Windshield Install - Question about drilling the window frame

[txboiler]

I have short edge distance on the PS upper attach hole.

I have the body fit, front to back and side to side. I have the front and rear bumper bolts installed, but I have not installed the front brackets that go from the from bumper bolts to the turn signals. I do have the front EX-17B grommets, from installed Metro Molded Products, installed and 5/8" shim between the body and the 3/4 frame tube (per conversation with J. Kleiner). I tried to install the windshield and the "rough" opening for the windshield posted from FFR were pushing the arms inboard. I opened the holes up by approximately 0.125" and the windshield fit in.

I sent the distance from the center of the top screw to the rear edge of the door opening at 27" per https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41918-Windshield-angle&highlight=windshield+install. I marked the frames and removed the windshield.

The red circle are the marks transferred through the frame attach holes. The PS upper hole has very little edge distance the DS holes appear to be much better

171693

171696

The blue marks on the hole on the right are the Center of the red hole and 1/4" marks (1/2" dia). The edge distance is approx 1/8"

171695


I plan to drill and tap the holes and use a nut to lock it down. Am I missing something? I could "pull the hole" and get some more edge distance, but I will loose some of the "adjustability" created by the large diameter hole in the frame.

Ideas?

Thanks in advance

[Jeff Kleiner]

Transfer the Cole centerline to the center of the post and drill. Open up the body slots as necessary.

Jeff

[FFinisher]

I drill and tap the windshield posts, much easier than trying to get a nut and washer on the backside.

[wallace18]

I drill and tap the windshield posts, much easier than trying to get a nut and washer on the backside.

I did this on my last MK4 build and it made the whole install much easier. As well as removal for paint. :cool:

[txboiler]

Transfer the Cole centerline to the center of the post and drill. Open up the body slots as necessary.

Jeff


I drill and tap the windshield posts, much easier than trying to get a nut and washer on the backside.



Jeff and FFinisher, I appreciate the feedback, I was contemplating that but I guess I talked myself out of it initially. I was concerned that it would throw the 27" dimension off . I guess there is enough play between the bolt and the larger diameter hole in the chassis to still be able to achieve this dimension. :cool:

Mike

[boat737]

A caution. Just be sure to shim the arms properly so that there is no twisting or lateral force put on the arms. You want the windshield (arms to windshield frame) to be as stress free as possible.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jeff and FFinisher, I appreciate the feedback, I was contemplating that but I guess I talked myself out of it initially. I was concerned that it would throw the 27" dimension off . I guess there is enough play between the bolt and the larger diameter hole in the chassis to still be able to achieve this dimension. :cool:

Mike

The guy who has to take it all apart and then put it back together after body and paint will REALLY appreciate it if you tap the holes ;)

Jeff

[txboiler]

The guy who has to take it all apart and then put it back together after body and paint will REALLY appreciate it if you tap the holes ;)

Jeff

I picked up 1/2" -20 tap and hardware at lunch today. I had a 1/2 -13" tap but wanted to get a few more threads in the windshield arm. As long as we are discussing the preferences of the body and paint guy who takes it apart, does he prefer or fine course threads, lock washer or loctite? :D

Also do you have a dimension from top windshield fastener to the where the door latch attaches on the frame? I believe I have my body set best for forward and aft position but Before I drilled this holes this evening I wanted to use that as a method to double check.

Thanks

[Jeff Kleiner]

I picked up 1/2" -20 tap and hardware at lunch today. I had a 1/2 -13" tap but wanted to get a few more threads in the windshield arm. As long as we are discussing the preferences of the body and paint guy who takes it apart, does he prefer or fine course threads, lock washer or loctite? :D

Also do you have a dimension from top windshield fastener to the where the door latch attaches on the frame? I believe I have my body set best for forward and aft position but Before I drilled this holes this evening I wanted to use that as a method to double check.

Thanks

Oh lord no, no loctite! Either 1/2-13 or 1/2-20 is fine (I do 1/2-13 so that I can use the supplied bolts). I’m not following you on your measurement question???

Jeff

[wallace18]

He is talking of windshield rake for soft top.

[nucjd19]

As Jeff said and per the manual on page 371.
"At the marks made on the sidebar, measure and mark the center of the sidebar to give the correct angle adjustment on the windshield. Drill the holes with a 1⁄2” bit." It was confusing to me too when I got to that point and had very similar hole position. After reading the above and perusing window installs on the thread I figured out to center the markings. Then Taped Per Jeff's instructions and then spent 3 days fitting and removing and bending and fitting and removing and bending and fitting and removing and bending to keep the minimal stress on the glass.

[txboiler]

As Jeff said and per the manual on page 371.
"At the marks made on the sidebar, measure and mark the center of the sidebar to give the correct angle adjustment on the windshield. Drill the holes with a 1⁄2” bit." It was confusing to me too when I got to that point and had very similar hole position. After reading the above and perusing window installs on the thread I figured out to center the markings. Then Taped Per Jeff's instructions and then spent 3 days fitting and removing and bending and fitting and removing and bending and fitting and removing and bending to keep the minimal stress on the glass.

nucjd19 yep went back and looked....sure enough there it is in the instruction book. (funny how the instructions sometimes have the answer I was looking for). All joking aside; since the spacing of the holes was not the same from the right to left side (see my photos above) I was concerned about putting "load" on windshield if I centered both sets of holes on the center of the post. I spoke with jeff and we decided the is enough clearance between the diameter of the chasis holes and the bolt that we should not pre load the frame.

I centered the holes, marked, drilled and tapped last evening. Plan to fit check again this evening.

[Avalanche325]

If you do use shims. Use a little spray adhesive, that you use for the carpet, on them. That way you have one shim that you have to deal with, and drop in your face when hanging upside down, rather than several pieces.