Mark's '35 Truck Build Extended w/Gen 3 Coyote

[DonImbimbo]

Hi Mark,
I'm finally getting around to installing my grill cowl. And I found large gaps at the sides after the top edge was fitted. Sounds like I have the same problem you had with it being aggressively trimmed at FFR. I'll email them today and see what they say.

But I have another question: Did you use that T shaped piece of aluminum that is supposed to mount the lower chin of the cowl to the frame?



Thx for taking the time to reply,

[mkassab]

Hey Don.... I did use the T-Aluminum..... however, as I stated in my posts, I had to trim the lower fiberglass and make my own support to hold the lower cowl together.

Mark

[DonImbimbo]

Mark,

Did you have any issues getting the hood hinge to line up? I'm noticing that the hinge arm is perpendicular to the radiator but the hood bracket (that mounts to that hidden aluminum block) seems to be at a very different angle. Did you have to re-bend the bracket or hood arm?

Seems to be off by 13 degrees or so.

Or maybe I'm missing something.

[DonS]

Don, send me your email and I’ll send you photos of how I dealt with this issue. DonS.

[mkassab]

Don, I did have to bend and shape each hood hinge bracket/arms.... A few twists and bends. I took my time, test fit and off again as need to get each side perfect. A large bench vice will be your friend here.... I also use an adjustable wrench for the twisting. Happy to discuss if needed via a phone call.

Good luck, Mark

[Grandpas Garage]

A few more items showed up yesterday.

First up, I received my engine side cover vents. I had then clear anodized which should help with preventing corrosion. These will allow the small engine compartment to dissipate some heat and I think they look good and period correct. I also plan on wrapping the headers/exhaust pipes and shields atop the mufflers (I have this stuff on order also).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173345&d=1664967640

This last pic shows two products, 1) Lizard Skin, a heat and sound proofing system with spray gun, and 2) Raptor protective coating and spray gun (like truck bed liner). I'll spray the Lizard Skin in the cab (e.g., cab body, floor, door interiors and firewall). I may also do the underside of the hood and engine side covers. For the Raptor product, I'll spray the underside of the 4 fenders and running boards. I'll most likely also spray the underside of both the floor pans and truck bed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=173346&d=1664967768

Stay tune, "stuff" coming in each day/week.
Mark
What was the sorce for your side vents? I am having heat issues and I think I need to add side hood vents to help in cooling the engine bay.

[mkassab]

Grandpa... here's the link: http://www.streetdreamsbyross.com/vents.php I bought the same vent that Paul did for his '35 truck. I also had the grill vents "anodized" by Street Dreams.

Good luck,
Mark

[mkassab]

Well, the day finally arrived when I've completed all the house updates. I then focused on the shop, i.e., unpacked all the boxes, built a couple workbenches, hung "stuff", connected air compressors/lines, and laid out all it '35 parts. In addition, I installed lots of extra LED lights around the primary work areas. I'll also be buying a scissor jack.

I'll be cleaning up some wiring and then it's mostly body work and painting. I'll document all that as I progress. My goal is by Spring 2025 it's complete.

A few pics show the completed shop.

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209116&d=1736859413

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209117&d=1736859441

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209118&d=1736859486

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209119&d=1736859522

[Lew]

Good to see you back!

[mkassab]

Thanks Lewis. It your truck painted and complete yet?

Mark

[mkassab]

To finish my build, I need to complete body and paint (along with my interior)..... but, I need the weather to be warmer to do all the prep/sanding outdoors so I don't "dust up" the entire shop. So, I'm focusing my "winter time" to wrap-up the interior as much as possible. I shared a few pics below of my start, i.e., Carpet and Speakers. I'm upgrading my carpet from FFR's supplied carpet (I'll use FFR carpet as a template, after I fit it, to cut the new carpet). It's better carpet and more "period correct". I started on the back panel where I have a pair of tri-axial speakers and a pair of subwoofers. I also have speakers for the cab front I'll show later.

However, I do have questions on what I can do before the CAB is put back on.... examples, can I install the dash, the seatbelts/shoulder belt brackets to the roll cage, etc. I'd like to also install the roof liner before the cab is put in place??

INPUT needed to the above questions. Any thoughts, cautions, got-yas most welcome!

Thx Mark

BACK PANEL:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209607&d=1737897427

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209608&d=1737897459

Passenger Side floor:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209609&d=1737897493

[mkassab]

OK, I just answered one of my questions..... you can't install dash before the cab as the dash bolts to the cab flange along the door opening and preventing the cab slipping behind the dash flange.

Mark

[Pat Landymore]

Howdy Mark.

Now it might be because my truck was an early build (sn# 0059) and it might be in part the mildly affected right hand from a stroke a few years prior to 2019 when I was building the ‘35….

All that aside I can recall terrible access to one of the upper door hinge bolts to frame…don’t recall now whether it was just LHS or both.

Can tell you if i were to do it all over again the temptation to drill holes in the doorframe and/or change assy instructions and weld a nut or two to the backside of the supporting structure (on the body frame) for the door and put a bolt in from the opposite side from recommendations…would be very tempting.

This as mentioned, could be my experience only…but it’s very little time for you to do a ‘dry run’ whilst the body is still off.

My 2 cents…hopefully helpful.

Cheers,
Pat

[mkassab]

Thanks Pat.... you are correct, if the dash was in place, the upper inside hinge bolts would be impossible to get to..... so, no dash until the cab and doors are in place.

Thanks for your comments,

Mark

[mkassab]

While installing the interior, I had to complete all the wiring, e.g., speakers, security alarm and my front and rear dash cam.

The pic below is the unit being installed. The rear camera plugs into the main front camera. Both front and rear camera views are displayed on the color lcd monitor on the backside of the front camera. Also, the main mount has GPS and the GPS position is also recorded. This unit was highly rated during my research.

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209772&d=1738160666

[mkassab]

I just wanted to share the end results of me registering and titling of my '35 Truck.

As the pic shows, my tag and registration, Tennessee registered and titled my truck as a 1935 Ford F5R. I bought the '35 License Plate/tag off eBay and they used it. And since it's an antique, it's a permanent tag with NO yearly registration fee. Also, they used FFR Ser # for my VIN. Lastly, no inspection in any way shape or form was required!

I couldn't have asked for anything better. :D

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209778&d=1738180071

[mkassab]

I'm getting the interior buttoned up with the Console I made installed (along with all the internal electronics) and seat belts installed. I still have the outside side carpet to install along with the metal door opening "scuff" strips. The two sets of wires coming out of each side of the console are for the seats lumbar pump and the electric seat heaters (requirement of the wife). You'll note the control buttons for the lumbar, seat heaters, door pwr windows, etc are all mounted in the console. Below the radio is the HVAC auto control.

Thx Mark

Here's a few pics of the interior:

Drivers side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209885&d=1738416017

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209884&d=1738415984

Passenger side:.... note the subwoofer amp attached to the rear panel. It will also attach to the cab once installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209886&d=1738416054

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209887&d=1738416081

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209888&d=1738416110

[mkassab]

I'm sure many of you know and/or use this Motive Products device. For those that don't, you just select the cap that fits your brake fluid container(s), fill the Motive jug with brake fluid, pump to put positive air pressure in the jug to ~5-10psi. Then just open the bleed valve on each brake caliper or clutch throw-out bearing bleed hose. Keep open until all air bubbles are gone and you'll have perfect, 1-man, blead brakes.

Once you use this, you'll never go back to the "old" way to bleed brakes.

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210123&d=1738680058

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210122&d=1738680029

[mkassab]

After several engine heat cycles, I decided to re-torque the Stage 8 Header Bolts and install the lock tabs to prevent them coming loose.

The next three pics below show the locking tabs and lock clips followed by the bolt head without the lock tab/clip

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210124&d=1738680088

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210125&d=1738680110

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210126&d=1738680127

The last two pics show the lock tabs and clips installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210127&d=1738680146

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210128&d=1738680162

Weather is starting to warm up which will allow me to start body work outside.

Stay tuned, Mark

[Lew]

Thanks Lewis. It your truck painted and complete yet?

Mark

Nope. Waiting on weather.

[mkassab]

I'm using Dakota Digital gauges/Tach with my Ford Performance crate engine and ECU. I tried to pickup the tach signal from one of the coil pack neg (-) wires and the tach was very sporadic (i.e., sometime showing the correct RPM and other times jumping around and/or freezing).

After reading many threads, I determined I needed a tach signal adapter to pickup a tach signal from the Coyote's ECU/PCU. There are several adapters on the market, but I chose the AutoMeter unit as it seemed to be the most popular.

The AutoMeter unit has 4 wires, i.e, RED = +12v in from the ECU/PCU, Red/Green stripe = +12v out to the coil control packs, Black = ground and Gray = Tach Signal output. Here's a pic of the AutoMeter Tach adapter

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210461&d=1739539072

To start, you have to fine the purple wire off the ECU/PCU that feeds all 8 Coil Packs. This main Purple wire is fed from the fuse shown in the picture below. This fuse bank is part of the ECU/PCU kit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210460&d=1739538347

After I striped back the wire harness protective tape and seeing the purple wire I cut it to splice in the Red and Red/Green wire from the Tach Adapter. To ensure I cut the correct wire, I put a multi meter to make sure I had +12v from the purple wire, then pulled the fuse to ensure the power was off. After determining I had the correct wire, I installed a Female connector the the ECU/PCU side and a Male connector on the Coil side of the purple wire.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210462&d=1739539096

Per the instructions, the red wired from the tack adapter (male connector installed) plugs to the Purple wire from the ECU/PCU side. The red/green wire from the tach adapter (female connector installed) plugs to the purple wire feeding the Coil Packs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210463&d=1739539112

After testing to ensure all worked (including the Dakota Digital tach) I cleaned up the wire runs and wire loomed/taped as appropriate.

I'm now ready to download my Lund tune I received the other day. I'll document that after completion.

Mark

[Dgc333]

FWIW, I used the - side of the number 8 cylinder coil for the tach signal on the hemi in my 33. Since the Autometer tach that came with the kit only had settings for 2, 4 or 8 cylinders I needed something to convert s 1 cylinder signal to an 8 cylinder signal. I used a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface. I programed it for a 1 cylinder input and an 8 cylinder output, works like a charm.

[mkassab]

FWIW, I used the - side of the number 8 cylinder coil for the tach signal on the hemi in my 33. Since the Autometer tach that came with the kit only had settings for 2, 4 or 8 cylinders I needed something to convert s 1 cylinder signal to an 8 cylinder signal. I used a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface. I programed it for a 1 cylinder input and an 8 cylinder output, works like a charm.

Yes, that's a solution. JUST an FYI for all, Dakota Digital gives cylinder options for 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 16 Cylinder (there may be other options I can't recall e.g., 3, and 12 cylinders). I believe the 16 is if you get a .5 (1/2) pulse. I think 16 is also for dual sparkplug per cylinder engines

Mark

[Dgc333]

Yes, that's a solution. JUST an FYI for all, Dakota Digital gives cylinder options for 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 16 Cylinder (there may be other options I can't recall e.g., 3, and 12 cylinders). I believe the 16 is if you get a .5 (1/2) pulse. I think 16 is also for dual sparkplug per cylinder engines

Mark
The Gen 3 hemi has dual plugs per cylinder. The early engines (pre 2009) had the coils firing on both the power stroke and exhaust stroke. One end of the coil secondary was directly connected to the first plug for the cylinder firing. The other end of the coil secondary was connected to the second plug of the complementary cylinder. The complementary cylinders coil fires its first plug in the exhaust stroke and the other end is connected to the firing cylinders second plug. This is when you need the 16 setting.

The 2009 up hemis one coil fires both plugs at the same time in the power stroke. You used the 8 setting on these engines

[mkassab]

I need help on what causes the OBD II eng light to come on (See pic below). This OBD II and light are from the Ford Performance ECU/PCU package I bought with the Gen 3 Coyote. I'm NOT referring to a engine code occurring that would illuminate the bulb......, but is it a +12v signal to the engine light or a (-) Negative trigger which would mean the bulb has +12v as a constant and needs a ground to cause it to illuminate/turn-on when a code happens.

I know I can put a multimeter on the + and - wires to the bulb to help determine that, but trying this route first.

The reason I'm asking is my Dakota Digital instrument cluster has an engine light warning built into it and needs a (-) negative ground input to cause it to illuminate.

Thx Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210592&d=1739976378

[mkassab]

Paul (aka EdwardB) just answered my question re: what triggers the eng light. I posted the same question under the Coyote page. Result was... it's a negative trigger. Here's his full answer and how I'll try to resolve the PCM ground/negative leakage issue.... link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?50814-OBD-II-engine-light-trigger

Mark

[mkassab]

I'm winding down on inside work. Today, I decided to tint my door and the cab's back glass. This is a very easy process, especially with the glass on the bench vs installed. If you decide to do yourself, watch a few YouTube videos. Just need a squeezy, distilled water with a few drops of baby shampoo, rubbing alcohol in some spray bottles and a few razor blades for trimming. If you don't want to tackle this project yourself, take the glass (pre-install) to a tinting place and have them do it. It should be a lot cheaper with the glass out vs installed.

Here's the process I used.

1. Cleaned glass with microfiber towel. Last step to clean with rubbing alcohol.
2. Spray glass with soap solution. Then peel clear backing off the tint and spray the glue side with soap solution. NOTE: you can't apply too much.... so make it wet! Pic below

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210857&d=1740500668

3. Then, starting in the middle, working out to the edges, squeezy the soap solution out from under the tint. Start easy until tint doesn't slide, then pressing harder to get as much water out. I also spray soap solution on the tint exterior to lubricate the squeezy on the tint. See pics below

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210858&d=1740500756

4. once squeezed, I rough trim the tint and let the tint set a few minute. This pic of rough trim.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210859&d=1740500808

5, for the final trim, I used the other door window as a guide. I offset the glass about 1/16" and time the tint leaving the 1/16th" glass that will be under the rubber. Here's 2 pics showing the final process.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210861&d=1740500868

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210863&d=1740502982

Set glass tint side up and let dry at room temp for a few days.

NOTE: for the back glass I did the same process except I trimmed the tint on the solid black window just past where the poke-a-dot pattern ends.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210864&d=1740503002

Good luck,
Mark

[mkassab]

While doing body work on the bed sides, I noticed the stainless steel cladding is delaminating from the fiberglass.

Question, what's the best product to reglue the stainless steel to the fiberglass? Examples, 3M Panel bond 08115, 08116, 58115 ; 3M 5200 ; 3M DP460 ; Sikaflex 291 : Marine High Strength Premium Vinyl Ester filler, etc???

Any input most welcome. Pro / Cons for each also most welcome.

Thx Mark

[Guardm16]

I used JB Weld Plastic Bonder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5VJZ5XW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

and mixing nozzles
https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Adhesive-Mixing-Nozzle-Applicatior/dp/B07T72C2TB/ref=sr_1_3_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.SXCj4JyeL6xaLLy6V22 svD10IaSjUOGG4aBD_1yptYGTjqIqKhL9LqH-O0FSFFrBkDy8dU9tjOpq3iPeG50jhazS5EiLyLu6auONXwnaS3 Ydn2j_BW6lhmU0pu5UXqgxdRiyKxcOVS8pTLoyNXz7m2eQW3Uk vknH7yaTXXaf8hdPcEFdPHZI5o4mxuWULmJMFWO0COqyaEKpLo bVCK6CkwkS72SOSk4RXTgIxJ-aqQo.MLv14lkOM66CHtJPMvQpNyPrjSkeI3oWhVQ8PVunr20&dib_tag=se&keywords=epoxy+mixing+syringe&qid=1752435915&sr=8-3

I also added a little insurance with the placement of Anchor ties down loops bolted through the Stainless and fiberglass panels.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Ceiling-Plastic-Expansion-Planters/dp/B0DDTSK5MZ/ref=sr_1_23?crid=35IDM3Y3RVCSJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.WTrPzNUJlslhOaJvwzJccWaEZQW2i6tEQ Ww-ICkOlK4L7FHqgu9DbpiRLgfiJxLm24IkEcJ4sRoYeZOPgbyTpm D-NJ9NaoZVaT0B0oyzeNomKnmCUoNkBqHdEJ4QjsANm_Mm2VrheA akp2MvdJa8K4I3dtNy4Ne-psd6XrHDVvSU6rj1_vYQcAeC2tvWfhcl5xpohMc3RZPlgzyPfV 0ZHjQk32PYXoE42bB19Fbc-wcfzUlYUL877xm9N8OaUHO7IInsrkHfjIxQJUsAX2Og7gC2fAH no7jExxwHIYWNyek.MbL2DA33VgSKpgPqQXPnPMicLtywATszi upsipbLEBE&dib_tag=se&keywords=anchor+loops&qid=1752435998&sprefix=anchor+loope%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-23

These look like they are to strap down cargo, but really just bolt the panels together.

[mkassab]

Thanks Steve, but I want a purpose built epoxy vs the Plastic Bonder.... i.e.., fiberglass and SS are very different. I Only want to do this one time.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

I ended up buying 3M's Panel Bonding epoxy part # 08116

[Guardm16]

Have you thought about filling the small square opening at each end of the bed sides? I have seen several people do it. I decided not to, but that's just me. LOL

[mkassab]

Yes, I'm filling the bed ends.

Mark

[mkassab]

I still had loose gaps between the bed rails' SS cladding and the fiberglass... So I added five 10-32 SS button head screws to each side. I first drilled a #21 drill bit size and tapped with a 10-32 tap. I laid out the 5 screws at 1" from each end, then at 15", 30" and 45" from each end. This really held the SS cladding securely to the fiberglass rail. I'll remove the screws for painting and then reinstall during final assembly. Prior to drilling, I c-clamped first.

Pic below

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217680&d=1755433371

[mkassab]

I've spent the last couple weeks sanding the fiberglass and SS with 80 grit sandpaper. I used a orbital sander where I could and hand sanded the rest. Knowing I'd skim coat body filler on all the panels, I wasn't worried about laser level yet, i.e., I'll do all that after the epoxy dries for a week or two. My plan is to use the epoxy as my base sealer, then body filler, followed by high build 2k primer, then sealer, base color and clear.

For the Epoxy, I simply sprayed all outside. Wasn't worried about bugs, dust or runs as that will all be fixed during body work. As you can see in the pics below, I have a cloudy day and temps in the low 80s with low humidity. I do have a small blowup paint booth I'll use for all the remaining paint. It has 3 electric fans, 1 to blow it up and hold it's shape, 2 to blow in fresh filtered air and 3 to exhaust fumes from the booth.

This is the first time I've done both body and paint, but based on the epoxy spray, I think I'll do just fine. My goal is to finish this fall before we get too cold of weather. I can do all the wet sanding and polish buffing in the garage post the clear.

Stay tuned,
Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217917&d=1756035637

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217918&d=1756035684

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217919&d=1756035727

[mkassab]

I'm still working all the panels for final paint..... but I had to see and practice on something as I'm never done body and paint before. We're leaving on a 2 week vacation Friday, but I wanted to get something completed. So, I focused on something small.... i.e., the dash.

The first pic below shows body work finished and wet sanded in 600 grit the white sealer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218686&d=1757620648

The next pic shows two coats of the mint green base... No runs I might add. That's a big deal for me as I had many runs in the epoxy and 2k urethane primer.

This pic outside in the shade. I'll add this pic was taken immediately after base, but flowed out some before I sprayed the clear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218687&d=1757620731

The last three pics are after 3 heavy wet coats of clear. The first outside in the shade and the last two inside the garage under bright LED 6000k (daylight) strip lights.
Outside:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218688&d=1757620785

Inside:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218689&d=1757620826

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218690&d=1757620854

Again, no runs and minor orange peel. Also a few dust specks. After drying 2 weeks while on vacation, I'll wet sand and buff/polish. I'll show the results in a few weeks.
I'm very happy with the results and I now have more confidence to the major painting to come later this fall.

The color match is perfect from my sample pics I had.... if interested, go back to page one, post #6 of this build thread... here's a quick link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44055-Mark-s-35-Truck-Build-Extended-w-Gen-3-Coyote&p=504314&viewfull=1#post504314

Stay tuned,
Mark

[mkassab]

With the weather getting cold and preventing me to complete body and paint (I'll finish that in the spring), I went ahead and wet sanded and polished the dash. As you'll see below, I also built as much as I could.

Final polish:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221446&d=1763039139

The next two pics show the back of the dash with the wiring and AC / Defrost hoses connected. You might recall I upgraded my HVAC and therefore I have two Defrost hosed and 3 front facing AC vents. Tip: I precut and fitted my hoses when I had the cab on and dash in place. I also zipped tied each hose to the vent housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221447&d=1763039178

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221448&d=1763039200

The next pic of the dash top shows the auto headlight sensor, security flashing LED and the defrost vent trim.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221449&d=1763039231

And finally the front of the dash. The 5 LED lights are the left/right turn signal indicators, High Beam, Check Engine and EBrake/park brake. The center instrument cluster also has all these indicators. Lastly, on the lower left of the dash, I added a toggle switch for the headlights high/low beam.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221450&d=1763039263

In addition to the USB port on the drivers side, I also added one for the passengers side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221453&d=1763039339

Center cluster closeup:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221452&d=1763039309

Stay tune for the spring revel. I'll also continue to do bodywork during the winter when I can get outside to prevent dust in the shop.

Mark

[Blitzboy54]

Dash looks amazing. I love the color.

[mkassab]

Blitz.... Thanks

Mark