Few Questions For The new guy

[F500guy]

Thanks for the time to answer any questions I may have as I flesh out a build and determine whether I under take one of these builds. First few questions if you have any input. I am still waiting for someone in the Portland area to let me know of any meetups or possibility of looking at a project. I am interested in a 347 or 427 carb motor.

1) Not to debate FI v. Carb as I know the benefits of the FI, but interested in a carburetor version, would like to know if others that have the carb version are happy, unhappy or went and converted FI because they determined they were unhappy with the carb.

2) Heat shield is important, has anyone constructed a header shield that bolts to the manifold and collector, is there room to make it viable? (like a normal car has a heat shield that is usually grabbed by an exhaust manifold bolt, then covers that area)

3) Push button starts, do they work well on these motors, either carb or FI?

4) Finished builds, happy with limited add on's and more of a old-school build? Would the additional add ons, modern conveniences that you wished you had added?

Thanks, every build thread I read, I see something interesting and very well thought thru. Like racing, it is amazing how folks approach problems and come up with solutions!

Lance

[KDubU]

Just my two cents.

1) Carb and was very happy with it.
2) Sorry no comment on exactly what you are asking but yes I have Drummer’s Mike heat shields on the pipes and they were great.
3) Did not use push button start but many have that should reply.
4) My build was old school, no bloody radio or cup holders :)

[Jim1855]

and mine makes $0.04

1) Carb Yup 65k miles with carbs.
Started down the EFI path, bought a Holley manifold and was going to piece together a system. Decided that for the cost a carb works just fine.

2) Heat shields.
Yes but not sure where or how. Won't go to up the heads. Probably stainless.

3) Push button
Thinking about this. I've broken turn-to-start ignition switches.

4) Add ons
No radio, can't hear it.
No cup holders
No heater. Will have vents, possibly powered. Some form of defroster is nice on damp mornings.
Will have a glove box and other storage areas.
No top but will have a snap in tonneau.

Jim

[skidd]

1)
Carb. On a slightly modified 302. Not one complaint. But, I also have reasonable carb-tuning skills. I happen to like the "old-school" look of a real carb. I actually installed a FiTECH at one time, and took it out a month later. It worked perfectly, but I never liked that it wasn't a carb.

2)
nothing to add, my head shield is a layer inside the cab on the walls

3)
Push Button!! I went with one out of a wrecked S2K. It's just used to "crank" the starter. I have a toggle switch on the dash for (on/off), then push to crank. I love it!!
I also dont' have a key, I use an in-pocket key-fob (dei 2102t) . I just jump in, flick, push and go!! Love it.

4)
I have a pretty old-school look and build. The extras I have, are very stealth.
I have music, that I use sometimes. But, not as much as you would think. It's a total stealth install. Only a small bluetooth "dongle" on the dash to link to my phone. Through a 300W amp at the top-inside of the passenger foot-well. And a pair of 6" speakers behind the center carpet. Out of site.
I also have a totally stealth glove box. It's behind the passenger dash. It actually "swings" down from behind the dash. Not really necessary, but has proven handy for little nick-nacks.
No Cup Holders. Nobody drinks in my car. NOBODY!!
No Heater, I live in Texas. But, I have a small black box mounted at the firewal on top of the tunnel, that has a pair of USB ports, and a single cig-lighter port. The cig-lighter is used with my Motor Cycle Electric Vest. Wtih a ski-jacket, and some light gloves, 30F is totaly manageable.

[F500guy]

As for the push button, was interested in the modern ignition with fob. Sounds like you have ignition on switch and starter activated by push button, like my race car and a 93 pathfinder I wired when the key ign switch failed. Is the DEI 2102t an ignition lock out set up?

[JJK]

not sure about the availability of new DEIvsystems, but as potential alternatives Watson and Digital Guard Dawg sell a similar RFID ignition enablers

[RJD]

I set mine up to be a cruiser. With that in mind, my favorite and most useful add-ons were:

- Cup holders
- USB ports - great for plugging in the iphone and GPS for cruises
- Seat heaters
- Center console with sunglass niche
- Glove box
- Trunk cubby with lockable access

I did install a bluetooth stereo and 4 speakers which I use infrequently

[Otee453]

1) I went with Holley Sniper, but I think carbs can be reliable and perform well.
2) I put a 351w in my MK4. No engine compartment heat shield. I used the spray heat shielding and sound control stuff inside the foot box. Not heat AT ALL against the foot box wall and my header is very close to the foot box. In my opinion, there is absolutely no reason to concoct some heat shield in the engine compartment
3)I didn’t do a push button start, but I did add a toggle switch with a safety cover. I was kinda going for a slight aviation look. It works fine, but I find myself using the key to start it, so it looks cool but rarely gets used
4) I added a stereo. It’s a small Bluetooth receiver from Infinity (INF-BC4). I used a quality 150 watt mini amplifier and dual 6x9 speakers in the rear wall between the seats. I love it. It’s LOUD and can be heard very well over the exhaust. Not very healthy for my ears though I’m sure.
I did not do cup holders. I don’t miss them or feel I need them. For storage and things like jackets and such, I have Herbs door panels with pockets. That holds my phone and wallet. Other items can be thrown behind the seats on the floor (I used Kirkey vintage low backs, so I have a nice little space behind both seats)
I was going to do some footbox vents. I ended up not doing them. Now that the car is done and I driven it plenty this summer, I dont feel the vents are necessary.
There really isn’t anything I feel I should have done that I didn’t.

[skidd]

As for the push button, was interested in the modern ignition with fob. Sounds like you have ignition on switch and starter activated by push button, like my race car and a 93 pathfinder I wired when the key ign switch failed. Is the DEI 2102t an ignition lock out set up?

Pretty much yeah.. like a "race car" . Toggle and Button. Old-Ish school.
The DEI 2102T I"m using is a RFID "Starter Kill". Pretty basic, but perfectly functional for my needs. It does have one design flaw though, a dumb one too. If you disconnect the battery, and re-connect it. It enables the starter. So, I actually just built a simple "latching" relay module that sits between the DEI and my starter. Prevents the battery-disconnect trick from working.
Technically, the car "could" be jump-started and off a thief would go! So for an added level of safety at times, I put a battery cut-off within easy reach. You can see the red push-start, and the red cut-off knob below it. I just grab the cut-off and toss it in my pocket if I'm worried.
There is also a "very-hidden-and-nearly-impossible-to-reach" tiny-push-button that can override the FOB if it's battery dies.
Lastly.. if I REALLY wanna make it hard(er) to take, my roll-over switch is in my trunk, and I've glued a small nob to the top of it so I an "pull-it-up". Thus also disabling the fuel pump.

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/albums/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20190719_170639.jpg

[edwardb]

My thoughts FWIW:

1. I’ve done two carb builds. Once tuned properly, they ran great. No complaints. Builds since then have been EFI. They start easier, run better, stay tuned, and are more economical. I don’t plan to do any more carb builds. But the key point IMO is both require tuning. To really tune a carb properly involves using a wideband air/fuel meter and then swapping various tuning parts (jets, pumps, etc.) required during the process. I bought what was necessary and learned to do it myself because there are fewer and fewer places you can go that have the expertise. Unlike EFI where there are multiple tuners and plenty of options.

2. Heat mitigation is one of the most over-thought subjects for new builders IMO. Many seem to have their favorite "I burned my feet while riding in a Cobra" story. Dozens of threads on here from new builders with new and creative ways to build shields, panels, standoffs, you name it. But the simple fact is that properly insulated on the inside walls of the cockpit with any of multiple available products plus carpet plus having zero air infiltration from the engine compartment (widely overlooked) and you won’t have heat issues. I say this based on the experience of multiple builds. Done properly, you can ride all day on hot days (did that just today in our Coupe) and not get any sense of heat from the engine compartment. Perhaps my only exception to the above statement might be if you install catalytic converters. Those do in fact generate a ton of heat and additional engine side shielding would perhaps be appropriate. Much like OE’s shield cats. But I don’t have any experience with them on these builds so can’t offer any additional comments.

3. Lots of options for push button starts. I’ve got the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-I system in my Coupe. Works perfectly. There’s nothing about that particular unit that’s specific to any engine. It simply replaces the ignition switch using the same wires. Couple of added wires (like one to the brake light switch) but it’s very straightforward. I suspect most others are similar. But that’s the only one I have experience with.

4. I’ve kept my builds relatively traditional. Modern touches added (like the pushbutton start) I’ve tried to keep low key. Not much to say other than read through build threads, see what others have done, and decide what works for you. But don’t feel like you have to have all the answers before you start. Over the duration of the build you’ll add and subtract things as you go. Trust me.

Good luck.

[CaptB]

Digital Dawg on the push button.

[nucjd19]

My turn to chime in :)
1. I have the BPE 347 Carb engine. I was planning on adjusting the carb but blue print had that sucker dialed in when I got it. Fires right up to idle and the 600cfm Holley carb is perfect for that size engine. Got about 1000 miles on it and will pull the plugs and read them soon to see if I need to do anything. It has been bullet proof. Very happy. Also happy with the power to weight ratio.
2. Agree with edwardb. Used the Breeze Koolmat insulation inside the cockpit and have zero issues with heat in the foot box. When I was driving in gelcoat before paint i had not installed the foam sealing the engine bay from the cockpit between the body; and pulling away from a stop light felt like I was opening an oven LOL! Once The foam was installed after paint that all went away.
3. Did not install a push button ignition but the supplied wiring harness is awesome and lots of folks have done it.
4. Mine is a mesh between vintage and contemporary. Carbon Fiber Dash from FFR, USB ports under the dash, cup holders, Carbon Fiber transmission cover, and flipped the shifter to be more forward. Did not install the cubby, seat heat warmers, heater, or stereo. But I live in Alabama and being cold is not an issue. I use AirPods that have noise cancellation when I drive for music and ear protection. More important in my opinion are other modifications. I did the NRG steering wheel quick release, Adjustable seats, FFMetal drop battery mod, and the RT drop trunk mod. In Hindsight I would have went with IRS instead of the 3 link, but with that being said I probably could not tell much of a difference driving either unless they were side by side. I would have also installed the RT turn signal too but instead went with a momentary switch from Ron Francis which works fine but the RT solution is so slick.

[F500guy]

Thanks, all the info really helps the decision process, hopefully by the fall I will have a path to follow!

[Avalanche325]

I have a 500hp carbureted 347. QF 750 no choke. (carb sizing is really HP related, not CI) I love it. It being a little snotty when cold, etc is part of the Cobra experience to me. Love it.

Heat insulation inside the footwell is all you need.

Push button start. It's just a switch. It will work fine. I have the standard key start.

Add-ons:
Power steering. Especially if you want to autocross.
I have the following all hidden on an under dash panel - Garage door opener, radar detector controls and connector, power / USB ports, heated seat controls, emergency flashers, trip odometer reset, O2 sensor power. My dash is very simple and clean with a full glove box.
Cup holders.
Heater and heated seats - I live in Florida and they get used.
DIY drop trunk. You REALLY want this.

[john42]

My car started life as a ridiculously bare bones straight up race car. When converted to be a legal street drivable car:

- cup holders! Gotta have that morning cup of jo when heading to the local Cobra gathering
- heater - I'm in New England and this greatly increases the number of months I can comfortably drive the car.
- heat shielding. It had NONE to start with. Doing this on a completed car has been a royal PIA but the heat coming into the foot box on hot summer days was unbearable. I'm very bummed it wasn't done before carpet installation. I've been cobbling together shielding around the outside and it's been..... painful. It's improved matters but my feet are still quite warm. At least it isn't a hot toaster oven any longer.

[runamuk]

1. I decided on fuel injection using FAST EZ-EFI 2.0
2. I made some heat shields using 1/4" thick aluminum and I'm attaching them to the footbox using spacers to give a good airgap in between the header and the footbox.
3. Digital Gaurd Dawg: https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/auto/

[ggunter]

I started out with a carbed 347 then went to the Holley Sniper. It has some good points and bad points. Good points are cold starting, turn the key and go. Bad points are within 400 miles the oxygen sensor crapped out. Also the IAC just decides when it wants to to run the RPM up to almost 2000 when it feels like it. Usually when your in a parking lot just creeping along and people look at you like some kind of idiot making a bunch of noise. I just changed the motor for more cubic inches and put the Sniper back on the new motor. The jury is still out on the Sniper. I have a new 750 Holley for the new motor if the Sniper doesn't act right.

[emac]

I have a 351W with a holley. Built in 2012. Replaced one accelerator pump diaphram early on. I bought an extra one to guarantee that it would never go bad again :). It hasnt. Really no issues with the carb. I use ethanol free fuel only. I had the headers ceramic coated and used some self adhesive heat shield around the footboxes. I have vents in the cabin but they really dont help. I just dont drive it if its 100 degrees out.