Clutch Pedal Height and Frame Interference - Post Build

[Chopper]

Hey all,

As the title suggests, I'm wondering what my options are for lowering the clutch pedal post build. I have a hydraulic setup (Forte), and the clutch pedal is pretty high as otherwise it would interfere with the frame (mk IV). Now, since I built my car, I have seen various solutions to this, including the very elegant solution used by Edwardb on his last roadster. However, when I built my car, I didn't have the confidence...knowledge...whatever to realize that I should have cut the frame tube and reinforced it to allow for better clutch travel. Instead, I set the clutch high and I've been living with it. Yes, go ahead and point and laugh. I know this is a self created problem. :)

The clutch works fine, but as time goes on, I think it would be a lot more comfortable if I could lower it. My question is, what' the (relatively) best solution to deal with this post build? I am considering pulling the driver's seat, disconnecting the pedal and laying in the footbox to try and cut the frame tube and add a reinforcement. Something that would be easy on a build, but hard on a finished car. I'm not sure there's room, but possibly it could be made to work. Before embarking on such an adventure, I wanted to check and see if anyone had any suggestions, thoughts, etc.

Thanks!

[JohnK]

I had some interference between the clutch pedal and frame, and decided to take a little bit off the clutch pedal rather than modifying the frame. Mentioned in my build thread here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(Picking-up-the-chassis)&p=368085&viewfull=1#post368085).

[boat737]

I think you are talking about the interference with the angled 3/4" tube.

I cut away about 2/3 thickness of the tube so the pedal cleared. To strengthen it back up, I made a 1/4' thick piece of bar stock (I think 1/2" or 5/8" wide, about 4 or 5 inches long) that I drilled and tapped for three 1/4" bolts. I jammed as much J-B Weld in the tube as I could, inserted the bar stock, and bolted it all up tight. I think it was a little bit of overkill, but hey, if it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing.

[Chopper]

Thanks guys. This is exactly the issue I am describing. I'm just not sure if I can reach to do it on a finished car. I like both options...shaving the pedal may be the easier one post build. JohnK - I assume you've had no issues? doesn't look like it took too much meat off.

[JohnK]

My car isn't on the road yet, so I can't give you a reassuring answer like "no problems in 10k miles" but I didn't have to remove that much material and I don't foresee any problems.

[edwardb]

Way back in the day when this was hot topic (before FF finally admitted it was a problem and fixed it...) there was a lot of debate about the best fix. Cut the tube and reinforce (what I did as noted above) or trim the pedal arm. Didn't search for it, and the details don't matter, but an obviously knowledgeable engineer posted the details of a load analysis of the trimmed pedal arm. Conclusion? It was still many times stronger than required and a very safe fix. For a finished build, by far the easiest fix.

[runamuk]

My brake pedal barely makes the brake switch and I spent a long time setting up both pedals to ensure the switches would open/close when the brake and clutch pedals were released. I cant lower my brake pedal anymore than where it's at without having to change how the brake light switch works, the clutch pedal can only be dropped about 1/4 inch.