Nick's LS427 Type 65 Build in Europe

[nick729]

After many delays, seems like my kit will finally reach me in about 2 months’ time. Reserving the spot for my build diary.

I have previously built 2 Lotus7 based kit cars but got rid of them after driving them both for less than 1,500 miles, very fast and fun cars, but something just did not sit right with me. Hopefully, this will not be the case with this kit ��
I do not intend to properly track the car (maybe an occasional track day or 2), nor do I want the car to be very civilized - this is just an obnoxious summer weekend car.

My expectations for this build is to have everything I need to complete the car and I intend to have it completed for the summer. If anyone notices something which is not in the list below, but is needed to complete the build - please let me know (getting parts to this part of the world is not easy and I don't have patience)!

Specs:
60744 - Powder coated chassis - Black
60510 - Coupe GPS Metric Gauges (kmh)
16787 - LS Mounts
16813 - Headers: LS-series stainless steel 4-port full length with ball flange collector
34158 - Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
16038 - 31 Spline 2015 IRS 8.375" Driveshaft
12070 - Body with cut-outs of side pipes, body mounts, lighting accessories, gas cap, and side openings
13852 - Upgrade: Competition High-Back Aluminum Race Seats with black fabric covers
16799 - Power steering kit
12066 - Standard Width Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
60737 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
60377 - A/C – Heater- Defroster for 302/351W
60364- Coupe Interior Black Carpet Package, pre-cut
15760 - 14” Leather Steering Wheel Upgrade
60371 - Coupe Side Windows
60831 - Gen 3 Coupe Floormat
60835 - Coupe Sound Insulation Kit
12453 - Battery Cutoff Switch
16116 - Front Swaybar
15998 - 2015 IRS Rear Swaybar
15812 - Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 18” X 9” Front and 18” X 11” Rear
15996 - Upgrade: Double Adjustable KONI Front and Rear IRS Shocks (set of 4)
16668 - 2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
15370 - 12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
60850 - 12.88” 201215 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
33015 - Hotrod/Truck LED Headlights
80856 - Race Side View Mirrors
BLUEPRINT ENGINES BUILDER SERIES 427CI PROSERIES STROKER CRATE ENGINE AND T56 MANUAL TRANSMISSION | GM LS3 STYLE | DRESSED LONGBLOCK WITH FUEL INJECTION | ALUMINUM HEADS | ROLLER CAM | DELUXE DRESSED LONGBLOCK W/ PULLEYS POLISHED - BLACK 625 HP / 565 FT LBS

Other parts:
Russ Thompson Turn-signal system
Holley 12-132 455lph in-tank fuel pump
Nuke Performance/Fuelab Fuel pressure regulator
Nuke Performance/Fuelab in-line Fuel filter
RedHorse PTFE AN6 SS lines and fittings (no hard lines)
Oil Catch can (TBD)
Back-up camera (Autovox v5 Pro, Wolfbox G900 or similar)
Wheel spacers (TBD)
Tyres - 275/35 and 315/30, (r888r, Pilot Sport Cup 2 or similar depending on availability)

Plans for the build:
Leather interior
Custom switches and A/C controls
Additional sound insulation
Powder coated panels
Depending on choice of body colour (considering Candy Apple Red, Verde Mantis Green, Arancio Bruciato Orange), might need to paint wheels and exhausts.

Any suggestions and tips are very welcome!

[jgray]

After many delays, seems like my kit will finally reach me in about 2 months’ time. Reserving the spot for my build diary.

I have previously built 2 Lotus7 based kit cars but got rid of them after driving them both for less than 1,500 miles, very fast and fun cars, but something just did not sit right with me. Hopefully, this will not be the case with this kit ��
I do not intend to properly track the car (maybe an occasional track day or 2), nor do I want the car to be very civilized - this is just an obnoxious summer weekend car.

My expectations for this build is to have everything I need to complete the car and I intend to have it completed for the summer. If anyone notices something which is not in the list below, but is needed to complete the build - please let me know (getting parts to this part of the world is not easy and I don't have patience)!

Specs:
60744 - Powder coated chassis - Black
60510 - Coupe GPS Metric Gauges (kmh)
16787 - LS Mounts
16813 - Headers: LS-series stainless steel 4-port full length with ball flange collector
34158 - Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
16038 - 31 Spline 2015 IRS 8.375" Driveshaft
12070 - Body with cut-outs of side pipes, body mounts, lighting accessories, gas cap, and side openings
13852 - Upgrade: Competition High-Back Aluminum Race Seats with black fabric covers
16799 - Power steering kit
12066 - Standard Width Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
60737 - 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit with KONI coil-overs, tubular control arms, and CV axles
60377 - A/C – Heater- Defroster for 302/351W
60364- Coupe Interior Black Carpet Package, pre-cut
15760 - 14” Leather Steering Wheel Upgrade
60371 - Coupe Side Windows
60831 - Gen 3 Coupe Floormat
60835 - Coupe Sound Insulation Kit
12453 - Battery Cutoff Switch
16116 - Front Swaybar
15998 - 2015 IRS Rear Swaybar
15812 - Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 18” X 9” Front and 18” X 11” Rear
15996 - Upgrade: Double Adjustable KONI Front and Rear IRS Shocks (set of 4)
16668 - 2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
15370 - 12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
60850 - 12.88” 201215 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled & Slotted
33015 - Hotrod/Truck LED Headlights
80856 - Race Side View Mirrors
BLUEPRINT ENGINES BUILDER SERIES 427CI PROSERIES STROKER CRATE ENGINE AND T56 MANUAL TRANSMISSION | GM LS3 STYLE | DRESSED LONGBLOCK WITH FUEL INJECTION | ALUMINUM HEADS | ROLLER CAM | DELUXE DRESSED LONGBLOCK W/ PULLEYS POLISHED - BLACK 625 HP / 565 FT LBS

Other parts:
Russ Thompson Turn-signal system
Holley 12-132 455lph in-tank fuel pump
Nuke Performance/Fuelab Fuel pressure regulator
Nuke Performance/Fuelab in-line Fuel filter
RedHorse PTFE AN6 SS lines and fittings (no hard lines)
Oil Catch can (TBD)
Back-up camera (Autovox v5 Pro, Wolfbox G900 or similar)
Wheel spacers (TBD)
Tyres - 275/35 and 315/30, (r888r, Pilot Sport Cup 2 or similar depending on availability)

Plans for the build:
Leather interior
Custom switches and A/C controls
Additional sound insulation
Powder coated panels
Depending on choice of body colour (considering Candy Apple Red, Verde Mantis Green, Arancio Bruciato Orange), might need to paint wheels and exhausts.

Any suggestions and tips are very welcome!

Hi,
I grew up in England and very much wanted a Lotus/Caterham 7. For several years I was looking at the Dutton Phaeton which was a popular kit in the 1980s. But then I came to California and three decades plus passed and I have finally pulled the trigger on a Daytona. Mine will arrive in February/March so I will following your build with interest! I plan to use a hot 302 - it looks like a quad twin weber carb could be the setup I go with. I rode in one a couple of weeks ago that had a 302 and it was lots of power. Yours will be a beast!

[nick729]

Boy was i wrong on the ETA on my coupe... After many set backs, and exceptionally frustrating customer service experience in dealing with FFR my coupe is nearing the European shores. I expect to take delivery of my coupe sometime in late January, depending on how long the customs procedures will take (it's a lottery). Anyways, not worth going into details on what went wrong i am just happy it is finally over.

Went ahead and bought some of the missing bits for my kit:

Fuel Pressure regulator - Fuelab 535 + pressure gauge
Fuel filter - Fuelab 10Micron 127mm
Autovox v5 pro back-up camera
Tyres - i was looking for semi-slicks and the only ones i managed to find in the required size (275/35 and 315/30) were Nankang Sportnex AR-1. Cup2's or R888r at least in EU do not have both sizes available and i did not want to have different tyres front and back.

Things i still need to source:
Oil catch can - i want to see the engine first, to decide which one to pick and what fittings will be needed on the engine side
Fuel Lines and fittings - AN6 PTFE lines and fittings, but need to see the car in person, to decide where and how everything will mount and what angle fitting i will need.
Wheel spacers
Fuel pump relay kit - since the FFR supplied relay/fuse for the fuel pump is only setup for 15amps, i will have to buy a relay kit for the pump since is requires 30amps. I am thinking that Holley 12-753 relay kit makes the most sense in this case.

[GoDadGo]

A Monster It Will Be!

.........Soon Another Dark Side Factory-5 Will Be Born!

[nick729]

Just received an unexpected Christmas present :)

177093177094177095177096177097

Props to FFR for packaging, the crate itself is held together by long nails, which makes it difficult to disassemble (the fact that the OSB was wet and soft didn't help). My last kit car, came with a similar crate but it was from plywood, and wood screws were used instead of nails, which is a lot more convenient and very fast and easy to take apart. I guess there is always room for improvement :) Also, the crate is very long and heavy, but the only way to lift the crate with a forklift is from the ends of the crate, meaning that you need a forklift with extra long forks. Open slots from the side of the crate for the forks would really help.

Anyways, since it was impossible to offload the crates into the garage, getting everything inside was a mission and a half. Took about 2 hours to remove all the boxes and carry the frame into the garage, but the 2 of us managed it. Getting the body off the car was quite difficult though, i would recommend having at least 3 people for that, the sides were a tight squeeze, so not looking forward to putting it back on.

Missing parts:

Double adjustable Koni shocks :mad:
Rear Hatch Glass
LS headers with fasteners
Some other less important parts

Overall, very pleased to finally have the kit in my garage, looking forward to start working on it in a few weeks time.

[lewma]

Congrats Nick!

[nick729]

Almost done with inventory check, only a few boxes left!

Decided to start the assembly process, however i ran into a problem straight away. I have the optional power steering rack from FFR, this is what i received:
177172

Seems like 2 sleeves are missing, as in the manual there are 2 metal sleeves visible in the photos which are used inside the 4 supplied bushings. Also, there is a bushing with a sleeve already in the rack itself, but the sleeve is very large compared to the bolts supplied. There is no mention of any sleeves in the Steering Rack Assembly packing list either.. Any thoughts?

[Namrups]

I would suggest completing your inventory before attempting to start your installation.

I looked back on my inventory sheets and found a listing for two 2.45" spacers (part # 15514) under a heading of "Steering System Hardware". (In my case box 1) The power steering rack was listed under a heading of "Power Steering Components". (In my case box 23)

Find part number 15514 and see if they are what you need. Hope this helps.

[nick729]

I would suggest completing your inventory before attempting to start your installation.

I looked back on my inventory sheets and found a listing for two 2.45" spacers (part # 15514) under a heading of "Steering System Hardware". (In my case box 1) The power steering rack was listed under a heading of "Power Steering Components". (In my case box 23)

Find part number 15514 and see if they are what you need. Hope this helps.

You are a lifesaver! I'm not sure how i managed to miss that, since I went over the packing list a few times.. Thank you!

Steering rack is now in place.
Lower and upper control arms are also in place. Some of the issues i ran into:

Lower control arm - had to install the rear bolt first, since it was impossible to align the bolts as per manual instructions. I am missing the nuts, so i can't tighten them.. Also, there are 4 large washers provided, 2 of which are used as a spacer for the rear bush. Where do the other 2 go? On the rear nut?
Upper control arm ball joint - one of the ball joints is damaged, the grease nipple hole has a large dent, damaging threads and thus making it impossible to screw the grease fitting into the ball joint. Will try to rethread the hole, if that fails i'll get a replacement ball joint.
Upper control arm bolts - anyone know what type of bolt are meant to be used for the upper control arm (attaching to the mounting flange)? There are no bolts in the Upper control arm box, and the manual does not say..?


I am just loosely fitting everything to see how it all comes together until the shocks and other missing bits arrive :(

177177177178177179

[Alan_C]

Congrats, just caught your build thread. Nice shop, plenty of room. Looking forward to seeing the build progress.

[Namrups]

Upper control arm bolts: 1/2"-20 x 1 3/4" flange head bolts - 4 required - part # 15138

I am building a FF coupe. I received my coupe before the inventory system change at FF. I am in the process of listing my inventory list (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44549-Inventory-parts-list) so that those with the new inventory system can possibly cross reference it.

I used aftermarket ball joints and have the two FF ones still on my shelf. Not sure how to get them to you in Europe though.

[nick729]

Upper control arm bolts: 1/2"-20 x 1 3/4" flange head bolts - 4 required - part # 15138

I am building a FF coupe. I received my coupe before the inventory system change at FF. I am in the process of listing my inventory list (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44549-Inventory-parts-list) so that those with the new inventory system can possibly cross reference it.

I used aftermarket ball joints and have the two FF ones still on my shelf. Not sure how to get them to you in Europe though.

Just checked, I do not have these bolts at all, neither do i have the locknuts and they are not listed in the Packing List anywhere...

I had a look at your inventory and Coupe complete kit IFS components (15344) in my case only includes the following items:
Upper Ball Joint
Front Upper control Arm
0.675" spacer
0.40" spacer

Nothing else... So possibly i have an incomplete IFS kit? i also don't have any mounting hardware for the shocks....

By the way, we ordered Type 65's at the same time and mine was ready in July, but due to Blueprint delays and the long shipping times i only just received mine, so my assumption is that I have the old inventory system packing list too :)
Your inventory list is very helpful, thank you for taking the time to write it down. Are you compiling it the way it is noted in your packing list? I will cross-reference it from now on, will help me find the parts that are not in the packing list at all!

Thank you for the kind offer on the ball joints, i will try to fix the current one. If i fail, i will let you know :)

P.s. Will have to try ant hunt down some sockets.. I can't remove the body panels, as the bolt heads are 1/4", so the metric sockets don't work.. 6mm is too small, 7 mm is too large.. Also, can't assemble Wilwood rotors, since the bolts for the rotor are also 1/4" and double hex, finding a socket for the Wilwoods is going to be a nightmare.

[Namrups]

Just checked, I do not have these bolts at all, neither do i have the locknuts and they are not listed in the Packing List anywhere...

I had a look at your inventory and Coupe complete kit IFS components (15344) in my case only includes the following items:
Upper Ball Joint
Front Upper control Arm
0.675" spacer
0.40" spacer

Nothing else... So possibly i have an incomplete IFS kit? i also don't have any mounting hardware for the shocks....

By the way, we ordered Type 65's at the same time and mine was ready in July, but due to Blueprint delays and the long shipping times i only just received mine, so my assumption is that I have the old inventory system packing list too :)
Your inventory list is very helpful, thank you for taking the time to write it down. Are you compiling it the way it is noted in your packing list? I will cross-reference it from now on, will help me find the parts that are not in the packing list at all!

Thank you for the kind offer on the ball joints, i will try to fix the current one. If i fail, i will let you know :)

P.s. Will have to try ant hunt down some sockets.. I can't remove the body panels, as the bolt heads are 1/4", so the metric sockets don't work.. 6mm is too small, 7 mm is too large.. Also, can't assemble Wilwood rotors, since the bolts for the rotor are also 1/4" and double hex, finding a socket for the Wilwoods is going to be a nightmare.

I am copying my list just the way I received it. I am not listing which list goes to what box as I'm sure that is different in every case. You are going to want to get a full set of SAE sockets and open end wrenches from 3/8" thru 1 1/4". You will also need a hub nut socket. Not sure what size that was because I borrowed it from my neighbor. Two of each of the wrenches is my recommendation. A crescent wrench or two are also helpful.

[burchfieldb]

Just checked, I do not have these bolts at all, neither do i have the locknuts and they are not listed in the Packing List anywhere...

I had a look at your inventory and Coupe complete kit IFS components (15344) in my case only includes the following items:
Upper Ball Joint
Front Upper control Arm
0.675" spacer
0.40" spacer

Nothing else... So possibly i have an incomplete IFS kit? i also don't have any mounting hardware for the shocks....

By the way, we ordered Type 65's at the same time and mine was ready in July, but due to Blueprint delays and the long shipping times i only just received mine, so my assumption is that I have the old inventory system packing list too :)
Your inventory list is very helpful, thank you for taking the time to write it down. Are you compiling it the way it is noted in your packing list? I will cross-reference it from now on, will help me find the parts that are not in the packing list at all!

Thank you for the kind offer on the ball joints, i will try to fix the current one. If i fail, i will let you know :)

P.s. Will have to try ant hunt down some sockets.. I can't remove the body panels, as the bolt heads are 1/4", so the metric sockets don't work.. 6mm is too small, 7 mm is too large.. Also, can't assemble Wilwood rotors, since the bolts for the rotor are also 1/4" and double hex, finding a socket for the Wilwoods is going to be a nightmare.

I am also missing hardware from the hardware kit that is not in the inventory list. This is the list from FFR of what should be in your hardware pack. This is not the rear IRS kit, that is a seperate kit, that I also do not have.

177183
177182

[burchfieldb]

This is what you should have in the IRS fastener kit for the rear.

177184

[Namrups]

What a nightmare. That new list doesn't show any 1/2"-20 bolts. I guess they could have changed to 1/2"-23 but the 1 3/4" length isn't even shown. Scratching my head. :confused:

[burchfieldb]

What a nightmare. That new list doesn't show any 1/2"-20 bolts. I guess they could have changed to 1/2"-23 but the 1 3/4" length isn't even shown. Scratching my head. :confused:

After looking at your list, the new list doesn't show the fasteners and also doesn't show what sub assembly they go to. Which is really confusing, since the manual doesn't always call out the fasteners, and only shows a picture. The list I provided above does have part numbers, but the hardware kit I got does not have any corresponding part numbers on the bags. My kit was missing all 1/2 inch fasteners, but it was supposed to have them. I recieved my coupe at the end of September, so after the new system was put in place. Hopefully things improve, as I am missing a fair amount of parts. I check in with them regularly and also have them send me updates of what they have on my missing parts list, which did not match mine. I can only imagine the nightmare they are having to deal with, having worked in manufacturing myself for a number of years. I know they are trying to work through it, as I regularly get reply emails after 7pm at night, which is the same time for them.

[burchfieldb]

Do you guys know what box your Le Mans gas gap was in? I didn't recall seeing it and didn't see it listed on the inventory sheets?

[Namrups]

Mine was in box 2B.

[nick729]

Finally completed my inventory check - what a nightmare! 18 parts missing, some of which are needed early on in the build; shocks, diff bushings, control arm bolts etc. :( I have a feeling there will be some issues with bolts/nuts, as it seems that some of them are not even on the inventory list, so i won't know what i am missing until i get to it, like in the case of the upper control arm bolts/nuts.

Anyways, had my first mess up... Was getting started on assembling Wilwood brakes and somehow managed to get mixed up on the torque values and tried to torque the small rotor bolt to 81nm (60ft-lb) instead of 17 in-lb. You can guess the outcome. ~100$ mistake :)
177241

Luckily, since you can access the bolt through the back, i just used a small drill bit from the back which bit onto the leftover bolt and it unscrewed itself..

Did some shopping; got SAE socket set, 12 point sockets for the rotor bolts, and a set of SAE open end wrenches, but failed to find any inch drill bits. After searching everywhere, just decided to buy the closest metric matches:

3/32 (2.38mm) - 2.5mm
1/8 (3.175mm) - 3.2mm
9/64 (3.571mm) - 3.8mm
3/16 (4.7625mm) - 4.8mm
7/32 (5.56mm) - 5.5mm
1/4 (6.35mm) - 6.5mm
5/16 (7.93mm) - 8mm
7/16 (11.11mm) - 11mm
1/2 (12.7mm) - 13mm
5/8 (15.875mm) - 16mm

Surely the slightly larger drill bits will be just fine? :confused:

Planning on doing the IRS tomorrow as far as i can get with the parts i have :)

@burchfieldb - mine was in BOX4 along with Secondary body fasteners, Battery/Tray components, Misc Electrical Parts.

[Namrups]

Use a #10 drill for the 1/8" rivets and a #30 drill for the 3/16" rivets. I ordered my bits from Aircraftspruce.com.

[burchfieldb]

Finally completed my inventory check - what a nightmare! 18 parts missing, some of which are needed early on in the build; shocks, diff bushings, control arm bolts etc. :( I have a feeling there will be some issues with bolts/nuts, as it seems that some of them are not even on the inventory list, so i won't know what i am missing until i get to it, like in the case of the upper control arm bolts/nuts.

Anyways, had my first mess up... Was getting started on assembling Wilwood brakes and somehow managed to get mixed up on the torque values and tried to torque the small rotor bolt to 81nm (60ft-lb) instead of 17 in-lb. You can guess the outcome. ~100$ mistake :)
177241

Luckily, since you can access the bolt through the back, i just used a small drill bit from the back which bit onto the leftover bolt and it unscrewed itself..

Did some shopping; got SAE socket set, 12 point sockets for the rotor bolts, and a set of SAE open end wrenches, but failed to find any inch drill bits. After searching everywhere, just decided to buy the closest metric matches:

3/32 (2.38mm) - 2.5mm
1/8 (3.175mm) - 3.2mm
9/64 (3.571mm) - 3.8mm
3/16 (4.7625mm) - 4.8mm
7/32 (5.56mm) - 5.5mm
1/4 (6.35mm) - 6.5mm
5/16 (7.93mm) - 8mm
7/16 (11.11mm) - 11mm
1/2 (12.7mm) - 13mm
5/8 (15.875mm) - 16mm

Surely the slightly larger drill bits will be just fine? :confused:

Planning on doing the IRS tomorrow as far as i can get with the parts i have :)

@burchfieldb - mine was in BOX4 along with Secondary body fasteners, Battery/Tray components, Misc Electrical Parts.

Yep, mine is missing and FFR said it did not print on the inventory list for some reason. They are going to add it to the list of missing parts. I also was missing the tee for the rear brake line, so I picked up one of those today. Like you, I am a little worried about what else is missing that is not on the list.

[nick729]

Use a #10 drill for the 1/8" rivets and a #30 drill for the 3/16" rivets. I ordered my bits from Aircraftspruce.com.

If i am not mistaken (which i might be) but i think you meant, #30 for 1/8" rivets and #10 for 3/16"?

1/8" Drill bit is 0.1248" or 3.1706mm (as per manual)
#30 Drill bit is 0.1285" or 3.2639mm (your recommendation)
I got 3.2mm (0.1260") drill bits, which are in the middle.

3/16" Drill bit is 0.1872" or 4.7555mm (as per manual)
#10 Drill bit is 0.1935" or 4.9149mm (your recommendation)
I got 4.8mm (0.1890") drill bits which is also in the middle between the two.

Differences between the FFR Manual, your recommendations and what i bought are very small. I am hoping that they are small enough not to have any impact. It is always much easier to buy local, since buying from the US takes around 2 weeks to reach me due to customs clearance...

[Namrups]

If i am not mistaken (which i might be) but i think you meant, #30 for 1/8" rivets and #10 for 3/16"?

1/8" Drill bit is 0.1248" or 3.1706mm (as per manual)
#30 Drill bit is 0.1285" or 3.2639mm (your recommendation)
I got 3.2mm (0.1260") drill bits, which are in the middle.

3/16" Drill bit is 0.1872" or 4.7555mm (as per manual)
#10 Drill bit is 0.1935" or 4.9149mm (your recommendation)
I got 4.8mm (0.1890") drill bits which is also in the middle between the two.

Differences between the FFR Manual, your recommendations and what i bought are very small. I am hoping that they are small enough not to have any impact. It is always much easier to buy local, since buying from the US takes around 2 weeks to reach me due to customs clearance...

Your right .... my bad.

[nick729]

Had a little tinker time after the new years, so had a crack at the IRS. I can't really put anything on, as i don't have the front bushings for the diff and no shocks either. Assembled the upper and lower control arms, as well as toe adjustment arms.. However, something is not right with the toe adjustment rod end. It is impossible to put the provided nuts on the rod end. It is the right size, but it just won't screw on. The linkage adjustment uses the same type of nut, and i can use the rod end nut on the linkage adjustment no problem, but the same nuts won't go on the rod end no matter what. Am i missing something obvious or what is the deal? 177524

Had a crack at safety wire. After a few tries, it is a fairly easy and simple process. 177525177526

Cut down the spindle ears as per manual, which was a lot harder than expected.. Initially tried it with sawzall, with different blades (wood, metal etc.) ended up just ruining them all, so got the angle grinder and problem was solved :)

[David Ferguson]

I think that linkage adjuster consists of a right-hand and left-hand threads. The nuts with the groove on them are probably left-hand thread. You may need right-hand jam nuts for the rod ends.

[nick729]

Due to helping hand from @Namrups in the form of inventory list, seems like the Rod End Right threaded Jam nuts are completely missing from my order and inventory list...

Tried to fit the tank today, failed that one too, as there are no bolts or nuts provided for the tank straps. They are also not in the packing list. Seems like a recurring theme with my build, as i am missing key bolts/nuts from pretty much every "Box" and the missing bolts/nuts are not even listed in the packing list. The communication via emails with FFR is not helping either, since they demand i tell them the part number of the missing parts??!! How am i supposed to know, what i am missing if the parts are not even listed in the inventory check list??

Also, can someone explain what is the point of cutting the tank filler neck in 2 different spots? I fail to understand why the 2 cuts?? 177823

[Namrups]

Due to helping hand from @Namrups in the form of inventory list, seems like the Rod End Right threaded Jam nuts are completely missing from my order and inventory list...

Tried to fit the tank today, failed that one too, as there are no bolts or nuts provided for the tank straps. They are also not in the packing list. Seems like a recurring theme with my build, as i am missing key bolts/nuts from pretty much every "Box" and the missing bolts/nuts are not even listed in the packing list. The communication via emails with FFR is not helping either, since they demand i tell them the part number of the missing parts??!! How am i supposed to know, what i am missing if the parts are not even listed in the inventory check list??

Also, can someone explain what is the point of cutting the tank filler neck in 2 different spots? I fail to understand why the 2 cuts?? 177823

I have not gotten there yet but I believe one of the other pieces is also used to connect to the fuel filler when you mount the body. Page 512 of the online manual shows it.

[bjblock]

Due to helping hand from @Namrups in the form of inventory list, seems like the Rod End Right threaded Jam nuts are completely missing from my order and inventory list...

Tried to fit the tank today, failed that one too, as there are no bolts or nuts provided for the tank straps. They are also not in the packing list. Seems like a recurring theme with my build, as i am missing key bolts/nuts from pretty much every "Box" and the missing bolts/nuts are not even listed in the packing list. The communication via emails with FFR is not helping either, since they demand i tell them the part number of the missing parts??!! How am i supposed to know, what i am missing if the parts are not even listed in the inventory check list??

Also, can someone explain what is the point of cutting the tank filler neck in 2 different spots? I fail to understand why the 2 cuts?? 177823

The fuel tank strap fasteners should be in the Coupe Fastener Pack. I had some pieces missing from the fastener pack as well and after a week of back and forth e-mails I was able to get this inventory for the fastener pack, which includes part numbers. The tank strap bolts are PN 60503 and the nuts are 60381.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16bMoF8jxVUecnuogU6EVs5vz2koOsoviQdvBPXtNJxA/edit?usp=sharing

Mine had everything except the 1/2"-20 bolts/nuts for the front upper control arms and the 10" L-bolt, which actually came with the E-brake hardware.

[Namrups]

I took another look at my inventory and BJBLOCK is correct on the part numbers of the strap fasteners.

[nick729]

The fuel tank strap fasteners should be in the Coupe Fastener Pack. I had some pieces missing from the fastener pack as well and after a week of back and forth e-mails I was able to get this inventory for the fastener pack, which includes part numbers. The tank strap bolts are PN 60503 and the nuts are 60381.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16bMoF8jxVUecnuogU6EVs5vz2koOsoviQdvBPXtNJxA/edit?usp=sharing

Mine had everything except the 1/2"-20 bolts/nuts for the front upper control arms and the 10" L-bolt, which actually came with the E-brake hardware.

Thanks for the info, i do have these.. If it wasn't for your info there is no actual way of knowing what bolts are meant to be used for the tanks straps...

Also, the bolts don't fit the tank strap loops (rear of the frame), should i just hammer them in? The bolts are slightly larger than the loops they are meant to go through :)

On the same note, are lug nuts for the wheels provided with the kit? I don't remember seeing them when taking inventory and i cannot find them now...

[bjblock]

Namrups thread with his inventory list has been very helpful for me to figure out which fasteners are needed for a given step.

I had to open up the loops on the tank straps to get the bolts to fit. I used a punch with a handle that was slightly larger than the bolts and hammered that through the loop to open them up just enough to get the bolts through. On the other end of the straps, I had to use a longer bolt for the left strap like many others have had to do as well.

I didn't get lug nuts with my kit, but I also didn't order wheels through FFR.

[burchfieldb]

Thanks for the info, i do have these.. If it wasn't for your info there is no actual way of knowing what bolts are meant to be used for the tanks straps...

Also, the bolts don't fit the tank strap loops (rear of the frame), should i just hammer them in? The bolts are slightly larger than the loops they are meant to go through :)

On the same note, are lug nuts for the wheels provided with the kit? I don't remember seeing them when taking inventory and i cannot find them now...

I used a larger punch, put the strap in a vice, and opened them up by bending the punch around. I accepted the fact that they were going to need to be repainted, as well as one side of my strap had no paint.

[Namrups]

My lug nuts were in one of the FF wheel boxes. 1/2"-20 open acorn lug nuts part #16221 20 required

[nick729]

My lug nuts were in one of the FF wheel boxes. 1/2"-20 open acorn lug nuts part #16221 20 required

Found them, they were in the box with wheel accessories (not on the pack list).

[nick729]

Received some of the fuel system parts:
FueLab Fuel pressure regulator -6AN 535
FueLab Fuel filter 10micron -6AN
some -6AN fuel fittings and adapters
177954

I am not using any hardlines for the fuel system and went with -06AN RedHorse Performance PTFE black hoses and black RHP fittings for it with Holley 12-132 455lph fuel pump. Still need to decide the best way to route the hoses and where to mount the regulator.

Finished assembling Wilwood rotors, I was dreading doing the safety wires on them, but surprisingly I can say I enjoyed it a lot :)

After consulting with Paul, I decided to order Howe Racing 22320S Upper Ball Joints, since one of the upper ball joints came damaged, might as well swap the out for something better along with Energy Suspension 5.13102G Ball Joint Dust Boots and Energy Suspension 9-13101G Tie Rod End Dust Boots, thank you Paul!

Got my dyno results for the Blueprints LS427. 177953

FFR is being extremely slow with their answers, sent in my Missing Parts list more than 2 weeks ago - still have not received a reviewed list or info on when to expect shocks, diff mounts or LS headers.. Looks like it will be a while until i can finish suspension...

Any suggestions on what I should assemble next while waiting for the suspension parts and hardware?
177955

[burchfieldb]

Received some of the fuel system parts:
FueLab Fuel pressure regulator -6AN 535
FueLab Fuel filter 10micron -6AN
some -6AN fuel fittings and adapters
177954

I am not using any hardlines for the fuel system and went with -06AN RedHorse Performance PTFE black hoses and black RHP fittings for it with Holley 12-132 455lph fuel pump. Still need to decide the best way to route the hoses and where to mount the regulator.

Finished assembling Wilwood rotors, I was dreading doing the safety wires on them, but surprisingly I can say I enjoyed it a lot :)

After consulting with Paul, I decided to order Howe Racing 22320S Upper Ball Joints, since one of the upper ball joints came damaged, might as well swap the out for something better along with Energy Suspension 5.13102G Ball Joint Dust Boots and Energy Suspension 9-13101G Tie Rod End Dust Boots, thank you Paul!

Got my dyno results for the Blueprints LS427. 177953

FFR is being extremely slow with their answers, sent in my Missing Parts list more than 2 weeks ago - still have not received a reviewed list or info on when to expect shocks, diff mounts or LS headers.. Looks like it will be a while until i can finish suspension...

Any suggestions on what I should assemble next while waiting for the suspension parts and hardware?
177955

I started temporarily putting on the sheet metal panes, drilling the holes, and holding them in place with Clecos. Installed my pedal box, installed the gas tank, fuel filter and lines, assembled the door frames and associated parts, installed the reservoirs, and ran my brake lines. You can use the photo's from Paul's build to estimate where the frame mounts go for the brake lines. I also installed my steering parts after doing the sheet metal panels. Going to finish up the brake lines and then possibly start laying out the electrical.

[nick729]

Looks like it's sheet metal pane time for me then. Question related to the sheet panes - my plan is to powder coat them all black/dark grey, should i just powder coat all of them, or are there any panes that should not be coated for some reason (or there is no point in coating them). I am using the carpets, and sound deadening/insulation from FFR.

[Nigel Allen]

With all the wet weather around you, it's likely worth doing all. Make sure you drill them first.

Cheers, Nige

[nick729]

With all the wet weather around you, it's likely worth doing all. Make sure you drill them first.

Cheers, Nige

I don't plan on driving it during less than perfect conditions, but seems to me that i should just go ahead and coat them all :)

Borrowed the idea of painting control arms and other suspension bits from @Namrups build. My initial plan was to use Duplicolor Metalcast Series Spray paint, that give a deep anodized color, however, after trying to source paint, my plans were quickly shattered. Duplicolor Metalcast series is not available in Europe and since it is classed as a hazardous item, no retailer will ship them to Europe (Summit, Amazon etc...). Will have to visit paint shop and see what options i have, but looks like i will have to get custom mixed spray cans for the suspension. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18LmU-TOYRc&t=71s&ab_channel=FordMercGuy

Idea is simple Red Metallic paint for the control arms (Coupe will most likely be some shade of Candy Apple Red) - 3x prime coat, 3x top coat and 2x lacquer. Should be more than adequate in terms of durability for the occasional drive in good weather. Still haven't decided if i will paint the rear cover of the diff, but if i do, i will most likely paint it black. As for hubs and spindles, I think I will be more conservative and go with black, to go with the black Wilwood rotors and also with the rear spacer which I have yet to buy. :)

Got an email from FFR yesterday in terms of my missing parts, turns out my kit is actually one of the very first kits that were prepared in the new system. As it turns out, some parts/hardware are not on the pack lists and therefore missing, so they are going line by line and double checking what parts are not on my list.. Just my luck!

[Namrups]

"Got an email from FFR yesterday in terms of my missing parts, turns out my kit is actually one of the very first kits that were prepared in the new system. As it turns out, some parts/hardware are not on the pack lists and therefore missing, so they are going line by line and double checking what parts are not on my list.."

Great news that they are doing this instead of leaving you hanging. FF has always been very good with their customer service and has a history of making things right. I think the combination of supply chain issues along with the software change thru them for a loop. Sounds like they are working thru it. I've received multiple shipments from them in the past 2 weeks with POL items. Things are getting better!

[burchfieldb]

"Got an email from FFR yesterday in terms of my missing parts, turns out my kit is actually one of the very first kits that were prepared in the new system. As it turns out, some parts/hardware are not on the pack lists and therefore missing, so they are going line by line and double checking what parts are not on my list.."

Great news that they are doing this instead of leaving you hanging. FF has always been very good with their customer service and has a history of making things right. I think the combination of supply chain issues along with the software change thru them for a loop. Sounds like they are working thru it. I've received multiple shipments from them in the past 2 weeks with POL items. Things are getting better!

I hope so, I have not seen anything in over a month. I check in regularly, but get no response from the shipping department. My build was also right after the switch over and has suffered the same fate as Nick's. :confused:

[Namrups]

Try giving your salesman an email.

[burchfieldb]

Try giving your salesman an email.

I was working with David Lindsey and shipping, he asked me not to copy him on the emails requesting shipping updates. I don't believe my sales guy works there anymore and is why David was working with me.

[nick729]

"Got an email from FFR yesterday in terms of my missing parts, turns out my kit is actually one of the very first kits that were prepared in the new system. As it turns out, some parts/hardware are not on the pack lists and therefore missing, so they are going line by line and double checking what parts are not on my list.."

Great news that they are doing this instead of leaving you hanging. FF has always been very good with their customer service and has a history of making things right. I think the combination of supply chain issues along with the software change thru them for a loop. Sounds like they are working thru it. I've received multiple shipments from them in the past 2 weeks with POL items. Things are getting better!

My personal experience is very disappointing with FFR in multiple instances (maybe this is just a foreigner thing, i don't know..). I had to fly into US just to finalize my order as it was taking forever over emails and in a few cases i was given wrong information. Also, it took me over a month to get the Kit picked up from FFR, since nobody from FFR bothered to reply, with multiple emails being ignored, requested multiple call-backs which were completely ignored. Even this vague answer was received 4 days after my initial request to send me an approved missing part list, as i had sent in my MIK form 2.5 weeks earlier, and even this reply was after another follow up email 3 days after no answer..

In most of the cases a telephone call would have been enough to sort everything out in 5mins and get the arrangements done. Instead you are stuck in a loop writing emails and waiting for answers for days, some of which get straight up ignored, some get half answered...

So fingers crossed that this was not just an email to get me of their back for a few weeks, but that they are actually doing what they say they are..

[nick729]

178141
sorted all the panel sheets and tried to find all of their places. I am left with 2 which i cannot figure out where exactly they go (seems like they have been revised splash guards as different panels are shown in the Manual):
178138
They are part number 60443 and 60444 "F WHL R TOP SPL GRD" left and right, but I still can't figure out where exactly do they go.. Any help? I assume these parts are mounted after the nose cone is fitted, along with the lower SPL GRD, but struggling to see how exactly they are meant to fit.

Radiators duct side panels, there are gaps on either side where it meets the duct back panel, thus making it impossible to rivet them to the the diagonal frame member. Should i just rivet them half way, and only rivet them to the duct at the back since the gap is around ~1cm on either side towards the back? On the same note, looks like the Radiator duct panels were revised as i have a top part of the back duct which is angled while the manual shows just i single longer piece for the back panel.
178139

Found out that the Kirkey Optional bucket seats do not come with any bracket to mount them.. I know it's not a popular option, as most go with different aftermarket buckets, but has anyone fitted these FFR optional seats and what brackets/sliders do you recommend? This seems to be the recommended bracket: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kir-99214
Not a fan of the cover either, feels cheat and leaves most of the back of the seat aluminum exposed... Will most likely get it retrimmed completely in leather along with dash, and door cards.
178140

[edwardb]

178141
sorted all the panel sheets and tried to find all of their places. I am left with 2 which i cannot figure out where exactly they go (seems like they have been revised splash guards as different panels are shown in the Manual):
178138
They are part number 60443 and 60444 "F WHL R TOP SPL GRD" left and right, but I still can't figure out where exactly do they go.. Any help? I assume these parts are mounted after the nose cone is fitted, along with the lower SPL GRD, but struggling to see how exactly they are meant to fit.

Radiators duct side panels, there are gaps on either side where it meets the duct back panel, thus making it impossible to rivet them to the the diagonal frame member. Should i just rivet them half way, and only rivet them to the duct at the back since the gap is around ~1cm on either side towards the back? On the same note, looks like the Radiator duct panels were revised as i have a top part of the back duct which is angled while the manual shows just i single longer piece for the back panel.
178139

Found out that the Kirkey Optional bucket seats do not come with any bracket to mount them.. I know it's not a popular option, as most go with different aftermarket buckets, but has anyone fitted these FFR optional seats and what brackets/sliders do you recommend? This seems to be the recommended bracket: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kir-99214
Not a fan of the cover either, feels cheat and leaves most of the back of the seat aluminum exposed... Will most likely get it retrimmed completely in leather along with dash, and door cards.
178140

You'll find (unfortunately...) that the pictures in the manual don't always keep up with the most recent revision of parts. Including aluminum panels. So don't take things too literally when they don't match. Your first question, yes those are splash panels that get installed into the nose cone and close against the splash guards on the chassis. I do recall receiving a batch of updated aluminum parts, and pretty sure these were one of them. Don't have a great picture, but they're visible in this one.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1870_cropped(1).jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1870_cropped(1).jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Mine was an early Gen 3 (#54) and I've seen pictures of the aluminum tunnel pieces that were changed after mine with the back wall being two pieces rather than one. Also, according to my notes, I received updated side panels. Don't remember the exact details since mine was assembled now nearly 5 years ago. Hard to believe. Anyway, it all works out. The side pieces near the back wall do stand proud of the underlying chassis. I riveted mine until about halfway as can be seen in this picture while still just clecos.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_0242.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_0242.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Sorry, can't help with your seats. No experience with Kirkeys.

[nick729]

You'll find (unfortunately...) that the pictures in the manual don't always keep up with the most recent revision of parts. Including aluminum panels. So don't take things too literally when they don't match. Your first question, yes those are splash panels that get installed into the nose cone and close against the splash guards on the chassis. I do recall receiving a batch of updated aluminum parts, and pretty sure these were one of them. Don't have a great picture, but they're visible in this one.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1870_cropped(1).jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1870_cropped(1).jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Mine was an early Gen 3 (#54) and I've seen pictures of the aluminum tunnel pieces that were changed after mine with the back wall being two pieces rather than one. Also, according to my notes, I received updated side panels. Don't remember the exact details since mine was assembled now nearly 5 years ago. Hard to believe. Anyway, it all works out. The side pieces near the back wall do stand proud of the underlying chassis. I riveted mine until about halfway as can be seen in this picture while still just clecos.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_0242.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_0242.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Sorry, can't help with your seats. No experience with Kirkeys.

Thanks for the reply. I checked your build diary first, but evidently not thoroughly enough to notice them being mounted on the nose cone itself.. Oops..

Great, confirmation on my thought process helps a lot. There are so many panels and it seems like a very daunting task to drill them out correctly, especially those which have a few panels overlapping.. Previous builds were a lot more straight forward in this sense. Also, i just realized, that since i will be powder coating all of the panels I will need to scrap the provided rivets and use painted rivets instead :)

I have not used Clecos before, they are a god send!

[nick729]

Slow progress

Installed the E-Brake assembly, everything more or less ok, apart from some interesting instructions, like forcing rod end into the e-brake assembly at the end by spreading the ends with a ratchet, rather than just installing the rod end before tightening the entire assembly.. Anyone know where the 2 washers included in the E-brake assembly are used?
178294

Had a crack on the pedal assembly and found out I am missing the switch brackets for the clutch and brake.. Also, no bolts for the FFR supplied top mount to the diagonal frame member. There is no mention of the 4 bolts needed for the lower mounts for the pedal assembly are they 5/16”x 1” button head screws? If so, i was only provided with 4 total for the E-brake and Pedal assembly, leaving me 2 short (2 are used for the E-brake handle). Ordered Tilton Engineering 72-576 3-Chamber Plastic Reservoir, which i will be using instead of the single brake reservoir supplied by FFR. Wilwood pedal assembly includes 3 jam nuts, are these just replacement jam nuts for the master cylinders or are they meant to be used somewhere?
178293

Is the dash panel meant to be angled, or does it sit horizontally? Does it need to be trimmed?
178295

Overall, the new inventory system implemented by FFR in my opinion is very confusing due to the fact, that the manual does not always include instructions on what bolts/nuts are used where and you receive a big separate box of fasteners (50+different bags of hardware) with no indication on where they are meant to be used, just the part number and size is provided. So there is absolutely no way, of knowing what to use where and even if you have the right hardware for it. A complete renewal of the manual is needed, or pack list of the Fastener box has to include description of where the hardware is to be used. Since my car is one of the very first to use this new system, there are lots of assemblies that are completely missing.. So far all of the boxes i have used had at least a few parts that are completely missing from the pack list, so explaining to FFR what i need without knowing the part numbers is fun.. Still waiting for that MIK form from FFR (3,5 weeks to date)..

i don't want to sound like a moaner as this seems like a recurring theme in my posts, just venting my frustration..

[edwardb]

The e-brake is used on multiple kits and in my experience often includes extra parts not used on your particular build. Coupe example -- doesn't use the right angle brackets normally used on the Roadster because the Coupe has the mounts already in the chassis. No surprise there may be extra hardware, etc. when done. That's assuming they're still packaging the pieces for that assembly in the manner I've seen previously. Assemble it like the exploded drawing shown in the manual and you should be OK.

For the pedal assembly, 5/16" x 1" SS button head screws sounds right for the mount. But don't have it in front of me. You should have received two mounts for the brake and clutch switches as shown in the instructions that are mounted to the Wilwood pedal box. They're pretty simple steel parts and would be easy to fabricate. But they they should have been included. I've always received them. I do recall receiving extra jam nuts for the Wilwood master cylinder pushrods. Only one is required for each MC.

For the dash, the front top rests on the angled section of the firewall and the rear top rests on the tube across the interior. That does result in being slightly downhill from horizontal toward the rear. But the vertical part facing the cockpit is straight up and down (perpendicular) to the floor. The bend in the piece is something less than 90 degrees. Looks like you have yours resting like it's supposed to be. But not at quite the right angle inside the cockpit. Perhaps the bend isn't quite right? I did not have to trim mine, other than modifications I made.

I have no experience with the changes Factory Five made with the new system. I agree the manual is relatively sparse with giving precise hardware details. In the past, those details were filled in by the hardware being grouped by the assembly they went into plus the box inventory lists had precise descriptions. If those two things are missing now, I understand your frustration. I see others on here have posted some details that may help. Wonder if later deliveries have included some help with this.

[bjblock]

I was also missing the switch mounts - they weren't on my inventory. It took a couple e-mails, but I eventually received those. I used the 5/16" x 1" button head screws for the pedal box. My fastener pack came with 22 of those and according to Namrups's inventory list thread, they are used in quite a few places.

For the top diagonal mount, those screws were also in my fastener pack (and I was very thankful that the fastener sizes are listed in the manual in this case). As a side note I had to do some minor manipulation to the mount because the bend was a few degrees too shallow.

[nick729]

@edwardb - thank you for the explanation!

@bjblock - yep, the mounts are not on my inventory either. I am guessing that FFR goes by the same inventory sheet when gathering all the parts, so if the part is not on the inventory list - they won't include it. That's how you end up with seemingly complete inventory, but when you are building your kit you quickly find out that there are parts and hardware which are missing and not on the inventory list.

After asking FFR what is the status of my missing part list, I was told to complete my inventory (i have done it 3,5 weeks ago and sent them the info) and only then they will ship all the parts in one go... So looks like they expect me to build the entire car, noting everything that is missing as this is the only way i can find what is missing from the inventory list itself...... We are just going around in circles it seems.

My diagonal mount is also not perfect, the holes on the pedal box are slightly too far towards the front. The bolts for the diagonal mount in my case are not on Fastener pack inventory list unfortunately :(

[nick729]

Quick question, i have my body shell stored outside on flat ground. Is it ok to keep the front windshield in its place on the body shell or does the shell need additional support?

[nick729]

Moving forward:

Decided to cover the front of trans tunnel, as many have done in their builds. Made a template out of cardboard, will be making the cover from 1mm aluminum sheet.
178460
Installed steering column, but could not complete it fully, as i do not have the bolts for pillow block... No real problems, other than sliding the steering shaft into the DD tube.
178461
What is the point of the fuel filler neck retainer? It seems like a poor fit overall which does not seem to be doing much.. The retainer it self has the mounting tab on the wrong side, so you have to bend it and reposition on the other side. Is it really necessary?
178462
Had a look at the Holey 12-132 450 LPH fuel pump. It needs a ~83mm hole to fit, while the stock fuel tank opening is around ~55mm. Of i go to get a 83mm hole saw head.
178463178464

[edwardb]

What is the point of the fuel filler neck retainer? It seems like a poor fit overall which does not seem to be doing much.. The retainer it self has the mounting tab on the wrong side, so you have to bend it and reposition on the other side. Is it really necessary?

It's a safety thing leftover from this same tank design used on millions of Mustangs (plus others?) back in the day. Intended to prevent the filler tube from exiting the tank in an accident. Agree it doesn't look like much and for the Coupe the frame design plus the wrong direction bend on the retainer makes the installation more difficult than on the Roadster. You could leave it off, but wouldn't be my recommendation. For my Coupe, I made a new retainer out of a piece of aluminum lined with a split piece of fuel line and attached to the frame with nutserts. Probably overkill, but it works. Did something similar on previous builds.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1669.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1669.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

[nick729]

Attempted installing Holley 12-132 fuel pump. Used OSB to make a template for the hole saw.

Had to shorten the fuel pump by 3cm as it was slightly too tall for the tank and it was hitting the side of the partition. So, after shortening it, it fits fine, however, i see no way to fit the sock filter as it is too big for the partition and it ends up pinched into a V shape around the pump itself, which i am sure is not ideal for fuel flow..

This is pre-cutting the pump hose:
178500178501

This is after shortening the hose with sock filter on:
178502

Should i remove the partition? Any suggestions how to do that? Tin snips on the corners and bend the sides to the bottom of the tank? Grinding of spot welds does not seem like a very easy task to do in this case..

[lewma]

I have that same pump but now I see your tank picture I'm not sure that partition is in my tank. I'm going to be removing my sender in the next week or so so I can stick a camera down there and see what mine looks like.

[burchfieldb]

Attempted installing Holley 12-132 fuel pump. Used OSB to make a template for the hole saw.

Had to shorten the fuel pump by 3cm as it was slightly too tall for the tank and it was hitting the side of the partition. So, after shortening it, it fits fine, however, i see no way to fit the sock filter as it is too big for the partition and it ends up pinched into a V shape around the pump itself, which i am sure is not ideal for fuel flow..

This is pre-cutting the pump hose:
178500178501

This is after shortening the hose with sock filter on:
178502

Should i remove the partition? Any suggestions how to do that? Tin snips on the corners and bend the sides to the bottom of the tank? Grinding of spot welds does not seem like a very easy task to do in this case..

I used this one that is made for the tank, but it is likely too late now, since you made the cut.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/efi_fuel_pumps/efi_in-tank_pumps/parts/12-345

[nick729]

Going to try to Dremel the spot welds from the inside and remove the partition that way, not sure how successful that is going to be given the limited space and poor visibility. If that fails, i think i will try to cut the sides of partition for the filter with a cut off wheel on the Dremel.

@burchfield - i went with a fuel pump which was recommended by Blueprint and i bought it with the crate engine. I knew i will have to shorten the pump and cut the tank, just did not expect to have to deal with the partition as it was not mentioned at all.

@lemwa - thank you for the effort, just interested to see what you did on yours and if we have different tanks :)

[nick729]

Tried to remove the partition from the fuel tank, results - cut up hands, lots of dust and unsatisfactory results.. Used a Dremel with the flexible extension, started of by trying to grind down the spot welds with round stone bit, moved on to metal cut off wheel but to no success. The angle is very awkward, making the job a lot harder than it should be. After failing to grind down the spot welds, decided to try and cut the partition front, again very awkward to do due to limited space.

Some pictures of my agony:
178584178585178586178587

Removing the front wall of the partition allows the pump to sit straight and around 2cm from the bottom. With the sock filter attached it is more or less touching the bottom of the fuel tank (sock filter adds ~2cms). What is the recommended height for the bottom of the sock? 1-2cms from the bottom?

I will try to get rid of the partition completely over the weekend, just need some better tools and inspiration to continue :)

In the mean time, slowly progressing with the sheet panel drilling, so far 4 broken drill bits and a sore hand :)

[nick729]

Received some parts from Summit and Eibach spacers.

Ordered Eibach 1" spacers - i recall many of you having to shorten the wheel studs as they are too long, however, in my case there were studs provided in the kit which were perfect fit and i did not have to shorten anything. Installing studs was a breeze with
Lisle Wheel Stud Installer 22800. I started of looking for black spacers as Eibach make them, turns out the black spacers are metric only and i did not want to end up with different lugs on the back.

Eibach part number: S90-4-25-033

178699178700

[nick729]

Preparing to do the brake lines, but have a few questions, since on my previous builds I avoided this by having the factory install the lines :) So this is going to be a first for me.

I assume the process is like this:
-Decide on the desired routing
-Bend the lines
-Cut of the excess
-Use a flaring tool to make a flare on the cut (is there a universal standard or i should look for specific US one?)
-Attach to the fitting

Is that the process since it does not say anything about cutting the lines in the manual?

I have 2 of these fittings (2 female and 1 male), judging by the manual this is used in the front, but i need a different T adapter with all 3 female connections for the rear? I assume i got sent 2x front adapters instead of 1 for the front and 1 for the rear?178920

The top trans tunnel panel, the only place it attaches to the frame is at the front where it sits on top of the firewall panel? On the sides (picture) it is only attached to the tunnel side panels? Is that right?
178921

Installed Howe Ball joints - i can see why many of you went for these instead of stock ball joints.
178919

Slowly progressing with sheet panel fitting and drilling. Managed to drill into my own finger last night - not fun :)

No information from FFR when they will have Double Adjustable shocks in stock and until then, they are refusing to send me any other parts, that i am missing... Will try to convince them to send me the diff bushings at least, so i can install the rear diff and all of the other IRS components..

[edwardb]

The build manual doesn't reference cutting and flaring brake lines because it's assuming you'll use the supplied lines as is. You'll see many variations in how they're run including coiling the excess length to avoid cutting and flaring. Personally, I'm not a fan of that approach and don't hesitate to cut and flare for neat, straight-in runs. The steel lines provided by FFR are easy to flare with a decent flaring tool. I use this one https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html and flares the steel lines beautifully. But overkill maybe. Just avoid the really cheap versions and practice with spare line before committing to the actual lines. The flare used in the kit is a 45 degree double flare. Common in the U.S., but not sure as common in Europe.

Those T adapter fittings are the same for the front and back. You have the right parts. Take another look at the routing and how they're connected. In both cases, they're splitting a single line to LH and RH sides.

For the aluminum panel in question, yes I believe what you described is correct. Picture from my build if it helps. I made both top covers removeable. So put screws along the edges at final assembly. Not present in this picture.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86927&d=1528479687

[nick729]

I might be misunderstanding, but to me it looks like the T adapter with all 3 sides being female, also it says 3-way female and looks different to the ones i have. The only way i could use the same one as in the front is if i connect it straight to the SS braided hose you get with Wilwoods as it is done in the front, but doubt the line will be long enough to do that.
178922

I plan on having removable covers for the tunnel too, the cover described does not fit all that well at the moment. Thanks for the input @edward

I realized that Guard Dawg is pretty much a must on these cars. I have not heard about the system up until now, i am guessing PBS-I is the way to go for me? Anything is a must or something to avoid? Like GPS tracker with lockout?

[edwardb]

I might be misunderstanding, but to me it looks like the T adapter with all 3 sides being female, also it says 3-way female and looks different to the ones i have. The only way i could use the same one as in the front is if i connect it straight to the SS braided hose you get with Wilwoods as it is done in the front, but doubt the line will be long enough to do that.
178922

I plan on having removable covers for the tunnel too, the cover described does not fit all that well at the moment. Thanks for the input @edward

I realized that Guard Dawg is pretty much a must on these cars. I have not heard about the system up until now, i am guessing PBS-I is the way to go for me? Anything is a must or something to avoid? Like GPS tracker with lockout?

I stand corrected. You're right. For the Roadsters, I did put the both front and rear T-adapters on the LH side and attached the flex hoses on the male side. But dug deeper and looked at pictures for the Coupe build. I put the rear splitter in the center, where the rear line came out of the transmission tunnel, and then routed lines to each side. So did use a T-adapter will all female connections. The picture from the manual isn't in the same location, but the same idea.

I have the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-I in my Coupe. Had one glitch (mostly user error, described in my build thread) but other than that very happy with it. That model only does one function (ignition) and some upgrade to the next model so they can add door poppers or whatever. No one is going to be able to start my car without a key fob and even then probably don't know the sequence. If it were to get stolen, most likely would be a flatbed or rollback tow truck, so not starting or lockout really not a big deterrent. But frankly I'm not worried about it because it's just not the common plus I'm careful where I park it, etc. Having said that, I do have an Apple AirTag in the glovebox. (Don't tell anyone.)

[Namrups]

I wanted door poppers so I went with the DGD PBS II. Very pleased.

[burchfieldb]

Preparing to do the brake lines, but have a few questions, since on my previous builds I avoided this by having the factory install the lines :) So this is going to be a first for me.

I assume the process is like this:
-Decide on the desired routing
-Bend the lines
-Cut of the excess
-Use a flaring tool to make a flare on the cut (is there a universal standard or i should look for specific US one?)
-Attach to the fitting

Is that the process since it does not say anything about cutting the lines in the manual?

I have 2 of these fittings (2 female and 1 male), judging by the manual this is used in the front, but i need a different T adapter with all 3 female connections for the rear? I assume i got sent 2x front adapters instead of 1 for the front and 1 for the rear?178920

The top trans tunnel panel, the only place it attaches to the frame is at the front where it sits on top of the firewall panel? On the sides (picture) it is only attached to the tunnel side panels? Is that right?
178921

Installed Howe Ball joints - i can see why many of you went for these instead of stock ball joints.
178919

Slowly progressing with sheet panel fitting and drilling. Managed to drill into my own finger last night - not fun :)

No information from FFR when they will have Double Adjustable shocks in stock and until then, they are refusing to send me any other parts, that i am missing... Will try to convince them to send me the diff bushings at least, so i can install the rear diff and all of the other IRS components..

You could probably get them to remove them from your order and reimburse you the cost. Then buy some QA1's or something similar to the double adjustable.

[rhk118]

Good progress so far Nick despite the parts shortages. That stinks that you are one of the first to have a kit from the new system, but when I received mine I had a similar number of missing pieces, but because they weren't available, not because they weren't actually on the inventory list. Your experience with FFR very similar to mine. Send an email, maybe get a response that night. If no response that night then it was 2-3 days if at all and send another email. I know it doesn't help you or me but I believe that the computer system upgrade the factory five did will help prevent these problems down the road for your POL and others. I can only imagine that for every single kit they send out they are receiving multiple emails about missing parts, needing replacements… Etc. What a time sink and loss of efficency that must be for them, at least it is getting addressed. Hopefully that gets better in the future, but I can say that they will get you your parts, it just won't be on your timeline, which gave me some time to plan and think and see what other people did on here. In the end they never left me hanging, despite no responses at times parts still showed up. I suspect because you're "over the pond" they might be batching shipment to you. I would get a box with 8" of a fuel line as the only thing in it for example.

Having said all of that, like you I was always able to find something else to do and had things relatively ready for when the parts came in. I'm impressed with your ability to make the cut out in the gas tank through the openings available to you, I can imagine how nicked up your hands were having worked on this, but good job with that. Panel fitting will be fun. Don't be afraid to grind down welds or trim panels to get them to sit flush. I just received some of my panels back from powder coating and see little areas where they sit up a millimeter or two from frame welds, splatter, or the panel being just being a little too large in some area so am going through a second time and fitting them better in places. And get at least 100 clecos! Thats all the advice I can give you for now!

If there are any parts you are in dire need of let me know, I might have them, just not shocks though!

[nick729]

@edwardb and @Namrups thank you for the info. I have no need for poppers at the moment, but maybe i should have a further look into it and decide which one to go with. Are there any off the shelf popper systems you could recommend, so that i can look into it a bit more? :)

@burchfieldb - this is something i am keeping in mind, the problem is that FFR won't tell me more or less on what is the timeframe on the shocks. If it is just a few weeks or a month, i've no problem waiting for it, but seeing as my kit was ready in July, and packed in October (due to delay from Blueprint), it gives me mixed feelings.. If it has been 6 months, the chances are that the shocks should be in stock pretty soon, on the other hand, there is no guarantee I won't have to wait for them for another 6 months... Anybody know what is the exact model of the Koni double adjustable shocks? Are there any 1:1 shocks that would fit instead of them anything anyone could recommend?

@rhk118 thank you for the encouraging words! Tank was not fun, lots of bruises on the hands, but over the weekend the welds were ground down and the partition was removed completely, will post some pics tomorrow. Glad it is over :) Panels are a lot of work, you are right on having to grind the welds, been doing that all over the frame. Will have to take a few days off, as my hands are pretty knackered after yesterday :)

p.s. for those of you who are overseas like me, the missing parts i get sent from FFR, come with an invoice, which means I pay duties and taxes on those items a second time (even though i already paid for it as the entire kit is shipped with a complete invoice including the missing parts, on which taxes and duties are calculated....) So yeh, all the missing parts get taxed a second time in my case 31% of the invoice value :)

[nick729]

So FFR is suggesting to swap to Standard Koni shocks they have in stock. Are the Double Adjustable Konis' worth it or is the difference insignificant?

[edwardb]

So FFR is suggesting to swap to Standard Koni shocks they have in stock. Are the Double Adjustable Konis' worth it or is the difference insignificant?

I've had both (on different cars) and for my nearly 100% street driving, can't say I've noticed much difference. But that's coming from an admittedly amateur performance driver. Three differences you may already know, which may/may not be important to you.


The red Koni's (30 series) are only adjustable in rebound. Compression is fixed. Can only be adjusted when removed.
The double adjustables (Koni 8212) are adjustable in both rebound and compression and can be adjusted in place, e.g. don't require removal. I've never changed mine once set.
Someone from Factory Five (I think Jim Schenck, but not 100% positive) posted some time ago that the double adjustables were a bit softer at their lowest settings than the red Koni's, so gave a slightly softer ride.

The double adjustables came as part of the 20th Anniversary package on my Roadster. I duplicated the exact setup when I ordered my Coupe because I liked the Roadster and didn't want to change anything. But they are an expensive choice. Made even harder now because they're not readily available? I don't think you'd be unhappy with the red Koni's as long as you were OK with the differences. There are other choices, e.g. QA1. But I have no experience or recommendations.

[Rsnake]

I have had both the single and double adjustable Konis as well as the double adjustable QA1 from Gordon at Levy Racing.
For street driving you cannot go wrong with the single adjustable. If you intend to track or auto cross the doubles are the way to go. With that being said the Konis are a pain to adjust as they only have one external knob and this weird method of adjusting the other function. The QA1's have two knobs and I can adjust all four dampers in 2 minutes. Leave them soft for the street and adjust in firmness for better track and auto cross response. If I forget to adjust you can really feel it, either way to firm for the street and too soft for the track. Love the QA1's.

[nick729]

Thank you @edwardb and @Rsnake

I am trying to get a rough estimate on when the Double Adjustable Konis will be available. If it's a month or even 2 I am willing to wait, but if it's more - I think i need to go the QA1 route. I do not understand how FFR doesn't have any indication on the timing from their supplier..?

[nick729]

So I am getting nowhere with FFR, few emails and a request for a phone call - completely ignored the entire week... Also, they have stated that they will not ship anything to me, until they have absolutely everything (which they do not provide even a rough estimate when that might be) as well as requesting that I go through my entire kit once again cross checking every part with the manual in case there are any other parts that are not on my inventory list due to the new system... Essentially, they are asking me to build the car in theory, note down everything else that is missing and then submit another final MIK form, wait for the parts to arrive and then actually build the car.

Am I being unreasonable or is this just absolutely terrible customer service?

https://lrclassicsllc.com/ - is this Gordon Levy, which few of you mentioned? Will ask about the QA1 shocks, if they are able to sell them to me.

[burchfieldb]

So I am getting nowhere with FFR, few emails and a request for a phone call - completely ignored the entire week... Also, they have stated that they will not ship anything to me, until they have absolutely everything (which they do not provide even a rough estimate when that might be) as well as requesting that I go through my entire kit once again cross checking every part with the manual in case there are any other parts that are not on my inventory list due to the new system... Essentially, they are asking me to build the car in theory, note down everything else that is missing and then submit another final MIK form, wait for the parts to arrive and then actually build the car.

Am I being unreasonable or is this just absolutely terrible customer service?

https://lrclassicsllc.com/ - is this Gordon Levy, which few of you mentioned? Will ask about the QA1 shocks, if they are able to sell them to me.

Going through a similar issue with the shipping department, they never respond to emails. I was told by my sales contact that they hired another person to help respond, but I still have not gotten one. I was trying to figure out when my missing M16 bolts for the rear control arms would ship. So I ended up just buying some from Bel Metric, since that was the only thing holding me up with installing them. Definitely do an inventory on the hardware packs, as the cost of the larger hardware adds up.

That is the site for Goron Levy.

[nick729]

Going through a similar issue with the shipping department, they never respond to emails. I was told by my sales contact that they hired another person to help respond, but I still have not gotten one. I was trying to figure out when my missing M16 bolts for the rear control arms would ship. So I ended up just buying some from Bel Metric, since that was the only thing holding me up with installing them. Definitely do an inventory on the hardware packs, as the cost of the larger hardware adds up.

That is the site for Goron Levy.

Are you also missing DA Konis? In my case the real issue is that they wont' provide any information as to when it will be available and at the same time they won't ship anything else until they get Konis... Which leaves me stuck without any idea what to expect and how long it will take.. My plan is to have the car completed in summer...

Thanks, will get in touch with Gordon!

[nick729]

Finished the fuel tank. An angle grinder was used to remove the majority of spot welds and then finished of with a Dremel. After removing the partition, spot weld remains were ground down to make sure it is smooth and won't rip the filter.
179320179318

Any idea how far from the bottom of the tank should i have the fuel pump? The instructions are really strange and don't make much sense to me. They take total height of the fuel pump 12inches (including the bit that is not in the tank) takes away the tank depth and then tells you to remove that much. So in my case the fuel pump pickup would sit 3 inches from the bottom of the tank (2/3 of the total tank depth), taking into consideration that there is no partition in the tank, i think this is far too high and there will be issues with fuel pickup, not to mention that under normal conditions I will only be able to use 2/3 of the total fuel...? I am thinking of making it sit just barely above the tank bottom with the filter resting on the fuel tank bottom. Any thoughts?

Brake line adapter - even though the manual shows 3way female T adapter for the rear, FFR do not provide this and instead tells you to use the same adapter as for the front routing it to the driver side rear.

Aluminum sheet panels - for the rear hatch side Aluminum panels and the rear hatch panel, I understand that these go in the car after body has been fitted. Should i pre-drill the floor aluminum sheet and frame now on the sides where the Hatch side sheets will attach to frame later on (where the 2 clamps are) and when i have the body on, i will just have to use the floor sheet panel holes as a guide for drilling through the Sheets?
179319

[David Williamson]

Not sure why they tell you to put the side panels in after the body is installed, I put them on before putting the body on. Just keep the back panel off so you have access to the body mounts and the wiring. With the sump removed from the tank you may have fuel starvation issues when the level is below 1/4 full. i would locate the pump about 3/8 inch above the botom the the tank, low as possible but still able to get flow.
David W

[burchfieldb]

Are you also missing DA Konis? In my case the real issue is that they wont' provide any information as to when it will be available and at the same time they won't ship anything else until they get Konis... Which leaves me stuck without any idea what to expect and how long it will take.. My plan is to have the car completed in summer...

Thanks, will get in touch with Gordon!

I went with the single adjustable Konis, I don't really plan on taking it to the track. I may upgrade later if I find that I need to.

[nick729]

So, there is no ETA on DA Konis at all. To get things moving along, decided to swap them out for a set of stock Konis and if I need to I will just order QA1 set from Gordon Levy.

The only item that is not in stock are the LS headers with also no ETA, hoping they won't take too long though.

I had a closer look at the provided clutch and brake reservoirs and i quite like the look of them after all. I did buy Tilton 3 part reservoir, but now having second thoughts on using it. Is there any real benefit to having 2 brake reservoirs instead of just 1?

[Namrups]

With one reservoir if you blow a hose you loose your braking ability. With two reservoirs you set it up with one for the front brakes and one for the rear brakes. If you blow a hose you still have braking ability.

I bought a third reservoir from FF.

[nick729]

Is that a common occurrence or problem? Just curious.

I can get FFR to send me a third reservoir in that case :)

[burchfieldb]

I went with the 3 reservoir option as well. Peace of mind I guess.179549

[David Williamson]

3 reservoir is an option but I am not aware of any failures from a single. Most of us don't have low level switches a and dash light to tell you to fill the brake fluid so regular level checks are important.
David W

[Namrups]

Personally I felt it was a safety concern. Also adds a little bling. :cool:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170561&d=1659576798

[Nigel Allen]

Check your build requirements. In Australia we must have seperate or segregated (single reservoir with front / rear outlet with internal divider) reservoir. It must also have a low level switch and indicator on the dash. A lot of the Australian Design Rules (ADRs) are shared with the UK. I believe Tilton & Wilwood offer an option for a reservoir with low level switch. I used a reservoir off of an unknown vehicle, that I got from a brake service specialist.

179569 179570

Reservoir on left is of single reservoir with front / rear outlet with internal divider design. Reservoir on right is hydraulic clutch.

Hope this helps. Not something you want have to do later...

Cheers,

Nigel

[nick729]

Check your build requirements. In Australia we must have seperate or segregated (single reservoir with front / rear outlet with internal divider) reservoir. It must also have a low level switch and indicator on the dash. A lot of the Australian Design Rules (ADRs) are shared with the UK. I believe Tilton & Wilwood offer an option for a reservoir with low level switch. I used a reservoir off of an unknown vehicle, that I got from a brake service specialist.

179569 179570

Reservoir on left is of single reservoir with front / rear outlet with internal divider design. Reservoir on right is hydraulic clutch.

Hope this helps. Not something you want have to do later...

Cheers,

Nigel

Thanks for the information.

There are no requirements in my case, since there is pretty much no way to actually register the car over here...

I have ordered a third reservoir from FFR, i'll wait until i get it and decide which way to go; use the stock FFR ones or Tilton :)

Managed to get FFR to send me the missing parts, the only part that will most likely not sent are the LS headers. In a few weeks time, hoping to get the build going at a much faster pace once I receive the parts.

[nick729]

Question about powder coating aluminum panels: i plan on getting the panels powder coated in a few weeks time. Since some of the panels are meant to be fitted only after the body has been put on the chassis, i have yet to drill through some of them and won't do that for another month or so. Is it a bad idea to powder coat the panels which are yet to be drilled? Or drilling into powder coated panels is not a big issue?

[edwardb]

Question about powder coating aluminum panels: i plan on getting the panels powder coated in a few weeks time. Since some of the panels are meant to be fitted only after the body has been put on the chassis, i have yet to drill through some of them and won't do that for another month or so. Is it a bad idea to powder coat the panels which are yet to be drilled? Or drilling into powder coated panels is not a big issue?

Fitting and drilling already PC'd panels isn't a big deal, although there's always the chance they may need to be tweaked, trimmed, whatever. Plus possibly damaged with the extra handling. That's why the usual recommendation is to fit and drill before PC. For the pieces I suspect you're talking about (cockpit rear outside corners, hatch sides and rear, firewall extensions, etc.) for the most part I drilled and fitted without the body on and then PC. The fit isn't affected by the body as much as the body is hard to get on with the pieces in place. Although you'll get different opinions about that. I followed the sequence in the manual but others put some of the parts on and are able to get the body installed with them in place.

[nick729]

That's right, I struggled to get the body off, so no way I will try to fit it back on with all the panels in place :) might try to get someone to give me a hand putting on the body just to see how the firewall extensions, hatch sides and such fit, to get a better idea of their position and possibly pre-drill those pieces too.

I plan on coating the inside of the body and hood with U-Pol Raptor. Anything to keep in mind or is it just straight forward process of sanding, degreasing and spraying a few layers on?

[edwardb]

I plan on coating the inside of the body and hood with U-Pol Raptor. Anything to keep in mind or is it just straight forward process of sanding, degreasing and spraying a few layers on?

Didn't do anything special on the several builds I've used it. Exactly what you described -- sand with heavy grit paper to knock of the bumps and anything loose, vacuum/clean/degrease, and mask/spray. Follow the directions for the Raptor and you'll be fine. It's a great product.

[GT_Rich]

Regarding our brake system and safety. If you loose a circuit, the brake bias pivot point is going to allow that circuit to bottom out before the other circuit gets pressure. There is not enough pedal travel to do that. You might get a small amount of pressure in the remaining circuit, but not much!!

[nick729]

Back from holidays so keen to resume building :)

To get the things moving i swapped to the standard Konis and now seems like all the parts that were missing are on their way to me (even the LS headers!). Yay! Hopefully, I will receive them by the end of next week. I am very curious to see how they are going to manage to ship the hatch glass without breaking it.

Anyways, some more progress:

"Borrowed" the idea for fitting the 3 reservoirs from @Namrups. Bought a 40x40x2 Aluminum piece, mocked it up, but decided to make the bracket follow the frame rather than having it sit level. Not sure how that will go, but i can always just make another bracket if it doesn't work out. Since, the provided bolts for the brackets are not metric, i will have to find replace them with M6 equivalent, since I do not have the nuts for securing them to the bracket and finding inch nuts over here is not likely....
180174180175180176180179
Not sure how others are cutting aluminum in straight lines, but i used a piece of straight wood and used it as a guide for the angle grinder with aluminum cutting disk. Worked out just fine and the garage smells of smoked wood :)

Also, finished removable footboxes and top of trans tunnel. Is there any point in riveting the back of the footbox to the dash sheet? Since it is a very small lip, i am considering just leaving it as is without drilling and riveting to the upright sheet..
180177180178

Howe Racing Ball joints - they started to seep through the nipples, is that something that should be happening?
180180

[nick729]

quick question on wheel studs, they could be 4mm longer and still clear the rim. Should i just leave them as it is and it will be ok, or should i use the FFR provided studs and shorten them to fit (4mm longer than the ones i currently have)???

this is what it looks like now:
181162

I cut the FFR provided stud to fit, however, I could not fit it to the hub.. Tried many times, but it just gets stuck 2-3mm out from where it should be. So, wondering if i should just leave the current ones in and not bother cutting and trying to fit the studs into the hubs.. Any thoughts?

I am using wheel stud installer, but even with an impact wrench i cannot get it seated all the way in...
181161

[neilkuy]

Nick, I am curious if you have inspected the body yet? I know they made new molds during the pandemic. apparently the lines are closer but I have heard stories of thin spots in the fiberglass.
I am planning to pick up my kit at the end of the month. I am a little nervous about the inventory and the support. looks like the support you miss from FFR you can gain from builders here. I will be following close behind your build and the builds you reference.
Neil

[nick729]

Nick, I am curious if you have inspected the body yet? I know they made new molds during the pandemic. apparently the lines are closer but I have heard stories of thin spots in the fiberglass.
I am planning to pick up my kit at the end of the month. I am a little nervous about the inventory and the support. looks like the support you miss from FFR you can gain from builders here. I will be following close behind your build and the builds you reference.
Neil

I have not looked at the body ever since i took it off. It is currently on my terrace out in the cold. I hope to try to test fit it in about a months time, but i am struggling to find some free time to continue building.

I do not plan to do any body work myself, hence, why i did not pay any attention to it. I do however, plan on coating the inside of the body with U-Pol raptor myself.

[nick729]

Had a friend over to help me with the diff, since fitting it by myself is not possible. So after 3 hours of sweating and cursing we managed to fit it. The problem is, which is also apparent on other IRS parts, that the welds distort the alignment, hence they are not perfectly straight and making it unnecessarily difficult to fit any parts to it. I had to pry apart most of the IRS components as they are too narrow to fit the hubs and other parts.

Do not put on the sway-bar bushing mounts before putting in the diff :)

Anyways, fitted the cv axles, but not sure if the fitment is right or it should still go in further.?? Manual says 3mm gap is where it should be, however, driver side is around 5mm and passenger side is <3mm. Thoughts?

181318181319

Diff vent, do i just hammer in the provided breather?

[nick729]

There are no instructions on the Rear Hatch side panels and cockpit outside panels. Does the fitments of these not matter much?

Should hatch side panels line up with the bottom of the frame or are they meant to stick out a bit? If i line them up with the frame, the top of cut out rubs against the cage on both sides.
181572181573

Also, the cockpit outside panels touch the cage at the top.

[edwardb]

There are no instructions on the Rear Hatch side panels and cockpit outside panels. Does the fitments of these not matter much?

Should hatch side panels line up with the bottom of the frame or are they meant to stick out a bit? If i line them up with the frame, the top of cut out rubs against the cage on both sides.
181572181573

Also, the cockpit outside panels touch the cage at the top.

Actually both are in the build manual. But you have to go toward the back because they show putting those (plus others) in after the body is installed. In my manual, the hatch side panels are are on page 479 and the cockpit outside corners are page 488. Yours is likely different due to versions, etc. But gives you an idea. Some on here say these and other pieces can be installed without any issues before the body is on. Maybe. I did the sequence as described in the manual. With the body on, your questions about placement would be more obvious IMO. I found those pieces fit mine OK.

[nick729]

Wow, not sure how i managed to miss that. Thanks!

It's on page 507 and 516 on mine in case someone is as blind as i am :)

[Namrups]

I found I had to trim mine a little to fit the welds. I am one of the folks edwardB mentions that installed the side panels before the body. In my case it was a non issue. I had also installed the corner panels right behind the seats. These in retrospect should be left until after body is on. It can be done but makes it harder.

[nick729]

Great, i am planning on putting the body on in a few weeks time, so will wait for that before installing those pieces.

On another note, i will be installing the engine over the weekend. Opened the crate today to have a closer look and realised the t56 does not come with the mount on it as apparently it is a FFR supplied part. looked through all the boxes and i don't have the trans mount... i do have the engine mounts though, so i will install it anyways to get the build going further so i can figure out where i can put the other bits that need to go in the engine bay.

Looks like the last shipment from FFR was not really the last one afterall.

[nick729]

Things just don't seem to go my way. Had a look at the power steering.

Instead of the 5/8 and 9/16 adapters for the rack I have 2x 9/16, so i don't have an adapter for the return (did not measure the adapters when taking inventory, just saw 2 similar ones and marked them down)

The LS PS pump also has -10 An return, so i don't have the line for that either as I was provided with a simple 3/8 non braided line for the return from reservoir.

Reservoir uses 3/8 NPT adapters, one with -06 AN for the return line from the rack and -10 AN for the return from the reservoir to the pump. No adapters provided for that either.

I am left over with straight -06 An to 16mm adapter (black) with seemingly nowhere to use it.

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[nick729]

Need advice on the engine mounts, as they don't seem to properly align with the engine mount plate.

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One of the holes on each of the engine mounts does not line up with the engine plate. What do you think i should do? Enlarge the engine mount holes to fit better (assuming that the engine plates have the holes in proper place to match the holes on the engine)? I plan on putting in the engine on Sunday, but i will be taking it out again. I have asked FFR for advice, but they are unlikely to respond before Monday...

Thoughts?

[nick729]

Engine is in, wasn't hard at all, no clearance issues.

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