Prepping the Blueprint 427 FI engine

[mladen]

Hey all,

Wanted to get thoughts from folks that also used a Blueprint 427 fuel injected engine (https://www.factoryfiveengines.com/blueprint-engines-factory-five-engines/blueprint-engines-mk4-roadster-engines/427-c-i-ford-fuel-injected-ho-stage-1). Mine is coming with alternator, power steering, and a TKX transmission.

What things did you need/want to do prior to installation? I'm thinking of using this (https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/255-lph-in-tank-fuel-pump-assembly-with-3-8-outlet/) in-tank fuel pump from Breeze instead of the external pump that comes with the engine.

Also, what did you use for the hydraulic clutch (slave cylinder, bracket etc)? I see a lot of folks use Mike Forte's kit, but since I have the master cylinder and reservoir from FFR already, thought I'd just get the parts I need instead.

Did you do anything else that you would recommend, or perhaps something you wish you had done?

[Chopper]

Hello.

I would recommend an in-tank pump, the linked one is what I have had in my car for the last 8 years. With a 427 you also will probably want the pro-M fuel pump hanger (https://www.promracing.com/high-flow-fuel-pump-hanger-for-1986-1997-mustangs.html). You can install that pump in this hanger as well. You could ask Mark at Breeze if it is possible to buy the pump without the hanger as well.

You could call Mike Forte and ask if he'll see you just the mounting bracket, or mounting bracket and slave cylinder. I am willing to bet he's pretty flexible. Make sure to check that the slave cylinder size is a good match for the master cylinder FFR is shipping you.

As far as an assembled crate, for the most part, mount the bell housing and transmission (if Blueprint does not do this), and drop it in. Make sure you can get under the car to guide the tail of the transmission, the job is a lot easier with 2-3 people. The biggest advice I would offer is to make sure you have everything done in the engine bay that would be near the engine, such as fuel lines, electrical, and panel rivets (especially if you run a front battery box). Once the engine is in, you'll have limited access to these areas. However, I know many builders install and remove the engine one or more times (mine was a one and done show).

427, I'm a little jealous! :)

[CaptB]

Is BPE now shipping 427s? Last I had heard was....well it wasn't good news.

[mladen]

Hello.

I would recommend an in-tank pump, the linked one is what I have had in my car for the last 8 years. With a 427 you also will probably want the pro-M fuel pump hanger (https://www.promracing.com/high-flow-fuel-pump-hanger-for-1986-1997-mustangs.html). You can install that pump in this hanger as well. You could ask Mark at Breeze if it is possible to buy the pump without the hanger as well.

You could call Mike Forte and ask if he'll see you just the mounting bracket, or mounting bracket and slave cylinder. I am willing to bet he's pretty flexible. Make sure to check that the slave cylinder size is a good match for the master cylinder FFR is shipping you.

As far as an assembled crate, for the most part, mount the bell housing and transmission (if Blueprint does not do this), and drop it in. Make sure you can get under the car to guide the tail of the transmission, the job is a lot easier with 2-3 people. The biggest advice I would offer is to make sure you have everything done in the engine bay that would be near the engine, such as fuel lines, electrical, and panel rivets (especially if you run a front battery box). Once the engine is in, you'll have limited access to these areas. However, I know many builders install and remove the engine one or more times (mine was a one and done show).

427, I'm a little jealous! :)

Thanks Chopper. I've oredered the Breeze setup. Will see the instructions once I get the engine today. I do notice that the Breeze one has a pinched off return vs the hanger you linked to doesn't.

Good idea on seeing if I can get the bracket only from Forte. All three master cylinders I got from FFR seem to be the same (including clutch).

[mladen]

Is BPE now shipping 427s? Last I had heard was....well it wasn't good news.


If you mean the delays due to block shortage, yeah. Seems to be getting better. I made the order mid May 2021,with the original delivery date, if I remember correctly, December of that year. Then half way through they informed me it would be September of this year. It is supposed to arrive today by FedEx freight, so looks like it's picking up a bit.

[mladen]

Heard back from Joshua from Blueprint. He says the engine comes with a hydraulic throwout bearing, McLeod 1406-30, so no external slave is required, just that I should pay attention to having the right master cylinder. Key parts of the instructions being:

1) Master cylinder bore size (3/4” recommended). Bore Diameter found on side of most aftermarket
master cylinders.
2) Clutch pedal travel.
3) Master cylinder “Push Rod” stroke should be 1”minimum.
4) 6:1 Pedal ratio. See http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5262 for more info. (seems to be a dead link though)

[Chopper]

Thanks Chopper. I've oredered the Breeze setup. Will see the instructions once I get the engine today. I do notice that the Breeze one has a pinched off return vs the hanger you linked to doesn't.

Yes, the pro-M hanger is -6an in both directions (3/8 feed and return). The stock setup is 3/8 feed and I believe 1/4 return. They claim that they lower the return on the hanger to prevent agitation in the fuel tank as well. I like it for the fact that it has -6an fittings built into it, so no adapters are needed.

[Chopper]

Heard back from Joshua from Blueprint. He says the engine comes with a hydraulic throwout bearing, McLeod 1406-30, so no external slave is required, just that I should pay attention to having the right master cylinder. Key parts of the instructions being:

1) Master cylinder bore size (3/4” recommended). Bore Diameter found on side of most aftermarket
master cylinders.
2) Clutch pedal travel.
3) Master cylinder “Push Rod” stroke should be 1”minimum.
4) 6:1 Pedal ratio. See http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5262 for more info. (seems to be a dead link though)

Ideally you get to use what FFR ships you. I don't know offhand what they sell for the hydraulic clutch. However, Wilwood MCs are not terribly expensive if you need to change the size. If you get a hydraulic throw-out bearing, excellent. I don't have any experience with these on a FFR, but seems like people are happy so long as you follow the install directions correctly...I would do one in another build. Or, if I ever change my clutch I would strongly consider it.

[mladen]

Seems like things are fitting nicely as far as parts. Makes sense too since FFR does partner with Blueprint on the engines. Wish there was a bit more of this in the manuals. The cylinders are 3/4, i need to confirm the travel, and the pedal ratio.

[FLPBFoot]

For my Blue Print 427 it was necessary to take a bit off the mounting area to get the motor mounts to fit and bolt down tight. Not sure if that is still needed? Also, don't forget to attach the engine ground strap between the motor mount and the motor. I got my engine all bolted down in the car and had to pull it up and out a bit to unbolt the motor mount and add the strap. Rookie mistake on my part.

Good luck....you are going to love the 427!

[mladen]

For my Blue Print 427 it was necessary to take a bit off the mounting area to get the motor mounts to fit and bolt down tight. Not sure if that is still needed? Also, don't forget to attach the engine ground strap between the motor mount and the motor. I got my engine all bolted down in the car and had to pull it up and out a bit to unbolt the motor mount and add the strap. Rookie mistake on my part.

Good luck....you are going to love the 427!

Thanks ILBFoot! Are you referring to the bracket on the transmission needing to be cut or is there something else?

[first time builder]

Be cautious of the throw out bearing lines exiting the bellhouse. several have chaffed and broken the hoses.

[mladen]

Be cautious of the throw out bearing lines exiting the bellhouse. several have chaffed and broken the hoses.

Thank you for the tip. They seem to be steel braided flex hoses, but I'll see if I can mount and route them in a way that they keep clear of the edges.

[Avalanche325]

Jack the rear of the car WAY up when you install the engine. It gives you a better angle.

[FLPBFoot]

Thanks ILBFoot! Are you referring to the bracket on the transmission needing to be cut or is there something else?

No referring to the actual motor mounts for the motor. Blue Print's Dart blocks had some interference with the motor mounts supplied by FFR. A quick touch with the angle grinder took off enough material to clear and then a bit of black paint and all was good.

Blue Print cut off the mounting foot on the TKO when it was delivered so no need to do any trimming.

[Chopper]

A load leveler is pretty helpful too, but not required.

[Papa]

Depending on how soon you plan to install and start the engine, be sure to fully flush the water out. Mine sat for several months and there was a lot of rust in it.