Car dies at stop sign2

[ThickCobra]

Per OP's request:

My issue is similar to a recent post but with different symptoms. Several weeks back my car died at a stop sign and I had to have it towed home. After waiting a bit it restarted. I have plenty of battery and plenty of cranking power. However, if I let the car idle at home within 5 to 8 minutes it will die on its own and will not restart. If I let it sit for a bit it will start right up again.

I immediately took the easy route and purchased a new MSD distributor cap, rotor cap and MSD 8222 coil. I have done a lot of electrical testing so I'll describe where I'm at. I attached a spark tester between the spark plug and the distributor and then again between the distributor and the coil. As I said if the car sits a little bit it starts right up. But when it dies, and I attempt to restart the car, I have no spark between any of those points. I have also gone as far as to test the continuity between the orange coil wire at the coil and where it connects to the ignition switch under the dash. I have continuity without any resistance.

For those not familiar with my setup I have a 351 Windsor with a quick fuel 780 CFM carburetor, MSD distributor and coil and mechanical fuel pump. I have ruled out any potential fuel issue. I've been checking various threads but have found none based on the testing I've done to help me out. And I thought I would try as much testing as I could before I reached out to the forum and possibly purchase a new ignition switch. The cobra is only 5 years old. Any help would be appreciated.

[Papa]

Have you tried running a different hot wire to the coil?

[k-roy]

I know you said it wasn't the fuel pump, carburetor, or fuel, but have you checked the fuel filter? I had a gas tank rust out on one of my vehicles and it would plug the filter. Would drive for a short time, then it would just die (including driving down the freeway). If I let it sit, I then could start it up 5-10 minutes later. Initially I thought it was a vapor lock, re routed the gas line away from any exhaust, but to no avail. Took me a long time to figure it was a blocked fuel filter.

If the lines are not PFTE, might get breakdown after 5 years causing plugging.

[ThickCobra]

First, a reply to Papa's comment. If my understanding or, misunderstanding of how wiring works please bear with me. As I understand it, the orange coil wire goes from the coil to the fuse block. Then a wire goes from the fuse block to the ignition switch. Which one of those wires are you suggesting I replace. As you know, the fuse block is nearly impossible to get to and I would have to remove it to replace the wire on the back side of it. That's why I believe the continuity test showing no resistance indicates that from the coil to the ignition switch there's no interference.

If you think I should still try it let me know. Or are you merely suggesting trying another coil wire?

[ThickCobra]

One of the many things I did was to purchase a new fuel filter. I also tested the mechanical fuel pump and that is pumping fuel just fine. And to go over the top, I rebuilt the entire carburetor. So it is pretty clear that when the car is not working properly there is no spark evident from the coil to the distributor.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I don’t recall Jay; are you running an MSD box? If so…

Jeff

[ThickCobra]

I don’t recall Jay; are you running an MSD box? If so…

Jeff

Jeff,

Great hearing from you. I tried to reach out to you to catch up a little while back but your phone message log was full. Hope things are going well. I have an MSD Billet aluminum ready to run distributor. I'm sure you're familiar with these as there is no separate box and the circuit board is in cased in the unit. But as I mentioned I did a spark test. First I connected my spark tester between the spark plug and the distributor. When I crank and it won't start there's no spark, when the car is running there is a spark.

Then I thought, let's test the distributor to see if a spark was being sent to that. And again, when the car only cranks over there is no spark coming from the coil which is brand new. Then I ran a continuity test from the orange wire at the coil all the way to the ignition switch and there is zero resistance. I'm just spitballing here but the only thing I haven't replaced in this whole thing is the ignition switch. (The distributor is only 3 years new).

[Papa]

First, a reply to Papa's comment. If my understanding or, misunderstanding of how wiring works please bear with me. As I understand it, the orange coil wire goes from the coil to the fuse block. Then a wire goes from the fuse block to the ignition switch. Which one of those wires are you suggesting I replace. As you know, the fuse block is nearly impossible to get to and I would have to remove it to replace the wire on the back side of it. That's why I believe the continuity test showing no resistance indicates that from the coil to the ignition switch there's no interference.

If you think I should still try it let me know. Or are you merely suggesting trying another coil wire?

What I'm suggesting is to simply run a different hot wire to the coil to see if that resolves it. If it does, then there may be an issue in the circuit, such as the ignition switch or any relay installed, etc. I suggest jumping a fused wire to the coil from the battery to see if that eliminates the problem.

Dave

[Norm B]

Power runs from the fuse block to the ignition switch and then to the coil. With the ignition switch on you should always have system voltage (12 volts on the battery and around 14 when the engine is running) at the coil. Check your voltage at the coil when the engine does its automatic shutdown.

HTH

Norm

[ThickCobra]

Power runs from the fuse block to the ignition switch and then to the coil. With the ignition switch on you should always have system voltage (12 volts on the battery and around 14 when the engine is running) at the coil. Check your voltage at the coil when the engine does its automatic shutdown.

HTH

Norm

Will do. Thanks

[ThickCobra]

I will check this also.

[Norm B]

The FFR ignition switch has been known to fail and cause this exact issue. I have replaced mine with one out of a 69 Mustang.

Norm

[MikeHolt]

It seems I recall people mentioning issues with the MSD boxes and heat. Where is yours located?

[ThickCobra]

I have an MSD Ready to Run distributor. There is no separate box.

[Rdone585]

ThickCobra, you're only about 1 hour south of me. If you haven't figured it out by next Saturday, maybe I can come down and try to lend a hand at troubleshooting. IF you have it's a nice time of year for a drive, weather permitting. It would also be good to meet another Cobr* guy in our area.

[ThickCobra]

Thanks, I'll let you know.

[rthomas98]

Where do you have your coil mounted? This sounds like the coil is getting overheated. It would give the symptoms that you are experiencing.

[ThickCobra]

The blaster coil 8202 is required to be mounted vertically. Some people don't know that as they try to hide the coil around the side or the back of the engine. For years now, it's been mounted in the front of the engine getting a lot of airflow. And, I decided to replace it with the Blaster coil 8222 which can be mounted in any direction. But, it still gets plenty of air flow. In fact the engine merely gets warm by the time it decides to shut down.

Many things to try today. I also ordered a new ignition switch today.

[Jhinkemeyer]

Sure sounds like that switch could be suspect. As Norm described check the coil for +12V when it's acting up, I'll bet you find it is not there.....but that would seem like the best next step in troubleshooting at least.

If you're comfortable, Papa's suggesting to run a temporary fused wire direct from battery to the coil (kind of like hot wiring your own car) would net good info to help the troubleshooting here.

[Rdone585]

I've had trouble with the connections to the ignition switch coming loose. After years of vibration the screws loosened just enough so the contact wasn't secure. It would work sometimes but not always. I discovered this when I reached behind the dash and one of the wires to the switch easily rotated on the screw. Not saying this is you're issue but it's an easy check to verify they are tight if you haven't already.

[ThickCobra]

Here is an update to my current issue. So far, nothing is working to resolve my electrical problem (challenge). However, I now have a new more expensive coil, fuel filter, rebuilt carburetor, rotor and distributor cap and a new ignition switch.

I did, as suggested, run a fused wire from the coil directly to the battery, both when it was running and when it would not restart. No difference.

We're having great weather and its discouraging having the car sit.

[ThickCobra]

Let me pose this question to the group. I have inserted a spark tester between the 8222 coil and my MSD Ready to Run distributer. The tester is essentially a light that represents the spark. When the engine runs this light is consistant and bright. However, when the engine will not restart no spark is evident. Here is my question. If the distributor is faulty, could it not accept the spark sent by the coil and display as if the coil is not sending a spark?

[Papa]

So, no power direct from the battery to the coil? Have you tested the battery and checked all grounds? How many amps are showing on the test? You could get 12v and have almost no amps. Loose or corroded battery connector? How is the battery wired from the positive post? Where are you feeding power to the fuse panel and ignition? Have you checked the clutch safety switch? Trouble shooting electrical sometimes requires tracing the entire circuit from the battery to the powered device, testing for proper voltage at each leg in the circuit.

[Jhinkemeyer]

Let me pose this question to the group. I have inserted a spark tester between the 8222 coil and my MSD Ready to Run distributer. The tester is essentially a light that represents the spark. When the engine runs this light is consistant and bright. However, when the engine will not restart no spark is evident. Here is my question. If the distributor is faulty, could it not accept the spark sent by the coil and display as if the coil is not sending a spark?

Sure, the distributor is part of the circuit to get that voltage from the coil to ground (ideally from the center terminal in the cap, across the rotor, back up through the appropriate terminal, through the plug wire, through the plug and then jumping the gap from the spark plug center electrode to the ground electrode. Since it doesn't run at all no need to trouble shoot anything past the distributor cap though. So cap, rotor? Which you already replaced it sounds like.

Also worth noting is giving the coil +12V is only half the equation. For it to induce the high voltage needed the ground side of the primary circuit is manipulated. In your case it should be by the MSD box. It should be completing and breaking (opening and closing) the ground circuit of the coil as needed to cause the coil to spark.

I think you already replaced the MSD unit. Is the black wire on the (-) terminal of the coil from the nice new MSD box? It's the only wire on that terminal right? If it is shorting (grounding) out it could defeat the switching of the MSD box never allowing the primary side of the coil's magnetic field to collapse.

Also what is the LED on the MSD box doing during these events?

170617

[ThickCobra]

Thanks guys, I have a lot of testing ahead of me. I will go thru your suggestions.

I should clarify:
The battery to coil fusible wire does produce voltage. Just doesn't make any difference.
No separate MSD box, circuitry housed within the distributor.

Thanks

[svassh]

I had a similar issue earlier this year. Went thru the same replacement sequence as you. Car would sometimes crank, fire and die immediately. Other times it would fire right up and go for 30 plus min before dieing. This was on my 66 Corvette but running a wire direct from battery pos to coil pos always worked. I got to where I carried a wire with alligator clips in the car to jump that everytime I took the car out. Took the alternator out and tested it too. Turned out to be my voltage regulator.

Good luck issues like this are beyond frustrating.

[rich grsc]

If you have 12v to the coil, but it doesn't fire, and you know it's good, then the distributor is at fault.

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you have 12v to the coil, but it doesn't fire, and you know it's good, then the distributor is at fault.

I concur.

Jeff

[ThickCobra]

Luv the line from DiCaprio in the movie "Catch Me If You Can". Do you concur doctor?

Now, back to solving this problem.

[Norm B]

If it doesn't work when 12 volts is supplied directly to the coil then, either the new coil is bad or there is a problem on the distributor/ignition box side. The distributor, through the ignition box, provides an intermittent ground signal that fires the coil. If any of these components do not have a good ground then you won't get spark. Check your engine ground and the wiring to your ignition box. Make sure these connections are solid.
I have a test unit that connects to both terminals of the coil that would tell you if the ground signal is present. It was designed for points ignition systems and, like me a few others here on the forum, really doesn't like ignition boxes much. You could try hooking a test light to the coil terminals when you're having the issue, and have some crank the engine. The light should flash quickly.

HTH

Norm

[ThickCobra]

About 3 years ago, I replaced my original distributor with an MSD ready to run distributor that is self-contained. I replace my original with this new distributor at the recommendation of a local speed shop. They installed it and they wired it. There is no outside MSD box to deal with.

That said the wiring of the new distributor is as follows: there's a black wire from the distributor that goes to ground, a red wire from the distributor that goes to the positive side of the coil, an orange wire from the distributor goes to the negative post on the coil. There is also another wire on the positive side of the coil that comes from the fuse block and this wire is orange labeled Orange EFI/coil. All Ron Francis wiring included in my 2015 kit. There is also a gray wire from the distributor it allows you to set a rev limit for the car.

Also, at this stage I have checked all possible grounds and they're all very secure and clean.

To refresh, the car will start almost every time when the engine is cold. But once it stops or if I turned it off immediately and try to restart it it will not restart. If I wait maybe 5 to 10 minutes and try it again it may start up. So, it has plenty of cranking power and will in fact run. But, I don't trust driving it out of the neighborhood with a chance it will die.

[ThickCobra]

Also,

I may just bite the bullet and remove and send the distributor to MSD.. apparently they have a Repair Department that will repair it and send it back for a cost based on how much time they spend on it or parts needed. I'm thinking of going this route.

[Papa]

I'm thinking a heat soak issue based on your symptoms. If you are certain the distributor is getting power from the coil when the issue exists, I agree with others that it is likely the distributor. Do you have a way to drop in a different one (borrowed perhaps) to see if that fixes it before dumping more money into chasing the problem? It isn't that uncommon to have a new coil be bad out of the box, so be 100% sure it is firing to the distributor before swapping that out.

[ThickCobra]

Papa, very good point and I will look into that. Thanks Jay

[Papa]

Here is a pretty good video I came across to show how to test the coil using an Ohm meter and a test light as well as a professional diagnostic tool, which obviously most of us don't have access to.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDKj19Hnhd0

[rich grsc]

I reread this and see you have an MSD 8222 coil? Get rid of any MSD coils, go buy a coil for a 1993 Mustang 5.0 engine. Get a Ford one, it's an open 'iron core' coil, NOT an oil filled one. I went through 3 MSD coils in 8000 miles, one only last a few hundred miles. The one on my car now is an original 1993 Ford coil, from the first donor built I did. It's 29 yrs old

[ThickCobra]

It's all come down to a faulty distributor. I don't tend to replace faulty components with replacements of the same component. In this case I don't think I'm going to replace the MSD ready to run distributor with another one. I am looking into Pertronics and Mallory. And both of those would have ready to run technology and not require a separate ignition box. Any thoughts on these two and or ignition boxes would be appreciated. Again I've got the 351 small block Ford engine.

Thanks for all the previous advice.

[rustyrim]

you are making a good choice, since Holley bought MSD almost all of their electronics are made in China. I understand their custom parts are still made here. Pertronix are good but are pricey now.

[JNC]

MSD bought Mallory about ten years ago.

Since you're running a carb, why not match it with a dual point distributor? ;)

[ThickCobra]

New Pertronix distributor arriving tomorrow, friday. I'll keep you all posted.

[frankb]

ThickCobra: I ran a Pertronix Flamethrower distributor with the Ignitor III module and had no issues from day one. You made a good choice.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jay,
It will be interesting to see if this has any effect on your low speed driveability issues.

Jeff

[ThickCobra]

Yes, I am confident I made the right choice. My son and I installed the new distributor and coil today and all went well. A little hiccup with the new distributor not going in smoothly as it would not line up with the mark I placed on the intake manifold. A bit weird that the Pertronix rotor would install a little before or a little after my mark. I went with a little after and will adjust thru resetting the timing.

Tomorrow we assemble new plug wires and plan to fire it up.

[Rdone585]

A bit weird that the Pertronix rotor would install a little before or a little after my mark. I went with a little after and will adjust thru resetting the timing.
Most likely because the gear was installed with slightly different alignment with the rotor. Resetting the timing to the original setting will assure you're running properly.

[ThickCobra]

Cut and installed new Pertronix plug wires after installing a new Pertronix distributor and Flame Thrower III coil. Car did not fire up immediately which led me to test voltage to the coil and to spark plugs. No spark. I thought I couldn't hurt to check the 15 amp fuse in the Ron Francis fuse block. Discovered fuse had popped. Replaced the fuse and the Car started right up. But after I did some timing adjustment, the car died. Checked the fuse again and it also had popped.

Apparently I have a new problem. Not certain how to track this one down. And, I'm not certain I have fixed the initial problem.

[RRussellTx]

Cut and installed new Pertronix plug wires after installing a new Pertronix distributor and Flame Thrower III coil. Car did not fire up immediately which led me to test voltage to the coil and to spark plugs. No spark. I thought I couldn't hurt to check the 15 amp fuse in the Ron Francis fuse block. Discovered fuse had popped. Replaced the fuse and the Car started right up. But after I did some timing adjustment, the car died. Checked the fuse again and it also had popped.

Apparently I have a new problem. Not certain how to track this one down. And, I'm not certain I have fixed the initial problem.

I'm following this closely as I also have a 2015 Forte 427 with the MSD setup. It has also left me walking and I just don't trust it anymore even after replacing the coil. It runs ok now but something is just off with the occasional miss or stumble.

Which version of the Distrubutor/Coil did you go with? (so many choices on the pertronix site)
I want to look at the installation instructions to see the fuse requirements.
Based on a generic search, 15 amps may not be enough for that coil.

Thanks,
Richard

[ThickCobra]

Richard, Pertronix has several choices including stock looking cast aluminum distributors and polished Billet aluminum distributors. In my situation I thought I'd go with the stock looking distributor part number D7134610 that also provides me the ability to adjust the rev limit. The rev limit is preset at 5500. That is one of their ready-to-run units which does not require an additional ignition box. They do have distributors that require a separate ignition box. The advisors at pertronix can walk you through several combinations. As I said I went with a stock looking unit and added the flamethrower III ignition coil. Whichever distributor you choose to consider, be sure it's for a SBF 351 windsor.

I had also thought that the 15 amp may not be enough to support this new coil. But before I swap it out for a 20 amp I'd want to be sure that I'm not putting anything else at risk. I will be curious as to what you find.

[RRussellTx]

Richard, Pertronix has several choices including stock looking cast aluminum distributors and polished Billet aluminum distributors. In my situation I thought I'd go with the stock looking distributor part number D7134610 that also provides me the ability to adjust the rev limit. The rev limit is preset at 5500. That is one of their ready-to-run units which does not require an additional ignition box. They do have distributors that require a separate ignition box. The advisors at pertronix can walk you through several combinations. As I said I went with a stock looking unit and added the flamethrower III ignition coil. Whichever distributor you choose to consider, be sure it's for a SBF 351 windsor.

I had also thought that the 15 amp may not be enough to support this new coil. But before I swap it out for a 20 amp I'd want to be sure that I'm not putting anything else at risk. I will be curious as to what you find.

Thanks for the info!
After 20 minutes of searching around, I did not come up with any silver bullets.
I might call Pertronix directly or maybe consider the Pertronix 2001 Ignition Power Relay Kit and not use the fuse to directly drive the coil.

https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-2001-ignition-power-relay-kit
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/6913/4628/files/2001.pdf

Good luck!

[ThickCobra]

I don't believe replacing the ignition fuse block 15 amp fuse with a 20 amp is the route to go. I need to discover what within the system is drawing 15 plus amps and tripping the fuse.

[ThickCobra]

The saga continues. Traced wiring, tested for ohms and continuity and continue to pop 15 amp fuses. I contacted pertronix Tech Center, they were very helpful by the way, and they suggested I test for a grounding problem with the new distributor. If that test turns out to be negative then I'll need to test for a short to ground . That tested negative so I've been testing for a short to ground.

As I said I tested everything that I could. I reached out to pertronix again and they suggested that I try another coil just on the chance that the new one I've got is defective. I located a recently purchased MSD coil and installed it. The fuse no longer pops but now we're back to the car not starting and not delivering a spark. I think I'll seek some professional help for both the car and myself.

Thanks everyone I certainly appreciate the help.

[rich grsc]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-dg470?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgO2XBhCaARIsANrW2X0Bg9S7CLIUvAcGI3Eo d4m35DR7c8xQxXPe1Yc7KJL_dyl26EbCyKQaAtQ6EALw_wcB (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-dg470?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgO2XBhCaARIsANrW2X0Bg9S7CLIUvAcGI3Eo d4m35DR7c8xQxXPe1Yc7KJL_dyl26EbCyKQaAtQ6EALw_wcB)

or just keep doing what you're doing

[ThickCobra]

Can I assume the motorcraft coil you are suggesting , in your link, will be compatible with my new Pertronix ready to run coil? At this point, I may as well give it a try.

[rich grsc]

It's the same coil I use. I have an MSD distributor with an MSD box. No reason I can think of it wouldn't work, but I have never used a Pertronix unit. Read my previous post about MSD coils. The ones I used had a 100% fail rate.

[ThickCobra]

I will review your previous posts on MSD coils.

Here is a bit more info on my testing for those interested. My recently purchased distributor and coil is the Pertronix D7134610 Flame Thrower Stock Look Cast distributor and their Pertronix 44011 Flame Thrower III ignition coil. The distributor with the internal module only pulls 3 amps while the coil only pulls 4 to 5 amps. As both of these seem to be in working order it is pointing more and more toward a short to ground.

[sread]

MSD....my spark disappeared

I'm going to second the recommendation to stick with the Motorcraft coil. When my 86 supercharged Mustang started breaking up under boost I thought it might be time for a new coil. The original was over 25 years old with well over 250 k miles on it. After researching it , I also arrived at the conclusion that the best bet was stick with the OEM. Ran great again.
It really does leave you scratching your head though. A coil is a very simple device. You would think it can't be that hard to build a high quality replacement but the failure rate on the aftermarket pieces (MSD in particular) is ridiculous.
It really does sound like you may have something else going on here though.
Several people have mentioned a bad ignition switch causing similar symptoms . It wouldn't be the first time.

[ThickCobra]

A few weeks back I purchased a new Pollack 31- 180p ignition switch. I tried it before I remove the old distributor and coil with no difference.

I also tried it yesterday, again, with no difference. I'm running out of things to try and running out of things to buy.

[Mastertech5]

Disconnect everything else on that circuit that the fuse feeds except the coil and distributor and try it. If it's ok, plug one item back in at a time until it happens again, you have found the culprit. If it still happens with just the coil and distributor connected then it is something on the circuit to one of those. Testing continuity may not find a circuit that can't carry the amperage required. Pull the fuse and the ground off each item fed on the circuit and test the unpowered side in the fuse box to ground for resistance you should have 0 ohms. It could be a rubbed through wire on that circuit. I used to chase electrical problems in cars for a living. It is sometimes very time consuming and required removing all kinds of stuff to find a short or open.

[J R Jones]

"Pull the fuse and the ground off each item fed on the circuit and test the unpowered side in the fuse box to ground for resistance you should have 0 ohms."

Huh?
jim

[Nigel Allen]

Hi Jay,

The problems you are having sound about as frustrating as it can get. However I have a solution that will sort whether the fault is with your ignition system or, with the wiring in the car. Please see the first attachment where you add in a relay to your ignition system. This can just be temporarily rigged, or if your ignition system draws high current it may be worth leaving it in permanently.
With the relay in place there are now no high currents flowing through your Ron Francis electrical loom. If you continue to blow the ignition fuse on the Ron Francis fuse panel, then the fault is with the wiring or another device on that circuit in the car and has nothing to do with the ignition system you are running. I hope that makes sense.

171245


If you decide to go with the second option that I have drawn up, it will give you 2 indicator lamps that will clearly show which circuit is failing. However I think this is overkill, mainly because you have mentioned that you are blowing fuses which indicates an over current condition, not an open circuit condition. I hope that makes sense.

171246


BTW, apologies for atrocious hand writing.

On a separate but related note you mentioned that the engine fails at traffic lights or when idling for some period of time. This may be heat related. Have you checked out the following:
- Cooling fan. Is it somehow accidentally connected to the ignition circuit?
- Electric choke on the carburetor. Could it be shorting somehow?

At least this relay mod wont hurt the wallet. Also as Rich recommended, start off with a standard coil.


Best of luck.

[ThickCobra]

Fantastic news to report. I solved, what turned out to be a short to ground electrical issue. As usual it was right under my nose the entire time and now I have to believe that it was a faulty MSD distributor, coil and wires. I have to say, that when issues arise I learn a little bit more about these cars but more importantly the mechanics and electrical aspects of my 351 windsor.

I took it out for a few spins today and found that it runs possibly nicer than it ever has. Thanks to everyone for helping me out, certainly much appreciated, and I realize that this is what this community is about. Thanks again to all.

Jay

[steno]

I’m glad you got it all taken care of Jay!!

[ThickCobra]

Thanks Steno, it's a great feeling. And my son and I worked on it together. He has never shown any interest in cars so this was great intro.

Jay

[Nigel Allen]

Good to hear you are on the road with confidence now.

[J R Jones]

That is unusual, a bad distributor, coil and wires and a short to ground.

[ThickCobra]

To clarify, I believe it may have been a short to ground from the beginning. But after all the testing I decided at one point that it may have been the coil, a faulty distributor and possibly the coil wires. I was being sarcastic in saying that I have to believe it was all of those items or I'm going to feel really bad about spending $700 extra that I didn't have to spend chasing a non existant ignition issue.

It was a ground to short all along.

[Avalanche325]

I have been running a Pertronix for 30,000 miles / 7 years. The only issue I have had is that the "football" (mechanical advance) got a little sticky and needed to be cleaned. I live at the beach, so things corrode quickly.

Hopefully that gets you sorted out.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Happy to hear that it's sorted out Jay ! Also that the different distributor may have helped it's low speed manners :cool:

Take care my friend!

Jeff

[ThickCobra]

Avalanche 325, you're living on the beach?. Someone is living the dream.

Jeff, only time will tell whether my low RPM drivability improves. I have a sense it may. Thanks for your feedback , I will call you soon.

Jay

[ThickCobra]

Sent pm