How much assembly with body on?

[GT_Rich]

My kit should (could?) arrive next week. If possible, I would like to keep the body in place until winter so that I have additional space to service the two cars my wife and I race. So, thinking through alternative build steps to get where I need to be while also avoiding body on/off as much as possible.

Here's my situation - I ordered my kit without shocks and I have a good relationship with UMI Performance and Viking Shocks. I would like to get suspension installed and setup with adjustable length links (threaded tubes with LH/RH rod ends) to determine final ride height and shock length at ride height prior to ordering custom shocks. I'll need the body on for that. Shocks will be a 1-2 month lead time so I want to get this sorted out early.

Can the following occur before the body is ever removed?
-install front and rear suspension (3 link rear)
-install fuel tank and fuel system
-install aluminum firewall and footbox panels
-install engine/trans

And, would it be possible to fit the body at this point?

I have an aggressive goal of racing the car next spring, so trying to do it all in about 6-8 months. I've built many cars, but not a FFR.

Thanks!
Rich

[David Williamson]

You can do the suspension, brakes and fuel systems but you need to take the body off to fit the aluminum and you need to fit the aluminum panels with the bulb seal before fitting the body. But it is easier to do brake, fuel lines and wiring with the body off working from the top rather than under the car.
David W

[Alex_V]

Just leave the shell outside, it's fiberglass and nothing will happen to it. Mine sat outside, covered with a tarp, for two years. Same as new after a pressure wash.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You can do it (I know someone who is working that way) but you’re just making life more difficult by doing so. As David said you can’t do body fitting until all of the aluminum is assembled in the proper position and has bulb seal. Put it outside like Alex suggested.

Jeff

[Jim1855]

I hang mine from the garage ceiling. Found pulleys in the plant grower's markets, I think these were recommended by a forum member. But I also cut the body under the doors, so I have half over each of a 2-stall garage.
Jim

[edwardb]

X3 (or whatever) leaving the body on will make things much harder. FWIW, the nose (hood, cowl...) can stand on it's back (pointing up) and doesn't take much space. The main part of the body doesn't take much space once separated from the nose. It might take less space than you think. Including the frame with the body off. But having said that, not quite following your logic. (1) The body is a very small percentage of the weight of the car. So ride height with or without the body is not going to be very different. (2) You don't mention the drivetrain, which is the main weight contributor. (3) Ride height is measured off the chassis, not the body. With the front and rear suspension mounted, along with the wheels/tires, you could jack it to ride height and get a decent measurement for your shocks. Mine is at 3-1/4 inches front, 3-3/4 inches rear. Pretty low. But it's not been a problem. Higher and the tires/wheels don't look right in the openings. IMO.

[GT_Rich]

I appreciate all the replies. In reply mostly to @edwardb , the engine/trans install is the last bullet on my list (you must have missed it). I figured if I could install the aluminum panels around the engine I would be able to install engine and leave it in place.

I wanted the body in place because for setting ride height I believe (just like you alluded to) that it's.a combination of ride height from ground as well as wheel/tire fitment and spacing to the body. Can't make a final decision without the body on.

This will be a race only build and I will likely pick a shock length from the lower mounting hole to avoid the hassle of extended length upper shock mounting hardware. So, between that and a ride height that is a bit of personal preference in appearance, I want to make these determinations with the body on.

Final point - weight doesn't matter for selecting ride height. I'm using an adjustable length setup tube, so there's no spring to compress.

Also, and I forgot to mention this, I'm using drop motor mounts so I would like to fit headers and side pipes to determine if I can make the FFR pieces work or determine if I go custom. Again, need body on.

So there's no way to install footbox and firewall aluminum until the body is pulled?

I have a lift, so working under the car is sometimes preferred

[edwardb]

I appreciate all the replies. In reply mostly to @edwardb , the engine/trans install is the last bullet on my list (you must have missed it). I figured if I could install the aluminum panels around the engine I would be able to install engine and leave it in place.

I wanted the body in place because for setting ride height I believe (just like you alluded to) that it's.a combination of ride height from ground as well as wheel/tire fitment and spacing to the body. Can't make a final decision without the body on.

This will be a race only build and I will likely pick a shock length from the lower mounting hole to avoid the hassle of extended length upper shock mounting hardware. So, between that and a ride height that is a bit of personal preference in appearance, I want to make these determinations with the body on.

Final point - weight doesn't matter for selecting ride height. I'm using an adjustable length setup tube, so there's no spring to compress.

Also, and I forgot to mention this, I'm using drop motor mounts so I would like to fit headers and side pipes to determine if I can make the FFR pieces work or determine if I go custom. Again, need body on.

So there's no way to install footbox and firewall aluminum until the body is pulled?

I have a lift, so working under the car is sometimes preferred

Sorry, totally spaced out on that one. My bad. Of course you listed the engine/trans, and somehow I totally missed it. So let me re-phrase my answer. You have no choice but to get the front hood out of the way. That's half the body you have to find a place for somehow. With that out of the way, wide open for the front suspension and the majority of the front sheet metal. The rear part of the body overhangs the firewall so it's going to be in the way of some of the footbox sheet metal. Plus, as already stated in another post, the bulb seal needs to be installed to get the right body height. That includes, as a minimum, the firewall and the rear hatch sides. I would add that panels that come shipped from the factory are in "shipping locations" and may or may not be exact once you start finalizing everything. They'll be close. But sometimes not exact. The rear suspension, tank, etc. could be done with the main body on. And a lift certainly helps. But still going to be more work than without the body. Finally, to really get the exact picture you seem to be looking for, the front nose needs to be fitted and installed. And I would never recommend doing that until the body is in its exact final position. Which in turn means the aluminum should all be in the final location, bulb seal, etc. For my build, I found fitting the body to be the biggest single challenge of the coupe build. And I'm not the only one that's said that. Of course anything's possible and it's your build. But I'd personally be very cautious about getting things too much out of order.

I'll stick to the other part of my answer, that the ride height will mainly be based on the chassis distance to the ground. Even if you're doing an ultra low race ride height. Unless you're doing something way off the kit recommended wheel/tire sizes, how they fit into the wheel wells will be fine. There's plenty of clearance.

You asked how much can be done with the body on. That's my response (corrected...) and similar to what others have said. Which also means not much experience doing it as you describe. Good luck whatever you decide and with your build.

[GT_Rich]

Hi Paul,
I appreciate the revised response. I think I have a plan, but it will also obviously depend on back ordered parts. TBD on those.