Concerns over crated engine

[DTraina]

Hi forum - after months of waiting for parts and a few more of assembly, I'm finally ready to drop the engine (Blueprint 306 + TKX600) into the chassis. I called Blueprint with a couple of questions and they weren't happy that I'd let my engine sit crated for the past 10 months. Apparently, I should have been lubing and hand cranking the engine every month or two to avoid rust - something that would have been good to know 10 months ago (I'm a novice).

My questions are: Is their concern valid? Did I blow it? And also - how do I "lube" the engine? The guy at BP suggested spraying WD40 into the spark plug sockets and hand-cranking the engine. Can anyone give me more detailed, step-by-step instructions on how to lube the engine? OR at this point, since I'm so close to dropping it into the chassis anyway, should I just install it, fill it with oil, and go through the normal start-up process?

[Alan_C]

At a minimum, I would remove the plugs and put Marvel Mystery Oil or Stabil Fogging Oil into each cylinder. Then rotate the engine to lubricate the rings and cylinder walls.
If really concerned, borrow a endoscope and look into each cylinder to see if there is any rust accumulation.
My take out 2nd Gen Coyote had been sitting on the engine stand for about 5 years now. I use the fogging oil to protect my engine as I still have 12 to 18 months or so to go before first start.

[DTraina]

At a minimum, I would remove the plugs and put Marvel Mystery Oil or Stabil Fogging Oil into each cylinder. Then rotate the engine to lubricate the rings and cylinder walls. If really concerned, borrow a endoscope and look into each cylinder to see if there is any rust accumulation.


Thanks Alan - I lubed the engine this afternoon with the Flogging Oil, gave it a solid 10-12 complete hand cranks. Feeling good about things, but went ahead and ordered an endoscope on Amazon just to be safe. Since the engine was kept wrapped in plastic, in the closed crate, in my garage, and because I live in San Diego where the weather is mild and low humidity, I'm hoping little to no rust set in.

[hineas]

I didn't even know this was a thing! Our 347 from BluePrint sat for several months before our first start...

[Daddy O]

Glad I saw this. Have not fogged mine either or known I should have been. Engine was installed 6 months ago. BP 347 carb. With so many novices building these kits, would be nice for BP to not assume we would know to be doing this regular lubrication.

[rich grsc]

There is no need for special 'fogging' oil, just a small amount of engine oil in each cylinder​, turn the engine over by hand a couple of times and it'll be fine for a long time.

[jts359]

Before starting that engine you can prelube it by removing the Distributor and buy or modify a oil pump shaft , Then spin it with a drill in the direction that the distributor turns , This is in addition to lubricating the cylinders , Ed

[Jeff Kleiner]

Guess I’ve been doing it all wrong…almost every year I park mine in October and don’t start it again until March or April. All I do is stick the key in the ignition and fire it up :rolleyes:

Jeff

[Papa]

I'd be more concerned about flushing the water out. Mine sat for about three months and I found that the water from the dyno runs had no antifreeze in it and there was a lot of rust in it. Of course, I figured this out after filling the coolant system. Do a complete flush of the system before adding coolant.

[rich grsc]

Guess I’ve been doing it all wrong…almost every year I park mine in October and don’t start it again until March or April. All I do is stick the key in the ignition and fire it up :rolleyes:

Jeff
WHAT??????? You don't disassemble the thing and wrap each part in cosmoline at the end of the year. :rolleyes::p

How many here know what that is, don't look it up. :rolleyes:

[Mike.Bray]

WHAT??????? You don't disassemble the thing and wrap each part in cosmoline at the end of the year. :rolleyes::p

How many here know what that is, don't look it up. :rolleyes:

I use Seal-N-Peel

[Papa]

WHAT??????? You don't disassemble the thing and wrap each part in cosmoline at the end of the year. :rolleyes::p

How many here know what that is, don't look it up. :rolleyes:

You mean that gunk my M-16 was covered in when new?

Dave

[BluePrintEngines]

Best practice is to just leave the engine in a cool dry location. I would recommend removing the spark plugs and spraying some WD-40 or a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil down each cylinder and cranking the engine over by hand to lubricate and coat the cylinder walls. Then make sure to seal up all holes and keep cool and dry in a climate-controlled environment at the same temp above freezing. I would make sure when time comes to start the engine up that you blow out all the cylinders with shop air before cranking it over. Do not be alarmed if the engine starts to smoke for a while. If you have any other questions, feel free to reach out to us.

[nucjd19]

WHAT??????? You don't disassemble the thing and wrap each part in cosmoline at the end of the year. :rolleyes::p

How many here know what that is, don't look it up. :rolleyes:


Good ole Cosmoline. The Russians LOVED that stuff with their Mosin Nagants.

[TBull]

WHAT??????? You don't disassemble the thing and wrap each part in cosmoline at the end of the year. :rolleyes::p

How many here know what that is, don't look it up. :rolleyes:

Rich, you know I know what it is. :)

[drewr]

It took me a week to clean all the cosmoline out of my CMP M1 Garand. That stuff will preserve anything forever.

[nucjd19]

It took me a week to clean all the cosmoline out of my CMP M1 Garand. That stuff will preserve anything forever.

Dang near like dipping a part in the La Brea Tar Pits.

[mladen]

Does anyone have a pointer to a more detailed guide on some of these, for those of us that have never seen a crated engine before? Like, this is me hearing about flushing the coolant out of the engine :D

171860

[jts359]

Is this a flat tappet or a roller cammed engine ? Either way there are certain methods of breaking that engine at its initial start up , Ed

[dbo_texas]

I've got a Gen2 crate Coyote which has been sitting since about Jan 2020 (bought my kit from a previous builder who started in 2019). I had no idea I need to lubricate it and turn the crank until I saw this post. I'm quite a ways from first start still. Is the best way to do this to spray the wd40 or fogging oil in through the spark plug holes and then turn the crankshaft bolt on the front of the engine a few revolutions? I don't know a ton about engine maintenance (learning as I go). I do have all the holes taped/plugged and the engine is married to the trans (T56).

[drewr]

If the engine was assembled with low viscosity oil, like WD40, yes you need to retreat it every so often. If it was assembled with high viscosity assembly lube and engine oil, I don't think you need to worry about it. Especially if the ports and plug holes are closed off. Most engine builders coat the cylinder walls and the piston rings with oil during assembly. A BP engine has been run, correct? So oil should have been fully cycled through that engine.

I wouldn't worry about it. Of all the possible things you can screw up in these cars, that's probably low on the list. Especially if you bought a crate engine.

[mcwho]

I agree with alan_c i,
did not get any instructions either, mine was from "the engine factory" i messed with the carb for over a year" Edelbrock" and finally went with a quickfuel ss 650. happy now.

[MB750]

I have to wonder if there's a difference in storage between cylinders with a fresh bore (engine never started) and one that's broken in.

I mean, I'm sure there's a easier chance to get rust on a cylinder wall that's fresh cast iron rather than one that is glazed over from being run.

[narly1]

I have to wonder if there's a difference in storage between cylinders with a fresh bore (engine never started) and one that's broken in.

I mean, I'm sure there's a easier chance to get rust on a cylinder wall that's fresh cast iron rather than one that is glazed over from being run.

I know that when I rebuilt my 302 the bores got a wipe down with automatic transmission fluid (ATF) as a cleaner.

At the very least the bores should be cleaned before loading the pistons in. Hopefully something with some oil in it (as opposed to pure solvent) is used.

Earl

[AC Bill]

I guess they aren't worried about the engine assembly lube being disturbed, if they want you to rotate the engine several times a year?

[Daddy O]

I think this thread started because he has a Blueprint dyno run engine.

[rich grsc]

Good lord. :rolleyes: I've worked on engine for 60 years. I've torn down engines that sat for 5-10 years and as long as rain was kept out of the intake and exhaust, they were fine. The oil on the cylinder walls isn't going anywhere, but if you feel better then put some oil in the plug holes and turn it over by hand. NOTHING bad is going to happen

[MB750]

Good lord. I've worked on engine for 60 years. I've torn down engines that sat for 5-10 years and as long as rain was kept out of the intake and exhaust, they were fine. The oil on the cylinder walls isn't going anywhere, but if you feel better then put some oil in the plug holes and turn it over by hand. NOTHING bad is going to happen

Good to know, thank you. Mine's been sealed up for a month now and won't run in the Roadster for at least 8 months but I made sure the pistons and cylinders had a good coating of oil while going together. I've since turned it over many times (setting the cam timing mostly, and installing rockers), but I'm sure there's still oil in the micro-groves from bore machining so I'm not worried. It's in my garage, which never reaches dew point so I'm not worried about moisture developing on anything metal.

[Parsaver]

What i find ironic is i called Blueprint over a month ago and asked them what the lead times were on an engine. I said i was concerned about getting the engine and having it sit for a year while i was building the car. They told me to give them a deposit and they would put me on the list and when i was ready for it, it would be the next one they would build. The kicker is, i asked the gentleman at Blueprint if that would hurt the engine, sitting on the crate like that for months and he told me as long as i wrapped it in plastic i didn't have anything to worry about....

[Mike.Bray]

I used to travel internationally and sometimes I would be gone for a couple of months at a time. I really hated if I had to park my car at the airport for one of these long trips. Park, raise the hood, remove the plugs, spray a little oil into the cylinders, turn it over. And then repeat when I returned.

Apparently this might not have been necessary??

[Papa]

I used to travel internationally and sometimes I would be gone for a couple of months at a time. I really hated if I had to park my car at the airport for one of these long trips. Park, raise the hood, remove the plugs, spray a little oil into the cylinders, turn it over. And then repeat when I returned.

Apparently this might not have been necessary??

Absolutely not! You could have gotten a ride to the airport and left your car at home. :p

[Avalanche325]

I haven't run mine since Sunday. Am I going to be OK???

[rich grsc]

OH god no, a complete teardown is needed. :rolleyes::p
and don't forget to rotate the air in the tires

[Avalanche325]

...and don't forget to rotate the air in the tires

I don't need to. I just put the flat spot on top.

[rich grsc]

smart man:p

[Theshandman]

LOL! Some funny comments in this thread to a serious question. I for one picked up my BPE in January this year and stored it in my friend's barn (never went below 32F) until June when we "stabbed" (anyone ever hear or use the term "stab" to reference installing an engine?) it in my car. After getting all the support infrastructure installed (i.e. oil, gas, coolant etc.), and having 'stabbed' the engine, we spun it for the BPE recommended 20 seconds without ignition to prime the oil. We could hear a smoother spin after only a few revs. Then, after hooking everything up, the first start went perfectly.