to the frame.... I'll do this by laying the paper template on top of the ss bed sheet and taping it down in place. Then, I'll lay out the BedWood frame on top of the paper to transfer the mounting points to the paper. I want the BedWood system to be mounted firmly, but also easily removeable. I'll document all that later in this build thread. I also plan to have the gas filler mounted on the right rear fender vs the bed floor. FYI.... I did received my BedWood system two weeks ago. It took about 6 weeks to receive after I ordered it. And because our truck beds aren't a standard size, it had to be custom built. I ended up ordering the Black Walnut wood with polished SS ribs/hardware and I also ordered some extra Black Walnut for 4 posts and bed rails (I still need to determine how to mount the posts to the bed side walls). I also ordered my wood unfinished as I plan to apply 2K auto grade gloss clear coat to the wood. Using 2K auto clear provides the best protection to the wood with it's UV protection in the clear. It also makes it easy to sand and buff to get the best polish shine just like it would on the truck's body. I'll just use the same polish/synthetic ceramic coatings on the wood that I use on the truck's paint. The Black Walnut should go very well with the pastel light green I'm painting the truck.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185701&d=1686562387

More to follow, so stay tuned and subscribe to this thread if you haven't already subscribed.

Thx Mark

mkassab

06-13-2023, 07:23 AM

I received my 3/4" front and rear wheel spacers. While installing them, I first had to determine how much length to cut off the stock lug bolts.... in my case, I had to cut ~5/8" using my angle grinder cut off wheel. I then installed all four and torqued each lug nut to 90 ft lbs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185765&d=1686655752

The next job took me several hours.... I finished my brakes.

I first "bench bled" the three master cylinders as I outlined above in a recent previous post. Then I installed all the brake lines I made earlier. I still had to make the front right and left brake lines, which I did. Once all brake lines were installed at a four corners and the two front line and the single rear line were setting loose/unconnected at the WilWood brake bias unit, I was ready to disconnect the brake bleed lines I made from the brake bias unit one at a time (Note: this is the messy part, i.e., once you disconnect a brake bleed line, gravity kicks in and the brake fluid starts to run out of the brake bias unit). So, with rags at hand and a small catch can, I first removed the rear bleed line to connect the "waiting" rear brake line. Trying to be quick, with very slippery brake fluid all over my fingers, I got the rear line connector threads started and tighten. I then proceeded to the first front brake line followed by the other front brake line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185763&d=1686655390

Rear brake line junction... i.e., the main brake line runs to the Brake Line Lock, then to a T-fitting, and then to the left and right brake calipers.
(Note: the two ss braided hoses you see are the oil cooler in/out lines to/from the oil thermostat)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185764&d=1686655408

From this point, I bleed the brake lines at all four corners, starting with the right rear (longest run from the master cylinder), then to the left rear caliper. Followed by the front right then the front left. I'll bleed again before my first drive.

Check in tomorrow for todays activities.

Thx Mark

mkassab

06-13-2023, 12:06 PM

Big bummer today.... I got the engine/trans back in the chassis. Went to install the drive shaft for the first time and BAM... 185771 the fricken thing is too long.

I sent this note to Madison and Dan G at FF:

Hi Madison and Dan,

I finally got to the stage to install my drive shift.

BTW, here's the link to my truck build thread on the ff forum:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44055-Mark-s-35-Truck-Build-Extended-w-Gen-3-Coyote

Ref the two attached pictures.... pic 1 (2223) shows the drive shift yoke bottomed out in the trans and pic 2 (2224) shows the rear-end diff end being ~1.5" too long. Given the yoke wouldn't be bottomed out against the transmission for the final install.... so that would make the drive shift about ~2.5"+ too long.

When I measured the center of the front universal joint cap to the center of the rear universal joint cap on the drive shaft it measured ~39.5". I'm thinking it should be about ~37" center to center u-joint cap?

Again, ref my order, I have the Gen 3 Coyote eng, Quicktime Bell housing and the Tremec 6-speed Magnum transmission model #11010

185769

185770

I'll update once I hear from FF

Mark

mkassab

06-14-2023, 04:31 AM

A major milestone was passed yesterday.... the Coyote Engine and Tremec Magnum 6-spd trans back in the chassis and installed. As I mentioned in the above post, the drive shaft shipped with my kit was too long and I'm waiting on FF's response. I did get the Clutch master cylinder connected to the Tilton Hydraulic throw-out bearing and bled. While doing this process, I also set my Clutch pedal stop and confirmed the Coyote clutch switch (that came with the Ford Performance ECU kit/harness) is engaged with the clutch pedal is depressed.

This first pic shows the engine smoothly gliding back in place. This is really a easy step for one person (i.e., me) to do. The engine hoist with the engine tilt device makes easy work of it all. I use a ratchet strap on the tail of the transmission to help guide and keep the trans/engine straight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185805&d=1686732588

Here's a shot of the back of the engine and the wire harness neatly tucked away within the various engine components. I zipped tied them in place as you see it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185806&d=1686732607

And this last picture shows the clearance between the firewall and the engine..... It's a good 1" of space.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185807&d=1686732628

I plan on this being the final install, i.e., I'm not removing the engine / trans again.... at least that's the plan.

Today.... I'll focus on connecting the steering components, power steering drive, oil lines to the engine, fuel pressure regulator and fuel line to the engine, Headers/exhaust installed, Headers wrapped with heat tape, etc. Once the exhaust is installed, I can finish the rear-end install with the Panhard Bar and Air Bags. I can't install the gas tank yet as I'm still waiting on a backordered gas tank bottom cover from FF. With any luck, I'll have the tank cover in a couple weeks.... or it could be a couple months according to Madison at FF.

As I write these posts, I realize just how much more I have to do... e.g., A/C System & hoses, electrical, Heater hoses, radiator/hoses/coolant, etc. All good stuff.

Later,
Mark

mkassab

06-15-2023, 05:27 AM

While installing the steering U-Joints I had an issue with the joint that connects to the steering shaft coming through the firewall. The shaft coming through the firewall, has a bearing that's housed in an out and inter bearing flange cover. The flange cover on the outside firewall was interfering with the U-Joint jam nut. So I marked the flange cover where the jam nut would hit, took it apart and ground the flange enough to eliminate the interference (see pic below).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185847&d=1686822467

Here's the completed steering shaft installed with the modified flange (sorry it's rotated 90* counter clockwise.... but you can see the mod).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185848&d=1686822488

Next, I started the Header install prep by wrapping them with DEI Engineering Titanium 2" Exhaust Heat Tape Wrap. This product can handle heat up to 1800 degs, can help reduce heat in the engine bay and by retaining the exhaust heat in the headers/exhaust, will help engine performance. Also, this product doesn't require soaking in water like competitors fiberglass products.

This pic is the back side of the left header wrapped in it's raw color.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185849&d=1686822625

Here's the front outside of the left header.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185850&d=1686822647

Lastly, a top view by the header flange showing the ss zip-ties.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185851&d=1686822664

I then coated the wrap with a DEI Silicone Hi-Temp spray product that helps seal the header wrap and adds an aluminum color to the wrap.... I'll show all that in tomorrows update as it needs two coats and the last coat will go on today.

Stay tuned,
Thx Mark

mkassab

06-16-2023, 06:08 AM

As I mentioned in the last post, I coated the header wrap with a DEI Silicon Heat/sealer product.... this is it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185881&d=1686910910

In preparation for the header install, I added a ss washer to each Stage 8 Header bolt, coated each bolt with anti-seize. For those not familiar with Stage 8 I'd suggest a quick Google. Bottomline, Stage 8 offers different types of locking devices, i.e., once a bolt is installed and torqued, you add a locking tab to the bolts end that prevents it from backing out/loosening. Great product as I've used them for every build I've ever done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185882&d=1686910927

I installed the left (drivers) side header first. No problems as it slipped in easily from under the frame and up to the install position. The headers in the pictures are all coated with the DEI Silicon product. I was able to get my torque wrench on 6 of the 8 bolts using various methods, e.g., straights socket, swivel head socket, crows foot. The other two with a combination of allen wrench ball head (i.e., each Stage 8 bolt head is a 7/16" and a 5/32" hex head) and/or various wrenches. I had to do my best by hand to torque as the torque wrench wasn't an option. The wrap thickness didn't help matters at all.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185883&d=1686910953

Next was the right (passenger) side header. Well, the wrap thickness prevented the header from slipping in..... so, I had to remove the engine mounts on both sides and jack up the engine using my floor jack to lift the engine up about 1.5" to get the header in. I placed a piece of 3/4" plywood on the bottom of the oil pan to spread out the load. It was a lot of extra time consuming work, but it all worked out. Also note the top engine mount bolt.... for extra clearance with the header pipe, I ground down the bolt head by 50%.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185884&d=1686910973

To finish out my day, I ran and installed the emergency brake cables to the E-Stopp electronic emergency brake unit and connected the cable ends to the connection block with set screws. I also add a cable clamp for an extra secure connection.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185885&d=1686911097

Today, the rear section of the exhaust still needs final welding. Then the exhaust will get installed, along with ???? (haven't made my mind up yet).

Thx Mark

mkassab

06-17-2023, 05:32 AM

I finished welding up my exhaust system and now have it all installed. At each joint where two parts meet, I used Permatex Ultra Copper infused RTV High Heat Silicone.... i.e., This Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone adhesive is designed to provide a waterproof, flexible, weather-resistant seal around metal. It's designed for temperatures of up to 700 degrees F. It's just one more step to help ensure a sealed, no leak, exhaust system. I lightly tighten the nuts/bolts.... let the silicon set for a day and then tighten all the way. This helps preventing a lot of Silicon from squeezing out of the joints.

I provided a few pics of all the exhaust pipe/muffler insulation to help further reduce heat/noise from entering the cab to supplement the header wrap. I applied the foil backed fiberglass insulation from the header collector back and over the mufflers under the truck bed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185926&d=1686996293

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185927&d=1686996342

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185928&d=1686996359

I suspect many of you will think this is an overkill, and it may be, but this truck is intended to be my daily driver, not a show car, and I want as much sound/heat insulation as possible.

Today, while under the truck, I'll fasten the brake lines, oil lines, etc with line clips. And even though I can't install my gas tank yet, since I'm still waiting for the bottom gas tank cover from FF, I'll run the gas lines (fuel supply and the return line) from the engine back to the tank and get them clipped in place. I guess while I'm at it, I'll run the battery cables also.

Stay tuned.... more to come,
Mark

mkassab

06-18-2023, 05:13 AM

I ran all the Fuel Lines up to the gas tank. The Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator installed with Vacuum Line installed. I also made the last Fuel Line and the final connection from the regulator to the Coyote's fuel rail quick disconnect. I bought a Quick Disconnect with an AN6 male end off Amazon.

Here's a close up of the Fuel Pressure regulator. Coming out the right side, I added my Fuel Pressure electronic sensor that will feed my Fuel Pressure gauge I'll install later. Then after the sensor joint, I added another 10 micron fuel filter. The vacuum line is attached to a vacuum source at the throttle body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185983&d=1687080533

This next shot, you can see I added another gauge sensor to the vacuum line. This vacuum electronic sensor will feed a Vac gauge I'll install later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185981&d=1687080494

And another pic of the vac connection to the throttle body. The blue caps you see on both ends of the red vac hose are quick disconnects from a product called Hose Candy.... link: www.hosecandy.com I bought one of their small kits for another build so I used them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185982&d=1687080513

I had extra heat insulation so I add two layers to the bottom of the battery box. With the right side muffler being insulated followed by a several inches of air gap between the muffler and the battery box the temp should be a lot less then when a battery is located in an engine bay.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185984&d=1687080554

I installed the battery so I can start running my battery line connections. You'll also notice I have a device called PowerPulse. I've used these on my other vehicles and RVs. They work well and gives the battery an extended life. If you want more details, here's the PowerPulse link: https://www.pulsetech.net/pp-12-l-powerpulse-12-volt-battery-maintenance-system.html
As I connect the battery lines, I'll also add a quick disconnect for my Battery Tender.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185985&d=1687080570

Today, I'll continue with the Battery line install, remote battery electronic disconnect and other misc stuff.

Thx Mark

mkassab

06-19-2023, 05:24 AM

Quick update.

I can't keep waiting for the FF Gas Tank bottom plastic cover.

But, I do have a question.... isn't the bottom plastic cover nothing more than cosmetic?..... I mean most all other cars and tracks have exposed gas tanks. Any thoughts on this most welcome.

So I coated my tank with POR-15 so I can install my tank. I can always install the bottom cover later if it's really needed. Heck, the rear valance covers half the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186012&d=1687168282

Lastly, I now (temporarily) have the truck on the suspension with jack stands, i.e. a pair up front next to the grease jerk fitting on the lower ball joints and a pair under the rear axel tubes. I wanted to adjust my Panhard bar to center the rear-end diff relative to the chassis. So, to do that, I needed weight on the suspension. To simulate the body, full gas tank, truck bed, etc. I came up with this red neck solution. Nothing a few wheels/tires, full propane tanks couldn't handle. Anyway, it was enough to get the Panhard Bar level, thereby, the diff in the correct position to make the final adjustment.

I thought you all need a laugh.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186013&d=1687168322

Now, it you looked closely at the above picture, you may have noticed the orange funnel in the oil line near the rear oil cooler. I was pouring oil in the line to fill it so when I start the engine and the thermostat opened up for the first time the two oil lines and oil cooler didn't suck out ~2 qts of oil from the engine. I stopped this process to order some AN10 fittings (T, 90s, coupler) so I can connect all the oil lines, use the Tee to actually fill both oil lines and the oil cooler. Then I'll put an AN10 plug in the T opening when finished. I'll share a picture when the parts come today and I've have it all connected. The foil backed insulation you see will be used to insulate the oil lines from the exhaust loop over the axels. I'll do the same to the fuel lines on the right side.

more to come
Mark

mkassab

06-20-2023, 09:54 AM

With the bottom of the gas tank POR-15 painted a couple days ago, I POR-15 the top of the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186067&d=1687270162

After the paint tacked up, I put a self sticking firm rubber strip on the back of the tanks seam where it rests against the truck's frame. This will eliminate any metal to metal contact and squeaks. I also put a rubber weather strip on the actual hangers... so the rubber sits between the hanger strap and the bottom of the gas tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186068&d=1687270583

On the front tank seam, it only has two 1" sq contact points where the hanger straps are. Here in this pic is the right side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186069&d=1687270600

Under the misc category, I added the oil cooler line Tee to fill the lines and oil cooler with oil (I mentioned this in the previous post). The pic shows with the clear fill tube attached. Once I fill, I'll put an AN10 plug in the Tee (plug shown to the right of the tube sitting upside down on the frame rail). I'm also going to add two Tees at the oil thermostat pointing down. This way I can drain the oil cooler & lines during oil changes if I want. I figure the with all the oil lines and oil cooler this should be an extra ~2 qts of oil.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186070&d=1687270617

Lastly under misc, I started to fit/cut the trans tunnel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186071&d=1687270635

Much more to come.... the work never ends,
Mark

mkassab

06-21-2023, 06:25 AM

The Gas Tank installed easily and sits tight against the truck's frame/mounting points. The gas out and return lines connected along with the vent hose to the homemade charcoal filter I made. In addition, the Air Lift Compressor is now connected to the two Air Springs/Bags. I installed two "T" in the air tubing..... i.e., the single air tube out of the compressor hits the first Tee, from that T, I fitted an air line going to a standard manual air valve and the other tube from the T goes to a second T. The two outs from the second T has the left and right Air Bags attached. With this set up, if the compressor ever fails, I can still add or release air pressure manually. I'll mount the manual air valve to the lower valance somewhere (final valve location is TBD). The air lines are AN4 SS braided lines.... which were a bit long. So I simply coiled them up and zipped tied above the gas tank. When looking at the pic below, the grey plastic housing you see (behind the black ground wire sticking up and to the left of the air compressor) is the air filter for the air entering the compressor. You'll also note a black air tub going down by the gas tank fill inlet..... that's the manual air valve to be mounted later.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186102&d=1687345104

The next pic looking forward shows the gas lines wrap with heat shielding insulation and one of the ss braided air lines feeding the right air spring/bag.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186103&d=1687345123

Lastly, the gas lines going to the the first gas filter and the white PVC homemade charcoal filter. In the lower right corner, you'll see the remote Painless battery disconnect. It's triggered on/off with a momentary button switch to ground I'll mount under the dash somewhere (it will act as a simple security measure)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186104&d=1687345152

Last night, I started laying out next steps...... I'll document all that later. BTW, my intent is to have the gas filler tube go to the right bed side vs the truck bed. I need to buy some flexible silicone 2" gas fill hose.... Anyone have a source for 2" flex gas hose?

Thx Mark

mkassab

06-22-2023, 11:00 AM

I wanted to add a radiator shroud to make my puller fan more efficient. I was going to make one and found out a forum sponsor, i.e., www.replicaparts.com has one for the the '33 hot rod. So I ordered one. I had to make modifications as you'll see below.

First, I needed to cut out the bottom of the shroud to go around the radiator hose outlet and the drain valve. I also needed to make some "L" brackets (pictured below) that used the bolt stubs mounted on the radiator to attach to the shrouds sides. I used some left over GM body to frame shims.... I just bent them 90* drilled a 1/4" hole for the radiator stud, added a washer, red LocTite and tighten.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186148&d=1687447784

Next, I marked the fan mounting hole locations on the shroud and drilled 3/8" hole for 1/4" threaded rivet nuts as you can see in the pic below. I then place the shroud on the radiator and over the L brackets I made and installed. Once I was fine with the fit and alignment, I drilled 4 - 3/16" holes through the shroud sides and through the L bracket, followed by 3/16" pop-rivets. This step completed the shroud install to the radiator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186149&d=1687447807

I then mounted the fan to the shroud with 1/4" button head SS screws, flat and lock washers and blue LocTite.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186152&d=1687447907

The large gap around the lower radiator outlet and drain, I filled with silicon (not shown in the pic)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186151&d=1687447862

Lastly, I added silicon to all seams, i.e., shroud to radiator and fan to shroud. With all air gaps/seams silicon sealed, any air pull from the fan will come through the front of the radiator for maximum cooling efficiency.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186150&d=1687447828

More to follow.

Mark

mkassab

06-23-2023, 06:38 AM

I had a question regarding clearance between the fan and the Shock tops.... well, I have about 1/2" clearance.... but I haven't complete the radiator final position adjustment.... but I believe I have plenty of room.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186217&d=1687517707

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186218&d=1687517722

Now, to figure out where to install the Coyote PCM with the very limited length of the Engine Harness that has to connect to it..... not many choices!!

Stay tuned
Mark

JimLev

06-23-2023, 04:21 PM

For the top front shock bolts you may want to put a shorter bolt in from the back side and maybe a thinner nut.
The way you now have it, if you ever wanted to remove the shock you’d need to remove the fan.
On the 33 that’s what we had to do, the truck looks like the same setup.

mkassab

06-24-2023, 04:12 AM

mkassab

06-24-2023, 05:59 AM

First, the Power Steering control box mounting. I decided to mount the control unit on the brake/clutch pedal platform box. I started by taking the "U" shape bracket FF provided and bent the base of the backet 90*. I drilled, tapped and mounted the bracket at seen in the pic below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186259&d=1687602822

Here's a pic of the mounted pwr steering control unit

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186260&d=1687602840

Now for the bad news regarding the drive shaft FF provided with my truck kit. I clearly stated to FF in writing and verbally, I was going with a Coyote engine, Quicktime bell housing and a Tremec Magnum 6 speed manual transmission..... which, all of these options are sold by FF. When I ordered the truck back in July 2022, no one from Factory Five identified any issues.

Well, Long story short.... when I went to install the drive shaft a few weeks ago, it was too long by about 2.5" allowing for the 31 spline to slide in/out with the diff/suspension movement....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186262&d=1687603592

I contacted Dan at FF to document the issue, it took ~2 weeks for any response only to be told.... It's not a FF problem and it's my issue to fix/resolve.

I documented my dissatisfaction with this and communicated back to Dan with Dave Smith on cc:. So, unless FF resolves this for me, I'll have to find a "local" drive shaft place, at my expense and time, to have it shortened. Where I live, there are no "local" drive shift places... so my travel time to/from to both drop off and pick up will be several hours. And, hopefully, it won't take the drive shaft place too long to do the work. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

Other than the Drive Shaft issue, the products and service from FF has been great!

BTW, I also suggested to Dave that the truck manual needs significant updates. We'll see what happens.

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

06-25-2023, 08:27 AM

I didn't like the bendable ss radiator hose that came with the FF kit.... So, I ordered 1.5" silicone hoses (in 90*, 45* and Straight) along with aluminum tubes (90*, 45* and straight couplers) to have a super clean look. Here's my setup. I also intend to use Evans waterless coolant/antifreeze. Super high boiling point and therefore low PSI pressure.

Pic 1 shows from the engine outlet to the top of the radiator. You'll also note I bought my own aluminum filler Tee, cap with thermometer, and brass overflow elbow. I'm also using the Gates heat shrink vs traditional hose or T clamps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186305&d=1687698472

Pic 2 shows from the engine inlet from under the chassis (I have a hose coupler between the top 90* hose and the 12" straight hose)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186306&d=1687698496

And Pic 3 provides a view from under the chassis showing the final connection to the lower radiator outlet. Before I button all this up, I'll need to install the bumper I made first.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186307&d=1687698513

Today, I'll start my fabrication of the AC/Heater box to the firewall mounting assembly..... I intend to "borrow" Paul's mounting options since it's a truck and I bought the same AC/Heater box.

More to come,
Mark

mkassab

06-26-2023, 07:03 AM

Just a very quick update.... I added two oil line drain points to the cooler lines at the oil thermostat.

So, I will be easy to drain in the future if ever needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186346&d=1687780763

Still working the AC/Heater box mount and will share progress in next post.

Mark

mkassab

06-26-2023, 09:18 AM

I just posted a question on the Coyote thread regarding an additional coolant hose connection I want to make.

Pls read and comment. Here's the link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?46507-Coyote-coolant-routing-option&p=530037#post530037

Thx Mark

186356

mkassab

06-27-2023, 12:33 PM

Getting the inside firewall prepped with heat and sound insulation prior to the Heater/AC evaporator box being installed. I first applied the butyl rubber with foil backing, then I applied the fiberglass back and foil over that. The first few pictures show that.

Butyl rubber/foil mat

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186439&d=1687886176

Next the fiberglass/foil mat

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186441&d=1687886229

Closeup showing the multi layers

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186440&d=1687886196

Then I made and installed the backing mount plate for the Heater/AC evaporator box from an old heavy aluminum "Yeild" sign I had. I mocked up the mount plate on the bench with the evap box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186443&d=1687886271

Mount plate mounted to the firewall

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186442&d=1687886257

I'll now be prepping the evaporator box with 4 thermometer sensors that will feed the Dakota Digital Auto heat/AC controller

Mark

DonS

06-27-2023, 02:35 PM

mkassab

06-27-2023, 03:37 PM

Mark, you got me a little concerned about the drive shaft. So today I test fit it and am happy to say, everything is good. Did you get any template for the dash, to go around the roll bar at the top of the dash? Don S

Hey Don... yes, if you referring to the template on page 486 of the manual? I don't believe the roll bar has a template. The template on pg 486 is for the steering column. Note, I haven't started/used it yet, but I do suspect this is what you're referring to?

Here's a pic of it and a PDF attached.

Mark

186467

186466

mkassab

06-28-2023, 06:57 AM

For my '35 Truck custom AC/Heat system.... I'm not using the AC evaporator FF supplied in the kit..... I bought my Vintage Air Gen II air handler evaporator from Summit Racing that has some key features I was looking for.... 1) separate Defrost, AC Vent outlets and Floor outlets, 2) can be controlled Automatically by setting a temp by Dakota's Digital DCC-2300: Digital Climate Control for Vintage Air Gen II and 3) provides "Set It and Forget It" like a modern automobile.

In the next pic you'll notice four yellow arrows pointing to wires/sensors that come with the Dakota Digital DCC-2300 kit. A = long temp sensor probe that goes through the evaporator air transfer coil, B = a temp sensor that measures the temp of the "Vent" air, C = a temp sensor that measures the temp of the "Floor" air and D = a temp sensor that measures the temp of the "Cabin" air being returned/recycled to the evaporator from the Cab

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186490&d=1687950240

With the Vintage Air evaporator mounted, I then added the front mounting plate to the evaporator for electrical "stuff" like Paul did on his truck (except I used some scrap metal I had laying around.... not pretty, but functional, and not seen behind the dash).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186488&d=1687949884

My intent here is to have central electrical buses here for 1) Constant 12v Hot direct from the battery, 2) 12v Hot direct from the Master Battery remote switch, 3) 12v Hot from the Ignition and 4) a Ground bus. I have all the buses to be installed.

Pictured below is an aux fuse panel that has a Negative bus and two battery "hot" (Batt A and Batt B) buses. I'll use this fuse panel for anything the FF provided fuse panel can't handle

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186489&d=1687949909

Up next I'll start making the AC and heater hoses and connecting the "AC/Heat system" together.

More to come,
Thx Mark

Prslegmaker

06-29-2023, 08:28 AM

Could you send me the part numbers for the windshield wiper setup, including all parts you ordered? I’d like to get the same items for my build.
Thanks,
Ronnie

mkassab

06-29-2023, 09:21 AM

Could you send me the part numbers for the windshield wiper setup, including all parts you ordered? I’d like to get the same items for my build.
Thanks,
Ronnie

Hey Ronnie.... here you go. I bought from Speedway Motors.

Mark

186534

Prslegmaker

06-29-2023, 10:18 AM

Thank you very much.

Prslegmaker

06-29-2023, 02:19 PM

are you applying the lizard skin inside the cab along with the underside of our trucks? Im going to order some and not quite sure how much to buy. I'll spray both formulas.

mkassab

06-29-2023, 02:31 PM

are you applying the lizard skin inside the cab along with the underside of our trucks? Im going to order some and not quite sure how much to buy. I'll spray both formulas.

Yes, I will. I just guessed what I'd need. Does Lizard Skin web site give approx sq footage coverage?

mkassab

06-30-2023, 04:59 AM

I made my AC and Heater Hoses. I'll finish crimping the AC hose end fittings this morning... but wanted to share the progress.

First, I bought an inexpensive AC fitting crimper. It simply clamps into a vise and I use a 3/4" wrench to cause the crimper to apply the pressure needed to crimp the fitting to the hose. The first hose in the crimper is a #6 size from the Evaporator to the firewall fitting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186576&d=1688116797

Here's a shot of the evaporator to the firewall passthrough fittings.... less the one in the crimper above. Take note for the heater water hoses I'm not using traditional worm hose clamps, but Gate's heat shrink band hose clamps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186577&d=1688116832

Passing into the engine bay with the dryer

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186578&d=1688116850

The compressor fittings

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186579&d=1688116866

And finally, the condenser fittings. The picture being 2D makes it look like the hoses will interfere with the front suspension, but in 3D there's plenty of room.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186580&d=1688116880

BTW, I did drain the oil out of the Ford compressor FF supplied to make sure the required amount of 100PAG oil was in it... it was correct at ~4 ozs.

Up next will be more electrical and making a bracket to mount the Coyote PCM to. Not many options on a mounting location, therefore you might be surprised where it will be.

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

07-01-2023, 06:50 AM

Quick update. I added the additional electric buses, i.e., 1) Chassis/batt ground, 2) Batt constant Hot, 3) Master Battery switch Hot and 4) Ignition Hot

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186643&d=1688210681

I completed all my AC hose Crimps.... no better way to check for leaks than to hook up the AC gauges and vacuum pump. I left the pump run several hours.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186644&d=1688210699

I left the gauges connected overnight and some 16+ hours later, I'm happy to say the vacuum held overnight!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186645&d=1688210714

I also applied heat to the heater hose Gate's PowerGrips heat shrink hose clamps.... easy enough. I'll apply a vacuum on the whole radiator/heater coolant system later today for its "Leak" test. The product I use for this is the AirLift Coolant system as pictured below

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186646&d=1688211758

Not only does it draw a vacuum to confirm no leaks, but once the vacuum is in the coolant system, you shut the valve off to hold the vacuum, place a coolant pickup tube in a bucket of coolant, open the valve and the coolant is sucked back into the engine's coolant system.... and, thereby avoiding any air pockets. Check up some YouTube videos.... great invention I must say. Here's just one of many videos to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1beZZCBUnt0

Mark

mkassab

07-02-2023, 08:21 AM

Lot's of little misc stuff started/completed that isn't "post" worthy.... but I did get the Dakota Digital Auto AC/Heat controller connected and tested. Lots of wires and sensors feed the controller that in-turn controls the Vintage Air Gen II evaporator.

A pic of the "nerve" venter for the AC/Heat system

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186671&d=1688303674

That's the quick update for today.

Mark

mkassab

07-05-2023, 05:23 AM

With the drive shaft FF sent me being too long by 3" I took it to a local (i.e., Asheville NC, Carolina Powertrain) drive shaft company to have it shorten. It took them a few days. They did a great job and also balanced it. The drive shaft FF sent me was not balanced which I thought was very odd and not good I might add. Anyway, I cleaned up the drive shaft, primed and painted it. I installed the drive shaft yesterday and filled the Tremec T-56 trans with ~ 4 qts of Dextron III / Mercon ATF fluid. I'll run this fluid for ~500 miles during break-in, then drain and refill with Tremec's Trans fluid .

I ran all my auxiliary power and ground wires.... I'll have pictures of that later.

Lastly, with the battery being remote and if I every needed to "Jump" the battery, it would have been next to impossible. So, I added a dedicated +/- battery jump posts. It is installed front right, inside the frame, below the starter, but out of sight, for easy access.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186811&d=1688551318

Today, I'll continue some of the wiring and trans tunnel mounting.

Mark

mkassab

07-09-2023, 09:29 AM

For anyone with a Coyote engine, I just posted a question in the Coyote post section on the forum..... any help would be much appreciated.

Thx Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?46644-Gen-3-Wire-Harness-question-what-are-these-for&p=531409#post531409

Prslegmaker

07-10-2023, 01:31 PM

Hey Mark, I installed the E-Stopp electric E-brake yesterday and I love it. I've also installed a different remote Brake fluid reservoir that has two tanks. I went that route as it has openings in the bottom back side to attach the brake lines to instead of the hose hanging down below it. Plus having two separate reservoirs gives me a little more confidence.

mkassab

07-10-2023, 03:07 PM

Prslegmaker

07-11-2023, 12:33 PM

I really enjoy reading your posts on the build and Im borrowing a n umber of ideas and products from you. Thank you for being so thorough.

mkassab

07-12-2023, 06:27 AM

I really enjoy reading your posts on the build and Im borrowing a n umber of ideas and products from you. Thank you for being so thorough.

Ronnie.... thanks for your comments. As I said in the first post of this thread, I do this as a payback (i.e., paying it forward) for all the knowledge I've received from others that also post.

I'm a bit slow on "picture posts" since wiring isn't too picture worthy. Mixing the Coyote's PCM wiring, all my extra add-on wiring and the FF wiring is very time consuming. Plus documenting it all on the FF wire diagrams to reflect all my changes/additions so I can remember what I did later is important.

Mark

mkassab

07-12-2023, 06:43 AM

Since my truck will be a daily driver, I wanted interior lighting when opening the doors, etc. With FF's frame and the gussets they welded into the top corners of the roll cage you'll notice the laser cut round holes in them.... and that gave me an idea. I went on Amazon and searched LED lighting. The holes are ~3/4" in diameter. The rear holes are a bit larger @ ~1". I found some 3/4" LED Side Markers with the rubber sealing gaskets.... pic below.

A bag of 10 was only ~$8.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187155&d=1689161932

Here's a pic of the front left LED installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187154&d=1689161383

For the rear LEDs in the larger hole, I put the light in, held in place from the bottom and applied "goop" glue and then put painters tape to hold in place until dry. So, all four corners will have light. I'll also add the some accent lighting later that I'll share when installed and working.

Mark

mkassab

07-13-2023, 07:02 AM

Another quick update here.

The wiring in the engine bay is wrapping up, along with the oil separator/catch cans from the left and right valve cover breathers. As you'll see, I installed two. The main one is on the right (passenger side) valve cover that does most of the work.... as normal driving, with lower RPMs, would have the greatest vacuum to pull the crankcase gases, catch the oil to help prevent oil back into the intake manifold and filing it and the valve stems up. The left (driver's side) valve cover "kicks" in at higher RPMs as the vacuum on the right drops off, the vacuum on for the air input tube increases. Anyway, the screw off cups would be emptied at each oil change, or sooner if you had a lot of blow by.

Pic of left front:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187189&d=1689247211

In the pic of the right front, you'll also notice where I'll be mounting the PCM computer for the Coyote..... it was the only spot I could come up with. I checked this location with Ford Performance and they said it's just fine and similar to the stock Mustang location. I still have a lot of wire to tidy up and wrapping to do as you'll see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187190&d=1689247256

Here's a close up of the Coyote fuse box/wire central and the windshield washer tank/pump

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187191&d=1689247272

Lastly, with so many of my addon's being mounted/located in the rear of the truck bed, I installed a fuse & relay box on the rear support rail, along with the oil thermostat and Oil cooler fan control unit installed below the fuse box and the Hurst brake line lock to the left.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187194&d=1689247330

A close up:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187193&d=1689247313

While the trigger inputs will come from the front of the truck, most of the wiring will be in the rear.... e.g., E-Stopp, Oil Cooler Fan, Air Compressor, Brake line lock, the backup lights I'm adding, etc.

The wiring in the cab is still a can of spaghetti.... so I'll take pics later of all that.

Again, As I said before, I markup the FF master wire diagrams to reflect all my changes and additions for future reference. I printed out the wire diagrams on 11" x 17" paper so they were blown-up.

Stay tuned.... Thanks Mark

mkassab

07-15-2023, 06:20 AM

Continuing my efforts to completing my electrical, I wanted to share how I added the cruise control turn signal arm to the Ididit steering column. I must say up front when I've done this before using Flaming River steering column it was much easier to fish the wires through the column vs the Ididit. On the Ididit column, I had to take the top pieces out, i.e., the horn switch and the turn signal mechanism. So, first up was connecting the wire ends to a "pull" wire that was stiff enough to start fishing, but flexible enough to bend as needed while fishing. So I folded over 2 of the 4 wires and looped the pull wire over them.... Note the shrink tube to the right. The pull wire was a piece of .045 TIG weld wire.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187234&d=1689417150

Here' a picture of the shrink tube shrunk and ready to go.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187235&d=1689417173

With the horn switch and turn signal mechanism out, you can clearly see where all the wires go through the column. It's a very tight fit and it took a lot of fishing to finally get past all the obstacles and steering column tilt bits.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187237&d=1689417259

Finally, success... after removing the rubber gromet at the end of the column where the turn, horn & 4-way flasher wires come out the weld wire became visible.... Note: look closely just to the right of the light blue wire and you'll see the shiny copper weld wire.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187236&d=1689417219

To finish the cruise control arm installation, you have to tuck the cruise control wire harness to the lower part of the white plastic turn signal mechanism. It was actually built to attach the wires to it... i.e., it has 3 distinct plastic hooks to put the wire into and a couple tabs on the bottom to guide and hold the wire in a channel. Again, if you look closely, you'll see 2 of the three wire hooks at the 6 and 7:30 o'clock positions on the turn signal mechanism.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187238&d=1689417285

A side note.... because I have a Coyote engine without a typical carb or throttle body, i.e., it's drive by wire, I found a vendor that makes a custom cruise control unit that works with the Coyote drive by wire gas pedal and attaches to to the pedal wire harness sockets. There are no cruise control parts in the engine bay. It does have a small control unit box, approx 3.5"x3"x1" I mounted to the right of the brake/clutch petal box.

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

07-16-2023, 08:36 AM

For my Tremec T-56 Magnum 6 speed manual transmission I needed a way to apply +12v power to a solenoid on the transmission that locks out accidental shifts into Reverse.... i.e., when I'd need to go into reverse, I'd have to engage a switch momentarily to to open the solenoid allowing the shifter to go into Reverse. I'm very much aware I could have bought several shift knows with a switch built in.... but in my situation, I also need another 2nd switch. In a previous post to this thread, I shared the Hurst Brake Line Lock for the rear brakes to help in holding the truck still on a steep hill until I could engage the clutch/trans in 1st gear.... therefore the need for the second Micro Switch. Both switches will run through their own respective relay. For the Brake line lock, I pick up the power for the Relay's solenoid from the rear brake light, i.e., no brake "ON" and no Brake Line Lock. The same for the Trans reverse lock solenoid... I pick up the power for the Relay's solenoid from the brake light and the same result.... no brake "ON" and no Reverse. Once the Relay is engaged from the momentary switch, the main power to the various solenoids will from from the Ignition Switch ON bus.

Here's a picture of the two micro switches I found on Amazon and installed on the gearshift rod just below the gearshift knob. I'll run the reverse solenoid from the right micro switch and the brake line lock from the left micro switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187252&d=1689513044

And a close-up of the switch and part number.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187253&d=1689513063

The four switch were less than $10 bucks.

I'll run the wires down the back side of the shifter is a small diameter woven wire protector. With both the shifter and the wire protector being black... it should blend in well.

I'll show more during final assembly.

Thx Mark

mkassab

07-17-2023, 05:34 AM

Quick share on the gearshift rod and micro switches. I wrapped the micro switch wires in the smallest woven wire wrap maid and attached with black zip ties.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187281&d=1689589671

top view

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187282&d=1689589691

Today, finishing up the aluminum panels and sealer.

Mark

mkassab

07-19-2023, 05:54 AM

The next build item idea came from another build on this forum.... but I can't remember who I got the idea from???

Anyway, the notion is to have my WiseGuy custom seats mounted to something that will allow the seats to lift and tilt forward while bolted to the floor of the truck. The WiseGuy seats are ~16" wide and fit nicely in the truck. The truck's seat area is ~19" wide.

To determine the best height of the seats, I played around with wood blocks/2x4s to determine and test various heights...... I settled for ~4.5". To achieve that height, I installed adjustable sliding seat rails, 2.5" angle iron and the pair of Mercedes rear deck hinges.

I picked up two pair of Mercedes rear deck lid hinges off of eBay and then bought two pair of pneumatic piston lift cylinders. After first installing the sliding seat rails, the angle iron was next. I simply drilled the holes in the angle iron that fit the bolt studs on the sliding rails. Then I clamped the Mercedes hinges to the angle iron sides and drilled those mounting holes. Once all was mounted, I placed the seats in the truck to determine best mounting location and marked the floor boards using the hinge's mount slots as a template.

Here's some pics.

First, the under seat assembly with hinge up:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187356&d=1689761202

Hinge folded down:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187357&d=1689761228

Here, I'm holding one of the pneumatic pistons that will be installed once the seat is mounted to the floor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187358&d=1689761250

And, last... seat in the truck in the tilted up position for an idea of the final install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187359&d=1689761287

I did the same thing for the passenger seat.

Both seats have the optional seat heaters and lumbar support. I intend to wire the switches in the center console I'll design and build later.

I also determined where I'll mount the two 3-way 6x9 rear speakers and the two 6.5" round sub woofers.... all four will be mounted in the aluminum panel behind the seats.... more on all that later. I also have a pair of 6" mid range and 2 tweeters for upfront.... the 6" speakers will go into the door panel and the tweeter somewhere on the A pillars or dash.... all TBD.

Stay tuned

Mark

mkassab

07-22-2023, 05:49 AM

Another quick update.

After I finished installing the top center cover on the transmission tunnel, I applied the Dynamat style sound/heat foil backed material on the truck's floor, trans/driveshaft tunnel and inside footwells.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187498&d=1690020991

Next, How to change hi-beam and low-beam on the headlights. I didn't like FF's way of a switch on the dash.... so I used a good old fashion foot dimmer switch.

First, I soldered heavy gauge wire to each of the 3 terminals on the dimmer switch, followed by individual heat shrink tubing on each terminal then a larger heat shrink tub over everything. On the other end of the three wires I crimped a male spade connector to mate up with the FF wire harness heat light switch wires female connectors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187495&d=1690020690

Since I wanted to mount the foot switch with the wires pointing up, that would have left the right bolt hole of the foot switch hanging out past the frame member I wanted to mount it to.... so I fabricated a small 90* angle brace that would allow me to firmly mount the switch to the other side of the frame member.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187496&d=1690020900

In this last picture, the foot switch is mounted firmly to the frame member..... very solid. I simply drilled and tapped the two mounting points in the frame and used SS 10/32 screws.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187497&d=1690020922

For today's main task, I'll apply sprayed Lizard Skin to the cab's interior. I'll use both the Lizard Skin Sound and Ceramic Heat shield products. Once I get the cab back on the truck's frame, I plan to add additional heat and sound proofing products... e.g., 1/2" closed cell foam product and some appropriate leather grand vinyl product over the foam. I'll document all that later. I also want (or at least I intend to) to figure out a way to fabricate some sort of overhead/roof "dash" to mount some light indicators, gauges, garage door opener, switches, hand free mic, etc so everything isn't mounted to the dash or console I'll fabricate.

Stay tuned,

Mark

Prslegmaker

07-23-2023, 09:48 AM

How did you get the photos full size?

mkassab

07-23-2023, 09:52 AM

How did you get the photos full size?

call me on that when you're in front of your computer.... I'll walk you through it.

Mark

Prslegmaker

07-23-2023, 10:05 AM

Somewhere I read 50 Sq ft per 2 gallon container. I used half just on the floor inside the truck.

Prslegmaker

07-23-2023, 10:07 AM

Can you call me? Ive lost your number if you gave it to me.

mkassab

07-28-2023, 06:34 AM

Quick update....

First, in my last post, I mentioned I'd be applying Lizard Shin. Well that didn't go well at all. I cleaned the cab interior with solvent and applied the Sound Control product first.... well, after drying overnight, it started to peel.... and each day as it dries more I get more peeling. The only thing I didn't do from the instructions was "rough up" the surface. The reason is I "thought" the fiberglass was rough enough.... well that was sure wrong or it was something else? Lew, from the forum, stopped by to pickup my Lizard skin sprayer and thought maybe is was some sort of release agent or a wax type substance leaching from the fiberglass? Regardless, when I take the cab off later, I'll strip it all off and try something different. I'll document all that later when the time comes.

With the cab back on the chassis, I wanted to continue my electrical connections, fitting the dash/gauges, and build my center console and overhead console.

The dash was pretty easy to fit with the trimming of the 1/2" gap along the windshield area, the sides and the 1.5" diameter around the roll bar. I believe my dash is pretty clean (ignore the dust on the black fiberglass) with the fitment of the A/C vents, defroster vents, center gauge, wiper/washer switch, indicator LEDs, ignition switch, light switch, dimmer and USB.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187902&d=1690542184

My extra gauges will go into the overhead console I'm building.... i.e., VAC, Fuel PSI, Oil Temp and Center Clock. The pics below show it in very rough form. I still need to do my cut out for the Home Link garage door opener... I'll so this to the left of the of the left most Oil Temp gauge. I'll mount a mic for mobile hand free feature connected to the stereo head unit. I'll cover the wood console with vinyl simulated leather.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187900&d=1690542148

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187901&d=1690542165

The center console I'm building will house the Radio/stereo head unit, the A/C/Header controls, Window switches, E-Stopp switch, my remote Master Electric switch, Seat heater and lumbar switches, etc. I'll also have an arm rest. I'm planning on a simple security system and the bottom of the arm rest and under the main part of the console I can "hide" more components/wires. Two cup holders will also be installed into the console.

More to come,

Mark

mkassab

07-31-2023, 05:56 AM

Yesterday was spent building my center console. I'm using 3/16" Luan plywood. For the arm rest portion of the console I'm using 3 layers glued together for strength and to fill the gap between the aluminum driveshaft cover and the heavier and thicker fiberglass trans tunnel cover. The reason I wanted the strength was it needs to support the weight of a person who uses their arm to lift themselves to position them in the seat. I attached 3 - 1/4-20 rivet nuts on each side of the driveshaft tunnel to give the arm rest section a good base. At the base of the arm rest I'll put a false bottom in this part of the console.... the bottom section will be for electronic components and act as a wire way between the truck's rear and front. The top section for storage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188069&d=1690798144

The reason I'm building in multiple sections is to allow for the angle transition from the driveshaft tunnel and the trans tunnel. Also, it's the only way to install and/or remove the console in the truck's small cab.

In the next pic, I'm adding the trans tunnel side panels and adding cross section supports between the two sections.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188070&d=1690798168

For the panel mounting to the trans tunnel, I'm using sheet metal screws through the fiberglass. Take note of the consoles fit up under the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188071&d=1690798202

Finally, the last two pictures show all the bracing being glued in to support the tops and ends of the console.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188072&d=1690798226

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188073&d=1690798246

Today, I'll clean up the glue that squeezed out and make the tops. I'll also be cutting out the various panels where I'll mount the switches, buttons, stereo head, HVAC control panel, cup holder, etc. Also, I'll be completing the overhead console with wiring and simulated leather covering.

I'll update further tomorrow.

Mark

mkassab

08-01-2023, 04:04 AM

Here's the finished Overhead Console. It houses the HomeLink Garage Door opener, AM/FM hideaway antenna, the GPS antenna, the gauge dimmer, the clock set button, the Mic for hand free, the wiring for a Garmin Dashcam, 3 gauges (oil temp, fuel psi & vac) and a center mounted clock. I added quick disconnect male/female adapters for easy mounting and dismounting of the console and all wires run down the A-Pillar. For the actual mounting, I drilled and tapped into the roll bar. It's very solid piece.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188134&d=1690879473

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188133&d=1690879442

And the back side. You'll notice I added additional JBWeld epoxy over all the seams/joints for added strength.... a bit messy, but a very strong and secure structure. I ran a 4-wire "ribbon" cable from the dash and up to the console as a master supply for the 1) Batt constant 12v hot, 2) Ignition hot, 3) dash/park light hot and 4) a ground wire. This feeds all the gauges, clock, dimmer and the HomeLink unit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188131&d=1690879388

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188132&d=1690879412

The Floor Center console is coming along fine..... all the wood panels are cut. Today, I'll cut out all the various panels for the Stereo head, HVAC controller, window switches, USB ports, E-Stopp set button, and other misc items..... I'll post all that tomorrow.

Mark

Prslegmaker

08-01-2023, 02:46 PM

Damn buddy, this stuff is looking very good. I need to make some time to come visit before you're all done.

mkassab

08-01-2023, 06:04 PM

Damn buddy, this stuff is looking very good. I need to make some time to come visit before you're all done.

Thanks Ronnie.... wait until you see the center console. It's coming out pretty good.... if I say so myself.

Mark

mkassab

08-02-2023, 06:09 AM

Quick update on the center console build. I have only the top lid arm rest with hinges to complete before I start to cover with the vinyl. I also need to wire everything with quick disconnects and add the false bottom to the storage compartment before I take apart to cover.

As you'll see in the pictures below, I have the Stereo head unit and HVAC controller cutout and mounted for fitting. I'll add hold down screws (i.e., black oval head/washers) for all the panels. I need to figure out a way to support the weight of the rear part of the stereo head unit. The cup holder I finally went with (from Amazon) is a replacement cup holder for a GM truck.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188169&d=1690971928

From this angle, you can also see the electric window switches ready for mounting just behind the stick shifter. Also note the blue painters tape above the stereo head unit on the dash. I'll mount a LED map light here, like the one I mounted on the arm rest rear panel you'll see in the next picture.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188170&d=1690972016

Lastly, the rear arm rest panel.... with Seat heater switches, lumbar switches, USB charger, map light, map light switch, blinking blue LED for the security system, 12v (cig lighter style) socket, E-Stopp set switch and the master 12v power switch on/off button.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188171&d=1690972037

Today, I'll focus on all the wiring in/under the console, the security system, etc.

Thx, Mark

mkassab

08-04-2023, 04:46 AM

Today is the day for the center console to be covered....

I've had a few requests to show more details of some of my little projects.... more of the "how to" building blocks.

I thought I'd share a few very basic pictures of the prep with the pattern cuttings/layout. I use the 3M High Strength 90 spray contract cement.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188288&d=1691141704

Here's a closeup of a few of the panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188289&d=1691141726

Yesterday, I wired up the security system and now that the console is removed from the cab, I can now clean up the wire "mess" and wrap and zip-tie to make it all clean and neat......!

I'll share the finished console pics tomorrow.

Thx Mark

mkassab

08-06-2023, 05:41 AM

OK, here's the finished product.... center console. Please don't judge me too harshly on my console build results... as I'm sure not a professional upholsterer. All the pictures show a lot of dust/smudges and the camera highlights all of them and I didn't set/screw down all the panels. This was just a quick test fit. Obviously, the final installation will be much neater and clean!

The first picture shows one side up and all the security alarm devices attached to the driveshaft tunnel. In addition, the E-Stopp main control unit is also attached to the tunnel. Some of the alarm components are a motion sensor, tilt/bump sensor, glass break sensor, the alarms main controller and an alarm remote antenna. All the wires towards the front will connect to the console panel I'll show below. I still need to make the false bottom that will cover up the security and E-Stopp components. I'll also install a 12v battery backup in the console for the security system. The backup battery will be charged by the alternator along with the chassis battery.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188375&d=1691314709

Here's a front side view. The wire coming out of the arm rest side is for the 12v power needed for the seat lumbar and heaters. The two switches behind the shifter are the door power window switches. Up front the stereo head unit and HVAC controller. The gear shifter boot is just sitting there for "placement" along with the GM cup holder that's a press-in fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188376&d=1691314730

This angle shows more of the back half of the console. Once the seats are installed, it will help coverup all my console imperfections and help make them disappear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188377&d=1691314749

Top down view

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188378&d=1691314774

Lastly, a detail shot of the front arm rest panel and all its components labeled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188380&d=1691315541

I still need to finish up the wiring on the stereo head unit, e.g., speakers, power, amp, etc. And I'll finish up the back of the dash wiring and quick disconnect connectors.

After that.... I'll start the door and other fiberglass panel fittings.

Mark

mkassab

08-10-2023, 05:22 AM

Not any picture worthy build items.... but I did get the windshield wipers fitted and installed. I mounted my wiper motor in the passenger side kick panel area like Paul did. Worked out well. I also decided to have my wipers oppose each outer for an "old timey" look... i.e., the wiper blades sweep from the center of of windshield, from the parked position, to the outside of the windshield. I also installed the upgraded wiper switch that has a 2 speed and intermittent (variable time) sweep and a windshield washer "push" switch built in.

Anyway, once all installed and tested, I dismantled and set aside until after paint and bodywork. I'll note that the wiper motor and blade transmissions were pretty quiet and I suspect once the engine is running, dash installed, carpet in and driving down the road with the stereo on it won't be that noticeable, if at all?

So, I'm now ready to tackle the doors and other body panel fitting.... not something I'm looking forward to, I think? Time will tell.

Mark

mkassab

08-12-2023, 05:47 AM

I've started the building of the doors following the manual.

I do have a question to those that have done this before.

On the hinge end of the doors, the template has 3 - 3/16" pilot holes. The manual refers to the two end ones to add a pop rivet to hold the template in place while reaming out the hinge bolt holes. Then remove.... it goes on to say... you can put a pop rivet back into the holes after the template is remove to fill the hole or have it filled with body filler.

Here's my question given the above statement. While fitting the female hinge to the door and inter door frame, I noticed the same 3 - 3/16" holes in the door frame that perfectly line up with the template..... So, I'm thinking of adding ss bolts/nuts or ss pop rivets though the door and inter door frame along with the hinge hardware. What have others done? The manual says nothing about that and leads me to believe they only used the hinge bolts to hold the inter door frame. Thoughts? Note: Unless someone can tell me why I shouldn't attach the inter door frame using these three holes, I'm thinking to just drill and tap using 1/4-20 button head SS bolts.

The pick below shows this door hinge end with 3 pop rivets just sitting in place to hold the door frame up and in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188688&d=1691835402

The cutting and drilling of the hinges went OK... it took me several hours. SS is tough stuff to tap, drill and counter sink... not to mention cutting the hinges..... used lots of cutting oil and all went just fine. The drill press made it much easier vs using a hand drill.

Here's the prepped hinges:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188689&d=1691835459

Last pic is the prep for the door latch end. You'll also notice I added sound/heat matting to the door's interior skin.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188687&d=1691835375

BTW, I also drilled 3 - 1/4" holes in the bottom of each door for water drainage. I believe this should be added to the manual also!

Thx Mark

edwardb

08-12-2023, 11:13 AM

mkassab

08-12-2023, 11:58 AM

No reason you couldn't drill and tap those holes as you described. Although, as you said, the hinges hold the frame rigid once tightened down. I deviated from the instructions and bonded the frame in place pretty early in the process. Pretty risky move and not sure I'd recommend it. I was lucky I guess and it turned out OK. Getting the doors just right is a pretty big effort no matter what. Good luck. One hint: They have you tap one of the hinge holes because that particular mounting bolt is nearly inaccessible otherwise. Don't remember if it was the top or bottom. But I found that both top and bottom hinge halves are easier with one of the two holes tapped and not having to put a nut and washer on the other side. Don't remember if I mentioned that in my build thread. It's important because you'll have those hinges on/off and adjusting multiple times and they're not easy to access. It will be obvious which ones when you start working on them.

Thanks Paul.... As far as bonding.... here's what I'm thinking. After I drill/tap the interior bracing. I was thinking of putting plastic cling wrap on the end of the metal bracing (i.e., the part of the bracing that butts up against the front and rear part of the door) the then applying the 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler to the door and brace.... then reattach the bracing into the door which will cause the filler to fill in all gaps between the door and bracing... bond to the door, but the bracing will release from the filler because of the plastic wrap. That way, I'll have a good flat surface for when it's installed, but with the bracing still being removable. Any thoughts on that?

Thx again, Mark

edwardb

08-12-2023, 02:12 PM

Thanks Paul.... As far as bonding.... here's what I'm thinking. After I drill/tap the interior bracing. I was thinking of putting plastic cling wrap on the end of the metal bracing (i.e., the part of the bracing that butts up against the front and rear part of the door) the then applying the 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler to the door and brace.... then reattach the bracing into the door which will cause the filler to fill in all gaps between the door and bracing... bond to the door, but the bracing will release from the filler because of the plastic wrap. That way, I'll have a good flat surface for when it's installed, but with the bracing still being removable. Any thoughts on that?

Thx again, Mark

Personally not sure of the advantage of having it removable once you lock in the location with the HSRF. Might be hard to get in/out just because of how it fits. Even with the plastic wrap. But that's just my first reaction and maybe you've thought about it more. No one way to do these things.

mkassab

08-13-2023, 05:59 AM

Another great "tool" I borrowed from Paul's (aka edwardb) build is the use of door fitting spacer stands. Here's what/how I "copied" the idea.

I had these two 3/16" thick steel angle braces. I took some scrap wood laying around, added a flat base to it and I simply clamped the angle braces to them to map to the height of the bottom of the door jambs. It worked great. Thanks Paul again for another great build tip.

BTW, the angle braces were from an old build.... they were from the seat belt floor anchors to bolt the seat belt to.

I wanted to share incase others weren't aware of this tip.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188736&d=1691923640

And this pic with the door in place sitting on the braces and duck taped at the top.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188737&d=1691923662

I hope this can help someone like it did me.

Mark

mkassab

08-14-2023, 06:33 AM

I'm fitting the rear truck bed and decided to mount the gas filler tube and cap on the right side of the bed vs the bed bottom and having a hole in my Black Walnut bed wood I'll be installing. To be honest, I'm not sure why anyone would want the filler in the bed (other than it's a much easier install/fitting)?

Regardless, All I did was buy four quality T-Clamps and two 45* 2" gas filler hoses. As you'll see, I also purchased a new lockable filler cap.

After checking to ensure the rear fender wasn't going to interfere, I stated from the gas tank filler opening and worked my way to the bed side panel to determine the panel hole location that had to be cut.

Here's a few pics to show the two 45* hoses:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188783&d=1692011498

And a close up:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188782&d=1692011479

None of the clamps have been tighten yet.

For the outside... here a couple of pics: (Note: the bolt heads you see holding the bed side on are just temp... as the final build will be button head bolts.) I also still need to mount the bed side stake pockets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188781&d=1692011458

You'll also notice I didn't push the filler cap assembly all the way into the filler hose so I can easily remove the cap.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188780&d=1692011438

I was working on the door fitting but delayed that exercise for a few days.... I'm waiting for cooler mornings so I can do all the sanding outside vs in my garage. I'm spooled running my AC in the garage.

Mark

mkassab

08-15-2023, 06:44 AM

While waiting for cooler weather to do all my fiberglass sanding... I turned to the truck bed. As I stated in earlier posts in this thread, I intended to add a Black Walnut bed wood to lay over the FFR SS sheet metal. I want both the bed wood and ss sheet metal to be easily removal. So here's my start to being able to do just that. It will take several post to show it all... but here's the start. So this post is 1 of several.

First, I laid out the left to right cross rails that I'll attached the bed wood and ss between strips to. In this first pic, the wood is just laying on the cross rails with the ss strips not attached. I really think this Black Walnut will look and contrast well with the light pastel green I'll paint the truck.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188859&d=1692097538

In the next pic below, you'll notice 9 ss strip mounting holes with blue painters tape. I'll drill through the cross rails below the then drill through the FFR SS sheet metal. Once I remove all the rails/wood, I'll install rivet nuts in the FFR SS sheet metal. This will be how I mount the bed wood assembly to the truck's bed. Once all mounted, all I'll have to do is remove these 9 ss 1/4"-20 pan head bolts to remove the entire bed wood assembly and thereby exposing the FFR ss sheet metal below it. In another post later, I'll show how I attached the FFR ss sheet metal to the truck frame. The SS sheet metal will also be easily removed for any service that might be needed to the systems under the sheet metal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188860&d=1692097554

Lastly, I'll mount these marine grade lift fasteners to the wood in each of the four corners. They can be used to tie down any cargo AND/OR lift the bed wood assembly out of the truck's bed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188861&d=1692097572

So, today, I'll continue the bed mounting installation I described above. You won't see the final product until after I paint the truck. My goal to paint the truck is later this fall when the temp and humidity are low and perfect conditions for me to paint.

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

08-16-2023, 06:53 AM

I wanted to share the base for the Bed Wood install.

In the pic below, you'll see different items, i.e., 1) the paper template I made of the chassis frame under the FFR SS bed sheet, 2) the cross mount rails the bed wood will fasten to and 3) on the far right of the picture, the wood end cap for the bed wood planks/boards.

I'll use the paper template of the frame to determine where to drill and tap 9 mounting points to bolt down the SS sheet to the frame. I'll drill in the frame below, tap with a 1/4"-20 and bolt the ss sheet to the frame with SS button head bolts. Between the ss sheet and the frame, I'll add thin rubber strips to prevent and metal to metal contact and squeaks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188941&d=1692185585

In the next pic, I show how I drilled and screwed the end fiberglass valance to the bed wood end cap. I'll add some sort of slip-on edge protector to the fiberglass.... something like door edge guards, to dress up the edge.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188940&d=1692185560

Closeup

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188944&d=1692186232

Lastly, some cross mounting rails pics showing the rubber bottoms and the key slots in the rail to slide the T-Nuts in the rail to attached the bed wood ss strips. As I mentioned in the previous post, nine of the bedwood strip holes will not have T-bolts, i.e., in those 9 holes, I drilled through the cross mount rails, through the ss sheet and installed 1/4-20 rivet nuts. This will firmly hold down the bed wood assembly to the truck's bed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188942&d=1692185620

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188943&d=1692185643

Today, I'll work the bed side pocket mountings and the tailgate latches. I'll also be installing the backup camera and hitch receiver... more pics on all that soon.

Mark

Prslegmaker

08-16-2023, 01:29 PM

Hi Mark, where did you get your backup camera? I haven't found one i like yet.

mkassab

08-17-2023, 04:55 AM

Hi Mark, where did you get your backup camera? I haven't found one i like yet.

Ronnie... I bought my backup system from Rear View Safety. Great company and service. BTW, if military or vet, you'll get a 10% discount.

Here's the link to what I bought... https://www.rearviewsafety.com/safety-solutions/rvs-776718-d-g-series-backup-camera-system-with-auto-dimming.html

They have a vary large selection to choose from.

I bought the unit with the camera, mirror and it's auto dimming. I didn't get the one with temp or compass since my Dakota Digital instruments gives me the temp and compass, along with so much more.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188995&d=1692265809

My next post below will show how I mounted the actual camera.

Mark

mkassab

08-17-2023, 05:10 AM

I cut the holes needed in the rear valance for the Camera and the Hitch receiver. Now I'll need to remove the valance and weld the hitch receiver to the frame..... I'll share that when done.

Here's two pics of the mount locations. I'll trim out the area around the receiver as the hole needed to be big enough to slip the valance over the receiver. I'll also need to add a break away chain connection and a covered 4-pin plug for the electrical brake/turn/park connector.

In this first pic, the camera is just sitting in the hole via friction. On final assembly, after paint, I'll add some glue/epoxy to the back side of the camera and valance to hold it firmly in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188996&d=1692265839

Pic 2 is just a wider angle shot.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188997&d=1692265861

More to come

Mark

mkassab

09-06-2023, 05:45 AM

Quick update.....

I've received a couple PMs asking why "No Updates" on the build....

Well, We had a trip to KS to see oldest son and family and now prepping for a month long RV trip to the New England (Arcadia Nat'l Park/Bar Harbor, then NW Mass, then the Finger Lakes, NY and several other family & friends stops). I'll be back hard at the build by mid Oct.

I ordered and received my backup sensor kit I'll be adding to the rear valance (came with four sensors and a monitor/display. I'll share all that later during the install.

Mark

mkassab

11-16-2023, 08:52 AM

I've been gone for awhile doing some traveling and general "Shop/Garage" cleanup. We have one last trip for Thanksgiving and then I'm back hitting the '35 Truck build and all of you receiving many updates from me.

So stay tuned, back on the air around Nov 29th!

Thx Mark

mkassab

02-04-2024, 01:56 PM

Well, I'm back after several months of doing other "stuff". The weather is warming up and it doesn't take much to warm up the garage to a comfortable working temp with a sweatshirt on.

First up....

I completed the install of the exhaust tips since I have the raer valance on.... see first photo below.

I also drilled and installed the four backup sensors... photo with 4 red arrows.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195291&d=1707070801

In the cab, I'll have this backup monitor installed (below). I'll have the option to mount forward or rearward and viewed through my review mirror

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195295&d=1707071706

Next up, I installed and prepped the rear valance for my Putco rear valance lightbar.... it will have brake, turn, tail and backup lights. Brake/tail is bright Red, Turn in bright Amber and backup in very bright Clear. This will supplement the stock tail lights that came from FFR and negate me installing a third brake light on the cab..... much cleaner look!
Here's a closeup of the bar and control box

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195294&d=1707071278

To hide the wiring, I cut a hole that I can slide the light bar through from the backside of the valance

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195292&d=1707070827

Then, once mounted, as shown below, I'll install some bar light mount clips and the mounted bar will hide the hole I needed to slide the bar through

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195293&d=1707070846

The hole I cut awhile back for the trailer hitch receiver will be filled in as I changed my mind about installing the hitch.

Lastly, you'll note the red arrow pointing to the review camera.

Stay tune.... lots of updates coming.

Thx Mark

mkassab

02-07-2024, 10:27 AM

I decided to upgrade my carpet. To determine how much I need, I laid out all the cut carpet FFR supplied on my countertop. The most popular carpet size I found is 40" wide. My countertop is 41" wide.

In the first picture, I laid out what would fit on the counter top... i.e, 9' Long and 40" wide

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195413&d=1707319126

The next photo shows the remaining carpet pieces which measured 7' long and 40" wide

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195414&d=1707319150

I'm sure if I took more time, I could lay out differently to have less waste, but I'll end up buying 16' long x 40" wide.

Now, just to determine the carpet pile/loop type and purchase.

I'm doing this to have longer carpet life since my truck will be my daily driver.

Mark

mkassab

02-09-2024, 09:40 AM

Some quick updates:
1. After waiting over 7+ months, FFR finally sent me my gas tank pan, so I installed it (one less part in the garage)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195493&d=1707486545

2. I got both doors rough fitted in the door openings. I have the "beltline" on the cab/doors aligned and the doors fit into the door openings.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195491&d=1707486462

3. I also drilled 3 water drain holes in the bottoms of each door panel

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195490&d=1707486389

4. For the rear stake pockets, I intend to bond the side pockets (front and rear) to the side bed panels. Since I have to mount the bed side panels to the frame, I'll install some captive nuts to the side panel and install some SS hex pan head bolts from the inside of the truck bed. Lastly, I also intend to make the stake pockets functional by cutting through the SS sheet FFR bonded to the fiberglass bed side and installing black walnut that matches my bed wood and building a side and front rails... I'll document that late with I get to that step.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195492&d=1707486501

5. For my last update.... I ordered some 3M Urethane gap filling bonding epoxy for the doors internal steel support framing (for the door hinges and latch. Since the fiberglass inside the doors are not uniform/flat, when you tighten the hinge and door latch bolts, the fiberglass will twist/buckle/distort. The epoxy will act as a "bedding" material. If I ever have to remove the steel framing, I installed some plastic box tape to the steel which will prevent the steel being stuck to the epoxy. While the epoxy is still wet, I'll just snug the bolts, let the epoxy set and then do the final tightening of the bolts. Take note I drilled and taped the frame to attach to the door panels (the same locations from the FFR template where they suggested using pop rivets).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195494&d=1707486574

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

02-10-2024, 09:44 AM

Yesterday, I bedded the steel door frames in the doors.... here's the process I used.

As shown in the previous post, I applied cheap box packing tape to the steel frames that will bed against the door panels. In the next couple pics, I applied the 3M urethane epoxy to the ends of the door frames.... NOTE: you have to work fast because the epoxy sets up very quickly... so I had the bolts/washers and tools all set and ready to go.

Here's the door latch side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195534&d=1707568577

And the hinge side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195533&d=1707568524

This shot shows the hinge side bolted in. Note, I installed the latch side first because the hinge side cross brace lays on top of the latch side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195535&d=1707568610

Here's a shot from inside the door looking at the top of the hinge side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195537&d=1707568691

Finally, the product I used to do this

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195540&d=1707575629

Because this product sets up so fast, I had to use two mixing nozzles. Luckily, the product comes with two nozzles. I ordered extra nozzles as I have a lot of epoxy left I can use later to glue the side pockets to the bed sides.

Mark

mkassab

02-12-2024, 09:57 AM

OK, I'm needing some help and advice on how to deal with some passenger door alignment. My Driver's door came out great.

First.... let me state the bottom half of the passenger door, i.e., below the beltline/window, aligns perfect at the front, bottom and rear. As you'll see in both pictures my issue is with the top of the door.

Specifically, the back of the door window frame sticks out:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195595&d=1707748913

And the front of the door window frame sticks in:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195596&d=1707748942

Basically, the top half of the door seems "twisted", i.e., the back it out about 1/4" and the front is in about 1/4"

Are there any tricks of the trade? Will the window glass, once installed, help to fix this? Any advice MOST WELCOME as I'm at a lost on how to resolve this.

Thanks Mark

edwardb

02-12-2024, 12:26 PM

mkassab

02-12-2024, 01:39 PM

The truck door fitting... probably the hardest and for most including me the most challenging. I was wondering whether the new extended cab doors would fit better than the original version I build. Mine fit OK around the window frame but the bottom rear corners both stuck out. I had to pie cut the fiberglass and mostly fixed it. I don't have any magic answers for you. But did want to respond to your question of whether the glass would help fix. In my experience, it won't. So there's that.

Thanks Paul. I'll keep at it. I may have to build up the outside of the front part of the door with filler or put a bumper inside the upper part of the door jam to push the top corner of the window frame out?.... And, as you did, pie cut the rear bottom of the window frame for the rear upper corner to be pushed in.

Note: I also had the lower rear corner of both doors stick out as you did, but found a solution. You can loosen the two carriage bolts on the inter door cross frame (close to the door latch).... then while loose, push the bottom corner of the door in and the top of the door corner out. This causes a "twist" of the rear of the door. Then while doing this, tighten the two cross member carriage bolts and that fixed the lower corner sticking out.

Mark

Lew

02-12-2024, 01:51 PM

Thanks Paul. I'll keep at it. I may have to build up the outside of the front part of the door with filler or put a bumper inside the upper part of the door jam to push the top corner of the window frame out?.... And, as you did, pie cut the rear bottom of the window frame for the rear upper corner to be pushed in.

Note: I also had the lower rear corner of both doors stick out as you did, but found a solution. You can loosen the two carriage bolts on the inter door cross frame (close to the door latch).... then while loose, push the bottom corner of the door in and the top of the door corner out. This causes a "twist" of the rear of the door. Then while doing this, tighten the two cross member carriage bolts and that fixed the lower corner sticking out.

Mark
Hey Mark, I cut the inner panels horizontally along the line of the cut out so the top of the door could flex out and then fiberglassed back together when in the right position. Kind of the reverse of what Paul did at the bottom. I also found the bottoms can be adjusted by pushing in and tightening.

mkassab

02-12-2024, 02:05 PM

Hey Mark, I cut the inner panels horizontally near the bottom of the windows so the top of the door could flex out and then fiber glassed back together when in the right position. Kind of the reverse of what Paul did at the bottom. I also found the bottoms can be adjusted by pushing in and tightening.

Thanks Lewis.... I was also thinking the same thing. Another possible solution I was thinking about, if it's possible I might add, is to separate the outer and inner panels, cause the twist needed, and re-bonding the two panels using the 3M urethane epoxy.

Mark

Lew

02-12-2024, 02:12 PM

I decided that there wasn’t enough meat there to cut them apart and bond back together. Note that I changed the location of the cuts in my previous post.

mkassab

02-13-2024, 07:52 AM

To help with determining the door gaps (i.e., door edges to the cab) I used some crepe tape and a simple compass for my final gapping.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195611&d=1707827296

This worked very well for me. My biggest issue was the fiber glass sanding dust covering up my pencil line :p.

Today, I'll focus on the building of the doors internal components and fixing the passener door issue I highlighted in the above post(s).

Stay tune,
Mark

mkassab

02-14-2024, 08:51 AM

All this Door fitting will be the death of me.... but I will prevail.

As I stated in the above post, the doors are trimmed and fitted. Yesterday, I started the add the latch posts/studs. I thought this would take an hour and ended up half a day for two damn latch studs! Let me explain.

I need two posts to detail several different issues between the passenger and driver's door.

First up, the Left/Passenger Door.

In mocking up the pass door, I quickly discovered that the latch post/stud mounting hole was too high and the slots to lower it were high and prevented me to lower the latch stud mounting plate. I chose to elongate the two mount plate slots. I used two methods, i.e., a carbide burr bit and my belt sander. The first picture is the burr.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195640&d=1707916139

The next picture is my thin belt sander.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195641&d=1707916163

This picture shows the elongated slots and mounting bolts (Sorry, the pic is upside down... but you get the "picture").

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195642&d=1707916185

Then my next issue was apparent... the latch stud was too short, and the head of the stud prevented the latch from closing. So, to lengthen the latch stud, I added two SS washers

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195643&d=1707916220

With the passenger door now latching properly, I moved on to the Driver's door for different issues.... see next post.

to be continued.... Mark

mkassab

02-14-2024, 09:27 AM

So, the first issue with the Driver's door, is the same issue as the Passenger door, i.e., the mount plate slots needed to be elongated the same as the passenger side.... so, I won't repeat that part (refer to last post).

My next issue was the opposite of the latch stud from the Passenger side.... the latch stud is now was too long (vs too short like the passenger side). You can't make this stuff up.

See the red arrows showing the latch stud hitting the door panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195648&d=1707916312

To shorten the latch post / stud is not easy. First, I had to remove the washer that does not side off the stud. I had to cut the washer on both sides to bend and remove it. I used my small reciprocating saw for those cuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195647&d=1707916312

Next, I had to shorten the shoulder on the latch stud. Not an easy task without a "real" lathe.

So, I started with my Dremel tool with a cutting disc (sorry the pic is upside down).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195646&d=1707916312

That was taking too long.... then I thought of making my own lathe.... here's my red-neck lathe and it worked very well. While the drill rotated the stud, the Dremel cut wheel made a clean cut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195645&d=1707916312

Then I added a this SS washer and mounted the stud

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195644&d=1707916312

Feeling good and thinking I was now complete.... the third issue was discovered. Since the stud was too long.... That meant the door gap to the cab was too small. Which meant the three bolt heads (that held the internal door frame and latch in place) now hit the cab. To solve this problem, I removed the hex head bolts and installed 3 SS black button hex head bolts. I also went ahead and changed the passenger door latch bolts so all matched.

I believe "LEW" had the same issue on his truck.... but not sure if it was also the Driver's door?

That's it for my update today. I didn't get nearly the work done I was hoping for. I did get the door outside handles configured though.

Today will be a short workday for me.... we're going out of town to visit some friends and I'll be back in the shop next week. Today, I'll focus on door window installation.

Thanks Mark

Edgeman

02-16-2024, 07:17 PM

mkassab

02-17-2024, 09:40 AM

https://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/rear-hatch---mirrors-other-body-stuff.html
I have attached my build thread. Your fuel filler cap with the key will separate from the main body of the flange if you don't have a ring on the back side to sandwich the pieces together. Its two pieces and just soldiered together.

Thanks Doug.... I think my filler cap is different than yours, but I'll add the backer ring anyway since it will provide extra support and and help keep the fiberglass from flexing. I'm also going to add a backer plate for each door mirror.

Mark

mkassab

02-21-2024, 11:53 AM

Today.... I needed to do something different...

I connected the battery, some gauges and then cranked the engine without gas connected to build oil pressure.

Once that was done, I ran fuel through the gas line at the engine to clear any debris and then connected the line to the fuel rail.

Fire extinguisher in hand, I cranked and woo-hoo, it started first try !! Sounded pretty good too I might add.

Watch quick video.

https://youtu.be/1InRgS82Pnw

And, I didn't need the fire extinguisher!

Mark

mkassab

02-22-2024, 12:40 PM

I'm prepping to fit the two engine bay side panels and I'm doing a little twist to what Paul (edwardB) did.

First, I prepped the area where I'm working with 80 grit sandpaper and wiped well with acetone. Next, I had 1.25" aluminum angle iron and cut two pieces. The angle iron will be ridged and not prone to twisting. I taped the area with cheap box tape that will come into contact with the epoxy urethane.... see pic 1 below

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195898&d=1708621428

After prepping both sides and taped the angle iron I applied a good portion to both the fiberglass side panels and the taped angle iron... pic 2

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195899&d=1708621457

After placing the angle iron, I clamped in place with spring clamps and C-clamp.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195900&d=1708621491

Once the epoxy was set up (about 30 min's) I drilled the six holes in each part and then I popped the angle iron right out.... note that the box tape just doesn't stick to the epoxy. Also note how the epoxy oozed out and up the side of the angle iron. This will provide further support when the two pieces are rejoined and help prevent any twisting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195901&d=1708621525

Lastly, with the angle iron removed, I taped and cut the fiberglass panel with my hand-held band saw (one of my best tools!!) which provides a thin/straight cut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195902&d=1708621636

More to come,
Mark

mkassab

02-23-2024, 09:07 AM

While fitting the hood, I discovered three surprises.

The build manual is really lacking in the hood area. Some examples... I couldn't find anywhere in the manual about installing the bracket to the hood (where the hinge arm attaches); one picture shows a different bracket (i.e., the hood bracket is point down vs forward in one of the pictures).

However, after determining the bracket points forward and making a decision on the position of the backet (again, the manual has noting on this step) I marked where to drill the mounting holes. I had assumed I would need to install rivet nuts to install the 1/4-20 button head bolts. Luckly, I drilled the pilot hole first with a 13/64" bit only to discover that the fiberglass mounting area is backed by aluminum. So, I could tap the threads needed vs using rivet nuts. Again, the manual makes no reference to this. Had I drilled the 3/8" hole needed for the rivet nuts, I'd been screwed! Ref pic 1 below, after I drilled the pilot holes, I simply followed up with a drill/tap bit for the 1/4-20 threads needed for the button head bolts

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195930&d=1708694237

When I was fitting the hood to the cowl, it was raised up on the driver's side. Looking under the hood, I saw the bottom of the hood raised area was hitting the Tilton 3 lids of the brake fluid container. So, I applied painters' tape to the hood area hitting the lids, took a marker to trace around the 3 lids so I knew where to cut the reliefs. The next pic shows I used a hole saw without the pilot bit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195931&d=1708694237

The next shot shows the hood back on and the brake fluid lids fitting nicely in the 3 reliefs I cut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195932&d=1708694237

When I do the body work on the hood, I'll fill the three cavities to finish this area.

Stay Tuned,
Mark

mkassab

02-24-2024, 08:22 AM

As a follow up to the above Hood post above....
While installing the latch post/pin to the hood, I discovered Aluminum there also, so drill carefully so you can tap with a 1/4-20 thread. The manual says install rivet nuts so it's wrong again.

While installing the hood prop rod bracket, that is hollow fiberglass (no aluminum) and I installed 10-32 rivet nuts for that application. The prop rod also needs shorten... I cut off about 2.5".

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195999&d=1708796662

Installing the actual latch to the firewall is a bit tedious to ensure the latch post/pin and the latch is aligned and set to the proper vertical depth. I just applied tape to the firewall, hood closed and flashlight in hand I could use a marker to locate the pin on the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195998&d=1708796662

Update on the grill shroud. FFR is sending me a new one as the original was not trimmed correctly at the factory (i.e., the right side was trimmed to much to make it all fit properly). Once the new shroud is fitted, I can move on to the engine bay side covers.

Today, I'll focus on fabricating the brackets to hold the ECU and radiator overflow tank. Both will be installed in the area between the back of the radiator fan and the front of the engine. I'll document all that later.

Mark

mkassab

02-26-2024, 01:17 PM

After fabricating the brackets to hold my Radiator Coolant overflow tank I got it all installed.

The only place to mount my overflow tank was between the radiator fan and the engine. There was no way the long cylinder tank that came with the kit would work there (too long). So I purchased this 2-liter tank that fit the space available perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196090&d=1708970435

After bolting in the brackets to the frame, I installed the tank and connected all the hoses.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196087&d=1708970435

A nice feature of this tank is the side mounted fluid level tube

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196089&d=1708970435

Here's the back side of the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196088&d=1708970435

I really don't expect too much coolant expansion since I'm going to use Evan's Waterless coolant. Since there is no water and the coolant has a very high boil point, there won't be much PSI pressure to cause the fluid to expand and overflow into the tank. That's my experience from a previous build.

Up next is the ECU mounting. I fabricated the bracket and waiting for the paint to dry. I'll install it tomorrow and share some pics

Stay Tuned,
Mark

mkassab

02-27-2024, 07:49 AM

Withe the ECU bracket fabricated and painted it was time to install it.

Here's the bracket. The lower part of the bracket is bolted to the frame with 4 pan head bolts. This way I can remove easily if needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196165&d=1709036438

The next two pictures show the ECU w/bracket installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196164&d=1709036438

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196163&d=1709036438

I wrapped the ECU with insulation to help guard the ECU from direct heat and water that might spray through the grill/radiator. It should be fine given this pretty much matches the install location in the Mustang with the Coyote engine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196162&d=1709036438

One of the items I'm working on today is a backup hood release. I'm concerned about of the latch connected cable if it ever breaks... i.e., how the heck would I ever get the hood open without damaging the hood if the cable broke?

Stay Tuned,
Mark

mkassab

02-28-2024, 08:16 AM

Yesyerday, I ended my update post with a little tease, i.e., having a backup to open my hood in case the latch cable broke.

I first removed the latch from the firewall to help me figure out what options I had. Once removed, I noticed a small hole in the latch arm next to the post that holds the cable for the factory pull latch opener. Once I saw that hole, I then knew exactly what I would do. You see, back in the day with carburetors, we used a simple manual choke pull cable. Well, as it happens, I had one laying around from a previous car build I never used.... the package was a bit dusty... but it will work

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196198&d=1709123826

Since the Holley choke cable was very long and would need cut, I first mounted the pull knob in an area I could get to open the hood if ever needed. I chose the left side lower firewall. I mounted the L bracket (a left-over parts from the FFR emergency brake handle kit I didn't use) to one of the bolts that held my gas pedal in place

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196197&d=1709123826

Then routed the cable end up to the hood latch. Once I determined the length needed, I carefully cut the cable housing with a Dremel cutting disc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196196&d=1709123826

Once the cable housing was removed and I then cut the actual cable/wire, I bent the wire in the Z shape that will be installed into the latch hole

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196195&d=1709123826

This last pic shows the wire/cable installed and ready to remount to the firewall. I did some test and it opened/closed just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196194&d=1709123826

Later,
Mark

michael everson

02-28-2024, 03:01 PM

Does the latch have enough strength to reset itself with that attached?
Mike

mkassab

02-28-2024, 03:59 PM

Does the latch have enough strength to reset itself with that attached?
Mike

Hi Mike... the latch works just fine.... i.e., no difference at all before or after I installed the backup pull latch opener.

Thx the the question

Mark

mkassab

02-29-2024, 07:41 AM

While waiting for my new radiator/grill cowl, I'm doing other odds and ends, e.g.., more electrical connections, audio wirings, etc.

I finished connecting my E-Stopp electric emergency brake. The instructions said to connect the blue wire to the Ignition Switch so the brake can't be switch on while driving (i.e., If the blue wire senses +12v, you can't set or un-set the e-brake) . I didn't like that because it would mean I'd have to turn off the ignition system before I could set the emergency/parking brake. So, what I did was use the brake light wire and a relay. As most of you know, the relay has a Normally Closed (NC) and a Normally Open (NO) circuit. I connected the Blue wire to the NC which provides the +12v, thereby, preventing the e-Brake from being set. The +12v needed to trigger the relay to change from NC to NO comes from the Brake Light circuit. Thereby, when I depress the brake pedal and the brake light circuit is energized, the relay sends +12v to the NO (open/not connected to anything) and removing the +12v from the NC. With the +12v now removed from the Blue wire, I can set the e-brake. I also will have to press the brake pedal to release the e-brake. I think this is much better then the ignition switch.

I also mounted my Ah-ooo-gah horn. I took advantage of one of the mounting bolts from the coolant overflow can. I used a U shape bracket and a hose clamp around the horn's motor and over the U shape bracket. It's a very secure mount.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196304&d=1709208310

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196305&d=1709208310

more to come,
Mark

mkassab

02-29-2024, 01:07 PM

I had a PM asking about my Exhaust H set up and why I did it. I'll answer in here in my build thread so all can read the response.

An H or X-Pipe is better for the exhaust vs straight pipes.

Why an X-Pipe?
An X-Pipe is, you guessed it, shaped like an x, and allows the exhaust to flow down the path of least resistance. At lower revs, turbulence is formed as exhaust gases try to shuffle past a second column of gases coming from the other side. While always producing more power than the restrictive factory system, the potential gains are not seen until higher rpms are reached. This is where an X-Pipe stands apart from the rest. Exhaust gas is pushed out harder as the engine spins faster. The X-Pipe merges this chaos into two uniform streams, allowing a smooth flow from engine to tailpipe.

Both streams keep each other up to speed, which draws even more spent exhaust out the cylinders. Magnaflow X-Pipes provide a boost in horsepower and a higher tone akin to an exotic car.

Why an H-Pipe?
An H-Pipe is also shaped like its namesake and relies on exhaust expansion to balance the cylinder banks. A small section of tubing in between the main pipes provides an area for gases to expand into during exhaust pulses. Only a small amount of exhaust flows from one stream to the other as both sides push back and forth in the center section. Flow master H-Pipes feature low restriction, so gains in performance are noticed from low rpm and give the exhaust a deeper, muscle car-like tone.

While both X and H pipes serve the same purpose, they use different methods to build power and economy, all while providing a distinctive sound. Think of an X-Pipe as being at home in a high-winding modern V6 or V8 while an H-Pipe conjures memories of tire-shredding torque in classic American iron.

An X-pipe's supposed advantage is that because the bends are smoother at the convergence, the flow and scavenging are both better, and hence the X-pipe is worth more power.

Most V8s do not fire symmetrically, i.e. alternating left bank right bank, so the X or H pipe balances the pulses or waves between the two mufflers and tailpipes creating a more efficient flow..

Hopes this helps.

Mark

Just 1 More

02-29-2024, 03:28 PM

https://dai.ly/x5s8nr8

mkassab

02-29-2024, 04:18 PM

https://dai.ly/x5s8nr8

Thanks Just 1 More.... this Engine Masters video resulted it what I've heard...... H pipe better for lower RPM and thumper sound. The X pipe sound (based on a previous build I've done) sound more high rev/sports car sound.

For my truck, I like the thumper sound. At the end of the day.... each his/her own there is no wrong answer.

Thanks for sharing.

Mark

mkassab

03-01-2024, 10:33 AM

I applied 2K Clear Coat to the Grill, both rear taillight brackets and the lic plate bracket.

In keeping with the "brushed" steel look like I did with the Steering column, I simply did light sanding on all the parts. In pic 1 below, I stated with a sanding wheel on all the parts. Then hand sanded where the sanding wheel couldn't reach.... and yes, the grill's vertical ribs where tedious to say the least. After the sanding, I cleaned all parts with Acetone several times.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196328&d=1709305877

This next pic shows I placed cardboard behind the grill to help protect the radiator and AC condenser. Also note the hanging parts in front of the grill ready for clear coating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196329&d=1709305902

The next three parts have all been clear coated. It's hard to see "clear", but it came out very well. The Clear on the brushed metal kind of gave a "satin" look. Perfect for wait I wanted. The clear coat on the grill is especially important with it be aluminum to help prevent oxidation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196330&d=1709305933

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196331&d=1709305955

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196332&d=1709305971

Up next, while still waiting for the grill's cowl fiberglass, I'll prep the rear taillights and headlights.

stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

03-02-2024, 10:18 AM

Some lessons learned and modifications of the Headlight and Taillight wiring instructions and my mockups.

First the Headlights. The instructions refer to the smaller red and green wires on the back of the headlight unit. Well, they are red and yellow. They also refer to the red as DRL (daylight running lights) and the yellow (green) as the turn signal. If you want DRLs you need to run a +12v hot from the ignition sw. Our wire harness has to each headlight a ground, Hi beam, Low beam, turn and Park). I didn't want DRL, so I connected the Red to the Park and the Yellow to the Turn. The park is a White light, and the turn is Amber light. As you'll see in the pic, I ran the two extra wires in the plastic sleeve.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196349&d=1709390588

For the taillights, the first pic is showing the spliced wires that will run through the flexible coil SS wire conduit

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196353&d=1709390973

As you'll see in the next pic, I didn't follow the instructions by drilling a 1/8" hole in the bulb socket plate. Instead, I removed the entire socket that's pressed in the taillight housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196352&d=1709390973

After cutting the 12" length of the flexible coil SS wire conduit, I ran the wires through the cut end first and then put the cut end into the taillight housing and used a hot glue gun to hold the coil and wires in place. The next two pics show both taillights. What you don't see in the pictures is I also hot glued the outside also. The provided wire way cover will cover the hot glue.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196351&d=1709390973

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196350&d=1709390973

On a side note, the 2K clear coat came out so well, I'm also going to clear coat the engine bay side cover vents and the brushed aluminum windshield wipers.

more to follow,
Mark

mkassab

03-07-2024, 08:32 AM

Quick update. While waiting for my replacement grill/radiator cowl, I'm doing lots of miscellaneous tasks (most aren't worth adding to this build thread).

A couple, I'll mention here, are the door jam parts and the bumper/radiator coolant connection.

First the door jamb switches and rubber wireway looms I picked up from Amazon. The switches will provide a "ground" when the doors are opened to the interior doom lights (I shared in an earlier post in this thread) and also an input to the security system. The switches I purchased have a rather long probe that you can cut to work in various opening gaps. I also bought larger rubber wireway looms for the wires (for the electric windows and speakers I'll add to the door card panels) that offer less strain and twisting with the "Z" shape vs a straight loom that will buckle and bend.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196562&d=1709815781

Next, I want to get the radiator coolant added, but to do that, I had to install the front bumper I fabricated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185329&d=1685787955

in the next two pics, you can clearly see why I had to install the bumper first as I had to run the return radiator host through the bumper frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196561&d=1709815781

This pic shows the long run down from the Coyote's thermostat housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196560&d=1709815781

Mark

mkassab

03-09-2024, 09:19 AM

With the coolant system all buttoned up, it's time to add the coolant.

I'm using a waterless coolant product by Evans. With no water, the boiling point is very high at ~375* F and no corrosion. Also, with the high boiling point, the PSI is very low at ~4-5psi. Lastly, it's more efficient of cooling the engine with the heat transfer being better than water. I've used this product before with very good results.

For adding the coolant, I'm using my Airlift system I've used in every build and personal auto.
The Airlift provides several benefits:
1. It works by first drawing a vacuum on the cooling system. Once the vacuum gets to ~26 you close the valve. This will hold the vacuum if you have no leaks anywhere. If the vacuum starts to drop, you find the leak and fix it.
2. Once the system holds the vacuum, you place the Evans antifreeze in a bucket, drop in a pickup hose and attach the other end of the pickup hose to the valve. When you open the valve, the vacuum will suck in the antifreeze with no voids and eliminating any hot spots.

The lid of the Airlift and instructions

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196617&d=1709990365

Filling the 5 gal bucket with antifreeze. The coolant is the color of apple juice.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196618&d=1709990770

In the next pic, you see the air compressor airline connected to the valve. When air passes through the Venturi Assembly, it creates a vacuum in the cooling system via the venturi effect. Note the Vacuum gauge showing ~26. A reading of 30 is considered a full 100% vacuum.... but the system used here will only go to ~26. With a vacuum pump used on the AC system you can get to ~29.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196619&d=1709990802

In the last pic below, you can see the vacuum on the cooling system sucking up the antifreeze out of the bucket, thereby filling the radiator, engine block, heater and all the hoses.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196620&d=1709991770

Mark

mkassab

03-11-2024, 08:41 AM

A friend of mind gave me a well made replica of a Ford's early "30s radiator cap thermometer. It's really well made and functional.

I'm thinking of mounting it on my grill/radiator cowl. I'd like any feedback on this as our "35 builds would have had one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196621&d=1709991803

And the back side clearly showing the thermometer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196622&d=1709991822

Your thoughts most welcome.

The base of the thermometer is brass and has 7/16-20 threads.

Thx Mark

mkassab

03-15-2024, 01:06 PM

I'm now fitting the hood to the grill cowl. My issue and what I need help/advice with is the front left and right bottom of the hood. The issue is the hood is tight against the cowl. I know the lower part of the hood gets trimmed to fit the engine bay side covers, but the hood is still too narrow and tight against the cowl. The cowl is pulled tight against frame's mounting tab.... so, it's the hood vs the cowl.

I'd think I'm not the only one with this issue and I'm looking for guidance/help on what to do. Any ideas weldcome.

Left side looking forward.... you can see cowl sticking out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196887&d=1710525073

Right side with cowl sticking out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196888&d=1710525073

Help,
Mark

DonS

03-15-2024, 02:21 PM

edwardb

03-15-2024, 02:54 PM

mkassab

03-15-2024, 05:59 PM

Mark, I have exactly the same issue. I thought with the bottom edge trimmed, that that would be sufficient, but I'm having my doubts. Can't pull the cowl in any tighter. Does the entire rear edge of the cowl need to be trimmed off ? DonS

Don, I don't think you wand to remove the rear edge of the cowl.... there must be another way.

Mark

mkassab

03-15-2024, 06:14 PM

Mine was the same way. Also didn't sit flat, e.g. was high on one side versus the other. Don't remember who suggested it, but I put bumpers all around the cowl that forced it out to match. Then put the hood out in direct sunlight on my driveway for a couple hours. In the summer for Michigan. Not now. :rolleyes: The black absorbs heat so it got pretty warm. Quickly moved it back onto the chassis and the bumpers and strapped down. Left if for a day or whatever and it matched quite well and sat flat. Your experience may vary but that worked for me.

I had a similar issue in the front where the hood matches the radiator surround and engine covers. It pinched there a bit too. I wasn't as successful getting it a lot better. I sanded the underside of the hood in that area as much as I thought I could and also ended up putting Xpel on the engine sides to keep from damaging the paint as it opened and closed. It was pretty OK but never perfect.

In general, I spent a lot of time getting all the fiberglass pieces to match up acceptably. Once painted, it all blended together and looked decent. But not sure it's possible to get the same fit and gaps as a metal body. Not without way more time and effort than I was willing to spend.

Thanks Paul. I'll try the sun.

When you put the rubber bumpers on the cowl.... how did you prevent the open hood from smashing the bumpers when closing it?

I have a couple ideas:

1. I was thinking of a wedge type deal made of steel or aluminum where the hood would hit the very thin part of the wedge and being forced open/out as the hood is closed.
2. I was also going to experiment with a thick wedge between the bracket on the underside of the hood where the hinge bracket connects to see if the hood bottom side would spread some.... but the bracket may be too far back from the front of the hood to help any in that area?
3. Lastly, another thought that occurred to me was some sort of rod from the underside of the center of the hood, one left and one right... i.e., rod from center of the hood to the lower inside corner of the front of the hood to "push" it out? I realize there's lot of obstacles to get around, e.g., top coolant hose/cap, etc. If the obstacles can be overcome, the center of the underside of the hood would need stiffen/built up so the rod force does cause an hump/bump in the top of the hood.

Anyway.... I'll wait to see if others chime in

Thanks

edwardb

03-15-2024, 08:06 PM

Thanks Paul. I'll try the sun.

When you put the rubber bumpers on the cowl.... how did you prevent the open hood from smashing the bumpers when closing it?

Don't overcomplicate it. Try simple first. I found once it was in the sun and relaxed against the bumpers, it opened and closed without the bumpers being a factor. I also used medium hard ones.

mkassab

03-16-2024, 11:58 AM

Lew

03-16-2024, 12:42 PM

OK, based on some input from Paul.... my first attempt to "bow" out the lower corners of the front of the hood is shown in the pics below. I pulled each corner out about 3/8" and wedged some wood blocks between the fiberglass and the hinge arms. I then applied heat via a heat gun both outside and inside the hood area. I'll do this several times a day over several days and let the blocks in for several days.

Lastly, the button head screws that hold the engine side covers via a bracket that bolts to the grill cowl will also hold the hood out. The button head can be adjusted out by adding washers as needed. I'll also bevel the inside of the hood to help the hood slide over the button head.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196912&d=1710607663

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196911&d=1710607663

Fingers Crossed,
Mark
Hey Mark, I found that the button heads spread the front of the hood out to very close to even. At the rear I’m considering a positioning wedge for lining up as it closes.

For the doors I found that your knee at bottom and pulling out the top as you tighten the bolts gives a lot of adjustment. Also I read on facebook where someone used a couple of pipe wrenches to twist the door metal for top to bottom alignment.

Lewis

mkassab

03-16-2024, 01:46 PM

Hey Mark, I found that the button heads spread the front of the hood out to very close to even. At the rear I’m considering a positioning wedge for lining up as it closes.

For the doors I found that your knee at bottom and pulling out the top as you tighten the bolts gives a lot of adjustment. Also I read on facebook where someone used a couple of pipe wrenches to twist the door metal for top to bottom alignment.

Lewis

Thx Lewis. The wedges at the rear makes sense. Back when I did a '68 Triumph TR-250 they used wedges for the hood to center it. I guess you could buy larger wedges for a pick axe or sledge hammer to hold the head to the wood handle, grind them smooth and glue in place... or spot weld a 10-24 threaded stud to the back side and bolt in place? Time will tell on that part.

I now have the engine covers fitted and still need to cut the hood on the underside of the bulge (beltline). Once the front fender is fitted, I'll cut out the openings for the engine vents in the eng side covers.

Mark

Lew

03-16-2024, 01:56 PM

Thx Lewis. The wedges at the rear makes sense. Back when I did a '68 Triumph TR-250 they used wedges for the hood to center it. I guess you could buy larger wedges for a pick axe or sledge hammer to hold the head to the wood handle, grind them smooth and glue in place... or spot weld a 10-24 threaded stud to the back side and bolt in place? Time will tell on that part.

I now have the engine covers fitted and still need to cut the hood on the underside of the bulge (beltline). Once the front fender is fitted, I'll cut out the openings for the engine vents in the eng side covers.

Mark

What are you using for the vents? I haven’t been able to decide yet.

mkassab

03-16-2024, 02:06 PM

What are you using for the vents? I haven’t been able to decide yet.

I bought the same vents that Paul got. In his build thread he gives the vender he used. I even had the vents anodized clear by the vender that made the vents (he uses a local vendor to him). That way the vents will match the grill and steering column

Mark

mkassab

03-16-2024, 02:15 PM

mkassab

03-16-2024, 02:39 PM

Lewis, et. al., here's the link to the vendor that the side vents came from:

http://www.streetdreamsbyross.com/vents.php

Mark

mkassab

03-17-2024, 08:10 AM

I fitted the grill cowl, and it came out well. However, the cowl was too big relative to the grill, i.e., When the top and sides of the cowl were fitted, the bottom seam when touching caused the bottom sides of the cowl to stick out. The only option I had was to cut ~1/2" off the cowl bottom which eliminated the vertical piece that would have been bolted to the other side of the cowl. Instead of making a new vertical, I just used a piece of leftover aluminum that I'll attach via pop rivets to hold the seam together. It will never be seen .... so good enough for me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196934&d=1710679599

For the top of the cowl, when I bolted the top back of the cowl to the bracket that extends from the top of the grill, it lifted the front center of the cowl about 1/8" off/above the grill. To remedy this situation, I incorporated my early '30s Ford radiator thermometer I shared earlier in this thread. I simply drilled through the centerline of the cowl top and into the solid portion of the grill/cowl bracket... then tapped with a 7/16-20 tap that the radiator thermometer could screw into.... that solved the raised cowl and added my "hood ornament". I really like the outcome

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196933&d=1710679599

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196932&d=1710679599

Today, I'll finish the side cover fitment and start with the front fenders, running boards and rear fender fitment.

Stay tuned,
Mark

edwardb

03-17-2024, 11:15 PM

Love the radiator thermometer. You'll have a good time with the old-time "experts" telling you the original '35 didn't have one... I rarely had my truck at a show or cars and coffee where someone told me I had the wrong grille, wrong wipers, wrong whatever. Seems many of the so-called experts of cars of that era feel it's their place to tell you what's not authentic about yours. I would try to explain it was a tribute to a '35 truck and nothing about it was authentic. From the frame, suspension, fiberglass body, LS3 engine (the hood was always open), etc. But that didn't matter. Kind of got on my nerves to be honest.

mkassab

03-18-2024, 07:16 AM

mkassab

03-18-2024, 07:40 AM

OK, based on some input from Paul.... my first attempt to "bow" out the lower corners of the front of the hood is shown in the pics below. I pulled each corner out about 3/8" and wedged some wood blocks between the fiberglass and the hinge arms. I then applied heat via a heat gun both outside and inside the hood area. I'll do this several times a day over several days and let the blocks in for several days.

Lastly, the button head screws that hold the engine side covers via a bracket that bolts to the grill cowl will also hold the hood out. The button head can be adjusted out by adding washers as needed. I'll also bevel the inside of the hood to help the hood slide over the button head.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196912&d=1710607663

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196911&d=1710607663

Fingers Crossed,
Mark

I wanted to follow-up with the Hood fitment using the wood blocks and heat gun. I only waited ~24 hours and removed the blocks. I trimmed the bottom edge of the hood using the multitool.... it made fast and straight work with little dust. The multitool isn't used much, but sure handy when needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196981&d=1710764711

Then I closed the hood and Paul's word that heat is you friend here is true..... the front lower edge of the hood was expanded/spread just right.

Mark

mkassab

03-19-2024, 07:15 AM

Another milestone met, the front & rear fenders and running boards installed!

All-in-all, the installation went well and easier than I anticipated. The most tedious part was the two rear fenders where you have to cut out for the four raised ribs on the truck bed sides, i.e., lots of on/off with the fenders to ensure a good fit

Here's a shot of the right side. The two post lift sure made it a lot easier standing vs laying on the ground. Also, if you look closely where the very front of the front fender meets the grill/radiator cowl, you'll see a black line on the green tape. This black line indicated the bottom of the 7th rib of the grill. I did this on both sides to ensure an even mounting of the fenders.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196982&d=1710764745

Here's a shot of the front fender underside. I haven't drilled the 1/4" holes yet for the bolt mounting..... I started with 3/16" cleco clip fasteners

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196983&d=1710764934

And the last two pics of the rear fender underside front and rear respectively.

Front half:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196984&d=1710764960

Rear half:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196985&d=1710764993

Question for those that have installed fenders.... did you use bolt, fender washers and nuts or rivet-nuts? I feel rivet-nuts wouldn't be as good as fender washers and nuts for the "hold" power and also the rivet-nuts would introduce a small gap between the sides and the fenders because the rivet-nuts have the ridge on the outside. Thoughts?

Planned work for today is Making the Hood Tiedown leather straps and cutting in the engine side covers vents. If that goes quickly, I'll shoot for the headlight mounting also.

Mush more to follow,
Mark

edwardb

03-19-2024, 09:02 PM

Question for those that have installed fenders.... did you use bolt, fender washers and nuts or rivet-nuts? I feel rivet-nuts wouldn't be as good as fender washers and nuts for the "hold" power and also the rivet-nuts would introduce a small gap between the sides and the fenders because the rivet-nuts have the ridge on the outside. Thoughts?
Mark

I did a mixture of rivnuts and bolts/nuts on mine. Basically, anywhere it was difficult to access the back side I installed rivnuts. As I recall, that was mainly the bed sides and the fenders. Where the rivnuts were in fiberglass, I put fender washers on the back sides of the rivnuts before pulling them. Eliminated the possibility of them pulling through the fiberglass. I didn't find the added thickness of the rivnuts was an issue. I was especially happy I did it that way since the thing was taken apart and put back together multiple times.

mkassab

03-20-2024, 07:46 AM

Well, I didn't get everything done that I planned on, but I did get the Hood leather straps and buckles made.

When I first bought the kit (a year ago.... time flies!) I oiled the leather with a high-quality leather conditioner that will help with the sun and rain. I did the same with the leather bits that came with the kit, i.e., door swing and tailgate straps.

I first determined the overall length I needed the tie down straps needed to be. Then cut the leather, 3 sections needed for each side.

I had to punch out 3/16"s holes for the "fake" rivets

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197077&d=1710937132

Once the holes were punched, it was quick work to assemble the parts. I added a small amount of blue Loctite to each nut

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197078&d=1710937158

The next pit shows the approximate location I'll install the straps.... but before I can drill any holes in the body, I had to do the next step

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197079&d=1710937183

As you can see in the pic below, I installed the straps on a piece of plywood, I attached the straps with about 3/8" further apart from the normal "latched" position. I did this to "pre-stretch" the straps. I'll leave them stretch until I'm sure all the play is out of them, then layout and drill the attachment holes needed for final installation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197080&d=1710937208

One worry I have is the straps may mar/scratch the final paint.... so, I plan to add some 3M clear bra material behind each strap. I'll show this when that step happens.

stay tuned
Mark

mkassab

03-20-2024, 08:16 AM

I did a mixture of rivnuts and bolts/nuts on mine. Basically, anywhere it was difficult to access the back side I installed rivnuts. As I recall, that was mainly the bed sides and the fenders. Where the rivnuts were in fiberglass, I put fender washers on the back sides of the rivnuts before pulling them. Eliminated the possibility of them pulling through the fiberglass. I didn't find the added thickness of the rivnuts was an issue. I was especially happy I did it that way since the thing was taken apart and put back together multiple times.

Thanks Paul.... seems like strategic use of rivnuts are in order.

Mark

mkassab

03-21-2024, 01:48 PM

I have the headlights mounted and that was pretty easy and straight forward. I measured several different ways to ensure each headlight is exactly in the same relative position on the fender, i.e., left/right and front/back.

What I wasn't happy with was how easy it will be for the headlight to vibrate/shake when driving down the road. Since this will be a daily drive for me.... I came up with a way to add additional headlight mount support directly to the frame.

The spot on the frame to mount the support brace will be the pilot hole on the radiator/grill brace (note the green tape with the arrow pointing to the pilot hole). I'll drill and tap to 1/4-20. On the other end of the brace will be the U shape bracket that will bolt on to the headlight 1/2" stud. I had this U shape in my metal scrap pile and I only had to cut to the proper length drill the 1/2" hole in it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197115&d=1711045234

In the next picture, you can see I used the long ss bracket FFR supplied in the kit that was to support the rear bed side if I didn't use fenders. (If you purchase fenders like I did, the kit comes with shorter brackets to support both the bed side and the rear fender. After cutting to the proper length and twisting a little to get both end surfaces flush with the mounting surfaces, I clamped the two brackets together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197116&d=1711045274

Clamped and ready for welding

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197117&d=1711045309

Two support brackets welded and ready for used. I just need to coat the U bracket to prevent rust.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197118&d=1711045415

Lastly, I laid out the area on the engine side panels that I'll cut out for my engine vents shown in earlier posts in this thread. This will get cut out after I remove the eng side panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197114&d=1711045196

stay tuned
Mark

mkassab

03-22-2024, 07:52 AM

One note on the headlights and one question.

First the note.... both of my headlight bucket enclosures had slight swivel/rotation where the base is riveted to the housing buckets. The only possible explanation is the holes for the rivets were larger than the rivet diameter. I could have added additional attachments like screws or pop rivets... but I went an easier route. I scratched up the metal bucket and the base with a file and applied epoxy to stop the rotation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197134&d=1711107248

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197133&d=1711107248

Another item I'm worried about is these buckets made of steel & chrome plated and I'm very concerned about rust inside the bucket (I'm pretty sure they are steel vs ss since a Magnet sticks like crazy... and yes, I know some stainless will allow a magnet to stick so I could be wrong on them being steel). Also, there is no drain hole..... so, my question is, has anyone drilled a weep hole in the bottom of the bucket?

For now, I'll coat the bucket's inside with some sort of coating to help prevent rust and live with the steel buckets for now. Speedway Motors sells Stainless Steel Buckets if the buckets rust out.

Mark

mkassab

03-23-2024, 12:51 PM

Part 1 of 2.

I started the cutting of the bed side to add stacks for the bed rails. I bought from FFR the bedside stack pockets.... but had to cut through the stainless-steel liner so the bed stakes can enter the pockets.

I first laid out the stake openings based on the center of the stake pockets below. I drilled from the bottom up with a 1/8" drill bit to locate the inside center of the pocket. Then drilled the four corners and started with a Dremel cutting wheel for the rough opening. I must say, the ss is very hard on the cutting wheel. I went through ~2 cutting discs per stake hole. And the Dremel cutting wheels aren't cheap.... at about $2.41/disc

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197170&d=1711214319

Next, to open up the rough cut out for the stake hole I used a hand metal file and my small belt sander to match the size of the stakes (1 7/8" x 1 1/8")

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197171&d=1711214342

I'll get all four stake holes cut out and sized correctly then proceed to fit the stakes and rails.

I'll cover that part tomorrow with Part 2 of 2.

Lastly, here's a pic of the truck for the first time with the fenders, running boards and wheels and tires on and sitting on the ground. Setting low and mean looking I believe.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197176&d=1711215910

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

03-24-2024, 07:46 AM

OK, here's the final prep.... Part 2 of 2 of the Bedside Rails and Stakes.

The first couple of pics show the general layout of the rails and all clamped in place so I can now drill the holes to fasten them all together. I'll use ss screws, nuts and washers. I'll also put a washer between the rail and the stake to allow a some air gap to help prevent and moisture being trapped between the wood.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197172&d=1711214365

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197173&d=1711214403

In the next pic below, you can see how the FFR Bed side Stake Pockets will cover the wood stakes. With all this mockup, it will allow me to epoxy the Stake Pockets in place on the Bed Side for final bodywork and paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197174&d=1711214438

To hold the stakes in place, I'll drill 2 holes into the stake from the inside bed side. On the backside of the stake, I'll counter sink a T-nut. I'll show details later once I'm finished the mockup.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197175&d=1711214468

Mark

mkassab

03-25-2024, 07:55 AM

I was asked in a PM to show the hardware I plan to use.

For the Rail to Stake, here's the inside view:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197278&d=1711370214

Rail to stake outside view with acorn nut:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197277&d=1711370192

Bed Side to stake inside view

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197280&d=1711370262

T-nut on the outside hidden(blind side) by the Stake Pocket. I still need to counter sink the T-nut so it's flush with wood stake

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197279&d=1711370246

Mark

mkassab

03-27-2024, 08:14 AM

Yesterday was spent taking the fenders and running boards off as there is no longer a need for them now that they are fitted and ready for final body work.

This also allowed me to remove the engine side covers to install the louvered vents. I first made a template of the vents and tapped the opening. I used a jig saw to cut out the opening and flat file to clean up the cut.

Lewis.... when you come to get the oil cooler and fan, I'll give you the template if you decided to order the same vents

Next, I used some popsicle sticks for the gap between the side panel and the backside of the vents. Taped them in place both front and back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197357&d=1711541969

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197358&d=1711542009

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197359&d=1711542046

Then I removed the vent tabs that will hold the vent in place. I used 40 grit on the fiberglass and the backside of the tab. I drilled three holes in each tab to help with a secure bond (copied Paul's process) and cleaned both surfaces with acetone. I used the 3M epoxy used in earlier posts to set the vent tabs and clamped in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197360&d=1711542079

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197361&d=1711542107

Now, I can start the bodywork on the radiator cowl, hood, cab and doors while it's still all mounted on the chassis. Once I get the panel's surfaces matching, I can then remove all the fiberglass from the chassis for final bodywork, primer and paint.

This is bitter sweet for me and it's the first time doing body and paint on one hand and nearing the finish line on the other.

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

04-01-2024, 07:57 AM

Over the weekend, I tore down the body off the chassis and I'm now diving headfirst into body prep.

My first focus will be the cab and removing the LizardSkin that didn't stick to the inside of the cab. This time around, I'll grind to clean and scuff the interior fiberglass then wipe down with acetone before reapplying the two LizardSkin products (i.e., Sound and Heat)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197540&d=1711974366

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197541&d=1711974387

I'll also cleanup the wiring

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197543&d=1711974414

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197544&d=1711974440

After basic body panel prep for initial filler and flat sanding, I'll start the various primers and final sanding before paint.

I've never done body and paint before, so it's a learning experience for me. I have a lofty goal to be complete with paint and body back on the chassis by end of May, 2024. We have a trip planned for the first week of May.... so, I have approx 7 weeks to meet my goal. Then my next goal will be the truck is complete before we go on our next trip mid to end of June.

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

04-03-2024, 08:16 AM

Quick update.

Striping the old, flaking LizardSkin product was easy in some spots and very difficult in others. I ended up using my pressure washers to strip the difficult areas.... worked well. As I was cleaning, I was also thinking about the final finish for the roof of the cab. I decided to add some wood strips (ferring strips) to attach the roof cover to.

I simply ripped 1/2" strips from a 1 x 4 pine board and glued them in place with 3M 5200 polyurethane and weighed the strip down to match the contour of the roof.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197661&d=1712148968

I'll then cover the wood ribs masking tape and respray the cab with the two LizardSkind sound and heat products.

More later on all this,

Mark

mkassab

04-05-2024, 08:09 AM

After cleaning and scuffing the cab's interior, I changed my mind on the LizardSkin. I had other sound and heat options from other builds I've done. And to be very honest, after my bad experience with LizardSkin peeling off and my plan to glue my interior cover to the side walls.... well, I was very concerned about the interior side cover not staying in place because of my fear LizardSkin would fail over time.

I first cleaned all the interior surfaces again with Acetone. Then proceed with a Dynamat type butyl rubber backed by aluminum foil.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197861&d=1712319904

Then I covered most of the foil backed butyl rubber with this product.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197862&d=1712319948

This material is about 1/2" thick, heavy dense foam backed by a very sticky adhesive. Both the butyl rubber and foam will be great for sound, vibration and heat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197863&d=1712319968

I also covered the back panels with the foam mats.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197864&d=1712320017

Lastly, I cut 1/4" lauan plywood to fit the roof that I'll cover with the diamond padded vinyl for the finish look and a fiber material for the sides. I'll add this after painting. Then I'll set the completed interior cab back on the chassis. It's much easier to do the interior while the cab is off the chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197865&d=1712320051

Some of you may be wondering why the gap in front of the plywood. Well, you may recall from earlier posts I made an overhead gauge panel that fit tight to the cab's roof.... so, I had to leave room for the gauge panel to fit

Stay tuned,
Mark

mkassab

04-08-2024, 07:15 AM

Since I'm doing my Cab's body work and paint off the chassis, I had to build a frame system for the bottom of the cab to stiffen it up, with the cab to be up off the ground and be able to move it easily by myself.

Came up with the design below

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197957&d=1712576961

I didn't want to drill holes in the cab's base, so I used fender washers to hold the cab to the wood frame

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197958&d=1712576985

In the picks below, note the long front to back runners.... they are 30" apart, the same as the moving dolly I have. I simply clamp the dolly to the frame to hold in place while I roll the cab where I want it. Then, I can unclamp it, lift the front of the cab to tilt backwards and simply remove the dolly for a firm cab stance on the ground for sanding, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197959&d=1712577001

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197960&d=1712577026

When I'm done with body and paint, I'll place the cab on my lift's arms to complete the interior while comfortably standing inside the cab. I'll also use the lift to lower the cab back on the chassis.

More to follow,
Mark

mkassab

04-15-2024, 07:50 AM

During my body work on the bed side panels, I had to add some "parts". You might recall that I bought from FFR the Stake Pockets option. Well, by installing the pockets you hide the rear mounting area and, thereby, can't access the mounting button head screw. So, my fix was to install a couple rivnuts to each of the rear side panels so I can install the screws from the inside vs the outside.

Since the side panel has pretty thick fiberglass and the upper hole also had the ss wrap, the standard rivnut wouldn't work, i.e., not enough grip area was exposed for proper rivnut expansion..... so, I found this type of rivnut which worked out great.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198259&d=1713184315

In the next pic, I bonded the stake pocket to the bed side with 3M's High Strength Repair Filler (HSRF). I scuffed up the bed side and stake pocket mounting surfaces with 40 grit and applied the HSRF to the stake pocket and pressed on the pockets to the bedside. 30 min's later, I was cleaning up the HSRF that squeezed out. I'll show the finished panel later in another post.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198260&d=1713184342

More to follow,
Mark