Re-wire headlights to toggle

[BeePea]

Has anyone performed the re-wire of the headlight pull switch to a toggle switch? My thought was a 3 way, with center being off, down = low and up = high. I have the vintage gauges, so no dimming.

Thanks!

Blake

[65 Cobra Dude]

Lucas makes a headlight toggle switch that works perfectly. Down is off, middle is parking lights and up is headlights. I’ve wired a couple of them and it’s not difficult.

Henry

[BeePea]

Lucas makes a headlight toggle switch that works perfectly. Down is off, middle is parking lights and up is headlights. I’ve wired a couple of them and it’s not difficult.

Henry

Anything out there I can follow to make sure I don't mess it up

[JohnK]

Henry's solution will work, but be aware that with that setup you'd still need a separate high/low switch. If you're planning to install the Russ Thompson turn signal system, you could use the momentary button on the end of the stalk as the high/low switch.

[BeePea]

Henry's solution will work, but be aware that with that setup you'd still need a separate high/low switch. If you're planning to install the Russ Thompson turn signal system, you could use the momentary button on the end of the stalk as the high/low switch.

I'm fine with a separate high/low switch.

[skidd]

I used a simple
Carling off/on/on+on toggle.
Works perfect.
Down is off. Middle is running. Up is running + headlights
Let me try and dig up the url

[skidd]

they're called progressive toggle switches.
This isn't the exact one I bought. But it's the same configuration.

https://www.marshallshardware.com/products/product.aspx?pid=2091-2161-2166-36302

[CraigS]

Just be sure there isn't a quick all lights off in between positions. I know it would just be a fraction of a second but I could see it being a problem for safety inspection if your state requires one.

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you aren't using the toggle to activate relays be sure that the switch can handle the amperage load. The FFR/Ron Francis/GM Delco style push-pull switch can carry the load, features an internal self resetting circuit breaker and doesn't require relays.

Jeff

[JohnK]

Thanks for mentioning that Jeff - it had just popped into my head and was coming here to post it... the GM style headlight switch does include a self-resetting circuit breaker. If you swap it out for a toggle you'll need to add a fuse or circuit breaker in that circuit, otherwise it will be unprotected.

[BeePea]

Seems simple enough, and I do have a progressive switch I can use. What size fuse would I use? I assumed I might need to leverage a relay or something, but maybe I don't? I have the Ididit relay but I don't think I actually need it unless I want to do flash to pass.

[BrewCityCobra]

I actually just completed this project over the past few weeks. If you check out my build thread I have schematics and photos of all of the elements I used to make it work (and actually am in the process or preparing my next entry to wrap up a few more details such as specific parts used and the like). Just ran the battery tests last weekend and everything worked fine (and I think looks much better).

Generally speaking, you will need to incorporate relays, circuit breakers, and the right style of switches to make it work. Not sure if you are planning on going with Lucas style switches (like I did) which makes things a bit more difficult based on the limited styles of switches Lucas produces or a more modern look where the world is your oyster.

Either way, feel free to message if you have any specific questions or need my anything dug into a bit deeper. Hopefully I'll have that post up in the next few days which will lay out the hardware specifics (e.g., switch model numbers, fuse sizes, wire sizes, and the like).

[BeePea]

I actually just completed this project over the past few weeks. If you check out my build thread I have schematics and photos of all of the elements I used to make it work (and actually am in the process or preparing my next entry to wrap up a few more details such as specific parts used and the like). Just ran the battery tests last weekend and everything worked fine (and I think looks much better).

Generally speaking, you will need to incorporate relays, circuit breakers, and the right style of switches to make it work. Not sure if you are planning on going with Lucas style switches (like I did) which makes things a bit more difficult based on the limited styles of switches Lucas produces or a more modern look where the world is your oyster.

Either way, feel free to message if you have any specific questions or need my anything dug into a bit deeper. Hopefully I'll have that post up in the next few days which will lay out the hardware specifics (e.g., switch model numbers, fuse sizes, wire sizes, and the like).

Excellent, thank you!