Russ Thompson Turn Signal and IDIDIT Relay wiring schematic

[Ted G]

This is a must have if you are using the Russ Thompson Turn signal! The IDIDIT relay simplifies the multiple relays and diodes that RT's schematic has. I use the button for my high/low beam and flash to pass when lights are off. Huge thanks goes out to Travis (FMAN) for the heads up on this relay and answering my text when I was still confused. I think he has EdwardB to thank for his build. Here is a link to his build where EdwardB helped him. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35778-Fmans-Dart-427-build-9818-Moroso-Catch-Can-PF4-EFI-update&p=427770&viewfull=1#post427770

The great thing about using this IDIDIT, is it's so simple once you know what wire goes where. I decided to make a schematic for my build book as I know I will forget how I did this down the line and someone asks me. So, here is the schematic and a few pictures of the relay, RT turn signal, and the paperwork that came with the relay:

172560

172556

172557

172558

Here is the description of the IDIDIT relay and part number. When you find it on ebay or some other site, it may look different than mine but I just think mine is a newer version from IDIDIT.

Part Number: 3100006040

Product Details:
Ididit high beam/low beam switching relays wire directly into your high beam switch, and headlight switch. They feature a resettable fuse so no additional fuse is needed. Once installed, you can press the high/low button when the headlights are off and momentarily turn on the high beams. With the headlight on, the high/low switch works like normal to toggle between high and low beams.

Specs:

Part Type:Relays
Product Line:Ididit High Beam/Low Beam Switching Relays
Amperage Rating:40 amps
Volts:12 V
Wiring Harness Included:Yes
Quantity:Sold individually

[Fman]

Excellent Ted, just added your wiring schematic to my build thread. This will really help people in the future with wiring the IDIDIT.:cool:

[RBachman]

I used one of these also when I built mine. It works great and no problems.

[toadster]

hey Ted - curious on your 30A fuse to the red wire, that's 12V hot all the time or switched?

[Ted G]

hey Ted - curious on your 30A fuse to the red wire, that's 12V hot all the time or switched?

Hey Todd, that is a constant hot from the battery. I probably did not need the fuse, but added it just in case.

[toadster]

Hey Todd, that is a constant hot from the battery. I probably did not need the fuse, but added it just in case.
ok that's what I figured, aligning stuff in my add/on fuse panel :)

[Ted G]

I have my battery cut of switch just below my dash and under the firewall on the driver side footbox. I actually directly connected the IDIDIT to the "off" side of the switch. The page I posted here states no fuse needed, but online it said don't exceed 30 amps.... go figure.

[Chainsaw]

Thanks for to the excellent info above. It was very useful today.

To the group: For those of us not using a cutoff switch, what would be a good candidate for the power input to the IDIDIT unit?

[Lidodrip]

I wired mine to a positive bus bar I have behind the dash. I do not have a battery cut off switch. The module has an internal circuit breaker so no additional fuse is needed.

James

[Rian_Colorado]

Just wanted to add my Kudos to Ted and others - this information made the whole thing SO much easier. Took about an hour to wire up - worked the first time!

[mmklaxer]

This is great, thanks as well! QUestion on the hazard wiring - how does this tie to that? I believe the pink hazard wire goes to the middle two connections on the on-off-on switch, but what connects to the "on" side?

[edwardb]

This is great, thanks as well! QUestion on the hazard wiring - how does this tie to that? I believe the pink hazard wire goes to the middle two connections on the on-off-on switch, but what connects to the "on" side?

The above schematics and comments don't specifically address the hazard wiring. Neither the RT turn signal assembly or the IDIDIT module affect how the hazards are wired.

Reference the wiring schematic in the Chassis Wiring Guide Installation Instructions: The RT turn signal assembly exactly replaces the illustrated turn signal switch. For the hazards, you need to use the kit supplied double pole hazard switch and wire exactly as shown in the schematic. Some choose to use a different switch, and that's OK as long as it's a double pole as shown. The left and right turn signal wires (dark green and light blue) have to be kept separate when the switch is off. Otherwise the hazard circuit will backfeed into the turn signal circuit.

[JJK]

I good the ididit switching relay module and am in the process of wiring it. two quick questions.
1. The dash headlight harness had three wires, but there is no light blue dim wire as indicated in the diagram at the beginning of this post. the third wire is a black ground. there is a light blue dim wire going to the headlight switch. is that what gets routed to the yellow wire in the ididit relay. want make sure since that light blue wire will be pulled from a different location than the other two.
2. do most folks solder these connections or use connectors if they need to remove in the future.

[Ted G]

I think you are confusing the front harness with the dash harness.

Front harness connection has what you are saying; brown, red and black.

The Dash harness connection has the the smallest connection on your dash harness of three connectors and should be the following:
- LT BLU HDLT SW > DIM SW
- BRN - HIGH BEAM
- RED - LOW BEAM

That is the blue wire that goes to the yellow on the IDIDIT

I did not solder, but used a good weather pack connector

[JJK]

Ted_G, thank you. Now that I look at the other harness it really is rather obvious. Not sure how I missed it before.

[JJK]

another question, looks like the ididit switch replaces the hi/lo spdt switch and the associated high beam indicator light. is it possible to tap into the high beam wire somewhere else to retain the dash indicator?

[mgk172]

The IDIDIT relay does not affect the indicator wire for the high beams. Can still go through the Speedhut gauge or use a dash light, same as if you did not use the relay setup.

[i.e.427]

Seems as though we stirred the pot with our video. I talked to Russ last week and now his TS switch can be ordered with a latching switch on the end of the stalk. This means the high/low beam can be done with a single $7 Tyco relay.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbsA803zt2I&t=1s

[maclonchas]

Here is a slightly more complicated way I approached the wiring problem. This wiring 181665[ATTACH=CONFIG]181666[/ATTACH was used when I rewired my Triumph TR6. If you need part numbers let me know. I got them off eBay with a relay holder.

Thanks

Bill

[JJK]

OK, I think I finally understand. If I am correct, I need to tap into the wires right before they would have connected to the switches, at the spade connectors. I was thinking to cut the wires at the connector, but that would have not included the piggyback to the indicator. As edwardb said, the wires to the ididit module replace the switch. Correct?

[edwardb]

OK, I think I finally understand. If I am correct, I need to tap into the wires right before they would have connected to the switches, at the spade connectors. I was thinking to cut the wires at the connector, but that would have not included the piggyback to the indicator. As edwardb said, the wires to the ididit module replace the switch. Correct?

Yes, it replaces the kit supplied toggle switch for low/high beam switching. With the added feature of the flash-to-pass function.